foodservice April 2018 by YAFFA MEDIA

Chefs’ Circle – Meet ICC Sydney’s executive chef Tony Panetta Tulum – Take a culinary journey through Turkey with Coskun Uysal Huck’s Rant – If waiter’s said what they really thought Next Generation Recipe Den – Recipes by 12 of Australia’s hottest young chefs

TULUM’S Clarence River prawns and cinnamon borlotti beans with broth

Dining

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April 2018

A FRESH NEW LOOK FOR AGB

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April 2018

EDITORIAL

foodservicenews.com.au

PUBLISHER HELEN DAVIES

EDITOR ANITA CONNORS (02) 9213 8335 anitaconnors@yaffa.com.au CONSULTING EDITOR JILL DUPLEIX NATIONAL SALES MANAGER RHONNIE MERRY (02) 9213 8241 Mobile: 0417 617 077 rhonniemerry@yaffa.com.au CONTRIBUTORS Tony Eldred, Tim Grey, Lisa Hasen, Anthony Huckstep, Amanda Kane, Yasmin Newman, John Susman

ART DIRECTOR ANA MARIA HERAUD STUDIO MANAGER LAUREN ESDAILE DESIGNER STÃ&#x2030;PHANIE BLANDIN DE CHALAIN

ADVERTISING PRODUCTION JOHN VISKOVICH (02) 9213 8215 johnviskovich@yaffa.com.au CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER MARTIN PHILLPOTT MARKETING MANAGER SABARINAH ELIJAH PRODUCTION DIRECTOR MATTHEW GUNN

oodservice is revelling this month with a special, extended issue. Chock-a-block, the April magazine is filled with your favourite columns and more. From ingredients to dishes, drinks to openings, Insider columnist Jill Dupleix reveals six of the biggest trends impacting the sector. Our resident bombaster, Anthony Huckstep, imagines a world where waitstaff shirk off their restraint and say what they really think and feel. Writer Tim Grey puts modern, Turkish cuisine under the microscope at 35-seat restaurant, Tulum. Speaking to restaurateur and chef, Coskun Uysal, the two discuss the gastronomic freedom of working in Melbourne and the benefits of a set course-only menu. And if you're contemplating joining an online delivery platform, Management guru Tony Eldred lays everything that you will have to mull over to maximise business success. It is also a privilege to launch the inaugural foodservice Next Generation Recipe Den. A glimpse into the culinary future of the industry, this unique feature sees 12, talented Aussie chefs, aged 35 or younger, share an exceptional or signature dish. What a treat!

Anita Connors Editor

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FOODSERVICE NEWS is published by Yaffa Media Pty Ltd ABN 54 002 699 354 17-21 Bellevue Street, Surry Hills NSW 2010 Ph: (02) 9281 2333 Fax: (02) 9281 2750 All mail to: GPO Box 606, Sydney NSW 2001 ISSN 1328-9039 MEMBER CIRCULATIONS AUDIT BOARD

Table of Contents

FEATURES

REGULARS

MEET EMILY BRIFFA

12 INSIDER

TRENDS, FADS AND CRAZES HERE ARE ALL THE THINGS THAT SHOULD ALREADY KNOW ABOUT.

TULUM RETHINKS TURKISH

HUCK’S RANT

BURGER KINGS

THE FORMER FRANKLIN CHEF IS USING HER HOBART CAFE AS AN INSTRUMENT FOR SOCIAL CHANGE. MELBOURNE RESTAURATEUR AND CHEF, COSKUN UYSAL, IS PUTTING THE SEVEN REGIONS OF TURKEY ON THE MENU. RESTAURANTS, POP-UPS AND DINERS, EVERYONE LOVES A GOOD BURGER.

NEXT GENERATION RECIPE DEN

12 OF AUSTRALIA’S HOTTEST YOUNG CHEFS SHARE THEIR FAVOURITE PORK, BEEF, CHICKEN, SPATCHCOCK AND CROCODILE RECIPES.

P. 20

P. 10

P. 14

P. 6

IMAGINE A WORLD WHERE THE CUSTOMER ISN’T ALWAYS RIGHT AND WAITSTAFF COULD SAY WHAT THEY REALLY THOUGHT.

30 MANAGEMENT

WHEN CONSIDERING JOINING A HOME DELIVERY SERVICE, IT’S IMPORTANT TO WEIGH UP THE PROS AND CONS.

36 PRODUCE

DISCOVER THE CULINARY DELIGHTS OF AUSTRALIAN KELP WITH STRAIGHT TO THE SOURCE.

PLUS N E W

A N D

N O T E D

OPENINGS JI

STARTERS P.6

LIP SERVICE P. 16

TO P

WHERE I

SIX THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW P. 12 MANA

PROFILE

GEMENT

TO NY E LDRE D

F O O D S E RV I C E

AUS Recipe Den cover.indd 1

INSIDER

R E S T A U R A N T S & B A R S

CHEF

FOOD S E RV IC E

21/03/18 4:37 PM

NEXT GENERATION RECIPE DEN

EMILY BRIFF P. 18

BEN WILLIS P. 10

HOME DELIVERY PLATFORMS P. 30

STARTERS

Just Opened

Bar Saracen

Bar Patrón by Rockpool

Laura

PUNCH LANE, 50-SEATER DISHING UP MIDDLE EASTERN FARE 22 Punch Lane Phone: (03) 8639 0265 Melbourne VIC 3000 barsaracen.com.au

PATRÓN TEQUILA AMIDST MEXICAN FAVOURITES 2 Phillip Street Phone: (02) 9259 5624 Sydney NSW 2000 barpatron.com.au

PHIL WOOD REFINES FINE DINING AT PT. LEO ESTATE 3649 Frankston-Flinders Road Phone: (03) 5989 9011 Merricks VIC 3916 ptleoestate.com.au

N E W

A N D

N O T E D

OPENINGS R E S T A U R A N T S & B A R S

New Quarter HANOI HANNAH’S THIRD RESTAURANT 79-83 Swan Street Phone: (03) 8391 1388 Richmond VIC 3121 hanoihannah.com.au/newquarter

NEW, NOTED, INTERESTING Across the country, here are Australia’s newest restaurants.

Redline Taphouse and Kitchen GRITS’N’GRAVY BY FLYING FAJITA SISTAS’ JOE SLAKEY 8A/1 Dalgal Way Phone:(02) 9188 3688 Forest Lodge NSW 2037 redlinebrewingco.com.au

Lover

Natural History Bar & Grill

Alibi

MOD OZ BY EX-CUTLER & CO HEAD CHEF PAUL TURNER 60 Chapel Street Phone: (03) 9510 6655 Windsor VIC 3181 facebook.com/lover3181

MORGAN MCGLONE & A 15-METRE WALL OF TAXIDERMY 401 Collins Street Phone: (03) 9982 1811 Melbourne VIC 3000 naturalhistorybarandgrill.com.au

GREEN CUISINE AND PLANT-BASED COCKTAILS 6 Cowper Wharf Roadway Phone: (02) 9331 9000 Woolloomooloo alibibar.com.au

CONVENIENCE Our trucks supply you with fresh oil in minutes, while our used oil trucks remove all of your spent oil, giving you time to focus on the more important elements in the kitchen.

STARTERS

OzHarvest CEO CookOff raises $2m for record-breaking feed OzHarvest celebrated its biggest ever CEO CookOff on Monday March 19 at Sydney’s Royal Hall of Industries with the help of 50 of Australia’s top chefs and 200 CEOs and corporate teams. The special, fundraising event raised a grand total of $2,021,555, which will go towards delivering four million meals to people in need. OzHarvest Founder and CEO Ronni Kahn says, “I’m simply blown away by the unbelievable efforts of the CEOs and teams, who threw themselves into this event with fundraising gusto.”

Quay Restaurant farewells the snow egg Peter Gilmore’s much-loved dessert, the snow egg, has been dropped from Quay’s menu after the restaurant closed on April 1 for a three-month renovation. The dish catapulted into fame following a star-turn on the 2010 final of television show, MasterChef. Across its 10-year lifespan, over 500,000 snow eggs were made in more than 20 different flavours. Gilmore says, “It was a tough decision but removing it gives me the opportunity to grow and evolve the menu to give guests a new dining experience.”

Gastro Park chef Grant King joins QT Sydney Boutique hotel group, QT Sydney, has welcomed Grant King as its new executive chef. The 2017 Gault & Millau Chef of the Year and former owner and chef of Potts Point’s Gastro Park and The Antipodean Restaurant, King will oversee all dining outlets as well as focus on the hotel’s flagship restaurant, Gowings Bar & Grill. “This is an exciting chapter in my career,” he says, “an opportunity where I can work closely with an outstanding brand and break the mould of typical hotel hospitality.”

2018 Fonterra Proud to Be a Chef reveals Byron Bay winner The winner of the 2018 Fonterra Proud to Be a Chef International Culinary Scholarship has been announced. And from the pool of 32 apprentice chefs, Rebekah White from The Byron at Byron Resort & Spa has come out on top. White goes on to enjoy $7,500 worth of prizes tailored to her own interests and professional goals. “Rebekah was very well organised and a natural born-leader,” says Fonterra Foodservice’s Peter Wright. “Over the four days of mentoring, people’s true colours shine through and Rebekah was so impressive that the decision to award her the scholarship was unanimous.”

WHERE I EAT WHERE I

F O O D S E RV I C E

AUS

AWARD-WINNING RESTAURATEUR AND CHEF OF CANBERRA'S AUBERGINE, BEN WILLIS, REVEALS HIS FAVOURITE VENUES AROUND THE CAPITAL.

BREAKFAST

AFTER SERVICE

I regularly go to Ona Coffee in Manuka for a cold brew and their jalapeño fritters. I’m a big fan of spicy breakfasts.

Bar Rochford on London Circuit for a drink or two. It has a great vibe, an interesting selection of wines, great food, people and music.

LONG LUNCH

UNIQUELY CANBERRA

XO Restaurant at Narrabundah shops. The guys there put out a great product and are committed to improving it daily. It’s exciting to see their progression.

The whole NewActon precinct is amazing. We regularly take visitors to Monster - the food is awesome and the building shows people that Canberra is not at all what they were expecting.

CHEAP EAT

PUB

Laksa at the Noodle House. When I’m tired and just want something simple but tasty that’s my go-to. It’s kind of my comfort food, I suppose.

The new Capital Brewing space in Fyshwick is a fun place to catch up with people. The beers are great and a nice burger from the Brodburger guys sorts out the food side of things.

PHOTOGRAPHY: BARANGAROO HOUSE

INSIDER

Fried, smoked brisket doughnuts at Smoke.

INSIDER

SIX THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT IF YOU DON’T ALREADY THE WORLD OF FOOD SHIFTS AND CHANGES AS TRENDS AND INNOVATIONS EBB AND FLOW. AT THIS MOMENT IN TIME, IT’S ALL ABOUT WINES ON TAP, FISH BUTCHERS, SMOKED BRISKET DOUGHNUTS, SEA URCHINS, GOOD OLD LEMON SQUASH – AND EYEBALLS. JILL DUPLEIX TRACKS THE TRENDS, SO YOU DON’T HAVE TO.

INSIDER JI

Jill Dupleix is a food writer, editor, cookbook author, restaurant critic and co-Director of Australia’s Top Restaurants.

SEA URCHINS They’re everywhere. The newly consistent line of supply is due to greater knowledge of breeding, harvesting methods and the need for culling large populations – and because more Australians have suddenly realised how damn delicious the rich, creamy tongues (technically, gonads) are when taken fresh from their spiky bauble of a shell and laid on hot buttered toast. It’s our very own foie-gras-of-the-sea.

to millennial form with blood orange and chilli soda and smoked cola.

2. LAST-GEN MIXERS If you grew up having a lemon squash at the pub with your dad, there’s a good chance your diners did, too. That’s why Melbourne’s James Bruce and Stafford Love have turned nostalgia into now with their StrangeLove organic mixers, which the cheeky chaps call “the closest thing you’ll get to homemade soft drinks without having to talk to old people”. As well as lemon squash, they’ve brought back classic cola, ginger beer, and even bitter lemon, before reverting

4. FISH BUTCHERY Instead of opening a highvolume fish-and-chippy next door as any sensible chef would have done, Josh Nyland of Paddington’s Saint Peter has built a boutique for his immaculately dry-filleted, fresh, smoked, cured or dry-aged fish and their accessories – liver, roe, milt, bones, and skin. Expect Fish Butchery to influence seafood retailers the way Anthony Puharich’s pioneering Victor Churchill did butcher shops when it opened in 2009.

3. SAVOURY DOUGHNUTS They just keep getting better – like the batter-based, smoked brisket doughnuts at rooftop bar, Smoke, at Barangaroo House in Sydney, and the choux-puffs with sour cream and salmon roe in the front bar at Cutler & Co in Melbourne. Sea urchin doughnuts are only a matter of time.

5. WINES ON TAP In a clever bid to reduce packaging, energy and transport costs, more and more premium wines are being sold on tap. Sydney’s Chin Chin has five, sourced from Brokenwood, Jim Barry and Yabby Lake; while Prahran’s Ladro Tap has 18 taps covering beer, wine and softies, served straight from 30-litre kegs into glass or carafe. They even have a ‘Tap-py Hour’. Also check out TapWines’ cute little Prosecco van, for on-site, on-tap Italian bubbles across Victoria. Best to go with the flow, I reckon. 6. EYEBALLS Yep, they’ve been sighted floating in cocktails down MONA way in Hobart, created by Void Bar mixologist Adam Turner. For the Feral Boar’s eye black margarita, the frozen eyeball of a feral pig is floated in a black stemmed, eyeshaped, pottery goblet designed by Kirsha Kaechele. It’s going to star in Kaechele’s forthcoming book on invasive species, Eat The Problem – something to keep an eye out for.

CHEFS’ CIRCLE

Chefs’ Circle

PHOTOGRAPHY: ICC SYDNEY

EXECUTIVE CHEF OF INTERNATIONAL CONVENTION CENTRE SYDNEY, TONY PANETTA, CHAMPIONS COLLABORATING WITH AND CELEBRATING OUR LOCAL, AUSTRALIAN FARMERS.

Tony Panetta in the ICC Sydney kitchen.

uilding relationships with our local farmers is not just a passion of mine, it’s part of our award-winning Feeding Your Performance Philosophy (FYP) here at ICC Sydney. FYP focuses on fuelling both the body and mind with delicious and nutritious meals. It helps drive event, visitor and business success, and provides delegates with the substance they need to think, collaborate and innovate. Hand in hand with this is our commitment to supporting the growth and success of local farmers. We currently engage with 85 farmers from New South Wales and this number will only continue to grow. But we don’t just engage with local farmers, we collaborate with them. Last year we worked with ALTO Olive founder, Robert

Armstrong, to create an exclusive ICC Sydney blend of extra virgin olive oil. We purchased 400 bottles of the unique blend, and committed to a further 1,750 litres. Collaborating with local farmers means we form partnerships and are able to deliver the best outcome for us, our delegates and the farmer. It also means we have the advantage of hearing directly from the farmer when there has been a plentiful season, which then sees us incorporate seasonal produce into our culinary collection. We like to get creative when we have an abundance of a particular fruit or vegetable and are avid believers in all the wonderful ways you can preserve and get longevity out of produce. Take for example green tomatoes,

using a recipe from my mother we pickle the tomatoes and use it as a condiment in our sandwiches to add an extra layer of flavour. Lemons are another favourite of ours to preserve and are included in our menus throughout the year. The preserved lemons add a refreshing burst of flavour to both sweet and savoury dishes and the bright colour is beautiful on the plate. One of my most favourite stone fruits is cherries. We preserve this juicy summer fruit in syrup and are then able to incorporate it into our dishes no matter what the season is. Last summer we purchased over 300 kilograms of 11 Organics’ finest cherries, of which we kept some aside to preserve and now will be able to share with delegates for the year to come.

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HUCKâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S RANT

HUCK’S RANT

LIP SERVICE IMAGINE IF WAITSTAFF DIDN’T HAVE A FILTER, ANTHONY HUCKSTEP HAS. AND THIS MONTH HE CONJURES A WORLD WHERE FRONT OF HOUSE TELL IT LIKE IT IS.

erving rude guests can be tougher than a $2 steak, but waitstaff have an astounding ability to bite their tongue, but what if they didn’t? AFTER PERUSING THE MENU, SOME GUESTS WILL ASK WAITERSTAFF WHAT THEY WOULD ORDER. What waitstaff say: “The chicken is ‘popular’.” What they think: “From here? Nothing, the chef can’t cook. I’d rather eat an armpit.” “IS THE SPECIAL OF THE DAY NICE?” What waitstaff say: “Well, we only have a few serves left.” What they think: “The chef should have binned it yesterday, but his food costs are higher than a hippy.” WHEN PEOPLE WHO TURN UP BEFORE OPENING TIME, KNOCK ON THE DOOR AND ASK TO COME IN. What waitstaff say: “Sure, the restaurant is not quite set up but take a seat in our bar area.” What they think: “Do you put your clothes on before getting into the shower too?”

Anthony Huckstep is the national restaurant critic for delicious. and a food writer for The Australian, GQ Australia and QANTAS.

GUESTS THAT DON’T KNOW WHAT NAME THEY’RE BOOKED UNDER. What waitstaff say: “No problem, let’s take a look.”

What they think: “You don’t know the name of the reservation? Oh, here it is, it’s booked under Plonker!” WHEN GUESTS CLICK THEIR FINGERS TO BE SERVED. What waitstaff say: “Yes sir, is there a problem?” What they think: “Sorry sir, but it takes more than two fingers to make me come.” WHEN GUESTS ASK IF THERE ARE ANY GLUTEN-FREE DISHES AND THEN ORDER BREAD. What waitstaff say: “It’s great bread isn’t it?” What they think: “You just ordered bread like a dickhead!” WHEN GUESTS USE THE WORD ‘ALLERGY’ WHEN IT’S ACTUALLY A DISLIKE. What waitstaff say: “Sure, we can arrange that for you.” What they think: “Oh so you’re allergic to egg, but you love ice cream, you gallah.” WHEN GUESTS GENUINELY ASK TO KEEP A GLASS, CUTLERY OR A PLATE (YES IT HAPPENS). What waitstaff say: “I can write down the brand and supplier to help you locate it.” What they think: “Get the f$#@ outta here, you muppet.”

WHEN GUESTS ASK, “DO YOU HAVE A TOILET?” What waitstaff say: “Yes, the bathroom is just this way.” What they think: “Oh no! We just use the loo in the service station on the corner.” WHEN A MAN SAYS MY WIFE NEEDS TO GO TO THE TOILET. What waitstaff say: “Yes, let me show your wife to the bathroom.” What they think: “Can your wife not speak, do you eat for her as well?” WHEN PEOPLE ASK ABOUT THE EXACT THING YOU’VE JUST TOLD THEM ABOUT. What waitstaff say: "We repeat ourselves (again and again and again)." What they think: "No, just jokes we actually sell shoes." WHEN GUESTS LET THEIR CHILDREN RUN AMOK THROUGH THE RESTAURANT. What waitstaff say: “Excuse me, but we’d be grateful if your children could be seated.” What they think: “Your child is the antichrist, may you and your family burn in hell.”

PROFILE

IT TAKES A VILLAGE WITH ITS BENTWOOD CHAIRS, HANGING GREENERY, AVOCADO ON TOAST WITH POACHED EGGS, AND THE HISS AND THRUM OF THE ESPRESSO COFFEE MACHINE, HOBART’S HAMLET CAFÉ LOOKS AND FEELS LIKE ANY OTHER COSY NEIGHBOURHOOD CAFE. LOOK MORE CLOSELY, SAYS JILL DUPLEIX, BECAUSE FORMER FRANKLIN CHEF EMILY BRIFFA HAS IN FACT BUILT AN INSTRUMENT FOR SOCIAL CHANGE.

TO P

PROFILE CHEF

here are no specials of the day on the blackboard at Hobart’s Hamlet café. Instead, there is a list of the people doing work experience that day. Co-founders Emily Briffa and Millie Pardoe opened the venue in 2016 as a social enterprise as much as a cafe, giving people facing employment challenges a real chance to gain practical experience, skills and confidence. “We’ve had more than 300 people apply for the work experience training since we opened, and we have managed to start 154 of those people into a program, providing more than 7,100 hours of work experience,” says Emily. “Fifty-one of them have gone on to find paid employment, which is awesome.” Melbourne-born Briffa left her studies at Monash University in 2010 and “fell into the kitchen” at Kinfolk, a social enterprise cafe in Bourke Street co-founded by her brother Jarrod Briffa. She learnt on the job, training under Ravi Prasad (now in Sydney running community cafe Parliament on King from the front room of his home in Newtown) before running the kitchen herself. A collaborative dinner with chef David Moyle led to a job offer at Hobart’s muchadmired Franklin restaurant, and “quite randomly”, she was off to Tasmania to work in Franklin’s wood-fired kitchen. After a year, she wanted to do more. “I’ve always been interested in creating social change without forcing people to change their behaviour,” she says. “Hamlet allows people to do something they enjoy anyway, like going out for coffee, yet creates social value out of it.” The idea came from two distinct social issues. “While hospitality is booming in Tasmania, there is a distinct skills shortage,” she says. “At the same time, there are so many people unemployed, disadvantaged either by language or numeracy skills or intellectual

disabilities. So there was a real need for onthe-job work experience and training.” From day one, the community came to the door offering help. “The thing about Hobart is that everyone is touched by unemployment, people know how real it is, so we had a huge amount of support.” Builders and architects, she says, used to drop in after work to help out with labour and skills. Locals and volunteers still arrive with windfalls of zucchini and apples from their orchards and veggie gardens for the cafe’s shelves of jams and pickles. Her advice to anyone wishing to do the same is typically down-to-earth. “Talk to different people working in that area, find out what is needed” she says. “And make sure your business is sustainable, regardless of the social programs. If you go under, it’s no good for anyone.” Hamlet Café 40 Molle Street, Hobart TAS 7000 hamlet.org.au

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DINING

TULUM RETHINKS TURKISH TIM GREY TAKES A TRIP THROUGH THE SEVEN, CULINARY REGIONS OF TURKEY WITH MELBOURNE RESTAURATEUR AND CHEF, COSKUN UYSAL.

PHOTOGRAPHY: TIM GREY

DINING

Coskun Uysal (right) with Tulum head chef, Sina Sucuka.

oskun Uysal is allergic to doing a half-arsed job. As a teenager with a soccer ball, for instance, his ambition wasn’t to kick it around in the street: he wanted to go pro. “I didn’t just want to be someone who could play football,” he explains, arms folded across the marble tabletop. “If I did it, I to do it the best I can.” So it’s consistent with his character that when he settled on a career as a chef, he approached it with the tenacity of a cattle-dog on a hoof. “I always wanted to be a professional football player, until I was eighteen and I found out I wasn’t going to be good enough,” he recalls, without a hint of regret. “So I decided that I can be a chef but I want to be a good chef.” And Uysal is indeed a good chef: in his very first year running Tulum, his 35-seater restaurant in the Melbourne suburb of Balaclava, he was met with glowing reviews. Gourmet Traveller’s Michael Harden declared that the young chef “truly understands the origins of the dishes, ingredients and flavours that he's remaking and reworking,” and both Gary Mehigan and Dan Stock named Uysal’s cilbir their dish of the year. Cilbir is Uysal’s food philosophy in microcosm. Firstly, it embodied all the easy warmth of an Istanbul kitchen; smoked garlic yoghurt and soft-poached eggs, served with a side of fluffy pide, it was the first thing his mother would make for him when she got home from work. It was also on her apron strings that he began to learn her craft. “In Turkey, the mothers have to work, and the fathers go to a coffeeshop and have a coffee all day. The mothers go out and do their job all day to bring the money in,” he explains. “Because she’s always busy-busy, and I’m the youngest, I missed her. But whenever she’s home, I wanted to stick to her. So I was in the kitchen.” But secondly, cilbir is super-smart. Comfort food it may be, but Uysal’s dish is far from rustic. Marshalling the technique he learned from Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen and the River Cafe in London, he elevates a homey dish into something both striking and delicious - adding crisp wafers of chicken skin and two kinds of burnt butter, one firm and crumbly and the other spiked with sumac. Despite its success, you can’t try cilbir at Tulum. “The next day, it was off my menu. I don’t want people to be talking about one dish,” says Uysal. “You get bored as a chef if you keep doing the same thing. It makes you feel lazy.” At this point, it probably bears mention that’s Uysal’s idea of Turkish cuisine is miles outside the stereotype. If you’ve come expecting dips, you’ll be sorely disappointed. “When people ask where I’m from, I always think, ‘Oh my god, not again,’” he complains mildly. “Because when I say I’m Turkish and a chef, they say, ‘We love kebabs!’” There are no kebabs at Tulum. Uysal’s cuisine draws instead from the recipes from across Turkey’s seven regions while keeping pace with the contemporary restaurants in both Istanbul and London. He considers it his mission to educate Australians about the diversity - and beauty - of modern Turkish cuisine. “It is

DINING

Above: Uysal peering into the Tulum dining room from the kitchen. Left: Karides with prawns and cinnamon borlotti beans with broth, and Turkish spoon salad and stuffed prawn head.

difficult, but the country needs people like us to go out and say that at home, we don’t eat kebabs,” he says. “For the next ten years, I want to give my message to people in this country. This is my dream, and it’s become more than a business. It has become about telling stories about Turkey. It’s become my job to represent the people in Turkey. I think with the plate, it represents my country.” It might sound contradictory, but Uysal reckons it’s easier to revolutionise Turkish food in Melbourne than it would be in Istanbul. “In Turkey, especially in Istanbul, there are only two or three Turks who are trying to do what I’m doing here. In Turkey, your mum is the only one who cooks at home. Whatever you do as a chef in Istanbul, they’ll always compare it with their mum. So you can’t win. You never win,” he explains. “But here, we use fantastic ingredients from Melbourne and mix it with some spices, and then we put them on a plate imaginatively, and there’s always a story behind why we do it.” In his opinion, Australians’ receptiveness to messing about with tradition stems from George Calombaris and the ground-breaking work he did at the Press Club (not to mention the television program that shall remain nameless). “Because of George Calombaris, what he did for Greek cuisine in this country, because of him ten years ago, that’s why I love working in this country. He opened people’s minds,” he says. “Now I’m doing the same things - but everyone is already open-minded.”

DINING

Left above: Tulum’s Kereviz, braised celeriac with carrot pureer, pickled pear and smoked labne. Left below: Acur, yoghurt muhallebi, cucumber sorbet, garlic and dill meringue, and minted cucumber. Right: Jars of pickled vegetables, mismatched plants and blue-green fishscale tiles line the walls of the Tulum dining room.

“In Turkey, your mum is the only one who cooks at home. Whatever you do as a chef in Istanbul, they’ll always compare it with their mum. So you can’t win. You never win,” he explains. “But here, we use fantastic ingredients from Melbourne and mix it with some spices, and then we put them on a plate imaginatively, and there’s always a story behind why we do it.” And - not to humble-brag about my lowly profession - Uysal also believes that the culture of food journalism here in Melbourne helps elevate the scene as a whole. “In this country, the food and wine level are so high, higher than Europe. I lived and worked in London, and I’ve been to New York, and it’s great. But here in Melbourne, the food is better than all the big cities. You know why? Because every single night, I’m expecting a restaurant reviewer,” he argues. “I know that tonight someone will come in. Because of that, we’re all concentrating on not to have any mistakes tonight. It has to be perfect.” Uysal’s success in changing the conversation has already begun to pay dividends - and not merely for Tulum. Last year, he stopped offering an à la carte menu because all the local restaurants had begun ripping off his recipes. “All the Turkish restaurants started copying our dishes - which is fantastic. I’m so happy with it. Honestly, I have no problem with it because what I want to do is show people that

Turkish is not just about kebabs and dips,” he says. “Now the Turkish restaurants around see that you can do something different.” Instead, guests at Tulum all get a five-course set menu, which entirely changes with the seasons. At the moment, for instance, the kitchen’s sending out kereviz - celeriac braised in olive oil and orange juice, carrot puree, pickled pear and smoked labne; karides - Clarence River prawns and cinnamon barlotti beans and broth, Turkish spoon salad with a stuffed prawn head; and acur - yoghurt muhallebi, cucumber sorbet, garlic meringue, dill meringue and minted cucumber juice. “Every three months, I change all the menu, all the suppliers, and I change all my system in the kitchen,” he says. “In Turkey, we have seven regions, so every three months, we do one region’s dishes.” Uysal’s critical and commercial success is a long way to travel in just three years - to mention nothing of the journey to a strange city on the other side of the world where he knew exactly no-one. This year, besides working on a book, Uysal plans to stick to his knitting and keep working on improving his business, with a goal to moving to a grander venue (with high ceilings) sometime in the next two years. “It’s sleepless. Every day, before I go to bed, I’m reading up on how to cook an eggplant the perfect way. It never stops,” he admits. “It’s a big pressure, every day. No relaxing, no resting. That pressure, it’s difficult, but it’s good for the guests.” Still, that’s the life of a hungry young man who wants to play in the bigleague. “I think when you’re ambitious, you make your life difficult.”

TRADE TALK

BURGER KINGS DINERS AND VENUES ALIKE LOVE A GOOD BURGER. AFFORDABLE, ACCESSIBLE AND CASUAL, THEY OFFER RESTAURANTS, CAFES AND BARS CONSISTENTLY FLEXIBLE MENU ITEMS, WRITES ANITA CONNORS.

TRADE TA L K

Melbourne pop-up, Midtown, offers diners a range of superhero-related and American-style burgers.

tasty burger is the sum of its parts. A fresh bun, high quality produce, flavourful sauces and a healthy sprinkling of seasoning. Ben Avramides agrees. “It’s in the quality of the meat, grilled really well on the outside but still pink in the middle. A soft bun is also important, but a really good burger is about the condiment and pickle distribution - a balance of sauce, mustard and crunchy gherkins is essential.”

The managing director of catering company, Tommy Collins by Atlantic Group, recently launched Midtown, the official pop-up restaurant to Marvel’s Avengers STATION exhibition in Melbourne. “We’ve built a gritty New York diner,” he says, “but what was really important to us was to deliver quality food in a cool space that wouldn’t fall into the trap of gimmick or a ‘themed’ venue. Our philosophy is to do the simple things well.”

This is not dissimilar to Harry Nguyen’s approach. The owner and chef of Sydney’s Monte Alto Eatery & Bar is aware that “a good burger is the cohesiveness between the amount of bun, meat, sauces and topping.” But more than that, he is “committed to delivering a unique experience for all guests. We twist the classics and create new culinary dishes that excite our taste buds.” ON THE MENU As an all-in-one cafe, restaurant

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TRADE TALK

Above clockwise: The wagyu and double-smoked bacon burger at Monte Alto Eatery & Bar; a Midtown burger; and Nguyen in the kitchen with 100 per cent wagyu beef patties.

and bar, Monte Alto Eatery & Bar features five, gourmet burgers on the menu, all served on a toasted milk bun. They include the soft shell crab with Asian slaw, tomatoes, carrot pickle and Thai tamarind sauce, and the halloumi with mixed leaves, tomatoes, carrot pickle and pesto aioli. “(However) the wagyu and double-smoked bacon burger is a sure-fire winner,” says Nguyen, and has been one of the most popular dishes since opening. For Avramides, the Midtown stand-out is “‘The Gauntlet’ because everything in it is doubled up from the ‘All American’ cheeseburger. The grilled chicken and cheese is also amazing, particularly if you add fresh chilli.” There is another burger in the works, which has not been named yet. Avramides says, “Chef Tommy McIntosh is developing a double-beef patty pinched together and filled with cheese, then crumbed and fried for crunchy, oozy goodness. And he’s not shy on the condiment and pickle allocation either.” THE GOOD BURGER The influence of Americanstyle burgers on the Australian

market is unmistakable. There are many reasons for this; Nguyen believes the main instigator for this is social media and the influence it has on what consumers want to eat and where. “We are at the stage of eating with our eyes first,” he says, “the Aussie burger with the lot doesn’t look as appealing as the ‘cheese-porn’, American burger. But I strongly believe that once the hype is over, the classic Aussie burger will definitely be making a comeback.” Avramides is of a different opinion. He considers that when it comes to fast food, Americans have having had more time perfecting the little things, while Australians as a whole focus more on ingredients and provenance. As such, he says, “Putting the American ‘way’ to our produce is a great match.” He sees the Aussie burger as having been surpassed by exciting, new options. He sees this reflected in the fact that “food providers are specialising and burger joints are enjoying the flavour combination of other favourites like mac’n’cheese and hash browns.”

THAT’S A WRAP There are so many fads when it comes to burgers that it can be difficult predicting what is to come next. There really is no limit as long as it resonates with diners. This has lead to many frankenburgers on the market, over flowing with ingredients. For Avramides, the only rule that burger trends abide by nowadays is to be “more and more Insta-worthy, for better or worse.” Conversely, Nguyen considers simple to be better. He says, “At the end of the day, burgers are a classic dish which many Australians have and will continue to enjoy. There is a gap in the market right now for a simple, delicious burger which lands under a $15 price point, one that diners can indulge in without feeling sick from consuming too much meat or cheeses.” Nonetheless, the one thing that Avramides and Nguyen both agree on is that beef burgers should be served medium-rare. “It must be well grilled on the outside,” says Avramides. “The perfect burger has a patty that retains flavour and juiciness without sacrificing safety. Plus there is nothing worse than a soft and mushy patty.”

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PROFILE MANAGEMENT

TO JOIN A HOME DELIVERY SERVICE, OR NOT TO JOIN A HOME DELIVERY SERVICE HOSPITALITY SPECIALIST, TONY ELDRED, WEIGHS THE PROS AND CONS OF ATTACHING YOUR BUSINESS TO AN ONLINE DELIVERY PLATFORM.

MANA

GEMENT

TO NY ELDRE D FOOD S E RV IC E

Tony Eldred operates Eldred Hospitality Pty Ltd, ‘The Hospitality Specialists’. Contact him on (03) 9813 3311 or at eldtrain.com.au.

he rapid development of home delivery services has presented both opportunities and problems for restaurant and cafe owners. If you are considering travelling down this path you need to plan and approach the process with some care, or you may do damage to your brand. First, what products are you going to offer to the home delivery market? Many of your menu items will not travel well, and no matter how good that dish looks on a plate in your restaurant it may well arrive looking like the dog’s breakfast after it has been manually handled for some time. Sometimes it is even a good idea to develop some dishes that are specifically designed to travel. Next, you need to carefully consider what types of packaging are appropriate for the handling that is expected during delivery. Here you need to assess which ingredients need to be kept separate, which have a propensity to leak, which need to breathe (so they don’t go soggy), and which need to be maintained at

a specific temperature. Consider the well-developed pizza delivery system you would already be familiar with. Your home delivery arrives in a specially designed box which is supported from crushing with a little plastic tower in the centre. The whole box is then carried in an insulated carry pouch. There are many different packaging systems available for commercial food presentation and a bit of focussed research should result in a number of samples that you can trial – hopefully on your own friends and family first. Beware that specialist packaging can be quite expensive and this needs to be taken into account in your pricing. You should also realise that there is quite a backlash against one use, throw-away plastic packaging – especially among the younger population who have been schooled in environmental care and sustainability. Despite the fact that plastic packaging may present a cheaper alternative to other types of bio-degradable

packaging, it may not present your brand in the best possible light. If possible, your packaging should all carry your logo, web address and phone number. Printed packaging will also add to your costs. It is also a good idea to include some, or all of the following in the delivered parcel: printed napkins, disposable cutlery (in case it is being delivered to an office or commercial premises), a printed delivery menu list and a fridge magnet with your details on it. Again, all this will add to your costs. Moving on, you will have to consider the logistics of having delivery people coming in and sometimes waiting for their food to be readied and packed. Where are they going to wait? How will the production of delivery items slow down your in-house service? If your home delivery products become popular there could be quite a high proportion of your production going straight out the door, resulting in your

MANAGEMENT

The rapid development of home delivery services has presented both opportunities and problems for restaurant and cafe owners. If you are considering travelling down this path you need to plan and approach the process with some care, or you may do damage to your brand.

in-house customers having longer waits for their food than are reasonable. Next, what sorts of environments are you delivering to? Consider a CBD restaurant delivering to commercial offices and the like within the city. If your delivery is picked-up in a car, the driver will have to find a park – which could be quite a distance away. They will have to then launch out into the congested traffic and crawl along at a snail’s pace until they arrive at the delivery destination then find another park, find the particular office and deliver.

This could take quite some time, resulting in the driver wanting to avoid you next time and your food arriving in less than optimum condition. The answer is to select the delivery system to match the environment you are operating in. For CBD locations I recommend bicycle or motorbike delivery – they can both chew through the traffic and park on the footpath. For suburban locations I would use either motorbike or car delivery systems. As for the economics of embracing home delivery, be careful. Delivery systems take up to 30% of the price. This could either be a very bad deal or a good deal depending on your

costs. Remember you do not have front-of-house wage costs, dishwashing costs, linen, bread or water with home delivery, so you do have some room to absorb the delivery percentage. You do however, have other costs like packaging and the other items previously mentioned to take into account. There is no doubt that the dining public are embracing home delivery in ever increasing numbers and this may present a major opportunity for you. If you find your business doing a fair volume of home deliveries, you might even consider setting-up a production only site just for this purpose, in a lower rent environment. Tread carefully...

TOOL TALK

ERVI ODS CE FO S I N C E 2 0 0 8

TOOL T A L K C

O M P A R I S

FAST, COMMERCIAL AND GREEN STODDART'S MATTHEW ROE DETAILS HOW THE RIGHT DISHWASHER CAN BOOST YOUR BOTTOM LINE WHILE HAVING A MINIMAL IMPACT ON THE ENVIRONMENT.

oad your domestic dishwasher at home and it will take anywhere from 45 minutes to 90 minutes to achieve clean and sanitised wares. Place identical contents into a commercial dishwasher and we are achieving a sanitised result from 46 seconds to 3 minutes dependant on model and task at hand. That’s a massive 96 per cent and upwards difference. With that in mind, it is easy to understand that dishwashing is serious business that can save time and money in one’s establishment. Not only are they fast, commercial dishwashers are water and energy efficient to any user who implements an automatic system over hand washing.

ELECTROLUX GREEN&CLEAN RACK TYPE DISHWASHER Wash temperature: 55-65 °C Productivity per hour (max. speed): 200 racks / 3500 dishes Rinse water consumption (max. speed): 80 l/h Height with door open: 2095 mm Dimensions: 1785 x 2340 x 895 mm Weight: 500 kg For further information on the Electrolux Professional range of commercial dishwashers, please visit stoddart.com.au.

SO WHAT’S NEW? Electrolux Professional and Stoddart are again segment leaders in sustainability and new technology with the new green and clean, rack type dishwashers. Imagine offering a large, rack type dishwasher that uses just one glass of water to wash a whole rack of plates… Impossible was the common response until now. With just one glass of water required to clean an entire rack of wares, the new green and clean rack type dishwasher from Electrolux Professional delivers the lowest running costs on the market. Savings are calculated at 63 per cent less water, 34 per cent less energy and 63 per cent less detergent and rinse aid use than competitive models in the market. This new dishwasher can deliver savings into the thousands of dollars in any establishment currently utilising a rack type dishwasher. Electrolux have worked tirelessly to ensure that this new model is not only the easiest machine on the market for operators but is also the easiest to maintain. The machine’s adaptive touchscreen interface boasts simple graphics to guide operators, whilst a host of technical refinements ensure best in class reliability. The new automatic back up mode is a notable example of this, where the machine can flag any possible live faults to the operator. If there was ever an issue with the prewash, the machine could shut down the prewash function and divert all power and water at a slower wash speed to the wash section, allowing the machine to be kept in complete sanitising operation until such time that a service agent would arrive to rectify. True to its name, the green and clean rack type is Electrolux Professional’s most environmentally friendly dishwasher to date. There is even an option to utilise additional CO2 heat pump technology, on top of the class leading standard models. This allows natural ventless operation with no need to duct if the machine is to be placed in confined or difficult installation.

Small in size -

Big in stature

In the modern catering and food service sector, there is a capital element to be taken into account: space organisation. Space has been getting smaller and smaller in order to reduce operational costs. To address this requires a new way of thinking about a product: multi-function, efficient & space saving.

In one word: Kompatto

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www.foodservicenews.com.au/doty Choose your category and complete the entry form, providing the dish’s name, the restaurant it features at, and a brief description Entries close: 1 May 2018 Winners will be announced in the July 2018 issue of foodservice magazine.

Terms & Conditions: Only one entry required per dish. All dishes will be considered equally, regardless of number of nominations. A panel of industry experts will review all entries and a short list of finalists will be made. The finalist’s dishes will be judged on site and sampled and assessed on a number of criteria including presentation, flavour, texture, creativity, technique and value for money.

PRODUCE

AUSTRALIAN KELP STRAIGHT TO THE SOURCE’S TAWNYA BAHR AND LUCY ALLON SHARE THEIR LOVE FOR FRESH OR DRIED, ROASTED AND GROUND, PICKLED OR BRINED, KELP.

eaweed packs a punch when it comes to flavour and nutrition, so it’s no surprise that it has become one of the world’s hottest food trends in recent years. Seaweed has a long culinary history; Japanese sea-farmers have cultivated wakame since the Nara period (AD 710-794), there is evidence that seaweed was an important source of food and medicine for early coastal settlers in the Americas, and it features in many different cuisines around the world. Recent interest in native, wild and foraged foods has led to chefs seeking out the plethora of seaweed and sea vegetables growing in Australian coastal waters, exploring their umami flavours and experimenting with it for culinary use. Fresh or dried, roasted and ground, pickled or brined there are many creative ways to integrate seaweed into dishes, adding a complexity of flavours or simply used as an alternative to salt. Kelp is a large brown algae of which there are around 300 different varieties. Common or leather kelp (ecklonia radiata) is just one of many varieties of edible seaweed that grow in abundance in southern Australian, coastal waters. During spring and summer, kelp can be found washed up on beaches after heavy storms ready to be collected by foragers who comb the beaches as daylight breaks.

One such forager is Jo Lane from Sea Health Products, a business started over 40 years ago by Betty ‘The Kelp Lady’ Long from her property on the south coast of NSW. With a keen interest in kelp’s high nutritional value (kelp is rich in vitamins and essential minerals; in fact, it has been found to contain 10 times more natural concentration of calcium than milk!), Betty embarked on months of research to identify the types of kelp and the techniques required to dry and mill it so it retained colour, flavour

Kelp is a large brown algae of which there are around 300 different varieties. Common or leather kelp (ecklonia radiata) is just one of many varieties of edible seaweed that grow in abundance in southern Australian, coastal waters. and nutrients. Betty coined the name ‘golden kelp’ and started selling her ‘golden kelp meal’ commercially in Australia, as well as overseas. Jo, who now owns Sea Health Products, has a licence from NSW DPI (Fisheries) to forage Golden Kelp along the south coast of NSW, and continues to produce a range of pure Australian kelp products perfect for culinary use, including powder, granules, and, a new product in the final stages of development - dried kelp strips that can be added to water to produce a savoury umami seaweed stock.

Straight To The Source creates behind-thescenes hands-on regional food experiences for chefs and hospitality professionals. For chefs interested in Australian kelp foraging, or connecting with other producers, makers and farmers, head to straighttothesource.com. au or email info@straighttothesource.com.au.

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WOMEN IN FOODSERVICE AWARDS (WIFA) The Women In Foodservice awards celebrate the successful women of the foodservice sector.

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Entries close: August 1st THE AWARDS WILL BE PRESENTED AT A GALA BRUNCH IN MELBOURNE AT 2018 FINE FOOD AUSTRALIA.

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Table of Contents

Next Generation Recipe Den This special supplement of foodservice magazine is dedicated to the many talented and brilliant, young chefs working in the Australian foodservice industry today. With unwavering dedication and passion, this community of emerging stars is transforming the sector for the better through delicious, innovative dishes and an inclusive approach. We are humbled to have 12 of the country’s best and brightest to share with us their recipes with proteins as varied as pork, beef, chicken, spatchcock and crocodile. Thank you also to our partners and supporters of the next generation of chefs, Australian Pork and Kikkoman. Anita Connors editor of foodservice

RECIPES 6

MAL MEIER’S

ALANNA SAPWELL’S

AARON WARD’S

THI LE’S

ZACKARY FURST’S

TROY CRISANTE’S

JACQUI CHALLINOR’S

FRANCESCO CASTELLANA’S

SMOKED PORK JOWL WITH CALAMARI AND PUMPKIN BROTH FAT-WASHED MARSHMALLOWS PORK SIRLOIN, LIQUORICE, CLAMS AND CABBAGE PORK TOMAHAWK WITH DIPPING SAUCE AND BANANA KETCHUP

P. 12

P. 17

WAGYU BEEF FILLET WRAPPED IN NORI SHEET, BAMBOO MUSHROOMS AND PETITES RADISHES

ADRIAN LI’S

PAMELA VALDÉS’

MATHEW LEIGHTON’S

P. 8

BBQ SPATCHCOCK WITH CHERMOULA, CHARRED BABY COS AND SHEEP’S MILK YOGHURT

P. 7

BLACK PUDDING

ZACH GREEN’S

P. 10

PORK NECK, MACADAMIA AND LEEKS WITH WAX FLOWER AND OIL

P. 6

P. 19

CROCODILE FETTUCCINE BIA CAN CHICKEN CHICKEN TOSTADAS

BBQ-SPICED SIRLOIN WITH SLOW-ROASTED TOMATO AND SHALLOT, STEAMED LEEKS, OLIVES

P. 20

P. 18

TOP ROW

• Ben O’Donoghue – Billykart & Billykart West End, Brisbane • Dan Moss – Terroir Auburn, Clare Valley, SA • Jerry Mai – Annam & Pho Nom, Melbourne • Claire Van Vuuren – Bloodwood, Sydney & Popla, Bellingen, NSW

For these fun-loving chefs, the kitchen is their playground and Australian Pork is their favourite toy. Whether they’re rustling up something classic, simple or a cutting edge creation, no other meat is as versatile, allowing them to explore and indulge their imaginations. Be a PorkStar. And get some Pork on your menu.

BOTTOM ROW

• Cameron Matthews – Spicers Retreats – National • Joe Pavlovich – Bondi Trattoria, Sydney • Dave Pynt – Burnt Ends, Singapore • Thi Le – Anchovy, Melbourne • Dan Fisher – Ku De Ta, Perth • Aaron Ward – Young Chef of the Year 2017, Appetite for Excellence

AUSTRALIAN PORK

Smoked pork jowl with calamari and pumpkin broth, Mal Meiers. Right: Fat-washed marshmallows, Alanna Sapwell.

MAL MEIER’S SMOKED PORK JOWL WITH CALAMARI AND PUMPKIN BROTH SERVES 4-6

SMOKED PORK JOWL 2 jowls rind on about 600g each 2 l brine Olive oil Clean the glands from jowls and brine for 8 hours. Next vacuum in olive oil and cook at 85°C for a further 12 hours. Chill in ice water, and once the jowl is cool, clean away the skin reserving for another use or garnish if you wish. BRINE 2 l water 100 g salt 50 g brown sugar Thyme Bay leaves Black pepper Juniper berries Allspice

In a large oven tray, combine the pumpkin and seaweed and cover with water. Sprinkle with salt and roast in the oven at 160°C for two hours. Remove from oven and cool. Strain carefully and reserve the broth. SEA VEGETABLES GARNISH Activated pumpkin seeds Saltbush Samphire Virgin pumpkin seed oil In a small bowl, combine all ingredients and set aside. TO ASSEMBLE Smoke the jowls prior to service over pine needles and hickory chips. Set aside in a warm oven. In a small saucepan, begin to heat up the pumpkin broth. Cook the calamari gently at 65°C in the extra virgin olive oil and strain before seasoning to taste. Place the confit calamari in shallow bowls. Next slice the jowl and place on top of the calamari.

Season pumpkin broth with salt and pumpkin oil and pour over the dish. Garnish with the sea vegetables and pumpkins seeds. Mal Meiers is the founder of Food for Thought, and works at Hobart’s Franklin.

ALANNA SAPWELL’S FAT-WASHED MARSHMALLOWS

FAT WASH 150 g rendered pancetta or speck fat 250 ml rum Mix well the pork fat with the rum. Sous vide at 72°C for 6 hrs before allowing to freeze. Once frozen, remove the fat (this should come off in one piece) and reserve the fat-infused rum.

Stir all the ingredients together in a saucepan and bring the boil. Stir continuously until the sugar is dissolved. Allow to cool before using.

Line up the calamari tubes one on top of the other and semi-freeze before slicing to noodle thickness. Portion out and reserve in the fridge. ROAST PUMPKIN BROTH 2 kg Japanese pumpkin 100 g kombu seaweed 2 tbsp salt Cut the pumpkin into large cubes and roast in a hot oven until caramelised completely.

PHOTOGRAPHY: CARLA ORSATTI

CALAMARI 500 g calamari tubes, cleaned 300 g extra virgin olive oil

AUSTRALIAN PORK

MARSHMALLOW 188 ml water 84 g glucose 625 g sugar 58 ml fat-infused rum 30 g gelatine, preferably titanium 110g egg whites, smoked and half-whipped In a small saucepan, heat the water, glucose and sugar to 130°C. Add the egg whites in a slow, steady stream. In a separate bowl, mix the gelatine and fat-infused rum. Once the residual heat has melted the gelatine pour into egg white mixture. Whisk until fluffy and pour into lined and well-sprayed oven tray (23 cm x 33 cm). Transfer to the fridge and allow to set. DUSTING 150 g rendered pancetta or speck fat 50 g malto Salt, to taste Place the malto in a bowl and slowly add the melted fat, whisking to combine. Add salt to taste. TO SERVE Cut the marshmallows into 2 cm squares, and roll in the dusting immediately to avoid sticking. Serve at room temperature. Alanna Sapwell is the head chef of Sydney’s Saint Peter.

AARON WARD’S PORK SIRLOIN, LIQUORICE, CLAMS AND CABBAGE SERVES 4

PORK SIRLOIN 500 g pork sirloin, skin removed 1.3 l water 100 g brown sugar 20 g liquorice root powder 50 g sea salt

Add the salt to 1 litre of water and dissolve. Add the pork sirloin and brine for 12 hours. Remove and dry for 6 hours or overnight. To create the glaze, combine 300 ml of water, the brown sugar and liquorice root power in a small sauce pan and bring to the boil. Reduce by half and allow to cool. Preheat the oven to 120°C. Heat a large fry pan on high and add the pork, fat side down. Render for 2 minutes. Sear all the over sides before placing on an oven rack. Brush with the liquorice glaze and cook until internal temperature reaches 54°C. Brush 3 times while in the oven. Allow to rest. CLAMS 500 g clams 100 ml white wine 1 onion 2 celery sticks 1 sprig thyme 300 g butter, diced Heat a large saucepan with a lid on high heat until very hot. Add the clams, white wine, onion, celery and thyme for 90 seconds and remove. Drain and reserve the liquid, remove clams from the shell. Reduce 200 ml of the reserved clam liquid to 50ml and whisk butter into it to create an emulsified sauce. CABBAGE 1 small savoy cabbage 8 small kale leaves 8 small calvo nero leaves Cabbage salt Remove the outer leaves of savoy cabbage and cut the outer leaves with circle cutter. Chargrill inner core of cabbage. Blanch kale and calvo nero in salted water. TO ASSEMBLE Slice the pork sirloin into 4 pieces and plate. Add the chargrilled cabbage. Dress the plate with the clams and butter emulsion. Garnish with the kale and calvo nero. Dust with cabbage salt. Aaron Ward was Appetite for Excellence’s Young Chef of the Year 2017.

Pork sirloin, liquorice, clams and cabbage, Aaron Ward.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JANA LANGHORST

AUSTRALIAN PORK

THI LE’S PORK TOMAHAWK WITH DIPPING SAUCE AND BANANA KETCHUP SERVES 4 HERB BOWL Butter lettuce Perilla Coriander Mint Spearmint Combine all the ingredients and toss. DIPPING SAUCE 50 g fish sauce 50 g tamarind 50 g palm sugar Smoked rice powder Smoked chilli powder Combine the fish sauce, tamarind and palm sugar in a small bowl and bring to the boil. Allow to cool before adding the chilli and smoked rice powders, to your taste. BANANA KETCHUP 125 g shallots, brunoise 5 g garlic 1 tbsp tomato paste 150 g ripened banana puree 150 g banana vinegar 2 cloves, ground 1/4 tsp black pepper, ground 1/2 tbsp soy sauce, or to taste 1 bay leaves 50 g brown sugar 1 tbsp annatto seed, ground 2-3 bird’s eye chillis, minced Pork tomahawk with dipping sauce and banana ketchup, Thi Le.

In a pan, sweat the shallot and garlic until soft. Next add the chilli and combine well. Add the remainder ingredients except for soy. Cook on low for about 1 hour, then check consistency (add water if too thick). Add soy sauce to taste, and blend until smooth.

TOMAHAWK 400 g Pork tomahawk 100 g oyster sauce 100 g fish sauce 2-3 garlic, smashed 10 g sesame oil 100 g Coca Cola Banana ketchup In a large bowl, combine the oyster sauce, fish sauce, garlic, sesame oil and cola. Reserve some glaze for grilling, before marinating the pork. Take the reserve marinade and mix with equal amounts of banana ketchup. Grill the pork tomahawke on the barbeque for 3-4 minutes each side, glazing both sides. The meat should be charred, smoky and slightly sticky. Allow to rest for 8-10 minutes. Return the pork to the grill to heat up 1-2 minutes on each side, then carve the pork into thin slices. TO ASSEMBLE Serve the pork with the spiced tamarind dipping sauce, fresh lettuce and herbs. Thi Le is the restaurateur and chef of Melbourne’s Anchovy.

ZACKARY FURST’S PORK NECK, MACADAMIA AND LEEKS WITH WAX FLOWER OIL PORK NECK 100 ml fresh apple juice 100 ml onion juice 100 ml apple vinegar 5 g star anise 5g brown sugar 5 g Murray River salt flakes 1 small Western Plains pork collar butt 20 g butter, diced

AUSTRALIAN PORK

100 g winter purslane Fennel pollen Sweet chardonnay vinegar Lightly trim the pork neck, maintaining the round shape. Rub in the salt flakes and sugar then cryvac with apple, onion and apple juices and star anise. Sous-vide at 68°C for 24 hours. NB. If not sous-vide, gently braise the pork neck in a light stock for 4 to 6 hours. Take the pork out of the bag straining and reserving the liquid. Cling film the pork and roll into a round shape and chill in ice. When completely cold, portion into 90 gram medallions and place on a lined oven tray. In a small saucepan, reduce the excess liquid it has an almost jus-like consistency. Strain again and mix in the diced butter. Prepare this liquid to serve by slowly heating the portions in an oven at 160°C and glazing with the reduced cooking liquids. MACADAMIA SAUCE 100 g macadamia nuts 20 g macadamia oil 150 g water 1 g xanthan gum Salt 100 ml lemon juice 100 ml apple cider vinegar In a blender, purée the macadamia nuts, oil, xanthan gum and water for 20-30 minutes, or until silky smooth. Strain through a fine sieve and season with salt before adding the lemon juice and apple cider vinegar (adjusting the quantites of the apple cider vinegar and water depending on taste). To serve, heat slowly in a small saucepan. SALTED LEEKS IN WAX OIL 1 leek Salt 150 g Geraldton wax flower needles 100 g vegetable oil

Pork neck macadamia and leeks with wax flower oil, Zackary Furst.

Halve the leek lengthways and then chop into 1 centimetre-sized pieces. Transfer it to a bowl and season with salt. Allow to chill in the fridge for 2 hours. In a small saucepan, combine the Geraldton wax flower needles and

vegetable oil and heat to 100°C. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Strain the leeks then steam them until just past al dente. Allow to cool. To serve, slowly heat in some Geraldton wax oil. TO ASSEMBLE Place the pork in the oven and heat gradually, glazing continuously. In the meantime, slowly heat the macadamia sauce and leeks. Season the hot, glazed pork with salt flakes and place in the middle of the plate. Top with warm leeks and drizzle with Geraldton wax oil. Scatter the leaks with crisp, fresh winter purslane leaves and coat with macadamia sauce. Dust with a little fennel pollen and a few small drops of sweet chardonnay vinegar. Zackary Furst is the sous chef of Melbourne’s IDES restaurant.

TROY CRISANTE’S BLACK PUDDING SERVES 12

BLACK PUDDING 2 l pig’s blood 400 g chocolate, finely grated 400 g fresh bread crumbs 40 g salt 300 g double cream 800 g lard, finely diced 200 g escharllot, finely diced 50 g garlic, finely diced 100 ml XO sherry vinegar 200 ml oloroso sherry Begin by rendering a quarter off the backfat in a saucepan and strain off. Add the shallot and garlic, sweat until soft. Allow to cool. Mix garlic and shallots with cream. Keep separate. In a large bowl, add the pig’s blood, lard, bread crumbs and

Left: Black pudding, Troy Crisante.

chocolate, and combine well. Next mix in the sherry vinegar and oloroso sherry before adding the cream and shallot mix. Vacuum seal in small bags (3 cm height) and steam at 75°C for 10 minutes. Turn over and steam for a further 15 minutes (portion 5 x 5 cm). SALT-BAKED BEETROOT 4 medium-sized red beetroots 200 g fine salt 200 g egg whites Preheat the oven to 180°C. Whip the egg whites until soft peaks are formed. Slowly add the salt until a rough dough is created. On a clean benchtop, roll the dough out to 5 mm thickness. Wrap the beetroots with the dough, ensuring there is no breaks in the seal. Place on an oven tray and bake for 40 mins, or until the internal temperature reaches 80°C. Remove from the oven and cool, leaving the salt crust intact. Once cool, remove the salt crust and carefully peel the beetroots. Slice the beetroots on a meat slicer as thinly as possible.

BEETROOT AND BALSAMIC REDUCTION 750 ml beetroot juice 100 ml aged Italian balsamic vinegar Pour 500 ml of beetroot juice in a saucepan and reduce to 100 ml. Allow to cool then add the remaining beetroot juice and balsamic. TO ASSEMBLE Transfer the black pudding to a frying pan on medium heat. Seal on all sides, allowing the black pudding to caramelise and for a thin crust to form all over. Transfer to the oven for 2 minutes, or until heated through. Place the beetroot slices on a tray and brush with the beetroot and balsamic reduction. Pleat the slices so that they resemble a flower or folded sheets of linen, and place on top of the roasted black pudding. Drizzle a little reduction before finising with white linaria flowers. Troy Crisante mans the pans at Sydney’s Firedoor.

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RECIPE KIKKOMAN

JACQUI CHALLINOR’S BBQ SPATCHCOCK WITH CHERMOULA, CHARRED BABY COS AND SHEEP’S MILK YOGHURT

milk yoghurt to the side. Finish with half a lime. Jacqui Challinor is the head chef of Sydney’s Nomad.

SERVES 2 BBQ SPATCHCOCK 1 x 600 g spatchcock, butterflied 1 lime 1 head baby cos 100 g sheep’s milk yoghurt 1/2 clove garlic, minced 30 ml lemon juice 30 ml extra virgin olive oil Salt Pepper Chermoula 1/4 bunch parsley with some stem 1/4 bunch coriander with some stem 50 g red onion 1 clove garlic 45 ml extra virgin olive oil 1 tsp ground cumin 1 tsp sweet paprika 1 tbsp turmeric powder 1 tsp ras el hanout 1/4 tsp chilli powder 1/2 tsp salt For the chermoula, combine all ingredients in a food processor and blitz to a fine paste. Coat the the spatchcock with the chermoula and allow to marinate. For the sheep’s milk yoghurt, combine the yoghurt, 20 ml lemon juice, 20 ml olive oil, garlic and season to taste. Set aside. Barbeque the spatchcock until it reaches an internal temperature of 65°C, then allow to rest. In this time, quarter the baby cos before washing it and flashing it on the barbeque until it starts to wilt. Dress with remaining olive oil and lemon juice, and season to taste. TO SERVE Quarter spatchcock and divide the between two plates. Add the cos and daub of sheep’s

FRANCESCO CASTELLANA’S WAGYU BEEF FILLET WRAPPED IN NORI SHEET, BAMBOO MUSHROOMS AND PETITES RADISHES SERVES 4 WAGYU BEEF 400 g wagyu beef tenderloin, marble score minimum 7+ 30 ml white soy sauce 1 nori sheet Fresh Tellicherry peppercorns Fleur de sel Cut the beef tenderloin in 4 equal rectangle approximately 100 g per portion. Season the meat and sous vide in a vacuum sealed bag for 6 minutes at 56°C. Remove the beef and pat dry with paper towel. Brush the nori sheet with the white soy sauce and roll with the meat. Cook on a charcoal grill for 4-5 minutes, until the nori is crispy. Let the meat rest for 5 minutes in a warm place before slicing into even pieces. MUSHROOM PURÉE 600 g button mushroom, finely sliced 50 g dried porcini mushroom, rehydrated and chopped 50 ml olive oil 40 g butter 1 garlic cloves, peeled 2 shallots, chopped 500 ml mushroom stock 20 ml sherry vinegar Salt Pepper

BBQ spatchcock with chermoula, charred baby cos and sheep’s milk yoghurt, Jacqui Challinor.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JE REMY SIMONS

KIKKOMAN

Wagyu beef fillet wrapped in nori sheet, bamboo mushrooms and petites radishes, Francesco Castellana. Right: Crocodile fettuccine, Zach Green.

In a large pot, heat the olive oil with garlic and shallots, add the mushrooms and sauté for 15 minutes, or until golden in colour. Add the mushroom stock and continue cooking for about 20 minutes until the stock has almost evaporated. Season with salt and pepper. Transfer the mixture to a blender and add the sherry vinegar. Blitz until smooth. MASTER SAUCE 90 g beef master stock 60 g mushrooms stock 7.5 g pre-hydrated xanthan gum Combine beef master stock and mushroom stock in a small saucepan and bring to boil. Add xanthan gum and whisk to allow the mixture to thicken. Keep this sauce warm for plating. GARNISH 8 petite radishes, washed, dried and halved 16 thin slices of French breakfast radish 12 pickled daikon triangles, roughly 2 x 2 x 3 inches 4 long bamboo mushrooms, fried 1 pinch of shichimi togarashi 4 short bamboo mushroom, soaked in master stock for 20 minutes 16 micro-parsley shoots 20 ml yuzu juice Salt

ZACH GREEN’S CROCODILE FETTUCCINE SERVES: 3-4

350 g fettuccine 20 ml olive oil 1 clove garlic, roughly chopped 1 onion, peeled and sliced 4 bacon rashers, sliced 250 g mushrooms, sliced 400 ml thickened cream 3 tsp honey, or to taste 400 g crocodile tenderloin, thinly sliced 1 cup parsley, chopped 1/2 cup fresh basil, chopped 1/2 cup saltbush dukkah (a combination of dried Tasmanian pepperberry and saltbush leaves), chopped 1/2 cup dried lemon myrtle

Place a saucepan of water on the boil for the fettuccine. Cook until al dente. In a large frying pan, head the olive oil over a medium-high heat. Add the garlic and onion to the pan and fry, stirring, until onion is translucent. Add the bacon and mushrooms and fry, stirring, until lightly browned. Next add the cream and honey, stirring to combine. Simmer for about 2 minutes. Add the crocodile meat and stir. NB. The crocodile is added late in the cooking process to keep it moist and tender. Add the parsley, basil, dukkah and lemon myrtle and stir to combine well. Drain the fettuccine and add it to the pan, tossing and stirring to coat it well in the crocodile sauce. Serve immediately. Zach Green, restaurateur and chef of Darwin’s Elijah’s Kitchen, runs indigenous pop-up restaurants at food festivals and crosscultural events around Australia.

Lightly season the petite radish and French breakfast radish with the salt, olive oil and yuzu juice. In a hot fry pan, quickly sear the bottom of the short bamboo mushrooms and season well.

Francesco Castellana is the executive chef of Melbourne’s The Point.

PHOTOGRAPHY: XANTRE MACARAEG

TO SERVE Pipe a ring of mushroom purée over a plate and place the 4 slices of beef around it. Arrange all other garnishes in and around the slices of beef and pour about 35 ml of master sauce in the centre. Serve immediately

KIKKOMAN

ADRIAN LI’S BIA CAN CHICKEN SERVES 4-6

MARINADE 200 g shallots, peeled 6 lemongrass leaves, peeled and sliced 300 ml fish sauce 50 g chilli flakes 100 g five spice powder 24 kaffir lime leaves 300 g galangal, peeled Bia Hà Noi beer 60 g honey 1 whole chicken, size 12

Combine all the ingredients in a blender except the beer, and blitz until a paste is formed. Dilute the paste with 1/2 a can of Bia Hà Noi and coat the chicken. Marinate for at least 4 hours, rotating regularly. Preheat the oven to 200°C. Remove the chicken from the fridge and place the can with remaining beer in the chicken cavity, making sure that it is well-balanced. Place the chicken in the oven standing up for 30 minutes. NB. The upright position should allow all sides of the chicken to caramelise and cooked evenly. Rest for 10 minutes. Carve and serve. Adrian Li is the executive chef of the Melbourne-based Commune Group.

PAMELA VALDÉS’ CHICKEN TOSTADAS SERVES 4

CHICKEN TOSTADAS 4 tostadas 1/3 cup refried beans 1 cup shredded lettuce 1 cup shredded chicken 1/4 brown onion, sliced 1 tomato, sliced 2 tbsp sour cream 1/3 cup feta, crumbled Adobo salsa – optional (see recipe below) Divide and spread the refried beans across four tostadas. Layer each tostada with shredded lettuce, shredded chicken, sliced onion, sliced tomato, sour cream and feta. Top each tostada with a drizzle of adobo salsa.

PHOTOGRAPHY: JENNA FAHEY-WHITE

REFRIED BEANS 1/2 kilo black beans (soak in water overnight before using) 1/2 brown onion 2 cloves garlic Salt 1/2 cup pork fat or lard In a large saucepan, cover the beans with cold water by at least 2 inches. Add the half onion and garlic cloves and bring to a boil over a high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook until beans are very soft – about 1 hour. Drain the beans, reserving the cooking liquid and discarding onion and garlic. Process using a stick blender or mash with a potato masher to form a thick purée. In a frypan, melt the pork fat or lard over medium heat. Stir in the beans and cook for 2 minutes. If beans are too dry, add a little of the reserved cooking liquid. Season with salt.

Left: Bia can chicken, Adrian Li. Above: Chicken tostadas, Pamela ValdĂŠs.

KIKKOMAN

ADOBO SALSA 7 guajillo chillies 2 morita chillies 1/4 brown onion, diced 3 cloves garlic 3 tomatoes, chopped 1 tbsp vinegar Add the chillies, onion, garlic and tomatoes to a medium-sized saucepan, and cover with cold water by at least an inch. Bring to the boil over high heat. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 10-15 minutes, until chillies are soft. Drain the ingredients and process with a stick blender until a thick sauce is formed. Strain through a sieve to remove any remaining chilli skin. Add the vinegar and salt to taste, and stir to combine. SHREDDED CHICKEN 1/2 chicken breast 2 cloves garlic, bruised 1/4 onion, bruised 1 tbsp salt In a medium-sized saucepan, cover all the ingredients with water and bring to the boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook for 15-20 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through. Drain the chicken, discarding the garlic and onion. Leave to cool, then shred. Pamela Valdés is the head chef of Sydney’s Bar Patrón by Rockpool.

BBQ-spiced sirloin with slow-roasted tomato and shallot, steamed leeks, olives, Mathew Leighton.

MATHEW LEIGHTON’S BBQ-SPICED SIRLOIN WITH SLOWROASTED TOMATO AND SHALLOT, STEAMED LEEKS, OLIVES SERVES 4 4 x 200 g sirloin steak 2 punnets cherry tomatoes, cut in half 10 shallots, peeled

500 ml red wine 500 ml port 2 tbsp fresh chives, chopped 150 ml extra virgin olive oil 100 g green olives, sliced 2 leeks, cut into thirds 200 ml beef jus 4 tbsp BBQ spice Salt Pepper Extra olive oil Place the cherry tomato halves on a tray and dress with olive oil, salt and pepper. Put tray in the oven 160°C for about 8-10 minutes. Remove and leave to cool. Heat a pan on the stovetop at medium heat with a little olive oil. Add the shallots and cook until brown. Add the red wine and the port. Cover the pan with a lid and cook the shallots for 25-30 minutes, or until tender. Remove from the pan and allow to cool. Slice the cooled shallots and reserve the liquid, which can be added to the beef jus for extra flavour. In a bowl add the tomatoes, shallots, chives, extra virgin olive oil, green olives, salt and pepper. Mix well and set aside. In a saucepan, combine the sliced leeks and beef jus and simmer until the leeks are tender. At this time, you can add the reserved liquid from the shallots. Season the sirloin with the BBQ spice and a little salt. Place onto a hot chargrill and cook to desired temperature. TO SERVE Warm up the cherry tomato mix and divide amongst 4 serving plates. Add the leeks to the middle of each place. Slice each sirloin into 4 slices and place on top of the leeks. Pour over the beef jus and serve immediately. Mathew Leighton is the head chef of Sydney’s Luke’s Kitchen.