5 minute read
The Joys of Pays d'Oc
When did you first feel as though you "got" wine?
For me, zen-like enlightenment arrived when I finally understood the appellation system, I saw how the wine world fits together.
The appellation system is the backbone of how we order and navigate the wine world; geographically defined regions within winemaking countries, set-down in national law.
Think Burgundy, Bordeaux, and ever smaller areas within them, single-vinyeards like Meursault or Saint Julien, each clearly delineated from neighbouring areas due to "terroir".
Over centuries, we establish hierarchies of quality between appellations that largely define the price and value of wines made within them.
The appellation system requires our shared belief to exist, and by-and-large, we oblige. We get het-up on the prescribed varieties and the typical characteristics of the grapes permitted.
Appellations make wine more controllable, learnable, and marketable. It would be a bit embarrassing if they were thrown into any kind of doubt, wouldn't it?
Well, let me do just that.
There are rare examples of geographically defined winemaking regions that sit outside the appellation system.
They remain unbridled, entirely unconstrained by the politics and formality of these "proper" appellations. Pooh-poohed by the traditionalists. They often cover an identical area to traditional appellations, sometimes straddling boundaries and encompassing multiple appellations within them.
Crucially, they offer winemakers an alternative classification to label their wines. They offer more creativity, more grape varietals, and more winemaking techniques. One such denomination is Pays d'Oc.
Pays d'Oc sits over the entire area of Languedoc-Roussillon. A diverse, sprawling area encompassing sun-drenched inland plains, craggy mountains, and Mediterranean coastlines.
There are lush bits, dry bits, and windy bits. There are castles to stay in, French holiday makers and some of France's best regional foods - think olive oils, cuttlefish, oysters, anchovies, charcuterie, loads of goats cheeses (Pélardon), great hunks of pork and beef on the grill.
It is a breathtakingly beautiful, properly rural French idyl.
Pays d'Oc is technically an IGP (a lower-tier classification in French wine law). IGPs insist on wines made under their classification being from vines grown within the defined area and made in a winery within the area, otherwise, they're pretty relaxed.
There are currently 58 permitted grape varieties, giving winemakers the opportunity to explore new styles and the dynamism to keep up with a fast changing climate. It is this openness to new varieties and the ability to name the grape variety on the label that is key to the success of Pays d'Oc. France's appellation system has always considered varietal names as secondary to the region as the definer of what will be in the bottle.
Since the 1980s and the burgeoning presence of 'new world' wines, consumers have been increasingly keen to see the variety on the bottle. In 1987 Pays d'Oc was established to offer just that.
So successful has Pays d'Oc been that over half of the area that Languedoc covers is now farmed as Pays d'Oc too.
There are nearly 1000 family businesses making Pays d'Oc wine, 154 co-operatives, and 12,000 growers. Production is 701 million bottles per annum, of which 83 million are organic, making it France's top organic wine region. Pays d'Oc is also the largest rosé region in France.
Much of this is great-value. Although Pays d'Oc is increasingly used by producers to categorise their premium, age-worthy wines, it is definitely a designation that celebrates varietal purity, freshness and brightness of fruit in its wines. You can explore both the terroir of the region and revel in its approachable nature.
Tom's Pick of the Pays d'Oc
LA LOUPE BLANC 2021
I am in love with Grenache Blanc. This is a great example, muscular and tense on the palate, it's a medium bodied wine but with lovely tingly freshness. Not a fruit-salad of aroma and flavour here, Grenache Blanc is always restrained. Think lemon peels, a little unripe melon and grapefruit, subtle saltiness on the finish. A wine of textures and weight.
Delicious on its own, even better with seafood.
Buy La Loupe Blanc 2021 from £10.80
LE VERSANT ROSÉ 2022
Such a banger and extraordinary value. The pale pink hue of a Provence rosé but with depth of flavour, intensity of fruit and an energy that is impossible to achieve at thrice-the-price in the swankier region round the corner. This would make dream pub-garden by-the-glass rosé Berries, red cherries and garrique herbs.
Enjoy on its own with friends, or a salad nicoise
Buy Le Versant Rosé 2022 from £10.80
LE FOU PINOT NOIR 2022
Juicy, bright, moreish Pinot Noir. This is such a crowd-pleaser, but what really gets me is the layers of subtle earthy, savoury spice. Behind the raspberries, blueberries and juicy fruit, although a dry wine, there is a salted-caramel, hazelnut praline note at the tip of the tongue that makes it impossible to put down. Yummy!
I'd be angling this at cheeses and charcuterie and breads etc.
Buy Le Fou Pinot Noir 2022 from £11.25
CAIZERGUES "LES TISSERANDS" 2020
A fascinating, medium-bodied red with soft but grippy tannins. The nose is damsons, plums, baking and black pepper spices. It doesn't scream at you, it's elegant despite its powerful concentration and fruity core. A little herby, dusty earth on the finish is really nice A lovely wine with a few years' bottle age.
Ideal for Sunday lunch with some protein on the table.
