the
dr op WINTER 2023
Rebecca Pitcair n's Ultimate Guide to an English W ine Chr istmas
Tom Sur gey
Class of '23
Fine W ine
Pick of the Pays d'Oc
Toby Buckland and Dan Farrell-Wright join the harvest
Aged wines drinking beautifully now
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W elcome
A
s I write this, the clocks have just gone back. The nights are drawing in. My thoughts are turning to cosy nights in front of the fire and slow cooked stews. The kind of cooking to pair with deep, flavoursome reds, especially those from the south of France. As the winner of Best Specialist Ret ailer Sou t h an d Region al Fr an ce in this year ?s Decanter Retailer Awards, who better than the Wickhams team to guide you. The judges praised our range, and policy of direct sourcing from producers wherever possible. In these straightened times, reducing the length of the supply chain gives you better value, and gives the winemakers a bigger share of the purchase price. A winning formula.
"W ickham s has done excell ent w or k this past ye on Beaujolais an ar d b eyond, w it h tw also o-t hir ds dir ect sour cing and the categor y accou nting for a f if th of sales."
To celebrate we?ve packed this edition with information about Languedoc-Roussillon. I reveal my favourite appellations; Tom Surgey picks a crop of Pays d?Oc wines; and British couple Bob and Pat Middleton talk about their purchase of Domaine Les Caizergues in 2017. We're also talking harvest. With the fruit picked, pressed and fermenting, I?m looking forward to tasting the 2023 vintage. The third Thursday in November is our first chance to try this year ?s wine. We've got first wines from Beaujolais and Devon. TV presenter Toby Buckland and I visited two Devon vineyards during harvest to learn more. Finally, Christmas is coming. Rebecca Pitcairn, host of The English Wine Diaries, provides the ultimate guide to English wine pairings for your festive fare. Plus there's fantastic fizz, fine wines, and sweet treats. Get ready to celebrate in style.
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Fr ench for
Good Value... Languedoc-Roussillon is the largest winemaking region in the world with a reputation for value for money. It is estimated that during the 20th century 1 in every 10 bottles of wine originated from Languedoc-Roussillon. Synonymous with value, it is a region all wine lovers should rediscover.
It stretches from the Rhône valley in the north to the Pyrenees in the south. Its position, adjacent to the western Mediterranean, is blessed with sunshine and the perfect conditions to ripen grapes. Thankfully, a dalliance with cheap, mass market plonk has given way to a focus on quality over quantity. Languedoc now has the highest number of organic wines in France.
o ds e
Pays d?Oc wines are mostly single varietals, whilst the major appellations are all about blends.
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Red W ines
Red and rosé wines are rich, fruity, and fullbodied. The most popular grape varieties are Syrah, Grenache, Carignan and Mourvedre.
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W hite W ines
White wines are crisp, fresh, and zesty. Picpoul and Grenache Blanc are the most commonly planted, alongside Rolle (Vermentino), Roussanne, Marsanne, Viognier and Bourboulenc.
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Spar kling W ines
Limoux is renowned for sparkling wines, production of which predates that of Cham pagne. FREE delivery on orders over £40 There are two appellations: Crémant de Limoux and Blanquette de Limoux.
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Languedoc-Rousillon
the joys of
Pays d'Oc Tom Surgey reveals why we all need a little Pays d'Oc in our lives.
ist, and by-and-large, we oblige. We get het-up on the prescribed varieties and the typical characteristics of the grapes permitted.
hen did you first feel as though you ?got?wine? For me, zen-like enlightenment arrived when I finally understood the appellation system, I saw how the wine world fits together.
W
The appellation system is the backbone of how we order and navigate the wine world; geographically defined regions within winemaking countries, set-down in national law. Think Burgundy, Bordeaux, and ever smaller areas within them, single-vinyeards like Meursault or Saint Julien, each clearly delineated from neighbouring areas due to ?terroir ?. Over centuries, we establish hierarchies of quality between appellations that largely define the price and value of wines made within them. The appellation system requires our shared belief to ex-
Appellations make wine more controllable, learnable, and marketable. It would be a bit embarrassing if they were thrown into any kind of doubt, wouldn't it? Well, let me do just that. There are rare examples of geographically defined winemaking regions that sit outside the appellation system. They remain unbridled, entirely unconstrained by the politics and formality of these ?proper ?appellations. Poohpoohed by the traditionalists. They often cover an identical area to traditional appellations, sometimes straddling boundaries and encompassing multiple appellations within them. Crucially, they offer winemakers an alternative classification to label their wines. They offer more creativity, more grape varietals, and more winemaking techniques. One such denomination is Pays d?Oc.
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Pays d?Oc sits over the entire area of Languedoc-Roussillon. A diverse, sprawling area encompassing sun-drenched inland plains, craggy mountains, and Mediterranean coastlines. There are lush bits, dry bits, and windy bits. There are castles to stay in, French holiday makers and some of France?s best regional foods. Think olive oils, cuttlefish, oysters, anchovies, charcuterie, loads of goats cheeses (Pélardon), great hunks of pork and beef on the grill. It is a breathtakingly beautiful, properly rural French idyl. Pays d?Oc is technically an IGP (a lower-tier classification in French wine law.) IGPs insist on wines made under their classification being from vines grown within the defined area and made in a winery within the area, otherwise, they?re pretty relaxed. There are currently 58 permitted grape varieties, giving winemakers the opportunity to explore new styles and the dynamism to keep up with a fastchanging climate. It is this openness to new varieties and
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TOM 'S PICK OF THE
Pa y s d ' O c
1
LA LOUPE BLANC 20 21 I am in love with Grenache Blanc, This is a great example, muscular and tense on the palate, it?s a medium bodied wine but with lovely tingly freshness. Not a fruit-salad of aroma and flavour here, Grenache Blanc is always restrained. Think lemon peels, a little unripe melon and grapefruit, subtle saltiness on the finish. A wine of textures and weight. Delicious on its own, even better with seafood. Any 6 mix £10 .80 | Single £12
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LE VERSANT ROSÉ 20 22 Such a banger and extraordinary value. The pale pink hue of a Provence rosé but with depth of flavour, intensity of fruit and an energy that is impossible to achieve at thrice-the-price in the swankier region round the corner. This would make dream pub-garden by-the-glass rosé. Berries, red cherries and garrique herbs. Enjoy on its own with friends, or a salad nicoise.
Any 6 mix £10 .80 | Single £12
LE FOU PINOT NOIR 20 22
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Juicy, bright, moreish Pinot Noir. This is such a crowd-pleaser, but what really gets me is the layers of subtle earthy, savoury spice. Behind the raspberries, blueberries and juicy fruit, although a dry wine, there is a salted-caramel, hazelnut praline note at the tip of the tongue that makes it impossible to put down. Yummy. I?d be angling this at cheeses and charcuterie and breads etc.
the ability to name the grape variety on the label that is key to Pays d?Oc?s success. France?s appellation system has always considered varietal names as secondary to the region as the definer of what will be in the bottle. Since the 1980s and the burgeoning presence of 'new world' wines, consumers have been increasingly keen to see the variety on the bottle. In 1987 Pays d?Oc was established to offer just that. So successful has Pays d?Oc been that over half of the area that Languedoc covers is now farmed as Pays d?Oc too. There are nearly 1000 family businesses making Pays d'Oc wine, 154 co-operatives, and 12,000 growers. Production is 701 million bottles per annum, of which 83 million are organic, making it France?s top organic wine region. Pays d?Oc is also the largest rosé region in France.
Much of this is great-value. AlAny 6 mix £11.25 | Single £12.50 though Pays d?Oc is increasingly used by producers to categorise CAIZERGUES "LES TISSERANDS" 20 20 their premium, age-worthy A fascinating, medium-bodied red with soft but grippy wines, it is definitely a designatannins. The nose is damsons, plums, baking and tion that celebrates varietal publack pepper spices. It doesn?t scream at you, it?s rity, freshness and brightness of elegant despite its powerful concentration and fruity fruit in its wines. You can excore. A little herby, dusty earth on the finish is really plore both the terroir of the renice. A lovely wine with a few years?bottle age. refund or replace if you're not 100% happy! FREE delivery on orders over £40 gion and revel in its approachIdeal forWe'll Sunday lunch with some protein on the table. able nature. Any 6 mix £12.15 | Single £13.50
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Languedoc-Rousillon
the best of the
Appellations Dan Farrell-Wright selects wines from his favourite Languedoc appellations
Cor bier es Fruity and juicy red wines mostly made from Carignan, Syrah and Grenache. Easy going from Corbieres, slightly more serious from Corbieres-Boutenac.
LE LION DE CICÉRON 20 19 AOC CORBIÈRES An organic and compelling blend of Syrah, Grenache and Carignan. It is aromatic and fruity with supple tannins, flowing into ripe notes of garrigue herbs and cherries. The vineyards are located directly below an amphitheatre hollowed out by the river Orbieu.
Pair with cold cuts, roast poultry or mature cheese.
Limoux
Any 6 mix £14.40 | Single bottle £16
Limoux combines French finesse and great value. Unlike any other Languedoc appellation Limoux red wines must contain at least 50% Merlot - making for softer, more supple wines.
CHÂTEAU FABRE GASPARETS 20 18
DOMAINE DE MAYRAC ROUGE 20 19
AOC CORBIÈRES-BOUTENAC
AOC LIMOUX
Bold aromas and flavours of cherry and black fruits infused with subtle, exotic spices. An organic blend of Mourvèdre, Carignan, Syrah.
Notes of black, brambly fruits, pepper and chocolate. Thanks to the blend of Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Syrah, the palate surprises with the quality of its silky tannins, long finish and freshness.
Perfect with hearty dishes, juicy rare steak or sausage cassoulet.
Any 6 mix £22.50 | Single bottle £25
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Pair with grilled meats..
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St. Chinian Nestled into the Montagne Noire, the vines of Saint Chinian look out across the Mediterranean Sea. There is a brightness, freshness and perfumed elegance which you rarely find in other appellations. St Chinian wines have the potential to be the most refined in Languedoc.
Picpoul de Pinet Within sight of the Mediterranean, the vineyards surround the Bassin de Thau. The sea is never far away, the appellation tag line "son terroir c'est la mer", translates as our terroir is the sea.
CH. COUJAN BOIS JOLI 20 19 AOC SAINT CHINIAN
SEL ET DE SABLE 20 22 AOC PICPOUL DE PINET Made from 100% Piquepoul, one of the oldest varieties in the Languedoc. Fresh and floral aromas lead to a dry and refreshing palate. There is a zingy citrus note, tropical fruits, and a distinctive twang of sea spray salinity. The classic food pairing is fresh oysters.
40 year old Syrah and Mouverdre vines have been used for this wonderfully decadent wine. Bright black fruits are complimented by garrigue herbs, earthy truffle and Christmas spices - cloves and cinnamon thanks to 14 months in French oak barrels. Try this with slow roasted lamb.
Any 6 mix £13.0 5 | Single bottle £14.50
Any 6 mix £22.50 | Single £25
Ter r asses du Lar zac Previously part of Cô teaux du Languedoc, Terrasses du Larzac vineyards are in the foothills of the Massif Central and are some of the highest in Languedoc at up to 400m above sea level.
PETIT PARADIS 20 22 AOC SAINT CHINIAN As precious as it is rare., whites make up just 1% of St Chinian production.
CAIZERGUES "LES AMORIERS" 20 18 AOC TERRASSES DU LARZAC A blend of Carignan, Mourvèdre, Grenache, and Syrah. Powerful notes of red cherry, cocoa, and a touch of liquorice. Well balanced with a silky mouthfeel.
This is a complex, generous wine made from Grenache Blanc, Marsanne and Rolle. It has complex aromas of white fruit and quince jam. The palate is intense, soft, with a long spicy finish.
Delicious with grilled steak and autumnal ceps.
Pair it with monkfish tagine or fresh tuna.
Any 6 mix £17.55 | Single bottle £19.50
Any 6 mix £12.99 | Single £14.43
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8
Languedoc-Rousillon
meet the w inemaker s
Bob & Pat Middleton A British couple investing in the future of Domaine Les Caizergues
?How, ? I joke with vineyard owner and businessman Bob Middleton, ?do you make a small fortune from wine?? "Start with a large fortune!" The wine trade is a passion rather than a route to riches. Bob, and his wife Pat, have always been passionate about wine. ?Over the years, we have enjoyed discovering new regions,? explains Pat, ?talking to estate owners, learning their philosophies, seeing how they grow grapes, and watching them make wine.? Tasting wine along the way is an added bonus. ?As someone with a doctorate in chemistry,? adds Bob, ?I find the transformation of a simple grape into wine fascinating?. During their travels the pair dreamed of owning a vineyard in the south of France. When the chance arose, they grabbed hold with both hands. ?It was a case of now, or never,? Pat says of their decision to buy Domaine Les Caizergues in 2017. Set in the foothills of the Cévennes mountains, the Caiz-
ergues vineyards are protected by the limestone cliffs of the Larzac plateau. Sitting at altitudes of 160190m the vines are subject to large diurnal temperature variations. This helps the grapes to ripen in a balanced way. The warmer daytime temperatures foster sugar development, whilst the cooler nights preserve aromas, freshness and acidity. The soil is primarily clay limestone, though it varies from pebbles, to sand, with occasional iron rich outcrops. As the French say, the vineyards enjoy nice terroir. Bob reveals why they chose Languedoc, ?the region attracted us because of its burgeoning reputation for quality wine at affordable prices. It is also home to many innovating vignerons and winemakers.? Pat continues, ?the large number of organic producers chimed with our environmental beliefs too. The weather here makes organic viticulture less demanding than in, say, Bordeaux ? where it rains more.? The estate has been certified organic since 2021.
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The vineyards span AOC Terrasses du Larzac, AOC Languedoc, IGP Pays d?Oc and IGP Saint-Guilhem-le-Désert. There are 14 grape varieties planted, each of which flowers and ripens at slightly different times. This diversity offers flexibility when blending and provides some protection against the vagaries of the weather. Six years into their adventure Pat admits there is still much to learn, ?with the support of our Chef d?Exploitation, we are improving. We are improving the quality of the vines, the soil, the trellising, and replacing nonproductive vines.? In the cellar too, ?we have a programme to im prove temperature control systems, replace old vats, and to add new barrels.? Bob and Pat's passion and commitment make Domaine Les Caizergues well worth getting to know.
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50 Shades of Gr ape 2023 has been a highly variable growing season. Winemakers have weathered drought, hail, extreme rain and even tornadoes. It is a tale of perseverance, careful selection and a little bit of luck...
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50 Shades of Gr ape
arvest in the Northern Hemisphere spans the autumn months from August to November.
H
in six years. Drought and high temperatures throughout the grape-growing cycle hurt many vineyards.
Early ripening grapes such as Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are picked first, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah follow, and grapes for late harvest wines such as Furmint for Tokaj are picked last.
The production of quality wines will be possible, but it will depend on the work carried out in the vineyard and the cellar.
In northern vineyards yields are up by as much as 20%. The Champagne producers union declared that the harvest was ?an absolute record in terms of volume?. English vineyards are reporting bumper crops. In Veneto, the northern Italian region best known for Prosecco, volumes are up by 5%.
VA RI ATI O N
V I NT A GE
By contrast southern European vineyards are struggling. Italy and Spain will produce their smallest vintages
In Languedoc-Rousillon the harvest started on 2nd August (a day earlier than 2022). Growers picked plot by plot, carefully measuring ripeness and acidity levels as they went. For those who could nuture their vines to full maturity and retain aciditiy, the vintage has the potential for great quality. Conditions at Domaine Les Caizergues made for a tough year. It started with extraordinarily dry conditions and groundwater at the lowest level for many years. The drought conditions worsened
And then, a little magic, a bit of luck, a few millimetr es of r ain, and ever yone w as br eathing again... through spring. Rain arrived in May and torrential downpours defined June and July, creating less than ideal conditions. ?Rain in early summer provides the conditions for diseases such as mildew to flourish,? explained owner Bob Middleton, ?this year disease hit the vines harder than ever ?. As an organic producer treating diseases ican be difficult, Bob revealed, ?some farmers had lost their crop by
20 20
20 21
In most regions 2020 was a good year. For white Burgundy and Champagne it was stellar.
Sandwiched between two warm, vintages, 2021 was more typically Beaujolais. Great for lovers of freshness and lower alcohol.
BERTRAND AMBROISE, "LETTRE D'ELOÏSE" 20 20
CLOS DU VIEUX BOURG "CROIX PENET" RÉGNIÉ 20 21 The nose bursts forwards with aromas of wild strawberries, cherries and redcurrants. The palate has well balanced acidity, gentle tannins and a hint of minerality.
Burgundian Chardonnay with a kiss of oak, hint of butterscotch, purity of fruit and balanced acidity. There is a steely backbone of freshness with the classic textural quality of well made Chardonnay.
Any 6 mix £16.65 | Single £18.50
Any 6 mix £25.65 | Single £28.50
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the end of June and just gave up.? Thankfully he held on and August saw a return to more Mediterranean weather. Bob described how they got the best from the harvest, ?some vines produced crops of wonderful, perfect grapes, others were riddled with disease. Careful selection was paramount. We hand-picked and selected as we went. We've produced quality wines, though it is not a harvest we?d choose to repeat!? Further north, in the hills of Morgon, Dominique Piron drew upon fifteen generations of experience. His description of the vintage was typically romantic, ?the grapes were very healthy, but multi-faceted. Some were chubby and bursting with sunshine. Some had lost part of their fruit due
to hail. Some, on lighter hillside soils, wrinkled from lack of water, were highly concentrated . A week before the harvest, we watched helplessly under a blazing sun and cloudless blue sky as the vines dried out.
the annual celebration on 16 November. Tasting the wine from a tank, she shared her thoughts, ?the vintage dances around your glass. It wears a pretty ruby dress, there is harmony and complexity, and it is easy to drink".
?And then, a little magic, a bit of luck, a few millimetres of rain, and everyone was breathing again, people and vines alike!?
Even in England, where newspapers have relished reports of bumper harvests, the story is one of careful selection.
In Chapelle-de-Guinchay the harvest began on 8th September. ?The summer was a scorcher,? exclaimed Cecile Dardanelli of Domaine bel Avenir.
Spring provided perfect flowering weather, no late frost, and 100% fruit set. Rain irrigated vineyards ensuring nicely fattened grapes. In most vineyards harvest started at the end of September.
?To keep the grapes as fresh as possible we started picking at 6.30am each morning, luckily the grapes remained very healthy right up to the end?. Cecile is working to get her Beaujolais Nouveau ready for
20 18 2018 was the best vintage for the modern era of English wines, described by some as a miracle vintage.
HATTINGLEY VALLEY ROSÉ 20 18 An elegant sparkling Rosé with soft mousse and lovely red fruit aromas. Winemaker Emma Rice said of the vintage: "There are a few vintages that mark themselves indelibly in a winemaker?s mind and 2018 was one of those. Not only for the quality of the grapes that we harvested, but for the sheer volume that came ourWe'll way and ripeness." refund or replace if you're not 100% happy!
Any 6 mix £38.25 | Single £42.50
Paddy Gaunt from Sandridge Barton boasted of all-time high tonnage. ?But,? he warned, ?quantity does not guarantee quality. Sugar was low and acidity high. 2023 is more
In Piedmont spring started badly, but the weather improved through the growing season. The weather conditions proved ideal for classic Barolo and Barberesco.
GIRIBALDI "COTTÀ" BARBERESCO 20 18 Bright and lifted with tart cherry and floral aromas that rise quickly with intent. The wine's focused approach is exactly what sets it apart. Berry fruit, hints of wild rose and a touch of over liquorice. FREE delivery on orders £40
Any 6 mix £29.70 | Single £33.0 0
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50 Shades of Gr ape
typically British than, say, the super-ripe 2022 vintage?. This led to difficult decisions for the winery team. Paddy explained that insufficient ripeness means there will be no red wine made at Sandridge Barton this year. Peter Hall, the veteran maverick winemaker from Breaky Bottom, started his harvest a month later than any other English vineyard. Sitting in his cellar I asked him whether he thought other English winemakers had harvested too early. Magnanimously, he reasoned that scale made organising pickers more difficult. Then, he cast a mischievous eye over bottles spanning 50 years of winemaking. Landing on a bottle from the better forgotten 2011 vintage, he poured a glass, sipped, and said simply, ?now, isn't that a good wine?.
Class of '23 BEAUJOLAIS NOUVEAU 20 23 Beaujolais Nouveau day is always the third Thursday in Novem ber. It is a celebration of the harvest and the first chance to experience the new vintage. Cecile Dardanelli has crafted a crisp,
fruity wine, with blackberries, blackcurrants, and silky round tannins. More importantly it promises to be lots and lots of fun!
Any 6 mix £12.60 | Single £14
SHARPHAM NEW RELEASE 20 23 The English alternative to Beaujolais Nouveau. Winemaker Duncan Schwab checks each fermentation tank 8 weeks after harvest to find the right candidate for New Release.
The true measure of a winemaker is how they perform in a difficult year.
The wine must have finished fermenting and it must be fresh, clean and ready to drink. This is not a wine that needs any bottle age it should be drunk in the full flush of youth.
For your first taste of the 2023 vintage, Beau jolais Nou veau and Sh ar ph am New Release are both available to order online now.
Any 6 mix £13.95 | Single £15.50
20 15
20 16 Rioja enjoyed its largest harvest in more than ten years with beautifully balanced wines and plenty to like!
A great year for Bordeaux, excellent for Cabernet Sauvignon and perfect for Merlot.
SEÑORÍO DE LA ERALTA GRAN RESERVA 20 16
LE HAUT-MÉDOC DE HAUTBAGES LIBÉRAL 20 15
Scored as one of the top 100 wines in the "Best of Spain" tasting. It is cherry red and bright in colour with hues of ochre. The prominent aromas are of ripe blackberries and black pepper spice. It is unctuous, full and complex.
Fine, elegant claret and a great introduction to the wines of this 5th Grand Cru Classé estate in Pauillac. The style is fresh and elegant, more subtle than you might expect for such a warm year with fine, linear fruit and supple tannins.
Any 6 mix £13.95 | Single £15.50
Any 6 mix £21.15 | Single £23.50
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Gr ape Expectations Toby Bu ck lan d joined Dan Farrell-Wright to visit two Devon vineyards and learn more about the grape harvest.
E
ach time I go to a vineyard, I learn something new. At Huxbear Vineyard in Devon, growing at the feet of the Chardonnay and Pinot Noir there's a small yellow daisy that owner 's Ben and Lucy have cleverly used as part of their pest management program. Known as Common Fleabane (pictured), the plants spreading roots help keep down the grass while the golden blooms draw in hoverflies - the larvae of which are voracious predators of thrips and aphids. Not only that, bees love it too, encouraging biodiversity amongst the vines.
harvest, conveying the grapes into a destemming machine, then through pipes to various shiny holding tanks and pressing, bottling, riddling, and corking machines. The thing that struck me was that at every stage the flavour of the wine can be modified (or ruined). There were dozens of barrels, each with a different age and history, offering the wine inside a different flavour. So profound is the effect of the barrels, each one has its own certificate of provenance who knew! And that's the thing...
What Ben and Lucy have created at Huxbear is extraordinary. What it is and where it is are so unexpected, but then, they are incredibly practical people that can turn their hand to anything, from construction, to fitting solar-panels. In fact, they're the people you'd want on the passenger roster of a plane that ditches onto a desert island. They'd have you living in comfort in no time and drinking such excellent wine you'd hide the keys of the plane before they fixed it. Going behind the scenes at Sandridge Barton, the new home of Sharpham Wine, was mesWe'll refund or replace if you're not 100% happy! merising. Assistant Winemaker Paddy Gaunt showed us the process of sorting through the
with so many variables, it's not just the abundance of grapes harvested from the surrounding hillsides that make Sharpham wines so good, it's the hard-won and long experience that's integral to their making. As Dan pointed out, "a good wine is like a story. A place, a harvest, and a sum mer. Each is unique." Dan explains the twists and turns of that story so well.
Wickhams are sponsors of Toby 's Gar den Fest ival. Join us at Powderham Castle, Exeter, on 3 & 4 May 2024. Early Bird tickets are FREE delivery on orders over £40 available now from £12, visit t obygar den f est .co.u k for details.
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Chr istmas Guide
An English Wi n e Chr istmas the ultimate seasonal guide With Christmas just around the corner, Rebecca Pit cair n recommends British wines to pair with your festive fare.
A
s the presenter of a podcast all about English wine and the people who make it, I?m a huge advocate for wine produced on our home soil. But long before I founded The English Wine Diaries in 2020, Christmas was a time of year when we?d always have a bottle from one of our local vineyards on hand to share with guests. With the growing pace in which vineyards are cropping up here in the UK ¬? there are now over 900 in England and Wales ? an increase of 74 per cent in just five years ? it?s little surprise that popping open a bottle of English fizz, instead of Champagne on celebratory occasions, has become commonplace across the country. However, while Britain has become renowned for its bubbles, we are now also producing some exceptional still wines that equally deserve a spot at the Christmas table. Here are some of my top picks to pair with all your festive favourites order now at w ick h am w in e.co.u k or call 01803 467547
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Sm oked sa l m on a n d sc r a m bl ed eggs w i t h Br ea ky Bot t om Cu vée Joh n Aga r d 2 0 17 Any 6 mix £36 | Single £40
Once the stockings have been opened, Christmas festivities are kick-started with smoked salmon and scrambled egg, a tradition that has stayed with me since childhood. It used to be served with a glass of Buck?s Fizz, but, I can?t quite bring myself to mix orange juice with English sparkling wine. So, leave the OJ to one side. A classic cuvée made from the holy trinity of Champagne grape varieties, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, really hits the spot. This awardwinning example from Breaky Bottom, a six-acre vineyard in the South Downs, is both beautifully balanced and wonderfully layered on the palate and nose ? its citrus notes and acidity standing up brilliantly to the saltiness of smoked salmon.
Sh el l f i sh w i t h Gu sbou r n e Bl a n c s d e Bl a n c s 2 0 17 Any 6 mix £59.85 | Single £66.50
Gusbourne, grows grapes in both Kent and Sussex. This blanc de blancs can be enjoyed by itself as an aperitif but is also a perfect accompaniment to fresh shellfish, thanks to its saline minerality. If you?re tradition is to serve oysters before lunch, or a classic prawn cocktail as a starter, then this is an excellent choice. A nose full of ripe citrus, grapefruit and pear prepares you for a sparkling wine that is generous with fruit flavours of lemon, green apple and nectarine with layers of toasted brioche and hazelnut .
It?s an elegant wine that will impress guests this year but would also be suitable to Breaky Bottom owner, Peter cellar for Hall, makes just two cuvées Christmases each year, dedicating each to a in years to close friend or relative ? in this We'll refund or replace if you're not 100% happy! come. case playwright and poet, John Agard.
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Tu r key w i t h Hen n er s Na t i ve Gr a c e Ba r r el Ch a r d on n a y 2 0 2 0 Any 6 mix £18.45 | Single £20 .50
England is now making still Chardonnay wines as good as the winemakers of Chablis. The exceptional vintage of 2020 has been responsible for some incredible exam ples and this barrel fermented Chardonnay from Henners in Herstmonceux, East Sussex, is one. Winemaker Collette O'Leary has used only parcels of vines showing the greatest potential in the vineyard to produce this 100% Chardonnay, which was fermented in old and new oak, aged for six months and then blended.
A fabulous foodie wine, there are the usual green and citrus fruit flavours you?d expect from a Chablis-style wine but, due to the time spent in barrel, there is a delicate spice and creamy, richness to the wine, which enables it to pair brilliantly with both the light and dark turkey meat, as well as the creaminess FREE delivery on orders over £40 of accompaniments such as bread sauce.
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Chr istmas Guide
Du c k or goose w i t h Ly m e Ba y Pi n ot Noi r 2 0 2 1 Any 6 mix £29.70 | Single £33.0 0
An English Pinot Noir could also work well with turkey, particularly the dark meat, but if you?re serving duck or goose instead for your Christmas lunch, then it?s a no brainer. While perhaps not as intense as the 2020 vintage, this Pinot Noir from Lyme Bay is made from grapes grown in Essex?s Crouch Valley, which is arguably regarded as the best site for still wines in England. Essex benefits from some of the lowest levels of rainfall and highest levels of sunshine in the country, allowing Pinot Noir to ripen to levels previously unknown in the UK. Consequently, the wine?s colour and flavour are more concentrated. The intense cherry, red berry and bramble fruit flavours of this wine brilliantly complement duck, while the higher acidity and lower tannin character of a young Pinot Noir such as this cuts through the fattiness of goose meat.
Ch r i st m a s pu d d i n g or m i n c e pi es w i t h Kn i gh t or En gl i sh Rosso Ver m ou t h Any 6 mix £17.55 | Single £19.50
With aromas of bitter orange zest and gentle spice, this English vermouth ? a fortified and aromatised wine from Knightor in Cornwall ? is the perfect tipple with all those traditional festive sweet treats like mince pies, Christmas pudding and cake. To make the vermouth, a batch of 31 herbs, spices and zest are infused in a fruity eau de vie, distilled from Knightor wineries grape skins, before being added to a blend of their red and white base wines. Following a short period of maturation, a small amount of caramel is added to provide the classic Rosso colour and underlying aroma. ?Our owner Adrian Derx's mother was Italian, and so we wanted to create a range of vermouths to celebrate his heritage and share it with our customers,? explains sales manager Liam Matthews, who suggests drinking the vermouth on the rocks or use it to make mulled wine. ?Combine red wine with either dry or rosso vermouth, sugar, orange, cloves, cinnamon and allspice and warm gently ? it?s delightful.?
Li gh t er pu d d i n gs l i ke pa vl ova , pa n et t on e or t r i f l e w i t h La n gh a m Rosé Br u t NV Any 6 mix £31.50 | Single £35.0 0
This award-winning rosé is made at Langham in Dorset by Tommy Grimshaw, one of the youngest professional winemakers in England and winner of the IWSC Trophy for Sparkling Wine Producer of the Year in 2020. With aromas of pink petals, pastry and strawberries and a fine mousse with notes of strawberries and cream and sour cherry, this is a com plex yet refreshing pink fizz, which pairs wonderfully with light fruit puddings and treats, such as pavlova and panettone.
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Ch eese pl a t t er a n d sa l t y sn a c ks w i t h Hu xbea r Or a n ge Bea r , 20 21
Boxi n g Da y l ef t over s w i t h Sh a r ph a m Pi n ot Rosé, 20 22
Any 6 mix £15.30 | Single £17
Orange wine has seen a boost in popularity over the past few years. While there isn?t a huge number of English winemakers trying their hand at this ?skin-contact?wine, the majority of those who are have been producing wines of exceptional quality. This one, made by Lucy and Ben Hulland, from Huxbear in Devon, is no exception. ?Making orange wine can be a little daunting as a winemaker because, due to the many variables, not least the wild ferment, no two orange wines taste the same,? explains Lucy. ?Despite this we feel drawn to it as it gives us an opportunity to experiment with low intervention winemaking.?
Any 6 mix £18.90 Single £21.0 0
For some, rosé is a wine reserved solely for summer but there are so many warming winter dishes that English rosé wine work particularly well with, including a good old Ruby Murray. This rosé, from Sandridge Barton in Devon, is a blend of Pinot Meunier and Pinot Noir and, thanks to the hot sum mer of 2022 is packed with aromas of redcurrant, raspberry and wild strawberry. Taste-wise, there?s enough flavour to stand up to spices and it would also go well with the cinnamon and curried flavours you find in coronation chicken. So, whether you?re using your leftover turkey to make curry or sandwiches on Boxing Day, give this one a try.
New Yea r ?s Eve c a n a pes w i t h Ca l a n c om be Est a t e Bl a n c d e Noi r s, 2 0 17 Any 6 mix £36 | Single £40
An English sparkler made from black grapes ? in this case, 100% Pinot Noir, hand harvested from a single plot at Calancombe Estate in South Devon ? this has a beautiful golden colour that feels completely fitting to a special celebration like New Year ?s Eve. Citrus and strawberry aromas give way to notes of baked apple and an elegant, long-lasting creaminess. This would make the perfect aperitif to kick-start the party and a great accompaniment to canapés, such as smoked salmon blinis and cheese gougères, as well as matching the earthiness of mushroom voulevants, succulence of pork belly bites and richness of mini-roast beef and Yorkshire pudding bites.
Made from 100% chardonnay (possibly the only orange wine in England made solely from this grape), and wild fermented, the wine has notes of stone fruits, such as peach and nectarine, with a touch of Rebecca Pitcairn is a journalist and host of The English Wine vanilla, while the robust Diaries podcast, an interview series which uncovers the stories palate is suited to salty of people in the world of wine (and beyond) and how a love of foods such as crisps, wine ? particularly that made on British soil ? has helped salted nuts, Manchego shape and careers. To We'll refund or replace if you're not 100% happy! their lives FREE delivery on orders over £40listen, visit and blue cheese.
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Chr istmas Guide
Festive f izz Wit h so m a ny excell en t s p ar kli n g w in es p r o d u ced ar o u n d th e w o r ld it 's e asy to fi n d a festi ve fi zz to su it b o th yo u r p alate an d y o u r p o cket. Wh ich o n e is yo u r p er fect p air in g?
CHAMPAGNE AR LENOBLE GRAND CRU BLANC DE BLANCS NV This delicious Blanc de Blancs is crafted from 100% Chardonnay grapes. It includes 35% reserve wine from the previous harvest. Unusually, it's aged in magnums rather than the final bottles, as the winemakers feel that's the secret ingredient. They should know: the same family has been producing this wine for over a century.
CAVA PARTICULAR GARNACHA BLANC DE NOIR NV Blanc de Noir describes sparkling white wine made with black grapes. In this case 100% Garnacha grapes are used, without skin contact, to make a fabulous Cava.
Golden coloured with the greenish tints typical of Blanc de Blancs. It boasts a stream of fine bubbles and a delicate foam. The nose is floral with rich white fruit. It's buttery and round with a very long-lasting finish.
The nose is scented and redolent of roses and raspberries whilst the palate is rich and creamy with notes of toasted almond, baked apple pie, soft red fruits and a long, lingering, aromatic finish.
Any 6 mix £45 | Single £50
Any 6 mix £16.65 | Single £18.50
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LES QUARTERONS CRÉMANT DE LOIRE BRUT NV For all the elegant fizz of champagne without the price tag, crémant is the name to know. Made from 100% organic grapes. It is a pale lemon in colour with notes of baked apples. The palate has a lovely, soft mousse with notes of lemon, apple, honeysuckle and brioche. Crisp and clean on the palate.
GIRIBALDI ALTA LANGA SPUMANTE PAS DOSE RISERVA 20 15
Any 6 mix £19.89 | Single £22.10
GRAN DUCAY BRUT NATURE CAVA NV
A blend of 60% Pinot Nero and 40% Chardonnay. The pas dosé (zero sugar) represents the purest essence of bubbles.
Made from the classic blend of cava grapes: Macabeo 60%, Parellada 30%, and Xarel-lo 10%, using the Champagne method.
A wonderfully bright fizz with aromas of citrus and honey. The wine bursts on to the palate with crisp, dry lemon. Elegance and grace come along with classic pastry notes.
It is a delicious combination of light floral notes, citrus, ripe white peach and pineapple with a smooth texture thanks to 9 months ageing on its lees. A lovely long finish with yeasty and nutty flavours.
In the glass the bubbles are tiny but persistent. The finish is long and lingering. An excellent bottle of sparkling wine, perfect to kickstart the most refined celebrations.
Any 6 mix £11.25 | Single £12.50
Any 6 mix £31.50 | Single £35
FILARE ITALIA PROSECCO EXTRA DRY NV
HUXBEAR CLASSIC SPARKLING 20 18
The perfect party fizz. Straw yellow with golden reflections, fine and persistent bubbles. The nose has notes of pear and apple, accompanied by hints of acacia flowers. On the palate it is fresh and pleasantly harmonious.
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Made by Filare Italia whose vineyards are located in Friuli, the lowland that is found between Codroipo and San Daniele. Thanks to the peculiarities of the area the grapes are transformed into sparkling wines with a delicate aroma that express the best of Italian We'll refund or replace if you're not 100% happy! wine culture.
Any 6 mix £12.15 | Single £13.50
When it comes to sparkling wine, England is bringing the "A" game, often beating Champagne in blind tastings. The geology of southern England is similar to that found in northern France and warming temperatures allow grapes to ripen perfectly. A classic nose of crunchy green apples with hints of pineapple. The bubbles are fine and persistent. On the palate it is dry with a touch of biscuitiness. Exceptional value for a fine English sparkling wine. This is as good as anything you'll find in Champagne.
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Any 6 mix £23 | Single £25.55 order now at w ick h am w in e.co.u k or call 01803 467547
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Chr istmas Guide
Aged to Per fection
Dr inking go d text w ine w it h oBody good food in go com pany is od one of life's m ost civilized pleasur es
Fine wines, perfectly aged, to help you celebrate in style
CHÂTEAU BECHEREAU 20 19, BORDEAUX
CHÂTEAU GACHON 20 16, BORDEAUX
AOC LALANDE DE POMEROL
AOC MONTAGNE-SAINT-ÉMILION
This is a classic, full-bodied Lalande de Pomerol made from a blend of Merlot (90%) and Cabernet Franc (10%).
A blend of Merlot (70%), Cabernet Franc (20%) and Cabernet Sauvignon (10%); this has a deep ruby colour with purple hues and has a soft nose of cherry, cassis, and spice.
Half of this French red wine is fermented in stainless steel before ageing in oak barrels for 12 months, the other half is fermented in oak. This combination creates a classic, full-bodied claret with a good balance of black fruits, toasty notes and some sweet spice.
Any 6 mix £16.99 | Single £18.88
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On the palate it is well balanced with a solid tannic structure and a complementary soft mid-palate of ripe fruits such as plums and red berries. It is well-integrated, the time it has spent in oak barrel has added structure and spice to the palate.
Any 6 mix £15.99 | Single £17.77
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FLORENT ROUVE, SAINT VÉRAN EN CRÊCHES 20 20 , BURGUNDY AOC SAINT VÉRAN Florent Rouve vinifies an exemplary range of Mâconnais wines in his cellar in Davayé in the heart of Saint Véran. Classic white Burgundy. It has the perfect balance of toasty hazelnut, slightly tropical fruit notes and textured palate. This is the perfect match for Turkey and will be on the table at Chez FW this Christmas.
PETER FALKE SIGNATURE "KAILANI" CABERNET SAUVIGNON 20 17, STELLENBOSCH
Any 6 mix £35.96 | Single £39.95
A winner of a prestigious Decanter World Wine Awards Platinum medal, scoring 97 pts.
DOMAINE MICHEL MAGNIEN, "LES SEUVRÉES" VIEILLES VIGNES 20 18, BURGUNDY
The wine has rich dark purple hues with exquisite aromas of raspberry, cassis and cedar wood. The palate has notes of red fruits with dense, smooth tannins and a beautiful lingering finish.
AOC GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN Pinot Noir is a great partner to the multiple flavours of Christmas lunch. A reticent nose grudgingly offers up notes of essence of plum, violet, earth and pretty spice wisps. There is fine verve and detail to the relatively refined medium-bodied flavors where the texture contrasts with the rustic and robust finish that exhibits a touch of warmth.
A great choice if you're having roast beef over the festive season.
Any 6 mix £77.40 | Single £86
AOC AUXEY-DURESSES BLANC
CHÂTEAU PAVEIL DE LUZE 20 16, BORDEAUX
If you want to taste just how Chardonnay should be, this is the wine to try. Crisp, clean with the perfect amount of oakiness.
AOC MARGAUX
DOMAINE JEAN PASCAL 20 18, BURGUNDY
This classic French Burgundian white wine has a nutty-rich nose of summer orchard fruits with a mealy nuance. The palate is rich, too: dense and absolutely stuffed with piquant, assertive mineral freshness.
A soft and alluring style of claret which is spicy and perfumed on the nose and opulent on the palate. This is classic elegant Margaux wine with great finesse and character, with redcurrant flavours and a soft silky finish. The combination of sand and gravel soils found in this area of southern Médoc are ideal to support both Cabernet Sauvignon We'll refund or replace if you're not 100% happy! and a high proportion of Merlot.
Any 6 mix £35.99 | Single £39.99
Any 6 mix £49.50 | Single £55
There's insistent grip to the very long finish. And when I say long, I mean long. This is simply a fabulous expression of Chardonnay and Auxey-Duresses in FREE delivery on orders over £40 particular. Any 6 mix £36.0 0 | Single £40
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Chr istmas Guide
Shor t & Sw eet Por t an d desser t w in es ar e t h e n at u r al f in ale t o a f est ive f east ? an d t h e per f ect excu se t o in du lge in ext r a cou r ses
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weet wines have a chequered history. Their high sugar and alcohol content meant they were originally prized for their stability, while their smooth and full-bodied character masked any excess acidity or off-flavours. However, they gradually fell out of favour when winemaking technology improved and dry wines came to the fore. Happily, high-quality dessert wines and their fortified cousins Port and Madeira are back on the top table, enjoyed for their rich flavours, smooth viscous quality, and unique ability to pair wonderfully with desserts and cheeses. Christmas is the perfect time to revisit the old favourites ? or treat yourself to a bottle of something you?ve never tried before
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STORM THE PORTS Port needn?t be restricted to the cheeseboard, it can also pair beautifully with chocolate cakes, truffles and nuts. And, after dinner is over, it?s indisputably best sipped while ensconsed in a leather armchair before a crackling log fire.
1. KROHN LBV 20 17 The spicy black fruit aromas hint at the vibrant plum and blackberry character of this rich port, while fresh acidity and firm tannins cut smoothly through the weightiest of cheeses.
Any 6 mix £17.55 | Single £19.50
2. KROHN VINTAGE 20 0 3 A perfect pairing for the stilton. It has retained a deep and youthful colour, the nose has intense black-fruit character with notes of sweet spices, liquorice and vanilla. The palate has structure and concentration with rich ripe plum and cherry flavours, more spice and firm tannins.
Any 6 mix £49.50 | Single £55
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Desser t w ines and 23 por ts ar e p acked w it h sw eetn ess and alcohol, so se them in a smr ve all glasses
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3. BORGES TAW NY RESERVA NV Beautifully complements chocolate, fruit pies and nut-laden desserts, as well as nuttier cheeses such as Gruyère and Emmenthal. This fresh old tawny Port sings with notes of plum tart and cherry pie, followed by a sea salt and flint finish. It?s a beautifully balanced and well-rounded choice.
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Any 6 mix £29.25 | Single £32.50
4. KROHN LÁGRIMA W HITE NV An intense yet elegant sweet wine with notes of caramel, honey, and nut - all balanced by fresh acidity and leading to a long and appealing finish.
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This could be drunk chilled as an aperitif, or pair it with fruity desserts. It has been filtered, so won't need decanting - once opened it should 'keep' and be enjoyable for a few weeks.
For a lighter, more delicate end to the evening the Bordeaux appelation of sauternes delivers in spades.
HUNGARY FOR DESSERT Tokaji (?tock-eye?), those golden sweet wines from north-eastern Hungary, also pair wonderfully with puds and cheeses, gliding effortlessly into after-dinner coffee.
If you?re serving blue cheeses or cheesecake desserts, turn up the sweetness with this rich, concentrated and exquisitely complex wine.
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Intense caramelised tree-fruits, melon and almond are rounded by a refreshing acidity, making this a wonderful accompaniment to fruity desserts, as well as lighter cheeses.
Any 6 mix £14.40 | Single £16
7. CLINE CELLARS LATE HARVEST MOURVÈDRE 20 19
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It has a honeyed fruit aroma, caramel notes and a fresh fruity character with a touch of We'll refund or replace if you're not 100% happy! creaminess that lingers. Any 6 mix £38.25 | Single £42.50
LIGHT UP THE NIGHT 6. CHÂTEAU LES MINGETS SAUTERNES 20 18
Any 6 mix £17.55 | Single £19.50
5. CHATEAU PAJZOS TOKAJI ASZÚ 5 PUTTONYOS 20 16
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The grapes are left to raisin on the vine before picking to allow the sugar-to-water ratio to increase. It's then finished in mostly old oak barrels for depth and complexity. The result is a silky, lusciously sweet wine with notes of coffee, chocolate and cinnamon balanced by dark berry juiciness ? and enough acidity to cut through the richness of a gooey, FREE delivery on orders over £40 chocolatey dessert.
Any 6 mix £21.60 | Single £24
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