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City Break:
Taipei
This month we hop over to Taipei for a spot of shopping, spa, eating out and to check in at some of the city’s trendiest places to stay... Tina Hsiao and Jules Kay
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Now in its centennial year, Taiwan has plenty to celebrate. Once known more for its cheap electronics than high-end hotels and glittering malls, China’s estranged sibling is quickly reinventing itself as one of Asia’s most dynamic cities. The capital Taipei now tempts sophisticated city breakers with a rich blend of cosmopolitan indulgences that encapsulates the best in top brand retail, culinary excellence and cultural charm. Our first contact with W Taipei comes via the booking confirmation email we received – talk of rooms “selling hot” and offers to grant our “wildest dreams”, plus a signature tag at the bottom of the email asking “Are You Spectacular?” I think to myself, “Well, my better half and my mother surely think I’m alright…” Before launching into an introspective evaluation, we continue packing, somewhat comforted by the fact that the W has to be pretty special to have the audacity to ask me that, right? We land in the evening at Taoyuan International Airport, just outside Taipei County, and make our way downtown. Some 40 minutes later, we arrive in Xinyi District, where the W Taipei is situated, and are received by a fanfare of tall swanky buildings draped with kaleidoscopic neon lights dancing a welcome number, suggesting that we’re in the most happening area of the city. W Hotels is Starwood’s design-led lifestyle brand, and the Taipei property is no exception. Rising 31 storeys above the vibrant neighborhood that the iconic Taipei 101 also calls home, W Taipei is designed by UK-based GA Design International with the narrative of ‘Nature Electrified’, a concept reflective of the hotel’s location, surrounded by mountains and lush national parks. A natural theme is also infused into its 405 guestrooms and suites, with warm colored stones, burnished wood, floral carpeting and standing lamps that resemble the silhouettes of trees and contrast
with bright neon acrylic bathroom divider walls and colorful furniture accent pieces. On the technology side, rooms also feature wall-mounted 42-inch flat-screen televisions hooked up to Bose sound systems and an iPod charging dock. The semi-open bathroom has a rainshower and a separate bathtub, with luxurious Bliss Spa bath amenities sinkside to wash away the city after a day of urban adventures. A curiously named ‘Munchie Box’ is packed full of an eclectic assortment of goodies, edible and otherwise – snacks, mints, a game keychain, a pair of fishnet stockings, a W music CD compilation, a tube of lip balm, and a glow stick. In short, everything a cosmopolitan W-generation guest would need. No Tylenols
or the likes for the hangover mornings, but you can always break open the three-pack of pure oxygen inhalers and suck on one of those. Facilities outside the room include ‘Wet’, a long infinity pool with a deckside bar and barbecue grill, ‘SWEAT’, a fully-equipped fitness center (the biggest one we’ve seen in a hotel), and the tranquil ‘AWAY’ Spa offering pampering treatments fit for rockstars. Remarking on the W Hotels tagline before bed-time, checking off the list one by one, we have to agree: Yes we ate, drank, flirted (with each other, that is), sipped, and savored. And lastly, although the constant hotel soundtrack was a little confusing at times, we were definitely wowed.
we are received by a fanfare of tall swanky buildings draped with kaleidoscopic neon lights dancing a welcome number, suggesting that we’re in the most happening area of the city
All pictures: W Taipei
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Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon
Yen Restaurant at W Taipei
Spoilt for Choice
Bellavita Mall
We wake up earlier than by normal holiday standards, eager to get a head-start and to meet with the charismatic Charlie Lin, the official ‘W Insider’ (concierge). She suggests we get orientated with the surrounding areas first, so we start with the neighboring Bellavita Mall. As the story goes, three sisters wanted a coffee shop, so their father obliged – and built a shopping center to house it too. Bellavita is one of the ultra-malls in Taiwan, an oval-shaped building with natural light streaming through the skylight dome onto ornate hanging flower installations above an open atrium. The neoclassic façade, complete with Grecian arches and pillars, houses’ luxury
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brands like Hermès, Bulgari, Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Van Cleef & Arpels and Tiffany & Co. A gourmet food hall on the basement floor is more like a collection of upscale eateries, but Bellavita’s culinary hotshot comes in the form of Joël Robuchon. Claiming bragging rights as chef with most Michelin stars (26 at last count), Monsieur Robuchon puts his name on two outlets in Bellavita; the renowned L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon, and a slightly more casual Salon de Thé de Joël Robuchon. After caffeine and some decadent macaroons, we get the bill only to be told that we didn’t meet the minimum spend! Indignant, we do our maths, purchase a snack for the road, and continue on our way. We climb onto the Xinyi Circle Sky Corridor at the adjacent Shingkong Mitsukoshi department store, one of four along the relatively short elevated walkway. All the Shinkong malls are numbered according to their land plot numbers, with A4, A8, A9, and A11 rising back to back, casting a large retail net and luring consumers with brightly lit windows displaying the latest fashions and buy-me items. A9 is the tallest, so we head into that one for a quick reconnaissance. Breezing past Montblanc, Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, Vivienne Westwood and Armani, we get the gist and get back on the corridor. A few steps later, we find ourselves at the base of the Taipei 101, the second tallest building in the world. We strain our necks tracing the architectural giant 509 meters from the ground up, its blue-green glass panels and external ruyi motifs glistening in the sun. The adjacent six-storey mall promises more window shopping, so we make a beeline there. Reading the names on the stores is
a bit like flipping through the double page ads at the beginning of fashion magazines. The glamour brands continue: Dior, Versace, Kenzo, Dolce & Gabbana, Givenchy, Fendi, Prada, Miu Miu and Loro Piana. Amongst the impressive – and extensive – list of retailers in Taipei 101 are several luxury jewelry and watch heavy hitters: Piaget, Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe, Cartier, Chopard, De Beers and Vertu. Though we were discouraged to ascend to the observation deck on the 91st floor due to the sea of tourists all with the same intention, our scout around Xinyi Circle Sky Corridor was complete. The conclusion? If you’re looking to go shopping, the four Shingkong Mitsukoshi department stores, Bellavita, or the Taipei 101 Mall are bound to have what you’re looking for.
Orgastronomic Bites A recent story on CNNGo caused displeasure with Taiwan legislators for naming Taipei as the best city in Asia to indulge in gluttony. With endless choices of exquisite high-end dining and mouthwatering street food, we felt the title was a compliment to the city’s gastronomic landscape. During our stay, we managed far more than the recommended three meals a day, and still only scratched the surface of the city’s culinary delights. The street eats are excitingly touch and go, but by following the rule of thumb that eating from the stalls with the longest queues is always best, nothing disappointed. We even managed to squeeze in two dinner dates, one at the W, and another at Hana Twinpeaks.
Imperial Hot and Sour Lobster Soup , Yen Restaurant at W Taipei
We notice the head chef slicing up our slabs of meat, and before we know it, thin slices of medium-rare juiciness appear on our plates Yen is W Taipei’s signature Cantonese fine dining venue, and the first W-inspired Chinese restaurant in the world. The culinary consultant to the eatery is author and celebrated Chef Jereme Leung, who in his illustrious career has worked with Shanghai Tang to develop the fashion house’s world debut café concept. Circular sofas and private dining rooms section off intimate corners in an otherwise expansive restaurant, which commandeers the entire 31st floor along with the a separate bar with the same name. After night falls, dark toned walls take backstage as the mesmerizing lights of the city skyline stream in through six-meter high floor-to-ceiling windows. Plate presentations showcase traditionsold authentic cuisine to tickle both visual and gustatory senses, making for a remarkable meal. An after-dinner drink at sleek Yen Bar, with its hypnotizing vistas of the colossal Taipei 101, offers one of the best spots in the city for a nightcap. On another night, we try teppanyaki at Hana Twinpeak. Not having the foresight to make reservations, we wait with a drink in the separate lounge room, settling in plush leather sofas and enjoying the music being played
from the baby grand piano in the corner. Shortly after, we are ushered to a table with three other couples. The restaurant has two shared tables, each with a chef captaining the steaming griddle, with private dining booths on the sides for larger groups, each too with a chef assigned to the hot plates. We both opt for the beef sirloin dinner set, which comes with a choice of soup, garlic bread, and a small garden salad for appetizers. The soup was creamy, the garlic bread very buttery, and with the greens thrown in for healthy measure, appetites whet, we are ready for our main course. We study the head chef as he masterfully cooks our starters of plump prawns, mushrooms, and vegetables. As we dig in, we notice him out of the corner of our eyes, slicing up our slabs of meat, and before we know it, thin slices of medium-rare juiciness appear on our plates. After our hearty meal, we retire back to the lounge to polish off our dinner with a small slice of tiramisu and a coffee, all part of the dinner set. The lounge is wonderful, as was the entire meal and the on-table cooking exhibition, although next time we will probably choose a restaurant where we did not have to share a table with strangers.
Sheep herder in Gozo (Picture by Clive Vella)
Yen Restaurant at W Taipei
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All pictures: Villa 32, Beitou
Hotel Éclat
Splendid Surrealism After taking a few days off for a relaxing trip to Sun Moon Lake (the country’s largest, located in central Taiwan) we check back into the bustling capital and Hotel Éclat, a member of the Small Luxury Hotels of The World. The 60-room boutique hotel is located on a shady street, right next to a swish Louis Vuitton boutique. We arrive two hours earlier than their standard check-in time, so with luggage left at reception, we take a quick tour around the property. Ming Yuen, the hotel’s signature restaurant, serving Cantonese cuisine with show jade tableware, takes up the entire basement level. Unlike most hotel restaurants, this is more like a cozy living room in an art collector’s house, cluttered – in the most impressive sense of the word – with showcase items from the Hong Kong entrepreneur owner’s personal art and furniture collection. A circular dining pod offers
Pan African Market, Long Street
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intimate dining behind sheen curtains, and a private room off the side features red velvet covered chairs, a flat-screen television and more art, including an original Andy Warhol painting of HM Queen Elizabeth II, aptly titled ‘The Queen’. Heads spinning with the sheer amount of art on display, we decide to see if our rooms are ready. Only during the second visit to the reception counter do we notice the JeanJacques Henner sfumato painting on the wall behind. As we wait for the lift, we read the plaque at the base of two towering gold sculptures flanking the elevator doors, and learn they are works by the great Spanish artist Salvador Dalí. Perhaps more famous for his eccentricity and surrealist paintings, but the pair of statues alone are worth some US$ 1.75 million. All rooms at Hotel Éclat feature original artwork by Chinese contemporary artist
Left and right: Hotel Éclat
Tang Yuenhei, 42-inch flat-screens, Bang & Olufsen audio systems, bedside digital frames, Nespresso coffee machines, Montblanc desk sets and pens, desk chairs designed by Philippe Starck, and Riedel glassware sitting exquisitely by the minibar. Bathrooms feature rainshowers with separate bathtubs in select room types, small LCD television sets, Molton Brown amenity sets, and a glass wall which can be frosted over or defrosted at the touch of a switch to provide uninterrupted views into the room itself. Overall, our stay at Hotel Éclat went smoothly. There are some eyebrow-raising titles in the list of complimentary DVD rentals in-suite that we thought blatant to list so publicly in a hotel filled with such divine art. Other than that, free Wi-Fi access throughout the property was refreshing, and the free-flow of drinks and canapés during the invitation-only ‘GM’s Sunset Hour’ in the small George’s Bar on the second floor was a nice personal touch.
Boil and Bubble Leg muscles aching from street stomping around the city, we decided to head to Beitou district, well-known for its healing hot springs. We first take a quick detour to drop into the hot spring museum to learn more about the history of the place. The name Beitou originates from ‘Kipatauw’ meaning ‘witch’, dubbed by the indigenous Ketagalan tribe who once inhabited this area, and a fitting moniker based on the geothermal valley’s similarities with a Macbethian cauldron. Villa 32 is an idyllic hot spring hideaway, featuring both shared and private hot spring pools, spa, sauna, steam room, meditative Zen room, a lounge, and a dimmed relaxation room with semi private corners and plush recliners. The Relais & Châteaux hot spring spa hotel took four years to build, with great care taken to work around the towering camphor and maple trees, ensuring a calming equilibrium between the four elements of water, wood, tree, and stone. There are also five suite accommodations, which can be booked for a few hours for a cosseted soak in the gold-veined black marble pool beneath open skies. In the 1998 blockbuster Armageddon, the cosmonaut Lev Andropov grumbles, “American components, Russian components, all made in Taiwan!” Despite being Taiwan-born, I too once thought the cities on this island country were grey and industrial, albeit full of smart people cleverly assembling parts in hi-tech products. But I was wrong. Wide tree-lined avenues and generous parkland breathe life into Tapei’s urban haze, while an intriguing combination of restored colonial mansions and futuristic skyscrapers house everything from dumpling shops to Dean & Deluca, Fendi to fine art. After a few days exploring Taipei’s diverse delights and distractions, we understood exactly why Portuguese settlers chose to name the island ‘Ilha Formosa’. 2 The Winelands
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TRAVEL ESSENTIALS Illesteva
Eugenia Kim
Where to Stay
DINING OUT
W Taipei (www.wtaipei.com) Located in the happening CBD, this swanky 405-room hotel boasts super-sized facilities and caters to a hip clientele who appreciate music and design.
L’Atelier de Joël Robuchon World renowned eatery by the most Michelin starred chef in the world. A ten-course tasting menu will set you back 7,300 baht per person. (www.joel-robuchon.net)
Le Méridien (www.lemeridien-taipei.com) Also situated in the dynamic heart of town, this contemporary 160-room hotel offers elegant facilities and numerous art collectables on display. Hotel Éclat (www.eclathotels.com/taipei) The 60-room boutique hotel-cum-art gallery, although lacking some hotel facilities due to its intimate size, features exquisite in-room amenities and other guest benefits.
SPA AND WELLNESS Just 40 minutes from the city center, Beitou is a popular destination for its hot springs, many of which also offer fancy spas. For those wanting to stay closer to home, most bigger hotels also offer pampering services, and there are many standalone day spas around town, perfect for a soothing escape from the urban race.
Hana Twinpeak Classy teppanyaki with a separate lounge, but with shared table seating, not ideal for a date. Expect to pay around 5,300 baht for two set dinners with drinks. (www.twinpeak.com.tw) The Three Cities (Pictured by Clive Vella)
Yen High-end Cantonese dining on the 31st floor of W Taipei. Depending on what you order, around 3,700 baht for two excluding drinks.
Villa 32 Hot Springs (www.villa32.com)
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Bridge on the River Kwai
Globe-Trotter
Yves Saint Laurent Isabel Marant Gucci
RECOMMENDED TAKE-ALONGs Whether you’d be scouring Taipei’s malls and markets for bargains, or hopping around the city to take in famous sights, don’t forget to take along a fashionable bag, comfortable shoes and something to keep you warm (even air-conditioned malls can get chilly at times). Just because you’re a tourist doesn’t mean you have to look like one!
There is no shortage of places in Taipei to indulge in a bit of retail therapy, everything from 24-hour bookstores to Japanese street fashion and luxury brands coveted the world over.
Qi Shiseido Salon and Spa (www.qispa.com.tw)
Radium Kagaya Hot Springs (www.kagaya.com.tw)
Wanhua District Home to Ximending, the center of youth subculture, Japanese culture, and teen fashion in the city. The pedestrian-only shopping neighborhood has been compared with Shibuya in Japan, where the beautiful and the brash congregate on weekends to wear their individualities on their sleeves.
SHOPPING
petit Spa L’Occitane (www. loccitane.com.tw)
THANN Sanctuary (www.thann.info)
Da’an District One of the city’s five Sogo Department Stores is located in this leafy neighborhood, as is the 24-hour Eslite Bookstore, a massive building which also has a shop and a café. Nearby Breeze Center is an upscale mall, housing cinemas and the country’s only Dean & Deluca.
Xinyi District The relatively newly developed part of Taipei is home to several slick shopping centers, including Bellavita, Shingkong Misukoshi (x 4), and Taipei 101. This month, another mall – ATT4Fun – will also be joining the ranks of the Xinyi mall pack. Jet Airways Business Class
Night Markets Taipei is home to at least six major night markets, with smaller versions of the street markets in many neighborhoods. The majority of them open daily from about 5pm to 2am, and the atmosphere is noisy and crowded, especially during peak hours between 8pm to 10pm. Storefronts and road-side stalls hawk a variety of inexpensive clothes and accessories. Some of the best street food is found in the markets’ small eateries and on push carts selling specialty local delicacies. Visit at least one to feel the vibe and try the street eats for a uniquely Taiwanese experience. We recommend: Shilin NM (the biggest and most crowded of them all, with an adjacent covered food court boasting over 500 stalls), Shida NM (a younger vibe due to its proximity to universities and cool shops selling trendy items), and Raohe NM (the oldest night market in Taipei, with a more laidback feel and a flea market selling second-hand goods).
Gucci
Bottega Veneta
Valextra Burberry Prorsum
Lanvin
Louis Vuitton
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