The Quad The quad is a slightly more complicated system for a variable load direction using a cordelette. It’s a great system to use for toprope anchors. It gives near perfect equalization with minimal extension and great strength. To rig the quad, start by doubling a cordelette, then grab the middle with the
A two-bolt anchor rigged with a 7mm cordelette and the quad system.
fist. Tie an overhand knot on each side of the fist, and it is ready to rig. Clip the double-strand loops into the bolts with locking carabiners, then clip only three of the four strands at the master point, leaving one loop outside the master point carabiners. This ensures that if one bolt fails, carabiners remain clipped into a pocket on the master point.
The cordelette is clipped directly to the bolt hangers with locking carabiners, bypassing the cheap hardware store lap links (which are only rated at around 1,000 lbs.).
Anchor Systems
AMGA_i-258_3pp_CS55.indd 157
157
2/27/14 11:57 AM