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China Mood
Al Bustan Palace, A Ritz-Carlton Hotel, Muscat Tel: 24 799666 Timings: Daily 7pm-11pm Three course meal for two people, including beverages: RO96 Y Magazine reviews anonymously and pays for its meals
Rich Pickings
Penny Fray loses herself in Chinese luxury and luscious bites at Al Bustan Palace
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omeone once said that the rich don’t eat like the rest of us. And according to those fusty old history books, one of the grandest meals ever documented was the Manchu Han Imperial Feast. Organised to impress Chinese people with the largesse of his new Qing dynasty, the Kangxi emperor served a staggering 320 decadent dishes over three days. The hedonistic banquets showcased platters of bear claw, camel hump, ape lips and other delicious sounding delicacies. So naturally, when asked to review somewhere suitably lavish, I opted for China Mood at Al Bustan Palace. But, thankfully, there were no bits of monkey brain on offer. If you’re not in the know, let me tell you this five-star hotel is seriously luxe and its signature restaurant rightfully claims its position as one of the region’s top Asian eateries. Indeed, it’s the next best thing to chowing down in China itself. But compared with the marbled magnificence of the 38-metre-high domed atrium lobby, China Mood’s décor is a little subdued. For some inexplicable reason, I was expecting a riot of sumptuous silks and pretty porcelain platters, but was a little disappointed to be faced with the oriental minimalism of black-lacquered furniture, flashes of red lanterns and a rather plain Buddha head by the door. It all
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seemed a little tired, but the service on toast. The classic appetiser came was superb. In fact, the moment we as elegant sesame fingers rather crossed the restaurant’s threshold, than the usual clunky triangles of we were greeted with smiles that bread. They tasted as good as they made us feel everything was going to looked and were quickly demolished be excellent. And sure enough, once by battling chopsticks. Talking of seated, our every whim was catered which, if you’re a bit of a novice at for with seamless efficiency. using the tweezer-like utensils, the Subsequent diners were privy to staff are more than happy to bring the same treatment. Even when the you some regular cutlery. tables quickly filled with a mixture For mains, the honey-glazed cod of regulars, businessmen and hotel dish that I desired wasn’t available. guests, our water was topped up – Thankfully, the waiter knew the an act often neglected when a waiter menu well enough to be able is juggling several tables at once. to confidently recommend an The carefully curated menu alternative of sole. featured a few of my My dining companion fancied VERDICT: takeaway favourites, but something a bit meatier there was plenty of posh and, after consulting our 10 nosh on offer, including all-knowing server, settled Elegant oriental Szechwan stir-fried for sizzling beef. Both of dining elevated with in-house lobster and Hunan us ordered a bowl of egg entertainment chicken. fried rice to accompany Suffering from a post-flight our courses, but were gently cold, I decided to indulge in persuaded to share two different a comforting bowl of chicken and types of rice instead – a good call sweetcorn soup to start, while my considering we ended up dining companion volunteered to try the communally. house speciality of dim sum – the Kate’s scorching meat came out Cantonese equivalent of tapas. first. Still waiting for my fish dish Although I’ve never really liked to arrive, I hungrily tucked into her the slimy-looking shell of Chinese platter. It was great-quality beef and dumplings, Kate thought the little the flavours were authentic enough. vegetable parcels were perfect. My Still, the star dish of the evening broth was hot, flavoursome and full was the fish served two ways, sweetof floating shards of chicken meat. and-sour and soy. But my heart Delicious. The portion wasn’t big, nearly stopped when the sole came though, and I was glad that we had out artfully encased in its skeleton. also decided to order some prawns It looked incredibly dramatic, but
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as regular readers know, I have a phobia about fish heads. As such, the waiter was forced to whip away the offending carcass before my squealing went up another notch. The remaining chunks of fish were beautifully cooked and the contrasting sauces were more delicate than expected. Yes, the food was lovely and the service close to exceptional, but the evening’s pièce de résistance had to be the tea ceremony. We had already experienced a teaser of the tea sommelier’s showboating earlier in the evening, but were entranced by the entertainment that followed. Like a lithe cat, the server bent and twisted while pouring tea from a dramatic-looking pot into neighbouring cups. It was like a fiveminute Cirque du Soleil act. Okay, I exaggerate but it was good – so good that I was willing to leave my trio of puddings for it. Despite the fact that the dessert looked deliciously decadent, the only sample of sweets I really enjoyed was the homemade ice cream. It was packed with the flavour of fresh strawberries and nicely offset the tartness of the mango. The accompanying greentea cheesecake and chocolate cake were a bit bland, though, and needed a serious injection of sugar. All in all, it was a feast fit for a 21stcentury foodie – delicious, but not quite as decadent as the Manchu Han Imperial dinners of old.