TRAVEL • WANDERLUST
THE ASAHI BEER HALL PHOTO HIROMI IGUCHI
SUSHI SORA
Nihonbashi is also the neighbourhood of the luxurious Mandarin Oriental hotel. Set high above the city, its combination of crisp, contemporary style, renowned spa, innovative restaurants, superb views (you can see Mount Fuji on a clear day) and of course, impeccable service, make it the perfect base from which to discover Tokyo. Tokyo is a nirvana for foodies, and has the world’s greatest number of Michelin star restaurants in any city. Three of them are in the Mandarin Oriental. Even without a Michelin star, Sushi Sora on the hotel's 38th floor cannot be missed. With an eight-seat dining counter fashioned from 350 yearold Japanese cypress and floor-to-ceiling windows with views of Tokyo Skytree
– a twisting spire that draws on ancient building techniques - the setting is sublime. As for the food, the chef’s skilled hands elegantly transform the most simple nigiri or makimono-rolled sushi into a culinary masterpiece. Drinks at the hotel’s Mandarin Bar also offer a flavour of old Tokyo – order the Nihonabshi cocktail, a heady mix of vodka, yuzu and grapefruit juice. With a theme of wood and water, the hotel’s rooms are utterly tranquil, with nature motifs and pale bamboo wood floors. We stayed in a Mandarin Grand room, with views that stretch over Shinjuku towards Mount Fuji in the distance. The spa-like bathrooms, with rainforest showers and stand-alone baths, offer space to relax while the beds are made up with Egyptian cotton linens, resulting in the best sleep we’ve ever had in a hotel. This relaxation theme is continued in the spa, where you can soak sky high in vitality pools with soothing body jets or get a restorative treatment based on the five Japanese elements - green tea, pine, bamboo, rice hulls and plum. Shopping is a highlight of any trip to Tokyo. It’s worth bringing an empty suitcase to fill with hard-to-resist gadgets, trendsetting garments and treasures from craft and design stores. Right by the hotel is the Mitsukoshi, the oldest surviving department store chain in Japan. The grand building of Renaissance architecture has an entrance guarded by a pair of lion statues and stocks everything from luxurious kimonos to weird and wacky culinary delights. In the same area, you’ll find Ozu Washi, which sells traditional Japanese washi paper - you can even have a go at making it yourself at their experience studio - and Tokyu Hands is packed with unique Japanese products that will make beauty and stationery junkies very happy.
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Many associate Japan with its famous cherry blossom season, but its autumn foliage, when the leaves turn, is also spectacular, rivalling even New England’s celebrated range of colours. At the Meiji Jingu Gaien a golden tunnel is created by the area’s 146 ginkgo trees, which extend from Aoyama Dori to the Jingu stadium, while Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden offers a rainbow of autumn foliage panoramas and plenty of fresh air. After snapping the stunning vistas, head to the nearby quiet alleys where you’ll find anachronistic wooden shanty bars, raucous traditional festivals and lantern-lit yakitori (grilled chicken) stands. Even though Tokyo has a population of 13 million-plus, trains run on time, there is no public litter and street crime is near non-existent. Getting around is pretty easy and it’s worth heading to the backstreets of Harajuku - known for its colorful street art, fashion scene and quirky vintage clothing
“Traditional shops including kimono makers and seaweed stores are hidden behind modern buildings” stores and Shibuya, where you can witness its vast crossing and giant video screen, projecting images of the hottest pop stars. Nearby is the Meiji Shrine - the Shinto shrine that is dedicated to the deified spirits of Emperor Meiji and his wife, Empress Shōken, and first-timers to Tokyo should also tick off the Tokyo Imperial Palace primary residence of the Emperor of Japan. To view the city from the water, follow in the footsteps of early Edo business pilgrims and take a 45-minute limousine boat tour, where you can take in the vast number of bridges, skyscrapers and water-side restaurants. To really see Tokyo you need to head up high, where you can look over the city at night. See it blinking like the control panel of a starship, stretching all the way to the horizon, and take in its intoxicating mix of old and new, familiar and unfamiliar.
M A N DA R I N O R I E N TA L Tokyo Rates start from JPY 49,000 per room per night (approx. GBP 330). For more information or to make a booking, call +81 03 3270 8800 or visit www.mandarinoriental.com/tokyo
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