Wire Magazine 30.2017 Spring/Summer '18 Men's Fashion Issue

Page 1

ISSUE # 30 | 07.27.17 DESTINATIONS: MONTE CARLO

LAP OF LUXURY

POSTMODERN POLITICS: NO CARE

IN HEALTHCARE

SPRING/SUMMER 2018

FASHION FORWARD MEN'S COLLECTIONS BALMAIN | VERSACE | ACNE STUDIOS




TABLE OF CONTENTS: 8In. aDESTINATIONS: MONTE CARLO place as famous for glamour as Monte Carlo,

deciding which luxury property to stay at can be a challenge, but if your digs have the "Monte Carlo Société des Bains des Mer" stamp, get ready for opulence.

14Wire. COVER STORY: SS18 MEN'S FASHION COLLECTIONS Magazine presents a look ahead at the Spring/Summer '18 menswear collections from Balmain, Versace and Acne Studios.

22 . POSTMODERN POLITICS: NO CARE IN HEALTHCARE Obamacare failing. Congress flailing. Michael W. Sasser thinks he knows what's wrong with healthcare and reports from the front lines – a doctor's office.

cultural events.

PHOTO BY MONICA FEUDI. COURTESY OF BALMAIN

26 . GOING OUT: PLAN YOUR OUTINGS The week's rundown of nightlife, dining and



Publisher/Editor in Chief Rafa Carvajal Editor Michael W. Sasser Associate Publisher/Editor Michael Bustamante Design & Production True Ink Designs L.L.C. | trueinkdesigns.com

HERING T Y A G L E T Ă” H T A S Y A ID R BPHEOTAOSRBYSJ.R&. DAVISHARES F WIREMAG.COM/PHOTOS

Columnists Alfredo Barrios Alyn Darnay Dane Steele Green Anthony Reyes Official Photography Studio Photo Studio Miami Staff Photographer J.R. Davis Local Advertising advertising@wiremag.com National Advertising Rep. Rivendell Media | 212.242.6863 Contact Information Tel: 305.520.WIRE Email: info@wiremag.com 1541 Brickell Avenue, #2004, Miami, FL 33129 Wire Magazine is published, produced, and owned by Wire Media Group L.L.C. All Rights Reserved. Distributed in print in Miami, The Beaches, and Fort Lauderdale, and digitally worldwide through wiremag.com The views, opinions or positions expressed by contributors to and interview subjects of Wire Magazine are theirs alone and do not necessarily reflect the views, opinions or positions of Wire Magazine, its staff or publisher. Cover: Versace Men’s Spring/Summer 2018 Photo courtesy of Versace



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On another fun note, this week we preview the Spring/Summer 2018 fashion forward men's collections of Balmain, Versace and Acne Studios. If you would love some place glamorous, classy and with world class accommodations – really world class – for your next vacation, travel columnist Dane Steele Green advises to check for the "Monte Carlo Société des Bains des Mer" stamp. If your digs have that designation, then you have reached the virtual pinnacle of luxury. Also in this issue of Wire Magazine, Editor Michael W. Sasser reports from the front line of the ongoing debate about healthcare reform – a doctor's office. Mike suggests maybe we should look at what's right in front of us to figure out what really needs to be fixed. Not that Washington D.C. is listening or Trump and Elaine really care.

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DESTINATIONS

HÔTELS: MONTE CARLO SOCIÉTÉ DES BAINS DES MER

WHERE LUXURY MEANS SOMETHING

8 WIREMAG.COM #30 2017

here is no other country more synonymous with success than Monaco. There just isn't. This tiny principality, with France on one side and the glorious Mediterranean on the other, is the physical representation of the good life. If you are here, you are "in." But you still gotta find a place to stay, and when every property is billed as "luxury," the word loses its definition. What is the best of the best when the best of the best is all around you? If your digs have the "Monte Carlo Société des Bains des Mer" stamp, you are definitely in the right direction – if not at the finish line. Managing some of the toniest hotels and casinos in Monaco, nay, the world, this is a company for whom "luxury" means something. As it happens, Monte Carlo SBM is actually hard to avoid; 52 of their 58 properties cram into the 0.78 square miles of Monaco's territory. It is a fool's game to name a king of the hill, but after 150 years of exemplary service, the usual go-to, the Hôtel de Paris Monte-Carlo, is going through a refurb. But no fear! The Hôtel Hermitage Monte-Carlo stands ready – and is hardly anything to sniff at.

PHOTOS COURTESY OF MONTE CARLO SOCIÉTÉ DES BAINS DE MER. PROVIDED BY BPCM

By Dane Steele Green


PHOTOS COURTESY OF MONTE CARLO SOCIÉTÉ DES BAINS DE MER. PROVIDED BY BPCM

Imperial, palatial, and radiating the elegance of the Belle Epoch, the atmosphere is nevertheless decidedly carefree and "joie de vive." While built in an age of very rigid social structures, the whole point of the Hôtel Hermitage was to throw that damn man-corset out the window (it was the only way to maintain the line of a tuxedo). That idea lives on to this day; you are on vacation, after all. And when Gustave Eiffel, of eponymous tower fame, had a hand in the look of the place, you know you are in for something good. You get a good dose of him when you enter – Eiffel designed the lobby. He is also the brains behind the sublime dome of the hotel's winter garden. But while all that and being laid-back is all fine and good, this is still a prestige address. Of the 278 rooms, 25 are suites and 52 are junior suites. A rarified nine are "diamond suites" – Euro-flick fans will want to check out the one favored by and named after Marcel Pagnol, one of the Great Ones of French cinema. With uninterrupted panoramas of the English courtyard, the Rock of Monaco and Prince's Palace, the view is no less inspiring today as it was in the day. Like I said: "Luxury" means something. Or it should, anyway. For more information, go to montecarlosbm.com.

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N O I H S FA N E M D R A W R O F RING/SUMMER 2018 SP

er el W. Sass By Micha

Inspiration, diversity and the City of Lights drive the ambitions of Balmain's Spring/ Summer 2018 style. Balmain's Olivier Rousteing asserts this is because of France recently "veering sharply away from a small-minded fear of others, while strongly reaffirming key ideals that are both universal and uniquely tied to France and its long history. My team and I often stress that Balmain reflects how our generation dresses – but perhaps because of this recent affirmation of essential values, I felt myself pushed to create an even more personal runway offering – one that best reflects how I feel and dress today." Like the runway's soundtrack, the collection relies both on familiar classics and a paring back to a raw, honest essential. A tougher, urban edge is clearly evident, both in the sharp silhouette and the limited color palette. Inspired by – but not constrained by – Parisian mood, the runway's spotlight shines a bright light on Balmain's atelier's skillful French tailoring, but the familiar mastery of embellishment and leather designs is also easily spotted. Above all, one senses the strong confidence of "l'aventurier contre tout guerrier," hailed in today's Indochine song – the assertive attitude that defines the young, bold Balmain army.

14 WIREMAG.COM #30 2017

PHOTO BY MONICA FEUDI. COURTESY OF BALMAIN

BALMAIN


PHOTOS BY MONICA FEUDI. COURTESY OF BALMAIN

BALMAIN

#30 2017 WIREMAG.COM 15


16 WIREMAG.COM #30 2017

PHOTOS BY MONICA FEUDI. COURTESY OF BALMAIN


VERSACE

PHOTO COURTESY OF VERSACE

Versace's Spring/Summer 2018 menswear collection is pure Versace – fresh attitude, easy energy and an immediate passion that runs deep. Pinstripes are refreshed and remixed, like pinstripe strong-shouldered tailoring, or shirts where different pinstripes are contrasted and clashed. The new power of Versace prints: the utility of a tech blouson is contrasted with the romance of its "Balletto" print, while the "Angelo" print appears on a sharp quilted bomber. Versace silk shirts are made modern, with two shirts cut up and combined, or the optical print shirt cropped to just show above the waist of black silk utility shorts. Knits are playful, like the cotton knit red twinsets with a bead and crystal crown embellishment, or diagonal cut knits that add dynamism to the layers. Biker jackets and pants are given unexpected softness in black silk, complete with quilted padding. Silk pajamas are the perfect luxury for daytime. A classic Versace logo looks totally new, embroidered in white stitches on a baby blue or pale pink t-shirt, worn with matching straight leg jeans. Parachute pants have zippers at the side for a volume that's then gathered by drawstrings, while utility blousons have lattice lacing on the sleeves. Leather trenches are created from intricate patchworks of leather squares, the corners held as if by a bolt. They come in black or black-and-white check. "This collection is like a homecoming. It's about the passions that define Versace, the complexity of men, the energy of today," says Donatella Versace.

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18 WIREMAG.COM #30 2017

PHOTO COURTESY OF VERSACE


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PHOTOS COURTESY OF VERSACE


"I love the physical change from life in the city to the tranquility of the summer house. It is a journey we all make in Sweden every July, and I wanted to capture that transition in this collection. It is the movement from one mental state to another, and the wardrobe that goes with it." So says Jonny Johansson, Acne Studios creative director. That look, spirit and inspiration are found throughout the company's Spring/Summer 2018 collection. Trench coats are cut long in linen, while house coats in light gabardine are wrapped with a sash belt: comfortable layers in which to lounge and relax. Crochet tanks and shrunken sweaters are like the family heirlooms that decorate the summerhouse, with simple flowers embroidered as if a family tradition. Long tailoring has individuality, with buttons that sit high on a suit jacket, often mismatching as if personalized. Some jackets and housecoats have crochet embroidery at the seams. Pieces are rendered in the traditional colors of Swedish summerhouses. Chiffon is like the transparent curtains of the house, used for tailoring, shirts and shorts, as well as the outer layer of a bomber, revealing the ribbing beneath. Trousers sit high, sometimes fitted to the curve of the waist. Their roominess suggests a new ease to take from the summerhouse and bring back to the city street.

20 WIREMAG.COM #30 2017

PHOTO COURTESY OF ACNE STUDIOS

ACNE STUDIOS


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PHOTOS COURTESY OF ACNE STUDIOS


POSTMODERN POLITICS By Michael W. Sasser PHOTO CREDIT: © DEPOSITPHOTOS.COM | ANDRESR

NO CARE

IN HEALTHCARE recent visit to a doctor's office has me thinking a lot about healthcare as an issue and where the problems rest. Now, this particular doctor and his staff are very familiar to me, I like them and they have done good work for me. Furthermore, the experience was pretty much identical to every visit to a doctor I've had in recent years. Here's the breakdown: • 15 minutes total waiting time (good, I know!) • 6-7 minutes dealing with paperwork and clerks • 7-8 minutes with a nurse answering requisite questions. (Do you feel safe at home? Do you feel depressed? Do you feel suicidal? Funny, they never ask if I feel homicidal.) • 5 minutes alone, looking at scary equipment sitting in an exam room • 4 minutes with the doctor

Maybe one day, the debate will turn away from where it is now (which is largely about politics and power, as are most national "issues" in reality) to quality of care. Or rather, care at all. I know that this doctor didn't go into medicine so he could spend four minutes with me and five or ten times that amount of time doing paperwork. Similarly, you know the waiting and whirlwind visit you receive from a doctor in an ER? I asked an ER doc I know well the other day about his average day and it's no wonder there are people sitting around ERs for hours! Even ER docs spend as much or more time on paperwork (i.e. compliance with government mandates, insurance requirements, hospital CYA, etc.).

There just doesn't seem to be much care in healthcare, and fault can't be pinned on docs. Generally, people go into medicine because they want to help people. Then they get into practice and find they don't get to spend much time with patients. No, doctors don't spend just fleeting moments with patients because their Also worth noting: the ratio of doctors to clerks schedules are so busy taking patients out of who have to deal with the bureaucracy of in- greed. Consider the demands on a doc when surance companies and government is roughly he has to support a staff larger than a Kardashian's just to get paid for his services? He 1:4. isn't paying overhead on co-pays. Now, most of the debate, from the debut of the Affordable Care Act to the preposterous spec- Who knows? Maybe if doctors were more free tacle of today's... whatever one would call it in to practice medicine instead of dealing with Congress, focuses on mechanisms for paying bureaucracy, health outcomes would be better. The ripple effect of this would impact all of for healthcare. It's process, process, process. healthcare. Healthier people make for a better 22 WIREMAG.COM #30 2017

system, regardless of how that system operates. Healthier people in general would leave doctors more time, and the system more resources, to address those people with greater needs – and those finally gaining access to care (assuming that happens...). Government can't mandate care into healthcare. Nor can insurance companies. All they can do is get out of the way and let doctors do what doctors got into doctoring to do. Maybe when the argument over the service delivery system is finished, there can be a dialog on quality of service. It's a discussion worth having and I think many doctors would support it. Why do I think so? Among other reasons, I asked my doctor this week in our brief moment together. Well, I asked his thoughts on the healthcare debate. OK, so people are often hesitant to say everything they think when I ask questions like that since it occasionally might appear in print. But he did say that "they're arguing over the wrong things." The doc probably would have elaborated, maybe said something revealing. But his four minutes with me were up. Author and journalist Michael W. Sasser is editor of Wire Magazine. His opinions do not necessarily reflect those of Wire Magazine, its publisher or owner. Commentary is encouraged at msasser@wiremag.com.


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HÔTEL GAYTHERING: Hoppy Hour 5-9 p.m. with $5 well drinks. Enjoy $3 Peroni beers. SCORE: Two parties under one roof: Level 1: Club Boi Miami in association with Score present Sexxy Saturdays "Urban & HipHop Night" featuring the music of DJs. Plus sexy Go-Go's on stage. Level 2: Diva party featuring the

HÔTEL GAYTHERING: At 10:30 a.m., join in for Gaythering Beach Volleyball at Lummus Park (12th St. & Ocean Dr.). At 2 p.m., head back to the Hôtel for a barbecue in the courtyard with complimentary burgers, veggie burgers & hot dogs while they last. Hoppy Hour 5-9 p.m. with $5 well drinks. Enjoy $3 Heinekens all night.

music of Grammy Award nominee DJ/producer Abel. Special perfor- SCORE: Score presents Huntee mances by Daisy Deadpetals as Sundays "U Looking Fierce ToMadonna and Champagne Bor- night!" hosted by TP Lords, and deaux as Whitney Houston. Open cast: Ann Atomic, House Of Kuntz, bar 11:30 p.m. - 12:00 a.m. No Dasha Sweetwaters & more. Music cover for divas in drag until 1 a.m.

by DJ Sushiman. $6 drink specials, $4 Becks. Open bar 10:30-11

SPACE: Vatos Locos by Link Miami

p.m.

Rebels. 21 & over. 11 p.m. $10plus. For more information, visit TWIST: 2-4-1 Happy Hour 1-9 clubspace.com. 34 NE 11th St., p.m. on everything. Steamy SunMiami

days in the Garden Bar. Pussila's Underwear Contest: winner gets

THE MANOR: Heroes, a Spec- $100 bar tab. Music by DJ Pautacular Cosplay Theme Party. With

lie. "Never a cover... Always a

beats by DJ Kidd Madonny. No

groove."


WIREMAG.COM/GOINGOUT MONDAY, JULY 31 HÔTEL GAYTHERING: Hoppy

CALENDAR OF EVENTS JULY 27 - AUGUST 2

p.m., join in for inner space yoga.

TWIST: 2-4-1 Happy Hour 1-9

TWIST: Getting Fresh with TP

Donations are encouraged. #Yo-

p.m. on everything. Globoy Tues-

Lords, featuring Josefina La Glo-

Gay!

days with beats by DJ Carlos G.

bos and sounds by DJ Sushiman.

$5 Fireball shots. "Never a cov-

Showtime 1 a.m. "Never a cov-

er… Always a groove."

er… Always a groove."

Hour 5-9 p.m. At 8 p.m., join in for Karaoke Mondays with $5 well drinks. Enjoy $5 house margaritas all night long. TWIST: 2-4-1 Happy Hour 1-9 p.m. on everything. At night, VJ Nathan presents: Pop! Mondays. Sounds by DJ Sushiman. "Never a cover… Always a groove."

SCORE: Planeta Macho, "The Hottest

Latin

Party

in

Beach." Gloria Trevi and Alejandra Guzman in concert ticket giveaway. Featuring special guest Teresita "La Caliente." Music by DJ Yazz Burrell. Hosted by Lola Lotus and Marco Perez with his hot male dancers. $6 rum cock-

TUESDAY, AUGUST 1

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HÔTEL GAYTHERING: Hoppy Hour 5-9 p.m. with $5 well drinks. Join in for Trivia/Gayme night with $3 PBRs and $7 Absolut flavors. 8 p.m. - midnight. Winner receives $50 off bar tab.

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cover for FL ID holders until 1:00 HÔTEL GAYTHERING: Hoppy

a.m. Open bar 11:30 p.m. - 12

Hour 5-9 p.m. with $5 well drinks.

a.m. For more information, visit

Enjoy $6 Rekorderlig ciders. At 7

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