WV Living Fall 2017 by WV Living

FALL17

BARN WITH INN | SAVOR SHEPHERDSTOWN | FINDING NEBO

MEET 50 WOMEN WHO HAVE MADE OUR STATE A BETTER PLACE

HAWK KNOB ✚ How Huntington ✚ WEST VIRGINIA’S Proves the Time Became America’s First Recovery is Ripe for Cider Farm BEST COMMUNITY

VOLUME 10

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ISSUE 3

Fall 2017 NIKKI BOWMAN

features

Cider Resurrectionists

Make No Little Plans

West Virginia Wonder Women

Hawk Knob is bringing hard cider back, and they’re not stopping there.

How Huntington became America’s Best Community.

Our fourth annual list of women making our state a better place to live.

wvliving.com 5

VOLUME 10

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ISSUE 3

39 24

22 14 Folks Mike Costello of Lost Creek Farm brings history to the table.

14 Event Spencer’s Black Walnut Festival is one big homecoming.

15 Something New West Virginia’s first cat café.

16 Book Check out this new biography of Anne Royall, a West Virginia native and America’s first female journalist.

17 Queen for a Day Hear ye the royal decrees of her majesty, Kay Goodwin.

18 Country Roads Cool Springs Park is a pitstop like none other.

20 Sports Whitetail Frenzy introduces West

Virginia buck hunting to a national audience.

21 Sound Meet Lawrence Loh, new conductor of the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra.

22 How We Did It Appalachian Mountain Specialty Foods carries on a tasty tradition.

6 wvl • fall 2017

24 Shop ’Tis the season for Christmas at the

41 This You’ll want to break out the cloth

26 Shop Learn a new hobby and meet some

live

28 Hangout Clarksburg native Kirsten Wyatt,

47 Local Jacob’s Ladder is changing lives with

Barn in Masontown.

new friends at Bluefield Yarn Company.

a star of stage and screen, gives us her favorite hometown haunts.

taste 30 Maker Dominick Cerrone has turned a

Wheeling landmark into a food lovers’ haven.

32 Libations Summersville’s Kirkwood

Winery pops the cork on the 26th Grape Stomping Wine Festival.

33 Restaurant Hinton is becoming a dining destination, with two unique restaurants.

36 Restaurant Pizzas & Cream is a good

ways from anywhere, but it’s worth the drive.

39 Town We’ve got your crash course on Shepherdstown’s best eats.

napkins for these delectable pasta recipes.

a farm-based addiction recovery program.

57 Away Barn With Inn in Brooke County

provides a sampling of life’s simpler side.

in every issue 8 Editor’s Letter 10 Letters to the Editor

ON THE COVER Dolly Sods by Randall Sanger. To purchase Sanger a print of the photo, visit: http://www. randallsanger.com/ The-Golden-Hour/i5BntBsT/A

BARN WITH INN | SAVOR SHEPHERDSTOWN | FINDING NEBO FALL17

discover

MEET 50 WOMEN WHO HAVE MADE OUR STATE A BETTER PLACE

HAWK KNOB ✚ How Huntington ✚ WEST VIRGINIA’S Proves the Time Became America’s First Recovery is Ripe for Cider Farm BEST COMMUNITY

editor’s letter

A few of my favorite things... Wear your heritage around your neck with these locally made The Vintage Lady necklaces (thevintagelady.net thevintagelady.net), $26, 180 High Street, Harpers Ferry.

J.Q. Dickinson Salt Works (jqdsalt.com ( ) can be found all over the state. I purchased the Popping Corn, $6, at Wheeling Artisan Center, Center and the Popcorn Salt, $6.29, at Orr’s Farm Market. Market

These hand-printed letterpress posters from Base Camp Printing Company (basecampprintingco. com), $20, make great gifts, 613 Tennessee Avenue, Charleston.

Cheers to eating and drinking local with this Orr’s Farm Market dish towel, $10.99, 682 Orr Drive, Martinsburg, and these Every Day’s A Party tumblers, $6.99, and serving tray, $17.99, 3119 University Avenue, Morgantown.

8 wvl • fall 2017

“In a nation of millions, and a world of billions, the individual is still the first and basic agent of change.”

lyndon b. johnson

imagine this Halloween, given the popularity of the recent movie Wonder Woman, we are going to see a lot of young ladies running around with lassos. I even enjoyed playing with Facebook photo filters, trying to channel my inner warrior (hence my funny picture). But we’ve got the real Wonder Women role models in this issue ((page 78). It’s our fourth annual celebration of dynamic women who are making West Virginia a better place to live. This issue always makes me stand a little taller. When I was interviewing Phoebe Randolph, the first female president of the West Virginia chapter of American Institute of Architects, she said something that struck me. She said, “Women are less likely to think their opinion has merit. It has been ingrained in our heads.” And she is right. But times are changing. More and more women are speaking up, standing up, and taking on leadership roles. Just look at Buffalo. This town just elected the first all-female town council in the state. Or Charlene Diggs, Beckley’s first black female officer. Or the first woman to be named commissioner of the state Division of Corrections, Loita Butcher. Or look at Malene Davis, the CEO of Capital Caring, the largest hospice and palliative care providers in the country. As if that isn’t enough, she is also the president of the WVU Alumni Association board and is traveling the country encouraging people to bring a portion of their business to West Virginia. If just 10 percent of alumni from our state colleges would do this, it would be transformational. Speaking of transformational, one of the most powerful stories you’ll read about town revitalization is Zack Harold’s “Make No Small Plans”—a story about Huntington’s journey through the America’s Best Community competition ((page 70 ). What

is so inspirational about this is that this competition wasn’t looking for the perfect Norman Rockwell community; it was looking for cities that had an organized and visionary plan for tackling tough challenges. Through grit, vision, and good leadership, Huntington won $3 million. Its goals are epic and it has already made strides in reaching them. I hope you are moved and inspired by this story. All it takes is a little vision, a big idea, and lots of determination to make a difference. Take Josh Bennett and Will Lewis of Hawk Knob Hard Cider and Mead ((page 60 ). These horticulturalist friends and business partners might just be West Virginia’s version of Ben & Jerry. They pressed their way through bureaucratic red tape to open the state’s first modern commercial cidery. No small feat. And business is booming. Isn’t it surprising to learn that they were the state’s first, given our rich apple heritage? But it just goes to show the importance of the entrepreneurial spirit. They saw a gap and an opportunity and filled it. Stories like these are ones we like to tell. So promise me this: The next time you find yourself saying, “Hey, that gives me an idea,” don’t let it die on your tongue. Follow through. Make it happen. Be an agent of change. And your story will be the next one we tell.

nikki bowman, Editor Follow us on

facebook.com/wvliving twitter.com/wvliving pinterest.com/wvliving instagram @wvliving #wvliving

, and

letters to the editor

Just want to thank Chuck Toussieng for the vision he is sharing with the folks in Richwood. It would be a blessing if jobs can be realized as a result of Mr. Toussieng’s work. I left after graduation, in 1958, because there weren’t many opportunities for a young person, but my heart is still there. jim wiblin, via wvliving.com

We received lots of feedback on writer Pam Kasey’s story about Chuck Toussieng, who hopes to turn Richwood into a tech hub (“Man on Fire,” Summer ’17). Here’s a sampling.

10 wvl • fall 2017

Excellent article, Pam. Thank you for shedding positive light on Richwood and our beloved Chuck Toussieng. West Virginia’s future is wide open and we, Richwooders, are determined to be an example of how to make a positive impact on the quality of life and the economy in the state. This is especially true following the 1,000-year flood. jeromy rose, via wvliving.com

Man on Fire He’s not a native, but Chuck Toussieng has a burning desire to make Richwood a better place. written by pam

kasey

HOLLY K. CLARK

Chuck is a huge asset to Richwood. He’s made an investment to grow Richwood’s economy by giving the tools to people to have a marketable skill, be self employed, increase their knowledge, and he’s doing it for free. If you have it to give, give it away. It’s his community and he’s proven his commitment to the people here. Thanks Chuck! robin brown, via wvliving.com

out loud ‹‹ live

“Just want to thank Chuck Toussieng for the vision he is sharing with the folks in Richwood...”

letters to the editor

More About Richwood Thrilled to see this visionary effort taking place. As a child spent a lot of time in Richwood with the Hill Family. Loved Richwood, Main Street, and the golf course. It was an amazing town with brick streets, a lumber mill, and close-knit families. Not Mayberry but pretty close. nancy evans mosley, via Facebook I am so happy about this. My parents lived there for a few years, many years ago, in the 1930s. My dad was a physician for a logging company. andrea allen, via Facebook

Let us hear from you. We want to know what you think about the magazine, and weâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;d love to hear your suggestions. Email: info@newsouthmediainc.com Call: 304.413.0104 Mail: 709 Beechurst Avenue, Suite 14A, Morgantown, WV 26505 Take WV Living with you:

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VOLUME 10, ISSUE 3

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Nikki Bowman, nikki@newsouthmediainc.com

ART DIRECTOR

Carla Witt Ford, carla@newsouthmediainc.com

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Zack Harold, zack@newsouthmediainc.com

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Becky Moore, becky@newsouthmediainc.com Allison Daugherty, allison@newsouthmediainc.com Julian Wyant Wendy Holdren Nikki Bowman, Carla Witt Ford, Zack Harold, Randall Sanger Kristen Uppercue Heather Mills Berardi, heather@newsouthmediainc.com info@newsouthmediainc.com Subscription rate is $20 for 4 issues. Subscribe at wvliving.com or call 304.413.0104. Back issues may be purchased online at wvliving.com or by calling 304.413.0104. Unsolicited manuscripts are not accepted. Please send queries by email to info@newsouthmediainc.com.

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12 wvl • fall 2017

Discover WEST VIRGINIA IS A PL ACE OF BOUNDLESS DISCOVERY. HEREâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;S YOUR GUIDE.

CARLA WITT FORD

Normal is Boring We mountain people like to do things our way. Here are some stories of people blazing their own paths. PICTURED: QUIRKY DECORATIONS ABOUND AT CHRISTMAS AT THE BARN, PAGE 24 wvliving.com 13

discover ›› EVENT

The West Virginia Black Walnut Festival A beloved Calhoun County tradition celebrates its 63rd year.

Table Talk

Lost Creek Farm raises the profile of Appalachian cuisine through great meals and compelling stories. mike costello originally planned to go to culinary school. But, after he got a job at a high-end restaurant and saw the demanding schedules and crushing stress, he decided instead to go to journalism school at West Virginia University. He eventually found a way to combine his interests in food and story with Lost Creek Farm, a traveling kitchen he runs with his wife, Amy. They serve up sixcourse dinners at venues around West Virginia and its neighboring states, while also telling the stories behind the ingredients and dishes they serve. On any given night, Costello might tell diners the tale of Logan County’s famous Mortgage Lifter tomato, or the sausage made by Harrison County’s all-but-forgotten Spanish immigrant community, or his grandmother’s communion bread. There’s also an agricultural component to Lost Creek Farm. The couple grows heritage vegetables and raises rabbits, bees, laying hens, and cows. They already use some of those groceries for their dinners but plan to ramp up production even more in coming years. As Appalachian cuisine gains popularity nationwide, Costello says it’s time for West Virginia to realize its value. He’s happy to help. “Through food, we’re ambassadors for the state,” he says. “Appalachian food tradition is so full of stories people can be proud of.” written by

zack harold

14 wvl • fall 2017

written by kristen

uppercue

COURTESY OF LOST CREEK FARM, JEFF FETTY

FO LK S

for most of us, October brings visions of pumpkins and fodder shocks. But for the residents of Spencer, in Calhoun County, it’s all about black walnuts. The West Virginia Black Walnut Festival begins on Wednesday, October 11 this year and lasts until Sunday afternoon, October 15. Many events take place during the five-day extravaganza. There is a carnival, a flea market, a 4-H livestock show, and demonstrations including glass blowing and puppet shows. Craft, photo, and art shows display the local creativity. Fairgoers will enjoy live music free of charge every day. There is also a food court with 25 food vendors—including one who serves pancake breakfasts on Friday and Saturday morning. Friday is Kids Day and a parade honors the activities local children are involved in, including civic organizations, clubs, and school groups. That same day, organizers will crown a new Black Walnut Festival Queen. During the Grand Parade on Saturday, children’s groups, vintage cars, dozens of high school bands, and many other entries from all over the state walk the route, led by the queen. As many as 50,000 people have shown up to watch the Grand Parade. “They watch it from second floor windows and businesses, backyards, and everywhere—it’s just a great event,” says Spencer Mayor Terry Williams. Following the parade, the marching bands compete against one another in the annual Black Walnut Festival Marching Band and Majorette Competition. “It’s kind of like a giant homecoming, in a way,” Williams says. 304.927.1640, “WV Black Walnut Festival” on Facebook

‹‹ discover S O ME T HING NE W

Shop Before You Adopt

COURTESY OF GIVE PURRS A CHANCE

A new cat café makes the adoption process more fun than ever.

berkeley springs first made its name as West Virginia’s spa town. Now it’s home to the state’s first cat café. Coined Give Purrs A Chance as a play on the famous John Lennon tune, the café opened Mother’s Day weekend 2017. Cats and visitors can roam the five-bedroom Victorian house located right off U.S. Route 522. “The concept of a cat café is that the cats live in a cage-free environment where you can see their real personalities and get to know them. That was very important to us,” says George Farnham, founder of Give Purrs A Chance. If customers want more than the coffee and tea on sale in the Alice in Wonderland-themed café, they can enjoy their own takeout from elsewhere on the wraparound porch. The house has the largest square footage of any cat café in the country, according to its owners, and is the only one in a rural area, making Give Purrs A Chance one-of-a-kind. Farnham also believes he has the most cats of any café—20 to 50 at any given time. All of the felines in the building are up for adoption. The friendly felines come from four rescues in the area and are well-socialized, so visitors can play with, pet, and hold the cats. “It just makes it much easier to adopt them out when they’re well socialized, and people really enjoy that part of the café experience,” Farnham says. Visitors adopted 15 cats in the first seven weeks the café was open. Give Purrs A Chance has much more to offer. A yoga instructor leads “yoga with cats” classes several times a week. Music and dancing nights take place on the weekends, and a henna tattoo artist sometimes shows up to offer temporary body art. Local artists and craftspeople display cat-related crafts in the building’s “Catique Boutique,” where items for sale include jewelry, soap, and ceramics. The country’s first cat café opened just two years ago, but there are already more than 60 across the country and the trend continues to grow. “We believe this is the wave of the future for how cat adoptions should be handled,” Farnham says. 51 Independence Street, 304.258.7299, @givepurrsachance on Facebook written by kristen

uppercue wvliving.com 15

discover ››

Scold Case

In The Trials of a Scold: The Incredible True Story of Writer Anne Royall Royall, author Jeff Biggers chronicles the life of a Monroe County–born satirist, journalist, and publisher who was the first female journalist to land an interview with a president. She allegedly caught John Quincy Adams skinnydipping in the Potomac River, and sat on his clothes until he agreed to talk. She didn’t launch her career in letters until the age of 57, when her husband died and his relatives claimed the couple was never legally married. Royall lost the ensuing legal battle over her husband’s estate, leaving her nearly destitute. Royall wasted little time building a career as a journalist and soon was striking fear into the hearts of corrupt politicians of her day. She was funny and foul-mouthed, and within three years found herself embroiled in another court case that would etch her name in the history of American journalism. After a heated argument with a local Presbyterian congregation, Royall was arrested, charged with being an “evil disposed person” and a “common scold,” and tried in what Biggers calls “the Last American Witch Trial.” The case did not derail Royall’s commitment to investigative journalism. She eventually started her own newspaper and ran it until her death in 1854. Royall was 85 years old. Biggers is an American Book Award–winning journalist and contributor to The New York Times, Washington Post Post, and The Atlantic. Trials of a Scold goes on sale November 7. Ask for it at a locally owned bookseller near you and see why novelist Lee Smith calls Royall “the most interesting woman that I had never heard of.” written by zack

16 wvl • fall 2017

harold

THOMAS DUNNE BOOKS

BOOK

‹‹ discover

Q U E E N FOR A DAY

KAY GOODWIN Kay Goodwin retired last year as cabinet secretary for the state Department of Education and the Arts. Originally appointed by Governor Bob Wise in 2000, she spent 16 years as a tireless supporter of the visual and performing arts, earning recognition from the National Academy of Public Administrators, the American Society for Administrators, and the national Educational Theatre Association. And, in 2014, she was a member of WV Living’s inaugural class of Wonder Women. If I were Queen of West Virginia for a day, I would require all my subjects to: Value and pursue education, and respect our teachers. Support the arts and our culture of neighborly generosity and kindness.

COURTESY OF KAY GOODWIN

Enjoy our state parks, beautiful mountains, food, and folks. #gotowv Recognize it’s past time that our young people lead and control the future of our Home Among the Hills. wvliving.com 17

discover ›› C O U N T RY ROA D S

A Peculiar Pitstop No matter how many hours of driving are left on your road trip, Cool Springs turns a quick break into a mini-vacation. written by kristen

uppercue bowman

photographed by nikki

located along route 50 in Preston County, this mom and pop shop opened in 1949. Harlan Castle was looking for a place to go into business and thought a strip mall near Rowlesburg was the perfect pitstop for travellers. Cool Springs Park features all the typical gas station amenities, but has much more to offer, from knickknacks and shovels to alpacas and trains. Here’s our list of must-sees ➼ ➼ ➼

The water wheel

After seeing a small water wheel at another location, Harlan decided to build one at Cool Springs. The wheel has become a tourist attraction for the restaurant and convenience store. Even though it is not currently operating, guests can sit and enjoy the architecture while listening to the rushing water of the stream. 18 wvl • fall 2017

The gift shop & restaurant

If the cow on the roof did not prove this place was quirky, then the gift shop will. Lisa Creamer, daughter of owners Harlan and Mary Castle, says her dad’s catchphrase has always been “we have it, can get it, or it isn’t made.” A restaurant sits in the middle of the store, where you can order eggs and toast, burgers, or the store’s renowned footlong hot dogs.

The industrial garden

When you drive by Cool Springs Park, the first thing you may notice is the field of rusted equipment across from the property. Farm tools, tractors, and even an antique clock can be found in this Appalachian take on a sculpture garden. Kids—and dogs— can’t seem to stay away from this area of the park. Check out the red train sitting in the back corner. It’s sure to bring out the child in anyone.

The park

If you are looking for a place to take a break from driving, the park located next to the souvenir shop is the place to be. “(When) people are tired of driving, they like to come here to enjoy resting and walking around,” says Mary. Visitors can play on the wooden slide, train, and other antiques scattered across the property. Kids will love the enclosed animal exhibit that features multiple species including alpacas, donkeys, and rabbits, as well as a fishpond.

The covered bridge

Visitors love taking photos with the covered bridge that sits between rows of trees, creating a little getaway for those who stop to enjoy the scene. Moss grows atop the roof and a running stream flows underneath. The wooden structure, built by Harlan in the early 1970s, is full of antique tools that match the rustic theme of the rest of the property.

wvliving.com 19

discover ››

SP OR T S

Bow Brothers

Whitetail Frenzy introduces West Virginia hunting to prime-time TV. there’s a reason whitetail frenzy is the only nationally televised show where bowhunters bag trophy bucks in the hills of West Virginia. “It’s difficult,” says Kenny Davis, who started the show with his brother Aharon. Other shows might fill airtime with outfitter-run hunting trips, where prey has already been scouted and the tree stands are already set. But the Davis brothers and their crew do their own homework. “Typically we’ll run 20 trail cams apiece all over the state,” Kenny says. They invest dozens of hours of work long before they’re ready to start filming. That level of commitment speaks to the show’s other secret weapon, the Davis brothers. They started the show with consumer-grade cameras and no experience of videography, production, or editing. But they learned through trial and error, and it

20 wvl • fall 2017

was soon clear they had something special. Their sibling rivalry made for great on-screen chemistry. “And we started killing some really good bucks, on film,” Kenny says. They launched the show without any sponsors, paying for airtime by selling commercial spots to local businesses. But within just a few months, Winchester Archery was so impressed with the show it signed on as a title sponsor. Later, when Winchester Archery sold out to another company, the brothers went independent again. Whitetail Frenzy is now a completely West Virginia–run company. Currently in its fourth season, the show now has a nationwide audience on the Pursuit Channel. Locally, Suddenlink cable customers can catch the show on Suddenlink TV. Although they’re the stars of the show, the Davis brothers have kept their day jobs—

Kenny is a pharmaceutical Catch Whitetail rep and Aharon is a police Frenzy—featuring Aharon Davis, left, and officer in South Charleston. his brother Kenny—on But they’re happy to spend the Pursuit Channel or the Suddenlink their spare time making Channel. TV shows that change viewers’ perceptions of West Virginia and West Virginians. “We’re probably the first national show from this state that has represented the people well,” Kenny says. “I think our show can do a lot for the state.” They are already making a difference in that regard—the show receives dozens of emails each year from viewers who want to come to West Virginia and hunt. whitetailfrenzy.tv, @whitetailfrenzy on Facebook written and photographed by zack

harold

‹‹ discover Lawrence Loh is the new conductor of the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra, replacing Maestro Grant Cooper, who had led the ensemble since 2001.

S O U ND

Maestro!

Meet Lawrence Loh, the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra’s new conductor. there’s a new baton in town. After a long selection process, the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra has selected Lawrence Loh as its new conductor and music director. He’ll make his official debut on September 23 at the Clay Center in Charleston. Loh, who grew up in southern California, fell in love with music early on. His mom was a violinist and encouraged her son’s musical development. He took piano, violin, and clarinet lessons and was voted “most musical” in high school. Although he started college as a pre-med major, “the music part of me just kinda took over,” he says. He originally considered becoming a music theory teacher. Then, in his senior year, he took a course on conducting. He realized conducting was a combination of two things he enjoyed most about music—analysing it and performing it. If you give sheet music to 60 or 70 musicians and ask them to play, “you would have 60 or 70 different interpretations of the music,” Loh says. “There’s so much in between the black and white.” It’s the conductor’s job to navigate that gray area to create a unified sound. Loh followed his newfound passion to Yale, where he earned an artist diploma in orchestral conducting. He then began building an

impressive resume, with conducting positions at the Colorado Symphony Orchestra, the Dallas Symphony Orchestra, the Pittsburgh Symphony Orchestra, and the Syracuse Opera, in addition to guest conducting gigs all over the world. He applied for the job with the West Virginia Symphony Orchestra in June 2015, alongside 166 fellow hopefuls. Symphony officials winnowed down the field, and Loh found himself as one of six finalists. Each of the finalists conducted a try-out concert during the 2016 season so board members could gauge their chemistry with the symphony and the audience. Loh passed with flying colors and, in May 2017, the symphony announced he got the job. At his September 23 debut, the orchestra will perform Bernstein’s “Candide Overture,” Gershwin’s “Piano Concerto in F” featuring guest pianist Alexandre Moutouzkine, and Copland’s “Symphony No. 3.” Loh says much of the work in his first few seasons will be learning the orchestra members’ sensibilities. “It’s an exciting and fun process of discovery.” written and photographed by zack

harold wvliving.com 21

discover ››

Mix it up Inspiration through stories One of their first creations, Uncle Roy’s Old Fashioned Ramp Dressing, is named for Greg’s uncle, who took him fishing at Anthony’s Creek in Pocahontas County. After reeling in their haul, the duo dug ramps and grilled them in foil packets with the trout. Copperhead Bloody Mary Mix, created when Veronica was looking for something “with a little more bite,” was so named when her son Skylar was bit by a copperhead. Veronica says he now jokes about “taking one for the team.” A personal touch

Taste of Tradition The new owners of Appalachian Mountain Specialty Foods in Spencer build on a line of favorite flavors. written by wendy

holdren

veronica stover was devastated when she heard Steve and Marialice Seaman, who started Appalachian Mountain Specialty Foods more than two decades ago, were retiring. A 15-year customer, Stover appreciated the traditional Appalachian flavors—and the associated memories—the Seamans brought to their sauces and mixes. “It’s such a quality product,” she says. “It’s part of our heritage, and it’s something to be proud of here in West Virginia.” She and her husband, Greg, approached the couple about buying the business. In 2013, the Stovers acquired the business and helped it thrive, even while Veronica battled cancer. They invested in a manufacturing facility in Spencer and continued the Seamans’ tradition. Once Veronica’s cancer went into remission, she and Greg decided to invent some Appalachia-inspired recipes of their own to add to the product line. zestsauce.com 22 wvl • fall 2017

From a 40-gallon stockpot, then a smaller dispensing container, Veronica carefully funnels the mixes into each bottle. After filling, they’re capped, labeled, dated, and boxed—all by hand. Their family helps with the painstaking process: Veronica’s mom with labeling, Greg’s brothers with delivery, and the kids with product sales at fairs and festivals. Stepping it up Under the Seamans’ direction, Appalachian Mountain was a small operation, crafting the product in-home and selling exclusively at fairs and festivals. The Stovers are thinking bigger. Their products are now served at restaurants and sold in retail stores, both in and out of state. But no matter how far they expand, they don’t plan to sell to big box stores. “It’s a special product,” Veronica said. “It can only be bought and tasted at special places.”

COURTESY OF APPALACHIAN MOUNTAIN SPECIALITY FOODS

HOW WE DID I T

discover ››

SHOP

Christmas at the Barn In early November, a farm outside Masontown hosts one of the best holiday shows and sales in the state. written by nikki

bowman photographed by carla witt ford i know, christmas seems to come sooner and sooner every year. But trust me when I say, this three-day shopping event will put you in the spirit. Imagine a working farm transformed into a vintage Christmas wonderland by the American Pickers guys or Fixer Upper stars Chip and Joanna Gaines— and everything is for sale. Barns, corn cribs, outbuildings, and hay sheds are creatively transformed into miniature shops filled with folk art, antiques, primitives, tattered treasures, reclaimed furniture, shabby chic decor, handmade jewelry, and steampunk tchotchkes. There’s even a restaurant, The Feed Sack, to keep you fueled during your shopping adventure. This 20-year-old event, originally known as Christmas at the Cabin, was founded by Joyce McCune, Deb Umble, and Deb McCort. It started in Pennsylvania but, by 2015, had outgrown its original venue. Then Brenda Street, who had been a vendor at the show for three years, offered her farm outside Masontown, West Virginia, as a possible location. “I told everyone they could try our farm, but I warned them that it’s pretty rural,” Street says. “And it is really rural. We were worried but operated on the premise, ‘If we build it, they will come.’ We sure are glad they came.” Anytime a tried-and-true event changes location, you risk the chance of losing devotees. But the move to B.R. Farms proved a good decision. That first year, around 4,000 people made the trek to Masontown over three days. “We were tickled to provide the venue,” Street says. “We worked really hard all summer to make the farm more shoppable. We cleaned the barns, put up shelving, built a farmers’ market around an old box trailer, painted walls, and strung hundreds of lights.” 24 wvl • fall 2017

Work on each year’s show begins immediately after the previous one is completed. Vendors, who are juried by a committee to ensure a diverse collection, begin taking items to the farm and setting up six weeks before opening day. This group of creative souls, decorators, antique collectors, artists, craftspeople, and pickers fill the farm with a wide range of one-of-a-kind items. You’ll find unexpected treasures like a mounted turquoise deer, oversized floor candelabras, and vintage signs. There’s a shed filled to the brim with only white items—from milk glass and painted Victorian furniture to shabby chic chandeliers and distressed benches. There’s artwork, antique tools, and stained glass. And everything is thoughtfully curated and staged. You won’t leave emptyhanded. And don’t be surprised if you return again and again with a friend or two. At night, Christmas at the Barn feels even more magical. The farm twinkles

with Christmas lights, candlelit luminaries, and holiday music. People gather around an outdoor fire pit to warm their hands. It’s like the living version of a Norman Rockwell illustration. The event is expanding for 2017. “We are going bigger and better,” Street says. “We are adding an additional building and trying to have everything under cover so, if the weather is bad, you don’t have to stand in rain. We are adding more antiques and flea market finds, and we have someone who is doing pallet art. We also have a new dessert vendor—Modern Homestead of Reedsville is going to provide seasonal desserts in the Sugar Shack.” Getting to the farm is half the fun. But be forewarned—it is a bit of a jaunt on a

very rough country road that is often one lane. Bring the four-wheel drive. Follow the directions on the website. Don’t follow Google’s directions or GPS, or you just might end up in Texas. There is signage, but you will think you are going in the wrong direction. About the time you decide to turn around, know this: You are almost there. If driving on narrow country roads makes you nervous, go during the day. And leave the credit cards at home; only cash and checks are accepted. The 2017 show will take place on Thursday, November 2, noon to 9 p.m.; Friday, November 3, noon to 9 p.m., and Saturday, November 4, 10 a.m. to 8 p.m. 7268 Herring Road, Masontown, christmasatthebarn.com, “Christmas at the Barn” on Facebook wvliving.com 25

discover ››

Knit-working SHOP

Bluefield Yarn Company proves that niche retail is important to revitalizing small towns.

karen rideout’s charming little shop has everything you’d expect from a community yarn store. The shelves are lined with hundreds of skeins of yarn in rainbow hues and varied textures. In one corner, you’ll find cute Binkwaffle dumpling bags and needle rolls. In another, a display of shawl pins and buttons. If you are looking for knitting needles, there are bamboo varieties and metal varieties and even circular varieties, in addition to a range of crochet 26 wvl • fall 2017

hooks. There are patterns, kits, and instructional books and magazines. You’ll find everything you need to craft that special scarf or blanket or sweater or sock. But the Bluefield Yarn Company offers so much more. It’s a special gathering place—a place where people come together not only to knit and crochet, but to unwind, connect, and build friendships. And as any knitter knows, knitting is cheaper than therapy. Rideout loves

the community-building aspect of her business. “I hold Stitch Nights every month,” she explains. “People bring projects they are working on and socialize. You may share ideas, or you may not talk about anything related to knitting or crocheting. It brings people together. They come here to meet other people who are like them and share similar interests.” Rideout, who goes to conferences to learn new techniques to share with her customers, also holds skill-building classes. “Classes are confidence builders,” she says. “One of the things I love about being a shop owner is that I can still be a teacher and an educator and a learner at the same time. I’m not just sitting in my shop all day waiting on people to buy yarn.” Knitting and crocheting are tactile arts— the colors, smells, and textures of the yarn are important—so Rideout started Yarn Tasting events. Don’t worry, no one’s putting anything in their mouths. But they do come to try different types and textures and weights of yarns. “The Yarn Tastings are a great way to try different things that you haven’t tried, before making a big investment,” she says. As online shopping options are gobbling up the retail industry, Bluefield Yarn Company isn’t feeling threatened. “You can get great deals on yarn online, but you can’t touch it, match colors, feel how it drapes, or see what the fibers are doing,” Rideout says. “At the shop, you can collaborate. If you make a mistake, you can learn how to fix it. You can’t get that online. Knitters and crocheters like to interact with the yarn.” You can see that interaction as soon as someone steps into the shop. The first thing everyone does after walking in the door is to stop and take it all in—the vibrant colors and patterns. Then they walk around the shop, feeling the skeins, smelling them, and unwinding them to feel the fibers. The Bluefield Yarn Company proudly carries local products. “There’s an Alpaca farmer in Bluefield, Virginia, that spins yarn from her Alpacas. I carry her yarn. I also carry Appalachian Baby, a company out of Maxwelton, that has patterns, kits, and cotton yarns all for babies.” Rideout and her shop have knitted themselves into the fabric of Bluefield. “I just love Bluefield,” she says. “I love the mountains, the seasons, and especially the people. Everybody is very giving and always trying to make things better for others. It is a beautiful, beautiful place to live.” And now, it is a beautiful place to shop. written and photographed by nikki

bowman

H ANGO U T S

Kirsten Wyatt

kirsten wyatt is an award-winning actress who has performed on Broadway, in theaters around the country, and on television. She’s appeared in nine Broadway shows—most recently as villainess Lily St. Regis in Annie. Her TV credits include Blue Bloods, Naked Brothers Band, As the World Turns, and All My Children. Wyatt is also a proud Clarksburg native, so WV Living asked for her favorite hometown haunts:

➀ BRIDGEPORT FARMERS MARKET When I am at home, this is one of my mustvisits. The market is full of local farmers 28 wvl • fall 2017

selling their freshest produce and meat and local artisans selling their one-of-a-kind wares. Plus there’s live music and food demos. It’s a great way to get nutritious food and support the West Virginia economy.

➁ THE WONDER BAR I have traveled around the world and eaten at five-star restaurants. But the truth is, I’ve never had a better steak than at The Wonder Bar. Not only is the steak delicious, but the service is wonderful, and I love the atmosphere. And did I mention the steak? Now I’m hungry! ➂ RIVERSONG SPA I never miss an opportunity to make an appointment here when I’m visiting home. Allison Clem, the owner, has made it her mission to make sure we all take time for ourselves. I like to do that by indulging in her Holistic Signature Facial, which always leaves me feeling refreshed and rejuvenated. And I love supporting a female-owned small business.

CARLA WITT FORD, COURTESY OF THE STICK COMPANY, COURTESY OF RIVERSONG SPA

discover ››

Taste NO MEAL IS COMPLE TE WITHOUT A GOOD STORY

Treat Yourself CARLA WITT FORD

Pasta. Pizza. Fine wines. Locally owned restaurants where quality is king. You deserve it. PICTURED: GET OUR RECIPE FOR THESE DELECTABLE STUFFED SHELLS, PAGE 41

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taste ›› maker

The Good Stuff Dominick Cerrone has turned a Wheeling landmark into a food lovers’ haven. written by pam

kasey bowman

photographed by nikki

stop at the L.S. Good mansion reminds a visitor of old Wheeling’s wealth and refinement. Built in 1905 by the prominent downtown department store owner and philanthropist, the townhouse features a three-story stairwell atrium, 28 stained glass panels, parquet floors, and lush woodwork throughout. It’s also a mouth-watering introduction to the refinement of today’s Wheeling. For the past 11 years, the Good mansion has hosted Good Mansion Wines, a top destination for foodies in the tri-state region. Proprietor Dominick Cerrone tells the shop’s origin story as a series of accidents. An engineer by trade, he was living in East Wheeling in 2003 when the mansion came up for sale in his neighborhood. He made a lowball offer without any real intentions and, to his surprise, his offer was accepted. He found the stately interior intact and mainly just had to do some work on the mechanical systems to bring it up to date. Still, he had no real use for the mansion. Then one day in 2006, he and friends were lamenting the lack of a comprehensive wine seller in Wheeling, and he came to think his mansion might make a good wine shop. “The state wholesalers had a pretty handsome selection of wines, largely because of the demand at The Greenbrier, most of which had no exposure here in the northern part of the state,” he says. “I realized I could bring something new to market.” He opened Good Mansion Wines in 2006. Good Mansion’s wine selection is more European-focused than the typical California-centric American wine store. “My shop probably represents a more international palate—we’ve been told by importers who visit that we have the most comprehensive selection of Italian wines in the whole mid30 wvl • fall 2017

Atlantic region,” says Cerrone. “We have over 500 varieties.” It’s not just because his parents came over from Italy. In Cerrone’s view, Italian and French wines are the most versatile. “I’m not a sipper. I think it’s best to appreciate wine with food,” he says. “Something reactive happens that’s greater than the sum of the parts. You don’t understand a wine until you understand its reactive potential with fats and sauces and other components.” German and Spanish wines round out the shop’s Old World offerings, and there’s a good selection of New World wines, too, including wines made in West Virginia. Good Mansion offers wines for every occasion and pocketbook, with its wide selection and price range. “We have lots of expensive wines, and the interior can be intimidating, like a museum, but customers can also get their $10 favorites here,” Cerrone says. The shop also educates customers’ palates through Friday night tastings that he started soon after he opened—a new theme

every week, no reservation required. “We make a great effort to expose customers to wines that your average consumer would not have access to or ever think of purchasing,” he says. The shop’s customer base has become more sophisticated over time. “We have regulars now who, when we’re busy, they’ll just cut loose and help other customers on the floor. It’s a real family. And I can probably say that we’ve really changed consumers’ tastes over the years.” Like Cerrone, Good Mansion’s customers like to experience wine with food. Over years of tastings, they kept asking for cheese, and eventually he started offering imported cheeses. “We now have 100 varieties, the complete anthology of European cheese.” His selection has grown to rival the popular cheese room at Pennsylvania Macaroni Company in Pittsburgh’s Strip District, he says, and includes some cheeses that aren’t available even there. Then he got into salumi—cured meats, both imported and domestic—so, since 2014,

maker ‹‹ taste Over the past decade, Good Mansion Wines has filled its elegant space with an increasingly complete selection of wines, charcuterie,

Good Mansion has offered an extensive charcuterie. Why stop there? “Everybody loved that so much that the natural extension was more imported food products. We got into it because the availability of good Italian products is so sparse.” Here he talks about that rumor so many of us have heard: that the mafia controls the distribution of Italian specialty foods, and that the Italian products Americans have access to are low-grade industrial versions. “I’m in Italy often, meeting with people, and I started importing foods from small family producers,” Cerrone says. “These are truly 100 percent artisanal foods from families that are rooted to their land for many generations. They’re growing and producing in a tight food chain, very, very good quality products that are awarded and written up by Italian food media. Some products, we’re the first U.S. importer, and that’s something you don’t see in Pittsburgh.” Even the shops in Strip District, known for

specialties imported directly from small Italian producers, authentic fresh-baked French breads and pastries, and sandwiches.

But what Cerrone and his staff have learned about flours and bread raises interesting questions. “When you use the mother yeast, that’s the sourdough, and the flour that’s intended for baguettes—flour is a much more precise science and passion in France—the yeast is providing probiotic benefits, and you’re reducing glycemic spikes.” He wonders if the pesticides used on American wheat fields and additives like folic acid in American flours might contribute to what we call gluten sensitivity. In any case, his breads have won a following. “We introduced the most pure, elemental French baguette and we sell hundreds every week.” That baguette serves as the basis for Good Mansion’s long list of sandwiches made from the charcuterie: sandwiches like Le Parisien, with Creminelli prosciutto cotto and Normandy butter, or El Manchego, with Serrano ham, aged manchego cheese, olive oil, and greens. “We feature six of our sandwiches every day, with different salumi and cheese from France, Italy, and Spain on our baguettes,” Cerrone says. “They’re fantastic.” Also coming out of Good Mansion’s kitchen these days are pastas, quiches, and fresh sausages. They bake a range of pastries— French croissants and palmiers, Swiss brioche, and others—and serve those up alongside Italian coffee. Visitors from larger cities across the U.S. tell Cerrone there’s no shop where they live that sells its wide range of specialty Italian products, the variety and quality Good Mansion Wines don’t import directly, he says—they buy from offers in a city of 27,000. “In their defense, it’s U.S. importers that get their goods from larger producers. Good Mansion’s inventory of top-shelf our small market that has allowed for this kind of diversity in one shop,” he says. “If I had a wine products includes internationally awarded olive oils, traditional balsamic vinegars, regional pastas, shop in New York City, why would I bother making bread or selling cheese? The market here sweet panettone and pandoro loaves, truffles and truffled product, specialty condiments, and more. has kind of forced us to be innovative and do the whole 360 experience.” All of that, of course, just begged to be Good Mansion’s ongoing expansion accompanied by bread. “We did a kitchen continues next with a meal kit service. “We’ve addition and put in French bread ovens back got so many foods we want to help people feel there,” Cerrone says. “We got trained in comfortable using—regional foods, traditional breadmaking, and we buy imported French staples in good Italian grocery stores,” Cerrone flours.” says. “The Good Mansion Wine Supper Club It’s hard to imagine that an authentic French is an opportunity for us to push our imported bread could be a hard sell, but he has found that products with a recipe and a story about the American dietary preferences can be grounded foods, and we’ll be working with local produce in strong beliefs. “People are afraid to death of carbohydrates. They’re going on gluten-free kicks and meat sources where we need those things.” Look for that in the fall of 2017. 95-14th Street, and trying to eliminate breads from their diets, just when we’re saying, ‘Let’s perfect bread—this 304.233.2632, goodmansionwines.com, “Good Mansion Wines” on Facebook newly declared evil in people’s lives,’” he laughs.

LOOK TWICE

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taste ›› libations

Stomp the Weekend Away Kirkwood Winery encourages visitors to kick off their shoes during the Grape Stomping Wine Festival. uppercue

he Grape Stomping Wine Festival celebrated its 26th year of food, fun, and wine this September 16 and 17. The event, located at the Kirkwood Winery in Summersville, encourages visitors to take off their shoes and jump into the grape stomping pit. Those looking for a bit of competition can compete in a grape eating contest or the stomping contest, where each winner is awarded a medal. “You just have to get barefoot and stomp grapes all day and bring a lawn chair to come and enjoy the music,” says Brenda Morris, who organizes the weekend of fun. In addition to the grape stomping fun, visitors can enjoy the many local country and bluegrass bands that will play throughout the two-day event, including the Davisson Brothers and The Band Wagon. Performers such as the American Cloggers and the X-Quisite Dance Team also will be onstage. Brenda Morris and her husband have managed Kirkwood Winery and the Grape Stomping Festival for the past 11 years. People from at least 19 states attended the festival last year. “Everyone just seems to have a really good time,” she says. The Morrises handed the winery over to new owners Frank and Elizabeth Dix earlier this year, but the party goes on. Ticket prices range depending on visitors’ ages. Those over 21 pay $15, while guests from the ages of 12 through 20 pay $5. Children under 12 enter for free. In addition to the festival, visitors receive free tours of the Kirkwood Winery and the distillery located on site. Guests—those who are 21 and over, anyway—can taste various wines during the tour and even get a free, full glass of their favorite. 45 Winery Lane, Summersville, 304.872.7332, kirkwood-wine.com, @kirkwoodwinerywv on Facebook

32 wvl • fall 2017

COURTESY OF KIRKWOOD WINERY

written by kristen

The Market & Chessie’s on the Square ‹‹ taste

Eating on the Square Hinton has become a dining destination with two unique restaurants. written and photographed by nikki

bowman

here are many reasons to visit Hinton: a charming historic downtown, outdoor recreation on the New River, a hub for railroad enthusiasts, and close proximity to both Sandstone Falls and Pipestem Resort State Park. But two unexpected— yet equally deserving—reasons are The Market on Courthouse Square and Chessie’s on the Square. Both businesses are owned by MountainPlex, a company dedicated to the restoration and sustainability of the Hinton Historic District. Under the guidance of Chef Kevin Hall, who before taking over as the culinary services manager previously worked at The Greenbrier and Tavern 1785, and executive Chef Sam Hall, who worked as the executive chef at Stella’s in Lewisburg before joining the team, these restaurants are drawing people from near and far. Located in the heart of downtown, The Market on Courthouse Square has been dishing out gourmet sandwiches, creative burgers, fresh salads, and popular brick oven pizzas since it opened in 2010. Try the Market Meatball Sub, served on a baguette and topped with marinara sauce and melted mozzarella cheese, or the Fireman Cuban Panini, served with sliced roast beef, black forest ham, Swiss cheese, spicy mustard, and dill pickles. The Locomotive Panini— grilled chicken breast, pesto mayonnaise, provolone cheese, tomato, lettuce, and onions—is another favorite. wvliving.com 33

taste ›› The Market & Chessie’s on the Square have become popular dining destinations in Hinton.

You can’t go wrong with any of the Whistle Stop Salads, and the brick oven pizzas can hold their own with the best in the state. The Loaded Market Pizza is piled high with fresh toppings on the restaurant’s signature red sauce. But if you are in the mood for something different, try the Appalachian Pizza: a garlic white sauce-based pizza topped with spinach, country salt-cured ham, blue cheese, West Virginia maple-glazed walnuts, and fresh Granny Smith apples. And make sure you save room for dessert. Answering the demand for a fine dining option in Hinton, in fall 2016 MountainPlex opened Chessie’s on the Square in a building adjoining The Market. Custom sepia murals depicting historic Hinton scenes line the walls, and the unique menu features Appalachian-inspired fare, like the Grilled Pork Chop—a 10-ounce apple cider–brined pork chop served with a ramp chimichurri sauce, roasted garlic mashed potatoes, and vegetable du jour. Or opt for Chef Chris’s Andouille Encrusted Catfish, which is served with a crawfish cream sauce, rice pilaf, and vegetable du jour. At only $20 each, these mouthwatering and beautifully displayed dishes would easily go for twice the amount in a larger city. The Barbeque Shrimp and Grits and the Beef Tenderloin are also popular with regulars. For dessert, try the Sweet Potato Pie, a Southern classic served with candied walnuts and salted caramel sauce and topped with fresh whipped cream and mint. There’s also the Appalachian Bread Pudding, a twist on classic bread pudding made with cornbread, golden raisins, and buttermilk, served with a maple crème anglaise and topped with fresh whipped cream, mint, and candied walnuts. Customers’ perennial favorite, though, is Chessie’s New York–style cheesecake. When you find your way to Hinton, give one—or both—of these restaurants a try. Don’t be surprised if this charming town beckons you again and again. The Market on Courthouse Square, 200 Ballengee Street, 304.466.6626, themarketwv.com, “Market on Courthouse Square” on Facebook; Chessie’s on the Square, 405 Second Avenue, 304.466.2598, chessieswv.com, “Chessie’s on the Square” on Facebook

COURTESY OF MOUNTAINPLEX (2), NIKKI BOWMAN

The Market on Courthouse Square and Chessie’s on the Square

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taste ›› Pizzas and Cream

Finding Nebo

each, or try one of their Pizzas & Cream has put Nebo on the specialty pizzas like map with its freshly Meat and Merlot or Hot handcrafted pizzas and Hawaiian BBQ. homemade gelato. Pizza connoisseurs are flocking to Pizzas & Cream, a tiny You can take your treasure tucked away in Clay County. pizza to go or grab a seat at one of the picnic tables re you ready for a culinary Stephen, built an outdoor wood-fired oven and enjoy the country setting. Where else can surprise in one of the most after a trip to Italy. It started as a surprise for you enjoy pizza while free-range chickens strut unexpected places? Hop in Ed’s wife, Joy, but crafting the perfect pizza around your table? It’s no mistake Pizzas & the car and head to Nebo. Yes, in the oven soon became a dogged pursuit. Cream was chosen as one of the state tourism Nebo, a teeny unincorporated By 2015, they decided to take their hobby to department’s 101 Most Unique Places to Dine. town in Clay County. Take exit 40 off Interstate the next level, enclosed the brick oven in a Don’t leave without dessert. I repeat: Don’t 79 and drive north on West Virginia Route 16 building, and opened a business. They added leave without dessert. The gelato is to die until you see the large sign for Pizzas & Cream, homemade Italian ice, gelato, and ice cream to for, the butter pecan ice cream is divine. And pointing you down a gravel country road. You their menu of artisan pizzas, put some picnic nothing beats the tangy strawberry or lemon may hesitate a minute, but turn anyway. On tables on the lawn, and were off and running. Italian ice on a hot day. the left, you’ll see a simple house with picnic For the past two years people from all over Pizzas & Cream is open Tuesday through tables in the yard. The gravel driveway is a the state have made their way to Pizzas & Saturday from 4 to 10 p.m. 133 Nebo Walker parking lot. Pull in. Tucked behind the house is Cream, and leave raving about their creations. Road, 304.286.2985, “Pizzas & Cream” on what may be the smallest pizzeria in the state. The crisp but perfectly chewy dough sets Facebook Inside you’ll find a darling family, the the stage for creative and fresh toppings. Millers. Ed Miller, along with his son The pizzas begin at $10 with toppings at $1 written and photographed by nikki bowman

36 wvl • fall 2017

wvliving.com 37

town ‹‹ taste

Savor Shepherdstown One of West Virginia’s oldest towns is home to some of its hippest eateries. There are many reasons to visit the historic college town of Shepherdstown, one of which is the collection of restaurants that line German Street and its environs. You’ll find everything from Mexican to German cuisine, from vegetarian offerings to freshly baked desserts. In fact, there are so many options, you’ll need to stay several days just to experience them all. Here are a few of our favorites. written and photographed by nikki

bowman

Blue Moon Café 200 East High Street, 304.876.1920 @bluemoonwv on Facebook

Maria’s Taqueria 108 East German Street, 304.876.3333 @mariasshepherdstown on Facebook

For a variety of vegetarian options, Blue Moon Café is your go-to place for sandwiches, soups, and salads made from locally sourced produce. Try the Kimster, Philly Shroom, or Crab Cake sandwiches, or opt for the quiche of the day. The salads are always fresh and topped with delectable homemade dressings.

If you are looking for a new spin on burritos and tacos made with the freshest ingredients, Maria’s Taqueria is the place to eat. Try the outof-this-world Maria’s Chimi. The fish tacos are also a local favorite, and no meal is complete without the fried plantains.

The Press Room 129 West German Street, 304.876.8777 “The Press Room” on Facebook

Shepherdstown Sweet Shop Bakery 100 West German Street, 304.876.2432 @shepherdstownsweetshop on Facebook wvbakery.com

Make dinner reservations well in advance for this well-loved Shepherdstown institution. You’ll find an extensive offering of seafood dishes like calamari, scallops, soft shell crab, and oysters on the half shell. The steaks and lamb are equally divine.

This bakery is a must-stop. The warm, yeasty aroma of its specialty breads will attack your senses as soon as you step in the door. And then there are the cakes, cookies, tarts, cheesecakes, pies, donuts, and a wide array of fine pastries. You won’t be able to leave without one of their massive cupcakes.

The Bavarian Inn 164 Shepherd Grade Road, 304.876.2551 bavarianinnwv.com The Bavarian Inn offers more than just charming guest rooms in German chalets. It boasts several dining options that serve German and American gourmet fare as well as a wonderful breakfast and brunch menu. Try the Bavarian Sauerbraten, Wienerschnitzel, and the crab cakes in The Hunt Room. For a casual dining experience reminiscent of a European pub, go downstairs to the Rathskeller.

Domestic 117 East German Street, 304.876.1030 wvdomestic.com This fun and eclectic restaurant has a fabulous bar serving creative cocktails, beer, and wine. Their lunch and dinner menu includes items like Glazed + Confused—a burger served on a glazed donut bun—and entrees like Shrimp and Grits and Blackened Catfish.

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EAT + DRINK + BE LO CA L |

this ‹‹ taste

Primo

A good plate of pasta is a lot like the music of Frank Sinatra—it’s a foolproof way to make even the simplest gathering both classy and relaxed at the same time. So get that water boiling, and make sure it’s plenty salty. We’ve collected four of our favorite pasta recipes, perfect for your next big dinner with friends or family. Just crack open a bottle of wine, drop the needle on your favorite Rat Pack record, and dig in. zack harold photographed and styled by carla witt ford written by

These delectable pasta dishes will steal the show on any table.

taste ›› this

Tuscan Pasta Salad 1 pound bowtie pasta, cooked, rinsed in cold water, and drained 1 7-ounce jar sun-dried tomatoes in oil, drained 1 red bell pepper, diced ¾ cup sliced black or green olives 1 cup spinach ¼ cup basil leaves, chopped ½ cup grated Parmesan cheese dressing

¾ cup olive oil 2 tablespoons white vinegar 2 tablespoons water 1 teaspoon salt 1 teaspoon sugar 1 teaspoon dry oregano 1 teaspoon dry basil 1 teaspoon garlic black pepper to taste 1. In a large bowl combine pasta, sun-dried tomatoes, bell pepper, olives, spinach, basil, and parmesan cheese. Toss until combined.

2. In a small bowl whisk olive oil, vinegar,

water, salt, sugar, oregano, basil, garlic, and pepper. Drizzle over the pasta salad and serve.

Stuffed Shells (pictured on page 29) 8 ounces jumbo pasta shells 30 ounces whole-milk ricotta cheese ½ cup grated Romano cheese 2 tablespoons minced fresh parsley 8 leaves fresh basil, chopped 1 large egg 8 ounces Parmesan, grated 2 jars marinara sauce 8 ounces mozzarella cheese, grated Salt and pepper to taste 42 wvl • fall 2017

1. Preheat oven to 350°.

4. Coat the bottom of a baking dish with a little marinara sauce. Fill each half-cooked 2. Bring a large pot of salted water to boil. shell with cheese mixture and place fillingAdd pasta shells and cook for half the listed side-up on sauce. Repeat with remaining cooking time on the package; make sure not cheese mixture. Top shells with remaining to overcook. Drain and rinse in cool water. sauce. Sprinkle on mozzarella and extra Set aside. Parmesan. 3. In a bowl, mix together ricotta, Romano, parsley, basil, egg, salt and pepper, and half 5. Bake until cheese is bubbly, 25 minutes. the Parmesan. Stir until combined.

this ‹‹ taste

Pasta with Pesto, Potatoes, and Green Beans

1 pound dried pasta (linguine or spaghetti) 1. In a large pot of salted boiling water, boil pasta, potatoes, 5 ounces medium-sized Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut and green beans until pasta is al dente and potatoes and green into ¾-inch cubes beans are very tender. Drain, reserving 1 cup cooking water, 4 ounces fresh green beans (about 20), stems trimmed and cut and transfer pasta, potatoes, and green beans to a large bowl. into 1-inch lengths on a bias 2. Add pesto sauce to pasta along with ¼ cup pasta cooking 1 8-ounce jar pesto sauce water. Toss well to emulsify pesto and pasta water into a Extra virgin olive oil, for drizzling creamy sauce. Add more pasta water, 1 tablespoon at a time as Grated Parmigiano-Reggiano needed, if pasta is too dry. Drizzle in fresh olive oil if desired. salt 3. Serve with Parmigiano-Reggiano on the side.

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taste ›› this

Pasta with Ricotta and Zucchini 2 tablespoons olive oil 1 small onion, sliced thin 1 ½ pounds zucchini, finely diced (about 4 cups) 1 pound penne rigate pasta 1 ¼ cups whole milk ricotta ½ cup freshly grated Parmigiano- Reggiano, plus more for serving Salt and pepper to taste

2. Add diced zucchini, season with salt and pepper, and cover pan. Leave lid on and let zucchini cook over low heat for 15 minutes.

3. Bring a pot of salted water to boil.

4. After 15 minutes, remove lid from pan and raise heat to medium-high. Saute, stirring frequently until liquid has evaporated. Do not overcook zucchini.

1. In a heavy-bottomed saucepan, heat olive oil 5. Cook penne rigate pasta in boiling water until al dente. Drain and add to pot with over medium-low heat. Add onion and saute zucchini. until transparent.

6. Toss pasta and zucchini together in pot and add ricotta and Parmigiano-Reggiano. Gently fold ingredients together until cheeses are evenly distributed. 7. Serve hot. Sprinkle with remaining Parmigiano-Reggiano to taste.

Live

E XPLORING THIS E X TRAORDINARY PL ACE WE CALL HOME

Farm Use

The land feeds more than just the body. Sometimes it feeds the soul, too. CARLA WITT FORD

PICTURED: BARN WITH INN, PAGE 57

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Room to Grow

Jacob’s Ladder recovery farm in Preston County overcomes the instant gratification of drugs through experience with slower satisfactions. written by pam

kasey bowman

photographed by nikki

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im struggles with addiction. Alcohol, mainly, but also cocaine, heroin, and whatever’s available. But he’s motivated: He wants to get custody of his two young daughters. He finished a successful six months at the Jacob’s Ladder recovery farm in Preston County in 2016. Eager to be near his daughters, he resisted the advice to give himself some distance from old patterns and temptations, and moved back to Morgantown without a support system in place. It didn’t go well. “He busted his butt without a car, walking, putting in applications, trying to get a job, but he’s got a felony record so no one would hire him,” says Jacob’s Ladder founder and CEO Dr. Kevin Blankenship. Not surprisingly, Tim—not his real name—fell into depression and ended up using again. Blankenship invited him to return to the farm As one of Jacob’s Ladder’s “failures”—you can hear the air quotes in Blankenship’s voice—Tim is helping to refine this pioneering treatment program’s understanding of what works and what doesn’t.

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everywhere could claim only moderate success, he learned. “Most of the programs in this A West Virginian by birth and an emergency country are 30 days, not because 30 days works medical doctor by training, Blankenship but because that’s what insurance companies was a co-founder in 2001 of the enormously have agreed to pay for. And most of them successful Morgantown-based urgent care chain depend almost entirely on the 12-step model,” MedExpress. He served as its chief operating he says. “But most programs, if they’ll even talk officer until he left there in 2009. But his life about numbers, they’re only 10 to 15 percent took a turn when a brother-in-law died from successful after a year. The relapse rate is huge.” alcohol and opiate abuse earlier this decade and His son’s experience at the six-month then his own son struggled with addiction. Back2Basics Outdoor Adventure Recovery “People are dying and they need help, and I program in Flagstaff, Arizona, influenced don’t think we’ve completely figured out how Blankenship’s thinking. “I felt strongly to help them,” he says. “I had to step back and that we needed to be a six-month program, figure out what I wanted to do to effect change, because I saw it work for him.” not only for my son but for everyone else who’s Recent brain science influenced his thinking, out there struggling. And for West Virginia.” too. “Only maybe 20 years ago, the medical He spent more than a year reading community was convinced that you’re born with everything he could about addiction, going to so many brain cells and you can never improve conferences, listening to the best minds on the upon that,” he says. But neuroplasticity research topic—looking for a way to flip the state from showed him that, not only can people form new the leader in overdose deaths to the leader in a brain cells, they can form millions of new brain compassionate and effective solution. cell connections. “These guys, when they’re Even before the flood of opioids overwhelmed using, they’re used to living in the moment, West Virginia’s addiction treatment facilities making decisions that affect the next couple over the past decade, treatment models here and hours of their lives. Their futures—job, school,

Rethinking treatment

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work, family—their brains don’t work that way anymore.” He came to think that people who have gotten trapped in addiction could lay down new neural pathways through the lived experience of investing in the future and garnering the eventual reward—an experience farmers live hands-on. “Plant something today, reap the benefits in a couple months. Raise this animal, slaughter it in a couple years. If we can combine that type of thinking with the appropriate amount of time away from their other activities, we can make a difference.” He opened Jacob’s Ladder in April 2016 as a six-month recovery farm unlike any other longterm treatment facility in the state, or possibly anywhere. There are beds for 14 men and about a dozen staff, more than half of whom are well into their own recoveries and have been trained in peer recovery coaching. The setting—the turn-of-the-20th-century Brookside Inn resort at Aurora in Preston County, now an expansive family farm that partners with and leases facilities to Jacob’s Ladder—works as a peaceful retreat a little over an hour’s drive from Buckhannon, Clarksburg, Morgantown, and Cumberland, Maryland.

Learning to live life again

The daily routine at Jacob’s Ladder focuses on mindfulness and everyday tasks. Residents start their weekdays with breakfast at 7 a.m., says

Outreach Manager Joey Ferguson, a staff member in recovery himself. They split into two groups at 8 o’clock for yoga and meditation, switching at 9. Afterward the men work on the farm, tending leafy rows of everything from tomatoes to sweet potatoes to watermelon, weeding the rich soil by hand. They care for 300 chickens as well as sheep, pigs, and beefalo. “They’re getting their hands dirty, planting seeds, pulling up weeds, and then when they get the vegetable and they’re cutting it up in the kitchen, they can appreciate it,” Ferguson says. They devote time to music, art, and reading, and prepare meals together, with lunch served at noon and dinner in the early evening. Days are simple and ordered. “A lot of these guys are 18 to 25—their addiction grabbed hold of them in their teen years. You get clean and have to learn how to live life again.” At least four evenings a week, the men are bussed after dinner to 12-step meetings in Clarksburg, Morgantown, and other surrounding towns—both for the fellowship and to experience as many recovery communities as possible. Then it’s lights out at 10:30, with a more relaxed schedule on weekends. Several times a month they travel as a group on outdoor adventures. “We were whitewater rafting as a team-building exercise the day of the solar eclipse,” Ferguson says. “When the eclipse was happening, we got to kick back and watch. A lot of these guys have never done anything like that.” A year-plus in operation in the summer of 2017, Jacob’s Ladder had graduated 16 men, two of whom had relapsed, including Tim. “I was heartbroken rather than surprised,” Blankenship says. Both had chosen to return directly to their home communities. “What I learned more than anything is that these guys can’t go back where they came from immediately.” He invited both men back into the program. And he acted on that painful lesson by opening a sober living house in Westover, just across the river from Morgantown, in the summer of 2017. There, residents can strengthen their new “long-term payoff” neural pathways by transitioning into working life in a structured, staffed home setting. The second chance was working out for Tim. “He’s at sober living now, and he just got a job with a trucking company yesterday,” Blankenship said in August. “He

spent this past weekend with his girls, and he’s working his butt off to get his family back together.”

Meeting the need

Although it’s operating in the state with the highest overdose rate in the nation, Jacob’s Ladder is not as overwhelmed with applicants as one might expect. “Even if we say, ‘Come on in, we’re here for you,’ nine times out of 10 that person doesn’t come,” Blankenship says. “It’s so much more real than, ‘OK Mom, I’ll do a 30-day program to get you off my back.’ For someone struggling with addiction, a six-month commitment is a lifetime.” There’s also the question of money. In order to continue working nimbly with residents, Jacob’s Ladder doesn’t take health insurance. It asks families to pay and makes some allowance for financial circumstances. Ferguson continually works to expand his referral network for those who apply but aren’t a good fit. But for those who are a good fit and are ready to make that commitment, no place sounds better. “A young man contacted us from prison about eight months ago and said he needed to find a program,” Blankenship recalls. Jacob’s Ladder didn’t have a bed available at the moment and, although the prison would have released him to any treatment facility, he held out. “He stayed in prison an additional month and a half waiting for a bed to open in our program. He graduates next weekend and he’s a wonderful young man. That’s the kind of commitment we see in the men who choose to come here.” Another reason Blankenship liked a farm model for his program is that, since it leverages West Virginia’s assets, it can be replicated across the state. “We have a tremendous amount of resources and wonderful people in the farming communities. I’d ultimately like to have three, four, five of these around the state so we can provide these services for more young people.” He’s working to refine the model and demonstrate a good track record, then plans to raise money to scale the operation up. One of the biggest lessons Blankenship has taken from this experience gives hope for the future of West Virginia, once the state turns this crisis around. “The best people I’ve met in my life I’ve met in the past couple years, people who are recovering,” he says. “Because to get to that point, you have to dig down deep and examine yourself way more closely than you or I have done. They’re some of the most enlightened, humble, appreciative people you’ll ever meet, and all they want to do is live good lives and help other people live good lives.” jacobsladderbrookside.com wvliving.com 49

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who’s the best of west virginia?

West Virginia is a place of best-kept secrets—those restaurants, artists, and hideaways that only locals know. But we want to spread the word! Nominate your favorites in each of the categories below—including the brand-new categories we’ve added for 2017— and your hometown favorite might be named in this year’s Best of West Virginia, coming in the winter issue. The top contenders will move on to a second round of voting.

SUBMIT YOUR BALLOT BY OCTOBER 18, 2017

Best Pepperoni Roll Best Pizza

DRINK

vote online @ wvliving.com/bowv WANT TO MAIL THIS TO US?

Best Brewery

NEW SOUTH MEDIA, INC. BEST OF WEST VIRGINIA 709 BEECHURST AVENUE, SUITE 14A

Best Cidery

MORGANTOWN, W V 26505

FOOD

Best Coffeehouse

Best Appalachian Cuisine

Best Distillery

Best Bakery

Best Winery

Best BBQ Joint

SHOPPING

Best Brunch Best Butcher Shop Best Farm-to-Table Restaurant Best Fine Dining Best Hamburger Best Hot Dog Best Ice Cream

Best Antique/Vintage Store Best Art Gallery Best Bookstore Best Independent Jewelry Store Best Local Furniture Store Best Local Place to Buy Men’s Apparel Best Local Place to Buy Women’s Apparel

Best Italian Restaurant

Best Place to Buy WV-Made Products

Best Maple Syrup

Best Unique Boutique

➼

BEST TOWN

Best Addiction Recovery Resource

Best Adventure Town

Best Charity

Best Hidden Gem Town

Best Environmental Organization

Best Town for Foodies

Best Festival

Best Town for History

Best Museum

Best Town for the Arts

Best Music Venue

Best Town to Experience the Fall

Best Musician/Band

Best Town to Experience the Winter

Best Theater Company

Best Town Transformation

LODGING

PEOPLE

Best Bed & Breakfast/Inn

Best Artist

Best Boutique Hotel

Best Author

Best Campground

Best Chef

Best Resort

Best Mayor

Best Unique Place to Spend the Night

Best Media Personality

TRAVEL Best Adventure Outfitter Best Family Vacation Spot Best Place to Play Golf Best Ski Resort Best State Park/Forest Best Weekend Escape

DID WE MISS ANYTHING?

FEEL FREE TO WRITE IN YOUR OWN CATEGORIES AND CANDIDATES HERE:

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CULTURE

listings From historic houses to picturesque farms to quaint cottages, thereâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s a special place in West Virginia calling your name. Check out these extraordinary properties from around the state.

4111 Cove Point, Morgantown - $4,500,000 MLS: 10115282

Over 13,350 sq.ft. on 1.68 +/- acres, Custom-built home on the waters of Cheat Lake! One-of-a-kind multilevel with breathtaking views from every room. 6 bedroom suites, 6 boat slips, 3 jet ski docks, extensive docking & decking, indoor heated pool & lap pool, outdoor hot tub, multiple garages including RV garage & servantâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s quarters. Completely repainted inside & out, updated to reflect a new home.