Club + Resort Business September 2023

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WHEN IT COMES TO THE BEST GET RIGHT TO THE POINT

Editorial Staff For Club + Resort Business

VP EDITORIAL

Greg Sanders gsanders@wtwhmedia.com

919-945-0713

EDITOR

Rob Thomas rthomas@wtwhmedia.com 216-316-5294

SENIOR EDITOR

Phil Keren pkeren@wtwhmedia.com 216-399-9069

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Course + Grounds:

Betsy Gilliland

Design + Renovation: Pamela Brill Food + Beverage: Marilyn Odesser-Torpey

Editorial Staff For Club + Resort Chef

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL AND PROGRAMMING

Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com 412-260-9233

SENIOR EDITOR

Isabelle Gustafson igustafson@wtwhmedia.com 216-296-2041

CONTRIBUTING EDITORS

Pamela Brill

Lauren Newman

Robert Mancuso, CMC, DipWSET

Leadership Team

MANAGING DIRECTOR

Scott McCafferty smccafferty@wtwhmedia.com

CO/FOUNDER, VP SALES

Mike Emich memich@wtwhmedia.com

EVP

Marshall Matheson mmatheson@wtwhmedia.com

CFO

Ken Gradman kgradman@wtwhmedia.com

Production services

CUSTOMER SERVICE MANAGER

Stephanie Hulett shulett@wtwhmedia.com

CUSTOMER SERVICE REPRESENTATIVE

Jane Cooper jcooper@wtwhmedia.com

Creative Services

SENIOR ART DIRECTOR

Matthew Claney mclaney@wtwhmedia.com

CREATIVE DIRECTOR

Erin Canetta ecanetta@wtwhmedia.com

DIRECTOR, AUDIENCE DEVELOPMENT

Bruce Sprague bsprague@wtwhmedia.com

Sales Team

NATIONAL SALES MANAGER

Amber Dobsovic adobsovic @wtwhmedia.com 216-280-0782

BRAND LEADER

Patrick McIntyre pmcintyre@wtwhmedia.com 216-372-8112

SALES DIRECTOR

Tony Bolla tbolla@wtwhmedia.com 773-859-1107

KEY ACCOUNT MANAGER

John Petersen jpetersen@wtwhmedia.com 216-346-8790

Video Services

VIDEOGRAPHER

Garrett McCafferty gmccafferty@wtwhmedia.com

VIDEO EDITOR

Kara Singleton ksingleton@wtwhmedia.com

Digital Media/Web/Development

VP, DIGITAL MARKETING

Virginia Goulding vgoulding@wtwhmedia.com

DIGITAL MARKETING MANAGER

Taylor Meade tmeade@wtwhmedia.com

DIGITAL PRODUCTION MANAGER

Reggie Hall rhall@wtwhmedia.com

DIGITAL MEDIA SPECIALIST

Nicole Lender nlender@wtwhmedia.com

DIGITAL PRODUCTION/ MARKETING DESIGNER

Samantha King sking@wtwhmedia.com

MARKETING GRAPHIC DESIGNER

Hannah Bragg hbragg@wtwhmedia.com

WEBINAR COORDINATOR

Halle Kirsh hkirsh@wtwhmedia.com

WEBINAR COORDINATOR

Kim Dorsey kdorsey@wtwhmedia.com

DEVELOPMENT MANAGER

Dave Miyares dmiyares@wtwhmedia.com

SR. DIGITAL MEDIA MANAGER Pat Curran pcurran@wtwhmedia.com

Events

EVENTS MANAGER Jen Osborne josborne@wtwhmedia.com

EVENTS MANAGER Brittany Belko bbelko@wtwhmedia.com

EVENT MARKETING SPECIALIST

Olivia Zemanek ozemanek@wtwhmedia.com

EVENT COORDINATOR

Alexis Ferenczy aferenczy@wtwhmedia.com

Finance

CONTROLLER

Brian Korsberg bkorsberg@wtwhmedia.com

ACCOUNTS RECEIVABLE SPECIALIST

Jamila Milton jmilton@wtwhmedia.com

Club + Resort Chef Editorial Advisory Committee

James Allen, CEC Executive Chef, Blackthorn Club at the Ridges Jonesborough, Tenn.

Lance Cook, WCMC, CEC, CCA, CFBE, FMP, CFSM Executive Chef, Hammock Dunes Club Palm Coast, Fla.

K. Scott Craig, CEC, CCA, WCMC Executive Chef, Cullasaja Club Highlands, N.C.

Laura Herman, CEPC Executive Pastry Chef, Shoreacres Lake Bluff, Ill.

Vincent Horville Executive Chef, The Metropolitan Club of the City of Washington (D.C.)

Michael Matarazzo, CEC Executive Chef, Farmington CC, Charlottesville, Va.

Robert Meitzer, CEC, CCA Executive Chef, Forest Lake Club Columbia, S.C.

Tim Recher, CEC, AAC, CWX Director of Culinary Operations, Quail West G&CC Naples, Fla.

Scott Ryan, CEC, AAC, Executive Chef, The Country Club Pepper Pike, Ohio

J. Kevin Walker, CMC, AAC

As The Union League of Philadelphia celebrates the first anniversary of Marquis by Denny Santiago, the restaurant’s namesake—longtime League Chef Denny Santiago—continues a decades-long legacy of mentorship and culinary excellence.

(Photo by

Driving Growth and Retention Through Renovations

CLUB + RESORT BUSINESS capped August with a webinar on driving growth and retention through the renovation process.

A renovation of any size can disrupt the day-to-day operations at a club. Keeping members happy throughout the process isn’t always easy, but it certainly is imperative.

Coming out of the global pandemic, golf has seen a welcome resurgence. Because of the increased demands, clubs have poured millions of dollars into renovations and additions to not only retain their current members, but also attract new members.

Bill Langley CCM, CCE, Chief Operating Officer/General Manager at The Club at Quail Ridge in Boynton Beach, Fla., joined us on the webinar to discuss a series of renovations his property has undertaken in recent years, as well as what’s still to come.

C+RB reported on the club opening its $23 million clubhouse in December 2017. The 60,000-sq.-ft. facility at the Boynton Beach, Fla. property features five dining rooms, an indoor and outdoor grille room, two outdoor dining patios, a lobby, a library, new men’s and ladies’ locker rooms, a cart facility, and a larger golf shop.

Quail Ridge followed that with a redesign of the property’s South course, originally designed by Joe Lee and opened in 1974. C+RB reported in February 2019 that planned renovations included the practice area and were executed by Bobby Weed Golf Design.

In June 2022, C+RB reported that the club approved a $21.45 million renova-

tion project to include a fully renovated North course and practice facilities, a new South Turn House, a new tennis pavilion, a redesigned south entrance, and a guard house. Peacock + Lewis is helping the club reimagine high-use areas, while Fry/Straka Global Golf Design is updating the golf course.

In the midst of all this, former Editor Joe Barks wrote a feature article on the club. In the article, Langley was not entirely joking when he summarized Quail Ridge’s history as that of “a 45-year-old startup.”

Barks wrote that the most notable change when the new clubhouse opened was the increased member usage of the new dining facilities that generated a 40% first-year jump in food-and-beverage revenues, followed by another 20% in

the new clubhouse’s second season. That took the club to $4 million in annual F&B, almost all of which was la carte, and all of which was achieved without minimums.

In the webinar, Langley detailed the early process leading up to a decision to renovate, including those who were involved in the decision process and consulting with members. From finding the right design firm, to keeping members entertained during the disruption and communicating with members throughout the process … so much goes into a renovation. Oh, we certainly can’t forget staying on schedule and on budget.

And it’s not just all the work that has taken place in the past. Langley shared what’s next.

You weren’t able to watch the webinar live? No worries, you can watch it on demand and still ask questions! Just log onto clubandresortbusiness.com and scroll to Webinars under the Resources tab.

And don’t forget to register for our next webinar—Keeping Pace With Evolving Reservation Technology—scheduled for Sept. 26.

Rob Thomas rthomas@wtwhmedia.com

Because of the increased demands, clubs have poured millions of dollars into renovations and additions to not only retain their current members, but also attract new members.

Golf’s Coolness Factor Is On The Rise

DO YOU THINK GOLF is cool?

If you had asked people that question 10 years ago, I think the vast majority of respondents — even many golfers — would have said “no.” I’ve been a golfer for almost four decades and I would’ve answered “no.” I’ve always loved the game, but did I think it was cool? Nope.

Given both empirical and anecdotal evidence, it’s safe to say that many more people— including many teens and 20-somethings —believe golf is cool. This shift in perception has a lot of positive ramifications for the game, as well as the club and resort industry.

A recent piece written by Joe Beditz, CEO of the National Golf Foundation, notes the pandemic put golf into the spotlight “with many Americans discovering and rediscovering an interest in the game.”

Beditz lists multiple reasons why more people have a favorable perception of golf: the rise of many off-course venues (Topgolf, BigShots Golf, PopStroke) where golf is presented as a form of entertainment; social media; celebrities playing golf; and the game’s charitable and community impact.

In 2013, according to Beditz, “57% of words or phrases that non-golfers used to describe golf were generally unfavorable.” Now, Beditz writes that “about two out of three non-golfers perceive golf positively or at least neutrally. The incidence of negative attitudes has dropped to 37%.”

Beditz also highlights a statistic that bodes well for the future of the game: nearly 60% of golfers in the 18-to-34year-old age category think golf is “cool.” Beditz didn’t share a comparable number from 2013, but I am quite confident that

the percentage of young adult golfers who thought the game was cool 10 years ago would’ve been considerably lower. As a teenager playing golf in the 1980s and early 1990s, I guarantee that I would’ve said golf was uncool. I might’ve even called it nerdy.

Having a sizable percentage of young golfers thinking the game is cool will certainly help increase participation rates. These young golfers who see the game as cool are going to encourage friends, spouses and significant others to join them. I also think the unsaid statistic is interesting: If almost 60% of young golfers think golf is cool, that means there’s about 40% who still play the game even though they don’t perceive it as cool. As I wrote this column, I asked my 17-yearold golf-playing son if he thought golf was cool. I expected a quick “yes,” but was surprised when he hesitated and said he was “neutral” on the question of whether golf was cool. I asked my 23-year-old son the same question and he said golf is “cool now,” while noting that it was not cool when he was in high school within the last decade.

My 23-year-old and 17-year-old sons, along with my 20-year-old son, have become regular golfers during the past

two years. The four of us recently played in a scramble event together — a first for the three of them and the first such outing for me in at least a decade. They play with friends and cousins in their age group who have also taken up the game during the past two years. Weather-wise, we’ve had a terrific summer here in Ohio and it’s given them plenty of opportunities to tee it up.

All of this news should have country clubs and golf clubs excited about the upcoming years. More young people think golf is cool, but there’s plenty who play the game even though they don’t perceive it as cool. In addition, the perception of golf has improved among non-golfers, which I would say means that more of them will take up the game as the years unfold. This will help country clubs and golf clubs as they seek to attract new members. If you’re a club general manager or a head golf pro or assistant golf pro at a club, I’d love to hear your thoughts about this evolving view of golf. Feel free to share some thoughts with me at pkeren@wtwhmedia.com. Are you cool with that? Cool.

Phil Keren • Senior Editor pkeren@wtwhmedia.com

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Ask Max is a regular feature with Manon “Max” Deboer, Director of Marketing & Membership for the Club at Mediterra in Naples, Fla., a Distinguished Elite, Platinum Club inside the community of Mediterra, which has been named Community of the Year in Naples a staggering 14 times in 18 years. Max, with a 35-year career in hospitality (hotels and clubs), answers questions received from our readers. Max is a proud member of the Membership Directors Association of Southwest Florida, whose program for exchanging ideas and information is unmatched. Max’s passion is being helpful, so… let’s

Dear Max, Excel drives me crazy; do you have any Excel tips for a beginner or intermediate user?

Signed, #Notexcelling

Dear Excel-lent, Excel drives me crazy too. But I tend to obsess. And online searches aren’t always much help because you could be looking at instructions for an older version. Here are some beginner/intermediate tips that I have discovered along the way that were fun surprises, like “wow, I didn’t know it could do that” or “that was easier than I thought.” I hope you find these examples and tips to be excel-actly what you are looking for.

COUNTIFS

We have all used COUNTIF, right? You ask Excel to show you everything that meets a certain criterion. Did you know that COUNTIF also has a plural version called COUNTIFS? You can select more than one search keyword/character and get a more fine-tuned response. Amazing!

DAYS360

How about Days360? This formula returns the number of days between two dates! Another great place to calculate date data is www.timeanddate.com. My favorite is calculating (quickly) the number of days between two dates. Great for countdowns, etc.

PERCENTRANK

We all know Excel can return values as a percentage, but have you ever played

Ask Max

Ask Max!

around with PERCENTRANK? This one is being replaced soon but it will still be around for older versions. It will probably be split into two or more different options for enhanced functionality. Here’s how it works. You select your array, then you enter the value for the rank you want. Example in real world language: B1:B24 is the array with whatever numerical data is there. You want to know the percentage of one of the options and Excel will show you what the percentage is of all the data that represents that value, or its rank.

CHART DESIGN

The easiest way to take your graphs to the next level is with the Chart Design Menu. You highlight your data and insert the recommended chart, right? Sure, but then go to Chart Design and try different colors, styles, add elements, review the ‘Quick Layout’ recommendations, or just preview the other chart types and make sure your choice tells the best story.

Visit HubSpot for some great Excel Templates to try: https://offers.hubspot.com/ excel-graph-templates

LEFT/MID/RIGHT

I love this one. Let’s say you have a column full of dates, maybe the date members joined. You have month/day/year. You just want the year. Select the cell where the string is located and, in the formula, you type =RIGHT(A2, 4). That will return just the four digits at the end in the A2 cell.

CONCATENATE

This is a favorite of mine and one that I stumbled upon. Ever have information spread out and you want to combine it?

That’s concatenate! You create an empty column near the information you want to combine. In the first adjacent empty cell, select the CONCATENATE formula and choose each cell you want to combine into one, for example, a member’s first and last name into one column and, BAM, text is combined. Text to Columns (a Data menu item, not a formula) does the opposite.

AGE DEMOGRAPHIC

Want to calculate an age demographic? Input the birthdate and today’s date in separate cells, then try this formula using Column A and K in this example: =YEAR(A1)-YEAR(K1) and your spreadsheet will automatically calculate the age for you. (Ever think your date was a date but Excel doesn’t recognize it even if you try reformatting the cell(s)? This can happen when importing data from certain software, especially in CSV format. Quick fix? You can use Text to Columns, unselect any delimited boxes and under column data format, choose date and then finish. If you want to convert to text only, try DATEVALUE.)

ABLEBITS (www.ablebits.com)

Ever heard of it? It’s an Excel add-on that has some great features like importing data from multiple sheets into one sheet with a simple command, in seconds.

CHEAT SHEET

Finally, here’s a great Cheat Sheet for Excel Formulas: https://www.educba.com/ excel-formulas-cheat-sheet/

Summing It Up,

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SPENDING PRACTICE TIME WISELY

By Matt Kilgariff • Director of Player Development

ARE YOU OPTIMIZING YOUR PRACTICE time effectively? If you are uncertain about how to approach practice sessions, please allow me to provide some guidance.

I suggest breaking down your practice routine into two main areas: shots within 100 yards, and shots beyond that distance.

For shots within 100 yards, focus on a comprehensive range of techniques: full wedges, pitch shots, chipping, bunker play and putting.

When working on shots beyond that distance, concentrate on refining your full swing, including tee shots and longer iron shots.

A strategic way to allocate time is to dedicate 70% of it to practicing shots within 100 yards and the remaining 30% to shots beyond that distance. Remarkably, around 65% of shots during a typical round occur within this shorter range.

It’s worth noting that the learning process in golf is often counterintuitive. While many aspire to perfect power and distance with their driver, the true essence lies in the ability to skillfully navigate your way around the green.

Proficiency in putting and chipping is paramount for lower scores. The emphasis on short game technique can greatly alleviate the pressures associated with the long shots.

Building a strong foundation within 100 yards can significantly reduce anxiety during long shots, knowing you can rely on your short game.

When planning your practice sessions, it’s beneficial to adhere to a structured schedule. If you have an hour available, allocate approximately 20 minutes to focusing on what your PGA Professional has advised.

The concept of “feels” is crucial. Being aware of the correct sensations in your swing is indispensable, especially since self-observation is a challenge in golf.

This timeframe is also suitable for revisiting core fundamentals: ball position, alignment, grip, and posture.

For the remaining 40 minutes, shift your focus to honing shots within 100 yards. Break this portion into segments such as distance control with wedges, chipping and pitching, bunker play and putting. Employ drills and games that enable you to gauge your progress. In instances where you’re struggling to identify suitable drills, consulting with your local professional can be helpful.

Maintaining a practice journal will assist in tracking your development and apply pressure to simulate on-course scenarios, mirroring the adage “practice like you play.”

Remember, consistency is key—employ your preshot routine for each shot, whether in practice or during actual rounds. By ingraining routine during practice, you’ll instinctively rely on it when the pressure escalates on the course.

Consider adopting the 70/30 practice split to witness a notable improvement in your handicap in no time.

Matt Kilgariff is a PGA professional who spent much of his career working for Butch Harmon and the Harmon Family. He is currently the Director of Player Development at The Bridges at Rancho Santa Fe in Rancho Santa Fe, Calif. Prior to joining The Bridges, Kilgariff was Director of Player Development at The Olympic Club in San Francisco. Matt has also been part of TaylorMade’s National Advisory Staff since 2012.

The Bridges at Rancho Santa Fe • Rancho Santa Fe, Calif.

“

While many aspire to perfect power and distance with their driver, the true essence lies in the ability to skillfully navigate your way around the green. ”

CLUB PEOPLE ON THE MOVE

RONALD BAKER

Desert Mountain Club in Scottsdale, Ariz., one of the top 10 private country clubs in the nation, welcomes Ronald Baker as Golf Course Superintendent for the award-winning Jack Nicklaus Signature Renegade Course. Most recently, Baker was Director of Agronomy at Boca Lago Golf and Country Club in Boca Raton, Fla.

ELISHA CICERONE

Saddle & Cycle Club, located across from Foster Beach on Lake Michigan in Chicago, Ill. welcomes Elisha Cicerone as General Manager/COO. This historical country club in the city has grown to include a swimming pool, three-hole golf course, ice rink, and racquets. Cicerone was most recently General Manager/COO at Charlotte City Club in Charlotte, N.C.

BRETT EMERSON

Home of the first US Open, West Side Tennis Club in Forest Hills, N.Y. welcomes Brett Emerson as Director of Racquet Sports The Club’s impressive facilities include 3 paddle courts, 9 pickleball courts, and 38 tennis courts.

Emerson was most recently Director of Racquet Sports Operations at The Briar Club in Houston, Texas.

PETER SCHAUB, CCM

The Bohemian Club in San Francisco, Calif. welcomes Peter Schaub, CCM as General Manager/COO. The club operates two distinct properties: a six-story clubhouse in the heart of the city and a beautiful private Redwood preserve in Sonoma County. Schaub was most recently General Manager at The California Club in Los Angeles, Calif.

DAVID SCHNEIDER, PGA, CCM

Among Platinum Clubs of America and Platinum Club of the World, Medinah Country Club in Medinah, Ill. welcomes David Schneider, PGA, CCM as General Manager/COO. The property spans over 600 acres, offering three world-renowned golf courses and top-quality facilities. Schneider was most recently General Manager/COO at Happy Hollow Club in Omaha, Neb.

KAREN WEDLOCK

Vasari Country Club, a private bundled golf community in Bonita Springs, Fla. welcomes Karen Wedlock as Director of Food & Beverage. The property features a newly redesigned 18-hole championship golf course and award-winning clubhouse. Wedlock was most recently Food & Beverage Director at Naples Yacht Club in Naples, Fla.

BETHANY FIELD

Offering panoramic views of the city and world-class cuisine, Charlotte City Club, located in the heart of uptown Charlotte, N.C. welcomes Bethany Field as Controller. Field was most recently Controller at Pine Lake Country Club in Charlotte, NC.

ZAC WILBUR

Northwood Club, a premier country club located in an affluent and vibrant area of Dallas, Texas welcomes Zac Wilbur as Executive Chef. The club offers a variety of a la carte dining venues, extensive banquet operations, and multiple kitchens within their 65,000 square-foot clubhouse. Wilber was most recently Executive Chef at TPC Craig Ranch in McKinney, Texas.

Placements made recently by Kopplin Kuebler & Wallace. More Club People announcements

Kevin Ford, CCM, CEC | Asst General Manager Washington Golf & Country Club

Eric Fromm | Chief Operating Officer New Canaan Racquet Club

Iulia Gherman | Assistant General Manager Sunningdale Country Club

Melanie Halpert | Director of Membership Sales Desert Mountain Club

W Chris Hodson, CCM, CCE | General Manager The Lodge at Glendorn

Tim Kelly | Golf Course Superintendent Huntingdon Valley Country Club

Ted Kohler | General Manager The Litchfield Country Club

Kyle McCoppen | Asst. Chief Financial Officer The Club at Admirals Cove

Joseph McGuire, CCM, CCE | General Manager Hound Ears Club

Matthew Merrill | AGM/Director of Operations Fiddler's Elbow

Charles Merriman | General Manager/COO Inverness Golf Club

Joseph Moultrie | Clubhouse Manager Wicker Point Golf Club

Logan Murphy | Superintendent Outlaw Desert Mountain Club

Jason Rea | Assistant General Manager Bohemian Club

Kevin Sibbring, CAM | GM/COO

Sea Oaks Beach & Tennis Club

Megan Spies, CCM | General Manager Piping Rock Club

Thomas Patrick Srock | Executive Chef Pine Lake Country Club

Jay Szefel | Controller Hillsboro Club

Tai Tran, CCM, ECM | GM/COO Birmingham Country Club

Loraine Vienne, CCM, CCE, CAM | GM Bocaire Country Club

Hugo Welch, CCM | Client Relationships Dir. Northstar Technologies

Jeffrey Wuenstel, CCM | General Manager Wildwood Golf Club

Rebecca Wyskiel | Asst General Manager Baltimore Country Club

Adam Zubek, CCM, AGS | GM/COO La Cumbre Country Club

A ‘ONCE-INA-LIFETIME OPPORTUNITY’

Dedicated group breathes new life into Warren Valley Golf Course, designed by Donald Ross

By Phil Keren, Senior Editor

JASON PEARSALL AND HIS PARTNERS with Revive Golf Management are doing everything they can to take full advantage of what he says is a “once-in-a-lifetime opportunity.” They are working to restore a golf course that was designed by legendary architect Donald Ross in 1922 and opened for business the following year. The site is Warren Valley Golf Course & Banquet Center, a public golf course in Dearborn Heights, Mich. that is 10 miles from Detroit Metro Airport and 19 miles from downtown Detroit. The Rouge River runs throughout a good portion of the golf course and is in play on seven of the 18 holes on the West course.

After operating with 36 holes (with an East course and a West course) for 90-plus years, Warren Valley closed in 2022 to undergo heavy renovation work. In April 2023, the 18-hole West course was reopened. Golfers are pleased with the hard work done by Pearsall’s team to get the course back to a solid playing condition. But Pearsall and his crew are quick to note that there is a long way to go to get the course back to a championship-level condition. The employees who spoke with Club + Resort Business understand and appreciate the fact that they’re working on a course that was molded by one of the game’s great golf course architects. As a result, they consider it a labor of love.

“When you take over a Donald Ross golf course, you almost have this duty to do right by it,” says Pearsall, who is Managing Partner for Revive and is also CEO of Club Caddie.

There is a lot of camaraderie among the employees, too, according to Bryan Bedsworth, Golf Services Manager at Warren Valley.

“What you’ll find is a group of guys that love each other, work hard and we love the game,” Bedsworth says. “It’s a way of life for us.”

Michael Rawlins, Director of Golf at Warren Valley, says golfers should remember they’re “going into a place that has so much history.”

Pearsall formed Revive Golf Management with a couple of friends who are golf course superintendents and a couple of friends who are PGA professionals.

While Revive is operating the golf course and pro shop in cooperation with the city of Dearborn Heights, Issa Brothers LLC is constructing a banquet center, restaurant and lounge that its firm will oversee.

When all the work is done—hopefully in late spring of 2024 — Wesam Issa of Issa Brothers LLC says “It’s going to be untouchable.”

100-YEAR HISTORY INCLUDES SEVERAL DIFFERENT OWNERSHIP ARRANGEMENTS

In its 100-year history, Warren Valley Golf Course has gone through a number of different ownership arrangements. Rob-

ert Nollar in 1922 brought in Ross to design the layout, according to information on Warren Valley’s website.

The first 9 holes on the west side of the course — which was originally named Hawthorne Valley Golf Club — opened to the public on June 30, 1923, while the second 9 holes opened two days later. In April 1925, the east side of the course with 18 more holes opened to the public. One year later, the property added dining, dancing and banquet halls to its offerings.

In 1929, the east and west sides were split into two different organizations. The east side became Thorncliffe Country Club, an exclusive private club for members that was intended to subsidize the west side course, which remained a public facility operating under a reservation system. The land then reverted back to Nollar and the name of the site was changed to Warren Valley Golf Club in 1934. Wayne County purchased the course from Nollar in 1944.

After many years of struggling to keep Warren Valley Golf Course financially afloat, Wayne County in October 2005 paid Torre & Bruglio Golf Course Management Inc. to run the golf course. Operation of the course then switched from Torre & Bruglio to Oneida Golf Management Inc. in 2016. In September 2018, the city of Dearborn Heights purchased Warren Valley from Wayne County to save it from a proposed development. In February 2022, Oneida turned over possession of the course to the city of Dearborn Heights.

Moe Sayed (left) looks on as Rob Kanibar putts on the 1st Hole at Warren Valley Golf Course & Banquet Center in Dearborn Heights, Mich. Aug. 14. Kanibar says he’s pleased with how much the conditions of the course have improved since it was closed for all of 2022 for renovation work.

For the soy pearls:

• Freeze 1 ½ quarts canola oil in a 5-inch-wide, 2-quart cylinder for at least 3 hours

• Bring 240 grams soy sauce just to a simmer

• Add 4 grams agar agar and 5 grams sugar, and stir until it begins to slightly thicken

• Using an eye dropper, drop small droplets of the soy into the frozen oil to set the agar agar, being careful not to overlap

• Strain from cylinder and store in enough oil to cover under refrigeration

For plating:

• Using a 3 ½-inch ring, stack as follows: Bib lettuce, tuna, apples, avocado, soy pearls and micro wasabi

• Garnish with chips

At right is a rendering of the clubhouse that is being constructed on the property of Warren Valley Golf Course & Banquet Center in Dearborn Heights, Mich. Issa Brothers LLC is building a banquet hall, steakhouse restaurant, whiskey and cigar bar, and lounge. The project is targeted for completion in late spring of 2024. ones. comes digiideas or and come developbenefits the in the Craigslist wheels, what used table unfor an

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In August 2022, Dearborn Heights City Council approved a contract that allowed Issa Brothers LLC to operate the banquet hall, restaurant and lounge, and allowed Revive Golf Management to run the golf course and pro shop.

Due to poor conditions, Warren Valley’s two 18-hole golf courses were closed for the entire 2022 season. Revive’s crew had their work cut out for them as they set out to restore the West course so it could open for play in 2023.

Daddezio The bee hives and gardens have really bolstered our culinary program, while promoting good stewardship of the environment. At our annual farm-to-table dinner, we paired the honey from our hives with locally produced

GREENS, BUNKERS, DRAINAGE IMPROVED

“It was not a golf course…Greens were burnt out and dead,” says Rawlins. “[The] grass was 4, 5, 6 feet tall in the fairways.” He notes there was no sand in the bunkers.

“It took me all fall [of 2022) to get the fairways down to a halfinch,” adds Chris Nixon, the course’s Assistant Superintendent. “…I recut some of the original Donald Ross bunkers, which was incredibly humbling to try to interpret his vision after 100 years.”

In addition, Nixon says his team “ brought in the best sod you can buy…007 BentXL.”

Pearsall explains there were a couple of reasons they used this particular type of sod.

“We are in a floodplain and [007 XL is] super disease-resistant,” Pearsall said. “The size of the blades are smaller, and so it rolls quicker…[they’re] just really good greens.”

Another priority, Pearsall says, was addressing drainage problems that regularly occurred on the course.

“[We] redid a ton of drainage and that was really a focus because this course has historically flooded,” Pearsall says. “If you get a half-inch of rain, you’d shut down for three days.”

The drainage system was unclogged and additional drainage was installed on nearly every hole in the form of trenches with peat rock.

Pearsall adds that the fairways and tee boxes were re-seeded and some more grass seed was added to areas of rough around the course.

Heavy rainfall in the spring delayed the completion of the cart path project by about two months. With that work not being finished until the end of June, Pearsall says they’ve held off on putting out new grass seed and sod near the cart paths.

Rawlins said the grounds crew worked to return the course to “‘[Donald Ross’s] original specs as much as we could.”

Course Superintendent Eric Goodman, Rawlins says, has “done a great job. He knows how to manage a team, especially at a busy course.”

So far, they’ve heard plenty of positive feedback about the course from the 200 to 250 golfers that play there each day.

Rob Kanibar, who’s played at Warren Valley for five years, told C+RB that the condition of the fairways, cart paths and greens have greatly improved.

SUBMITTED BY DAVID N. DADDEZIO, PC1, EXECUTIVE CHEF, VICMEAD HUNT CLUB/BIDERMANN GOLF COURSE, WILMINGTON, DEL.

Rendering Courtesy of Issa Brothers, LLC

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While appreciating the compliment, Pearsall tells Kanibar and his playing partner, Moe Sayed, that the conditions “will get a lot better.”

GOLF COURSE REWARDS ACCURACY, SOFT PUTTING STROKE

Bedsworth gave a tour of the course and shares his appreciation for the challenging layout that Ross formulated more than a century ago. Long hitters will look at the modest distance of 6,127 yards from the back tees on the Par 71 course and think they will have a field day. Think again, Bedsworth notes. With many small greens that typically slope from back-to-front, have plenty of undulations and swales, and are guarded by bunkers or woods, Warren Valley rewards precision and a soft putting touch.

Bedsworth notes the Par 4, 385-yard 3rd hole has a lot of trees on both the left and right sides of the fairway that ends with a “beautiful little green down in the valley.”

“If you miss [the green] right, left, or long, good luck,” Bedsworth says. “...And this green’s slicker than snot…The key to playing a Donald Ross golf course, historically, is, you better be below the hole. Don’t be above the hole.”

On the Par 4, 318-yard 4th hole, Bedsworth explains golfers “have a blind tee shot somewhat and [the fairway] narrows as you’re coming up…if you get too far left here, you’re hitting a knockdown shot into a slick little pool table with bunkers on either side…you can’t even see the bunkers on the right.”

The course has just two Par 5 holes and only three Par 3 holes, but Bedsworth notes the design of the 189-yard, Par 3 7th hole represents “Donald Ross at his best...It’s uphill, it’s

into the wind. Old guys like me [hit] driver and maybe I’ll get there…it’s a monster.”

TWO DRIVING RANGES PLANNED ON PROPERTY

For the first time in Warren Valley’s history, a driving range will be built on the property, along with a short game range with a green and a flag where golfers can practice shots from 100 yards or less. Lessons for golfers of all levels will be offered once the driving range spaces are finished, Rawlins says.

There is a passholder program and Dearborn Heights residents can purchase a discounted pass that can be used throughout the season. A majority of people who play the course live in Dearborn Heights.

There are currently about 12 to 14 leagues with approximately 30 golfers in each one. A golf outing celebrating the 100th anniversary of the course took place in early summer.

CLUBHOUSE PROJECT EYED FOR COMPLETION IN LATE SPRING 2024

While golf is the only activity happening at Warren Valley, next year promises to be filled with many more events. That’s because Issa Brothers is hoping to finish construction of a clubhouse with a banquet center, steakhouse, whiskey and cigar bar, and lounge in late spring of 2024.

Wesam Issa says an addition is being installed that will bring the building 37 feet closer to the course. A patio will be constructed in between the building and the golf course.

“It will be a nice patio where people can mingle, eat, drink, smoke,” says Issa. “This is all getting cleaned up so you can see the [Rouge] River and the driving range…Spring, summer, it’s

The grounds crew at Warren Valley Golf Course & Banquet Center in Dearborn Heights, Mich. spent several months renovating the West course starting in August 2022. These side-by-side photos show the progress the staff made during an eight-month period. After being closed for the entire 2022 season, Warren Valley’s West course reopened to the public in April 2023.

going to be beautiful out here. Even fall’s going to be nice.”

A second hall is being constructed and Issa says he will have a club operation in that space on weekends. During the week, the hall will be rented out for smaller events such as birthday parties or bachelor parties.

COURSE ON TRACK FOR 35,000 TO 40,000 ROUNDS IN 2023

Pearsall says Warren Valley is on track to have 35,000 to 40,000 rounds played in 2023, which he noted is “excellent.”

“We’ll continue to assess the rounds and if the rounds suddenly get above 50[,000], we’ll probably have the justification to restore another 9 [holes], but I don’t think we’ll ever do a whole other 18,” says Pearsall, who also notes the final decision rests with the city of Dearborn Heights.

He adds he believes course officials would “restore 13 holes… and do some alternate rotations…[there will] likely [be] somewhere between 27 and 33 holes.”

‘PAYING HOMAGE’ TO ROSS’S LEGACY

There will continue to be features added to the layout to re-

mind golfers that they are playing on a course designed by Ross. When he and his team took on the project, Pearsall says he flew to Scotland and visited Ross’s hometown of Dornoch.

“[I] went to his house [and] the place where he started playing and went to St. Andrews, which is where he worked after Dornoch,” Pearsall says.

He notes they will plant and try to grow Gorse flowers, which are yellow flowers typically seen on the St. Andrews course during The Open Championship. Pearsall says he and his staff have some places where they’re going to put Gorse flowers out and put in some other Scotland-flavored features.

The intention is to pull out “all the Ross attributes and really paying homage to his legacy is our goal,” Pearsall says.

Even with all the work that’s happened so far and the additional labor that still needs to occur, Warren Valley staffers are ever mindful of the special ground that they walk on each day.

“I’m really just a humble steward of this land,” Nixon says. “... It’s just really humbling, a really awesome experience. I’ve got a great crew of guys around me, the management team’s awesome…We’re all golf nuts, golf historians, we know how special it is, and we’re not going to squander that.” C+RB

ELEGANT. DURABLE. STACKABLE.

CUSTOM WOOD CHAIRS

The Suite Life

On-site lodging affords convenient accommodations and accessible amenities.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

SUMMING IT UP

> Resorts with updated guest facilities keep pace with visitor expectations.

> A property’s natural surroundings help to inform color palette and décor choices.

> Adding modern-day conveniences to rooms and suites provides additional comforts for guests.

STAY AND PLAY has become synonymous with club living. Providing visitors with the option of extending their day beyond the green and into comfortable sleeping quarters—stocked with amenities aplenty—is a growing trend among bustling facilities. Be it a top-tier resort in a popular vacation destination, a facility that embraces its rich heritage, or a property that invites homeowners to join an exclusive members-only club, these forward-thinking designs have all the comforts of home … and then some.

LAKESIDE LIVING

At Grand Geneva Resort & Spa, in Lake Geneva, Wis., a recent guest facilities renovation marks the latest update and is paving the way for additional construction (refreshed ballrooms and meeting spaces are slated for spring 2024). “The resort always prioritizes investments and improvements to ensure the quality of the guest experience and services it is known for,” says Managing Director Skip Harless.

This past May, the facility completed a top-to-bottom overhaul of its 358 guest rooms and suites, providing enhanced accommodations for a thriving property.

Photo Courtesy of the Grand Geneva Resort & Spa

GRAND GENEVA RESORT & SPA

Lake Geneva, Wis.

Grand Geneva guests have myriad options when it comes to overnight stays. Standard rooms begin at 335 sq. ft., while suites range from 390-990 sq. ft. with a host of additional features. Amenities vary based on room style; standard rooms are equipped with 55-inch flat screen televisions, wireless internet, and motion sensor lighting. Suites include separate living and sleep quarters, along with a wet bar, gas fireplaces, balcony or patio. Bathrooms feature glacier white marble tile and custom matte black fixtures.

To create a consistent design across all guest spaces, designers looked to Grand Geneva’s natural surroundings for inspiration. Neutral colors and wood furnishings reflect the 1,300-acre resort’s great outdoors, with views of the lake and golf course just outside the window. Curated artwork from midwestern designers brings the feel of country life indoors, while balancing out the contemporary fixtures and furnishings. Underfoot, industrial carpeting in an ombre design picks up on similarly hued bedding and window treatments. Harless credits this style for “helping to extend the carpet life due to the movement in the pattern that tends to hide wear.”

This design palette carries over into the adjoining bathrooms, equipped with glacier white marble tile, custom black fixtures, natural stone flooring and granite vanity. Motion sensor lighting, elevated toilets and handheld showers round out the modern-day conveniences.

Since Grand Geneva’s refreshed guest rooms were unveiled, Harless reports glowing reviews from its patrons, further cementing its brand identity as a premium resort. “The feedback has been incredibly positive as guests rediscover the resort and its new look, while enjoying the services and amenities that it has always been known for,” says Harless.

COASTAL COMFORT

Briny ocean breezes beckon just over the bridge at LBI National Golf & Resort in Little Egg Harbor City, N.J., where guest facilities have undergone a recent makeover. Following the rebranding of the Jersey Shore resort, each of the 32 guest rooms have been updated to meet the needs of its new and returning clientele. “The goal was to make the guests feel rejuvenated from the moment they arrived, reinforcing the

“The feedback has been incredibly positive as guests rediscover the resort and its new look, while enjoying the services and amenities that it has always been known for.”

— Skip Harless, Managing Director

LBI NATIONAL GOLF & RESORT

Little Egg Harbor City, N.J.

“The goal was to make the guests feel rejuvenated from the moment they arrived, reinforcing the resort’s commitment to providing quality service.”

— Noelle D’Olio, Corporate Creative Director for VIVÂMEE Hospitality

Introducing the Samsa collection, designed by Maximilian Jencquel. Upholstery and pillows in Perennials fabrics I perennialsandsutherland.com

THE VINOY RESORT AND GOLF CLUB

St. Petersburg, Fla.

resort’s commitment to providing quality service,” says Noelle D’Olio, Corporate Creative Director for VIVÂMEE Hospitality, which manages the property.

Visitors to LBI National have the option of staying in standard guest rooms or deluxe suites, within comfortable 350-700-sq.-ft. setups. In a style characterized as a blend of coastal and mid-century modern, each space blends casual comfort with sophisticated accents. Sea- and sky-inspired blues, along with sandy beiges and soft whites, are designed to soothe and relax. D’Olio points out the boutique-style furnishings’ “clean lines and elegant silhouettes. These pieces are designed to provide both aesthetic appeal and functionality, allowing guests to feel at home,” she says. Warm woods, metallic details and woven fabrics are peppered throughout, while wall art showcasing Long Beach Island’s lighthouse and abstract artwork of the golf course add a personal touch to the living space.

The mid-century modern and coastal vibe carries over into the adjoining bathroom, awash in deep blue and complete with clean lines, contemporary fixtures and sea-inspired accents. Standard in-room amenities include desk space, a coffee bar and mini bar, while suites include a separate kitchen area.

With each room affording the privacy and personal touches that loyal customers have come to know and appreciate, LBI National is able to usher in a new wave of guests. “By upgrading the accommodations, dining areas and event spaces, the intention was to enhance guest satisfaction and encourage repeat visits,” notes D’Olio. Those making long-range plans to visit south Jersey next summer will know exactly where to stay.

OLD WORLD CHARM

Tapping into the prominent past of the St. Petersburg, Fla.

community, The Vinoy Resort and Golf Club recently completed the first stage of a full-scale renovation that included refreshed guest rooms. General Manager Vanessa Williams describes the project as having “captured the beauty of Florida’s golden age, reflecting the hotel’s rich history through a sophisticated lens.” The rooms, which are part of the Marriott Bonvoy’s Autograph Collection, were unveiled to guests last April and earned a strong reception.

Ranging from 330 to 1,420 sq. ft., Vinoy’s updated guest accommodations are situated in the resort’s main Historic Building and Tower. Standard facilities are outfitted with a king bed or two queen beds, while Tower rooms include a patio or balcony overlooking the lush grounds. Suites in either locale boast a prime bay or garden view and separate living room, with Tower suites featuring a balcony.

Giving a nod to the Floridian coast, each room is laid out with wood flooring leading into blue carpeting—a look that Williams characterizes as the sand meeting the sea—and sophisticated detailing like crown molding and ornate fixtures. Custom paintings from Alicia LaChance add color and personality to walls, further personalizing the space. King rooms designed with cane panels help to distinguish the entry from the rest of the living space. This luxurious vibe carries over into the stone-covered bathrooms and their marble walk-in showers.

Williams credits the Vinoy’s refresh for helping to maintain the resort’s roots and reaffirming its brand identity for future visitors. “The Vinoy is a historical icon in the St. Pete community, known for its unique architecture and storied history,” she says. “The updated guest rooms, and overall renovations, celebrate the hotel’s traditional Mediterranean Revival style and old-world Florida grandeur, seamlessly integrating 21st century elements.”

“The updated guest rooms, and overall renovations, celebrate the hotel’s traditional Mediterranean Revival style and old-world Florida grandeur, seamlessly integrating 21st century elements.”

— Vanessa Williams, General Manager

The Apawamis Club, Rye, NY

THE GREENBRIER

PERMANENT HOUSING

Taking advantage of resort amenities while returning to the privacy of home may seem like a dream, but for those at The Greenbrier in White Sulphur Springs, W. Va., it’s a wish come true. The Greenbrier Legacy Club program affords homeowners the opportunity to obtain membership following the sale of a legacy cottage or estate home, which are then redesigned. With the majority of members joining this exclusive initiative, the resort continues to find ways to appeal to new clientele with first-class accommodations.

Residence renovations were prompted by a desire to keep pace with modern-day lodging. “The historic elements of the properties were a major part of the appeal, but this refresh allowed the addition of some modern convenience and personal touches, while still maintaining the Greenbrier’s signature look,” explains Jill Justice, DO, President of The Greenbrier. “When the decision was made to sell these properties to private owners, it was also critical to convert many of the properties to make them more functional as long-term residences.” Custom kitchens and upgraded bathrooms were also key components of the refurbished homes.

Guest homes are situated throughout the resort’s property, offering convenient access to the main facility and views of the golf courses, croquet lawn and clubhouse. Their footprints vary, from one-bedroom, 725-sq.-ft. Spring Row Cottages, to Estate homes boasting up to seven bedrooms.

As part of The Greenbrier Legacy Club, buyers choose a designated floor plan and interior design plan upon purchase. Cottages come fully deeded and owners are enrolled in an HOA program that includes utilities, maintenance, landscaping, security, trash collection and other services. An added incentive is an opt-in hotel rental initiative, enabling homeowners to

rent their property and generate income.

Renovations are handled by Greenbrier Interiors, a team of in-house designers that have created four palettes from which residents may select and which incorporate wares from Dorothy Draper Fabrics & Wallpapers, Thibaut, Circa Lighting, Carleton V. Kindel, Iconic Pineapple and Cooper Classics, among other vendors.

The Huntsman, aimed at the sportsman, features décor in deep navy and forest green. “It’s perfect for those who want to bring an upscale lodge look into a relaxed home,” describes Justice. The Traditionalist is resplendent in light blues and greens for a subdued look, while the Showstopper reflects a bolder color palette that resembles the main hotel. Finally, the Springhouse pays tribute to the Greenbrier’s domed structure on the center of the grounds. “The design … creates a relaxing atmosphere, symbolic of the laid-back mountain living and renewing mineral spa,” says Justice of the resort’s main attraction dating back to 1778.

According to Justice, approximately 90 percent of residents are part of this Greenbrier-managed program. There are currently 72 Legacy Cottages and Estates homes for sale, with Spring Row Cottages accounting for the fastest selling property so far. With some cottages dating back nearly two centuries, Justice acknowledges the palpable enthusiasm for the program as a whole. “Many speak of wanting to create a legacy to pass down to future generations, and some selected a home where they have stayed and created lasting memories in the past,” she notes. “All who have seen the cottages have been impressed with the way they celebrate The Greenbrier’s history, while providing an exciting new look and increased functionality. Their potential as luxury rental properties is impossible to ignore.” C+RB

White Sulphur Springs, W. Va.

“All who have seen the cottages have been impressed with the way they celebrate The Greenbrier’s history, while providing an exciting new look and increased functionality.”

— Jill Justice, DO, President of The Greenbrier

HOW THE UNION LEAGUE INVESTS IN ITS CHEFS

As The Union League of Philadelphia celebrates the first anniversary of Marquis by Denny Santiago, the restaurant’s namesake continues a decades-long legacy of mentorship and culinary excellence.

INSIDE

Charcuterie That Goes Beyond the Board

Small Bites Bring Big Delights

The Decline of Member Etiquette

A REVOLUTION AND A GREAT PARTNER

CONNECTIONS AND FRIENDSHIPS often serve as the catalyst for innovation and progress.

I met Scott Craig, WCMC, Executive Chef of Cullasaja Club (Highlands, N.C.), during a dinner at New Orleans Country Club almost a decade ago. Little did I know that this random seating arrangement would lead to a profound partnership, one that has greatly enriched Club + Resort Chef

Over the years, Chef Craig has proven to be a valuable ally, consistently offering his time and expertise. His bold ideas—sometimes appearing out of thin air— have stretched the limits of our capabilities, challenging us to rise to the occasion. But as I have learned, when Chef Craig proposes an idea, it’s because the industry needs it, and we must heed the call.

One such example is our salary survey. If you haven’t had the opportunity to participate yet, I encourage you to access it via the QR code provided near my signature. This survey aims to shed light on the salaries and compensation packages of chefs and culinary professionals in club and resort settings, promoting transparency and fair compensation practices. The results, which will be unveiled in our November issue, are already shaping up to be a valuable resource for our industry, thanks to the participation of over 400 chefs.

This collaborative, innovative spirit doesn’t stop there.

As the Chef to Chef Conference has continued to grow, the aspiration for something smaller, more focused, and hands-on always lingered in the back of my mind. But the logistics remained elusive—until Chef Craig stepped in.

Together, we conceived PlateCraft, a distinctive and immersive two-day culinary experience that will unfold at Cullasaja Club from November 5th to 7th, 2023. With limited seats available, PlateCraft

promises an exclusive opportunity for chefs to delve deeper into their craft, to collaborate, learn, and elevate their culinary expertise.

The response to PlateCraft has been nothing short of remarkable. When we opened registration on August 21st, it took a mere six days for all available seats to be claimed, a testament to the hunger for such unique and enriching experiences within the club culinary community.

Thanks to chefs like Chef Craig who share our commitment to advancing club culinary, I am excited to see PlateCraft come to life and look forward to the impact it will undoubtedly have on the industry.

However, let me be clear: This is just the beginning of our journey. As we continue to shape fresh content, conceive innovative events, and incubate novel ideas, partners like Chef Craig, and indeed, all of you, are paramount to ensuring our mission remains pertinent and beneficial.

Together, we are not only preserving the rich tapestry of club culinary but weaving new threads that will inspire, educate, and elevate the entire industry.

DIRECTOR OF EDITORIAL AND PROGRAMMING

Joanna DeChellis jdechellis@wtwhmedia.com 412-260-9233

Patina

32 Editor’s Memo

36 How The Union League Invests In

Its Chefs

As The Union League of Philadelphia celebrates the rst anniversary of Marquis by Denny Santiago, the restaurant’s namesake continues a decades-long legacy of mentorship and culinary excellence.

40 Investing In a Helping Hand Premade pastry, the unsung hero of busy culinary departments, is stepping up its game.

42 Going Beyond the Board

Club chefs are leveraging the artistry of sausage-making and charcuterie to educate and inspire culinary teams, while providing members with distinctive o erings.

46 Beyond California

Whether your members prefer the bold wines of the West or the Indigenous grapes of the East, America has special wines to o er.

48 Small Bites Bring Big Delights

A feast for the senses, hors d’oeuvres help kick o special events with mouthwatering appetizers and eye-catching displays.

50 Managing Member (Mis)behavior

Scott Craig, WCMC, Executive Chef of Cullasaja Club, o ers strategic insights on managing challenging members with key tactics like maintaining a professional demeanor and diplomatically addressing any issues that arise.

52 How Pelican Isle Yacht Club’s GM Leverages Her F&B Experience

Pelican Isle Yacht Club’s new Executive Chef, Roger Anderhalden, was chosen by GM Alisha Feezor, who discusses his suitability and anticipated challenges and opportunities.

Making a Name for Themselves: How The Union League Invests In Its Chefs

By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor

FOR DENNY SANTIAGO, Executive Chef of Union League Liberty Hill (Lafayette Hill, Pa.), food has always been synonymous with family.

Growing up in a Puerto Rican household in Philadelphia, “food would just appear,” he recalls. Especially around the holidays, “the house permeated with all these beautiful aromas: morcilla, chicharrones de cerdo, pasteles, arroz con gandules,” he says. “Everyone would be cooking and enjoying one another’s company.”

Camaraderie and hospitality have become enduring themes in Santiago’s accomplished career, which reached its pinnacle last year with the debut of the Union League’s latest restaurant, Marquis by Denny Santiago.

“It’s a way to honor my family,” says Santiago. “At the heart of Marquis, we want [members] to feel at home.”

A DINING DESTINATION

The Union League of Philadelphia acquired Union League Liberty Hill in 2021. The purchase of the formerly public course and clubhouse further expanded the club’s facilities beyond its flagship downtown Philadelphia location.

Today, the League offers its 4,200 members an array of amenities across five companion properties: The Bungalow, The Union League Golf Club at Torresdale, The Union League Guard House, Union

League National Golf Club, and Union League Liberty Hill. Martin Hamann serves as the the League’s Executive Chef, overseeing the club’s entire culinary operation and team. He and Santiago have worked together for 30 years now.

After culinary school, Santiago secured a job at the Four Seasons Hotel in Philadelphia, a move that, as he puts it, “changed the trajectory of my career.”

There, he worked under Hamann, as well as Tony Clark and renowned French chef Jean-Marie Lacroix. Each of these chefs played an instrumental role in Santiago’s career.

“The Four Seasons was a no-nonsense place,” he says. “There was a level of perfection [expected]. It was very, very challenging. I remember saying I would be there about a year; fifteen years later, I was a sous chef running one of the restaurants.”

In 2008, Hamann left the Four Seasons to join the Union League and open a restaurant under his own name: 1862 by Martin Hamann. Eight months later, Santiago joined him as Executive Sous Chef.

“[Hamann] put the Union League’s culinary program on the map,” says Santiago. “I jumped at the opportunity to work with him again.”

Dozens of other culinary staff members left the Four Seasons for the Union League, says Santiago. “It wasn’t that we were calling people; they were calling us,” he clarifies. “They were calling him.”

“We always say [Hamann] is like the godfather of

As The Union League of Philadelphia celebrates the first anniversary of Marquis by Denny Santiago, the restaurant’s namesake continues a decades-long legacy of mentorship and culinary excellence.

the kitchen,” says Katie Sacchetta, the Union League’s Executive Food and Beverage Director. “There’s a distinct di erence between eating and dining. He took us to that next level: a dining destination.”

When the League purchased Liberty Hill, Santiago and Executive Sous Chef Jim Gallagher were asked to run the culinary operation and open a brand-new restaurant.

By this point, Santiago had worked at the League close to 15 years, helping to facilitate the opening of multiple restaurants and amenities across a number of locations. As the only other restaurant with a chef’s name attached to it, Marquis set the tone for the level of quality and service members could expect.

“It was time for [Santiago] to put his name out there,” says Hamann, just as he’d done with 1862. “That’s what the whole industry is about—at least for me now. I want people to grow, knowing that when I leave the Union League, it’s going to be in good standing. ... [Santiago] and [Gallagher] are dynamite chefs. I told them to be themselves.”

Just as Hamann o ered Santiago the opportunity to help remodel the League House kitchen years prior, Santiago asked that Gallagher work with him to design Marquis’ kitchen.

“It was important to him that I was involved,” says Gallagher. “We built this restaurant—[paying attention to] every detail. That experience was incredibly valuable.”

Gallagher, too, is a Philadelphia native and a Four Seasons alum. Sacchetta likens them to brothers.

“Ever since I’ve known him, from the Four Seasons in 1992, he’s been my boss, my chef,” says Gallagher. “That said, he’s family to me. ... When I interview young [chefs], I’ll tell them, ‘I’ve [known] this guy for 30 years.’ To me, that carries weight. There’s a lot of trust that can only exist after that many years.”

Santiago and Gallagher agree on most things. When it

comes to hiring and training new sta , they both say the most important factors are not skill nor experience but attitude, kindness, and a willingness to learn and to pass that information on.

“I think that’s the secret sauce,” says Gallagher. “I’m going to give everything I possibly can to you that was given to me freely. Ultimately, we’re building something bigger than any one of us.”

CAVIAR AND CAMARADERIE

Marquis by Denny Santiago is the League’s most modern dining venue, its open kitchen a perfect metaphor for the chefs’ leadership style and sense of hospitality. When members walk into Marquis, they’re immediately greeted by Santiago and team who are experts at balancing a strict standard of culinary excellence with a certain sense of camaraderie and humor.

Menus change four or five times a year, plus specials. The cuisine is contemporary—creative takes on meats and seafood, handmade pastas, plus handcrafted cocktails and an impressive pastry program, all of which center around fresh, seasonal ingredients.

“Some chefs start with the protein and work around that,” says Santiago. “We hyper-focus on the seasonal produce. We talk to our purveyors to see what’s fresh and trending, then we write menus around those items.”

Heirloom tomatoes and watermelon were among the stars this summer.

“We have a jumbo lump crab cake on the menu with heirloom tomatoes and an herb crust,” says Santiago. “We also o er Atlantic halibut with fresh corn, a little potato, and an espuma on top. There’s a burrata salad with compressed melon and a watermelon consommé that we pour inside, [garnished] with a drizzle of basil oil that floats on top.”

The menu layout includes a section designed for sharing and sparking conversations, says Santiago.

Marquis’ culinary leadership team includes (from left to right) Executive Pastry Chef Robert Bennett, Executive Chef Denny Santiago, Executive Sous Chef Jim Gallagher, and Chef de Cuisine Andrew Ryan (not pictured).

“Our 32-ounce veal chop is presented on a guéridon and carved tableside. Our namesake dish, The Grand Marquis (pictured top right), is a seafood tower. Depending on the time of year, it might feature a tartare, crudo, or ceviche, accompanied by a tin of Royal Daurenki caviar.”

The League’s members have sophisticated palates, Santiago notes, so each dish is meticulously considered from every angle to provide the highest quality and most imaginative presentations and flavors.

“We have a smashburger on the menu,” Santiago says, as an example, “and it’s dynamite. The meat and cheese are exceptional quality, we make our own sauce and pickles. The buns are made in-house, too.”

In fact, all of Liberty Hill’s breads are made in-house. The pastry team, led by Executive Pastry Chef Robert Bennett, produces six types of bread, including a Japanese milk bread with acacia honey for the table.

Bennett joined the Union League two years ago, after an impressive 14-year run as the Executive Pastry Chef of Le Bec-Fin, a renowned Philadelphia institution under the helm of esteemed French Chef Georges Perrier.

A nod to Le Bec-Fin is Marquis’ miniature dessert cart, named Avery Ann’s Cart after Bennett’s first granddaughter.

“Again, I wanted this restaurant to pay homage to our families,” adds Santiago. “The chef presents each item from the cart at the table, and members are truly ‘wowed.’”

This fall, Marquis will unveil a new addition to the dining experience named after Santiago’s daughter. The dessert—“Sweet Juliet”—features a series of signature petit fours and mignardise known as “Hidden Jules.”

On the dessert cart, Bennett o ers a wide range of textures and flavors for any palate: citrus, chocolate, nuts, crunch, frozen, and fruit. “We always have a cheesecake of some sort because it’s relatable,” he says. “And because we’re in the States, there’s always something with peanut butter.”

Since its start, Marquis has experimented with plated desserts, but “they sort of fall by the wayside,” Bennett notes. “They want the cart.”

But, he adds casually, “we also make sou és, jams—I like to pick my own fruit—chocolates, gelato and sorbet, two kinds of pu pastry—I personally love variety.”

A FIVE-STAR RESORT CLUB

The next venture for The Union League of Philadelphia is its eagerly anticipated tenth restaurant, scheduled to open by the end of the year at the League House.

This indoor-outdoor rooftop spot, christened ‘Trumbauer’ in honor of an influential early 20th-century American architect and League member, promises 150 seats and panoramic city views, with wood- and coalburning ovens and grills.

At the Liberty Hill location, “the sky’s the limit,” says Sean Palmer, the League’s Director of Golf and Liberty Hill’s General Manager.

“Within the next year, we plan to expand our ballroom,” he says. “In about three years, we’ll embark on a major project: a fitness facility with indoor-outdoor aquatics. Beyond that, we’re looking to bring some big golf events to the facility.”

Santiago aims to redesign the banquet kitchen at Liberty Hill and create a studio kitchen space for both savory and sweet demonstrations.

“[Bennett] could host baking classes,” says Santiago. “I’ve always envisioned Willy Wonka & the Chocolate Factory; I want to create a space where members can see him working with sugar and chocolate.”

“I never would’ve thought that I would have a restaurant with my name on it,” adds Santiago, reflecting on the past year. “Liberty Hill is evolving so quickly. ... I’m proud to be part of something great—and to have the opportunity to bring other chefs along for the ride.” C+RC

Marquis by Denny Santiago o ers contemporary and creative cuisine with a special focus on seasonality. The restaurant’s signature dish, known as The Grand Marquis, is a seafood tower (on the right). Among its summer starters was an ahi tuna tartare (on the left) with compressed watermelon, avocado espuma, mint, and lime gelée, garnished with a squid ink tuile.

Investing in a Helping Hand

Premade pastry, the unsung hero of busy culinary departments, is stepping up its game.

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

INDULGE IN A CULINARY

fantasy, if you will. Imagine being gifted a product that would save time and money in the kitchen without skimping on quality. Enter the premade pastry, a must-have that enables chefs to finetune their finished product—instead of waiting for dough to rise.

Chefs in the know share their experiences using premade pastry products: how it boosts productivity and gives them more opportunities to focus on menu planning and recipe execution.

A SURE BET

It was members’ good fortune this past June when Pastry Chef Jennie Miller left the casino industry for a new position at the Union League Club of Chicago. While both markets have their own banquet and a la carte operations, the private club environment allows Miller to understand her clientele better.

“At the club, you are seeing the same faces and are able to get to know their preferences and cater to them more e ciently and personally,” she explains.

Miller allocates her resources wisely to fulfill members’ expectations, particularly as the club rebuilds its pastry program.

And because she is working with a limited sta , that means relying on premade pastry products like croissant dough, Danish dough and tart shells, all of which provide considerable savings to her bottom line. “There is no sheeter [at the club], and the labor

involved with making [croissant dough] from scratch would make the cost astronomical,” she points out.

Premade pastry in Miller’s current repertoire includes a 3-inch tart shell for key lime pie (“the perfect size for plating”) and a 2.1-inch tart shell for bu et setups.

Of course, the downside of premade pastry usage is quality control, prompting Miller to take extra steps to ensure consistency. Shipping woes are also contending; products must be e ectively packaged to minimize damage and additional fees.

Miller expects to rely heavily on premade pastry for the upcoming holiday season when she’ll employ a variety of products on her menus. The upside: having more time to create homemade

fillings, including di erent flavors of ganache, curds and mousse, as well as house-made pecan pie, frangipane and clafoutis tarts. “If I want to take it to the next level, I will fill the tart shell with, say, a ganache or Namelaka and then create a molded mousse to put on top of that,” she adds.

ROBUST PUFFS

At the Everglades Club in Palm Beach, Fla., premade pu pastry sheets are a hot commodity for Executive Pastry Chef Matthew Ratli , WCMPC, CMB, CEPC, who lauds them for their myriad benefits.

“As the need for pu pastry comes in, I don’t have to divert labor or use overtime to produce it,” he says.

The Union League Club of Chicago’s Pastry Chef, Jennie Miller, utilizes premade pastry items including a 3-inch tart shell for key lime pie and a 2.1-inch tart shell for bu ets.

It’s a must for banquets, which are plentiful at the bustling Florida club.

Determining which pastry products Ratli can outsource stems from a storied culinary experience that began fresh out of high school at the Silver Lake (Ohio) Country Club.

He recalls how a limited sta and lack of equipment prompted the kitchen to rely heavily on premade pastry (“Take them out of the box, garnish and go.”)

This approach was especially familiar when Ratli first joined the Everglades Club as an assistant pastry chef 15 years ago when a five-person sta limited operations and premade pastry became a necessity.

Today, Ratli ’s kitchen has beefed up its sta to 18, enabling more products to be made in-house—something that does come at a cost. “I feel very fortunate to have a membership that is aware and wants as much of their food made from scratch as possible,” he says. Even with a solid workforce, his kitchen still uses premade pu pastry sheets and hazelnut paste. High-quality pu s have their advantages over other

standard products. “Because it has no yeast, its shelf life in the freezer is six months-plus, unlike croissant or Danish dough, which deteriorates in weeks,” notes Ratli .

Because of the premade pu ’s versatility, it is used for savory items, like vol-au-vents and fleurons, and sweet pastries, including apple turnovers, mille feuille and pithivier.

Premade pastry gets plenty of mileage at the Everglades Club, particularly during banquets, when headcounts can range from ten to 800 guests.

“Being able to buy a high-quality, consistent product with no labor spent means you can accommodate any size banquet without sacrificing product quality,” says Ratli . “Premade products might be the di erence in accepting the party or turning it down.”

Having a supply of premade products also helps when calculating costs because prices are more predictable, unlike basic ingredients that fluctuate with supply and demand.

Before the kicko of the holiday season, Ratli expects to have extra pu pastry on hand to serve the club’s growing number of pop-up events. He can easily use premade products for plated desserts, petit fours and other bu et-style pastries.

For any skeptics who are not 100 percent sold on premade, Ratli recommends experimenting and tastetesting house-made versus purchased pastry items. “This will weed out those inferior products,” he says.

PREMADE DOUGH: THE WAY TO GO

In addition to employing this staple for the past five and half years in his kitchen at The Country Club of Birmingham (Ala.), Executive Pastry Chef Chad Starr has relied on it his entire career. “It’s a real time and money saver,” he says of the club’s reliance on outsourced pu pastry, pie shells, phyllo dough and tart shells. “I have always used it in menu planning if it fits the idea I am going for.”

Because there’s a lag between dough making, chilling and rolling, outsourcing pastry products enables Starr to devote more time to enhancing his finished product. “Pastry doughs are very simplistic and neutral in taste,” he notes. “If you make a great filling and add lots of flavors, the pastry will shine.”

Starr uses premade pastry largely for special events due to the sheer volume, as well as in a la carte classic desserts, such as a Napoleon with fresh raspberries and key lime diplomat cream with white chocolate shavings and raspberry coulis. To counteract the lack of flakiness in premade products, he makes a point of baking it thoroughly, ensuring a crisp texture.

Premade pastry will have a starring role at the club this coming season. Starr plans to use purchased pie shells for staple desserts like chocolate fudge pie and pecan pies and tart shells for apple crumb tarts on banquet tables. On the savory side, pot pies will also incorporate premade pu pastry, o ering dinner diners a chance to experience the pillowy delicacy. C+RC

Everglades Club’s Executive Pastry Chef, Matthew Ratli , uses premade pu pastry sheets to meet member demand, keeping labor considerations in mind.

Executive Pastry Chef Chad Starr says The Country Club of Birmingham often outsources pu pastry, pie shells, phyllo dough and tart shells.

Going Beyond the Board

Club chefs are leveraging the artistry of sausage-making and charcuterie to educate and inspire culinary teams, while providing members with distinctive o erings.

By Joanna DeChellis, Director of Editorial and Programming

CHARCUTERIE AND SAUSAGE-MAKING blend artistry with science. Crafting charcuterie involves curing, smoking, fermenting, and aging meats, while sausagemaking encompasses mixing, grinding, and stu ng. Both require a deep understanding of flavors, textures, and the transformative power of time.

Beyond the delicious products that result from these processes, club chefs are discovering the educational and experiential value they bring to their culinary teams and the unique o erings they provide to their members.

For Jeremy Leinen, CEC, Executive Chef of Parkridge Country Club (Rochester, N.Y.), these two disciplines have remarkable staying power, especially as the cost of goods continues to rise.

“Filets, ribeyes and pork chops are expensive, so it makes a ton of sense to showcase these less expensive cuts of meat in ways that underscore the skill of the culinary team,” says Leinen. “Particularly in bar settings, where people are socializing and sharing, charcuterie boards are becoming more and more the focal point. I lived in Chicago just a few blocks from Lardon, a restaurant built almost exclusively on its charcuterie o ering. Talk about being a kid in a proverbial candy store. Bottom line—I think charcuterie is a phenomenal way for club chefs to make a mark on their operation and showcase their skill to their membership while also teaching their teams something artistic and useful.”

SEASONAL SAUSAGES

Leinen tends to play it safe with sausage-making and relies on classic recipes as his guide.

“I use recipes for bratwurst, jagerwurst, and weisswurst as a blueprint and don’t try to push the boundaries too far when I want to nudge recipes in a certain direction,” he says. “Classics are classic for a reason, and they generally

o er the balance you’re probably looking for. That said, you can always swap ingredients in and out—maybe go a little heavier on a certain seasoning if you’re looking for more of this or that. But the classic proportions are typically a great guideline to follow.”

John Comerford, Executive Chef of LaGrange (Ill.) Country Club, agrees and suggests only changing one element each time you want to evolve or refine a product.

“If you’re changing too many things at once, the flavors you’re looking to develop can get lost,” he says. “Be pragmatic and keep good records.”

LaGrange’s culinary team is fortunate to have a steak locker that they’ve turned into a dry-aging box where they plan to hang sausages while the club undergoes various renovations for the next few years.

So far, the most popular sausages at LaGrange have been duck sausage, a 55-day dry-aged beef sausage and a southern-style hotlink. Much like other parts of the menu, Comerford and his Sous Chef, Jason Kurosaki, try to mind seasonality with sausage-making while also finding clever ways to showcase these items for members.

“During our fall wine festival, we created an action station with charcuterie and sausages that complemented many of the wines being featured,” says Comerford. “Members

Justin Field, Executive Chef and Kitchen Manager for Eaglewood Golf Course and Event Center, is known for his innovative charcuterie program that enhances the club’s lunch o erings.

really enjoyed the station because it was not only different than your typical banquet stations but also because they were able to try things they’ve never had before. They were especially proud of the fact that their culinary team made these items in-house.”

Ultimately, sausage-making comes down to member preference and lots of trial and error.

“In every club I’ve ever worked, I always start by introducing the classics first,” says Leinen. “Getting a sausage program off the ground can involve heavy lifting, so don’t complicate it early. Sure, there’s some cool stuff you might see on Instagram, but I can’t tell you how positive the feedback always is when I deliver freshly made breakfast sausage for the first time.

“Most people haven’t tasted fresh sausage with that vibrant flavor,” he continues. “The same goes for bratwurst, Polish or Italian sausages served simply off the grill for a golf event. Members notice the difference without question—and you begin to gain their trust so that eventually they will be more inclined to try something a little less familiar.”

ON BOARD

Charcuterie celebrates the craft of preserving and enhancing the flavors of meats through various techniques like curing, smoking, and aging. Establishing a charcuterie program not only allows club chefs to showcase their skill and creativity but also provides a unique and customizable dining experience that can set the club apart.

For Justin Field, Executive Chef and Kitchen Manager for Eaglewood Golf Course and Event Center (North Salt Lake, Utah), charcuterie has been a game-changer—literally.

“Our members and guests are primarily here for golf,” says Field. “This means most of them each lunch with us. Charcuterie plays a critical part on our menus and allows us to offer a sandwich menu filled with house-made meats unlike anything they’d get elsewhere.”

Field was brought to Eaglewood and given free rein to establish the vision for the club’s culinary program. With so much lunch traffic, Field knew from the get-go that he wanted to create a charcuterie program to take the club’s sandwiches to a new level.

Today, the “lunch meat” at Eaglewood is second to none and includes a Cajun turkey, lamb ham, salami, duck pastrami, Parma ham, soppressata, capicola and more.

“Charcuterie-making can go well beyond charcuterie boards in the bar,” says Field. “Our signature club sandwich is a great example. It features our Cajun turkey on sourdough with lettuce, tomato, onions, avocado, sprouts, and a little mayo. Our golfers love it.”

WHERE TO START

All three club chefs agree that a HACCP plan must be approved before a club can begin a charcuterie program.

“The days of the health department just glossing over this are gone,” says Leinen. “There are consultants that will work with you to build this if you can’t do it yourself, and it will take a lot of the headaches out of the process. It’s not a trivial amount of money, but likely not a deal breaker, so plan for it.”

Beyond that, charcuterie programs start with great butchery work and high-quality ingredients.

“You can’t concentrate what isn’t there,” says Leinen. “Sure, you can make Lonza from a commodity pork loin, but it’s likely to be bland and flavorless. Opting for a quality Berkshire product, or better yet, working with a local farmer, is worth the effort. The flavor will be noticeable in your end product.”

All three chefs agree that the more they lean into charcuterie, the more they rely on tradition.

“The technology and processes haven’t changed,” says Field. “We don’t need to reinvent the wheel. I am glad to see some of the tools, like the curing chambers, coming down in price to make this technique more accessible to all.”

“Honestly, this isn’t the place to try and be creative,” says Leinen. “There are well-established guidelines on proper temps for drying and fermentation, and trying to stray from these offers little reward. Trying to get a consistent result with these items can be tricky enough, so don’t try to get cute with it.”

“Charcuterie and sausage-making are now part of our core repertoire,” says Comerford. “While dining trends will always ebb and flow, sausage and charcuterie have stood the test of time. We believe it’s important for culinarians to learn these techniques to continue offering unique, high-quality products to our members.” C+RC

Beyond California

By

WHEN THINKING OF AMERICAN wine, California often takes the spotlight, but every state in the continental U.S. boasts its own wine production. The history of American winemaking dates back to the 17th century, coinciding with European colonization. Figures like Thomas Je erson attempted to cultivate European grape varieties on American soil but faced challenges. Native rootstocks, resistant to the destructive phylloxera louse, evolved in the U.S., yet were deemed inferior for wine.

Over centuries, American winemakers strived to graft European varieties onto native rootstocks. A breakthrough came in the mid-1800s when Nicholas Longworth produced the first commercially successful sweet sparkling wine from the native Catawba grape.

Despite California’s modern-day prominence, early viticulture pioneers, including German, French, Hungarian and Italian immigrants, played a pivotal role in its rise. Napa Valley and Sonoma Valley became centers for cultivating vinifera varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay.

The diversity of American geography, from the cold climates of New York to the heat of New Mexico, presents an array of grape varieties and wine styles.

While international grape varieties found favor in the West, many Eastern vineyards remained loyal to native varieties or hybrids. Among these, several noteworthy grape varieties beckon the discerning palate as delectable alternatives to mainstream wines.

1. Norton: Distinguished as America’s oldest grape variety, it yields a full-bodied red wine characterized by firm acidity and a spicy profile.

2. Catawba: Primarily employed in the production of white and rosé wines, it imparts crisp berry flavors with subtle spicy undertones.

3. Chambourcin: A teinturier grape variety, its juice is naturally red, resulting in a robustly flavored red wine best served slightly chilled.

4. Muscadine (Scuppernong): Although its small clusters pose challenges for commercial harvest, it produces both red wines imbued with strawberry and sour cherry notes and white wines redolent of banana and bruised apple nuances.

5. Niagara: Yielding a white wine endowed with a grape’s sweet “foxy” character.

These native cultivars continue to evolve as winemakers explore their potential. So, before suggesting that Cabernet Sauvignon to your members, consider introducing them to America’s heritage and taste a piece of history in a glass.

Whether members prefer the bold wines of the West or the Indigenous grapes of the East, America has something special for everyone.

Robert Mancuso, CMC, DipWSET, Contributing Chef Editor

Small Bites Bring Big Delights

By Pamela Brill, Contributing Editor

IN ONE CORNER OF THE BALLROOM

, plates heaped high with mussels fra diavolo and clams casino compete alongside shrimp cocktail shooters. In another spot, chefs dole out fresh pasta with mini meatballs and pesto penne while servers weave through the crowd carrying lambchop lollipops and plump pigs in blankets.

It’s all hands on deck for banquet season when passed and stationed hors d’oeuvres whet the appetites of members and guests. As chefs prepare their menus for weddings, golf tournaments and other catered events, they consider which trends are worth trying out and reveal the most challenging part of pulling o a perfectly paced lineup.

THE MIGHTY MINI

Bigger doesn’t mean better when it comes to creating standout hors d’oeuvres at Friendly Hills Country Club in Whittier, Calif. Executive Chef Peter Phan has been serving up miniature versions of popular dishes more frequently and notices that the pintsized trend continues to demonstrate tremendous staying power.

“People always seem to have an a nity for something familiar, but in a tiny version,” he says of his mini street (“sidewalk”) tacos, mini lobster rolls and bite-sized chicken pot pies.

Before joining Friendly Hills in 2015, Phan was the Executive Chef at SeaCli

Country Club in Huntington Beach, Calif., for four years. His private club experience has enabled him to better understand his customers’ needs as he learns their preferences for passed versus stationed options and incorporates some of his own ideas.

“I create selections seasonally, but I usually like to keep the few popular [ones] all year round,” he adds.

While Phan does not see classic hors d’oeuvres phasing out in favor of new trends, he recognizes the opportunity to revamp tried-and-true favorites into new versions. One example is the charcuterie board, which has gained

traction thanks to social media. “This is a classic that just reinvented itself,” Phan says. “I had my first charcuterie board when I was six: Lunchables.”

Another trend Phan has been seeing is raw or crudo foods, be it ceviche or poke. He counts ahi poke as one of his more popular selections and varies his serving style: on a simple skewer, a wonton chip and marinated in a cool amuse-bouche spoon. In fact, with more foodies using what he deems “culinary buzzwords,” Phan makes a point of peppering in favorites like wagyu, sous vide, hyper-local, smoked, organic and wild-caught when appropriate.

A feast for the senses, hors d’oeuvres help kick o special events with mouthwatering appetizers and eye-catching displays.

Mama Phan’s Wontons (right) require signi

cant time to prepare the lling and stu the wrappers of bulk orders, says Friendly Hills CC Executive Chef Peter Phan (left), but just a few minutes to boil, sauce and garnish during an event.

Balancing trends with server-friendly selections is especially important to Phan. “The goal of an hors d’oeuvre is to create one or two bites full of flavor and texture, and in a banquet setting, you are making numerous amounts of them,” he says.

While extra prep work is permissible, intricate assembly is not. Phan cites his Mama Phan’s Wontons as an example; they can take hours to make the filling and stu the wrappers of bulk orders but require just a few minutes to boil, sauce and garnish.

“The wontons can be made in advance, and sta can typically cook them while doing another task,” he adds. In sharp contrast is a crispy taco with 10 di erent ingredients. “Imagine building 300 of those in a 60-minute cocktail hour,” he says. “If it takes over a minute to garnish a small bite, then it’s just not e cient.”

While Phan may have perfected his hors d’oeuvres playbook, he still wrestles with overall timing. Even with the best-laid plans, he acknowledges that things can—and will—go wrong.

“It’s a challenge when the itinerary doesn’t go as planned,” he says. “The wedding ceremony ended 20 minutes early or late, the speeches went a lot longer or the golf tournament is playing slow.” When these moments creep up, Phan says the only way to handle this is to have a clear line of communication with your crew and restrategize. “It’s simply organized chaos,” he says.

INTERACTIVE AND ENGAGING

Chefs who can tap into their creative side with engaging hors d’oeuvre displays are finding favor with members and guests alike. At Turf Valley Resort in Ellicott City, Md., Executive Chef Dan Schwartz has been dazzling denizens with his ‘Amazing Grazing Table,’ which features a medley of sweet and salty options like green apple shooters, a charcuterie board and chocolate bark.

No stranger to the banquet production space, Schwartz has spent the

past 21 years managing catered a airs, three of which have been at Turf Valley. When planning menus for weddings, galas, and corporate and association events, he and his sta closely examine each item and assess whether it would be best served passed or at a station. Schwartz will tweak his lineup to create an equal balance and typically updates selections once or twice a year.

Another showstopper is Turf Valley’s chef-attended, made-to-order crepe station, teeming with toppings and fillings such as cinnamon apples, mixed berries, chocolate fudge and strawberry compote.

“We enjoy experimenting with the latest trends, especially those that o er a more interactive experience,” says Schwartz. “Our newest specialty stations allow guests to select from a variety of items.”

While refreshing Turf Valley’s hors d’oeuvres menu, Schwartz notes that some old standards aren’t as popular as they once were. “Ice sculptures and raw bars have been phasing out because of the high cost,” he says. Traditional options are more prevalent with passed hors d’oeuvres, including such member favorites as mini chicken and

wa es, caprese bites and shrimp casino. O ering a wide variety also allows Schwartz to appeal to those attendees with dietary needs.

“Our goal is always to ensure the highest quality in our food and beverage and preserve the taste and temperature of the item,” he notes.

Even with such attention to detail, chefs must do their best to ensure a smooth event execution and avoid potential setbacks. To have a su cient supply of hors d’oeuvres on hand, Schwartz has devised a simple formula: one passed selection per person, two station items per person and three seafood items per person “because of their popularity,” he says—“for example, our mini crab cakes.”

Schwartz likes to balance passed and stationed options and may add or remove items as needed.

Because no catered event is complete without a memorable finish, Schwartz carries his hors d’oeuvres expertise over to the dessert table. A display of mini Mason jars is filled with cookie dough, lemon bars, cookies and cream, and strawberry shortcake—the makings of a happy ending to any memorable meal. C+RC

Among his sweet and savory displays, Turf Valley Resort Executive Chef Dan Schwartz (left) o ers mini Mason jars lled with cookie dough, lemon bars, cookies and cream, and strawberry shortcake (right).

The Decline of Member Etiquette

Cullasaja Club’s Executive Chef calls for re ection and respect.

By Scott Craig, WCMC, Contributing Editor

AS I STOOD IN the crowded formal dining room of a prestigious club in the Southeast, the chronically overserved member at the table was in the middle of her rant, while her husband absently nodded along. “This isn’t fit to serve a dog,” she said. “Not only that, but I hate the canned chili that you use on hot dogs [we made it from scratch], and everything that you serve is frozen [it wasn’t]. Are you all that short-sta ed in the kitchen?” Many club chefs have experienced this member, and the number of them seems to be multiplying at an alarming rate.

According to Mark Bado, MCM, COO of Mizner Country Club (Delray Beach, Fla.), clubs are facing several challenges, but the most pressing is membership behavior, especially as it relates to a clubs’ ability to maintain sta ng levels.

“It has become awful in nearly all clubs,” he says of the industry. “Entitlement, due in part to rising initiation dues, has led to behavior that disrespects sta members and has even led to physical altercations with fellow members. Many seem to have lost a sense of self-awareness while becoming hyper-aware and critical of their fellow members and sta .”

Country clubs have long been associated with prestige, luxury, and exclusivity. These private enclaves o er their members an escape from the hustle

and bustle of everyday life, providing access to top-notch facilities, recreational activities, and networking opportunities. However, behind the lush landscapes and elegant facades, there is a disturbing undercurrent of poor behavior exhibited by members. This article sheds light on the need for reflection, respect, and a return to the values that once upheld the integrity of these cherished institutions.

BASIC ETIQUETTE

One primary reason for the deterioration of behavior is the diminishing emphasis on etiquette, partly driven by generational change and an acceptance of casual culture. Private clubs exist as microcosms of the larger world, and as our world becomes increasingly casual and polarized by social and political issues, so too do clubs. Traditionally, these establishments have upheld a set of social rules and customs that ensure an atmosphere of decorum and civility. Sadly, many newer members have forgotten—or ignore—these etiquettes Older members, perhaps facing waning influence in their club’s direction or wistful for a previous iteration of their club and the experiences it o ered, participate in this behavior as well.

According to several private club General Managers, examples of

rude behavior across generations have taken many shapes, including loud and boisterous conversations in dining areas, leaving golf carts in inappropriate places, and ignoring dress codes. Such actions not only tarnish the club’s reputation but also impact the overall experience of fellow members. These seemingly innocuous behaviors can evolve if left unchecked, becoming permissive examples.

BREEDING ENTITLEMENT

The exclusivity of country clubs can sometimes, understandably, lead to a sense of entitlement among their members. Those who belong to such elite circles may feel that they are immune to the consequences of their actions. This entitlement can manifest in condescending attitudes toward sta and fellow members, as well as a lack of consideration for shared facilities.

The mistreatment of sta members is concerning. Housekeeping, maintenance, and service sta are essential to the smooth functioning of a club, yet they sometimes endure disrespectful behavior, belittlement, and poor treatment from members. This lack of empathy, which can manifest in overtly punitive behaviors, demonstrates a significant departure from the values of mutual respect and appreciation.

An unnamed and well-respected club manager at a prestigious club in southern Florida recently demonstrated what it looks like when a General Manager stands up to unruly members in support of a department head. When his executive chef faced withering messages from their membership in his first few weeks of employment, the GM addressed the behavior at a Town Hall meeting to abruptly put a stop to the unfounded criticisms.

“Common courtesy is no longer common” he said. “[We must foster] a culture that embraces the men and women who provide services. Leadership requires intestinal fortitude, and as leaders, we must walk the walk. We can’t say that all employees matter [if] our breakroom is located in a closet.”

When asked about the aftermath of his blunt address to the membership, he said that the “silent majority were no longer silent,” as members celebrated the calling-out of problematic peers, and club sta rallied behind the manager.

EXCESSIVE INDULGENCE

The presence of alcohol can exacerbate unruly behavior, disrupting the tranquility clubs o er members. Overindulgence can also lead to incidents of drunk driving, posing serious safety risks. Clubs must take measures to

ensure responsible consumption and enforce strict rules.

A SHIFT IN CLUB CULTURE

Over time, there has been a gradual shift in the culture within some clubs. Instead of fostering an environment of unity, some members have become overly competitive and focused on status, leading to tensions and clashes. According to Bado, examples of this shift include heated arguments over golf scores, inappropriate comments during social events, and instances of snobbery and cliquishness. Such behavior not only alienates fellow members but also undermines the purpose of these clubs as places of relaxation and enjoyment.

A POSSIBLE WAY FORWARD

Clubs have served as esteemed establishments, providing a sanctuary of luxury and relaxation. However, behavior exhibited by some threatens the integrity of these institutions.

As an old friend and well-respected pastry chef once told me, “We’re all here by choice.” According to the Chamber of Commerce, the national quit rate for the hospitality industry has topped 4.9% since July 2021, far greater than the falling national average of 2.6%. Hospitality faced challenges in sta ng well before COVID; increased hostilities toward sta

have exacerbated the issue.

The dressing down that I experienced at the outset of this article was part of my own motivation to seek employment elsewhere. The determining factor in choosing my present, and hopefully permanent, place of employment was based on a healthy culture and sound leadership, a pivot from my prior focus on national ranking and compensation.

My new General Manager, Chris Conner, CCM, of Cullasaja Club (Highlands, N.C.), explains the steps of creating a healthy club culture:

1. Reinforce Etiquette: Prioritize education and reminders on the importance of adhering to etiquette. Seminars and workshops on social decorum can reinforce a club’s values, as well as messaging in town halls and bulletin articles.

2. Zero Tolerance Policy: Implement a zero-tolerance policy for disrespectful behavior toward sta or fellow members. Enforce consequences for breaches of conduct.

3. Alcohol Management: Enact strict rules for alcohol consumption, including mandatory training on responsible drinking and monitoring distribution.

4. Community Building: Promote a sense of community and inclusivity by organizing events that encourage interaction among members, fostering a culture of friendship and mutual respect.

5. Vetting Potential Members:

Having potential members join the club for a trial period, to understand if they are a cultural fit, can bolster the club’s financial position during slow seasons and ensure cultures remain intact.

It’s crucial for members, sta , and management to recognize the gravity of this issue, its impact on sta ng and sustainability, and take proactive steps to address it. By reinforcing etiquette, curbing entitlement, managing alcohol, and promoting a culture of unity, clubs can reclaim their place as beacons of elegance and respect. Only through our collective e orts can these exclusive enclaves continue to be cherished spaces for generations to come. C+RC

How Pelican Isle YACHT CLUB’S GM Leverages Her F&B Experience

Pelican Isle YC’s new Executive Chef, Roger Anderhalden, was chosen by GM Alisha Feezor, who discusses his suitability and anticipated challenges and opportunities.

By Isabelle Gustafson, Senior Editor

AFTER A MONTHS-LONG SEARCH for the perfect candidate, Pelican Isle Yacht Club (Naples, Fla.) hired Roger Anderhalden as its Executive Chef. Anderhalden previously held the position of Executive Chef at The Mediterra Beach Club, also in Southwest Florida.

“[Anderhalden] was a terrific find for us,” says General Manager Alisha Feezor. “Not only did he fit the profile of our ideal candidate, but he was also a pleasure to work with throughout the search and hiring process.”

In addition to his technical skills and culinary background, Feezor adds, Anderhalden possesses strong problem-solving abilities and communication skills—qualities she deems essential in a chef, influenced in part by her own background. Before joining Pelican Isle, Feezor served in the Army for eight years. When she joined the club, she spent four years as Food and Beverage Manager before assuming the role of GM in 2016.

Club + Resort Chef (C+RC): How does your F&B background impact the way you lead as a GM?

Alisha Feezor (AF): It’s helpful to have firsthand experience; it gives credibility with the board, and it has helped me advocate for those departments.

I have an appreciation for the type of support they need, whether it’s equipment, resources, specific communication, guidance. I also have

a good relationship with the [F&B] department heads. The Assistant F&B Director moved up into the department head role. We had a system already in place, so it was a seamless transition.

C+RC: What challenges and opportunities will Chef encounter?

AF: We are still recovering from damages sustained from Hurricane Ian in 2022. In addition to getting to know each of our culinary team members and participating in the planning of our upcoming season, [Chef] will be active in the ongoing capital projects and planning as well as placing high emphasis on creating a great member experience after a very challenging year.

The members are excited and ready to enjoy their club. [Chef] is walking into an environment where everyone is primed for a great experience.

C+RC: You’ve been at Pelican Isle for 10 years. How has F&B evolved?

AF: We’ve made three impactful changes. First, we’ve started using the H-2B program for our seasonal workers, and we are now properly staffed.

Second, we hired an event manager. We do very little outside weddings or corporate events. But even in a smaller operation, you need a dedicated person to spend time on the details for those events so you can deliver a ‘wow’ experience.

Third, like many other clubs, we’ve shifted toward casual dining. We are developing a master facility plan that’ll guide our operation for the next five to 10 years. We’re evaluating ultra-casual dining solutions to continue to meet member expectations in our amenity areas: resort-style pool, bocce courts, tennis, and pickleball.

C+RC: In what other ways do you support the culinary team?

AF: I’m big on making sure they have the tools and the resources they need. I try to spend time back there so I can empathize with their challenges. Sometimes there are little things that are easy to solve—the hot water heater temperature is not set properly or the gasket on the oven is leaking—it just takes the right person to solve it. C+RC

Pelican Isle YC’s General Manager Alisha Feezor (right) hired Executive Chef Roger Anderhalden (left) to lead the club’s culinary program.

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