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CHARCUTERIE
GOURMET NEWS JUNE 2015 www.gourmetnews.com
Respect for Tradition Exemplifies West Loop Salumi BY MICAH CHEEK
Like most new things in Chicago, Greg Laketek is on his way up. In the two years since Laketek’s West Loop Salumi opened, his client list has ballooned with the names of heavy hitting businesses. “There were always dreams of serving the customers we have,” says Laketek, “We never expected them to seek us out.” Among those seekers are famed restaurants such as Alinea and Nomi, as well as high profile market retailers, including Eataly NYC. Fueled by the stunning endorsements of traveling chefs, West Loop meats are finding their way into culinary hot spots from San Diego to Boca Raton. Laketek, 29, opened West Loop Salumi in 2013 after spending four years training under master salumiere Massimo Spigaroli. At Spigaroli’s Antica Corte Pollavicina in Polesine Parmense, he learned the craft of curing and preserving meats with an eye for quality ingredients and Old World techniques. Laketek even took part in the processing of the British royal family’s prized Berkshire hogs. When he returned to his home town of Chicago, he saw that these traditional Italian salamis were in nowhere to be found. “I noticed in Chicago, not many people are doing salumi and charcuterie; it seemed like a good market to get into.” he says. West Loop Salumi began with a small crew and no safety net. Laketek recalls, “Last year we had a flood because we had a frozen pipe. We ended up losing about $140,000 in product. That was our first eight months, we only had three employees, and our products weren’t covered in the insurance. It was a big hit to us.” The flooded shop could not stop the flood of praise, however, and West Loop
rebounded to even more critical success. Zagat has since included Laketek in its “30 under 30 2014” list, as well as “11 Chicago Food Artisans to Watch.” West Loop Salumi takes its name from the neighborhood it occupies, a formerly industrial area that is now a dining and art hot spot. The neighborhood’s rebirth as a fine food and leisure hub, though beneficial to the city, is not without its consequences. Greg says, “West Loop was the butchering and packing area of Chicago. It’s really dying though, now this area is called Restaurant Row, there are only a few butcher shops left here. It’s really a shame. Hotels and restaurants are coming in and raising the rent.” A particular loss, Greg says, is the redevelopment of the Fulton Cold Storage building, which had operated for over 90 years. “They took all the old signage down. Google is using the building. The insulation was all horse hair; it took four months to defrost the place.” From the start, buyers could tell something was different about West Loop’s wares. Laketek believes the contrast lies in how other American processors make charcuterie, compared to how he was trained in Italy. “Producers out here don’t understand how to make the salumi we’re making,” he says. The difference can be seen especially well in meats like culatello, a whole muscle ham cured in wine, salt and pepper for more than 12 months, which West Loop makes in the Italian style. “The thing about culatello is you can’t import it, it’s not available in the US. We’re now doing the culatello the way they did, but not many others can,” Laketek says. He found that he could avoid using nitrite, a commonly used
The Only Gruyere AOP in the World, 900 Years in the Making In 1115 AD, a cheese was discovered in Western Switzerland in a beautiful region with rolling fields, scenic mountains, and a majestic castle. This place, called Gruyères, located in the canton of Gribourg, Switzerland, is the origin of Le Gruyère AOP. More than 900 years ago, Count Guillaume of Gruyère addressed a charter to the Rougemont monastery defining the monastery’s duties in terms of cheese production and specifics along with various other obligations.
For Gruyère, the AOP guarantees the authenticity that their products are manufactured according to the traditional knowhow. Gruyère AOP is one of a kind, and it is the only cheese that can be called Gruyère AOP Switzerland. It’s made from the raw milk of cows sustained in the same local fields, hand-made in 170 small batches with the same recipe since 1115 AD, then slow-aged in local cellars and caves. The uniquely smooth, savory true flavor
preservative for cured meat products, in his culatello by aging it even longer, up to 16 months. This keen knowledge of the curing process sets his products apart from his competitors. “They’re cutting corners they don’t even know they’re cutting. It’s about attention to detail,” he says. Attention to detail goes hand in hand with the extremely high quality ingredients that West Loop starts with. Berkshire and Iberian pork are heavily used, as are fresh Calabrian peppers. Laketek takes special pride in his braseola, which he formerly made with pasture-raised, grass-fed beef. “We’ve switched to just using wagyu now. We are the only producer in the US that’s allowed to make bresaola without spraying any bleach on it. We use the acidity of white wine vinegar to make it stable.” While the lowlands of Parma are ideal for the dry curing of specialty pork, the environment of Chicago doesn’t lend itself to the process. The chill and humidity of the Midwest would make traditional open air curing impossible if not for West Loop’s state of the art curing chambers. A constantly operating computer carefully balances the humidity and heat needed to promote the right bacterial cultures and drying times. Laketek is bucking an old trend in American eating. When looking for salami, the American diner has an expectation of
glossy, razor thin slices with a distinctly chewy quality. West Loop teaches a different lesson. The texture of its product is notably soft, even delicate. The casing must be gently removed to avoid taking bits of pork with it. Portions are cut in a thick wedge, similar to a serving of cheese. The thin slices are all pieces of whole muscles, cut against the grain. Having proven himself in classic ciauscolos and sopprassetas, Laketek has begun to try new things. His Lagunitas IPA salame features not only the hoppy beer, but toasted spent grains from brewing as well. The Finnochiona is dusted with fennel pollen before aging. The Krug Champagne and Truffle is as decadent as it sounds; finely aged Krug Grande Cuvee adds flavors of sweet barley, and pieces of Alba black truffles are hidden throughout. “A chef needs to start out with a basis of how to make the basics. You can’t just say ‘I have a crazy idea, let’s put Sriracha and plum wine into a salami,’ without any background,” Laketek says. The USDA has declared Laketek’s salamis completely shelf stable. They travel well too, as the meats are packed with degassers and deoxygenizers. For the retail market, Laketek has a few tips for care and handling. “For salami, we just recommend they don’t keep them in the fridge or deli case. Those cases have a lot of moisture in them. Salami breathes, just like bread. We recommend taking it out of the package, letting it hang and do its thing.” GN
you will find only in Le Gruyère AOP is 100 percent natural, 100 percent additive free, and naturally free of lactose and gluten. Gruyère AOP is the perfect complement to your cuisine. For a smooth and mild yet extremely satisfying taste, Le Gruyère AOP Classic is aged a minimum of five months. Le Gruyère AOP Reserve, which has been aged for 10 months or more, has a smooth but more robust flavor. Some wheels will be matured up to 18, or even 24, months for lovers of strong sensations. Gruyère d’Alpage AOP is also a denomination protected by the AOP specifications. It is only made in the summer, from
mid-May to around mid-October. Cows go up to mountain pasture and graze on lush and varied grass. The milk they produce is rich in flavor, which is passed on to the cheese. Gruyère d’Alpage AOP is exclusively pressed in cloth. At the beginning of autumn, the Alpine herdsmen and their herds come back down from the mountains. All varieties are great in recipes, or sliced as a snack. Whatever the age of the Gruyère AOP you are savoring, its qualities remain the same. For more information about the history, the process, great recipes and more, visit gruyere.com.
Edmond Fallot Gherkins (Cornichon Pickles)
The Heritage of Monograno Felicetti
The Edmond Fallot family has enjoyed a worldwide reputation for exceptional quality products since 1840. The firm of Edmond Fallot, still family owned and operated by Edmond Fallot’s great-grandson, continues the uncompromising production of unique delicacies with the manufacture of Cornichons Extra Fine Gherkins. A carefully guarded recipe is used to produce Edmond Fallot Cornichons Extra Fine Gherkins. Select, extra small and crisp baby cucumbers are bathed in a brine of vinegar, pearl onions, tarragon and spices for a zesty, small pickle that is sure to become a favorite in any pantry. Imported from France, these crisp, tart baby pickles can be enjoyed in a number of delicious ways.
The Monograno Felicetti pasta company is situated in a uniquely pristine setting nestled at the base of the Dolomites, three thousand feet in altitude, near the Avisio River. It is located in the town of Predazzo in the heart of the magnificent Fiemme Valley in Italy’s Trentino region, an area energized by the surrounding peaks. Their award-winning pasta is made using crystal-clear mountain water and then dried in the uniquely unpolluted mountain air. For Felicetti and its people, it is a privilege to live and work in one of Europe’s most beautiful high-altitude landscapes. They are proud to be part of a community
French Cornichons are a traditional accompaniment to pâtés, smoked meats and fish and are an essential addition to a charcuterie plate. They add a deliciously tart twist when chopped and tossed into pasta salads, hidden between the layers of a Reuben sandwich or served on an antipasti platter with roasted red peppers, grilled asparagus, artichokes and marinated mushrooms. The suggested retail price fro Edmond Fallout Cornichons Extra Fine Gherkins is $6.80. To contact The French Farm, call 713.660.0577 or go online to www.frenchfarm.com.
that transforms daily the harshness and challenges of its mountain home into valuable resources. The environment is a gift, acknowledged with the commitment always to act with respect for its magnificence. For more information, contact Sales Manager Massimo Cannas at the company’s American office in Ladera Ranch, California. He can be reached by phone directly at 949.481.9273 or on his cell phone at 949.230.6866. Email Cannas at massimo@maxcointernational.com. In addition, visit www.felicetti.it/en/ for more information or email info@maxco international.com.