VERMOUTH EDITORIAL PANEL TASTING
EL BANDARRA (RED) Bandarra was a bit of a local secret for
almost 60 years until the Virgili brothers
decided to market their vermouth beyond their local area. Now it’s not only a staple in many Barcelona tapas bars but has
a global following. Maraschino cherry
EL BANDARRA (WHITE) For both Bandarra vermouths, the bottles
alone were almost enough to swing a place in our top 12, but luckily the contents
REGAL ROGUE LIVELY WHITE Based on Hunter Valley Semillon, this
is a full-flavoured white vermouth with a zippy, herbal character thanks to the
lived up to the packaging. There are 40
limes and thyme in the recipe. There’s also
herb extracts here, creating an almost
tropical and coconutty effect, with vanilla
elderflower, lemongrass and chamomile
in the mix, making it a refreshing summer
chocolate and a hint of liquorice. Love Drinks RRP £22
balanced by a gentle sourness on the finish.
coming through strongly. The sweetness is
apertif to enjoy on its own, over ice. For us,
fernando de castilla vermut
VERMOUTH DEL PROFESSORE alla vaniglia
VERMOUTH DEL PROFESSORE torino rosso
richness and sweetness, with plum and
Made from Palomimo and Pedro Ximenez
grapes, barrel-aged for around eight years, this almost alarmingly brown vermouth reminded some of us of uncooked rock cakes; for others it tasted like a heady,
ready-mixed negroni. A winter warmer on its own, or mix with something fizzy and zesty for al fresco shenanigans. Boutinot RRP £18.50
Love Drinks RRP £22
The vanilla is definitely the most
immediately striking sensation here, but there’s far more going on than that in
this deep, dusky and spicy vermouth. The
sense of decadence is underlined by wafts
the highlight of a four-strong range. Enotria&Coe RRP £18.95
A vermouth that definitely takes us into
more savoury territory than most, with a dry, almost vegetal flavour and balsamic
notes. Not very sweet, not very bitter, and with distant hints of plums and Tunes
of upmarket antiques shop and lipstick,
throat sweets, it’s a Nebbiolo-based recipe
Astrum RRP £33.50
Astrum RRP £23.50
maybe rose hips. Would Lovejoy drink this? Almost certainly.
THE WINE MERCHANT may 2019 48
from a producer doing great work with forgotten Italian spirits.