How One New York Wine Director Builds Well-Rounded Wine Programs

Emily Johnston Collins

are recognizable and popular. On any given night, Lofstrom says at least four guests will ask about Chablis, so he makes sure to have Chablis on the list.

Additionally, he says, “Sancerre is a big category in New York. Gotta have it!”

And there isn’t a program he runs that doesn’t include Bordeaux, “Even people who know little about wine have heard the name Bordeaux.”

Lofstrom jokes that his affinity for Bordeaux makes him the least cool wine director in New York. He said there is a strong trend among the younger generation of New York sommeliers to avoid the region, or at least its best-known châteaux, as they seem to view it as having little diversity. But Lofstrom, a student of the Wine & Spirit Education Trust Master of Wine program, believes it to be incredibly nuanced, adding that the top châteaux are proven representatives of this. He also makes a good case for changing the perception that Bordeaux is outdated by pointing out that it is at the cutting edge of innovations in the face of global climate change.

In making his argument for the benchmark producers of Bordeaux, Lofstrom reflects on the business side of running a wine program.

Dave Lofstrom has found his niche in building and revamping wine programs for luxury companies. Since 2020, he has helped develop the programs at WS New York, Wine Spectator’s now-closed private club and restaurant in New York City; Brush Creek Ranch in Wyoming, a working wagyu ranch with a lodge, spa, dining, and an extensive wine cellar; and Restoration Hardware’s new RH Guesthouse also in New York City, which houses a fine-dining restaurant and an upcoming Champagne and caviar bar. While Lofstrom stays abreast of trends, he isn’t unduly influenced by them when it comes to making wine selections. More important to him is designing a program that meets both the desires of the guests and the needs of the restaurant.

For instance, he raises an eyebrow at wine programs that give the impression that the head chef and wine director have never spoken. This makes it hard for a restaurant to live up to guests’ expectations for a cohesive experience. At RH Guesthouse, Lofstrom built a program in keeping with the boutique hotel’s driving theme, quality. To him, this meant looking to the classic regions of the Old World, which “are classics for a reason,” he says. But he also turns to quality-driven New World regions like Napa Valley, Oregon, and Australia’s Margaret River. When he was working for the WS club, these were particularly integral to the list given Wine Spectator’s famed affinity for New World wines.

On the floor, Lofstrom aims to put guests at ease. He takes note when guests open conversations with self-doubting phrases like, “I usually drink Malbec. Is that OK?” To reduce their anxiety, he seeks to offer selections that

“Don’t put a barrier in front of a guest who wants to spend money,” he said, meaning that by replacing a well-known Bordeaux château with an up-andcoming and cheaper producer, you’re automatically preventing a higher sale. But your high-end wines still need to be within reach of most of the clientele. Lofstrom points out that storage is a common challenge for restaurants in New York City. To manage it, he needs to know that a given wine on the list will turn over relatively fast. Perhaps, then, Pétrus—back vintages of which can reach five-digit prices, according to a quick search of the city’s notable lists—is better off skipped. In fact, Lofstrom is seeking more second wines from top châteauxs as Bordeaux prices continue to rise.

Related to rising prices, availability has become a challenge in recent years due to the COVID-19 pandemic and various weather disasters. Among the wines that have plummeted in inventory are Sancerre and Champagne; two core regions for Lofstrom’s program at RH Guesthouse. To maintain consistent availability, Lofstrom relies on his knowledge of current events in the wine world; he approached his bosses about investing in extra stock of Sancerre before the shortage hit. All that said, he is among the many wine directors who work to establish interest in satellite appellations and to give voice to up-andcoming regions,especially those with available wine to sell.

Lofstrom also pays attention to how the world perceives wine, as evidenced by his habit of asking friends outside the wine industry to check his wine offerings for approachability. Because of this, he has picked up on a new trend across the U.S., an increased interest in stemware. As anyone who has ever broken a costly yet fragile Zalto glass knows, this is another example of a beverage director’s need to invest in the guest experience while still making sound financial decisions. WBM