SCREAMS ORANGES! IVREA CARNIVAL

by Masase Tempia

The Ivrea Carnival is the oldest historical carnival of Italy. Its primary rites of medieval origin were handed down orally until 1808. During the event, the community of Ivrea celebrates its capacity for self-determination, recalling an episode of liberation from the tyranny of medieval memory. Best known for the spectacular “Battle of the Oranges”, which unfolds over three days in the city’s main squares, the Carnival of Ivrea features a complicated ceremony that incorporates various eras and culminates in a historical parade.

The star of the show is the Beautiful Mugnaia (Miller’s Daughter), a symbol of freedom and the festival’s heroine since her first appearance in 1858. Alongside her are the General, from the time of Napoleon, who leads the brilliant General Staff. According to legend, it was the heroism of Violetta, a miller’s daughter, which freed the people from tyranny. Rebelling against the “droit du seigneur” that the Marquess insisted upon, Violetta killed him with his own sword. The famous Battle of the Oranges recalls this uprising.

As a sign of their participation in the festival, all citizens and visitors take to the streets from Fat Thursday onwards on the orders of the General, while wearing the classic Berretto Frigio. This red hat, shaped like a stocking, is a symbol of solidarity with the uprising and therefore the pursuit of liber ty, just as it was during the French Revolution. Most significanctly, oranges are thrown at you if you’re not wearing a red hat, the most recognizable (and messy!) aspect of the festival today.

Our Physical Education teacher, Matteo Battuello, is from Ivrea and has participated in the carnival annually since he was 15. He describes it in this way: “The whole town is transformed and everything becomes magical”. Mr. Battuello is also a member of ‘the aces of spades’, the oldest of the 9 teams that shoot on foot in the main square of the city. His team represents the common people who fight against those in carts who symbolise tyranny. When he was a kid, Mr. Battuello didn’t fully understand the spirit of the carnival, but with time he recognized it as “a celebration of togetherness”. He began to participate as an “arancere”, a carnival participant who throws the oranges, which is not to be taken lightly. Aranceri throw hard, and this makes participants easily susceptible to injuries. However, the worst he’s ever gotten was a black eye, which he says nonchalantly is “a yearly occurrence”.

The traditions involved in the Ivrea Carnival are many, but the most important one is the public display of togetherness that Mr. Battuello refers to. The town literally comes together in its streets and squares and brings history to life by celebrating their birth as a free city. Mr. Battuello wears that civic pride every year in the form of a red hat…and black eye.

If you want to see the sight for yourself then visit Ivrea next carnival, but just remember to wear your Berretto Frigio!