Absolutely
FOOD & TRAVEL
In the kitchen with...
Marcus
How did you feel when you achieved your first Michelin Star at L’Oranger? Amazed. I was only 25 at the time and the possibility had never really crossed my mind. I was obviously delighted, and it came in the same year Gordon Ramsay won his second star so it was a big deal for us both. Tell us about being a judge on the Great British Menu? I had competed in the show numerous times so it felt natural to move forward into the next role. I was delighted to remain involved with such a popular series that brings the whole of Britain together. Do you enjoy this side of your career? I do, but it’s not my focal point; my restaurants will always be my priority. The upside of being on TV is that it means The Gilbert Scott and Marcus Wareing at The Berkeley get more air time, which is great. The downside is that it takes a lot of time, which means time away from the restaurants. How’s your second restaurant, The Gilbert Scott, shaping up? Michelin star in sight? The Gilbert Scott has been open over a year and is maturing into the restaurant I always wanted it to be. The building has a fabulous history and the team serves up some great dishes. We don’t have any aspirations for Michelin stars. What will be, will be! Any more restaurants in the pipeline? I’d like to have as many as I could manage. The future also depends on the talent around me, and how hard they all want to work in achieving their own goals. Ideally four or five restaurants, but I would only ever cook at one. What sets you apart from other chefs? I’m not sure anything sets me apart from anyone else. I work very hard, as do many others, but I think I was in the right place
Other chefs you admire? I really admire Rene Redzepi for bringing Noma to London during the Olympics. It was a very brave move to open in the middle of the games, yet Noma was full for every service and was the hottest ticket in town. Does your wife cook for you? We are a team at home so we share all the cooking. She does the best lasagne in town! However, I find myself always nagging everyone about working in a tidy kitchen and stock rotation in the fridge! at the right time when I started. I am very focused, which may come across as selfish, so maybe that sets me apart – I was determined to succeed post Gordon Ramsay Holdings. Are you tough or gentle in the kitchen? I am a nightmare, not kind or gentle at all! I do always encourage people though. If everything goes to plan, I am a silent boss. What’s your favourite dish to cook? Fish. It’s what I did first. And to eat? A bacon sandwich. Is Wandsworth big enough for you and Gordon Ramsay? Definitely. I love it. A little bit of greenery but never too far from work. Favourite restaurant in Wandsworth? It can only be Chez Bruce.
Do your children cook? Yes, all of them love baking and Jake, who is almost 11, makes a great bacon sandwich. He shows a real interest and is keen to try all sorts of food. We are regulars at our local Pizza Express and I have promised Jake a trip to Chez Bruce soon. Did the Queen thank you for the custard tart with garibaldi biscuits you made for her 80th birthday? She did thank me and it was, of course, a massive honour to cook for her and to meet her. She continues to work so hard and I have so much respect for that. What’s the best thing about living in Wandsworth? It has the cheapest council tax! No seriously, we are surrounded by beautiful green parks and live on a delightful street. The area is so relaxed and I feel as though I have stepped away from city life, albeit briefly. 65
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