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route of the
Living Maya
By Gigi Ragland
December 21, 2012. All of the hoopla around this much-misunderstood end of the Maya calendar spotlights a fascinating group of people and lends a prime opportunity to learn about the “Living Maya.” While it’s true that the calendar marks the end of a phase, a lot of research notes that it doesn’t necessarily translate to the end of time. That means you still have a chance to visit the Living Maya.
As one of the most advanced groups of Mesoamericans, the ancient Mayans spread way beyond the forested framework of the culture’s principal cities of Tikal and Palenque. In Chiapas, Mexico, set deep within the tangled vines and lush tropical foliage of the Usumacinta River Valley, outlier communities thrived along the river that served as a highway system. Cayucos (dugout canoes) sped along the Usumacinta’s swift current—laden with goods like salt, cacao, cotton, obsidian, shells, and exotic feathers for trade along the riverine route, linking the mountain highlands to the Gulf of Mexico.
ADVENTURE LIFE
And, the timing of the unique astronomical and mathematical event provides added incentive and occasion to travel into the mythic Mayan lands of Guatemala, southern Mexico, and Belize to explore ruins and interact with Mayan people who live much like they did 800 years ago.
Today, you can follow the same route paddled on the Usumacinta centuries ago. In fact, descendants of the ancient Maya still populate the region, practicing fragments of what was thought to be a lost culture. The diverse lands of the Living Maya offer the physical outdoor experiences so many of us crave but also grant access into a cultural adventure: an ancient civilization’s mysteries quietly revealed in the daily rituals of the area’s present-day people. We highly recommend the following vetted tour companies for their comprehensive planning, thorough safety measures, diverse itineraries, and informative guides.
The Muddy Boot Travel Company Why should travelers go now? “To say that you visited Chiapas, the land of the Mayans, in 2012 and bore witness not to the end of the world, but instead to what the Mayans believed was a new beginning, a sort of cosmic new year. It should prove to be an unforgettable experience in a magical place.” —Founder of The Muddy Boot, Antonio del Rosal The husband and wife team of Antonio and Rebeca del Rosal offers carefully crafted itineraries that combine active excursions in the Chiapenec jungle and along the river freeways with illuminating tours of the ancient Maya cities, Palenque and Yaxchilan. It’s a tantalizing mix that provides a portal into another world and engages your alter “Indiana Jones” personality. Every corner you round reveals something new to the senses or mind. themuddyboot.org Best “Indiana Jones” Moment: Navigating the Usumacinta River by cayuco canoe, arriving early in the morning at Yaxchilan. (The only way to get there is via the river.) The screech of howler monkeys greets you, as you spot a scarlet macaw among the hanging vines and forest canopy. Then: the magical moment. Step through the heavy curtain of leaves and, unveiled before you, stand the mossy ruins of Yaxchilan, appearing like a an unlikely mirage in the jungle.
30 WAM • FALL | 2012
Traditions Mexico Cultural Tours
What surprises guests most about interacting with the Mayans? “You’ll come into the highlands of Chiapas and see indigenous people who speak Spanish—if at all—only as a second language, who dress in ways very specific to their village-states, who practice unusual religious rituals, and who carry on artisanal and lifestyle traditions that really haven’t changed in 1,500 years. It’s enough to shatter anybody’s more limited concept of Mexico. You realize, with a thrill and a sense of awe, that there is an undiscovered world—or many—in this place that you once thought of as the land of beaches and tequila.” —Founder of Traditions Mexico, Eric Mindling The company’s creative, “back-cactus” (founder Eric Mindling’s term for “off the beaten path”) small-group trips and custom tours focus on indigenous culture and traditions of the highland Mayan people of Chiapas and southern Mexico. These immersive experiences provide interaction with the reserved and reclusive modern Mayans, who hold onto ancient traditions. You’ll hike in high, remote, mountain villages, wandering into festivals, flower markets, and women’s weaving co-ops, meeting folk artists and discovering the blending of Mayan traditions and the modern world. You’ll discover the “Living Maya.” traditionsmexico.com Best “Back-Cactus” Moment: Chip Morris, the unassuming American author of The Living Maya, a book on Mayan culture and weaving, guest guides Mayan culture and textile tours in the highlands, where he has lived since 1975. His encyclopedic knowledge and Mayan language skills surprise travelers and the Mayans alike.
BIKE/HIKE ADVENTURES
There are a only a handful of qualified outfitters that specialize in adventure and cultural guided tours exploring the lands of the “Living Maya” within the state of Chiapas. Although the destination is lesser known than its cousin, The Riviera Maya, Chiapas charms adventure travelers with its untrammeled sites and trails. It’s virtually off-thetourist-radar, which makes selecting a top-notch tour operator for your trip a task that deserves special attention.
GIGI RAGLAND
Chiapas, Mexico