Wine Press Northwest Winter 2017

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COZY WINTER WINE RETREATS | THE "MELLISONI EXPERIENCE"

WI NTER 2017

WI NEPRES S NW.C O M

A WINE LOVER'S GUIDE TO SEATTLE U.S. $5

Best of the Best

Canada $6 1 2>

2017 PLATINUM 0

74470 94059

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2017 DOUBLE PLATINUM

Platinum Results


DOUBLE PLATINUM 2017

Cabernet Sauvignon

WINE PRESS N O R T H W E S T platinum wine competition

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585

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The Essence of Washington®

NORTHWEST

A 585 Northwest Brand

Marketed by Bronco Wine Co. 855.874.2394 | broncowine.com | ©2018 Gravel Bar Vineyards, WA


Where your stories blend with ours. - Handmade in Washington State Re-Opening in May 2018

OUR STORY “You only live once, but if you do it right, once is enough.” - Mae West Passion and love are the guiding principles for the way we approach life. We believe that you are empowered to create your own history, while respecting the succession of it. Sometimes the journey contains adversity, but adversity creates opportunity. In 2014, we experienced two major life events: we welcomed our first child into this world, and not two weeks later, we lost our home to the Carlton Complex wildfires. Experiences such as these cause great reflection and a renewed focus on what is most important in life. For us, family needed to come first. As we prepared to welcome a second daughter, the love for our growing family, a desire to live a more balanced life, and a passion for great wine led us back to North Central Washington and Succession Wines was established. Why Succession? In simplest terms, succession is the order of things. Ecological succession is the term used to describe the process of change in an ecological community over time, often a response to a natural disturbance such as a fire. Before Brock was studying the traditional art of winemaking, he built bridges. The order of things was critical to his former profession. Same is true of the winemaking process.

78 Swartout Rd Manson, WA 509-888-7611 Uncorked@SuccessionWines.com

Together with our daughters, we are building a new life, a new legacy, a new succession. We are creating our history and invite you join us on our journey. As you sip, smile, and share your story, we hope you’ll think about the progression of your life and all of the adventures to come. Cheers to living the life you love! Warmly,

www.SuccessionWines.com

Brock & Erica Lindsay


VO L . 19, N O. 4

Winter 2017

WINE PRESS NORTHWEST Wine-lover’s Guide to Seattle p12 IN THIS ISSUE

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Wine Knows

Buy more Washington Wine

Swirl, Sniff & Sip Sauvignon Blanc, a surprise star

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A Distant Perspective

12

Wine-lover’s Guide to Seattle

Recapturing varietal character Explore the evolving urban wine culture

Cozy Winter Wine Retreats p18

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Cozy Winter Wine Retreats Upscale resorts of the Northwest

22 The Mellisoni Experience Lake Chelan, Wash. winery opens their home for guests

26 18th Annual Platinum Competition Results Top wines from Northwest reviewed

64 70 The Mellisoni Experience p22

Northwest Wine Calendar

List of top upcoming events

Match Maker Woodinville, Wash. restaurant shares recipes and food pairings

78 Grapes of Roth

Looking in the rear view mirror

Match Maker p70

COVER PHOTO BY R I CHARD DUVAL , R I CHARD D UVAL PH OTOG RAPHY


Over

50 Years of Construction Excellence Est.1964

Wine Press Northwest is for those with an interest in wine – from the novice to the veteran. We focus on Washington, Oregon and Idaho’s talented winemakers and the wineries, vintners and restaurants that showcase Northwest wines. We are dedicated to all who savor the fruits of their labor. Editor Gregg McConnell editor@winepressnw.com Contributors Eric Degerman, Viki Eierdam, Andy Perdue, Dan Radil Tasting Panel Kristine Bono, direct to consumer manager for Tertulia Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash.; Ilene Dudunake, owner of A New Vintage Wine Shop, Meridian, Idaho; Gary Hayes, president of Explorer Media Group and the Savor NW Wine Awards, Cannon Beach, Ore.; Ellen Landis, journalist/sommelier, Vancouver, Wash.; Gregg McConnell, editor of Wine Press Northwest; Andy Perdue, wine columnist for The Seattle Times, Richland, Wash; April Reddout, wine program director for the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center, Prosser, Wash.; Barb Robertson, account manager for M.A. Silva and wine columnist for Foothills magazine, Wenatchee, Wash.; and Steven Sinkler, owner of The Wine Shack, Cannon Beach, Ore. Moderators were Eric Degerman of Great Northwest Wine; retired educator Hank Sauer, Kennewick, Wash; and Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist, Kennewick, Wash.

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Columnists Dan Berger, Ken Robertson, Coke Roth, Andy Perdue Contributing photographers: Bob Bawdy, Richard Duval, Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi Graphic Designer: Jonathan Hooley In memoriam: Bob Woehler Advertising sales: Carol Perkins, 509-582-1438 cperkins@winepressnw.com To subscribe: Subscriptions cost $20 U.S. for four issues per year. Mail check or money order to the address below, subscribe securely online at winepressnw.com or call customer service at 800-538-5619. Free weekly newsletter: Sign up for our free Pacific Northwest Wine of the Week email newsletter at winepressnw.com Address: 333 W. Canal Drive Kennewick, WA 99336 © 2017 Wine Press Northwest A Tri-City Herald publication W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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W i n t e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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COLUMN

the wine knows BY ANDY PERDUE

We’re not buying enough Washington wine

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little wine quiz for you: Out of every 100 bottles of wine sold in Washington state, how many are made by Washington wineries? On the face of it, I would guess the percentage is pretty high. Generally, Washington wines are really well made, aren’t as overpriced as, say, Napa or Sonoma wines, and people in the Northwest are generally supportive of locally made products. Still, I’m here to tell you that we’re not buying enough Washington wine. We must do a better job of supporting the home team. For the record, Washington has less than 25 percent market share. That means that for every case of wine purchased in the state, nine bottles are from California, France, Italy and Australia. In California, market share is closer to 75 percent. In France and Italy and Germany, it’s close to 100 percent. French people drink French wine. In Italy, they mostly don’t drink wine from farther than about 10 kilometers away. They think the more local the wine and food tastes, the better. Drinking local has a lot of side benefits: More money in winery owners’ pockets, more local taxes generated, more jobs created. It’s good for local businesses, it’s good for local economies. I’ll be the first to admit that I could drink more local wine. Of the four wine clubs I belong to, one is a Wines of the World club through National Geographic magazine. Every month I get a dozen red wines from around the world. It’s a lot of fun, and it’s important for me to keep the palate familiar with a wide variety of wines. I also taste a lot of California wines at competitions I judge. In my work for The Seattle Times, one out of 12 columns is beyond Northwest in nature. Those other three wine clubs I’m in are for wineries within 60 miles of my house. One fact skews the market share a bit: About a third of California wine made is in the “jug wine” category. Because the Washington wine industry isn’t built to make those kinds of wines, we simply can’t compete on 6

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price for box wines nor inexpensive imports from Australia, Argentina and Italy. I was recently reading a book that talked about a new classification of Bordeaux wines called “Cru Bourgeois.” These wines are meant to be less expensive to encourage consumers to buy more Bordeaux. Among the most famous is Mouton Cadet (of which hundreds of thousands of cases are made). While I would never advocate for such a classification system in the United States or at the state level, a level of Cru Bourgeois-style wines is emerging under brands from Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, Precept, Wines of Substance, Boomtown by Dusted Valley, Vino la Monarcha, and what would otherwise be

If Washington wine lovers treated our hometown industry with as much enthusiasm as we do the Seahawks, we’d need to plant more vineyards, would fill the tax coffers and would build a healthier state economy. We can all do our part: Give Washington wines as holiday gifts, open more Washington wines at meals. Drink Washington, kiss French. Support the home team. It’s good for everyone.

considered declassified wines - perhaps not quite good enough for the flagship brand, but darned tasty. These wines are often crafted outside the winery at a custom-crush facility. It’s good for all of us. A winery can launch a new brand without the winemaking infrastructure and provide good wines at nice prices. It has the added bonus of using unsold fruit from Washington vineyards. We currently have a glut of Riesling, and we’ll likely have a glut of Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon grapes in years to come. Imagine if every winery produced 5,000 cases of Cru Bourgeois-style wines through a custom-crush facility. That would be a nice cash-flow brand for the winery and burnish our state’s reputation for value wines. If Washington wine lovers treated our hometown industry with as much enthusiasm as we do the Seahawks, we’d need to plant more vineyards, would fill the tax coffers and would build a healthier state economy. And one other detail: The best wines made in places such as Argentina and Australia never make it outside the country. The wine lovers there buy it all up. The same thing happens with our top producers, from Walla Walla to Woodinville. We can all do our part: Give Washington wines as holiday gifts, open more Washington wines at meals. Drink Washington, kiss French. Support the home team. It’s good for everyone. The state wine industry might be better served by focusing its marketing efforts on state residents and surrounding states. This may be our state wine industry’s biggest opportunity. ANDY PERDUE writes about wine for The Seattle Times each Sunday. In addition to being a wine journalist, author and wine judge, he’s also the founding editor of Wine Press Northwest.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


Unique wine and culinary experiences in one of the world’s most beautiful places

MARCH 8-11, 2018 • CANNON BEACH, OREGON Four days of wine tastings and culinary events showcasing Northwest wineries and regional cuisine. Information & tickets:

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Savor Cannon Beach is partially funded by the City of Cannon Beach Tourism and Arts Fund and generous support from our sponsors including: Wine Press Northwest • Stephanie Inn • The Ocean Lodge • Hallmark Resort & Spa • Surfsand Resort • Inn at Cannon Beach Tolovana Inn • Cascade Sotheby’s International Realty • The Wine Shack • Oregon Wine Press


COLUMN

swirl, sniff & sip BY KEN ROBERTSON

Sauvignon Blanc a surprising star at Platinums

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or the past 18 years, Wine Press Northwest has conducted its annual Platinum judging of the “best of the best” by bringin together many of the Northwest’s gold-medal winners of the year for a competition that showcases the region’s best wines. I’ve taken part in almost all of the judgings, either as a tasting panel moderator, a judge or, early on, as a silent judge, someone called on to offer observations only when the active judges or the moderator decide to seek another point of view. From the beginning, I’ve pondered over the results, sometimes agreeing, sometimes not, but I’ve always found it worthwhile to hear the judges discuss their observations and opinions. Then afterward, I review the results from all the judging panels. For 2017, I found some surprises among the 660 entries, 35 Double Platinum medals (which means the judges agreed unanimously that a wine was worthy of that award) and 165 Platinums. Some observations focusing on those 35 Double Platinums: Sauvignon Blanc wowed the judges. Four Double Platinum wines were made from this often-overlooked grape. Yet, as of 2011 (the most recent numbers available), it was planted on only 1,173 acres in Washington state, or less than 2 percent of the total wine grape plantings, according to the Washington State Wine Commission. At the time, there was almost six times as much Riesling and seven times as much Chardonnay. If anything, that gap likely has grown, because some growers have replaced less profitable white wines with highdollar reds. The Sauvignon Blanc award winners came from British Columbia’s Naramata Bench up in the Okanagan Valley, from Oregon’s Umpqua Valley, from Washington’s Horse Heaven Hills and Frenchman Hills Vineyard in the Columbia Valley AVA. That geographic variety indicates Sauvignon Blanc is also a highly adaptable grape. Bordeaux-style red blends with Cabernet Sauvignon or Merlot as the lead grape also won Four Double Platinums. Considering the 8

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proliferation of red blends, this isn’t a surprise, but for comparison, stroll down a wine aisle and compare the shelf space devoted to red blends with that for Sauvignon Blanc. The two red blend Merlots were both from the Columbia Valley AVA and the two red blend cabs from the Columbia Valley and the Red Mountain AVAs. Merlot won three Double Platinums. For a grape that’s supposedly fallen on hard times, it sure pleased the judges. Interestingly, all the Merlot entries for the entire competition were grown in Washington and all the Double Platinums in the Columbia Valley AVA. Cabernet Sauvignon may be king, but it had to share the top red wine honors with Merlot, with three Double Platinums, all from grapes grown in Washington. One was from the Red Mountain AVA, two from the Columbia Valley. A couple of relative newcomers also made impressive showings. Grüner Veltliner took two Double Platinums, including the top wine of the competition. Both were from Oregon’s Umpqua Valley and made by Reustle Prayer Rock Vineyards. Stephen Reustle seems to have a lock on making superb wines from this Austrian grape, but others are starting to follow his example. Perhaps it’s time for our region’s grape growers to do a little more research into the wines of Austria. Mourvèdre also won two Double Platinums and placed No. 4 and No. 5 in the competition. Both were from Washington, one from Boushey Vineyard in the Yakima Valley AVA, the other from Elephant Mountain in the Rattlesnake Hills AVA. The Double Platinum wines were made from at least 22 different grape varieties, as best as I could tell from the information available on the red and white blends. I believe that indicates the Northwest can find a climate suitable for almost any grape, whether it’s Washington’s Red Mountain AVA that’s known for its long, hot summers or the cool and often rainy Willamette Valley where ripening Pinot Noir can get a bit dodgy when fall

rains arrive early. Wine words: “Pét-Nat” wine Once again, we embark into the wilderness that is the French language seeking to explain a wine term that is rather new and trendy in the United States but dates, in practice at least, to the early 16th century monasteries of southern France. Even before Brother Dom Perignon began “drinking stars” in the Champagne region back in the 17th century, the monks of the Limoux were making a sparkling wine that the French eventually dubbed Pétillant Naturel. It has gone by several other noms de plume, including méthod rurale, méthod ancestrale, méthod artisanale and method gaillacoise. In terms of uppityness, I suspect someone felt rurale sounded like the wine of country bumpkins, so it was upscaled to ancestrale, then artisanale, with gaillacoise thrown in to give it the accurate pedigree of often coming from the Gaillac region, one of France’s first grape-growing regions. Anyway, Pét-Nat wines undergo a single fermentation and then are bottled with no sugar added to await a second fermentation. After several months, that second fermentation consumes most whatever residual sugar remained when the wine was bottled. The result can be delightful for the adventurous, or perhaps dreadful for those who fear a bit of cloudiness in their wines. When a bottle is opened, the carbon dioxide bubbles stir up the lees in the bottom of the bottle and whatever else had not settled out before bottling. As one might expect, the wines can be highly variable. Some may appear clear because they have been filtered; others may be a bit murky or even more than a bit. To make these wines well requires more than a little skill and experience. In the mouth, they often reveal low alcohol, some residual sweetness and lively acidity when drunk young. And there’s little point to aging them, experts say. KEN ROBERTSON, the retired editor of the Tri-City Herald, has been sipping Northwest wines and writing about them since 1976. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


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COLUMN

a distant perspective BY DAN BERGER

Recapturing varietal character

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he signs are showing up, in subtle ways that the influence of the number mongers, those who rank wine vaguely and in their own image, is waning. Once a score of 100 for a wine was seen as an absolute guarantee that people would flock to buy it, almost regardless of price. Then about a decade ago, we began to see the first signs that a degree of doubt had entered the fray: people were not as knee-jerk in their reaction to high scores. Sales of higher-priced wines began to decline, and the “value-oriented” $25 price point was seen as an alternative to the once-revered icons. Higher prices became a deterrent, even to the wealthy. In fact it started with them. I heard often from major collectors who said that they did not like paying $75 for wines they perceived as being a lot lesser in quality than their scores indicated. And $100 was out of the question for many, who used the word rip-off and its synonyms often. (Most of these were people with plenty of expendable income.) The ludicrousness of scoring wines with numbers that topped out at 100 became clear in 2004 and 2005 when Robert Parker gave out so many 100-point scores to red Bordeaux you’d have thought a few of them were typographical errors. It became even more obvious about five years later when several wine columnists decried what was being called “score creep,” the upward march of scores for fairly ordinary wines to the 90-and-above range. This past Oct. 4, English wine writer Jamie Goode wrote an accurate (in my opinion) blog post called Score Inflation is Everywhere and it's Killing Wine Criticism. Included in Goode’s diatribe was this: “When Robert Parker began dishing out 100-point scores, he definitely used a wider range than is currently practised by the Wine Advocate. Back in the early 90s, the 89⁄90 boundary (line) used to be a big deal. And as a novice wine lover, 86 used to be a happy hunting ground for me. “Now, 90 is a very normal score, and 86 is a fail. No one wants to see an 89.” What this has led us to is a lot of score 10

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clumping above 90 points, and the majority of these wines are soft, described as “tasty” and “hedonistic,” and other words that had never before been used to describe wines that were historically built for the wine cellar, to improve over time. Novice wine consumers may have been lulled into a false sense of greatness by these faux 100s, but in my experience, many of these wines were so simplistic as to be boring after two or three sips, let alone a glass. Several wine lovers I know have said they are now drinking their iconic Cabs from the early 2000s, one of them suggesting that holding them was “a fool’s game,” and that in many cases, it might be better to sell such wines or trade them for something more reliable that shows greater potential. Which is a rather long lead-in to the annual Platinum wine judging conducted for Wine Press Northwest by Andy Perdue and Eric Degerman each year in October. Only wines that previously received at least a gold medal, perhaps multiple golds, are eligible for this event, and the results often are eye-opening. In a typical year, many of the same old players as well as popular grape varieties show up in the highest results, such as platinum medals. And this year was no different, although one striking aspect of the event is the diversity that was evident in the final results. When the top awards go to a Merlot, a Cabernet Sauvignon or a Chardonnay, no one is surprised. But the judges this year were particularly pleased with the diversity that has been evident in winery tasting rooms for the last decade. It once was de rigueur for a winery to produce tiny amounts of wines from obscure varietals, mainly to sell to their wine club members and for tasting room visitors. The fact that these wines now are being made in large enough quantities to sell in the broad market encourages wineries to also submit them to wine competitions. Which is only more proof that millennial buyers are eager to try new and different flavors. This is a huge departure from the “sameness is akin to greatness” mentality that has

driven many of the iconic wines that once dominated glossy wine magazines. In this year’s Platinum judging, some of the highest awards went to wines made from grape varieties that just a decade ago would have been considered outsiders. Among the best wines were Grüner Veltliner, a rosé, two Mouvredres, a Cinsaut, a Petite Sirah, and a red blend – all from 10 different AVAs! The judges did recognize Cabernet Sauvignons and Merlots for their quality, but the real message of this event, to me, was how diversity seems to have captured the hearts of even professional wine judges. One important reason that this competition Marks a significant change is that it was evident that the judges not only liked the wines, but agreed with the prior judges who had originally blessed these wines with gold medals. That’s the varietal distinctiveness, that once had been missing in the quest for scores, was now an essential component and how these wines should be viewed. Just look at Grüner Veltliner. To what should it be compared? It is not like anything else. And the judges saw this as a welcome change from past years when Chardonnay might have been so captivating that it led the league in batting average. It is heartwarming to see an Austrian grape deliver such character. Great credit to the judges for finding it. DAN BERGER is a nationally renowned wine writer who lives in Santa Rosa, Calif. He publishes a weekly column Dan Berger’s Vintage Experiences (VintageExperiences.com).

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


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W i n t e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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FEATURE

seattle

A birthday celebration at Rotie Cellars SoDo tasting room.

Richard Duval

A wine lover’s guide to

SEATTLE BY ANDY PERDUE

S

eattle has always been a magical place. I grew up just west of the city and spent most of my summers playing along the shore of Lake Washington. And I think strolling through Seattle Center is fun. When I envision the perfect day, it probably includes spending most of it in the Pike Place Market. Maybe with a light drizzle outside, so I have an excuse to stop for coffee. On the Northwest Coast, we are blessed with three great cities. Getting lost in downtown Portland — especially near Powell’s Books — sounds magnificent. I love the city’s vibe, its restaurant scene and how close it is to wine country. I spent a lot of time in Vancouver, B.C., in college — it was just 60 miles away. Its natural beauty, the magnificent 12

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restaurant scene and the vigorous food culture are unmatched. But Seattle has my heart. And today, it has more to offer than ever, but retains a pioneer spirit that never quite gets rinsed away by rain. Its winery scene has matured in the past two decades, becoming far more than Woodinville and evolving into an urban winemaking culture that adds to the city’s heartbeat. Its mature food scene continues to innovate and remains vibrant. The industries and the city surrounding its wine enterprises have embraced the wine culture and cherish its role in our state. Here is my latest exploration of a wine lover’s guide to Seattle.

WINERIES

In addition to the vibrant urban winery scene in Seattle, city dwellers also can head to Woodinville, where about 130 tasting rooms await or catch the ferry to Bainbridge Island where several wineries nestle into a more bucolic setting. But in the city itself are several days of wine exploration: Charles Smith Wines Jet City: Near the northern edge of Boeing Field, Charles Smith has created a new atmosphere in Seattle wine touring with this facility. You can see the entire winemaking process here. Make it easy on yourself by taking Uber from downtown so you don’t need to hassle with parking. Nine Hats: This sister winery to Long Shadows Vintners has moved to Seattle’s W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


seattle FEATURE SoDo from Woodinville and plans to add Nine Pies Pizzeria this fall, making this a spectacular stop on the Seattle wine trail. Wilridge Winery: Seattle’s original urban winery is owned and operated by active wine industry lawyer Paul Beveridge. The wines are made in Eastern Washington near his estate vineyards in the Naches Heights American Viticultural Area, and he runs tasting rooms in the Pike Place Market and at the vineyard near Yakima. Mercer Estates: Wine Press Northwest magazine’s 2016 Washington Winery of the Year now has a tasting room near Beacon Hill, not far from Jet City’s tasting room. Cloudlift Cellars: Artisan furniture maker Tom Stangeland produces his wine in a cozy location in the Georgetown neighborhood. His award-winning reds and whites are worth the short trip from downtown. EFESTE: This longtime Woodinville winery with estate vineyards on Red Mountain is opening a Seattle tasting room on First Avenue. The thoughtfully crafted wines enjoy near-cult status, so this is great news for urban wine lovers. Nota Bene: Tim Narby’s highly regarded work with Bordeaux varieties makes this a must-visit for lovers of big reds. You’ll find the wines in south Seattle’s South Park neighborhood or at the Tasting Room in the Pike Place Market. Robert Ramsay Cellars: This winery with

Richard Duval

Kerloo is one of Seattle’s most popular urban wineries. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Elsom Cellars in Seattle shares space with an adventure travel company.

Richard Duval

tasting rooms in Woodinville and on Queen Anne Hill focuses on red Rhône varieties and does them well, making some of the state’s best examples of little-known reds. Viscon Cellars: This small producer in West Seattle focuses on small lots of wines from top Columbia Valley vineyards. Owners Ben and Susan Viscon make a wide variety of red, white and pink wines. Ward Johnson Winery: This small urban winery on Elliott Avenue near Queen Anne produces a number of high-end, handcrafted reds, focusing primarily on blends. It’s also one of the few wineries to offer a wine storage facility. Welcome Road Winery: With a focus on Bordeaux varieties, this small producer in West Seattle offers free delivery to Seattle residents. Northwest Wine Academy: This is the student-run winery at South Seattle Community College in West Seattle. A wide variety of award-winning wines are produced here from some of the state’s top vineyards. Laurelhurst Cellars: This little Georgetown winery crafts a range of wines, often focusing on grapes from Red Mountain and the Horse Heaven Hills. Latta Wines: This winery not far from the West Seattle Bridge is a rising star, thanks to some outrageously good wines using grapes from storied vineyards. Kerloo Cellars: Ryan Crane founded this Walla Walla winery in 2007 and now has a tasting room in downtown Seattle.

Rôtie Cellars: Owner/winemaker Sean Boyd focuses on Rhône-style wines at his Walla Walla operation. He recently added a tasting room in the SoDo district. Waters Winery: Winemaker/musician Jamie Waters runs this Walla Walla winery that has added a SoDo tasting room. Sleight of Hand Cellars: Longtime Walla Walla winemaker Trey Busch owns this popular winery in the southern Walla Walla Valley and has now opened a second tasting room on First Avenue near the West Seattle Bridge. Elsom Cellars: Jody Elsom focuses on Bordeaux and Rhône varieties from top vineyards, at this small winery on Fourth Avenue. Structure Cellars: Brian Grosso worked for several Woodinville wineries after falling in love during a tasting room visit. Now he and his wife, Brandee, run this boutique producer south of CenturyLink Field on First Avenue. Bartholomew Winery: Bart Fawbush recently relocated his production to the TriCities but will maintain his tasting room in the old Rainier brewery building in Georgetown. Its interesting lineup of wines is well worth checking out. The Estates Wine Room: This fairly new tasting room in Pioneer Square is owned by Crimson Wine Group, which owns such Northwest wineries as Seven Hills (Walla Walla), Double Canyon (West Richland), Pine Ridge (Napa) and Archery Summit (Dundee). W i n t e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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FEATURE

seattle

The Tasting Room: Owned and operated by Wilridge Winery, this tasting room in the Pike Place Market also features wines from eight wineries across the state. Aluel Cellars: This small producer on Capitol Hill crafts a wide variety of artisanal wines and blends under the talented guidance of winemaker Bart Fawbush. Almquist Family Winery: This operation near the Ship Canal in Fremont includes award-winning wines, a distillery and an on-site restaurant. Domanico Cellars: Jason Domanico bought one of the oldest vineyards in the Yakima Valley and move his production to Prosser, but he still maintains a tasting room in Ballard. Eight Bells Winery: This small and respected producer in Seattle’s Roosevelt neighborhood makes collectible wines using grapes from Red Willow Vineyard in the Yakima Valley. Ex-Navy personnel will appreciate the nautical themes.

RESTAURANTS

Canlis: One of the city’s great eating establishments, this is a bucketlist-level dining experience, not only for the Northwest-centric cuisine but also for one of the most magnificent wine lists in America. Purple: With three locations dotting both sides of Lake Washington, you’re never far

Richard Duval

SoDo Urban Wineries: Trey Busch, owner/ winemaker of Sleight of Hand winery. Based in Walla Walla, Busch opened his SoDo tasting room last year. 14

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Richard Duval

Charles Smith presides over a wine release party at his Jet City winery and tasting room.

from a great meal and a superb wine selection. If you’re touring Woodinville, call for reservations, sit outside and relish the wine and food scene. Hitchcock: Alaska native Brendan McGill operates this award-winning cuisine on Bainbridge Island. The half-hour ferry trip across the sound is worth the effort. Cafe Munir: This Ballard eatery is perfect if you’re in need of Middle Eastern cuisine. Joule: This Korean-fusion steakhouse is a few blocks from Gas Works Park, just launching into its second decade of business, Joule is a delicious menu with a comfortable, modern setting. Taylor Shellfish Farms: With three locations in Seattle, this longtime aquafarmer provides patrons with fresh seafood. Le Pichet: This French-inspired bistro inside the Pike Place Market has charmed patrons for nearly two decades and now has a second location on Capitol Hill. Matt’s in the Market: Relying heavily on its location in the Pike Place Market, this Seattle icon focuses on ingredients that are fresh and in season, prepared in the Northwest’s style. Nirmal’s: Based on the 5,000-year history of Indian cuisine, this Pioneer Square restaurant will challenge the senses. The wine and whiskey list is as deep as it is wide. AQUA by El Gaucho: On the iconic Seattle waterfront, the panoramic views of the sound and the Olympic Mountains are nearly as satis-

fying as the seafood-centric menu. The Butcher’s Table: As the name suggests, this restaurant in South Lake Union focuses on prime cuts of beef, particularly Wagyu. For larger events, there are several options for private dining. El Gaucho: When you eat at El Gaucho, you join in a Northwest dining experience that should be cherished. With four locations — three in the greater Seattle area — the wine list takes in the entire Northwest, especially in by-the-glass options, as well as a full complement of cocktails. The Herbfarm: Based not far from Chateau Ste. Michelle in Woodinville, this Northwest icon of cuisine expertly combines the art of food and wine to new heights. It’s important to plan your visit by making a reservation well in advance. Ray’s Boathouse: This location in Ballard is a monument to Seattle’s love affair with fresh seafood. Commanding views of Puget Sound and the Olympic Mountains. Anthony’s at Pier 66: Anthony’s restaurants are dotted throughout the waterways of the Northwest, but for seafood and seaside views where you can smell the ocean, this one’s hard to beat. If you’re there in March, check out the oyster sampler and oyster wine specials. RN74: Relying heavily on Seattle’s bounty of fresh seafood and produce available to its culinary team, this well-regarded French restaurant creates haute-cuisine with a NorthW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


seattle FEATURE west twist. Jeff Lindsay-Thorsen of W.T. Vintners serves as the lead sommelier. Seastar Restaurant & Raw Bar: If you’re drawn to fresh local seafood, there’s no reason to look further than Seastar in Bellevue. Spinasse: A delicious selection of cuisine inspired by northern Italy’s Piedmont region with a selection of wines of that classic region. Wild Ginger: Combining the cuisine of southeast Asia and China with a wine list that’s among the deepest collections of glorious Riesling anywhere makes this Seattle favorite an important stop on the Northwest wine trail. Metropolitan Grill: Generally considered Seattle’s best steakhouse, this tony downtown eatery also has a wine list that rivals any in the state. It’s not a bad choice for fresh seafood either. Cafe Campagne: In the Pike Place Market’s Post Alley, Cafe Campagne is Seattle’s foremost French eatery. While the winelist is unapologetically Francophile, there are just enough Northwest selections to remind you that you’re in the Pacific Northwest.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Tulio: Inside the Kimpton Hotel Vintage Seattle, this classic Italian restaurant focuses on the delightful cuisine of Northern Italy. The thoughtful wine list leans, of course, toward Italian selections, but includes many West Coast selections. Ruth’s Chris: This classic steakhouse has two locations in the Seattle metro area (downtown and Bellevue). You’ll enjoy regionally inspired cuisine accompanied by a thoughtfully deep global wine list. Cafe Presse: This French café on Capitol Hill is brought to you by the owners of Le Pichet in the Pike Place Market. Enjoy casual dining with a full complement of French wines and French newspapers. It’s as close as you can get to Avenue des Champs-Élysées without the bother of an airplane. Salty’s: With three locations (plus one in Portland), Salty’s is the quintessential Seattle seafood experience.The Alki Beach location serves up delicious seafood along with the classic view of the Seattle skyline. Barnacle: Entering its fifth year, this Ballard bar focuses on Italian aperitivo, featuring wine by the glass and all things smoked,

pickled and cured. Jarrbar: Inspired by the small plates he found in travels through Spain and Portugal owner Bryan Jarr to create this tapas bar near the Pike Place Market. Junebaby: If Southern-style comfort food is your scene, you’ll want to put the Ravenna neighborhood eatery on you list of stops. L’Oursin: This French restaurant near Seattle University specializes in serving natural wines and cocktails. No Anchor: This Belltown bar focuses on Northwest-inspired cuisine and a deep list of on-tap choices. They are happy to accommodate vegetarian and vegan needs. Opus Co.: This creative establishment near Green Lake uses its wood-fired grill to great effect, combining it with its in-house pickling and food-fermentation program, along with a selection of regional beverages.

LODGING

The Inn at El Gaucho: Upstairs from El Gaucho in Belltown is the tony Inn at El Gaucho, studio apartments that simply drip with atmosphere. In the basement is a full-

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FEATURE

seattle

service movie theater. It’s difficult to imagine a more romantic setting. Kimpton Hotel Vintage Seattle: A winethemed hotel in the heart of downtown, what could be better for wine lovers than this Kimpton property next to the Fifth Avenue Theater, and also home to Tulio’s Italian restaurant. Each room is named for a Washington winery. Hotel 1000: With 120 guestrooms that highlight the delicious water views, this downtown hotel offers up a great Seattle experience. Also enjoy the on-site oyster bar and Belltown cocktail lounge. The Edgewater: With a rich and colorful history that goes back to its origins with the Seattle World’s Fair, this property along the waterfront can boast that the Beatles stayed here and fished from their rooms. Warwick: One of downtown Seattle’s top luxury properties, the Warwick is a great location from which to launch your exploration of the city, especially if that’s going to take you to the Pike Place Market or the original Starbucks coffeehouse. Fairmont Olympic Hotel: Since being built in the 1920s, The Olympic Hotel has defined luxury in Seattle. With two on-site restaurants, you may be tempted to explore no farther. Inn at the Market: The world-famous Pike Place Market is the beating heart of Seattle, and the Inn at the Market offers the only accommodations in the market. With great views of the Sound and the Olympics, this is the quintessential Seattle lodging experience. Hotel Monaco: Nestled in the heart of downtown Seattle, the Kimpton-owned Hotel Monaco is a playful throwback to another era. With great on-site restaurants and atmosphere that won’t quit, a stay at Hotel Monaco will not soon be forgotten. Pan Pacific Seattle Hotel: If you seek luxury and a four-star experience, then Seattle’s Pan Pacific Hotel will be sure to satisfy.

WINE BARS

Bottlehouse: Enjoy local wines, beers and artisan cheese plates at this stop near Lake Washington. Vif: This Fremont coffee/wine bar focuses on providing natural wines and organic coffee, along with small bites. Lower Bar Ferdinand: This wine bar near Seattle University focuses on providing access 16

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timate and bustling setting Crepe Cafe & Wine Bar: This restaurant and wine bar in North Seattle specializes in crepes of all types and styles, from breakfast to dessert. Artusi: This Aperitivo Bar in Central Seattle is a great way to explore Italian cuisine and lifestyle without leaving the city. La Buona Tavola: A visit to the truffle cafe in the Pike Place Market is a must stop for any true foodie, as well as anyone who loves Italian wines.

WINE SHOPS

Richard Duval

Andrew Latta, owner/winemaker, Latta Wines, smooths the must from production for recycling.

to small-production wineries alongside small plates featuring dried and cured meats. Locöl Barley & Vine: This cozy West Seattle bar focuses on wine, craft beer, small plates and live music. Grand Cru: This Bellevue establishment combines a wine bar with a wine shop in an delightful Old World setting. The WineBar on 24th: This vodka and wine bar in Ballard is for those who appreciate artisan craft distilleries. Le Caviste: This downtown wine bar is well-known for its deep, wide, knowledgeable international wine selection. If you’re looking for a bite, you’ll enjoy their cheese selection. Revolution Wine Shop & Bar: This downtown wine bar and bottle shop, home of the rosé slushie. The Barrel Thief: This casual wine and whiskey bar in Fremont offers 175 wines by the glass, small plates and desserts in an in-

Pike & Western: This wine shop in the Pike Place Market began in the early 1980s by Ron Irvine, who led the drive to save the market then later wrote the definitive history on the Washington wine industry. In 1981, he sold the business to Michael Teer, an employee, who continues to fill the shop with interesting bottles from around the world. Esquin: Now at age 50, Esquin is the oldest wine shop in the Northwest. The only interruption came when it had to move to make way for Safeco Field in the 1998. It’s a great space that allows customers to get lost amid the stacks of wines, discovering hidden gems. DeLaurenti: In the Pike Place Market, this Italian deli, spice shop and wine store is a great stop for lovers of all things Italian. West Seattle Cellars: Bear Silverstein, one of the great wine minds of Washington, ran this shop until his death in 2010, and the store continues to be one of the Seattle market’s great little retailers. McCarthy & Schiering Wine Merchants: With locations on Queen Anne Hill and Ravenna, this longtime retailer is renowned for its deep interest in top Italian and Washington wines. Champion Wine Cellars: French expat Emille Ninaud has provided Seattle with great wine selections since 1969. Just down the road from the Space Needle, Champion has been the go-to wine shop for two generations. ANDY PERDUE writes about wine for The Seattle Times each Sunday. In addition to being a wine journalist, author and wine judge, he’s also the founding editor of Wine Press Northwest.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


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FEATURE

winter retreats

A quintessential winter escape, Shore Lodge at McCall, Idaho, sits on the banks of Payette Lake at the 5,000-foot elevation.

Courtesy of Shore Lodge

Northwest offers cozy, upscale wine-centric winter retreats BY VIKI EIERDAM

W

inter in the Northwest is the ideal season to schedule time with a special someone in a special place. Watching as snow shrouds the evergreens or marveling as a coastal storm crashes its waves onto a beach both offer nature close-up. And no matter where you travel, winter also is a great season to have snug lodging and a crackling fire close at hand when it’s time to retreat from nature. For those who treasure our region’s fine food and wines, the following are among the Northwest’s best accommodations for a memorable experience.

SHORE LODGE

A quintessential winter escape, Shore Lodge sits on the banks of Payette Lake at 5,000 feet. With snow-focused activities 18

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SHORE LODGE 501 W Lake St, McCall, ID 800-657-6464 www.shorelodge.com

taking center stage outside, it’s all about luxury and pampering inside. An on-site spa, The Cove, offers everything from massages, facials and pedicures to salt water immersion pools. After a day of snowshoeing, skiing or snowmobiling, it’s time to decompress. Open since 1948, Shore Lodge offers a new beverage and dining concept, with the unveiling of The Bar in December and the projected January 2018 opening of The Narrows Steakhouse with an amplified wine program. A 2,000-plus bottle cellar, set off by

a 360-degree glass surround, creates a striking focal point. The strong sommelier program at Shore Lodge is known for a high-end wines-by-theglass list, featuring six-ounce pours, not the industry standard five ounces, plus sample pours. The Captain’s List will feature hard-tofind bottles and Mark Gallaudet, executive director of food and beverage, is excited to see the offerings from Idaho wineries increase significantly.

SEMIAHMOO RESORT

Located on a sandspit between Semiahmoo Bay and Drayton Harbor, Semiahmoo Resort is perfectly situated to watch a storm roll in while swirling a Sauvignon Blanc from Washington’s Klipsun Vineyard or a Red Mountain Merlot. Restaurant manager Lise Houweling is proud to tout that 75 percent of the resort’s wines featured are from Washington State. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


winter retreats FEATURE

SEMIAHMOO RESORT 9565 Semiahmoo Pkwy, Blaine, WA 360-318-2000 www.semiahmoo.com

Between the three on-site restaurants, they “offer everything from library wines sourced at smaller boutique wineries in Lake Chelan and Whidbey, to some of our favorite and more notable partners in Horse Heaven Hills and Columbia Valley.” If the weather is not conducive to kayaking or a round of golf, explore some of the trails and beaches of this 300-acre resort and then duck inside to find a cozy spot to sit back and relax with a glass of wine or snuggle up in front of a wood-burning fire in your guest room. Semiahmoo also offers the Oenophile Club, featuring benefits like tastings in their wine cellar room, private wine storage, and access to private cooking classes with their executive chef, Bruno. Monthly vintner dinners continue the wine emphasis. Want to feel good while doing good? Inquire about seasonal programs that Semiahmoo supports by donating $2.00 to local food banks for every locally-made bottle purchased.

Courtesy of Stephanie Inn

A fire on the beach takes the chill off of a winter visit to Stephanie Inn at Cannon Beach, Oregon. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Courtesy of Semiahmoo Resort

Located on a sandspit between Semiahmoo Bay and Drayton Harbor, Semiahmoo Resort is perfectly situated to watch a storm roll in while swirling a Sauvignon Blanc from Washington’s Klipsun Vineyard or a Red Mountain Merlot.

STEPHANIE INN

Over the years, the oceanfront Stephanie Inn has earned a reputation for providing luxurious getaways. Stunning view rooms put the powerful Pacific close enough to smell and gas fireplaces make warming up after a bracing beach stroll an inviting proposition. A welcoming patio or balcony, afternoon wine gathering, evening nightcap in the cozy library and Chef 's breakfast buffet the next morning are all included in the lodging price. Situated an hour from the acclaimed Willamette Valley, 95 percent of the wine list at The Stephanie Inn is Oregon and Washington-sourced. Thanks to a partnership with Adelsheim Vineyard, a bottle of their Pinot Noir and Chardonnay is available in every room for purchase and the entire dining room menu can be ordered up as well, so there’s no need to leave your private sanctuary unless you want. Chef Aaron Bedard and dining room manager Domingo Alegria work closely with food and beverage artisans up and down the Oregon coast to maintain their locally-harvested focus and that goes for the wine program as well. Other attractions include the on-site Aveda Spa, a wine dinner series, Stephanie Inn Sojourns, and beverage and culinary classes.

THE WICK

From its opening in 1996, ‘The Wick’ has focused on its sense of place. The buildings have a strong First Nations influence and hand-carved woodwork throughout the property, thanks to the late Henry Nolla, a family friend. Loyal students keep up the decadesold tradition and a visit to The Wick would not be complete without time spent at the on-site Carving Shed. Jutting toward the Clayoquot Sound is The Pointe Restaurant — boasting a 240-degree view that captures every sunset and crashing wave with equal splendor. According to Ike Seaman, sommelier and director of food and beverage, their sense-ofplace philosophy is further illustrated in their cuisine and wine lists. Reaching beyond the better known Okanagan Valley, The Wick finds treasures in the Similkameen and Lower

THE STEPHANIE INN 2740 S. Pacific, Cannon Beach, OR 855-977-2444 www.stephanie-inn.com

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FEATURE

winter retreats

EXPERTS SHARE PAIRINGS We asked the resorts’ experts their favorite food and wine pairings for winter hibernating: Mark Gallaudet, executive director of food and beverage at Shore Lodge: “I’m a big red guy so, for me, it’s a bottle of red and some really good cheese and a cozy fire. It doesn’t get any better than that, but it’s also about the people you have to tick off those boxes with.” Lise Houweling, Semiahmoo’s restaurant manager: “My personal favorite food and wine pairing is our Salish Sea Cioppino and San Juan Vineyards Siegerrebe. The crisp apple and pear notes in the Siegerrebe complement the kickin’ Ciopinno sauce, which has a hint of crushed red pepper and chorizo.” Ike Seaman, sommelier and director of food and beverage at The Wick: “I’m known to really enjoy hearty meat dishes and big bold red wines. For me, when storm watching I want something warm and cozy. A nice well-prepared game meat and a big rich red wine, that would be my go-to combination.” Domingo Alegria, dining room manager at The Stephanie Inn: “I enjoy a dish that warms me up in the winter time. First thing that comes to mind are our braised short ribs with a veal reduction sauce, paired perfectly with a full-bodied Oregon Pinot Noir.”

Fraser Valleys as well as rising stars on Vancouver Island. Using exclusively Riedel glassware, all wines are served in the proper shape and size glass. With an impressive selection of fortified and dessert wines, chocolate and Port or cheese and Sauvignon Blanc tastings can be arranged. The Wick exists in harmony with its rugged surroundings that makes it a truly special place on Vancouver Island.

Courtesy of Wickaninnish Inn

Facing Clayoquot Sound on Chesterman Beach, The Wick, at Tofino, British Columbia, has stunning opportunities for storm watching in public spaces and in the privacy of your own room.

WICKANINNISH INN 500 Osprey Lane at Chesterman Beach Tofino, BC 250-725-3100 www.wickinn.com

Riverfront Estate $1,550,000

Tremendous location for a winery and event center. Located just 3 miles from I-5 & the new Ilani Casino in La Center, WA. This property sits beautifully on the bank of the East Fork of the Lewis River with a 1,000 plus feet of frontage directly across from a County natural preserve area. The property boasts 21 rolling acres, 2 homes- one being of iconic mid-century design and a huge vintage barn perfect for pressing and events. Absolutely one of a kind property.

VIKI EIERDAM is a freelance writer based in Vancouver, Wash. She produces a wine and travel blog. Savorsipandsojourn.com

For a private showing call Erica L. Rodman 20

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Managing Broker 211 Davidson Ave. Woodland, WA 98674 360-281-0768 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


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FEATURE

mellisoni vineyards

Lake Chelan views come with every seat in the house on the patio at Mellisoni Vineyards.

Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi

“Mellisoni experience” awaits Lake Chelan visitors BY DAN RADIL

S

ome might argue that creating a successful winery in the Lake Chelan area is a simple enterprise. For years, North Central Washington has been a recreational playground, known for its scenic beauty and abundant sunshine to attract tourists. Still, location is only part of the equation. Few know that better than Rob and Donna Mellison of Mellisoni Vineyards. They have invested equal measures of hard work, toptier wines, and good old-fashioned customer service to create what they call the “Mellisoni experience.” It’s taken the typical tasting room visit to a level that leaves many customers feeling as if they just had a two-hour massage — with wine.

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INSPIRATION FROM ITALY

Rob is a Seattle native, while Donna is from Orange County, Calif. After meeting at Oregon State University in 1998, where Donna attended Pharmacy College, they purchased property in Chelan in 2002 with absolutely no intention of opening a winery. “We were just going to have our fifth wheel

MELLISONI VINEYARDS 3155 Hwy US-97 Alt. Chelan, WA 98816 Hours: Noon to 6 pm Daily Phone: (509) 293-1891 www.mellisonivineyards.com

(trailer) here,” Donna laughs, “(but) a trip to Italy that same year, 2002, is when it all started. When we came back, we decided to put (in) a boutique vineyard and winery.” The life-changing experience began after a week-long stay at a villa at Livernano Winery in Tuscany, where they met then-proprietor Marco Montanari and about 10 other guests from around the world. “We got to know them all, over this period of time, drinking wine and having fun,” recalls Rob. “And the cool thing about Montanari was his style of running the winery,” she added. “He was there for the entertaining as well as for the wine. That’s what matched up with us, because entertaining was one of our fortés.” On the plane trip back, they wasted no time in making plans for their newly purW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


mellisoni vineyards FEATURE chased Chelan property. “We said, let’s do this,” Rob recalled. “Let’s start a winery and bring this feeling, this experience, back to the States and do the same thing. Let’s give people the chance to come and meet each other and make new friends.”

Although the area’s wineries are certainly a draw for visitors, the Mellisons know that quality wines are also essential to bring people in, MORE WINERIES, and back, to their MORE VISITORS tasting room. While they were getting their winery startRob noted that ed, there were only about five or six others in Seattle-area resithe area, which today boasts more than 30. dents are frequent They decided to add an ‘i’ to their last name return visitors, to give it more of an Italian feel, then planted some with second their first vineyard of Riesling and Gewurzhomes, some just traminer grapes in 2006, with Pinot Grigio looking for a added in 2007. Their fifth wheeler served as weekend getaway. the original tasting room when the winery And while it Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi opened in 2010; but they replaced it four might be said The winery tasting room facility also serves as the Mellisons’ second-floor resiyears later with a beautiful facility that showthat their dence. cases a stunning, 180-degree hillside view of spending has led, the lake. in part, to higher “The town (of Chelan) has also changed in Chelan wine prices (including for example, complexity, we couldn’t sell it (at that price).” a great way (since we opened),” said Rob. the Mellison’s eye-popping $45-a-bottle, “The wineries have really driven the economy, five-red-wine-blend Rosé, which has long NEW VINEYARDS & WINES and it’s become a year-round resort now. since sold out), Donna doesn’t entirely agree. ON THE HORIZON We’re busy during the wintertime, which “It’s not just what the market can bear,” she In addition to their four acres of estate really translates well for all the other busisaid. “You have to think about the quality of vineyards, the Mellisons currently obtain nesses. Now they’re getting people when the the wine. No matter how pretty it looks, if it about half of their grapes from outside sourctown would pretty much close down.” doesn’t have the taste, the structure and the es; primarily Stillwater Creek Vineyard in the Royal Slope area, a pending Washington appellation. In 2018, the Mellisons will draw on an additional estate vineyard, plus a six-acre vineyard adjacent to nearby Tsillan Cellars, where they’ve partnered with the owner to plant Cabernet Sauvignon. Tasting room standards include the 3 Bastards, an equal-parts blend of Chardonnay, Roussanne and Viognier, and the 45˚, a 70 percent, 30 percent blend of Riesling and Gewurztraminer named for the estate’s steeply sloped vineyards. Future releases include a stainless-steel fermented Chardonnay, a rerelease of their stunning 60˚ Sangiovese, Barbera and Nebbiolo blend, and nine barrels of Port-style wine, which Rob plans to phase in on a yearly basis. In their tasting room, the Mellisons are focused on their successful formula for excellent customer service, which they feel has garnered plenty of word-of-mouth referrals and earned the winery near-cult status. Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi They’re still putting some finishing touches Rob and Donna Mellison chat while enjoying a glass of their 2014 Malbec. on the facility that also houses their living W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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FEATURE

mellisoni vineyards

We want people to walk out of our winery saying, “Wow, that was a really great place.” Rob Mellison quarters on the second level, and constantly working on new and better ways to keep visitors entertained and happy. That includes gently encouraging guests to move away from the sometimes crowded indoor tasting bar and step outside to the patio and terrace with its beautifully manicured lawn and gardens. While you relax in Adirondack chairs overlooking the lake, the Mellisoni staff will bring wines to you for tasting, along with made-to-order charcuterie plates and even big, cushy blankets to cuddle up in when the weather cools. “We don’t care for the ‘mosh pit-style’ tasting room,” Donna said. “Everything is sensory, so if you have a lot of noise and people bumping into you, those things distract from the tasting of the wine. We’re

Heymann Whinery

generally heavily staffed because we want to take care of the customer.” “Look out on the lawn,” added Rob, “and you’ll see everyone sitting out there with their groups and with their friends, enjoying themselves. We want people to walk out of our winery saying, ‘Wow, that was a really great place.’” It’s all part of the “Mellisoni experience” that, quite literally, includes opening their home, pouring excellent wines, and relaxing in a picture-perfect location. If it all seems a bit like a visit to an Italian villa in Tuscany, then the Mellisons have succeeded in making you feel like one of the family.

Zacchoreli Frescobaldi-Grimaldi

Cellarmaster Gustavo Valdovinos pours wine at the tasting bar as part of the “Mellisoni experience.”

Good food. Good friends. Always!

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Wine Tasting Wed.-Fri. 3-6pm Sat. Noon-5pm Sun. by Appointment 360-748-9675

731 SW 21st St., Chehalis, WA 98532 Email: h-whinery@localaccess.com 24

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DAN RADIL is a freelance wine writer based in Bellingham, Wash. Dan teaches wine classes at Bellingham Technical College and produces a wine blog, danthewineguy.com

Visconti’s Leavenworth WA

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Two Double Platinum, Six Platinums and One Happy Wine Club!

Each of these wines were hand selected and released to our wine club, join today! For more information call or email info@smasnecellars.com

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Enjoy our classic Oregon wines & breathtaking vineyard views Please join us and learn about the amazing story of our winery and the Oregon wine industry as you take in the sweeping views of the vineyard. The setting is warm and relaxing with cozy fireplaces and seating areas, and an expansive patio and courtyard.

Wine Tasting | Pairings Wine Dinners Daily Food Pairings Menu | Wine Tours

OPEN DAILY 11 AM - 6 PM WillametteValleyVineyards.com · 8800 Enchanted Way SE · Turner, OR 503-588-9463 · info@wvv.com · Jim Bernau, Founder/Winegrower W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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TASTING RESULTS

platinum

Pacific Northwest wine industry’s beauty pageant turns 18 BY ERIC DEGERMAN, ELLEN LANDIS AND KEN ROBERTSON

K

ENNEWICK, Wash. - Our Platinum Judging, the 18-year-old beauty pageant of the Pacific Northwest wine industry, never has been more gorgeously delicious. Each of these 660 entries was prescreened, a product of at least one respected wine competition somewhere around the globe where it merited a gold medal. So when the record number of 200 Platinum awards were revealed, there were many nods in agreement because of the track record of success from the winemaker, the house it came from or the grapes’ provenance. For example, Maryhill Winery — Wine Press Northwest’s 2015 Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year — amassed 12 Platinum awards. ReustlePrayer Rock Vineyards, which began 2017 with news of this magazine having named it the region’s top winery, provided year-end affirmation for Stephen Reustle by earning nine Platinums. A third of those were for the sublime Austrian white grape Grüner Veltliner, including the judging’s top wine, Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards 2014 Revelation & Sorek Bloc Estate Grüner Veltliner.

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It was no upset that the competition’s leading Cabernet Sauvignon came off Red Mountain, nor was it a surprise that second-generation vintner Scott Williams of Kiona Vineyards Winery not only grew the grapes and but also made the wine. Throughout the three-day tasting at the Clover Island Inn overlooking the Columbia River in Kennewick, Wash., other trends emerged. Our region’s exciting embrace of rosé resonated with judges, and the results show that consumers should continue to buy these wines year-round rather than be misled that there’s an expiration date of Labor Day for serious pink wine. Indeed, any of these rosés deserve a spot on the dining table throughout the holidays. A fascinating development was the high ranking of red wines made from grapes native to France’s Rhône Valley. Richard Batchelor’s work for Maryhill with Mourvèdre ranked as the Platinum Judging’s No. 2 red wine, followed by Robert Smasne and Robert Delf ’s 2014 Mourvèdre for Northwest Cellars. Smasne’s name will show up nearly a dozen

times within the list below as he earned eight of the judging’s top awards for wines made under his eponymous brand based in Prosser, plus three for Delf ’s label in Kirkland, Wash. Brian Carter Cellars, Wine Press Northwest’s 2015 Washington Winery of the Year, moved up on the Platinum’s all-time tote board with six awards and doing so in extraordinary fashion. Perhaps the region’s most decorated when it comes to proprietary blends, Carter earned 2017 Platinums for two vintages of his Petit Verdot-based Trentenaire — a 2007 and 2013. He also continued his stellar work with his Byzance. The 2013 vintage marked the fourth time in the past six years he’s earned a Platinum for this GSM-style blend based on Grenache. Another Washington winemaker with a Midas touch with Rhône varieties, Ron Bunnell, came through with six Platinum awards, five of them involving grapes native to Rhône. That list includes a GSM blend that the former Chateau Ste. Michelle winemaker made for the brand belonging to his friend Todd Newhouse, the acclaimed

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Snipes Mountain grower. Of course, there’s the King of the Platinum, Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery along the Golden Mile Bench in British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley. Gordon grows the grapes for Walter, who transformed them into six Platinums. Five of those wines retail for $15 or less in Canada. About 50 kilometers to the north on the Naramata Bench, Jeff Martin’s La Frenz Winery produced five Platinum wines in a variety of styles, moving him into the top 10 all-time of Platinum awards. If you count Mexican-born Victor Palencia’s work for Jones of Washington, he also cracked the all-time top 10 after earning three Platinums for his young namesake brand, two under his Vino la Monarcha label and another for the Jones family. His five personal Platinums medals will be showcased in his new production facility/tasting room that’s a stone’s throw from Columbia River in downtown Kennewick. Zerba Cellars in the Walla Walla Valley continues to rely on its own vineyards for much of its success, generating four Platinums for reds plus a sweet surprise in the ice wine category. Longtime winemaker Doug Nierman moved on this fall, but he left the Zerbas with a cellar full of award winners in Milton-Freewater, Ore. Beyond the plaudits for Reustle, the Platinum Judging continues to showcase the talented leadership that’s often overlooked in Southern Oregon. Earl Jones and Andrew Wenzl at Abacela south of Roseburg earned a fifth career Platinum just for Albariño. They also won their fourth career Platinum for Grenache rosé as part of this year’s four-

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Platinum performance. In total, Umpqua Valley producers hauled in 19 Platinums when combined with those won by Brandborg Vineyard & Winery (three) and Spangler Vineyards (three). And while those prominent producers continue to impress in judgings across the country, Schmidt Family Vineyards in the historic Applegate Valley made a statement with four Platinums that again showcased Southern Oregon strengths — Albariño, Tempranillo and Syrah. Along the coast of Washington, Westport Winery Garden Resort again showed why it pays to spend more on quality grapes. Newlywed winemaker Dana Roberts used the Sauer family’s venerable Red Willow Vineyard and Milo May’s gorgeous and youthful Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills to earn three Platinums. But Roberts also netted a Platinum using ocean-influenced fruit to make his perennially delicious sparkling cranberry wine. Our judges this year were Kristine Bono, direct to consumer manager for Tertulia Cellars, Walla Walla, Wash.; Ilene Dudunake, owner of A New Vintage Wine Shop, Meridian, Idaho; Gary Hayes, president of Explorer Media Group and the Savor NW Wine Awards, Cannon Beach, Ore.; Ellen Landis, journalist/sommelier, Vancouver, Wash.; Gregg McConnell, publisher emeritus of Wine Press Northwest; Andy Perdue, wine columnist for The Seattle Times, Richland, Wash; April Reddout, wine program director for the Walter Clore Wine & Culinary Center, Prosser, Wash.; Barb Robertson, account manager for M.A. Silva and wine columnist for Foothills magazine, Wenatchee, Wash.; and Steven Sinkler, owner of The Wine

Shack, Cannon Beach, Ore. Moderators were Eric Degerman of Great Northwest Wine; retired educator Hank Sauer, Kennewick, Wash; and Ken Robertson, Wine Press Northwest columnist, Kennewick, Wash.

Best of the Best Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $24 2014 Revelation & Sorek Bloc Estate Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley Stephen Reustle caps his reign as the Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year by topping the 2017 Platinum Judging with his flagship bottling of Grüner Veltliner. His pioneering work with the noble white grape of Austria elicited an audible “Wow!” from panelists as irresistible aromatics jump from the glass. On the palate, well-defined flavors of green apple, fresh pea shoots, tropical fruit, a pinch of white pepper and a thread of minerality meld harmoniously. It’s pure with lively acids and a forever finish. (680 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: American Fine Wine Invitational (gold).

Double Platinum Rio Vista Wines $21 2016 Sunset on the River, Columbia Valley The Little family’s unique and picturesque winery along the Columbia River is accessible by boat, and they’ve blended Pinot Gris and Gewürztraminer from their estate with Viognier from nearby Antoine Creek Vineyard for a beautifully made and fun blush-style wine. Its combination of raspberry, pink strawberry and Rainier cherry runs through

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the creamy midpalate of Viognier before it finishes with a pop of acidity. (258 cases, 12.8% alc.) Awards: Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival (best of class), Seattle Wine Awards (double gold). Kiona Vineyards $25 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Washington While the listed AVA is “Washington,” all of the fruit for this “giant killer” Cab hails from Red Mountain, and nearly all of it from Williams family vineyards. Scott Williams tames the tannins so that consumers can easily appreciate the nuances of dark cherry, raspberry, cocoa and slate, backed by hints of baking spices such as anise and clove. It’s crowd-pleasing, yet balanced, Cab that’s priced for a case purchase. (2,000 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). Maryhill Winery $38 2014 Elephant Mountain Mourvèdre, Rattlesnake Hills Richard Batchelor collaborates with grower Joel Hattrup to produce a marvelous expression of Mourvèdre grown in Washington. Scents of a bowl of fresh berries rise from the glass. It’s juicy and pure with exacting balance as flavors of loganberry, cocoa, black currant and a subtle whiff of smoke lead to a long and clean finish of Mandarin orange. Ask about it at their new tasting room overlooking the Spokane River. (296 cases, 14.7% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). Northwest Cellars $28 2013 Mourvèdre, Yakima Valley Yakima Valley native Robert Smasne and Kirkland,

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Wash., vintner Robert Delf pull from Dick Boushey’s renowned vineyard for this perfumed and enticing example of Mourvèdre with plenty of power, yet this gem stays remarkably light on its feet. Deeply fruited with wild berry, Bing cherry and black raspberry, it is supported by a firm structure and well integrated tannins. (46 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Robert Ramsay Cellars $32 2014 Cinsault, Horse Heaven Hills The Woodinville winemaking duo of Casey Cobble and Robert Ramsay Harris show a real flair with this relatively obscure red Rhône Valley grape. Heavenly aromas from this lot of McKinley Springs Vineyard lead to layers of strawberry, Rainier cherry, red licorice, and tea spice filling the mouth. There’s purity, precision and balance with pleasing length. (253 cases, 15.4% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold). Smasne Cellars $48 2012 Red Heaven Vineyard Petite Sirah, Red Mountain One of Washington’s hottest young vineyards shines in the hands of viticulturist Damon Lalonde and winemaker Robert Smasne. This powerful red grape native to the Rhône offers intense dark fruits on the nose as it moves to rich, concentrated tones of blackberry, semi-sweet chocolate, loganberry, Damson plum jam and black pepper notes on the palate. Its finish is energetic. (84 cases, 13.9% alc.) Awards: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (double gold). Block Wines $50 2015 Stoney Vine Vineyard Ankleroller

Block Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Seattle wine merchant and writing talent Paul Zitarelli works with a number of Washington’s top winemakers and growers to produce small lots of amazing wines for his Full Pull Wines club members. In this case, he teamed up with Morgan Lee of Covington Cellars/Two Vintners and bought fruit from one of Dusted Valley Vintners’ parcels in The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater. The result is deep, rich and dark black fruit notes with hints of cigar box and white pepper. It shows excellent balance and a long finish with lingering touches of exotic spices, savory herbs and black olive. (55 cases, 14.9% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Invitational (gold). Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $30 2014 Hundredth Valley Pinot Noir, Elkton, Oregon Young vineyards in the hands of an experienced vigneron often yield amazing fruit-forward wines, and Terry Brandborg works with fourth-leaf Pommard and Dijon 828 clone berries for this unanimous Platinum of Pinot Noir. The Umpqua River is known as the river of One Hundred Valleys, and this is beautifully silky drink. Dark cherry, white pepper and moist earth aromas carry into flavors of cherry pie, a nice touch of oak and finish of orange oil. Its integration is perfect. (162 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Competition (double gold). Brian Carter Cellars $50 2013 Trentenaire Red Wine, Yakima Valley Few winemakers would attempt to create a MerW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


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itage-style red wine using Petit Verdot (62%) as the foundation, but master blender Brian Carter shows the way with this wine that references, in French, the Oregon native’s three decades as a winemaker in Washington. StoneTree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope contributes much of the five-variety Bordeaux blend, which offers violets and dark fruit on the nose. The palate, rich in flavor with black raspberry, licorice and Montmorency cherry, includes a touch of herbs and a thread of minerality. It’s complex and remarkably balanced through the cocoa-dusted finish. (218 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Cascadia Wine Competition (gold). Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle $9 2016 Dry Riesling, Columbia Valley A year ago, the 2015 vintage of this wine was voted as the Platinum’s “Best of the Best.” The latest bottling by Bob Bertheau and David Rosenthal repeated as the best example of Riesling in the judging. Mouthwatering aromas of orange peel, lavender and dried rose petals transition to flavors that blend tropical fruit and stone fruit. Brilliant acidity and touch of minerality create the perfect mouth feel for a Riesling. Fortunately, Ste. Michelle increased production of this by more than 50 percent from the 2015 vintage. (150,000 cases, 12.5% alc.) Awards: Washington State Wine Competition (double gold, best of class). College Cellars of Walla Walla $25 2015 GSM Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley The storied winemaking program launched by Myles Anderson of Walla Walla Vintners fame is in

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great hands with Tim Donahue as its awardwinning instructor. His students spun into Double Platinum this blend of Grenache (45%), Mourvèdre (37%) and Syrah from Inland Desert Vineyard near Red Mountain and the Zerba family’s Cockburn Vineyard in the Walla Walla. Crushed ripe berries on the nose funnel into stunning flavors of Santa Rosa plum, raspberry,pomegranate and cranberry with savory spice. It’s complex, lively, lush, elegant and lingering. (200 cases, 14.4 alc.) Award: San Francisco International Wine Competition (double gold). Gravel Bar Winery $20 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley California behemoths continue to deepen their interests in Washington state, and this young brand belongs to the Franzia family’s Bronco Wine Co. New York native Bob Stashak graduated from University of California-Davis in 1973 and made sparkling wine for 20 years prior to aligning himself with the folks behind “Two Buck Chuck.” His approach to Washington Cab, much of it from the Wahluke Slope, fits in with some of the year’s best examples, offering black cherry and huckleberry tones joined by smoked meat, baking spices, dried herbs and dark chocolate. (5,000 cases, 14.5% alc.) Awards: San Diego International Wine & Spirits Challenge (gold), Washington Wine Awards (gold). La Frenz Winery $22 2016 Naramata Bench Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley

Dominic McCosker and Jeff Martin use three separate picks and stainless-steel fermentation along with a concrete egg to create a wow factor that excites the senses with this sassy Sauvignon Blanc. Sweet Meyer lemon, kiwi and firm, tartfleshed white grapefruit flow onto the palate. Zippy acids carry the vivacious wine to a lemon grass-tinged finish. (1,092 cases, 12% alc.) Award: Dan Berger’s International Competition in California (gold). Madsen Family Cellars $32 2011 Lady Macbeth Red Wine, Columbia Valley A number of nicely aged red wines qualified for the 2017 Platinum, and South Puget Sound producer Dana Madsen’s blend inspired by the Right Bank in Bordeaux is showing beautifully. StoneTree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope and Destiny Ridge Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills contribute a majority of the grapes, resulting in a wine that’s focused, velvety and fruity with black plum, blueberries and strawberries, joined by notions of laurel leaf and a spicy finale. (90 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Cascadia Wine Competition (gold). Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $23 2016 Estate Cuvée Sauvignon Blanc, Umpqua Valley Considering his track record with Grüner, it makes sense that Stephen Reustle shines with Sauvignon Blanc, too. Engaging aromas are signs of brilliant varietal expression with gooseberry, lemon-lime soda and the perfect touch of herbs. Those descriptors also apply to the flavor profile as it simply

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dances on the palate with lively acidity and a finish that’s vivid and everlasting. (385 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Awards (gold). Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $24 2015 Revelation & Sorek Bloc Estate Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley This younger sister of the 2017 Platinum’s top wine proved its parentage. Scents of honeysuckle and citrus fruit engage the senses. Rich and mouthfilling with layers of chamomile, lemon-lime, hints of lychee and classic white pepper mix with a solid spine of acidity to keep it lively. (600 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (best of class, double gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (double gold), Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold). Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $32 2015 Masada Bloc Estate Syrah, Umpqua Valley Yes, Stephen Reustle’s entries produced four Double Platinums, and his work with Syrah comes as no surprise in the wake of his 2015 Six Nations best-of-class honor in Australia. That honor no doubt inspired him to work on this Syrah, which features roasted coffee and dried fig in nose, followed by blackberries and blueberries. It’s sultry and smooth, a siren of a Syrah, that’s capped by Montmorency cherry acidity. (475 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Awards (gold). Smasne Cellars $44 2012 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Block #4 Syrah, Horse Heaven Hills

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One of Washington’s largest vineyards sets the table for Robert Smasne. Fruit dominates with raspberries on the nose, which brings a palate full of wild berries, charcuterie and savory spices. The meticulous balance makes for a memorable finish. In its youth now, there’s the promise of a long life. (154 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold). Vino La Monarcha $20 2014 Sangiovese, Wahluke Slope Rosebud Vineyard, one of the state’s oldest and most overlooked plantings, has been the source of Victor Palencia’s own Sangiovese program, and this signals his best effort. Cherries and a hint of earth on the nose are enticing. Spiced cherry, black licorice and a sprinkling of herbs flow in harmony across the palate, and linger on the memorable finish. (150 cases, 14.8% alc.) Awards: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (best of class, gold). Alexandria Nicole Cellars $23 2016 Destiny Ridge Vineyards Estate Steel Horse Sauvignon Blanc, Horse Heaven Hills Next year marks the 20th anniversary of the first planting at Destiny Ridge, and this white Bordeaux variety is one of the two dozen varieties established across the 267 acres. The alluring nose of grapefruit and lemon/lime portends juiciness, and there’s some fleshy stone fruit on the entry with peach and apricot, yet it finishes with a wow like a slice of Key Lime pie. Suggested pairings include oysters, scallops, cumin-influenced vegetable pasta or chicken breast marinated with tomatoes and

cilantro. (543 cases, 13.2%) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). 14 Hands Winery $30 2013 The Reserve Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills The success of Ste. Michelle Wine Estate’s fastestgrowing brand goes beyond its flagship Hot to Trot red blend as winemaker Keith Kenison saddles up one of the Platinum’s top Merlot entries. Notes of blueberry jam, President plum and Bing cherry carry the remarkable backbone of minerality that’s a thumbprint of so many wines from the Horse Heaven Hills. Its substantial tannins will soften in the cellar, or enjoy in the meantime with a braised lamb shank. (622 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold). Kiona Vineyards and Winery $35 2015 Estate Fortunate Sun Late Harvest Chenin Blanc, Red Mountain Two historic blocks of Chenin Blanc on Red Mountain, the oldest planted in 1976, allowed the Williams family to experiment with a new sweet wine project. They’ve dubbed it “Fortunate Sun” because they managed the canopy to sun-dry the grapes into raisins and hang the berries to reach 36 Brix of sugar. It’s not an ice wine by its nature, but the structure is remarkably similar. Poached peach, apricot glacée, nuts and whipped honey combine for a mouth-coating experience that’s not syrupy. The pleasantly tart finish counteracts the 21% residual sugar and keeps you coming back. (670 cases, 9.5% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (double gold.)

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Palencia Winery $20 2016 Sauvignon Blanc, Columbia Valley Victor Palencia, one of the Northwest’s magicians with aromatic white wines, follows up his 2016 Platinum-winning Sauvignon Blanc with this Double Platinum example. The proven formula of Frenchman Hills Vineyard and Hungarian oak puncheons makes for a bright, tart and perfect Sauv Blanc that’s brimming with lemon, fresh-cut celery, a faint whiff of tomcat and a dusting of minerality. It’s capped by ripe — yet not sweet — lime. (500 cases, 12.1% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold) Page Cellars $33 2013 Lick My Lips Merlot, Red Mountain Woodinville pilot/winemaker Jim Page continues to win awards beyond the Northwest for his Merlot program. Spicy and alluring on the nose, this is sophisticated, multi-dimensional Merlot. Layers of black currant, blackberry, pink peppercorns, truffles, cedar, clove and semi-sweet chocolate grace the palate, where polished tannins extended its length. (239 cases, 14.2% alc.) Awards: Denver International Wine (gold), Finger Lakes Wine Competition (gold). TERO Estates $38 2013 Petit Verdot, Walla Walla Valley Doug Roskelley’s two-barrels of prized Petit Verdot from his Windrow Vineyard, the Walla Walla Valley’s oldest commercial planting, reveal this lesser-known Bordeaux variety’s character that’s often blended into Meritage-style wines. Richly concentrated from the expressive aroma, it transi32

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tions through the lush blackberry and dark plum fruit that melds with toasty oak nuances on the midpalate. Complex and full-bodied with chalky tannins, its firm structure persists alongside the savory finish of black olive. (47 cases, 14.1% alc.) Awards: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold), Oregon Wine Awards (double gold). Westport Winery $28 2015 Mermaid Merlot, Columbia Valley The Roberts family readily credits its association with grower Mike Sauer and his Red Willow Vineyard for helping this Washington coastal winery win awards for red wine, and for this plush, fruit-forward example. There’s creaminess to the sweet blue fruit profile of elderberry, black currant and black cherry. A dab of sweetness and finegrained tannins make this an ideal pour for those who find Washington Merlot too bold. (88 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold.) Block Wines NV Marchant Vineyard $28 Farmhouse Block Extra Brut Sparkling Pinot Noir Rosé, Yakima Valley Paul Zitarelli studied math at Harvard prior to moving out to the Northwest and launching Full Pull Wines in Seattle, soon earning a pair of retailer awards from the Washington State Wine Commission. Among his club offerings is this continuing collaboration with bubble producer Christian Grieb of Treveri Cellars. Their latest edition is filled with finesse, an effervescence of ripe raspberry, prickly pear and Asian pear. It’s eminently approachable, bringing delicate yet mouth-filling

mousse. (71 cases, 12% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Invitational (gold). DeLille Cellars $48 2014 D2 Red Wine, Columbia Valley Founding winemaker Chris Upchurch recently celebrated the 25th anniversary of DeLille Cellars, and Wine Press Northwest’s reigning Washington Winery of the Year continues to grow its flagship wine - a Right-Bank Bordeaux that’s centered on Red Mountain since the 2001 harvest. The 18 months in 55% new French oak help account for its dark brambleberries and mocha-dusted cherries with lavender. Its tannin management is exquisitely sweet and fine-grained for a long glide. This came in as one of the judging’s most-decorated wines and departed a Double Platinum. (11,750 cases, 14.3% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold), Sunset International Wine Competition (gold), TEXSOM International Wine Awards (gold), Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (double gold). Kiona Vineyards $42 2013 Estate Red Mountain Reserve, Red Mountain Cab is king on Red Mountain, which explains why it leads the Williams clan’s flagship blend of the six Bordeaux varieties they grow on their Heart of the Hill and Kiona Estate sites. Fragrant aromas lead to stunning flavors of plum, licorice, cherry and leather, joining accents of fresh flowers and leather. A nice thread of minerality and plenty of grip on the memorable finish. (1,600 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Savor W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


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Northwest Wine Awards (double gold.) La Frenz Winery $24 2016 Probyn-Eastman Vineyard Naramata Bench Viognier, Okanagan Valley A safe bet it was that a Viognier from British Columbia’s Okanagan Valley would make the best impression at the Platinum, and Aussie-born Dominic McCosker is money with this Rhône white that tends to be flabby and bitter in other regions. Intense, oak-free aromatics of Bosc pear, clementine and honey are matched on the palate. His 2-to-1 ratio of stainless steel vs. concrete egg fermentation provides a mouth-coating midpalate of orange Creamsicle that’s refreshed by a charming touch of lemon. (878 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: InterVin International Wine Awards (gold). Thurston Wolfe $16 2015 Dr. Wolfe’s Family Red, Horse Heaven Hills Ste. Michelle recruited Wade Wolfe to Washington in 1978 as a winemaking Ph.D. trained in California. During his four decades in the Columbia Valley, he developed into one of the state’s most talented mavericks and going beyond traditional formulas to make delightful blends. His Family Red is emblematic of that with its components of Zinfandel (48%), Petite Sirah (34%), Lemberger (11%) and Grenache. It’s luscious and delicious, combining strawberry, blackberry, smoky milk chocolate and creamy vanilla, providing a full experience of juiciness alongside dusty tannins. (1,500 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Washington State Wine Competition (gold).

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Westport Winery $28 2015 Charterboat Chick Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Blackberry, black cherry; bit of apply character at the tip of the tongue, leading to fruity, juicy acidity, nutmeg, cocoa and supremely elegant tannins at the end. Second year in a row winning a Platinum. (126 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold). Abacela $18 2016 Estate Grenache Rosé, Umpqua Valley A year ago, Andrew Wenzl’s rosé for the Jones family finished as the No. 3 wine overall in the Platinum. This Double Platinum proves they have their program dialed in and may trick some into believing it to be a rosé from Tavel. The nose of Jolly Rancher watermelon candy and orange blossom spills into flavors of cherry pie filling and nectarine, framed by orangy spot-on acid. (656 cases, 13.2% alc.) Awards: Pacific Rim International Wine Competition (best of class, gold), San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold.) Maryhill Winery $36 2014 Proprietor’s Reserve Grenache, Columbia Valley Right now, this juicy red Rhône grape might be the most coveted variety in Washington, and New Zealand native Richard Batchelor topped the field of eight qualifying Grenache bottlings. Art den Hoed’s planting in the Yakima Valley was blended with Gunkel Vineyard near Batchelor’s winery, and it’s remarkably expressive. Wild berries and plums

aromas are joined by smoky bacon fat and espresso. On the palate, it’s red and juicy as currants, dried Montmorency cherry and pomegranate bookend the midpalate of sweet spice cake. (681 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold.)

Platinum Upchurch Vineyard $70 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain It’s a lofty goal of Chris and Thea Upchurch for their Red Mountain estate project to be viewed as a “First Growth” of Washington state, but the consistent reception for their Cabs, starting with the debut 2010 vintage, is matching those aspirations. Storied viticulturist Dick Boushey sets the table for the DeLille winemaker, who presents a theme of cassis, strawberry-rhubarb compote and dark Chukar Cherry. There’s a hint of anise and rub of tarragon in the background, where charming blueberry skin tannins are nicely presented. (700 cases, 14.6% alc.) Awards: Great Northwest Invitational (best of class, gold). Elevation Cellars $25 2012 Merlot, Columbia Valley Stillwater Creek Vineyard, a cornerstone site within the proposed Royal Slope American Viticultural Area, shines in the hands of Woodinville winemaker Steven Stuart. A 22-month program of 50% new French oak sets the stage for fruit aromas to make their way to good depth and clear varietal correctness on the palate. Blueberry, cassis, black cherry, fresh tobacco and minerally notes are supported by nice, chalky tannins. It’s pleasing

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from first sip to last and one of the top Washington Merlots. (300 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold.) Best Buy! Intrigue Wines $15 2016 Social White, Okanagan Valley British Columbia veteran winemaker Roger Wong is well-positioned in Lake Country north of Kelowna to produce some of the Northwest’s most alluring aromatic whites. His Riesling-based blend with Gewürztraminer (27%) begins with petrol on the nose, which makes it clear what’s in the glass. Nectarines, lemon lime soda and peaches in the mouth are laced with wet stone minerality and a touch of herbs. The finish is both bright and lengthy. (3,025 cases, 11.2% alc.) Award: British Columbia Best of Varietal Awards (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold). JoieFarm Winery $26 2015 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley This graceful Pinot Noir from Naramata Bench producer Heidi Noble with Dijon clones 115, 667 and 777 is reminiscent of a fine red Burgundy. Pure and precise with layers of red cherry, clove, cola, mushroom and earthy nuances, the subtle oak caps off a pristine package. (914 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold.) Malaga Springs Winery $26 2015 Cabernet Franc, Washington Al Mathews, a recently retired Alaska commercial fisherman, continues his emergence as one of the

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Cascade Valley Wine Country’s top winemakers with this stellar example of Cabernet Franc. The bouquet of elderberry and black Damson plums, brown sugar, violets and herbal tea is joined by on the palate with a pinch of herbaceousness and Van cherry notes. (90 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival (gold). Skaha Vineyard $19 2016 Mystique White Wine, Okanagan Valley The folks behind Kraze Legz Winery, Gerry and Susan Thygesen, grew this blend of Pinot Blanc (70%) Chardonnay (30%) as part of the singlevineyard series from their site above Skaha Lake. What’s not to love here? Aromas of fresh-cut pineapple from Hawaii and pink grapefruit are matched on the palate with mango, honeydew melon and a touch of sugar cane. (218 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: 2017 All-Canadian Wine Awards (gold). Smasne Cellars $44 2012 Upland Vineyard Ancient Rocks Red Wine, Snipes Mountain As a Yakima Valley farm boy, Robert Smasne grew up not far from Snipes Mountain, so it’s natural that he’d choose to work with the Newhouse family on this Southern Rhône blend that includes a splash of Viognier. This signals just his third bottling on this project, and it’s very much in the footsteps of the award-winning 2011 vintage. Strawberry compote aromas lead you into the glass, and juicy strawberry is mirrored on the palate, joining red raspberry, loganberry, and white pepper

accents. Bracing acidity helps to make it a beautiful food pairing wine. (200 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold). Avennia $65 2014 Sestina Red Wine, Columbia Valley Chris Peterson, a proud product of Walla Walla Community College’s inaugural class of winemakers, pays homage to the Left Bank of Bordeaux with this Cab-based blend from old blocks at Red Willow and Sagemoor. His deft touch with 60% new French oak doesn’t get in the way of the aromas that are reminiscent of Knott’s Berry Farm boysenberry syrup and black currant with savory and smoky notes. There’s brightness to the purple fruit’s suave profile that includes touches of cinnamon, clove and moist earth. (486 cases, 14.6% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition Basalt Cellars $18 2013 Barbera, Columbia Valley There are less than 4 acres of this Italian grape planted at venerable Sagemoor Vineyard near the Hanford Reach National Monument, and LewisClark Valley vintner Rick Wasem doted on his four barrels-worth of Barbera. On the nose, you’ll find prominent aromas of blackberry pie, sweet tobacco, black licorice and a hint of lavender. Flavors of juicy plum are upfront on the palate, balanced by some earthy notes of wet stones and dark chocolate, trailing off to a finessed finish showing tart cherry, savory herbs and peppery spice (98 cases, 14.8% alc.) Awards: Savor Northwest (double gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

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Basalt Cellars $48 2014 Francine Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Pharmacist/winemaker Rick Wasem continues his award-winning work with Bacchus Block 9 Cab from Sagemoor, and this bottling showcases the intriguing work with his Seguin Moreau French oak microvinificator, a 700-liter setup he’s nicknamed “Francine” and rarely seen in the Pacific Northwest. It smells youthful with cherry taffy and a wisp of smoke, leading to raspberry jam and boysenberry flavors. Gravelly yet approachable tannins give it a full-bodied structure that will pair well with pulled pork. (72 cases, 15% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $18 2014 Gewürztraminer, Elkton, Oregon Seven years ago, New York Times critic Eric Asimov lauded Terry Brandborg for his work with this aromatic white from Alsace. This bottling proves that the Umpqua Valley winemaker remains among the continent’s elite. It’s rich and stylish from the heady perfumed aroma through the full-flavored palate. Layers of lychee nut, gardenia, mango, passion fruit and a touch of spice entwine with a hint of minerality. (937 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold). Brian Carter Cellars $38 2013 Byzance Red Wine, Columbia Valley Inspired by Châteauneuf-du-Pape, Brian Carter’s winning formula of Grenache, Syrah and MourW I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

vèdre from Boushey, Lonesome Springs, Stillwater Creek and StoneTree also includes Counoise and Cinsault. Alluring signs of barrel influence include caramel and mocha that allow for a rush of cherry and raspberry that’s finished by a pinch of sweet dill, toasted walnut and clove. (868 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold.) Bunnell Family Cellar $46 2007 Boushey-McPherson Syrah, Yakima Valley Dick Boushey grew grapes that factored into more than a dozen Platinum qualifiers. Syrah is a speciality for both Boushey and Prosser, Wash., winemaker Ron Bunnell. This bottling has entered its second decade of life and the structure is predictably refined and balanced, allowing for enjoyment of the still-intense black fruits, savory notes, grilled meat and earthiness. (180 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). Bunnell Family Cellar $54 2014 Upland Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Snipes Mountain While he ranks among the Northwest’s premier producers of Rhône-inspired wines, considering that he spent time working in Napa at Beringer and Charles Krug, it makes sense that Ron Bunnell’s skill also shows with Washington Cab. Lovely dark blue fruit, black spices, mint and dusty tannins leads to a crowd-pleaser of a Cab that gave one judge a case of the shivers. (73 cases, 14.3% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold).

Best Buy! Camas Prairie Winery $14 NV Raspberry Mead, Idaho Owner/winemaker Jeremy Ritter continues the award-winning work with mead in the Gem State. He ferments raspberries with wildflower honey, and those two aromas intrigue the senses. Red raspberries, a touch of maple syrup, cherries and wildflower honey create a burst of flavors on the palate. It’s vibrant and expressive with precise offsetting acidity for the 4% residual sugar. (200 cases, 12% alc.) Award: Idaho Wine Competition (best sweet wine). Cave B Estate Winery $25 2016 Cave B Vineyards Roussanne, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley The Bryans recently sold the resort and spa amid their vines to focus efforts on the grapes and award-winning wines made by their son-in-law Freddy Arredondo. Roussanne is a recent addition to the 100 acres they farm, and it rocks with minerality, nectarine and star fruit flavors that are sleek and balanced as fresh apple notes kick in on the finish. (200 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold). Claar Cellars $22 2013 White Bluffs Syrah, Columbia Valley Joe Hudon graduated from Washington State University’s horticulture program and worked for industry giants such as Gallo, Columbia Crest and Hogue Cellars before joining the Claar team in 2010. Fruit from their salmon-safe, 130-acre vineyard allows Hudon to craft a dark blue-fruited W i n t e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Syrah that’s bright with acidity and low on wood. An array of peppered bacon, allspice, toast and a lovely touch of violet in the finish mesh with the great mouth feel. (106 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle (double gold). Clearwater Canyon Cellars $42 2014 Coco’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Lewis-Clark Valley Co-petitioners of the Lewis-Clark Valley appellation, Coco Umiker and her viticulturist husband Karl used only L-C Valley fruit for this heady Cab - Rock ‘n J, Arnett and their estate vineyard. Distinctive and delicious, it’s approachable yet ageworthy as dusty dark fruit, mint, basil and lavender flow over beautifully textured tannins. (151 cases, 14.7% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold). College Cellars $20 2016 RVM White Wine, Walla Walla Valley A year ago, a trio of students under the watchful eye of instructors Tim Donahue and Sabrina Lueck turned this class project into one of the Northwest’s best blends of white Rhône varieties. Roussanne (48%), Viognier (17%) and Marsanne spent five months in neutral oak, and the fresh white flower bridal bouquet aroma takes your breath away. Balanced and vivacious with snappy acidity, crisp pear, tarragon, jicama, peach schnapps, minerally notes and hints of vanilla delight the palate that finishes bright and long. (13.7% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold.)

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Crayelle $23 2016 Spanish Castle Vineyard Rosé, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Ivy League product Craig Mitrakul uses Grenache from this stunning young Milbrandt planting to produce an exquisitely done rosé. Rose petals, Rainier cherry and nectarine accents lead to a silky, full-bodied and dry pink that’s capped by a squirt of tangerine. (75 cases, 13% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Michelle Loosen $60 2014 Eroica Riesling Ice Wine, Horse Heaven Hills Ste. Michelle has been making ice wine since 1978, and this 2014 harvest marks the 15th anniversary of its collaboration with German icon Ernst Loosen. Their pick off Horse Heaven Vineyard this year came Nov. 21, and it’s perfectly made with aromas of peach blossom, breeze-dried linen, tropical notes, baked pears with sweet spices, a hint of petrol and Meyer lemon acidity. (800 cases, 9% alc.) Award: American Fine Wine Invitational (gold). Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 2016 Dry Rock Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc, Okanagan Valley This marks the fifth time that Walter and Gordon Gehringer have earned a Platinum for their Sauv Blanc. It’s predictably expressive and pure with a hint of grassiness on the nose before guava and gooseberry meet a thread of minerality on the

palate. Lemon verbena adds depth, leading to the long and refreshing finish. (548 cases, 13.2% alc.) Award: B.C. Best of Varietal Wine Awards (double gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold). Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $14 2016 Ehrenfelser, Okanagan Valley Germans studying at Geisenheim developed Ehrenfelser by crossing Riesling and Silvaner, and the Rheingau school is where Walter studied, so perhaps it’s natural for these brothers to now have won six Platinums with this grape in the past eight years. Floral aromas make way for a lovely mouthful of peaches, pears, citrus blossom and apricots with a hint of almond extract. The nice level of sweetness is offset by crisp acidity and a touch of tannin, keeping the wine vibrant. (2,800 cases, 12.9% alc.) Award: Los Angeles International Wine Awards (gold), Indy International Wine Competition (gold). Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $13 2016 Private Reserve Dry Riesling, Okanagan Valley Based on recent history, perhaps the only dry Riesling in the region that’s showier is from Chateau Ste. Michelle because this marks the third straight vintage to have earned a Platinum. Classic notes of Granny Smith apple, petrol and lingering minerality set up remarkable balance. (2,000 cases,

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SUNDAY FEBRUARY 25

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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13.1% alc.) Awards: Los Angeles International Wine Awards (gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold). Harbinger Winery $28 2013 Malbec, Wahluke Slope Olympic Peninsula winemaker Sara Gagnon continues her success with Malbec from Weinbau, one of Washington’s first vineyards on the Wahluke Slope. Varietal purity abounds as the deep, dark core of blueberry and plum carries hints of earthiness, coffee and smokiness. Chalky tannins, skilled oak management and savory black olive notes give it plenty of length. (248 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (double gold). Best Buy! Hedges Family Estate $15 2014 C.M.S. Columbia Valley Red Mountain winemaker Sarah Hedges Goedhart oversees this blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah that’s priced for everyday enjoyment. Damsom plums dusted in cocoa along with cherry juice, elderberry and a pinch of Herbs de Provence. Montmorency cherry and purple Marionberry flavors keep the emphasis on food-friendly acidity as the dusty tannins combine for a balanced structure. (30,000 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold). Hedges Family Estate $60 2014 Grand Class Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain

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The Hedges manage 120 acres across Red Mountain and continue to transition them to certified Demeter Biodynamic farming. Four of those sites factor into this selection from Jolet (40%) Bel’ Villa (38%), the historic estate vineyard and Magdalena (9%). It’s youthful, gorgeous, and classy from sendoff to finish as cassis, Craisins and Chukar Cherries dusted with cocoa powder include hints of forest floor as well as minerality. Based on the track record of Cab from this family, this is only just beginning to settle in for two decades of enjoyment. (635 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: TriCities Wine Festival (gold). Kana Winery $22 2012 Dark Star Red Wine, Columbia Valley In the 18th Platinum, there were 17 red blends devoted to Rhône varieties, and this Syrah-based wine by Yakima vintner Tony Lombardo using StoneTree Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope ranked among the best. It’s redolent of savory meats and bacon, backed by chocolate-covered cherries, leather and cigar box notes. Juicy acidity from the Grenache leaves the Mourvèdre-laced tannin structure in the background. (300 cases, 15% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). La Frenz Winery $35 2015 Naramata Bench Reserve Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley A pair of Aussies - young Dominic McCosker and founder Jeff Martin - hand-sorted through lots of clones 115, 777, 828 and 667 on their way to 15 months in 30% new French oak. Engaging forest floor scents clearly scream Pinot Noir, and palate

offers a continuation as it’s earth-driven, with dried cherry, cranberry, wet stone and truffle accents. It’s unfined, unfiltered, stylish, immaculately balanced and serves as an example of why La Frenz was invited to pour at the 2017 International Pinot Noir Conference in Oregon. (403 cases, 13.7% alc.) Awards: Six Nations Wine Challenge (double gold), InterVin International Wine Awards (gold). Best Buy! Latah Creek Wine Cellars $13 2016 Rosé of Malbec, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Second-generation winemaker Natalie ConwayBarnes uses Malbec from Familigia Vineyard near the Gorge Amphitheater for this blush-style rosé. It’s brilliantly hued with alluring tones of strawberry, red cherry and currant that get carried by racy acidity. It’s refreshing and bright from first to vibrant last sip. (496 cases, 12.5% alc.) Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold). Le Chateau $30 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley The Claar-Whitelatch family took over this brand several years ago, and their White Bluffs Vineyard fruit combined with the winemaking talents of Joe Hudon have produced an elegant and pure expression of Washington Cab. Its floral and subtle nature provides hints of black cherry and cassis with pipe tobacco and roasted bell pepper with firm tannins and a finish of cocoa and savory spices. (113 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold).

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Maryhill Winery $40 2014 Proprietor’s Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley A vineyard in the northeastern Oregon town of Echo, Eagle Ranch, was selected by winemaker Richard Batchelor to serve as the core of this Cab that spent 20 months in 50% new French oak. Beautiful varietal correctness with cassis lifts from the glass. Bing cherry, blackberry, and earthiness entwine on the palate, where firm tannins achieve a precise balance with an energetic finish. (478 cases, 14.6% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold) Maryhill Winery $38 2014 Proprietor’s Reserve Syrah, Columbia Valley Les Collines Vineyard, a breadbasket for the Walla Walla Valley, leads this fresh and pure expression of Syrah. Forest berries, cured meats and plum entwine with subtle oak nuances and blackberry syrup accents. Lively acids pull it all together. (289 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: Washington State Wine Competition (gold). Maryhill Winery $24 2014 Zinfandel, Columbia Valley A decade ago, the Leutholds helped put Zinfandel on the map in the Northwest with a strong showing at a California judging, and the Columbia Gorge producer continues to excel with three Platinums in the past two years. Baked cherry, dusty prune and meaty notes are matched on the palate with blackberry, a chocolaty mouthfeel and the enjoyable Zin burn. (2,471 cases, 14.5% alc.) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Award: Washington State Wine Competition (gold). Northwest Cellars $48 2013 Petit Verdot, Red Mountain Scooteney Flats is the Bordeaux-focused parcel of the decade-old Vinagium project on Red Mountain, and in the hands of Robert Smasne these grapes often turn gold. Intensely aromatic with floral and spicy notes, it is deep and penetrating with blackberry, licorice, black tea and tapenade flavors. (70 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Best Buy! Pacific Oasis Winery $12 2013 Riesling, Columbia Valley This Washington-themed brand within the Bronco Wine Co. portfolio scores highly with this classic example of Riesling. Tropical notes of guava, pineapple and orange blossom include honeycomb, sweet grapefruit and a faint whiff of petrol. The last impression is stimulating and overall wellbalanced. (5,000 cases, 10.8% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $31 2015 Timnah Block Estate Côt et Merlau, Umpqua Valley He’s not known for his work with Bordeaux reds, and Stephen Reustle produces few blended wines, so this 50-50 offering of Malbec and Merlot is a tasty exception. Uber-expressive, it is layered and skillfully balanced as wild berries, black cherries, savory spice and subtle mint flow elegantly. On top

of that, the restrained alcohol makes it clearly cellar worthy. (300 cases, 13.1% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Awards (gold). Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $29 2015 Estate Winemaker’s Reserve Grüner Veltliner, Umpqua Valley Stephen Reustle viewed the 2009 vintage as his first bottling worthy of a reserve Grüner. It earned a Platinum in 2010, and his latest is on par with that effort. Lime and stone fruit on the nose lead to a luscious entry. Citrus blossom, white peach, creamy pear, lime zest, minerality, and fresh crushed herbs enliven the palate. (200 cases, 13.1% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (best of class). Robert Ramsay Cellars $35 2014 Counoise, Red Mountain Casey Cobble, who swam varsity for the University of Washington, is now a Northwest Wine Academy alum producing some of the Northwest’s best performances with Rhône varieties. Here it is with Counoise from Rhône-centric Red Heaven Vineyard. Wildly aromatic and packed with flavor, its flavors include red raspberries, cherries and pomegranate seeds with savory spices amid an elegant finish. (136 cases, 16.1% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). Best Buy! Ryan Patrick Wines $12 2016 Olsen Brothers Vineyard Riesling, Yakima Valley The Olsen family has been selling its award-

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2017 NORTHWEST

WINERY OF THE YEAR

A t the 2017 San Francisco Chronicle’s Wine Competition, our nation’s largest and most competitive judging, Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards had the Best Showing of any Pacific NW Winery... earning 1 “Best of Class” and 5 Double Gold Medals. Andy Perdue in his Seattle Times article “The Top 50 NW Wines” said “Perhaps the Northwest’s best winemaker is Stephen Reustle in Roseburg, Ore. He proves that one bottle at a time.” And at this years WinePress Northwest Magazine’s Platinum Judging, the Pacific Northwest’s toughest wine competition, Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards received 4 Double Platinum and 5 Platinum Medals, earning a top 10 place for all-time winningest wineries in the competition’s 18-year history.

VISIT THE UMPQUA VALLEY & DISCOVER WHY REUSTLE-PRAYER ROCK VINEYARDS WAS NAMED 2017 NORTHWEST WINERY OF THE YEAR.


Award History ~ Best of Class ~

~ Double Platinum ~

~ Platinum ~

~ Double Gold ~

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2017

Northwest Winery of the Year NORTHWEST


TASTING RESULTS

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winning grapes since closing their winery in Prosser, Wash., which is where Jeremy Santo, the winemaker for this Leavenworth brand, grew up. His dry Riesling is invigorating and minerally as nectarine, white peach and lime peel lead to a racy finish. (2,000 cases, 12% alc.) Award: Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival (best of class). Seven Falls Cellars $23 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope Selections from four vineyards across the Wahluke Slope - including renowned StoneTree - factor into Doug Gore’s Cab for this young and growing Ste. Michelle brand. Earthy aromas lead to a bright entry of wild blackberries, dark chocolate, cedar and Black Splendor plums with beautiful oak integration. It’s firm in structure with nicely integrated tannins. (53,000 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). Skaha Vineyard $19 2016 Unoaked Chardonnay, Okanagan Valley The folks at Kraze Legs Winery south of Penticton, BC, named this label after the aboriginal term for “horse,” and there’s no oak to get in the way. Nice florals of orchard fruit and citrus include a whiff of baking spice. Inside, there’s a real purity of fruit as racy lemon, Rangpur lime and Granny Smith apple flavors create a mouthwatering finish. (156 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: All-Canadian Wine Awards (gold).

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Smasne Cellars $46 2012 Upland Vineyard Cabernet Franc, Snipes Mountain The Newhouse family provides Yakima Valley native Robert Smasne with the grapes that allow him to make a deep and complex Cab Franc. Lush aromas and flavors of boysenberry, Bing cherry and blueberry include crushed violet that leads to a dried fig finish. (47 cases, 13.9% alc.) Awards: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (best of class, double gold).

judging (best of class, Outstanding!)

Smasne Cellars $50 2012 Konner Ray Red Wine, Columbia Valley Named after his young son, Robert Smasne takes this Meritage-style red down a path that’s heavy on Malbec. The dense dark fruit on the nose, leading with concentrated blackberry and black plum, is mirrored on the palate with earthiness, licorice and hints of grilled meat. It’s complex and powerful through the enduring finish. (106 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold).

Succession Wines $39 2015 Cabernet Franc, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley The Lindsays lost their home to the 2014 Carlton Complex Fire, the largest wildfire in Washington state history, and this Cab Franc from Famiglia Vineyards near the Gorge Amphitheater marks the beginning of the Platinum chapter in their success story along the north shore of Lake Chelan. Black cherry, sweet herbs and cola notes lead to a wonderful finish of fine-grained, black cherry skins tannins. (97 cases, 14.7% alc.). Award: Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival (gold).

Smasne Cellars $50 2012 Three Vineyard Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley The Prosser-based winemaker first made a Malbec in 1998, and these two barrels of the Bordeaux grape are selections from Roskamp, Scooteney and Verhey vineyards. Rich blueberry, plum, vanilla, spice and candied violets emerge from the pretty nose. Layers of flavors of cherry and currant swirl into hints of blueberry pie on finish. (55 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Wine Press Northwest Malbec

Smasne Cellars $38 2012 Three Vineyard Reserve Petit Verdot, Columbia Valley Fragrant violets on the nose open to a palate full of Bing cherries, dark chocolate, a whiff of smoke, black plums and olive. It’s deep and powerful, yet velvety smooth with a solid backbone of tannins. (97 cases, 13.9% alc.) Awards: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (best of class, double gold).

Thurston Wolfe $16 2015 Touriga Naçional Port, Yakima Valley One of the Northwest’s most experienced producers of Port-style wines is back, using a traditional Portuguese grape grown at Lonesome Springs Ranch and aged in neutral oak for 18 months. Brooding and spicy on the nose, it’s intensely flavorful with candied cherries, blackberries, raisin pie, orange peel and espresso to fill the mouth. The

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long finish comes with a kick of nutmeg. (130 cases, 18% alc.) Awards: Great Northwest Invitational Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Seven Bridges Winery $32 2013 Kolibri Vineyard Reserve Malbec, Columbia Valley Portland winemaker Bob Switzer pulls from Kolibri Vineyard, a 7-acre planting just south of historic Cold Creek Vineyard in the northwestern foothills of Washington’s Rattlesnake Mountain for this four barrels of Malbec. It’s juicy and fullyflavored yet light on its feet as black fruits, sarsaparilla, flint and cinnamon coat the palate with immaculate balance. (100 cases, 13.2% alc.) Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold). Spangler Vineyards $35 2013 Petite Sirah, Southern Oregon Patrick Spangler used this bold Rhône grape to earn his 10th career Platinum. Aromas and flavors of roasted coffee bean, boysenberry and blueberry come packed within well-integrated Earl Grey tea tannins that offer a long finish with black licorice. (217 cases, 14.6% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Awards (gold). Spangler Vineyards $27 2013 Zinfandel, Southern Oregon After making Zinfandel using Sonoma fruit, this Umpqua Valley vintner stayed close to home for this Platinum winner. Dried strawberry, blackberry and smoked pink peppercorns combine for a tangy Zin that’s far from cloying. (165 cases, 14.6% alc.) W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Award: WPNW Italian Red Judging (Outstanding!). Spoiled Dog Winery $30 2014 Penn Cove Red, Red Mountain Whidbey Island grower/winemaker Karen Krug has a passion for estate Pinot Noir, but her talents extend to Bordeaux-inspired blends with this Right Bank tribute using Cab from Klipsun Vineyard. Cherry taffy, plump blueberry and tobacco notes lead to integrated tannins and a mellow finish of chocolate, black currant and clove. (120 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Viscon Cellars $26 2013 Heart Box Red Merlot, Horse Heaven Hills West Seattle winemaker Ben Viscon goes across the state into Alder Ridge Vineyard for a smooth example of Washington Merlot. Aromas of candied cherries and hints of earth remain consistent on the palate. Baker’s cocoa powder, dusty berries and plum preserves and savory notes join in, and a smooth texture carries into an herb-accented finish. (150 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Westport Winery $27 NV Dawn Patrol, Yakima Valley The Roberts family has scaled back its lineup of wines involving non-grape wines, yet continues to excel with them. And the process continues to rely on stellar fruit, starting in this case with Riesling from venerable Red Willow Vineyard. There’s a big boost of raspberry (5%), which provides more than

just color. It is dense and pure with ample acidity to balance the residual sugar (11%). Serve it with vanilla ice cream. (182 cases, 12.3% alc.) Award: Washington State Wine Competition (best of class, gold). Whidbey Island Winery $18 2015 Siegerrebe, Puget Sound Greg Osenbach continues to earn praise for the work on his 7-acre estate with Siegerrebe – a German cross of Gewürztraminer and Madeleine Angevine. It opens with fresh summer fruits and a subtle honey note on the nose. Grapefruit, spiced apricot preserves, sweet melon and honey-drizzled peaches unravel onto the graceful palate. (420 cases, 11% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold.) Zerba Cellars $36 2013 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley The Zerbas’ Cockburn and Winesap vineyards combine to offer lots of Merlot that contribute to some of the Walla Walla Valley’s most decorated wines, and this marks the fourth time in 12 years for their Merlot to wear a Platinum medal. Its complex nose of rose petals, strawberries, sweet cedar and Graber olive leads to huckleberry, blueberry and nutmeg, setting up a finish of pleasure. (188 cases, 14.7% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (best of class, gold). Zerba Cellars $24 2013 Wild Z Red Wine, Walla Walla Valley Four vineyards in the southeast corner of the Walla W i n t e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Walla Valley, all in the state of Oregon, contribute to one of the region’s most popular proprietary red wines. There’s a foundation of Merlot, but supporting players include Syrah and Petite Sirah. Chocolate-covered black cherry, violets and mint lead to boysenberry jam and raspberry tea amid a supple finish with blueberry. (799 cases, 14.6% alc.) Awards: 2017 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (best of class, gold). Abacela $29 2014 Estate Barrel Select Garnacha, Umpqua Valley Earl Jones first earned a Platinum for his Grenache with the 2004 vintage, and the 5 acres he’s established continue to show versatility. There’s purple fruit and sweet chocolate on the nose, followed by chocolate-covered cherries, red currants and pomegranate. The structure is smooth, yet juicy. (428 cases, 14.2% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (double gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Judgment of Geyserville IV (gold). Basalt Cellars $30 2014 Merlot, Columbia Valley This Clarkston, Wash., winery blends Merlot from Dwelley Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley and Willard Farms in the Yakima Valley that spent 18 months in 60% new French oak. It’s hedonistic as caramel and coffee notes lead into mountain huckleberry and blackberry, backed by Earl Grey tea and slate. (148 cases, 14.9% alc.) Awards: TriCities Wine Festival (gold), Savor Northwest Wine Awards (double gold).

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Brandborg Vineyard & Winery $32 2014 Love Puppets Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley A mutual appreciation for wine drew Terry and Sue Brandborg together, and an early memento of their courtship became a refrigerator magnet described as “Love Puppets on a Ferris Wheel.” They produce prized Pinot Noir bottlings named for each half, including the dry-farmed Love Puppets. It shows a bit more ripeness than most Willamette Valley examples, featuring red currant and Craisins with cola and basil notes. Supple balance with fruit and oak showcases the rich and creamy structure that’s finished by orange oil and Montmorency cherry. (232 cases, 13.7% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (double gold). Brian Carter Cellars $25 2016 Abracadabra Rosé, Columbia Valley Master blender Brian Carter takes a winning, albeit unusual, approach by weaving five varieties that do well on their own as rosé - Sangiovese, Grenache, Syrah, Malbec, Cinsault. He used it to top a field of 122 entries for our spring rosé tasting, and it continues to sing using a crisp approach with cranberry, Rainier cherry, melon and orange slices. (555 cases, 13.7% alc.) Award: Wine Press Northwest rosé judging (Best of class, Outstanding!) Brian Carter Cellars $60 2012 Solesce Red Wine, Columbia Valley It is fitting that Brian Carter’s Left Bank-inspired blend, which he names for a Latin reference to “sun and essence” features Cabernet Sauvignon

from Klipsun Vineyard on Red Mountain. Berries and spice on the nose turn juicy with cassis and dark plum flavors as tobacco walks among nicely understated oak and subtle tannins. (292 cases, 14.3% alc.) Awards: Jefferson Cup Invitational (gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (double gold). Bunnell Family Cellar $42 2012 ALX Red Wine, Columbia Valley Ron Bunnell named for this Syrah-based blend for his son and essentially guaranteed this wine to be a Platinum qualifier when he brought in the fruit from rising star Discovery Vineyard in the Horse Heaven Hills. Gorgeous fruitiness akin to Marionberry and plums includes earthiness and smoked meat alongside the nice integration of oak, which adds another dimension. It finishes long and strong with cranberry acidity and allspice. (218 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). Bunnell Family Cellar $36 2011 Lia Red Wine, Columbia Valley Syrah and Mourvèdre from Milbrandt-owned Clifton Hill and Northridge vineyards includes a great injection of acid-laced Cinsault and Grenache off Boushey Vineyard, making for a remarkably complex Rhône blend. Alluring hints of bacon include complex notes of clove and white pepper, joined by dusty cherries, dark chocolate and a finish of Red Vines licorice. (132 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (double gold).

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platinum TASTING RESULTS

Bunnell Family Cellar $24 2015 Viognier, Yakima Valley If the wine is made using grapes native to the Rhône Valley, then it would seem as if it’s only a matter of time before Ron Bunnell will earn at least one gold medal with it. Another recent example is this 2015 Viognier from Art den Hoed Vineyard. Classic notes of orange Creamsicle, pear and peach blossoms are allowed to emerge thanks to the neutral oak program. There’s pleasing weight to the midpalate and touch of caramel to the finish. (163 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold). Chateau Ste. Michelle $18 2013 Indian Wells Merlot, Columbia Valley Merlot made in Washington tends to be tannic, but Bob Bertheau and his team rely on fruit from the sultry Wahluke Slope and blend in some jammy Syrah (15%) to create a delectable drink. Rich and ripe berries are showcased from first whiff. Fig compote, blueberry cobbler, sweet wood spice, boysenberry jam and black raspberries converge, coating the mouth deliciously. (50,000 cases, 14.5% alc.) Awards: Rodeo Uncorked! Houston International Wine Competition (best of class, double gold). Coyote Canyon Winery $18 2016 Coyote Canyon Vineyard Life is a Rosé of Barbera, Horse Heaven Hills A qualifier for the second straight year, Justin Michaud’s rosé breaks through in gorgeous fashion as strawberry pie, Rainier cherry and baking spice notes combine in zingy fashion with a touch of W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Horse Heaven Hills dust. And at 0.7% residual sugar, the sweetness is practically imperceptible. (180 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). DANCIN Vineyards $32 2016 Chassé Chardonnay, Oregon Wine Press Northwest’s 2017 Oregon Winery of the Year continues its association with Durant Vineyards in the Dundee Hills for this Chardonnay. Neutral oak allows for honeysuckle on the nose that’s followed by flavors of maple baked apple, Crenshaw melon, anise and pineapple. Vivacious and balanced, a kick of lemon zest adds lift to the long finish. (80 cases, 13.7% alc.) Award: San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold). 1st R.O.W. Estate Winery $22 2014 Cabernet Merlot, Okanagan Valley Actually, this Right Bank-style blend could be labeled “Merlot” in the U.S. because it constitutes 75 percent of the blend. Layers from Eagle’s Nest Vineyard near Oliver, B.C., gather up olive tapenade, cherry, olallieberry, huckleberry and touches of dill, capped a sprinkling of crushed mint. (232 cases, 14.9% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold) Best Buy! 14 Hands Winery $12 NV Sparkling Rosé, Columbia Valley Keith Kenison headed up the white wine program at Columbia Crest prior to his appointment to 14 Hands so it’s no surprise that he has fun with this

sparkling rosé. Its delicate nose of raspberry and sugared cherry skins spills over into the consumerfriendly bubbles and structure of prickly pear, white peach and lavender. (15,000 cases, 11% alc.) Award: 2017 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 2016 Cabernet Franc Rosé, Golden Mile Bench Intense with its theme of strawberry Starburst and cherry-rhubarb compote, the beautiful acid profile and lovely finish combine for a simply amazing complex rosé. (450 cases, 12.8% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (double gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold). Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $42 2015 Signature Series Cabernet Franc Icewine, Golden Mile Bench It’s amazing but not surprising, in the case of the Gehringer brothers, to see a winery reap top awards in the same judging for work with Cabernet Franc as a dry rosé and also a “sticky.” Complex aromas of raspberry, watermelon, cotton candy and a Graham cracker with strawberry jam are joined by cherry punch flavors, backed by strawberry leaf bitterness for balance. (450 cases, 13.04% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

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Girardet Wine Cellars $48 2013 Bush Vine Tempranillo, Umpqua Valley Second-generation winemaker Marc Girardet transitioned his family’s planting to bush-trained trellising across the dry-farmed Shale Rock Vineyard. This effort with Tempranillo again shows the promise of the Spanish grape in Southern Oregon, making for a consumer-friendly expressions that’s jammy with blackberries and plum backed by mulling spices and racy acidity. (73 cases, 13.7% alc.) Award: San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold). Gravel Bar Winery $18 2014 Chardonnay, Columbia Valley Bronco winemaker Bob Stashak oversees this new Washington wine program that’s mined gold medals in large competitions across the country, and he hit on the perfect autumn-themed Chardonnay. It’s deliciously balanced and redolent with pear butter, caramel apple and butterscotch with lingering lemony acidity. (5,000 cases, 14% alc.) Award: Ultimate Wine Challenge (gold). Hard Row to Hoe Vineyards $49 2014 Primitivo, Wahluke Slope Lake Chelan winemaker Judy Phelps works with tiny Doebler Vineyard, a site in the shadow of Sentinel Gap near Mattawa, Wash., for the fourth vintage her Primitivo program. Persistent fruitiness of raspberry, strawberry and cherry include notes of tobacco, cocoa and bonus finish of spice. (300 cases, 14% alc.) Award: Savor NW Wine Awards (gold). 46

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Henry Earl Estates $48 2013 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Red Mountain The Wine Boss team of Mitch Venohr and Charlie Hoppes in Richland captured the essence of Quintessence Vineyard for owners Dick and Wendy Shaw in Walla Walla. Its charming nose of blackberry and black currant with herbal tones doesn’t disappoint as the dark blue fruit fills up the tannin structure for a firm, yet nicely balanced Red Mountain Cab. (180 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). Kana Winery $20 2013 Champoux Vineyard Old Vines Lemberger, Horse Heaven Hills Attorney-turned-winemaker Tony Lombardo shows how fruity and fun Lemberger can be. Dried cranberry and pomegranate aromas led to flavors that combine huckleberry and blackberry with nice spice and good acidity — making it a perfect wine for Thanksgiving dinner. Sadly, despite this variety being prized by Paul Champoux and beloved by the late Walter Clore, this block has been removed by the Golitizen family of Quilceda Creek fame, who now control Champoux Vineyard. (410 cases, 14% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Best Buy! Kana Winery $15 2011 Workingman’s Red, Columbia Valley This downtown Yakima tenant is producing some of the region’s most delicious wines, regardless of the price, and winemaker Tony Lombardo, a graduate of Walla Walla Community College’s program

is at the heart of it. A Tempranillo-based blend, it’s filled with red licorice, blackberry and cola, framed by tamed tannins and capped by a steady pulse of cherry-rhubarb compote. (520 cases, 14.9% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). La Frenz Winery $22 NV Naramata Bench Tawny Port, Okanagan Valley The Martin family remains among the Northwest’s leaders in fortified wines with this delectable after-dinner offering that’s full-bodied yet sleek. A product of a solera system, It’s multi-layered with dried apricot, butterscotch, sweet greengage plums, brown sugar, a trace of coffee bean and caramelized pecans. Date spice cake adds to the tantalization, and nice acidity keeps it lively. (175 cases, 18.3% alc.) Award: Dan Berger’s International Competition (gold). Malaga Springs Winery $17 2016 Blanc de Noir, Columbia Valley Wenatchee Valley winegrower Al Mathews earned a microbiology degree at Oregon State University, and his work here with estate Pinot Noir seems inspired by the Willamette Valley. This elegant dry rosé is feminine with an uber light hue as a result of pressing right after crushing. Sweet Rainier cherries, watermelon and apple blossom aromas converge on the palate, uplifted and bright, with a citrus tinged finish. (85 cases, 14.1% alc.) Awards: Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival (gold), Bellingham Northwest Wine Festival (gold).

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Market Vineyards $35 2006 Basis Points Red Wine, Columbia Valley Acclaimed winemaker Charlie Hoppes developed this Cab-based blend for this group of businessmen with a background in international financial markets. This first such bottling for the Richland, Wash., brand earned its way into the Platinum via the Seattle Wine Awards’ Diamonds of the Decade judging, and the beautiful opening features a faint whiff of bottle bousquet amid the notes of boysenberry, blackberry tea and basil. The suave structure includes anise, cocoa powder and zippy acidity. (125 cases, 14.6% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Martin-Scott Winery $28 2014 Raven Ridge Red, Columbia Valley Mike and Judi Scott sleep within one of the Columbia River’s most picturesque plantings, but they pulled from two of Washington state’s best sites for this wine – Cabernet Sauvignon (61%) from Shaw Vineyard on Red Mountain and Syrah (39%) off Jones Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope. It comes with a wide spectrum of remarkable notes that hint at lavender, cherry, currant and mint chocolate chip, which flow into a smooth, balanced and earthy finish. (80 cases, 15.8% alc.) Award: Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival (double gold). Maryhill Winery $34 2014 Elephant Mountain Sangiovese, Rattlesnake Hills New Zealand-born winemaker Richard Batchelor is among the growing number of Washington 48

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winemakers who extol the virtues of Joel Hattrup’s site in the northern hills of the Yakima Valley. This is among the handful of Elephant Mountain bottlings to earn a spot in Maryhill’s Vineyard Series program, and the Sangio displays wild cherry cough drops and floral notes to engage the senses. Then cranberry chutney, tea leaves, allspice and moist earth join juicy cherry fruit at the core, which spotlights delicious acidity. (235 cases, 14.3% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold). Maryhill Winery $26 2014 Syrah, Columbia Valley Horse Heaven Hills fruit off Alder Ridge and McKinley Springs vineyards and 20 months in 50% new French oak make this a quaffable, fruity Syrah that’s reminiscent of a boysenberry pie. Violets, sweet pipe tobacco, slatey tannins and pomegranate acidity allow for final notes of smoked pepper and orange oil. (382 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold). Maryhill Winery $44 2014 Proprietor’s Reserve Zinfandel, Columbia Valley Yakima Valley grower Art den Hoed, whose Rattlesnake Hills site ripens Rhône varietes, shows the potential of Zinfandel with his contribution to this reserve program. This edges closer to the California style of strawberry jam, but the raspberry acidity, bramble and earthiness give it balance. Enjoy with Cypress Grove’s Truffle Tremor chèvre. (1,473 cases, 14.8% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold).

Oliver Twist Estate Winery $28 2016 Nostalgia Rockabilly Red, Okanagan Valley Gina Harfman’s passion for winemaking, which includes work with respected consultant Christine Leroux, led her to buy this estate project on the Black Sage Bench near Oliver. She continues to share the credit for her twist-off bottlings with founder Denice Hagerman, and their Merlot-based blend is a luxurious drink of blueberry pie and vanilla joined with dried herbs and violets. (486 cases, 14% alc.) Award: InterVin International Wine Competition (gold). Pleasant Hill Cellars $38 2014 La Grande Affaire, Columbia Valley While Cab from Elephant Mountain Vineyard dominates Larry Lindvig’s blend, the Boeing Wine Club product made room for Tannat off the Wahluke Slope to play a key role. Sweet blackberry pie, violet and humidor aromas funnel into dark cherry and blueberry flavors, where the tannins are nicely integrated and dusty. (119 cases, 15.2% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (best of class, gold). Schmidt Family Vineyards $40 2014 Syrah, Applegate Valley Cal Schmidt grew up in the wheat fields of Kansas, but he became an entrepreneur on the West Coast and Syrah was among the first varieties he used to establish his Southern Oregon vineyard in 2001. Roasted meat, blackberry, olallieberry, savory spice and nice acidity make for a layered and energetic mouth feel. (238 cases, 13.2% alc.) Award: Oregon W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


platinum TASTING RESULTS

Wine Experience (gold). Spoiled Dog Winery $36 2013 Estate Reserve Pinot Noir, Puget Sound Retired attorney Karen Krug and her husband grow six clones of Pinot Noir and the German variety Pinot Noir Précoce, and all seven come together in this bright wine that bursts with delicious red fruit. Envision dusty raspberry, Craisins and Jolly Rancher cherry flavors with white pepper and suave tannins that finish with a bite of Montmorency cherry. (116 cases, 13.2% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Succession Wines $39 2015 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley Lake Chelan winemaker Brock Lindsay pulls from nearby Antoine Creek Vineyard for this beautiful expression of Cab. Bing cherries, violets and moist earth all are in harmony for this fruity and bold drink that brings tingly acidity. (100 cases, 15.1% alc.) Award: Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival (gold). Territorial Vineyards & Wine Co. $46 2014 Capital T Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Eugene winemaker Ray Walsh, formerly at King Estate, works with estate plantings at Equinox and Bellpine vineyards that include the rare Jackson clone of Pinot Noir, reportedly first established by the University of California near the Sierra Foothills town of Jackson during the 1880s. It plays a part in this superb drink that’s filled with Rainier

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cherry, strawberry taffy and cranberry tea with white pepper and caramel. (75 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (double gold). Thurston Wolfe $25 2015 Zephyr Ridge Vineyard Primitivo, Horse Heaven Hills Wade Wolfe helped blaze the trail in Washington for this Italian clone of Zinfandel both in terms of planting it and bottling it. There’s a persistent sense of jamminess among the dark, rich and concentrated notes of plum and raisin, plum and baking spices. (50 cases, 15.5% alc.) Award: Northwest Wine Summit (gold). Tsillan Cellars $36 2014 Estate Winemaker Select Malbec, Lake Chelan Dr. Bob Jankelson’s site selection on the south shore of Lake Chelan serves as a master stroke, and the lesser-known red Bordeaux variety Malbec is proving to be a remarkable fit. Dusty black cherry and plump blueberry notes include pepper, savory porcini mushroom and juicy finish. (190 cases, 15.2% alc.) Awards: New World International Wine Competition (best of class, double gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold). Vino la Monarcha $22 2016 Pinot Noir Rosé, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Victor Palencia produces more than a million cases of wine on the Wahluke Slope for clients of the Jones and Shaw families, but he carves out time for

his own two brands. Two Gun Vineyard near Quincy, Wash., owned by the Joneses, is the birthplace of this exquisite rosé. Honeydew melon, cantaloupe and rose petal aromas lead to creamy flavors of raspberry and cherry that carry a dab of sweetness behind the ear then a broad lick of acidity. (500 cases, 13% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold). Walla Walla Vintners $35 2014 Merlot, Walla Walla Valley William vonMetzger’s classwork for Myles Anderson at College Cellars made him a natural choice to take over the cellar at Walla Walla Vintners. Validation includes Wine Press Northwest’s 2016 award as Pacific Northwest Winery of the Year. Their Merlot is an easy drinker that’s lighter on its feet than most, offering Van cherry and blueberry-pomegranate cocktail notes among secondary hints of juniper, clove and cocoa. (761 cases, 14.2% alc.) Awards: Jefferson Cup (gold), San Francisco International Wine Competition (gold.) Zerba Cellars $36 2014 Cabernet Franc, Walla Walla Valley Wenatchee Valley native Doug Nierman, a University of California-Davis grad, solidifies Zerba Cellars’ tradition with Cabernet Franc as this the fourth Platinum winner since the 2008 vintage. It’s peppery with notes of cigar box and cured meat alongside lush fruit of blackberry pie. Beautiful blueberry acidity still leaves room for an elegant finish with a touch of graphite. (185 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine

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Competition (gold.) Amelia Wynn Winery $32 2013 The Dwelley Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Bainbridge Island winemaker Paul Bianchi founded his brand a decade ago, and he’s focused his Cab program on this site in the Blue Mountain foothills. Classic notes of cherry, vanilla, eucalyptus and baking spices are wrapped within smooth tannins and carried along by Chukar Cherries and caramel. (96 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). Best Buy! Indian Creek Winery $15 2016 White Iris Sweet Gewürztraminer, Snake River Valley Mike McClure continues the consumer-minded tradition of his father-in-law - founding winemaker Bill Stowe - with this expressive and pleasing Gewürz from Skyline Vineyard, the Idaho’s wine industry’s largest planting. Pear chutney, rosewater, jasmine tea, spice and underlying honey persist through the finish that uses grapefruit pith to play off the 3% residual sugar. (250 cases, 12% alc.) Award: Idaho Wine Competition (gold). Irvine & Roberts Vineyards $35 2014 Pinot Noir, Rogue Valley A trio of Oregon’s top winemakers - Robert Brittan in the Willamette Valley along with Herb Quady and Brian Gruber in the Rogue Valley - collaborate on this Burgundian-inspired Pinot Noir for this rising brand near Ashland. Estate fruit grown at

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2,100 feet elevation elicits thoughts of smoked black cherry, forest floor and mushroom that are finished in black currant and brown sugar. (900 cases, 14.5% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). Kiona Vineyards and Winery $35 2016 Estate Chenin Blanc Ice Wine, Red Mountain Scott Williams and Tristan Butterfield may devote more time, energy and talent to Chenin Blanc in its various styles than anyone else, and particularly stunning is their work with desserts. Fanciful notes of apple and cinnamon come with the juice and pith of Meyer lemon acidity, marking an achievement to balance the 19% residual sugar. The Williamses suggest serving it with ham or salmon that’s been glazed with honey. (1,063 cases, 9.2% alc.) Awards: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold), Washington Wine Awards (gold). Maryhill Winery $40 2014 Clifton Hill Cabernet Sauvignon, Wahluke Slope The Milbrandt family’s Clifton Hill Vineyard ranks among the warmest sites in Washington, and its work with Cab is exemplary. Its richly fruited aroma includes moist earth, leading to a round and viscous structure that creates thoughts of berry cobbler, joined by cocoa. A note of anise adds lift to the finish. (324 cases, 15.3% alc.) Awards: Washington Wine Awards (best of class, gold). Moraine Estate Winery $22 2016 Riesling, Okanagan Valley New Zealand-trained Jacqueline “Jacq” Kemp set

her sights on British Columbia’s Naramata Bench to work with Burgundy varieties. Along her way, she’s also shown a flair for Riesling, producing one of Canada’s most decorated releases in 2017. Pineapple, honeysuckle and tart apple come with classic undertones of petrol, slate and sea salt brininess that sip nearly all of the 1.3% residual sugar from the finish. (400 cases, 12.5% alc.) Award: AllCanadian Wine Championships (gold) British Columbia Best of Varietal (gold), British Columbia Wine Awards (gold). Page Cellars $20 2016 Sentimental Blonde, Columbia Valley Jim Page changed up his tradition of bottling this blend with white Bordeaux grapes, and he could have labeled this as “Conner Lee Vineyard Viognier,” however his use of Riesling (10%) moves this beyond gold and into the realm of yummy. Mango, guava and orange Creamsicle aromas are mirrored on the palate, where it is joined by papaya and orange peel. (112 cases, 14% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Puffin Wines $20 2016 Rosé of Pinot Noir, Oregon Oregon Coast wine merchant Steven Sinkler works with winemaker Sean Driggers of Pudding River Wine Cellars in Salem on his rosé. They take a dry approach and it’s filled with apricot, orange and rose petals while offering juicy acidity. (100 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold).

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platinum TASTING RESULTS

Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $42 2013 Estate Winemakers Reserve Syrah, Umpqua Valley Stephen Reustle earned his first Platinum in 2009 with a Syrah. This signals the 10th Platinum he’s merited for work with the Rhône grape. Sweet plum and barrel influences of cinnamon and allspice lead to a palate where the fluid hits all the notes. Dark purple fruit is joined by blackberry tea flavors with flecks of minerality and a pinch of pepper. The finish is long and silky. (475 cases, 13.6% alc.) Award: American Fine Wine Invitational (gold). Schmidt Family Vineyards $28 2014 Reserve Chardonnay, Applegate Valley Jesse Brons, a product of Umpqua Community College’s winemaking program, and his mother, Rene Brons, team up with patriarch/founding winemaker Cal Schmidt on the 6,000-case program, which made room for these three barrels of reserve Chardonnay. Fascinating aromas of Bazooka bubble gum and toasty oak lead to a skillful balance of creaminess and apple that’s capped by toast and butter. (71 cases, 14.6% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (double gold). Spangler Vineyards $29 2015 Khayam’s Block Estate Dolcetto, Umpqua Valley Pat Spangler grafted a portion of his vineyard over to Dolcetto in 2013, and the results have been remarkable. Named for a beloved cheetah who W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

lived out her days at the nearby wildlife park, there’s smokey red cherry, raspberry and green tea notes with first tannins and a persistent peppery finish. (215 cases, 15.1% alc.) Awards: Indy International Wine Competition (best of class, double gold). Succession Wines $24 2016 Evolution White Wine, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley The Lindsay family blends Sèmillon (64%) and Roussanne (12%) from Cave B’s Famiglia Vineyard with award-winning Viognier from Antoine Creek Vineyard to create rich aromas of fresh pineapple and melon and facial powder and orange pith. Juiciness awaits as flavors of kiwi fruit and Bosc pear lead to lemongrass and lime. (186 cases, 13.8% alc.) Gold: Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival Wine Competition (gold). Talent Cellars $24 2014 Nuf Sed Red, Oregon Matt Newbry learned winemaking at College Cellars and Tamarack Cellars in Walla Walla prior to moving his family to a heritage farm near Talent, Ore., and he’s definitely a talent on the rise. Super-charged by fruit from Windrow and Monette’s vineyards on the Oregon side of the Walla Walla Valley, his entry-level Cab-based blend is packed with blackberry jam, blueberry and clove, backed by coffee and vanilla within an approachable structure. (182 cases, 14.2% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold).

Valcan Cellars $28 2014 Syrah, Rogue Valley Argentine native Juan Pablo Valot, who heads up the winemaking for Silvan Ridge and serves on the Oregon Wine Board, recently created his own brand. This beauty from Belmont Vineyard captures the elegant side of Syrah. Blackberry pie, cured meats, olive tapenade and underlying oak meld deliciously. Soft tannins make it oh-so-easy to quaff. (64 cases, 14.3% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Competition (gold). Abacela $21 2016 Estate Albariño, Umpqua Valley This award marks five Platinums just for Albariño for the Jones family. Myriad aromas and complex flavors of apricot, grapefruit, lemongrass and lemon zest are nearly pushed aside by the spoonful of gooseberry pie in the finish. (1,444 cases, 13.2% alc.) Awards: Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold), Oregon Wine Awards (gold). Abacela $18 2016 Estate Muscat, Umpqua Valley Initially, this storied Southern Oregon producer developed this program merely to provide an off-dry white escape for tasting room visitors. Now, their blend of Early Muscat and historic Muscat Blanc à Petits Grains continues to garner praise beyond Lookingglass Road. It’s wildly aromatic and the range of orange blossom, clementine, guava, honeysuckle and exotic spices intertwine across the palate. Despite its 3% residual sugar, it stays focused, finishing with a touch of gingerbread. (218 cases, 11.4% alc.) Award: Pacific Rim International W i n t e r 2 017 • W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t

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Wine Competition (gold). Adamant Cellars $25 2016 Gateshead Vineyard Albariño, Walla Walla Valley Devin Stinger relied on Albariño from Spain to slake his summer thirst in Colorado before moving to Walla Walla. Those bottles helped him gameplan for this scintillating work with young Gateshead Vineyard. Aromas of honeyed Granny Smith apple, jasmine and gooseberry turn brisk as Asian pear and lemon take over as flavors. (110 cases, 13.6% alc.) Awards: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (best white), Washington State Wine Competition (gold), Washington Wine Awards (gold). Alexandria Nicole Cellars $25 2014 a squared Cabernet Sauvignon, Yakima Valley At last year’s Platinum, the ANC team used the 2013 vintage of its “a squared” — their entry-level Cab — to essentially win the Platinum’s best of class. The 2014 version has been judged to be just as approachable upon release. Lovely black fruit tones akin to black cherry, black currant and blueberry include a rewarding mix of barbecue spices. Its structure is balanced and smooth with a finish that doesn’t let go. (635 cases, 14.4% alc.) Awards: Washington Wine Awards (double gold). Brian Carter Cellars $80 2007 LeCoursier Red Wine, Columbia Valley It was two years in barrel and two more in the 52

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bottle before Brian Carter first released this Meritage-style blend that leads with Merlot from Solstice (planted in 1980) and StoneTree vineyards. The blue and black fruit aroma leads to a spiceenhanced entry. Flavors of dusty dark plum, sweet tobacco, blueberry compote and sweet and savory notes are carried by a silky texture to a long, oakkissed finish. (1,070 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Brian Carter Cellars $80 2007 Trentenaire Red Wine, Columbia Valley A decade beyond its birth, Brian Carter’s blend of Petit Verdot continues to mature majestically. Brooding aromas open to a powerhouse of flavors — blackberry, plum, black cherry — and focused graphite elements then meld with a touch of herbs. It’s muscular and rich from first whiff to final drop. (273 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (double gold). Cave B Estate Winery $33 2014 Cave B Vineyards Tempranillo, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley College Cellars graduate Freddy Arredondo took over the winemaking program at Cave B for his family in 2007, and his background as a trained chef shows up in this approach with Tempranillo. Fresh strawberry and cherry notes come on through the glossy palate, which is nicely nuanced, clean and lean. (225 cases, 14.1% alc.) Awards: Wenatchee Wine and Food Festival (gold), Seattle Wine Awards (gold).

Cerebella $25 2014 Syrah, Walla Walla Valley Zimmel Unruh Cellars marks the second career for Robb Zimmel, a former Army medic who served nearly a decade in Afghanistan and Iraq. The recent product of Washington State University’s winemaking program worked with Firethorn Vineyard for his Syrah that’s made entirely with whole-berry, in-barrel fermentation. The long list of aromas include savory herbs, purple fruit and smoked meat. It’s a sultry and captivating Syrah as refined tannins allow for full enjoyment of the chalk and chocolate, blackberry and plum flavors. (75 cases, 15.5% alc.) Award: Seattle Wine Awards (gold). Best Buy! Chateau Ste. Michelle $15 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Columbia Valley A look at some of the components, fruit from some of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates top sites Canoe Ridge Estate, Cold Creek and Indian Wells, helps explain why this has become one of Washington state’s biggest ambassador for Cabernet Sauvignon. There’s lilac, dark cherry and cedar on nose, followed by warm vanilla spice, black cherry and blackberry flavors. Lush and layered, a sense of earthiness plays out in the lingering finish of caramel. (507,500 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: Rodeo Uncorked! Houston International Wine Competition (gold). Church & State Wines 2016 Pinot Gris, Vancouver Island

$20

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Kana Winery is located in the historical Larson Building in downtown Yakima, WA Kana Winery has been serving the community for fourteen years, specializing in Rhone-style Red blends, Tempranillo and Lemberger with numerous awards for each wine. Wine Press Northwest Best of the Best Awards Platinum 2011 Workingman’s Red 2012 Dark Star 2013 Champoux Vineyard Old Vines Lemberger Double Gold 2012 Tempranillo

10 S 2nd St, Yakima

509-453-6611 Kanawinery.com

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

Open Year Round Music every Friday and Saturday evenings 7pm-10pm.

Daily hours: Mon-Thurs 12pm-6:30, Fri-Sat 12pm-10pm, Sun 12pm-5pm.

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John Pullen operates Church & State tasting rooms and manages vineyards on opposite sides of British Columbia, and Barbara Hall’s winemaking on Vancouver Island reflects the realized potential of their Brentwood Bay estate planting. Hints of banana cream pie and pear transition to crisp lemon-lime acidity for a showy finish that melds minerality with Bosc pear. (600 cases, 13.4% alc.) Awards: Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold), InterVin International Wine Competition (gold). Best Buy! Convergence Zone Cellars $15 2014 Bacchus Vineyard Dewpoint Riesling, Columbia Valley The Columbia River flows past Sagemoor Vineyard, one of the Northwest’s oldest commercial plantings, and Scott Greenberg casts the spotlight on it for a cool and refreshing expression of Riesling. Crisp green apple with classic notes of petrol and minerality join a lime-splashed nectarine for spot-on acidity and a vivacious finish. (180 cases, 12.7% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold). Dumas Station Wines $38 2013 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley Fourth-generation Walla Walla farmer Jay DeWitt works with Minnick Hills and Birch Creek vineyards to create a wildly aromatic Cab that features black plum, black currant, spearmint and anise. There’s definition, precision and depth as the skillful use of oak lays out a memorable finale. (450 cases, 14.3% alc.) Award: Cascadia Interna-

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tional Wine Competition (gold). Eleganté Cellars $36 2016 Tempranillo, Walla Walla Valley Retired chemistry teacher Doug Simmons continues to burnish his reputation with age-worthy reds, particularly Sangiovese, yet here he is with an amazing young Tempranillo off Les Collines Vineyard. There are hints of earth and red berry and black fruit up front with spicy, fruit-driven flavor that build on the palate with good balance. (103 cases, 12.5% alc.) Award: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold). Eternal Wines $42 2016 Perspective Grenache Blanc, Columbia Valley Somm-turned-winemaker Brad Binko has quickly made headlines and received gold medals since graduating from College Cellars in Walla Walla. He’s also helping to advance the cause of Grenache Blanc in Washington via this bottling from Painted Hills Vineyard. There’s remarkable complexity with green apple and honeysuckle as the slice of warm spice cake on the midpalate receives a final kick of refreshing acidity. (50 cases, 13.5% alc.) Awards: Washington State Wine Competition (gold), Washington Wine Awards (double gold). 14 Hands Winery $30 2013 The Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon, Horse Heaven Hills Ste. Michelle Wine Estates created 14 Hands in 2005 as a restaurant-only brand, but the winemaking talents of Keith Kenison have helped it

become the state’s second-largest winery. His use of 74% new barrels and fruit from the Horse Heaven Hills elicits aromas of blackberry pie, baking spice, tobacco and smoke, followed by flavors of black cherry and blackberry. Chocolaty tannins and blueberry acidity add up to a silky mouth feel and juicy finish. (630 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: TriCities Wine Festival (gold). Best Buy! Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery $15 2016 Gewürztraminer-Schönburger, Golden Mile Bench Each year, Walter Gehringer makes it almost impossible for any judging panel to deny this wine, choosing to combine the already-aromatic Gewürztraminer with this German grape that’s parentage is tied to Black Muscat, Chasselas and Pinot Noir. Lychee, rosewater and spiced caramel apple notes are made complex with mouth-coating cantaloupe and a lasting tightness from lemon zest. (653 cases, 11.7% alc.) Awards: Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold), Indy International Wine Competition (gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold). Best Buy! Jones of Washington $10 2015 Riesling, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley It’s remarkable, but not unprecedented, for a bottling to repeat as a Platinum winner - which this has. Aromas of river rocks make way for

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peaches and cream, pear, dried pineapple and sweet nectarine. Brisk acidity allows it to stay true from start to its beautifully lifted finish. (1,787 cases, 12.7% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Washington Wine Awards (gold). La Frenz Winery $22 2016 Rattlesnake Vineyard Naramata Bench Sèmillon, Okanagan Valley Beautiful, crisp white wines from British Columbia tend to rise to the top at the Platinum, and this Naramata Bench winery ranks among the elite. Many of the best Sémillons focus on lemony notes, and that’s the theme here from start to finish. Six months on the lees provides the caramel creaminess that yields to a finish of lemon meringue pie filling. (523 cases, 12.6% alc.) Award: WineAlign National Awards of Canada (gold). Maryhill Winery $16 2016 Tudor Hills Vineyard Pinot Gris, Columbia Valley The Leutholds continue to deepen their relationship with the Tudor family, and their collaboration produced Washington’s top-scoring Pinot Gris at the Platinum. Lively, bright and perfumy aromas lead to crisp flavors of pear and apple skin, a subtle hint of crushed herbs and kick of lemon zest on the lingering finish. (4,846 cases, 13% alc.) Awards: Washington State Wine Competition (best white). Maryhill Winery $20 2013 Proprietor’s Reserve Vintage Port,

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Columbia Valley One of the prime bargains from Northwest producers of fortified wine is this aged vintage Portstyle from Maryhill. The blend of traditional Portuguese varieties Souzão, Tempranillo, Tinta Cão and Touriga Naçional grown from the estate Gunkel Vineyard at the eastern edge of the Columbia Gorge matures in oak for 33 months. The results are wide-ranging and fascinating with boysenberry and ripe plums, creamy caramel, spiced raisin scones, cacao nibs and roasted almonds. It’s deliciously rich and balanced. (257 cases, 18.8% alc.) Awards: Washington Wine Awards (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold). Maryhill Winery $16 2016 Rosé of Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Inspired by Barnard Griffin’s success with rosé using Sangiovese, Maryhill increased production last year by about 50 percent, and the quality of fruit they get from the Tudor family in the Yakima Valley continues to rise. Hints of earth, layers of red and black cherries, cranberry-apple herbal tea and a beam of minerality enliven the palate. Crisp acidity balances the 1.4% residual sugar beautifully. (5,607 cases, 13.7% alc.) Awards: Washington State Wine Competition (best of show, double gold), Northwest Wine Summit (best of class). Moon Curser Vineyards $37 2014 Carménère, Okanagan Valley British Columbia winemaker Chris Tolley can see into the U.S. from his mountainside winery/tasting room just east of Osoyoos, and this vintage marked the 10th for the Carménère he plucks from his

Home and Stubbs vineyards. There’s an uncanny opulence to his version of this rare Bordeaux grape as blackberry pie and exotic spices pick up leather, cedar and telltale hints of bell pepper along the way to the long, round and smooth finish. (244 cases, 14.6% alc.) Award: Los Angeles International Wine Competition (gold). Newhouse Family Vineyards $40 2015 Scion Red Wine, Snipes Mountain The Newhouse family names this GSM blend of estate grapes as an homage to their winegrowing lineage, and there’s no one better in Washington than Ron Bunnell when it comes to work Rhôneinspired wines. Black raspberry, licorice and charcuterie notes include a hint of Nutella to provide depth along with a stylish thread of minerality. Integrated tannins complete the delicious package. (177 cases, 14.5% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold), Pacific Rim International Wine Competition (gold). Northwest Cellars $16 2015 Chardonnay, Yakima Valley Robert Delf and Robert Smasne work with Airfield Estates fruit for this Chardonnay. It’s steely, vibrant and fresh as honeysuckle, Granny Smith apple and juicy Bartlett pear notes carry through the lively finish. (560 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold). Palencia Winery $20 2016 Albariño, Ancient Lakes of Columbia Valley Drawn by the potential to accent this Spanish

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white grape’s affinity to express minerality, Victor Palencia works with viticulturist Ryan Flanagan to source the caliche-laden soil of Evergreen Vineyard and Spanish Castle. Those dusty notes float in the background of this fruit-filled and complex drink of banana, white peach and lemon spice cake, capped by jasmine tea. This marks consecutive vintages that Palencia has achieved Platinum status with Albariño. (500 cases, 12.5% alc.) Awards: Seattle Wine Awards (best of class), Sip Northwest (best of class). Palencia Winery $36 2014 Grenache, Yakima Valley Prosser High grad Victor Palencia spent much his youth working at what is now Canyon Vineyard Ranch, the basecamp for his own Grenache program. This bottling features a sachet d’épices dropped into an elegant and vibrant mix of cassis, pomegranate and chocolate cream. In 2018, this wine will be produced near the Columbia River at Kennewick’s Columbia Gardens project – the new home of Palencia Wine Co. (140 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (best of show). Puffin Wines $21 2016 Pinot Gris, Oregon Steven and Maryann Sinkler took over The Wine Shack in Cannon Beach and developed this whimsical yet serious negoçiant-style series of wines to offer beachcombing customers. For their Pinot Gris, they chose Eugene winemaker Ray Walsh, whose résumé includes crafting Pinot Gris at King Estate. The style is one of fresh-picked stone fruit

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and starfruit, and it’s well-balanced with a lovely texture that includes apricot pit for complexity. (150 cases, 13.6% alc.) Awards: Savor NW Wine Awards (best of class, double gold). Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $24 2014 Estate Rojo Dulce Dessert Wine, Umpqua Valley Here’s a Tempranillo-based Port-style offering that should appeal to Port lovers. It’s broad and firm with ripe cherry, blackberry liqueur, roasted nuts, fig jam, cacao nibs, oak spice and a hint of earth richly filling the mouth. There’s lovely viscosity on the midpalate as zingy acidity complements the lavish fruit. (150 cases, 19% alc.) Award: Oregon Wine Awards (gold). Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards $42 2014 Estate Winemaker’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Umpqua Valley Longtime climate researcher Greg Jones helped the Reustles decide what they should plant near Cal Henry Road, and the versatility of the site north of Roseburg continues to show. There’s more acreage of Pinot Noir planted here than any other grape, and success has followed. It’s fruity yet Burgundian as dusty cherry and raspberry aromas are joined by earthy tones. Inside, ripe strawberry flavors and pencil shavings make for a silky finish. (338 cases, 13.8% alc.) Award: 2017 San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (double gold). Spindrift Cellars $22 2015 Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley New Jersey native Matt Compton, who came out

intending to manage research vineyards for a few years on behalf of Oregon State University, recently celebrated his 20th harvest in the Willamette Valley. The relationships he’s built with farmers have given him access to vines nearly 40 years old, and he pulled from seven sites for this fleshy and concentrated style of Pinot Noir. Cherry pie, baking spices, jasmine tea and raspberry preserves hold firm and with inspiration. This ranks as one of the Northwest’s best values, particularly for Pinot Noir from a small producer. (1,467 cases, 14% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (double gold). Spindrift Cellars $32 2015 Reserve Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley Too many wineries play fast and loose with the term “reserve,” so it’s refreshing to see the Comptons label this appropriately. Their selection of clones Wadenswil, Pommard and 115 spent 14 months in 20% new French oak, which maintains the profile of fresh, high-toned fruit. Cherry, pomegranate and cranberry are interlaced with herbs and graphite, making for a dazzling finish. (148 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold). Talent Cellars $44 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Oregon Matt Newbry, a Washington State University product, talked his wife into setting aside her political career in order to launch a boutique winery near his Southern Oregon roots. His debut vintage relies heavily on Windrow Vineyard, recognized as the oldest commercial vineyard in

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platinum TASTING RESULTS the Walla Walla Valley. Its dark fruit profile comes deep and layered with cassis, sweet tobacco, plum preserves and a thread of cocoa. Firmly structured tannins pave the way for a forever finish. (177 cases, 14.6% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold). Tightrope Winery $35 2015 Pinot Noir, Okanagan Valley This marks the fourth Platinum in five years for Lyndsay O’Rourke and grape-growing husband Graham, but it’s the first time with Pinot Noir. Naramata Bench fruit and just 10 months in French oak leaves it elegant and feminine with racy acidity as raspberry, SweeTart cherry candy and pomegranate fruit join exotic spices and cola accents. Its purity adorns it with an ethereal quality. (425 cases, 13.7% alc.) Award: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold). Tsillan Cellars $34 2014 Estate Malbec, Lake Chelan Lake Chelan Valley native Shane Collins produced a pair of Platinums from the 2014 vintage in the Malbec class for this showpiece Tuscan-themed property. Dark purple notes of black currant and blueberry pick up hints of chai spices, supported by supple tannins and balanced acidity. (350 cases, 15.1% alc.) Awards: Washington Wine Awards (gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold).

Walla Walla Vintners $45 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon, Walla Walla Valley It’s now three years in a row that William vonMetzger has pulled in a Platinum for Cab. He tapped into six vineyards throughout the Walla Walla Valley, including Pepper Bridge, Minnick Hills and the estate planted by founders Myles Anderson and Gordy Venneri. A basket full of wild berries on the nose is mirrored on the palate. Lean, pure and juicy with cassis, fresh tobacco, plum and a touch of oak, it’s capped with mint. (854 cases, 14.4% alc.) Award: Sunset International Wine Competition (gold). Westport Winery Garden Resort $28 NV Rapture of the Deep Carbonated Cranberry Wine, Washington Local cranberry bogs provide all the fruit for this annual celebration of the Furford Cranberry Museum in nearby Grayland. Its winsome wardrobe, honest presentation of fruit, necessary midpalate sweetness (12%) and natural lingering tartness make it a great accompaniment for holiday meals. And a substantial portion of each sale is donated to Harbors Home Health & Hospice. (206 cases, 9.7% alc.) Awards: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (best of class), Tri-Cities Wine Festival (double gold), Capital Food & Wine Festival (gold).

RECOGNIZED AS SMALL WINERY OF THE YEAR TWICE IN 2017 Dan Berger’s International Wine Competition & National Wine Awards of Canada Consistently awarded Okanagan Valley winery is proud to announce its recent achievement with six new awards at the Platinum Judging.

Our wines are a true reflection of our unique terroir. Glacial soils, dry warm summers and a pristine environment combined with our holistic approach to viticulture create ideal conditions for ultra premium wines.

Please contact us at

marketing@lafrenzwinery.com for information about imports and distribution in the U.S.

www.lafrenzwinery.com T: +1 250 492 6690 W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M

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HOW THE PLATINUM IS CONDUCTED Wine Press Northwest created the Platinum Judging in 2000 as a way to determine some of the best wines of the Pacific Northwest. To accomplish this, we chart more than 40 professionally judged wine competitions worldwide to track the gold medals won by fruit from Washington, Oregon, Idaho and British Columbia. In 2017, Northwest wineries were awarded more than 2,300 gold medals at professional judgings. These wines are categorized and judged blind during three days by three panels of wine experts, who award wines with Double Platinum, Platinum, Double Gold and Best Buy. A wine is awarded a medal based on how a majority of the judges voted. If all the judges on a panel deem the wine a Platinum, that wine is awarded a rare, unanimous Double Platinum. Based on each judge’s score, we are able to determine which wine or wines end up at the top, the best of the best. The 18th annual Platinum Judging was staged Oct. 25-27 at the Clover Island Inn in Kennewick, Wash. Z’IVO Wines $45 2014 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir, Eola-Amity Hills Dr. John Zelko proved to be a visionary in 1995 when he bought 40 acres in the Eola-Amity Hills. A year later, he established his vineyard, which now is surrounded by some famous neighbors. His work here with all five clones that he’s planted — 114, 115, 667, 777, and Pommard — is a classic. The red-fruited nose with rose petal, leather,

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cherry pipe tobacco, pencil shavings funnels into nicely meshed flavors of cherry and earthiness with slate and a late rush of red currant. (344 cases, 14.4% alc.) Awards: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold) Oregon Wine Competition (gold). Amelia Wynn Winery 2016 Crawford Vineyard Albariño, Yakima Valley

$20

The Crawford family’s site near Prosser, Wash., contributed fruit to at least six entries in this year’s Platinum Judging, and they shine with this Iberian Peninsula grape. Granny Smith apple, dried apricot and kiwi fruit are amplified within the radiant structure that’s capped by a scrape of lemon zest. (96 cases, 13.2% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold). Chester-Kidder $60 2014 Red Wine, Columbia Valley While Long Shadows Vintners in Walla Walla showcases a constellation of some of the world’s brightest stars, Chester-Kidder represents the bond between mastermind Allen Shoup and his director of winemaking - Gilles Nicault. Cabernet Sauvignon (66%) steers the blend, but it is Syrah (28%) from Weinbau Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope that builds the midpalate. Blackberry jam, dried blueberry, sage and cocoa slide among the finegrained espresso tannins that allow the rich fruit to stretch out. (1,815 cases, 15.3% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold). Eternal Wines $40 2014 Patience Roussanne, Walla Walla Valley A few of Brad Binko’s small projects took root prior to his graduation from the winemaking program at Walla Walla Community College, including this barrel-aged Roussanne from the

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Wine Press Northwest 2017 Best of the Best Platinum Award Winners 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Nuf Sed Red Wine Enthusiast Magazine 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon - 93 Points, Editors Choice 2014 Nuf Sed Red - 90 Points Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition Gold Medal Winners 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon 2014 Nuf Sed Red Talent Cellars • 541-767-8509 www.talentcellars.com Shop and check for upcoming wine tasting events at www.talentcellars.com

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platinum TASTING RESULTS Zerba family’s Cockburn Ranch. Melon and fig provide the theme amid the structure of pleasing body weight and finish of caramel. (80 cases, 14.5% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold), Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold). Eye of the Needle $35 NV The Point Reserve Red Wine, Columbia Valley Woodinville vintner Bob Bullock blends all six Bordeaux varieties from sources that include Stillwater Creek and historic Otis while picking from the 2013 and 2014 vintages. Cabernet Franc forms the base. Black fruit, pencil shavings, barrel spice and roasted bell pepper make for nicely structured tannins and a cellar-worthy offering. (57 cases, 15.2% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold). Best Buy! 14 Hands Winery $12 2014 Stampede Red Blend, Columbia Valley The artwork of Colorado equine artist Cynthia Sampson allows these wines to stand out on store shelves across the country, and this new Syrahbased bargain blend from the Prosser, Wash., winery includes contributions of Mourvèdre, Viognier and Merlot. Plum skin, coffee, black licorice and crushed red pepper aromas carry into an abundance of black currant and blackberry flavors, backed by cocoa, cassis and milk chocolate. (100,000 cases, 13.5% alc.) Award: San Francisco Chronicle Wine Competition (gold).

Kitzke Cellars $26 2013 Sangiovese, Columbia Valley Decorated winemaker Charlie Hoppes recently handed over the duties to Seth Kitzke, who has a delicious template courtesy of Candy Mountain Vineyard, Candy Ridge Vineyard and his family’s plantings that surround the tasting room. It’s reminiscent of a fine Chianti with dried flowers and earthy notes on the nose. In the mouth, ripe cherries, cranberry, cherry tomatoes and spice entwine with lively acidity. (73 cases, 14.1% alc.) Award: Wine Press Northwest Italian reds (Outstanding!) Laissez Faire $16 2015 Sauvignon Blanc Chenin Blanc, Snake River Valley Ste. Michelle-trained Melanie Krause and husband Joe Schnerr of Cinder Wines fame created this second label for their Boise-based customers to enjoy as everyday wines. To no one’s surprise, they’ve turned out something rather special. Their Loire Valley-inspired blend features gooseberry, honeydew melon and freshly chopped herbs for a real quaffer. (780 cases, 13.2% alc.) Awards: Sunset International Wine Competition (gold), Cascadia International Wine Competition (double gold). Maryhill Winery $24 2014 Malbec, Columbia Valley The largest production of Malbec among Platinum qualifiers also graded out among the best, and it started with fruit from near the winery at Gunkel Vineyard and Tudor Hills in the Yakima Valley. There is a marvelous array of dark blue fruit notes

2017 Wine Press Northwest Best of the Best Platinum

2015 Riesling

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2015 Sauvignon Blanc 2014 Chardonnay

Gold 2013 Syrah 2015 Pinot Gris Our family owned, estate grown, award winning wines are available at your favorite restaurant, local wine retailer or at one of our tasting rooms. Pybus Public Market Tasting Room 7 N. Worthen St. Wenatchee, WA 98801 (509) 888-0809 Quincy Tasting Room 2101 F Street SW Quincy, WA 98848 (509) 787-8108

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KING OF THE PL ATINUM With another six Platinums this year, Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery south of Oliver, British Columbia, easily retains the title of “King of the Platinum.” Walter and Gordon Gehringer have won at least one Platinum medal every year except 2001 and 2006. Here are the wineries that have won the most Platinums during the competition’s first 18 years: Gehringer Brothers Estate Winery: 69 Maryhill Winery: 53 Chateau Ste. Michelle: 35 Reustle-Prayer Rock Vineyards: 28 Zerba Cellars: 27 Jackson-Triggs Okanagan Estate: 25 Barnard Griffin: 23 Thurston Wolfe: 22 La Frenz Winery: 21 Wild Goose Vineyards: 19 Kiona Vineyards Winery: 19 Smasne Cellars: 17 Walla Walla Vintners: 17 Westport Winery: 17 Abacela: 15 Jones of Washington: 14 Tsillan Cellars: 14 Alexandria Nicole Cellars: 13 Brian Carter Cellars: 13 Coyote Canyon Winery: 13 Dusted Valley Vintners: 13 Watermill Winery: 13 Domaine Ste. Michelle: 12 Saviah Cellars: 12 Bunnell Family Cellar: 11 Milbrandt Vineyards: 11 Clearwater Canyon Cellars: 10 L’Ecole No. 41: 10 Northwest Cellars: 10 Reininger/Helix by Reininger: 10 Spangler Vineyards: 10

that lead into black pepper, muscovado sugar, mocha and earthiness. Lingering acidity and firm tannins should lend this to some fondue. (1,245 cases, 14.1% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (double gold), Northwest Wine Summit (gold). Schmidt Family Vineyards $24 2015 Albariño, Applegate Valley Three generations of the Schmidt family are involved in various aspects of this Grants Pass, Ore., winery, which also features a restaurant. Their estate Albariño carries aromas and flavors of apricot, Asian pear and lemon zest with rock dust. Done bone-dry, enjoy with ceviche influenced by rosemary, the herb depicted on the bottle as part of their label series. (493 cases, 13.6% alc.) Awards: Oregon Wine Experience (gold). Schmidt Family Vineyards $36 2014 Tempranillo, Applegate Valley It’s natural for this Iberian red variety to thrive in the same neighborhood as Albariño, and the Schmidts’ use of 40% new French oak leaves plenty of room for the rich and intense theme of cherry vanilla, crème de cassis and raspberry as tar and spice notes lead to a powerful finish. (198, cases, 15% alc.) Award: Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold). Tsillan Cellars $36 2013 Estate Reserve Syrah, Lake Chelan A product of Walla Walla Community College’s vaunted winemaking school, Shane Collins notches his third career Platinum with Syrah for Tsillan Cellars. The Washington State University grad conjures up thoughts of berry pie, baking spice and leather with cranberry juiciness in the finish. (511 cases, 15.2% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold). Vanessa Vineyard $40 2013 Meritage Red Wine, Similkameen Valley The dean of British Columbia winemakers, Howard Soon, collaborates with one of his disciples, Karen Gillis, on these wines from this fascinating 75-acre planting. Cabernet Sauvignon (44%,) Cabernet Franc (32%) and Merlot account for

Double Platinum Winner Sea Glass Grill · Daily 8am–7pm · USA Today #2 Winery Restaurant I South Arbor · Aberdeen · 360-648-2224 · www.WestportWinery.com Top 20 Most Admired in North America · Best NW Destination Winery 60

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platinum TASTING RESULTS toothsome layers of black plum, blueberry and melted chocolate, backed by cassis, fresh tobacco and violets. The spine of natural acidity inherent in this emerging region bodes well for cellaring. (625 cases, 14% alc.) Award: Great Northwest Invitational Wine Competition (gold). Zerba Cellars $45 2013 Cockburn Vineyard Riesling Ice Wine, Walla Walla Valley The breadbasket for the Zerba program is their 180-acre Cockburn Vineyard in Oregon near Milton-Freewater, and Riesling is a miniscule part of a planting devoted to big red varieties. Conditions allowed them to produce a traditional ice wine in successive years, and this is akin to a dish of honeyed creme brule with spearmint, menthol, baking spice and plenty of acidity to deal with the lofty (27%) residual sugar. (67 cases, 11.3% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (best of class). Zerba Cellars $30 2014 Winesap Vineyard Estate Red Wine, The Rocks District of Milton-Freewater Just south of Stateline Road is the Zerba-owned Winesap Vineyard, and this blend of Syrah (50%), Merlot (25%) and Cabernet Sauvignon represents the only three varieties planted in these cobblestones. There’s a juicy explosion of blackberry, blueberry and plum along with toast, spice and potpourri. The balance is supreme with a touch of

graphite and bramble in the background. (90 cases, 14.3% alc.) Award: Walla Walla Valley Wine Competition (gold). Best Buy! Domaine Ste. Michelle $13 NV Brut, Columbia Valley Ste. Michelle refreshed the brand to give it a more classy appearance on the store shelf, and Paula Eakin furthers the program’s stellar tradition. Done in the classic style with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, it’s clean with hints of dusty Asian pear, lime, green apple and yellow grapefruit. The bubbles and the 1.2% residual sugar are wonderfully balanced. Bring on the popcorn with truffle salt, clam dip or sushi. (135,000 cases, 11.5% alc.) Awards: Washington State Wine Competition (best of class, double gold). Best Buy! Latah Creek Wine Cellars $10 NV Huckleberry d’Latah, Columbia Valley The Conway family has been making wine in Spokane, Wash., for three decades, and this Ancient Lakes-grown Riesling influenced by huckleberry is their delicious flagship wine. It comes across as an off-dry berry rosé that’s nicely crafted. Quite clean on the palate, it’s a consistent performer year after year. (7,930 cases, 10.5% alc.) Awards: Cascadia International Wine Competition (gold), Savor Northwest Wine Awards (gold).

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Pleasant Hill Cellars $32 2014 Ultimo Red Wine, Columbia Valley Carnation, Wash., winemaker Larry Lindvig doubles up on 2017 Platinums inspired by Left BankBordeaux blends rooted in Elephant Mountain Vineyard. In this case, however, it is Petit Verdot that joins the Cabernet Sauvignon (43%) and Cabernet Franc (39%). Think of Cherries Jubilee, cassis and toffee with touches of rose petal and cigar box. (118 cases, 15.2% alc.) Award: Washington Wine Awards (gold).

Columbia Valley This year’s honor roll for Robert Smasne ends with a crowd-pleasing blend that’s built upon the shoulders of Cabernet Sauvignon (48%) and Petit Verdot (21%) with a significant injection of Syrah (18%). He nearly casts a trance with the barrel work that brings chocolate and caramel, joined by cherries and currants. That Syrah not only helps with the plush midpalate, but it also provides the juicy elderberry finish. (347 cases, 13.9% alc.) Award: Tri-Cities Wine Festival (gold).

Smasne Cellars 2012 County Line Red Wine,

For a complete list of results visit winepressnw.com.

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Doug Toone

Brian Toone

Denver Toone


NORTHWEST WINE EVENTS January

10-11 Wine on the Rock: Wine &

lan, Wash. Lake Chelan Wine Valley stages two wine walks, including a VIP trail. Go to lakechelanwinterfest.com.

Chocolate, Bainbridge Island, Wash. Members of the Winery Alliance of Bainbridge Island pair their wines with local chocolates as part of Valentine’s Day celebrations. Go to bainbridgewineries.com.

25-28 Oregon Truffle Festival, Eu-

12 Walla Walla Wine @ McCaw Hall,

12-21 Lake Chelan Winterfest, Che-

gene. Chefs and foragers visit the south Willamette Valley, starting with the annual Joriad North American Truffle Dog Championship. Go to oregontrufflefestival.com.

23 Wenatchee Winter Wine Gala,

Wenatchee, Wash. This 15th annual fundraiser for the Wenatchee Valley Museum & Cultural Center features regional wineries and chefs. Go to wenatcheevalleymuseum.org.

26-27 First Taste Oregon, Salem.

More than two dozen wineries are set to pour at the state fairgrounds, joined by live music, cider, spirits, beer and food vendors. Go to FirstTasteOregon.com.

February 2-3 Portland Seafood & Wine Fes-

tival. This 13th annual fundraiser to fight multiple sclerosis brings more than 50 wineries to the Oregon Convention Center. Go to pdxseafoodandwinefestival.com.

2-3 Enumclaw Chocolate & Wine

Festival. More than 20 wineries return to the Enumclaw Expo Center for this 10th annual event. Go to cityofenumclaw.net.

3 St. Joseph’s Art & Wine, Kenne-

wick, Wash. The 22nd annual fundraiser for St. Joseph’s Parish and School features regional wines, cigars, restaurants, artists and musicians. Go to sjske.org/art-wine.html.

6-8 Washington Winegrowers As-

sociation convention, Kennewick. Growers and winemakers throughout the Northwest gather for the 21st annual meeting/trade show. Go to wawinegrowers.org.

10-11 Bubbles Fest at Anne Amie,

Carlton, Ore. Anne Amie Vineyards and 24 other sparkling wine producers have grown this fourth annual event to span two days. Go to anneamie.com/events/bubble-fest/

10-11 and 17-19 Red Wine & Chocolate Tour, Olympic Peninsula, Wash. Member wineries on the peninsula and islands pour it on over two weekends and Presidents Day. Go to olympicpeninsulawineries.org.

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Seattle. More than 45 Walla Walla Valley wineries pour for two hours at Seattle Center. Go to wallawallawine.com.

13-15 Idaho wine industry annual

meeting, Boise. Enology, viticulture and business return to 8th and Main, the state’s tallest building. Go to idahowines.org.

16 Secret Crush, Yakima, Wash. The fourth annual Secret Crush marks the beginning of Wine Yakima Valley's Red Wine and Chocolate Weekend with an evening featuring some of the valley’s highest-rated wines served at Yakima Country Club. Go to go to wineyakimavalley.org.

16 Taste Spokane, Airway Heights,

Wash. Northern Quest Resort & Casino plays host to this 12th annual festival that’s this Wishing Star Foundation chapter’s largest fundraiser. Go to tastespokane.com.

16-18 Oregon Truffle Festival, Yam-

hill. Chefs and foragers move to the north Willamette Valley and pay tribute to the late James Beard, an Oregon native. Go to oregontrufflefestival.com.

17-19 Red Wine and Chocolate,

22-25 Newport Seafood & Wine

Festival, Newport, Ore. The 41st annual event features more than 50 wineries. Go to seafoodandwine.com.

25 Oregon Chardonnay Celebra-

tion, Newberg. Formerly known as the Oregon Chardonnay Symposium, many of the state’s premier Chardonnay producers stage a public tasting at the Allison Inn & Spa. Go to oregonchardonnaycelebration.org.

26 Walla Walla Wine @ Leftbank

Annex, Portland. More than 45 Walla Walla Valley wineries pour for two hours near Moda Center in support of the Classic Wines Auction. Go to wallawallawine.com.

March

3 Greatest of the Grape, Canyon-

ville, Ore. The Pacific Northwest’s oldest wine event celebrates its 48th anniversary and pairs Southern Oregon wineries with restaurants at Seven Feathers Casino Resort. Go to umpquavalleywineries.org.

3 Classic Wines Auction, Portland.

This 34th annual fundraiser for Portlandarea children sells out months in advance. It features famous winemakers and chefs on both sides of the Columbia River. Go to classicwinesauction.com.

8-11 Savor Cannon Beach, Ore. Four days of wine and culinary education include a Saturday walk showcasing award-winning Northwest wines. Go to savorcannonbeach.com.

Yakima Valley, Wash. More than 50 wineries in the heart of the Northwest’s oldest grape-growing region pair their wines with chocolate. Go to wineyakimavalley.org.

9-11 Sip! McMinnville Wine & Food

17-19 Valentine’s Wine and Choco-

late Weekend, Columbia Gorge. Wineries along both sides of the Columbia River offer special tasting room events. Go to columbiagorgewine.com.

The Washington wine industry’s signature celebration spans four days of public tasting and education, concluding with two days of grand tastings at CenturyLink Field Event Center. Go to tastewashington.org.

20-21 Oregon Wine Industry Sym-

24 Capital Food and Wine Festival,

posium, Portland. Enology, viticulture and business returns to the Oregon Convention Center for the sixth straight year. Go to symposium.oregonwine.org.

22-24 The Seattle Wine and Food

Experience. Seattle Center’s McCaw Hall plays host to the 10th annual Northwest weekend celebration of wines from Washington, Oregon and Idaho with more than 20 chefs and live music. Go to seattlewineandfoodexperience.com.

Classic, McMinnville, Ore. This 25-year-old event lands at the Evergreen Space Museum. Go to sipclassic.org.

22-25 Taste Washington, Seattle.

Lacey, Wash. The St. Martin’s University Alumni Association stages its 28th annual fundraiser at Marcus Pavilion, which features Northwest winemakers alongside regional chefs and other craft beverage producers. Go to capitalfoodandwinefestival.com.

W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


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MATCH MAKER S

Village Wines in Woodinville, Wash., “where friends gather”

A WINE VILLAGE COMES TOGETHER AT WOODINVILLE’S VILLAGE WINES // STORY BY ERIC DEGERMAN, PHOTOGRAPHY BY RICHARD DUVAL

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OODINVILLE, Wash. The slogan for Village Wines in Woodinville is “where friends gather,” but considering the culture created by Lisa Bowen, it could just as well be “Where everybody knows your name.” “My customers are amazing,” Bowen 70

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said. “I hug everybody. It’s really like a local ‘Cheers.’ I see some of these people a couple of times a week. I never wanted a bottle shop where people didn’t come and hang out.” Bowen manages the restaurant/wine bar/wine shop she owns with her husband, Tim. On this blustery day near the

Hollywood Schoolhouse, neither Norm nor Cliff were planted on one of the barstools in the center of Village Wines, but Lisa greets everyone as they walk in and knows many by name. “It truly has becomes a place where everyone knows each other, and everybody knows my kids,” she said. “The WINEPRESSNW.COM


wine community here is amazing, and it’s pretty tight-knit. Everybody supports each other.” The Bowens are enjoying a nice run in Woodinville, and operating a wine shop isn’t overly intimidating to them. “I was a real estate agent, and when you have three kids in diapers, you don’t really go out, so Tim and I would have friends come over and get together with them in the kitchen and cook,” she said. “We grew Village Wines out of that concept. We enjoyed doing that, and what we want is for other people to be comfortable and enjoy what we’re doing, too.” But a year after Village Wines 1.0 opened, the Great Recession of 2007-09 arrived and brought gas to $4 per gallon. There have been obstacles and challenges, but the turning point for the Bowens was moving their bottle shop from their low-visibility basement space off 148th Avenue. “Woodinville has changed a lot since then,” she said. “We didn’t have all these tasting rooms. When I opened, there was Brian Carter Cellars and the big guys Columbia, the Chateau, Januik. We did a lot more tastings because there weren’t that many tasting rooms yet.” There are now more than 100 wineries and tasting rooms in Woodinville. She shares a parking lot with Long Shadows Vintners, Chandler Reach, Goose Ridge, Airfield Estates and Darby. Next year, Milbrandt Vineyards and Ryan Patrick are set to move in. “As we watched the corner change, we either had to decide if we were going to get lost among all the tasting rooms or change our business plan and move over here,” she said. Sandra Lee counts herself among the regulars at Village Wines. It’s not unusual to see the executive director of Woodinville Wine Country working on her laptop or meeting over a glass of wine with a member of the winery association. “Lisa goes out of her way to make people comfortable,” Lee said. “And while it’s not a family restaurant per se, it also feels like more than a tasting room.” And having Lee conduct business at Village Wines also serves as an endorsement. “My relationship with her and the other people involved in the wine community has been really great, and it’s uplifting, WINEPRESSNW.COM

Chef Carlos Jimenez shares his recipe for Lisa’s Favorite Flatbread

too,” Bowen said. “Everyone around her is positive, and we’re all supporting each other. You are not going to get rich in this industry, but you can definitely do well enough to be happy.” Terry Wells of Love That Red Winery said, “Lisa has been such a great backer and always supportive of our winery and wines. She’s got a great team that visits the winery and keeps current on our releases. They really want to understand the

nuts and bolts of each of our individual wines and their styles.” On this afternoon, a winery manager swung in to set up a meeting, and a pair of local sommeliers staged an impromptu meeting over a beer. Indeed, Village Wines serves as a delicious getaway for winemakers and tasting room managers, and the arrival of chef Carlos Jimenez a year ago took the menu to another level. “This is the first place where I’ve Winter 2017 • Wine Press Northwest

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MATCH MAKER S

Love That Red Winery $32 2014 Dead Heat Syrah, Columbia Valley — 122 cases, 14.2% alcohol

Prior to Bellevue entrepreneur Terry Wells, Jr., becoming a commercial winemaker in Woodinville and before he launched his lineup of TOWELDRY hair care products, there was a racehorse. Love That Red was a thoroughbred of some renown and owned by Wells’ parents. He ran at stately Santa Anita near Los Angeles and was fast enough to be trained by Triple Crown winner Bob Baffert. Foaled in 1996 with bloodlines that featured Native Dancer, Love That Red made 20 starts for the Wells family, winning nine times - including the 2000 Pat O’Brien Stakes with Baffert - and earning nearly $800,000. “We’re the first and only completely horse racing-themed and branded winery nationally. Our niche,” Wells said. “The winery is both a tribute to the horse and my Dad - my life mentor.” These now are the days of wines and rosés for

Terry and Kriss Wells, but they continue to share ownership in a few race horses. Lately, it’s been quite a ride with Rhône varieties — namely Syrah. This fall, the 2016 Love That Rosé finished runner-up in Wine Press Northwest’s spring judging of rosé. His inaugural rosé was an homage to the Southern Rhône with the blend of Syrah, Cinsault, Grenache and Mourvèdre. It even earned a spot on this year’s Seattle Times’ Top 50 wines of 2017. “We’ve been working with Syrah since 2010 as a winemaker and our first commercial release — our very first wine — was the 2013 Stakes Race Syrah,” Wells said. The 2014 Dead Heat Syrah trots out bright purple fruit tones of Bing cherry and blueberry that include boysenberry, cured meat and some dusty minerality. Down the stretch, it’s big yet soft as black currant and Marionberry flavors are met by fine-grained black tea tannins and black licorice that draws out the finish. Its heritage leads with Milbrandt-owned Clifton Hill on the Wahluke Slope as petite Patina Vineyard in the Walla Walla Valley fills in the gaps. “As you know, we have two wines dedicated to

Lisa Bowen manages the restaurant/wine bar/wine shop she owns with her husband, Tim

worked mostly with wine. Before it was cocktails and beer,” Jimenez said. “This is a good challenge for me. I’m learning about wine, and I ask Lisa for a lot of insight. She does a good job of explaining.” The list of menu options is rather amazing considering the size of the kitchen Jimenez works in, and he’s restricted to convection ovens. “We know our limits,” he said with a smirk. Bowen said, “He’s one of the reasons 72

Wine Press Northwest • W inter 2017

we have so many regulars. His soups are ridiculously good, and he always wants to think outside the box. The seasonal menu changes frequently. He does a lot of different things, and he’s made a lot of little tweaks to things we’ve had on the menu for a long time.” She grew up on the Oregon coast, raised in a family of loggers and dairymen. Her path took her to Las Vegas before landing in Woodinville, where she wanted to

Syrah as I love working with it and Washington state is so great at growing it,” Wells said. “Dead Heat Syrah is our riper, brighter, more fruitforward style Syrah. Warmer climate vineyards comprise the majority of this blend (Clifton Hill) and not much new oak. “The 2014 Stakes Race from the Walla Walla Valley goes with Les Collines and Patina. “We’re always trying to show off the vineyard/ fruit in this wine,” he added. There’s more to Love That Red than Rhône, namely a Bordeaux-only blend called Daily Double Red. Fittingly, it won a double gold medal at the 2017 Cascadia International Wine Competition. “Love That Red is deceased,” Wells said. “He died relatively young (2008) shortly after his racing career was over. He obviously didn’t like standing around the pasture and missed the thrill of racing.” Love That Red Winery, 19501 - 144th Ave NE, Suite D-100, Woodinville WA 98072, lovethatredwinery.com, (425) 4639014.

develop a business that would allow her to be near if their three children needed them. And while the theme of Village Wines is on alcohol and walls are stocked with thoughtfully selected bottles of wine, Lisa wants families to always feel welcome. The configuration of the restaurant and her liquor license allows children to sit almost anywhere. And for her wine club members and guests, Villages Wines is akin to a candy store. “Sure, there are lot of wine clubs around me, but mine is unique because you get wines from different wineries every month,” Bowen said. “For me, that brings my guests back in and we get to know them better.” Village Wines seats about 70, and the outdoor patio comes into play virtually year-round. She’s open every day from 11 a.m. to 9 p.m. There’s live music several nights a week, and the lineup includes singer/guitarist Robbie Christmas, who performed the Star-Spangled Banner at a Seahawks game in 2014. And yet, the bottles that line the walls provide a source of entertainment for wine geeks. “People can come into to have dinner, and if they are a wine club member, they don’t get charged an on-premise price WINEPRESSNW.COM


Carnitas Tacos with Roasted Green Salsa Serves 10-12

Carnitas Tacos Ingredients

24 corn tortillas Shredded slow-braised pork (carnitas recipe below) Roasted green salsa (recipe below) Pico de gallo for garnish Sliced avocado Cilantro, chopped for garnish

Carnitas Ingredients

4 pounds pork shoulder 1/2 cup olive oil 1/2 tablespoon crushed red pepper flakes 8 ounces chipotle in adobo 1/2 tablespoon paprika 1/4 tablespoon ground chipotle 1/2 tablespoon ground cumin 1/4 teaspoon garlic powder 1/2 tablespoon fine salt 1/4 cup orange juice 2 bay leaves 1/4 teaspoon thyme

Directions 1. Mix the oil, spices, herbs and orange juice. 2. Cut the pork shoulder into pieces, place in baking pan or casserole dish, and cover with the mixture. 3. Cover with aluminum foil and cook in the oven at 350 degrees for 2 1/2 hours. 4. When fully cooked, skim off fat and shred the pork.

Roasted Green Salsa Ingredients

8 ounces tomatillos 1/2 clove garlic 1/8 yellow onion diced 1 fresh jalapeño (according to taste - 1/2 to 1 jalapeño recommended) 1/4 teaspoon table salt 2 tablespoons cilantro

Carnitas tacos with roasted green salsa paired with Deadheat Syrah from Love That Red Winery

Directions 1. Roast the tomatillos and jalapeño in the oven until charred 2. Blend all ingredients together.

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Lisa’s Favorite Flatbread with White Barbecue Sauce Serves 2-4

Ingredients

1 sheet of Trader Joe’s lavash White barbecue sauce 2 cups prosciutto, diced 1 cup artichoke, chopped 1 cup sun-dried tomatoes 1 cup olive tapenade 1 cup mozzarella cheese, grated 1 cup Parmesan cheese, grated

White barbecue sauce

2 cups mayonnaise 1/3 cup white vinegar 2 teaspoons black pepper 1 tablespoon lemon juice 2 teaspoons Worcestershire sauce 1 1/2 tablespoons horseradish sauce 3/4 teaspoons salt

Directions 1. Combine and mix ingredients for barbecue sauce. 2. Spread out lavash bread. 3. Apply the barbecue sauce to amount preferred. 4. Mix the two cheeses and sprinkle over the sauce. 5. Apply the tapenade, tomatoes, artichokes and prosciutto. 6. Bake at 425 degree for 10-12 minutes until cooked to desired crispiness. It can also be cooked on the barbecue for 3-5 minutes.

LIsa’s Favorite Flatbread with white barbecue sauce paired with 2016 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc from Two Vintners

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MATCH MAKER S corkage fee. They are drinking wines off the shelf at retail,” Bowen said. “They can come in and have lunch or dinner, have a bottle of wine and are drinking it as if they were at home — only someone is waiting on them. “That’s been my favorite part of the business plan,” she continued. “You have to offer diversity in this day and age, so we have an extensive by-the-glass list. I love having a bunch of Washington and Oregon wines on the list rather than having a bunch of stuff that nobody identifies with.” For wine tourists hunting for a quick and convenient snack, options include the plate of smoked salmon ($18) with gluttonous portions seemingly inspired by cruise ship living. There’s also a cured meat platter, stacked to Jenga heights. It can be ordered ahead and prepared for takeout. “The meat and cheese plates might be the signature thing we do because people are out tasting and they just want something quick to eat,” she said. Jimenez’s background shows in his Match Maker pairing of the Tacos Carnitas with the Love That Red Winery 2014 Dead Heat Syrah, which boosted the black cherry profile of the Syrah to amazing proportions. “I struggle with finding a Syrah that people want,” Bowen said. “Syrahs and Merlot are sometimes not on our list, but Terry’s seems to sell really well.” Jimenez, inspired by his mother’s cooking while growing up in the Mexican state of Puebla, applies a personal touch to that dish. “My roasted green salsa verde is something that I take pride in, and my father used to make carnitas, so I’ve adjusted that from Mexico,” he said. For the white wine pairing, there’s another Rhône grape embraced by another Woodinville winemaker. The Two Vintners 2016 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc WINEPRESSNW.COM

showcases the enterprising work of Bowen, whose ingenuity comes across in Lisa’s Favorite Flatbread. “With our convection ovens, we couldn’t get the crust to come out the way we want,” she said. “We tried a lot of different things, but a friend told me she uses the Trader Joe’s lavash bread on the barbecue. It cooks up great. Now, with the lavash bread as the crust, pizzas are one of our most popular items. “It’s a big company secret,” she joked. “Don’t let it out. Everybody wants to know what the secret is with that crust.” As for pairing, the Grenache Blanc’s natural zippy lemony acidity mirrors that of a Willamette Valley Pinot Gris, and it works well with that smoked salmon. It also complements the flatbread’s chopped artichoke, prosciutto and savory tapenade. “It’s a wine that’s not going to put anybody off, and we’ve been pouring that for a solid four years,” she said. “There are people who tell me they don’t like Chardonnay and don’t like Pinot Gris. This is in the middle of them with good balance. I just love it, and we do really well with it. Morgan (Lee) does a pretty fabulous job for Two Vintners and Covington Cellars.” And for those wine tourists whose entourage includes a sudsloving Cliffy or Norm, Bowen will happily offer them a choice of eight regional beers on tap. At the other end of the spectrum, she supports Urban Us Coffee, Co., a Woodinville roaster. “Honestly, everybody — including financial institutions — told me this wouldn’t work because it’s different,” Bowen said with a smile. Village Wines, 14450 Woodinville-Redmond Road, NE #111, Woodinville, WA 98072, myvillagewines.com, (425) 485-3536. ERIC DEGERMAN is co-founder and CEO of Great Northwest Wine. Learn more about wine at www.greatnorthwestwine.com.

Two Vintners $25 2016 Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc, Yakima Valley — 490 cases, 12.3% alcohol Morgan Lee has earned an award-winning reputation for his talents with mainstream varieties such as Merlot and Syrah, but it’s the work on the wild side beyond Zinfandel that feeds the following for Two Vintners in Woodinville. His annual O.G., an “orange” Gewürztraminer made with extended skin contact, is a standout example. Lee is also all in on Grenache Blanc, and there might not be a better source in Washington for the fourth-most planted white grape in France than Dick Boushey in the Yakima Valley. It might seem odd that Lee judges at the Indy International Wine Competition. However, the event, among the most respected on the nation’s judging circuit, is staged on the campus of Purdue University. And Lee is a product of the hospitality management program at the West Lafayette, Ind., school, but it was a wine appreciation class that rocked his world. Then an internship at Columbia Crest led him to Washington state in 2006. Before long, Lee made his way to Woodinville, and this year, he and Covington Cellars co-owner David Lawson celebrated the 10th anniversary of Two Vintners. Grenache Blanc doesn’t fit the Covington program of mainstream reds. It’s a different story for Two Vintners. In 2010, they sought a geeky Spanish-themed white wine and found a thirsty fandom among their Two Funk Nation. There’s name recognition on the bottle as Lee brands it as Boushey Vineyard Grenache Blanc. The affable Boushey might be the state’s most identifiable and in-demand viticulturist, a grower whose reach extends beyond the 160-acre vineyard he planted near Grandview in 1980. Grenache Blanc’s scintillating acidity can be over the top if bottled on its own, so Lee blends in Roussanne – another Rhône Valley white grape – which is grown not far from Boushey at historic Olsen Vineyard near Prosser. The Olsen brothers, feted as the Honorary Growers for the 2014 Auction of Washington Wines, established their vineyard in 1979. Sons have helped grow their plantings beyond 1,100 acres, making it one of the largest family-owned operations in the Yakima Valley. Depending upon the vintage, Lee uses Roussanne for 5 to 25 percent of the bottling. (On the other hand, Roussanne drives the blend in Châteauneuf-du-Pape.) It rounds out the acidity just a touch. Two thirds of Lee’s Grenache Blanc spends six months in predominantly neutral oak barrels and undergoes weekly lees stirring to further build the midpalate. Grenache Blanc is a relative newcomer to the U.S. Tablas Creek in Paso Robles celebrated in 2017 the 25th anniversary of its importation of Grenache Blanc from Beaucastel. And there’s no denying the success that Two Vintners — Wine Press Northwest’s 2013 Washington Winery to Watch - has enjoyed with its Grenache Blanc program. In 2016, they produced nearly 500 cases, almost double that of the 2015 vintage. Two Vintners, 18572 142nd Ave. NE, Woodinville, WA 98072, twovintners.com, (425) 362-9165.

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COLUMN

grapes of roth BY COKE ROTH

Looking in the rearview mirror

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elcome again to another aggravated assault on the English language, where a reader should resist the temptation to try to make any sense of what is written. Where I hope words are assembled with perfect syntax, enviable acuity and bold cleverness, yet you may be left in a vacuum, suffering from narcolepsy (winolepsy?) and no small amount of confusion. As I look over my shoulder at the last half-dozen decades of having wine in my life, I find myself confounded and swept into the black hole of the past. I find myself craving wines from my youth and those made in a classical style. I find that my tastes are history in repeat, or maybe, in the words of Yogi Berra, they are déjà vu all over again. Being the son of a wine distributor offered an early, relaxed and casual introduction to wine; holiday foods were washed down with everything from Kosher to deliciously sweet Concord to the table wines from Old St. Charles Winery — a screw-top “Burgundy” that was the favorite. Back in the 1950s, you could have any kind of commercial Washington red wine you wanted as long as it was made from Concord grapes. And I still LOVE Concord wines, particularly those made in Ohio and New York. The private sector started distributing California and European wines in 1969, much to the economic betterment of the Roth family. Moreover, Washington wines started becoming available in small quantities from varieties other than Concord. I always thought it was divine intervention that this marvelous expansion of wines occurred when I was in college. Timing is everything. During the 1970s and early ’80s, the wine industry fired a heat-seeking missile to the sweet tooth of the young American consumer. California wineries used most every imaginable natural and contrived ingredient to get people to drink what they called wine. Citrusy “Coolers” and grapey-flavored wines dotted the landscape. Collaterally, Europeans were sending us what they drank at the table, some of which were sweet. Fruit-bomb Sangria, Lambrusco with frizzante and Asti Spumante were not 78

W i n e P r e s s N o r t h w e s t • W i n t e r 2 017

created for the American public. Europeans were knocking those back waaaaaay before sweetness became our demand-side economics. And they resisted the temptation of calling a doctored-up beverage “wine” when it was really just “kinda wine.” Getting sleepy yet? Many a Saturday night then was warmed up for this cowboy by an off-dry, blended Riesling from Germany, Blue Nun, and a pair of deliciously balanced rosés from Portugal; Lancers and Mateus. Even an ugly duckling like me could find friends with a bottle of any of those. I’ve always found that buying my friends is much more certain than going to the trouble of developing positive personality traits to encourage someone to actually like me for being me. With few exceptions, during their formative years, the goal for all producers in Washington and Oregon was to make wine as good as those made in Europe. The Californians went mano a mano with successful side-byside wine challenges. The old Chateau St. Michelle back label did a big ME TOO by illustrating that the fine growing areas of Europe lay on the same latitudinal line as Washington State. My friend Kay Simon of Chinook Winery pointed out years ago that the 38th parallel that goes through Napa, California also goes through Northern Afghanistan. So, let’s not go there.

I don’t want opulence, boldness and viscosity in my red wines; I want finesse, delicacy and harmony. In my whites I want minerality, grace and balance, not oak and alcohol. I must be going home because I am not going big.

I recall in the fall of 1976 participating in the first vintage of Hinzerling Winery in Prosser, where my good friend, the recently departed Mike Wallace, was doing back-flips because his grapes came in with precisely the same chemistry (sugar/pH/tartaric acid) as a 1975 vintage of one of Mike’s favorites, Chateau Ducru Beaucaillou. Red winemaking was focused on the same gold standard used by the world: moderate alcohol; lengthening acidity; mature flavors from barrel aging; clean, identifiable fruit showing varietal character; and dry. They were wines that tasted great, and were superb with food — in every sense a non-dominating complement to food. So, now I’m looking in the rearview mirror, and I’m gobsmacked by my current temporal desires. I crave a clean wine made from fruit or berries. I so much enjoy a Margarita Cooler, or a hard apple cider. I hunger for a pale Amontillado Sherry bedazzled by a lemon peel before dinner and an Oloroso Sherry with nuts after. I have a hankerin’ for Auslese Riesling from the Mosel. What the heck is going on! I don’t want opulence, boldness and viscosity in my red wines; I want finesse, delicacy and harmony. In my whites I want minerality, grace and balance, not oak and alcohol. I must be going home because I am not going big. In discussing this dilemma with Kay Simon and Clay Mackey from Chinook over a sample of their Cabernet Franc, they indicated some winemaker told them that the wine “had a hole in it.” We agreed that the hole in her Cab Franc is where the food goes. It is one of my favorite food wines – ever. So, I am now RETRO-MAN, returning to my childhood pleasures and choices. And why? Because they taste good. I drink whites when eating because the humungous woody, high alcohol and bold-berry reds that are now in vogue are delicious and wonderful to drink – when drinking. Don’t be afraid to return to where you started with that delicious stuff you started with, with friends and foods, in moderation, frequently. W I N E P R E S S N W. C O M


COYOTECANYON MARTINEZ&MARTINEZ MCKINLEYSPRINGSWINERY GINKGOFORESTWINERY

GAMACHE VINTNERS

MILBRANDT VINEYARDS

2DOR WINES SMASNE CELLARS

THEBUNNELLFAMILY& WINEO’CLOCK

THURSTONWOLFE

AIRFIELD ESTATES

(509) 786-0004

www.mckinleysprings.com

exciting destination for wine enthusiasts. It's a pedestrian-friendly village where wine lovers can taste wines in 7 individual wineries plus boutique wineries in The Winemakers Loft.

Winter Events!

Thurston Wolfe - Art from Jan Nilsson of West Richland will be on display through April. In November Penn Shelton took the lead as featured artist thru 2018. Craft bracelets from Ed Maske. In April Carol VonStubbe will have new art along with Cathleen Williams’ handcrafted jewelry. Wine o’Clock by the Bunnell Family Cellar & Newhouse Family Vineyards- Proud recipient of 6 Platinum Awards in the 2017

Platinum Invitational Competition – call for our pouring schedule. Custom food and wine pairing menus by appointment, reservations recommended for a la carte wining and dining. Closures: Annual closure Jan 1- Jan 17, reopening the 18th

County Line Tasting Room, home of Smasne Cellars and 2dor Wines- Enjoy handcrafted lunch items daily from 11am-3pm by Executive Chef Kyle Hunter. Dinner by reservation.

DECEMBER

9 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - Limited Library Release 15 -17 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - Case Lot Event 17 - February 7 - McKinley Springs - CLOSED 4-26 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - CLOSED for the Christmas Holiday. 30 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - Happy New Year Whites and Bites Event: $10 per flight of 5 tastings & bites. 31 - January 3 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - CLOSED for the New Years Holiday

JANUARY

1 - 17 - Wine o’Clock by the Bunnell Family Cellar - CLOSED

5 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - First Friday “Flights with Bites” Event. Advance Reservation Only, $25 per ticket, space is limited. 20 - Coyote Canyon - Wine Blending Class with Justin Michaud 10am to 1pm lunch included 26 - Coyote Canyon - Industry only party 4pm to 7pm

FEBRUARY

2 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - First Friday “Love at First Flight”. Advance Reservation Only, $25 per ticket, space is limited. 3 - Coyote Canyon - Wine makers dinner 14 - Bunnell Family Cellar - Special Valentine’s dinner 5-9pm 16 & 17 - Bunnell Family Cellar - Red Wine & Chocolate Chef’s pairing dinner 17 & 18 - Red Wine and Chocolate weekend - at participating wineries. Reservations are appreciated at some wineries. Visit individual winery websites for more information.

MARCH

2 - Ginkgo Forest Winery - First Friday “The Luck of the Irish Bites and Flights”. Advance Reservation Only, $25 per ticket, space is limited. 3 - McKinley Springs - Wine Club Release Fire Pit Party 3 - Coyote Canyon - Wine Club Release 24- McKinley Springs - Sensory Series – Aroma Experience

Please call or check individual web sites for more fall events.



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