ADVENTURE
Legging it with littlies Aya Mackay takes her young family on the Abel Tasman Great Walk.
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fter spending an enjoyable Christmas camping at Kaiteriteri, we thought of doing our first Great Walk in New Zealand. My girls, five and seven, are fit and full of mischief. They adore being outdoors, so hubby and I decided to walk the Abel Tasman over four days in early March. That gave us time to prepare (we’d never been tramping), the weather would still be warm and, as we live in Marlborough, the track is handy. I grew more apprehensive as time passed – would we be able to carry everything we needed? What if the kids hurt themselves or became unwell? In the spare room I laid out our gear. Thankfully my dad, a keen hiker, had gifted the family many items. The Queen Charlotte track is nearby so that became our first trial. I put 10kg in my bag, 15kg in hubby’s, and water bladders, snacks and jerseys in the kids’ little packs. It was a tough day. My back and shoulders ached from my ill-fitting pack, and hubby’s was no better. On the plus side, the kids did well and we walked 14km. A good friend (and tramper) glanced at our gear and said, “Half of this needs to go.” Our pile dwindled. She was also unimpressed with my backpack, a relic from my 20s when I first came to New Zealand. She offered hers, we packed it with 12kg, and wow – I felt like I could dance in it. Hubby changed his pack too.
Day 1: Marahau to Anchorage (12.4km, estimated 4hr) As we walked onto the boardwalk about 9.30am, looking at the sparkling estuarine water, it already felt like a special place and moment. Earthy forest smells soon had me relaxed and happy. That first day was mostly easy walking. We stopped at Apple Tree Bay for lunch. A curious weka joined us – and made off with some poor guy’s jandal, with him in hot pursuit. He emerged from the bush with wet shoes, a scowl – and his jandal. A DOC staff member later told us weka have learned to open zips with their beaks. The kids were so happy walking along the track, fantails flitting around them. The bush became a wondrous world in their imagination as they watched for ‘jungle animals’. We reached the new and lovely Anchorage hut about 3.30pm – six hours. The kids were excited to choose their room, and both wanted the top bunks, of course. We enjoyed a swim to relieve tired feet and aching legs. After dinner and a few rounds of cards, the kids were in bed (without fuss) by 7.30pm.
Day 2: Anchorage to Bark Bay (11.5km, est. 4hr) A little tired but fresh the next morning, we devoured our porridge. The tide was draining from the estuary, meaning we could shortcut across, saving an hour. We ditched boots but sharp shells soon forced us to don jandals. The mud tried to suck them off our feet and then splatted our backs with mud-dots. The girls thought it was a great laugh. Above: Aya brings up the rear, behind the girls Opposite Page: Clockwise - Family fun; life’s a beach; making friends with a weka 66
We chatted to walkers who had boated or kayaked in, passed waterfalls and found fish and eels in the creeks, but the day’s highlight for the kids was the big swing bridge, which they crossed several times, shrieking with delight. The bush finally gave way to orange clay ground – stunningly pretty but steep down to Bark Bay Hut. Time five hours. Another young family at the hut had kayaked in. Their children were about three and five and easily made friends with my girls. They all played outside until dark.
Day 3: Bark Bay to Awaroa (13.5km, est. 4.5hr) After another great sleep we began at 9am in warm sunshine, but rain was predicted for late afternoon, turning heavy. The day started with a steep climb. The girls were as enchanted with their adventure as they had been on the first day, counting all the orange markers on the trees, rubbing their cheeks on soft moss and lying on the cold clay ground. After the long walk over the hill we reached the golden sand of Onetahuti Bay. We only saw one other couple – New Zealand magic. In the girls’ exuberance to reach the beach our littlest took a tumble and cut her hand. Patched up, she was soon playing happily on the tree swing. We pushed on to beat the rain. After another steep hill we sighted Awaroa Hut, nestled by a huge sandy estuary. Just as we arrived the drizzle began.
A good friend (and tramper) glanced at our gear and said, “Half of this needs to go.”