IRINA VON HOLDT REPORTS

BRINGING GOOD NEWS in the middle of the relentless march of the pandemic is indeed heartwarming. We tasted (before lockdown) two terric categories, which prompted lots of lip smacking, and big smiles all round. Oh, and positive comments.

Why the government banned wine is hard to understand as it comes with a built-in feel-good factor, just what was needed. But we are not in the alcohol business or the booze business; oh no, we are in the WINE business which is so much classier. Aer much to-ing and fro-ing, the government even realised that we are in the agricultural sector and allowed exports again. So now we’re even ocially special and we—all wine lovers that is—can take a bow. But then we knew it all along.

But back to those two categories that made us smile…

IT’S ALL I N THE BLEND

Named for the Bordeaux region in south-western France, our Bordeauxstyle wines are well-oaked blends of the two Cabernets, Sauvignon and Franc, with Merlot, Malbec and Petit Verdot, and with at least two or more required

WINES TASTED BY THE PANEL

De Wet White Muscadel 2016

ALSO LIKED: De Wet Special Late Harvest 2016, Simonsig Gewürtztraminer 2017, Slanghoek Noble Late Harvest 2016, Slanghoek Private Selection Special Late Harvest 2017

Altydgedacht Muskarade 2016, Asara Carillon 2014, Benguela Cove Noble Late Harvest 2015, DuToitskloof Tunnel Series Sweet White NV, Gabrielskloof Broken Stem 2016, Leopard’s Leap Lookout Semi Sweet 2017, McGregor White Muscadel 2016, Môreson Fudge 2013, Mulderbosch Sauvignon Blanc Noble Late Harvest 2014, Orange River Cellars Nouveau 2018, Overhex Magaliesburg Sweet Wine NV, Stellenrust Kleine Rust Semi Sweet 2018, Villiera Jasmine 2017, Villiera Jasmine 2018, Waterford Heatherleigh NV

in the blend. e idea is to make good any deciencies of a single variety or to ameliorate an unwanted character by blending. e resulting wine becoming more complex than all but the most perfect single varietal wine can be.

“I am so interested to see Cab Franc as the main partner,” Winnie says. “I’ve oen wondered why we don’t use it more.”

Now we’ve mentioned this before, but Cab Franc has become mainstream having been re-evaluated and rated much more Even though they highly than originally. Valued for its attractive aromas, the soer and silkier palate, and its family resemblance to Cabernet Sauvignon, COULD AGE, they are READY NOW. which it seems to enhance, it is being used more and more frequently. As a stand-alone That’s good variety, it has gathered many followers, too. winemaking

Colin is particularly enthusiastic. “A big thumbs up for this category,” he says, “a lot of stunning wines, well balanced and with great intensity of avour.” SOUTH AFRICAN C O N N O ISSE U R 2 3

“ ey got the tannins right, and got the oak right, too,” says Christine.

“I scored more than half of these highly. Lots of character—complex, harmonious, not too much tannin—just the right sort of character,” says Claude, looking really pleased.

“Even though they could age, they are ready now.  at’s good winemaking,” from an elated Christine.

Buks has another idea. “I’d like to see the top wines in  ve years’ time,” he says.  at’s a good reminder. In our fast-paced lives we seem to have forgotten that these classic reds really do bene t from cellaring for some years before opening.  e di erence in terms of subtler, nuanced aromas and  avours, not to even mention so er tannins, can be remarkable.

“And they’re all real blends,” Winnie chimes in again. “Not just Cab/Merlot mixes.” Christine adds: “Some very creative blends using Malbec and Petit Verdot.” So, if you’re looking for something special to go with that rib eye on a crisp winter’s night, try a good BB (Bordeauxstyle Blend) and congratulate yourself on your good taste. SOME LIKE IT SWEET

We taste a batch of not only sweeties, but also some o dry and semi sweets. We notice that as the sugar levels rise so does the quality.  is of course is not entirely due to the amount of sugar but also to the quality of the basic wine. Winemakers make the slightly sweet wines for a speci c market; let’s call it the high volume, commercial market— someone unkind may call it the “less picky” market. Once the wine is sweeter it is intended for a more discerning market, a market that is prepared to pay more, and therefore demands more. Some of the world’s most expensive and most cherished wines are the sweetest— think eiswein (ice wine), Sauternes, Tokay and our Noble Late Harvests, which come in small bottles because of their concentration and rarity.

Christine is quick o the mark. “ e Chenins are boring,” she says. “You have to have aromatics.”

Irina is quick to defend her beloved Chenins, “But those were high volume wines, Chrissie.”

To smooth ru ed feathers, Clive changes tack with: “If you’re going to make a sweet, then make it sweet. Our white and red muscadels are the best.”

Winnie adds: “Yes, the sweeter wines are much better.  e show lovely balance and complexity, the rest are fun and good for curry.”

“ e category gets very interesting from the Special Late Harvest level upwards,” Irina goes

CLUB: Arendskloof Shiraz Tannat 2016

ALSO LIKED: Glenelly Estate Reserve 2012, Neil Ellis Left Bank 2014, Piekenierskloof Red 2015, Raka Spliced 2015

Cloverfield Shamrock Red NV , Hermauspietersfontein Die Martha 2013, Hermauspietersfontein Die Martha 2014, Marvellous Red 2014, Môreson Miss Molly In My Bed 2014, Môreson Pi-not-age 2015, Rainbow’s End Mystical Corner 2016, Rietvallei Shiraz Petit Verdot Viognier 2016, Simonsig Frans Malan 2015, Simonsig Frans Malan 2016, Simonsvlei Simonsrood NV, Stellenrust Kleine Rust Red 2016, Van Loveren Rietief Reserve Cape Blend 2016, Warwick Three Cape Ladies 2014, Waterkloof Circle of Life Red 2015

CLUB: Lyngrove Platinum Chenin Blanc 2017

ALSO LIKED: Catherine Marshall Amatra Chenin Blanc “Jono’s Wave” 2016, Cavalli Fillly Chenin Blanc 2017, Kleine Zalze Vineyard Selection Chenin Blanc 2017, Spier Savanha Winemaker’s Selection Chenin Blanc 2017

Black Pearl Chenin Blanc 2017, Boet And Brit Suikerbossie Ek Will Jou He 2017, Delheim Wild Ferment Chenin Blanc 2016, Landskroon Paul de Villiers Chenin Blanc 2017, Overhex Balance Winemaker’s Selection Chenin Blanc 2017, McGregor Chenin Blanc 2018, Strydom Daniele Chenin Blanc 2017, Spier Signature Chenin Blanc 2017, Schultz Pepper Street Chenin Blanc 2017, Tierhoek Chenin Blanc 2017, Van Loveren Fives Reserve Chenin Blanc 2017, Van Loveren No.5 Chenin Blanc 2018, Waterford Pecan Stream Chenin Blanc 2017, Waterford Library Collection Chenin Blanc 2017, Wilderkrans Estate Chenin Blanc 2017

on. “But these were less good, apart from the Rieslings.” is is an interesting point. Certain varieties, notably Chenin and Riesling, have higher acids and are therefore more suited to making sweeter wines because of the tension or balance created between sugar and acid—each urging the palate in opposing directions. It is this tension that creates excitement to a blend: that incredible highwire act of superb poise and balance. Noble Late Harvests with sugars above 200 grams per litre (g/L) may have acids as high as 10 g/L, a gure totally prohibitive in a dry wine.

“We make sweet wines so beautifully,” says Winnie. “e sadness is that they are not

more popular.”

Clive has the answer: “As a welcome wine, put a bottle into an ice bucket and serve with snacks when guests arrive.”

“Great idea,” Irina adds. “Now here’s a thing. I like to bring out a well-chilled bottle of, say, white Muscadel at the end of a meal and oer it around. Everyone claims to not drink sweet wine of course. So I pour myself a small glassful and pass the bottle to my le anyway. And it’s a funny thing, by the end of the meal that bottle is always empty.”

Could it be that sweet wines are simply not fashionable? In that case, home entertainers and their guests are missing some fabulous wines…

To purchase these wines and more, head to our website WWW.WINEOFTHEMONTH.CO.ZA

WINE-OF-THE-MONTH CLUB: Bon Courage Inkara Cabernet Sauvignon 2015 ALSO LIKED: Excelsior Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Flagstone Music Room Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, MAN Family Wines Ou Kalant Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Simonsig Labyrinth Cabernet Sauvignon 2016

ALPHABETICAL ORDER: Ashton Winery Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Bon Courage Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Dombeya Fenix Cabernet Sauvignon 2014, Dornier Equanimity Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Leopard’s Leap Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, Org de Rac Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2016, O’Connell’s Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Quoin Rock Fat Barrel Cabernet Sauvignon 2013, Strydom Rex Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Under Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Upland Cabernet Sauvignon Sulphur Free 2009, Van Loveren Five Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Van Loveren Four Cousins Collection Cabernet Sauvignon 2017, Waterford Cabernet Sauvignon 2015, Waverley Hills Cabernet Sauvignon 2017

Rust en Vrede is one of South Africa’s most established wine estates, with a reputation for premium, full-bodied red wines. Rust en Vrede’s Estate Blend has been the farm’s main focus for the past 30 years, expertly blending Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot.

Over the years, Rust en Vrede’s Estate has received many awards, most notably being selected ve times for Wine Spectator’s Top 100 Wines and being named Platter’s Wine Guide’s Red Blend of the Year. Rust en Vrede’s values of quality, consistency, and age-worthiness shine through in the Estate 2016, one of South Africa’s benchmark red blends.

WWW.RUSTENVREDE.COM

I come from a farming background. I am the   h generation on a wheat and sheep farm in Caledon, and since I was a little girl, I was always following my dad around the farm, so it felt natural to study agriculture.

Can you remember the  rst glass of good wine you had? It was only during my studies at the University of Stellenbosch that I really started to appreciate wine. A ernoons of winetasting around Stellenbosch happened regularly, and I remember returning to Hartenberg quite o en. I just loved their Merlot, but the whole range was fantastic quality.

What do you love most about winemaking? I love the fact that it is creative, and that each vintage is a clean slate. You can never follow the exact same recipe as the fruit changes with each season. I love the combination of food and wine, and I love the people of the wine world.  ey all have a passion for life, food, and wine!

What sets Guardian Peak wines apart? At Guardian Peak we source fruit from di erent areas. I believe this adds to the complexity and appeal of our wines. It’s not the traditional norm, but it suits our style. Guardian Peak wines are also made with the ethos “live with wine”, so the wines are interesting and nuanced, but not too powerful to intimidate consumers.  is is a rare quality in the wine industry.  e most interesting part of your job? I  nd it very interesting working with fruit from di erent areas and really getting a feel of the quality and diversity for a vintage by experiencing the building blocks.

And the hardest?Apart from the midnight pump-overs, it is tough to keep the style consistent. I am also a your game at work and running the household and family takes very good organising! I set high standards for myself, so it’s di cult to match my dream wine if I’m critiquing myself.

Any wines you have a so spot many di erent styles from di erent areas – the red fruit and fresh herb styles from cooler areas, to the blackcurrant and dark chocolate styles suits riper regions. Merlot is complex and di cult to make but can really reward you if you focus your e orts in the vineyard and winemaking.

‘I  nd it interesting working with fruit from

MEET THE WINEMAKER We sit down with Guardian Peak’s winemaker, Danielle le Roux, and talk to the mother of two about life, wine and her love for Merlot

How did you  rst get into wine?

mum of two—so keeping on top of

for?I’m a sucker for Merlot—so di erent areas’