The Wine Merchant issue 86 (November 2019)

Page 18

JUST WILLIAMS

Chain mail David Williams reports back from the autumn flurry of press tastings. Which of the mults, if any, pose the biggest threat to indies these days – or is the trend to boring, industrial ranges continuing?

A

s we head into the most

important trading period of

the year, I’ve been doing a little

industrial espionage on your behalf. After tasting the ranges of the major multiple

grocers (and the last surviving, still justabout-standing multiple specialist), I’ve

smuggled out a few ideas about what your customers will be offered as they wheel

group’s first-ever half-year loss. Most of the

is actually pulling ahead of the pack at the

were down by 0.8%, and the food-retailing

least in its well-made “W” range of lesser-

damage was done in the department store part of the business, but Waitrose’s sales

wing has been offloading underperforming stores, shaking up its buying department, and preparing for a switch of online

their trolleys past the gondola ends over What are the vinous trends in the

range of suppliers, the willingness to be a bit different (it showed two New Zealand

moving forward is helped by the

unarguable fact that its rivals are either in

view? These are questions from a different

standstill or moving backwards.

retailing universe, maybe, but it’s one that

Marks & Spencer, after years of

impacts the independent galaxy, and one

challenging Waitrose for the most

if it’s only to remind you of how not to do

Waitrose has increased its focus on own-label

Waitrose on top at the top

next year.

Partnership, with the announcement of the

what really marks it out is the still-broad

Of course, the perception of Waitrose

best shape from a wine quality point of

for Waitrose – or at least for the John Lewis

Manseng), launched earlier this year. But

the £10 to £15 region.

Which of the big beasts is currently in the

It has by all accounts been a difficult year

spotted varietals (Mencía, Marselan, Petit

for example), and the strength of its offer in

supermarkets? Where are they on price?

things.

an increased emphasis on own-label, not

Albariños at its most recent press tasting,

the next couple of months.

that is surely worth understanding, even

moment. Like all supermarkets, there’s

partner when its deal with Ocado expires For all that, however, when it comes to

the wine range itself, Waitrose, or Waitrose & Partners as it was rebranded in 2018,

The perception of Waitrose moving forward is helped by the unarguable fact that its rivals are either in standstill or moving backwards

THE WINE MERCHANT november 2019 18

interesting, dynamic and best quality (if

not always best-value) supermarket wine range, has been in retreat for a couple of years now.

This is clearly a response to its own well-

publicised financial troubles. But, while there is still plenty to enjoy in the M&S

range, it was sad to go through a line-up

featuring very few new wines, considerably less of the adventurous sourcing from

new or emerging countries that earned

the retailer so many friends in the presspack in recent years, and a switch to a

smaller portfolio of larger, more industrial suppliers focusing on £10 and under.


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