ABSOLUTELY
FOOD & TRAVEL
RESTAURANT REVIEW
Victorian Splendour Take a former Victorian gin palace, add a menu of seasonal British fare and you’ve got The Princess Victoria; Shepherd’s Bush’s latest gastro pub
O
ne of the many things I love about London is that, amidst the ever growing new builds and modern high-rises that sprout up like mushrooms all over the city, there is an abundance of historical buildings that retain a certain charm and elegance. Few come more striking than the imposing former gin palace (and tram stop) The Princess Victoria, a pub which dates back to 1829 and looms over the corners of Uxbridge and Becklow Roads. The gastropub has undergone a plush renovation under new owners, restaurant management and consultancy group Truffle Hunting. The hulking great oak bar, wooden floors and teal coloured walls of the pub lead on to a vast and spectacular dining room, which sits under a lovingly restored stained glass skylight that’s so achingly beautiful you’ll find your eye drawn to it even more than the perfectly presented food in front of you (more on that in a bit). To the side of the bar is a dedicated wine and Cuban cigar shop, which you’re encouraged to take advantage of and puff away in the romantic courtyard herb garden. This air of Victorian decadence and mischief is what makes the Princess Victoria stand out amid London’s growing gastropubs, and the slick restoration has clearly been undertaken with both sensitivity and innovation. It feels like the kind of place that you want to sneak off to for the day – whiling away the hours in a booze and food induced stupor amongst the many wines, cocktails and no-nonsense bar snacks (spiced beer nuts, Charcuterie boards etc). But on to the food. The brains behind Truffle Hunting, including former director at The Fat Duck, Nigel Sutcliffe, understand the high standards of both gastropubs and foodie Londoners. The bar has been set sky high, but the menu, which has been devised by one-time Mandarin Oriental chef Matt Reuther, more than meets it. The food is seasonal British with a twist,
served stylishly on sleek black plates. Luckily (for gluttons such as myself), portions are not gourmet style slithers of food, nor are they whopping great piles. They’re just right. I tried a rich and buttery potted crayfish to start, served with a warm sourdough bread that had a hint of sweet ginger. If you’re a fan of fish then you’ll be bowled over by the range of cured and smoked fish - mouth-watering dishes include pink peppercorn tuna, West Mersea oysters and half pint of prawns. Similarly, carnivores have plenty of choice with steak tartare, ham and parsley terrine, and Tamworth scotch egg; a dish that’s fast becoming a staple of gastropub menus. I chose a simple but delicious wild mushroom risotto with wild rocket and truffle oil for mains. I should add that the wine menu is most impressive, and
suits both customers on a budget and those in the mood to splash the cash City banker style (£990 Le Chambertin, anyone?). Being a wine dunce, I left the vino choices in the very capable hands of our efficient waiter, who expertly and swiftly paired our choice. Unfortunately we couldn’t quite make it to dessert (too much bread; my achilles heel) but I’ve eyed up a few choices in preparation for my next visit. Because I’m certain there’ll be a next time. And another. Come and seek out this Shepherd’s Bush delight for yourself; you’ll probably find me in the corner comatose in that food and gin soaked stupor I mentioned earlier. Well, when in Rome. By Gemma Billington 217 Uxbridge Road, W12 princessvictoria.co.uk
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