WORLDCHEFS – RUSSIAN CUISINE
9
DISHES
KRÓSHKA
RUSSIAN
TO TRY
CHICKEN KIEV
This is a dish that can divide, as both the French and the Russians lay claim to it.
The French believe that the recipe for Chicken Kiev was taken from France during the reign of Empress Elizabeth, and that chef Nicolas Appert invented the dish called “de-vollay” at that time. The Russian claim that the dish was invented later. They say that in 1912 a Russian cook prepared very tasty dish that was named “Mikailovsky”, as the Mikhailovsky Palace was close to the restaurant where the chicken rolls were served for the first time. The dish was forgotten after the revolution but the recipe made its way to Ukraine. In 1947, one of the chefs from Kiev, the capital of Ukraine, decided to prepare this dish for the reception of the Ukrainian delegation from Paris. It gained instant success and is another dish that has gained international stardom. In Russia, this dish can easily be found in restaurant menus.
The name of the soup is derived from the Russian verb ‘kroshitj’, which means to crumble into small pieces and this soup probably has medieval heritage. It was over time that the recipe was adapted and improved, and it was also believed that barge haulers who worked on rivers added dried fish and kvass to the soup, so the fish is softened.
VARENYE In Russia, it is a popular tradition to make jam at home out of strawberry, apricots, cherry, raspberry and other fruits and berries of the season. Varenye is a traditional Russian homemade jam, and is part and parcel of Russian life. Varenye is different from jam, as it is considered a delicacy made of fruits or berries cooked with sugar. The ingredients are soaked with syrup but they do not lose their shape or are overcooked. Jam is a dessert, obtained by boiling fruits or berries until smooth gelatinous mass. A traditional tea party in Russia will definitely have varenye served up. Historians also believe that this dessert is a Russian national dish. Varenye was also loved by some of the Russian tsars. It’s known that Catherine II was very fond of gooseberry jam while Ivan the Terrible had a passion for cucumber jam! In Russia, every family has its own ‘secrets’ of varenye making. Most popular and beloved home-made jam include strawberry, cherry, apricot, raspberry, cranberry, walnut, blueberry.
34 WORLDCHEFS MAGAZINE
What does one do to ensure the sweltering summer heat? For the Russians, cold soup, such as króshka, is the answer. The main ingredients include diced raw vegetables, boiled meat, eggs and potatoes, and is served with kvas (a popular Russian fermented drink made from black rye) and sour cream.
BLINY Bliny’s best partner is often the much coveted caviar, but there are multiple variations of ways to enjoy this Russian pancake or crepe. Prepared for different occasions, they are enjoyed throughout the day – as a snack, main course or dessert. You can serve them with sour cream, honey, salmon, caviar and any other ingredients. A true bliny is the size of a plate, and not the small, delicate rounds, which are known as “oladyi” instead. A week before Lent (otherwise known as “Maslenitsa”), blinys are especially popular as they are also regarded as a symbol of the sun.
