Rails & Tales
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hammocks instead, and relaxed as Gabriel snapped photos of the local horse that roamed freely about, the chickens, and a picturesque bridge near the boat launch. We were waiting for the tide to rise high enough to allow the boat to come pick us up. 7am brought the sound of the boat’s motor, and we eagerly gathered our bags and started down the cobblestone path to the boat launch. Doug (surf guide) and Irvin (boat captain) greeted us. We piled in and were off for a watery, rain-drenched ½ hour ride down a winding, twisting river, surrounded by thick jungle, leading to the open ocean. Majestic outcroppings of black rocks and small islands dotted the horizon everywhere. After 15 minutes, we could finally see the Morro Negrito Surf Camp up ahead, with its bright orange bungalows dotted against the deep green and uninhabited landscape. The rain began to let up SLIGHTLY as we arrived on shore where a handful of staff greeted us and proceeded to carry ALL our bags and boards up to the camp- what service! A short 3 minute walk later, and we had arrived at camp, soaked to the bone, but stoked on our adventure as we followed our guides to our individual rooms. Well groomed trails seem to lead in all directions, each to its own small bungalow, and since Dan and I were the only couple on the trip, we got to stay in the family room, which was farthest from shore, but also had its own private lanai and bathroom, and the best view! Smooth, round, black rocks tumbled in and out with the shoreline break- a mere 25 yards below, and the bungalow overlooked Emily’s… a nice little left that was dependant on the tide levels, but always a fun way to catch a few more waves before dinner, when you needed just one more! Emily’s was unique in that you could surf it ANYTIME you wanted since you didn’t need a boat to get to it, and your friends could watch you surf from the nearby openaired dining room or hammocks. It was like having your own cheering section! That first day in we took much needed naps, and woke to the sound of the lunch bell (love that sound every morning, afternoon and night!). After a filling meal, Christina, Dan and I loaded up the boat with the boards, accompanied by Doug (surf guide), and Eric (boat captain), and we left in search of surf. Morro Negrito Surf Camp is awesome in that there are all styles of waves available. The staff made sure we knew which spots we were surfing, and where they were on the large map drawn on the dining room wall... offering a buffet of
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waves and conditions. You have ankle-kissing baby waves near the boat launch (Elijah’s), Emily’s- the smaller break directly in front of the camp, and Snickers—which soon became one of our favorite waves. Snickers is a solid beach break, canvassed by a mile-long black sand beach, and gets REALLY good on a rising tide (lefts and rights). El Toro (the bull) is another great wave, nestled between giant, foliage covered black rocks, and offering a punchy left or right that looks like it’s going to break right on shore—yet you rarely touch the sandy bottom. There are more advanced waves available- on the right swell- such as Nestles (we didn’t get to surf this spot since it only breaks when it gets over 15ft). Nestles is apparently a death defying drop, into an extremely shallow, boulder-filled, ocean bottom— and just waiting to teach you a lesson. We’re told this is a pop-up fast- while air-dropping into a stand-up barrel that shoots you like a rocket out of the danger zone. No shoulder to speak of on this wave AT ALL. Yikes! Lastly, you also have the ever popular Point, which was close to camp, and offered heaving barrels galore. Less sketchy than Nestles, this was the spot to hone your barrel riding skills, without the crowd. At the Point, a steep and dedicated takeoff is mandatory, and there’s no avoiding the closeout by going for a doggy-door here either. On the waves that barreled, you had to ride into a closeout almost every time, or pay your dues on the shallow, rock-infested inside, that sits mercilessly near a steep, un-scalable cliff. Not the friendliest conditions, but a magnificent wave to say the least. While the Point was FUN we later found out, it also drew most of the other 10 surfers at camp, and after living in Hawaii and dealing with crowds, this spot wasn’t at the top of our list. After all, we were in Panama to surf waves all to ourselves, without hassling with lineups or overly aggressive paddle-battlers. Instead, our crew usually opted for Snickers, which hosted 6’-10’+ wave, after wave, after beautiful glassy wave, after another. As with any surf spot in Panama, the tide really affects the breaks, so on our first day in, we chose the Rock, which was just that… a little rock sticking out of the ocean, that peeled a fun right-hander, with a sometimes, make-able section. Coming from Hawaii, this little wave was a lot of fun to play around on, and I got a serious wake-up call when I caught the rail of my board… squarely on the right jaw. Hearing an alarming crack and fearing the worse I checked my teeth—they were still all there. (Praise God!) An immediate froggy appeared though and cuts lined
Christina and Jordan, practicing their own “surf duet”. They met here in Panama, were inseparable, and have been dating ever since. NICE! Photos: SecretSurf007.com Dan and Sarah at Emily’s