Where® Thailand June 2014

Page 1

Thailand

PLUS

J U N E 2 0 14 THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO 速

W W W. W H E R E T H A I L A N D . C O M

A MEMORABLE JOURNEY

Exploring historic Kanchanaburi

PLUS YOUR ESSENTIAL GUIDE TO BANGKOK COVER_JUNE_2014.indd 1

5/22/14 6:09 PM


P.2 Berkeley_Jun_2014.indd 2

5/22/14 7:16 PM


CONTENTS where

®

l THAILAND l JUNE 2014

The Guide BANGKOK 17 DINING Thai food gets both traditional and molecular treatments

4

20 ARTS+ATTRACTIONS Three lesser known Bangkok museums well worth exploring

HISTORY REPEATED Discovering Kanchanaburi's fascinating past

22 NIGHTLIFE Things get raw at a new oyster bar

AROUND THAILAND 06 PEACEFUL PRANBURI A more natural option for a beach break

6

NEWS 08 ANDAMAN ARRIVALS Kids get a new play area while adults can help the local community thanks to a new campaign

12 UPCOUNTRY NEWS Flowers, butterflies, golf and ghosts all make an appearance this month

Sales Manager Sherry Maturose Kato

Editor Wachiraporn Janrut

Advertising Director Wanida Akeapichai

General Manager James Fuss Managing Editor Grégoire Glachant Deputy Editor Carl Dixon Production Supervisor Komkrit Klinkaeo Art Director Dechart Sangsawang Designer Panita Thiraphapon Contributors Monruedee Jansuttipan, Wanida Jiralertpaiboon

Marketing Manager Pavida Chitprasertsuk Marketing Executive, Creative Services Puttipat Teerakawongsakul Distribution Executive Suda Angsuputiphant

30 MAPS Silom, Sukhumvit, Siam and Rattanakosin

30 NAVIGATE 35 21 THINGS WE LOVE

MORRIS VISITOR PUBLICATIONS MVP | EXECUTIVE Vice President, Operations Donna Kessler Vice President, Operational Innovation Russ Leseberg Director Of Marketing Lynn Basinger

MVP | NATIONAL SALES Director Of National Sales And Custom Publishing Anthony Karwoski National Sales Managers Jennifer O'loughlin, Julie Humeas, Monica Weeks, Wanda Garcia-Fetherston

National Traffic Coordinator Leleah Robinson

E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris. Com

MVP | CARTOGRAPHY AND CIRCULATION General Manager, Where Maps Christopher Huber

On the Cover Death Railway Cover Photo by Monruedee Jansuttipan

MORRIS COMUNICATIONS Chairman & Ceo William S. Morris III President William S. Morris IV

Where Publishing (Thailand) Ltd. 22/F, Silom Center 2 Silom Road, Bangkok 10500 Tel: 02-624-9696 Fax: 02-237-5656 E-mail: where@asia-city.co.th facebook.com/wherethailand

From the opening of a luxe mall to a Fairtrade craft fair

ALSO INSIDE

14 GULF OF THAILAND Top golfers come to Samui and we bring you the top three attractions in Hua Hin

Managing Editor/Publisher Nick Measures

An old favorite gets a face lift

28 SHOPS+SERVICES

10 BANGKOK BUZZ A new hotel, an amazing sale and details of the city's biggest cultural festival

16

26 HEALTH+WELLNESS

www.wherethailand.com

MVP | CREATIVE Chief Creative Officer Haines Wilkerson Editorial Director, Visitor Guides Don Hoffman

Design Director Jane Frey Editorial Director, Custom Publishing Linda Chase Creative Coordinator Beverley Mandelblatt

MVP | TECHNOLOGY & MANUFACTURING Director Of Manufacturing Donald Horton E-Mails For All Of The Above: Firstname.Lastname@Morris.Com

@where_thailand

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D   3

TOC_JUNE_2014_1_NEW.indd 3

5/26/14 3:48 PM


Y

where FEATURE A JOURNEY OF REMEMBRANCE

Revisiting Kanchanaburi’s natural heritage and tumultuous history. By Monruedee Jansuttipan

RIVER KWAI BRIDGE

HOW TO GET THERE By car From Bangkok, take Highway No.4 (Phetkasem Road) before turning onto Highway 323 at Ban Pong district. Then drive until you reach Kanchanaburi. A taxi from Bangkok to Kanchanaburi is around B3,000 for a day trip. Premier buses leave from Bangkok’s Southern bus terminal on Borommaratchachonnani Road. By train From Thonburi Station, catch train No. 257 at 7:45am or train No. 259 at 1:55pm. Return trains from Kanchanaburi Station leave at 7:11am and 2:37pm. Alternatively, see page 8 for details of special rail tours.

HUA HONG COFFEE

The recent Hollywood release of The Railway Man, a film based on a bestselling autobiography of a British POW forced to work on the infamous death railway during World War II, has put the beautiful natural scenery of Kanchanaburi and its fascinating past firmly back in the spotlight.

WAR MEMORIALS Upon arriving in Kanchanaburi, you will be confronted with numerous reminders of WWII. Start with the JEATH War Museum (Chaichumphol Alley, open daily 8:30am-4:30pm, entry B30) at Wat Chaichumpolchanasongkhram, also known as Wat Tai. Founded by the abbot of the temple, this one-story bamboo shack is intended to resemble the shelters where prisoners of war (POW) from England, Australia and Holland were forced to live while building the Thai-Burma railway for the Japanese Army. Inside are the few everyday items they possessed, along with various photos and paintings detailing their plight. JEATH takes its name from each of the countries involved in the construction of the death railway: Japan, England, Australia, Thailand and Holland.

The World War II & JEATH War Museum (Maenamkwai Road, open daily 8am-5pm, B40, 034-512-596, 034-513-478), located near the River Kwai Bridge has a similar focus. Here things go into considerably more detail with some quite eerie touches like an old Japanese army locomotive, sculptures of WWII world leaders and skeletons believed to be POWs’ displayed in the darkened room of a temple-like building. Perhaps the most informative museum, the Thai-Burma Railway Centre (next to Don Rak Cemetery on Saeng-Chuto Road, open daily 9am-5pm, B120, 034-512-721, www. tbrconline.com) offers well-designed exhibitions covering the construction of the railway as well as the post-war situation, including models, videos and dioramas.

Another option is Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum (open Mon-Sat 9am-4pm, free), which specifically explores the brutal conditions endured while making the eponymous railway cutting here. Apart from the exhibition, you can also take a 15-minute trek down to Chong Khao Khad, better known as Hellfire Pass. One other famous stop is Don Rak Cemetery or the Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetery on Saeng-Chuto Road. You can also visit Chungkai War Cemetery, the site of the original POW camp and hospital during WWII. Though the war has been over for more than 60 years, these two cemeteries are still visited regularly and not just by surviving POWs. “I recently met a family from the UK who came to visit Don Rak cemetery as their relative was buried there. The grandson visited the cemetery to lay flowers and sat next to his grandfather’s grave for 30 minutes every day. He never met his granddad but the connection is still strong,” says Michael Newbatt, manager of the Commonwealth War Graves Commission in Thailand.

4 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

Feature_01_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 4

5/26/14 3:50 PM


FEATURE where Y ESSENTIALS Memorial Services There are two annual memorial services at Kanchanaburi Allied War Cemetery, the Remembrance Service held by the Royal British Legion on November 11 and Anzac Day held by the Australian Embassy on April 25. The Anzac event also includes a moving dawn service at Hellfire Pass Memorial Museum.

CHUNGKAI WAR CEMETERY

JAPANESE CEMETERY

THE WORLD WAR II & JEATH WAR MUSEUM

by POWs, especially the Australians HISTORIC ROAD and English.” Today, there is a small There are also less somber ways to exhibition devoted to his heroic acts in dive head-first into Kanchanaburi’s an old building named Siri Osot. history, like heading to Pakprak Road to visit the 170-year-old community This nostalgic road is also home there. Upon arrival, the first thing to beautiful cafés sat in centuryyou will notice are the beautiful century-old buildings, each with a sign old structures. First stop is Baan Sitthisang (141 Sitthisang House, detailing its special history and unique Pakprak Road, open daily 8amdesign. This road was once a 6pm, 034-514-514), a dense commercial area colonial-style home and was a focus for the turned retro café Japanese army doing that occasionally business during hosts weekend art their occupation. workshops. Another Here, you can worth a visit is Hua learn about the Hong Coffee (154 extraordinary Pakprak Road, open story of a merchant daily 8am-6pm, 034-511named Boonpong 577), decorated in a colorful Sirivejjabhandu, who KRA SAE CAVE Chinese-Viet style including risked his life to secretly vibrant flower-print chairs. The help POWs stationed in best way to take in this street is by the area. “He joined with Sir Ernest bike, easily done by renting a ride at Edward Dunlop, a POW at the camp, to smuggle in medicines and food, and one of the many neighborhood bicycle lend money,” Boonpong’s sister-in-law shops. Lamyai Sirivejjabhandu explains. “His courage has been widely honored

NATURAL ATTRACTIONS Beyond historic sites, the forest and waterfalls in Kanchanaburi are at their most beautiful in the rainy season when water gushes through the mountains and the greenery is especially lush. One place you shouldn’t miss is the striking Erawan Falls, the largest waterfall in the west of Thailand featuring seven cascades of water falling over 2,000 meters. Another waterfall worth visiting is Sai Yok Yai which is located in Sai Yok National Park. There’s a boat service that can take you on the Kwai Noi River to enjoy the lush scenery, too. For adventure, visit Thong Pa Phum District, set along the Thai-Burmese border it offers spectacular mountainous views. Other attractions include the beautiful Khao Lam Dam (Wachiralongkorn Dam) and Khao Chang Puak, set 1,249 meters above sea level, where you can enjoy panoramic views while trekking up the hill. Make sure to visit the well-preserved Baan Itong village to experience their traditional way of life.

Where to stay Set on the banks of Kwai Yai River, U Inchantree Kanchanaburi (034521-584, www. uhotelsresorts. com/inchantree) offers rates starting from B2,500 for a 19-sq-meter room. It’s within walking distance of the famous River Kwai Bridge and the small town’s shopping street, but it lacks the expansive gardens and pool of Dheva Mantra (034-634-191, www.dhevamantra. com), whose rooms start from B4,700. Opening in July, the stylish X2 River Kwai (02-168-7533, www.x2resorts. com) is offering introductory rates for bookings through July 31 and stays between July 1 and November 30 at B5,500 per night and B10,000 for a two-night stay including Champagne breakfast for two. If you want to stay on a raft, check out Boutique Raft Resort (034634-191, www. boutiqueraftriverkwai.com) in Sai Yok which offers rooms both in a hotel building and on a raft floating on the river at B2,500 per night.

JUNE 2014 I W HER E THA ILA N D 5

Feature_01_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 5

5/26/14 3:51 PM


Y

where FEATURE

BEACH RETREAT

HAT SAM PHRAYA

By Nick Measures

TUNG SAM ROI YOD

S

LAEM SALA BEACH

ituated around thirty minutes south of the resort town of Hua Hin, with easy access from Bangkok (around three hours), the sleepy seaside retreat of Pranburi offers beautiful, beaches, some stunning scenery and the chance to enjoy a more natural escape.

GETTING THERE Car rental is recommended so you can visit the numerous attractions during your stay. Try Sixt Car Rental (www. sixtthailand.com, from B780 per day) or Thai Rent a Car (www.thairentacar. com, from about B1,100 per day). Take Highway 4 as if you were heading to Hua Hin. The journey should take around 3.5 hours. Taxi service costs about B2,500 for a single trip.

BEACH COMBING

TAKE TO THE SKIES

The area south of Hua Hin is blessed with countless pristine and often deserted beaches. Probably the biggest and also the bestknown beach along this stretch of coastline, Pak Nam Pran (aka Khao Kalok) is a gently curving bay that reaches from the headland out by the Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas and slowly sweeps around to the iconic rocky outcrop, Khao Kalok (Skull Mountain). Its proximity to Pranburi town means it’s the most developed beach in the area, yet it’s still remarkably quiet. The only section that gets really busy is up in the shade of Khao Kalok, and then only on weekends and public holidays, when hordes of locals descend to drink whiskey and eat fresh horseshoe crab and fried chicken, served up by an army of beachside wait staff. The rest of the long beach is wonderfully empty, if often a little windswept, which means that the only interruptions you’ll have to your musings are from the birds and the kite surfers.

Like in Hua Hin, the sport of kite surfing is really big around Pak Nam Pran, thanks to the regular coastal breezes and the relatively calm, shallow waters. There are numerous places along the beach where you can learn how to fly across the crests of the waves, some even offer accommodation. Our pick would have to be Airstylers Kite School (www.airstylerskiteschool.com), which has a nice, laid-back attitude, offers lessons in English and has private courses for beginners at B4,000 for a two-hour sesson (radio helmet provided). Another decent option is Kite Surfing Pranburi (www.kitesurfingpranburi.com), which limits its classes to just two students per teacher and has a one-hour discovery course that costs B1,500.

PAKNAMPRAN BEACH

6 W H E R E T H A I LAND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

FEATURE_02_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 6

5/26/14 3:53 PM


FEATURE where Y ON YOUR BIKE

SAM ROI YOD

HIKING

NEW ROOMS

If flying across the waves at Another way to work up a sweat in breakneck speed seems a little hairPak Nam Pran is to take to the hills, raising for a holiday, then there are or specifically, the small national less intense ways of getting a work park of Khao Kalok, which has a out in Pak Nam Pran while enjoying series of nature trails winding up to the surroundings. Most hotels rent its summit. Be warned, it can get a out bicycles for hire (from B50-150 little hairy, due to the steepness of an hour), and the quiet roads, pretty the path and shouldn’t be attempttemples, stunning limestone hills ed in flip flops. Still the view from and sleepy pineapple plantations all the top is well worth the effort. help make for a charming backdrop Another good destination is the to your ride. Make sure nature trails at Pranburi to stop by the quaint Forest Park (089Wang Phong train 787-4812). Set up in station, a mini 1980 to protect the version of the one mangrove swamps at Hua Hin, and and forests around grab a drink or the estuary of the snack from the Pran River, it’s a lovely couple who pleasant spot to run the small stall take a stroll. There are outside. Alternatively, two trails to choose from: you can head past Khao one that goes via Pran Kiri SAMROIYOD Kalok to check out Wat beach and a shorter route Summanawas, also known that heads through the as the dog temple because it acts mangroves. Both can be reached as a refuge for the seemingly from the visitor center that also has thousands of stray pooches that call a few food stalls. Of course, when this area home. it comes to taking in some nature in this area, you’d be remiss not to check out the longer nature trails and abundant wildlife of Sam Roi Yod National Park (see box).

WANG PHONG TRAIN STATION

The latest hospitality brand to expand in the area is the Hansar Pranburi (www. hansarpranburi. com). Set on a quiet beach with views of the Gulf of Thailand, the property consists of 17 rooms ranging from 30-60 sq meters. The design integrates the surrounding beach environment, with a modern Thai décor. The former Six Senses Resort became the Sheraton Hua Hin Pranburi Villas (032-708-080, www.sheraton.com) late last year. While not strictly new, the 55 impressivelooking pool villas surrounded by beautifully landscaped grounds are pretty special and it’s a great spot for families. Set in a 60-year-old Thai teak house surrounded by a tropical garden, Away Hua Hin – Pranburi Boutique Resort (www. AwayResorts. com) has seven one-bedroom villas ranging from 25-30 sq-meters.

Y SAM ROI YOD Just around half an hour’s drive from Pak Nam Pran is one of Thailand’s most stunning national parks. Sam Roi Yod has it all—spectacular limestone cliffs, beautiful beaches, magnificent caves and a staggering array of wildlife, from crab-eating monkeys to more than 250 species of birds. There are a number of must-see highlights, including the vast wetland of Tung Sam Roi Yod. This 70-square-kilometer area, accessed by a separate gate from Highway 4, is dotted with lotus flowers, birds and wooden walkways. Another must visit is Phraya Nakhon, a cave complex that houses a temple pavilion and is reached via long tail

boat from Laem Sala Beach next to Bang Pu village. If that is too energetic, then just kick back at the delightfully quiet beach of Hat Sam Phraya. Stay: You can camp at Hat Sam Phraya and there are also cottages available. For more information, visit www.tinyurl.com/ n4hzovd Price: Entry to the park is B400 for foreigners. Count an extra B30 for your car. Top tip: If you like birds, then the best time to come is between November and May, when migratory birds stop by on their way to and from Siberia, Northern Europe and China.

PHRAYA NAKHON

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 7

FEATURE_02_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 7

5/26/14 3:53 PM


Y

where NEWS VILLA TANTAWAN

ISLAND POST What’s happening in Phuket and around the Andaman coast MANGROVE FOREST PLANTING

PHUKET

AROUND THAILAND

Thanyapura Health (076-336-000, www. thanyapura.com) in Phuket recently launched a series of health programs that are designed to help visitors destress, detox, and lose weight. Facilitated by professional fitness trainers and an international medical team, the center’s seven and 14-night destress programmes (B68,020) include private yoga sessions, a full nutrition review, massages and lessons with Thanyapura’s Mind Centre trainers. If losing weight is your goal, the 10 and 14-night weight loss programs (starting at B99,270) focus on healthy eating and exercise habits, and include a personal consultation with the resident doctor and sessions with a mind trainer. The seven and 10-night detox packages (from B80,967) involve IV therapies, a specially designed detox diet, infra-red saunas and light therapy to help the body eliminate toxins and metabolic waste. All participants will be lodged at the 77-room Thanyapura Sports Hotel, and have free use of the facilities at Thanyapura’s four centers.

The Tourism Authority of Thailand in collaboration with Thai Airways have recently launched a new Honeyteering campaign for honeymooners and couples who want to give something back to the local community during their stay. A total of 22 leading luxury hotels such as the Dhara Dhevi Chiang Mai, Sri Panwa Phuket and Conrad Koh Samui are offering the chance to take part in various volunteering activities as part of special four-night packages, which include romantic extras like candlelit dinners and a bottle of Champagne. Design hotel Casa de La Flora Resort (076-428-999, www.casadelaflora.com), sat amid the natural surrounds of Khao Lak National Park, offers a special package at B41,040 for a four-night stay in a 70-sq-meter studio pool villa, which includes a bottle of Champagne and set dinner for two. Volunteering activities available include a visit to Baan Than Namchai Foundation (076-461-488, www. bnc.or.th), established in 2004 to support children orphaned in the tsunami, mangrove forest planting or releasing sea turtles.

Detox Escape

Do it Right

THE KIDS CLUB

THANYAPURA HEALTH

8 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

NEWS_ANDAMAN_JUNE_2014_1_NEW.indd 8

5/26/14 4:08 PM


NEWS where Y PHUKET

Surfs Up

PHUKET

Holiday Homes

Last month saw the soft opening of Villa While the Andman Sea is well known for Tantawan Resort and Spa (076-385its serene state, that all changes come the 406, www.villatantawan.com) in Phuket’s monsoon season (May-October) when the Kamala district, 45 minutes’ drive from sea off Phuket turns into a temporary Phuket airport and 2km from surfers’ playground. Surin and Kamala beach. Consisting of Kata both have rideable waves, 22 contemporary-style pool but the pros recommend villas, the resort offers three Kalim and Nai Harn as villa types: 180-sq-meter the top spots. Beginners one-bedroom villa, 250-sqshould look for a school at meter two-bedroom villa Kata Beach, where rides and 538-sq-meter threeare fairly short and not bedroom villa, all equipped too intense. Andaman Sea with a Jacuzzi, Thai-pavilions, Surf (Taweewong Rd., Patong sunbeds, outdoor dining area and Beach, www.andamanseasurf. VILLA mountain and sea views. Through TANTAWAN com, 089-9732161, surfschool@ October 31, the resort is offering baanandamanseasurf.com) offers a opening rates at B7,450 for a one-bedroom one-on-one lesson (3 hours/day or 1 hour/3 villa and B11,700 for a three-bedroom villa, days) for B2,800, or, if you’re hoping to including butler service, free Wi-Fi, and free turn pro, you can try the one-week package transport to Kamala beach. (B9,500), which includes lessons, a room and airport transfers.

PHUKET

Play Time Phuket just got even more kid friendly with the opening of The Kids Club (2nd Floor, The Promenade Mall Patong, 70/1 Bangla Road, Patong. Open daily 10am-9pm), the island’s biggest indoor play area for children, which takes up the whole of the Promenade Mall’s second floor. Equipped with slides, climbing frames and ball pits, the playground is good for kids of all ages who can enjoy activities like cooking workshops, operated by a cupcake franchise Joop Joop. There’s also a magic shop housing the magician KoKo The Clown, a snack bar and a parent’s lounge area with Wi-Fi. Tickets are B50 per hour for adults and B150 for children or you can get day tickets at B80 per day for adults and B300 for children. For details, visit www.thekidsclubphuket.com or call 076-341-310.

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 9

NEWS_ANDAMAN_JUNE_2014_1_NEW.indd 9

5/26/14 4:08 PM


Y

where NEWS LA FETE

U SUKHUMVIT

CAPITAL

AFFAIRS

Grand openings, hot promotions and special events in Bangkok

U SUKHUMVIT

Gallic Fiesta

Regional Rooms

Organized by the French Embassy and Alliance Française, the annual Franco-Thai cultural festival, La Fete, will return from June 4 to July 6. Now in its tenth year, the festival is one of the biggest cultural events in the calendar and features a host of events and artistic performances ranging from classical music to hip hop and contemporary dance to photography, at various locations in Bangkok. The month-long festival will open with famed string quartet Quatuor Parisii, while other highlights include Silence on Tourne!, a 1930s-inspired B-Boy dance performance by the Pockemon Crew Company, Frontieres, a puppet show between French company Les Rémouleurs and Chiang Mai puppet masters and The Night a hypnotizing in-the-dark show combining magic, dance, juggling, music and video by The 14:20 Company.The festival will finish on July 5 with the Galleries’ Night event, which allows visitors to view exhibitions and meet with artists at a host of Bangkok art galleries until late. For a full programme, visit www.lafete-bangkok. com.

The U Sukhumvit Bangkok (02-6513355, www.uhotelsresorts.com) is the fourth Thai property for the U hotel chain. Consisting of 82 contemporary Thai-style rooms ranging from 28-38 sq meters, its theme takes its inspiration from six different regions in Thailand, from graphic depictions of Pattaya’s Sanctuary of Truth on the wallpaper to the Phi Takhon themed rooms representing the Kingdom’s Northeast. Like other U Hotels, you can select amenities like types of pillow, tea, soap and music prior to your stay, enjoy your room for 24 hours after check-in and have breakfast anytime at anywhere in the hotel. Other facilities include a rooftop swimming pool, gym and free Wi-Fi. Centrally located on Sukhumvit Soi 15, the hotel is close to BTS Asoke and a shuttle tuk tuk is available. Through June 30, it’s offering introductory rates at B1,999 for a superior room (28-32 sq-meters) and B2,499 for a 44-sq-meter deluxe room.

LA FETE

Amazing Discounts Perhaps Thailand’s biggest sales event, this year’s Amazing Thailand Grand Sale will run from June 15 to August 15, featuring up to 80 percent discounts on various products, including Thai handicrafts, electrical appliances, clothing and accessories at leading department stores. Participating hotels, resorts and restaurants will also offer special deals and packages to delight tourists nationwide. For more information, call 1672 or visit www.tourismthailand.com. Plus don’t forget to check out our Navigate section on page 33 to see how you can also claim for VAT refunds.

10 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

NEWS_BANGKOK_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 10

5/26/14 4:12 PM


NEWS where Y

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 11

NEWS_BANGKOK_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 11

5/26/14 4:12 PM


where NEWS NIKON BABY

Y

PHI TA KHON FESTIVAL

UPCOUNTRY NEWS New venues, special deals and events from Chiang Mai and beyond.

CHAIYAPHUM

SUMMIT GREEN VALLY CHIANG MAI

LOEI

SA KAEO

The annual ghost festival held in Loei’s Dan Sai District is one of Thailand’s most picturesque events. Taking place on June 27-29, the Phi Ta Khon festival includes a photogenic parade of young men wearing bells, colorfully decorated masks and bright outfits waving wooden phalluses to represent ghosts woken by villagers celebrating the return of Buddha in a former life from a long journey. The festival also pays respect to local spirits who protect the village and asks for a prosperous farming season. Loei is 540km or about eight hours’ drive from Bangkok while the nearest airport and train station are in Udon Thani province. Bus and car rental services from Udon Thani to Loei are available. In terms of accommodation, there’s really only one high-end option in the area, the Phunacome Resort (www.phunacomeresort.com). More information on the festival at TAT Loei, 042-812-812.

The rainy season is when Thailand’s When the rains start to hit the Isaan MYANMAR forests are at their freshest and greenest, plateau, it’s time to pack your bags and VIETNAM and it’s also when many different species trek out to Pa Hin Ngam and Sai Thong of butterfly reach the peak of national parks in Chaiyaphum LAOS their numbers. So from to witness the fields of now until August 30, blooming krajiew Chiang Mai Sa Kaeo is hoping to flowers. Also known lure eco-tourists as the Siamese Loei to Pang Sida tulip, the beautiful National Park pink flowers only Chaiyaphum with the promise blossom between of butterfly June and August watching. This each year. The Bangkok year’s opening full bloom doesn’t Sa Kaeo event will be held take place at the on June 28, featuring same time at both activities like mountain parks, though. It starts biking races, a photo at Pa Hin Ngam in June, ANDAMAN contest and parades. SEA The rainy then moves to Sai Thong in Julyseason is also a great time to visit the August. Chaiyaphum is about 330km OF five hours’ drive from Bangkok. famous Pang Sida waterfall. Contact TAT GULF or about SIAM Nakhon Nayok, 037-312-282, 037-312There is a bus service (a 5.5-hour 284, www.tourismthailand.org or visit journey) from Bangkok’s northern bus tinyurl.com/m8rs265 terminal to Chaiyaphum daily.

Ghostly Event

Butterfly Effects

CHAIYAPHUM

Floral Feast

SOUTH CHINA SEA

12 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

MALAYSIA UPCOUNTRY_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 12

5/26/14 5:33 PM


NEWS where Y

THE SIMPLY ROOM

BUTTERFLIES AT PANG SIDA NATIONAL PARK

CHIANG MAI

CHIANG MAI

Fairway Festival

Simple Stay

Grab your golf clubs and head north to make the most of the ongoing Chiang Mai Golf Festival (www. chiangmaigolffestival.org) which lasts through June 30. You can take advantage of a special green fee of B1,000 at eight participating golf courses in Chiang Mai and Lamphun: Chiang Mai Highlands, Mae Jo, Star Dome, Summit Green Valley, The Royal Chiang Mai, Alpine, Gold Canyon and Chiang Mai Inthanon. If you pay out B1,500 you can participate in tournaments, which take place every Saturday through June 28, with the price covering green fee, caddy and dinner. In more good news, Bangkok Airways (1771, www.bangkokair.com) is offering an extra 10kg baggage allowance (in addition to the normal 20kg at check-in) for passengers who participate in the festival on its Bangkok and Chiang Mai route. The airline offers seven flights daily on the route at fares starting from about B2,880 for a round-trip.

For a homey hotel in central Chiang Mai, you might want to check out the newly opened The Simply Room (053-278489, www.tinyurl.com/npejujq), located 5km from the airport, near Wat Chedi Luang. A short walk from Sam Kasat Sunday night market and Wualai walking street, the boutique accommodation offers ten rooms, each with a different vintage design, from romantic pastel tones to retro industrial style. Through September 30, rates are just B900 for a 16-sq-meter room and B1,400 for a 20-sq-meter room, including breakfast, which varies each day from Westernstyle omelet to local delicacies like kai kata (seasoned fried eggs in a pan) and sticky rice with pork. Bicycles are also available for rent.

CHIANG MAI ART

SUMMIT GREEN VALLY CHIANG MAI

The elegant colonial-style boutique resort 137 Pillars House (053-247-788, www137pillarhouse.com) is currently hosting an oil painting exhibition titled “Beauty Revealed” by well-respected Thai artist Ajarn Sontorn Suwanhem through June 30. The exhibition is open for viewing from 9am-10pm daily. H Gallery (Near the Four Seasons Resort, 085-021-5508, www.hgallerybkk.com) is hosting an exhibition of Isaan life-inspired paintings by Thai artist Mitree Parahom, who is originally from the Northeastern province of Si Saket. Depicting an upcountry way of life, the exhibition features portrayals of the local farmers and their relationship with the land through colorful paintings. Through June 28. Open for viewing on Thursday, Friday and Sunday from 11am to 5pm.

ISAAN LIFE-INSPIRED ART BY MITREE PARAHOM

Another gallery you should visit is Gallery Seescape (086-114-2845, tinyurl.com/ kc7udzu) on Nimmanhemin Road Soi 17, which is showcasing The Dialog of an Unsound Mind, depicting abstract emotional experiences, by Voraprada V. through June 14. BUTTERFLY AT PANG SIDA NATIONAL PARK

THE DIALOG OF AN UNSOUND MIND

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 13

UPCOUNTRY_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 13

5/26/14 5:33 PM


Y

where NEWS

GULF GOSSIP The latest travel-related news from Hua Hin, Pattaya and Koh Samui

THE ROCK HUA HIN

SANTIBURI SAMUI COUNTRY CLUB

THE ROCK HUA HIN

MYANMAR KOH SAMUI

Golf Getaway

HUA HIN

VIETNAM

Beach Holiday LAOS

The annual Samui Queen’s Cup Golf Located on Hua Hin Soi 87 near Khao Tournament will return on June 12-15 at Takiab, the beachfront boutique resort Santiburi Samui Country Club (077-421The Rock Hua Hin Resort and Spa 702, www.santiburi-hotel.de). Part of the (032-537-100, www.therockhuahin.com) Asian Tour, this year’s tournament will see underwent a renovation and reopened late leading international and local golfers last year with a contemporary Thai design such as Thaworn Wiratchant, in its 22 rooms. Facilities include Mardan Mamat, Lam an infinity edge pool on the Chih Bing and Prom second floor and plenty Bangkok Meesawat comof food and drink oppeting at the tions, from the Thai breathtaking 18flavors of the Sea Hua Hin hole golf course. Shell restaurant ANDAMAN Sponsored to drinks with a SEA by Bangkok view at the Moon GULF OF Airways, prizes Deck pool bar. The Samui SIAM are worth a total resort offers five of US$300,000. room types ranging It’s free to come from a 52-sq-meter along and enjoy the gala deluxe room to a SOUTH event but, if you really 110-sq-meter Qualia JaCHINA want to be close to the accuzzi pool villa. RatesSEA in June tion, room rates at Santiburi start start from B3,200 per night and it’s MALAYSIA from B9,250 for a 80-sq-meter duplex from B12,000 for a Jacuzzi pool villa. suite.

14 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

GULF_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 14

W RETREAT KOH SAMUI

KOH SAMUI

THAILAND

Movie on the Beach Bangkok The stylish W Retreat Koh Samui (077915-999, www.wretreatkohsamui.com) has recently launched a Monday movie night at its beachfront SIP Bar for anyone on the island looking to catch a good film while kicking back on a bean bag with a cocktail in hand. Movies screen at 8pm Samui every Monday and range from Hollywood hits to classics and underground movies. Phang Nga They also offer a buy-one-get-one-free deal for wine and Champagne after Phuket the screening, that runs until midnight so you can stay and give an honest review.

INDONESIA

5/26/14 5:38 PM


NEWS where Y Y HUA HIN

TOP THREE ATTRACTIONS CICADA MARKET

HUA HIN HILLS VINEYARD

This slightly bohemian market has become one of Hua Hin’s most popular attractions, thanks to its eclectic selection of unique handicrafts and chilled-out al fresco vibe. From furniture to fashion, as well as some quirky Hua Hin souvenirs, you can find it all here, plus a good range of original local art. Even just sitting and snacking at the open-air food court under the illuminated trees is a pleasurable experience. The market also sees live music, plays and stand-up comedians take to the open-air stage.

Nestled among a series of dramatic hills around 45km from Hua Hin’s city center, this is one of Thailand’s most successful vineyards. They offer complimentary guided tours at 1pm and 4pm daily so you can come and learn about new latitude wine making, enjoy the beautiful scenery and sample their award-winning wines. You can explore the vineyard by various means, from elephant riding to mountain biking. Alternatively just chill out at The Sala Wine Bar and Bistro, which offers dishes like spicy Australian beef salad and cold cuts. A wine pairing menu is also available.

Cicada, Suan Sri Park, NhongkaeKhao Takieb Road. Open Fri-Sat at 4-11pm and Sunday at 4-10pm, 032-536-606, www.cicadamarket.net

204 Moo 9, Baan Khork Chang Patana Nong Plup, 081-701-0222, www.huahinhills.com

BLACK MOUNTAIN WATER PARK If you want an alternative way of cooling off then take a 20-minute drive up into the hills behind Hua Hin to this relatively new water park. There you can have fun on the numerous slides and chutes, wallow in the wave pool or enjoy the infinity pool overlooking the lake. Fast food snacks like burgers, hot dogs and ice cream are available. Tickets are B600 for adults and B300 for children aged 5-12. The park is also open on Saturday evenings from 6-9pm. Tickets are B300 for adults and B150 for children. 1 Moo 2 Hua Hin, Open daily, 10am –5pm, 032-618-444. www.blackmountainwaterpark. com

HUA HIN HILLS VINEYARD

CICADA

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 15

GULF_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 15

5/26/14 5:38 PM


ThewhereGuide JUNE 2014 | BANGKOK

ART

Reflections/Protection This exhibition by Dale Konstanz, author of Thai Taxi Talismans, displays photographs of the different sacred objects Bangkok taxi drivers put on their dashboardsturned-altars, reflecting not only their own beliefs, but those of wider Thai society. Through June 29. Kathmandu Photo Gallery, 87 Pan Rd., 02-234-6700. XI11

DINING..........................................................19-21 ARTS....................................................................22 ATTRACTIONS...............................................23

Y

NIGHTLIFE.................................................. 22-23 HEALTH + WELLNESS...........................26-27 SHOPS + SERVICES.................................28-29

NAVIGATE........................................................ 30 MAPS.............................................................31-34

Note that the reference at the end of the listings (WS24, ZD3, etc.) applies to the coordinates on the individual maps on pages 33-36. Listings without coordinates indicate locations not within the maps.

16 W H E R E T H A ILAND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

The guide_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 16

5/26/14 5:52 PM


BANGKOK

DINING

Y

Siam Wisdom Set in a traditional-looking house, the recently opened Siam Wisdom, by local celebrity Chef Chumpol Jangprai, serves up authentic Thai dishes created from high-quality local produce, such as kapi (shrimp paste) from Klong Khon, palm sugar from Petchaburi or sturgeon’s roe from the Royal Projects. There’s an a la carte menu for lunch, while dinner is reserved for set menus, which start from B1,800. One of the stand-out dishes is the gaeng kua poo (Southern-style curry with crab and betel leaf, B480) while there are also rarer options like the gaeng buan (herbal soup with pork intestines) and sai krok pla nam (ancient pork sausage, B290). 66 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-2607811-2. BTS Asoke. ZB4

DOWNTOWN 661 SILOM — Steak. $$$$ The kitchen is headed by local chef Chatin Dienel, who has worked at Michelin-starred restaurants in Australia and London. Upstairs at Meat, you get a modern steakhouse dominated by cow skins and leather furniture. Downstairs, Meet has a Dom Perignon theme and gastro bites. Baan Silom, Silom Road, 02-266-8661. Open Mon-Fri 11:30-1am; Sat-Sun 5pm-1am. www.661silom.com XI11 BAWARCHI—Indian. $$$ This is the flagship branch of a chain of four Indian restaurants that all look to serve up traditional Mughali cuisine like chicken tikka and tandoori lamb chops in a contemporary setting. B/F Intercontinental Hotel, 973 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-0102-3. Open daily 11am-midnight. www.bawarchiindian.com YM18 BLUE ELEPHANT —Thai. $$$$ The flagship branch of the globally-known Thai restaurant brand is housed in a stunning colonial-style mansion, complete with a classic interior, where chef and owner Nooror Somany Steppe and her team serve up royal Thai cuisine. 233 South Sathorn Rd., 02-673-9353. BTS Surasak. Open daily 11:30am2:30pm, 6:30–10:30pm. XI13

Y PICK ISSAYA SIAMESE CLUB — Thai. $$$-

$$$$ Chef Ian Kittichai made his name in New York but returned home with this restaurant, set in a delightful wooden mansion and featuring inventive twists on classic Thai recipes. 4 Soi Sri Aksorn, Chue Pleong Road, 02-672-9040-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 6:30-10:30pm. www.issaya.com

JIM THOMPSON — Thai and Fusion. $$-$$$ This venue sports a modern Thai décor and serves Thai and fusion dishes like poh pia hed thod (spring rolls) and roast duck with kale sauce. The second floor features a lounge area serving cocktails. 149/4-6 Surawong Rd. Open daily 9am-4pm, 5-11pm. www.jimthompson.com XH8

PICK LA SCALA — Italian. $$$$ Embellished with dark wood furniture, Buddha images and stylish lamps, the design is resolutely contemporary and Asian. The subtle, yet finely-tuned, ambiance is the ideal backdrop for the refined Italian cuisine. The Sukhothai, Sathorn Road, 02-344-8888. Open daily noon-3pm, 6:30-10:30pm. XF13

Price guide $ $$ $$$ $$$$

Under B500 B500-900 B900-1,500 B1,500 and up

Price per person, including one drink, appetizer, main course, dessert, charges and tax.

Area guide Downtown covers the Silom, Sathorn and Siam neighborhoods Lower Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Chit Lom to Sukhumvit Soi 19 Upper Sukhumvit covers the area from BTS Asoke to Sukhumvit Soi 53

Y PICK EAT ME — International. $$$$ The décor is a cool yet cozy mélange of industrial, natural and artistic, the kitchen pulls off original combinations, and the cocktails are perfection. 1/6 Phiphat Soi 2, Convent Road, 02-238-0931. Open daily 3pm1am. XG11

Y PICK GAGGAN — Indian. $$$$ After a brief stint at the research facility of El Bulli, Chef Gaggan Anand developed this exciting menu interpreting regional Indian dishes with solid, traditional flavors and some wow-worthy techniques.68/1 Soi Langsuan, 02-652-1700. Open daily 6pmmidnight. YO19

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 17

Dinning_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 17

5/26/14 5:54 PM


Y

BANGKOK

DINING Y PICK LE BEAULIEU — French. $$$$ Chef Herve

Y NEW OPENINGS

Frerard corks up hearty, rustic options like baked morteau sausage served with a rich tomato lentil sauce and terrine de pot au feu alongside bistro classics like bouillabaisse and sole meunière. These simple dishes use high-quality ingredients imported direct from France or making the most of the chef’s involvement with the Royal Projects. G/F, Athénée Office Tower, 63 Wireless Rd., 02168-8220-3. www.le-beulieu.com YN21

LE DU — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Le Du’s intriguing menu offers Asian flavors with modern cooking techniques and mostly seasonal local produce. The wine list is exciting, with bottles sourced only from organic producers or boutique importers. 339/3 Silom Soi 7, 081-562-6464. Open MonFri 11:30am-2:30pm, 6-11pm, Sat 6-11pm. www. ledubkk.com XG11

MAVERICK

Rebel Reboot Formerly focused on molecular food, Maverick (G/F, Ocean Tower ll, Asoke Soi 3. 02-6652772. www.maverickbkk.com. MRT Sukhumvit.) has recently been transformed with the arrival of Jerome H. Lagarde, former executive chef at Michelin-starred restaurant Pourcel Brothers and the famous Betty’s Kitchen in Hong Kong, along with four chefs flown over from France and Singapore. It’s also introduced a new, less avantgarde menu. Taste the dover sole with fava beans, bellota ham and beurre meuniere sauce then dive into the heavenly pan-fried foie gras with eel, avocado, kabayaki sauce and gomasio (sesame salt). Set lunches are also available from B380 for two courses.

Make Me Sway The old town revival continues with the opening of Swayday (Siripong Rd., 084-664-5424), located near the Giant Swing, a chill new spot open daily from 10am-midnight. Already gaining a hot following among local bikers and coffee lovers, the two-story restaurant is decorated in a modern loft style and serves Thai-inter dishes from fettuccine squid ink to tomyam soup. The drinks menu is just as exhaustive taking in draft beers like Singha and signature cocktails, making it a great spot to grab some refreshment during a tour around the Rattanakosin area.

Soulful Vietnamese With a bright and inviting industrial setting, Zouvliet (J-Avenue, Thonglor Soi 13, 02-712-9435. Open daily 11am-11pm), set above dessert spot After You in popular community mall J Avenue, serves up Vietnamese comfort dishes at reasonable prices. One of the partners is Vietnamese and half of the recipes come from her mother, who also works in the kitchen. Besides the classics like guay jub yuan (Vietnamese noodles) and kanom bueng yuan (Vietnamese pancake with shrimps and pork, B220), the must-try dishes include the delicious and flavorful kanom jeen nuea (rice vermicelli with beef and pork blood)—the rice noodles are brought over from Vietnam, as well as the rice paper and fish sauce for seasoning.

SEVEN SEAS RESTAURANT — Seafood/European. $$$ You’ll find a variety of tasty Thai, seafood and Western dishes in a cozy setting with a pleasant outdoor terrace. Recommended dishes include the tomyam soup and steamed pomfret in soy and ginger. Sukhumvit Soi 4, 02-656-7881. Open daily 12:30pm –1:30am. ZC1 THE LOCAL — Thai. $$$-$$$$ Chef and co-owner Can Markawat keeps the focus on authentic local dishes and regional products cooked according to hard-to-find traditional recipes. They’re all served in 100-year-old house. They also run weekly cooking lessons. 32-32/1 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-3360-1. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:30-11:30pm. ZA3

UPPER SUKHUMVIT

Y PICK NAHM — Thai. $$$$ Named Asia’s top

Y PICK APPIA — Italian. $$$ Jarret Wrisley of the

ROCK RESTAURANT AND BAR — Thai. $$ This Asian restaurant offers a menu packed with flavors inspired by places such as Myanmar, India and China, as well as Thailand. 7/1 Paholyothin Soi 9, 082-688-8200. Open Tue-Sun 5pmmidnight.

Y PICK BO.LAN — Thai. $$$$ Chefs Bo and

restaurant, David Thompson’s Nahm serves a fiery, multi-course set menu, which offers plenty of tasty and authentic choices. Metropolitan, 27 South Sathorn Rd., 02-625-3333. Open Mon-Fri noon-2pm, 7-11pm, Sat-Sun 7-11pm. XG13

RUEN URAI — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in an old Thai house decorated with rare Thai crafts, this charming venue offers a polished menu of solid Thai recipes that retain their authentic flavors. Rose Hotel, 118 Surawong Rd., 02-266-8268/72. Open daily noon-11pm. XG8 SENSI — Italian. $$$$ Located in a sizeable retro house down a quiet soi, the sleek Italian restaurant has a relaxed vibe with a communal chef’s table in one corner. There’s lots to see with hands hard at work making bread, pasta and cheese, with some modern techniques thrown in for good measure. Narathiwas Soi 17, Yaek 5, 02117-1618. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-midnight. www. sensibangkok.com XG11 ZUMA — Japanese. $$$ The bar is made from a single, monumental slab of stone and the garden is air-conditioned. It’s all wonderfully glamorous and the salads and sushi are truly high class. G/F, St. Regis Hotel, 159 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-6360002. BTS Ratchadamri. Open Mon-Sat noon3pm, 6pm-10:30pm. YN18

LOWER SUKHUMVIT 11 GALLERY — Thai. $-$$ Set in a charming old wooden home down a bustling little soi, this popular spot serves up traditional Thai dishes in quaint tiffin boxes. 1/34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, opposite Ambassador Hotel, 02-651-2672. BTS Nana. Open daily 10-1am. ZB1 ABOVE ELEVEN — Fusion. $$$$ The twist of this rooftop bar and restaurant, apart from a great city view, is a concept that focuses on Nikkei cuisine: a fusion of Japanese and Peruvian flavors. 32/F, Fraser Suites Sukhumvit, 38/8 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-207-9300. Open daily 6pm-2am. www. aboveeleven.com ZA1

popular Soul Food Mahanakorn teams up with Chef Paolo Vitaletti who is firmly committed to his family food principle: to create wonderful Roman-style pastas. Also, expect a carefully curated wine selection. 20/4 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-261-2056. Open daily 6-11pm. ZC4

Dylan offer a traditional approach to Thai food, presented in a contemporary style and served in a charming house-turned-restaurant. Opt for the Bo.lan balance, a degustation menu that changes to reflect the seasons. 42 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-260-2962. Open Tue-Sun, 6:30pm-midnight. www.bolan.co.th ZD5

Y PICK INDUS — Indian. $$$ An ambient spot

with a beautiful backyard, the kitchen also does a good job serving up much lighter versions of the usual North Indian favorites like biriyani, kebabs and tikkas. 71 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-258-4900, 02-661-5279. Open daily 11:30am-2:30pm, 5:3010:30pm. ZE5

ISAO — Japanese. $$$ Despite the standard izakaya facade, Isao offers something different—Japanese cuisine with American twists, thanks to the chef’s apprenticeship in Chicago. 5 Sukhumvit Soi 31, 02-258-0645/6. Open Mon-Fri 11am-2:30pm, 5:30-10pm, Sat-Sun 11am-10pm. ZC4 L’APPART — French. $$$-$$$$ Imagine a grand Parisian apartment, which means parquet floors, burgundy wallpaper and lots of marble. The food is French cuisine with Thai touches. There’s also a bar with a particular focus on Champagne cocktails. 32/F, Sofitel Bangkok Sukhumvit, 189 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sois 13 and 15), 02-1269999. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.sofitel. com ZB2 LA BOTTEGA DI LUCA — Italian. $$$ A project of love for the well-traveled chef Luca Appino, this deli-cum-restaurant sticks to traditional recipes but stands out thanks to its distinct emphasis on fresh and, when possible, homemade ingredients. Terrace 49, Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-204-1731. Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm, 5pm-midnight; Mon 5:30pm-noon. ZB5

Y PICK MAYA — Indian. $$$ Housed in a

striking cantilevered structure on the roof of the Holiday Inn, this venue offers a choice of classic North Indian dishes, a cigar lounge and a DJ bar. Holiday Inn Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 22, 02-683-4704. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.mayathailand.com ZC4

18 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

Dinning_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 18

5/26/14 5:54 PM


BANGKOK

DINING NEAR EQUAL — Thai. $$-$$$ Set in a quaint house down a lovely leafy street. Upstairs the wood floors and antique pieces make for a delightful spot to enjoy well-balanced Thai dishes; then head downstairs to browse the selection of Thai furniture and handicrafts. 22/2 Sukhumvit Soi 47, 02-258-1564/5. Open daily 11:30am-3pm, 5:309:30pm. ZC5

Y PICK QUINCE — International. $$$ Quince

goes for a casual and rustic ambiance that’s part industrial, part European country home. The kitchen’s focus is all about sustainability, ethical eating and local produce with down-toearth home cooking and a menu that changes frequently. Sukhumvit Soi 45, 02-662-4478. Open daily 6-10pm. www.quincebangkok.com

ZC5

SMITH — International. $$$$ Set in a former furniture warehouse, it’s decked out in an elegant industrial theme, with walls lined with butcher’s tools. Chef Peter Pitakwong’s menu focuses on two things: locally-sourced ingredients and noseto-tail cooking. 1/8 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-2610515. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. ZC5

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI LITTLE BEAST — International. $$-$$$ Owned by a group of best friends who met in New York, this stylish gastro bar serves French and New American cuisine. Enjoy the popular 15hour lamb shoulder and creative cocktails in a 1920s-inspired space. 44/9-10 Thonglor Soi 13, 02-185-2670. Open Tue-Sun 5:30pm-1am. ZB5

WATER LIBRARY — International. $$$$ A restaurant that serves a maximum of ten diners per night, with a 12-course set menu using the best ingredients prepared in front of you by an army of chefs. It’s very sophisticated, very sexy and while quite expensive, very memorable. There’s also a neighboring wine bar. Grass, Thonglor Soi 12, 02-714-9292/-3. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-1am. ZB6

Y

Y SPOTLIGHT

RIVERSIDE CHON — Thai. $$$$ Set in a beautiful Thai teak house overlooking the Chao Phraya River, Chon (“spoon” in Thai) has made a name for itself thanks to its authentic Thai food.The Siam Hotel, 3/2 Khao Rd., Dusit, 02-206-6999. Free shuttle boat from Central Pier. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.thesiamhotel.com. SALA RATTANAKOSIN — Thai/Western. $$$ This stylish riverside venue is where to indulge in Western and Thai creations while you feast your eyes on Wat Arun. Soi Ta Tien, Maharat Road, 02-622-1388. Tha Tien Pier. Open daily 7am-10pm. www.salarattanakosin.com. WP23 STEVE CAFÉ & CUISINE — Thai. $$ Located next to Thewet pier, Steve’s offers river views, a charming 60-year old wooden house, and spicy Southern dishes. 68 Soi Sri Ayuthaya 21 (Wat Devarajkoonchon), Sri Ayuthaya Road, 02-281-0915. Open 11:30am-11pm. www. stevecafeandcuisine.com

Siam Twist

The molecular-inspired Thai restaurant Sra Bua, sister of the Michelin starred Kinn Kinn in Copenhagen has recently unveiled an exciting new tasting menu (B4,900 for 10 courses with wine pairing). It boasts a blend of full flavors, as in the succulent nuea toon pad cha (beef braised in oyster sauce and served with rice) alongside their reputation for modern cuisine, with dishes like the appetizer satay gai, in which the sauce is served cold, or the frozen red curry with crab. They have also introduced a new lounge area, where you can start your meal with some appetizers, matched with a craft beer made especially for Sra Bua by Mikkeller, before you sit down at your table by the lotus pond. Siam Kempinski Hotel Bangkok, 991/9 Rama 1 Rd., 02-162-9000. BTS Siam. YL17

Y PICK OPPOSITE MESS HALL — International.

$$$ Chef Jess Barnes draws on both Mediterranean and Asian influences and focuses on local produce. The fuss-free nature of the place means dishes are often best eaten with your fingers and enjoyed with the homemade cocktails. 27/1 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6330. Open TueSun 7pm-midnight. ZC5

Y PICK PASTE — Thai. $$$ Jason Bailey takes his

inspiration from Thai royal cuisine. Everything here is homemade from locally-sourced ingredients completed with inventive techniques and artful presentation. 120/6 Sukhumvit Soi 49, 02-392-4313. Open Wed-Sun noon-2:30pm, Tue-Sun 6pm-midnight. www.pastebangkok.com

ZA5

PHUKET TOWN — Thai. $-$$ Phuket Town whips up solidly traditional Southern-style dishes like kanom jeen namya poo (rice noodle with crab curry) and pad sataw goong (stir-fried sataw beans with shrimp) in a bright and quirky setting that features plenty of Sino-Portuguese touches. Corner of Thonglor Soi 6, 02-714-9402. Open daily 10:30am-10:30pm. ZC6

Y PICK SUPANNIGA EATING ROOM — Thai.

$$ Set in a three-story shophouse, this Thai restaurant offers a cozy yet chic décor. The menu is based on what the owner’s grandmom used to cook—Thai food that borrows both from her hometown of Trat, and where the family now lives, Khon Kaen. 160/11 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (between Thonglor Soi 6 and 8). Open Tue-Sun 11:30am-11:30pm. ZC6

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 19

Dinning_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 19

5/26/14 5:54 PM


BANGKOK

ART+ ATTRACTIONS ART GALLERIES 100 TONSON GALLERY — On top of its prime location, this gallery doesn’t shy away from political topics and attracts leading artists. 100 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, 02-684-1527. BTS Chit Lom. Open Thu-Sun 11am-7pm. www.100tonsongallery.com YN20 BANGKOK ART & CULTURE CENTRE — The city’s center for contemporary art features regular exhibitions, seminars and art-related shops in its impressive 11-story structure. 939 Rama I Rd., Pathumwan, 02-214-6630-1. BTS National Stadium. Open Tue-Sun 10am9pm. www.bacc.or.th YM16 H GALLERY — Set in a beautiful late 19th century building, H Gallery offers a program of exhibitions representing emerging contemporary Asian artists. 201 Sathorn Soi 12, 081-310-4428. BTS Surasak. Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm. www.hgallerybkk.com XH11 KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY — A four-floor gallery, which includes a speciality book store, focused on promoting the work of established and up-and-coming local photographers. 87 Soi Pan, Silom Road, 02-234-6700. Open TueSun 11am-7pm. www.kathmandu-bkk.com XI11

KATHMANDU PHOTO GALLERY

NATIONAL GALLERY — Housing traditional and contemporary Thai art, the gallery displays works by Thai artists from the 17th century on. It’s looking its age but features some interesting shows. 4 Chao Fah Rd., 02-2822639-40. Open Wed-Sun 9am-4pm. www. national-gallery.go.th WQ27 SERINDIA GALLERY — Run by the owner of a publishing company and housed in a colonial style former home, this beautiful gallery has regularly rotating exhibitions. O.P. Garden, Charoen Krung Soi 36, Charoenkrung Road, 02-238-6410. Open Tue-Sun 11am-8pm. www.serindiagallery.com XJ9 SILOM GALLERIA — This large mall houses a range of modern galleries. Highlights include Tang Contemporary Art, covering modern Chinese art; and Thavibu Gallery, featuring Thai, Vietnamese and Burmese artists. 919/1 Silom Soi 19, 02-266-5454. Mall is open daily 10am-8pm. XI10 SOMBAT PERMPOON GALLERY — Both a shop and a gallery, this space stocks more than 10,000 fine and contemporary Thai artworks. 12 Sukhumvit Soi 1, 02-254-6040. Open daily 9am-8pm. BTS Phloen Chit. www. sombatpermpoongallery.com YL21

THAILAND CREATIVE & DESIGN CENTER (TCDC) — Here, temporary exhibitions covering art, design and fashion are specifically viewed from a creative and commercial standpoint. 6/F, The Emporium, 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-664-8488. BTS Phrom Phong. Open Tue-Sun 10:30am-9pm. www. tcdc.or.th ZC4

Y ATTRACTIONS

THE QUEEN’S GALLERY — The focus of this gallery is often on royal and religious themes. 101 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-281-5360/1. Open Thu-Tue 10am-7pm. WS27 WHITESPACE GALLERY — Curated by talented contemporary Thai artist Maitree Siriboon, this gallery is a platform for young artists with more of an experimental, avant-garde leaning. 1 Sala Daeng Soi 1, 02-235-2500. MRT Lumphini. Open Wed-Sun noon-6pm. XF12

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM

MUSEUMS JIM THOMPSON HOUSE — The former home of CIA agent and savior of Thai silk Jim Thompson is a beautifully preserved complex of six traditional Thai-style houses brought here from all over the country, containing his art and antique collection of sculptures, paintings and porcelain. There is also an exhibition space, restaurant and shop. 6/1 Soi Kasemsan 2, Rama 1 Road, 02-216-7368. BTS National Stadium. Open daily 9am-5pm. B100. www. jimthompsonhouse.com YM15 MUSEUM OF CONTEMPORARY ART — A private museum funded by a telcom tycoon, this is Thailand’s first major permanent modern art collection. Situated on the outskirts of town, MOCA’s works are mostly post-1990s, and are dominated by realist and surrealist depictions of rural life, religious Buddhist scenes and mythological motifs. Bejajinda Building, Wiphawadi-Rangsit Road, 02-953-1005/7. Open Mon-Sat 10am-6pm (last entry 5:15pm). www.mocabangkok.com MUSEUM SIAM — This completely restored colonial-style building is now an innovative, technology-driven museum that takes you on a journey through the history of Siam via an array of multimedia presentations and interactive panels. 4 Sanamchai Rd., 02-2252777. Open Tue-Sun 10am-6pm. B300. www. museumsiam.com WQ23 NATIONAL MUSEUM — Formerly the “second king’s” palace, this gorgeous, if run down, property houses some of the most impressive architecture, art and antiques in the country. Na Phrathat Road, 02-215-8173. Open WedSun 9am-4pm. B50. www.nationalmuseums. finearts.go.th WQ27 ROYAL BARGE MUSEUM — Eight of the over 50 barges that make up the royal processions are displayed here. The must-see is the Suphannahong, or Golden Swan, with its huge, golden figurehead prow. 80/1 Arun Amarin Rd., Pinklao Bridge Pier, Thonburi, 02-4240004. Open daily 9am-5pm. Admission: B30. WP27

MATTHEW GOULDING

Y

VIMANMEK

THREE LESSER-KNOWN MUSEUMS WORTH VISITING VIMANMEK With 12 separate museums in Vimanmek Palace, you can easily spend a whole day here. The compound houses the royal museums of photography, textiles and silk, clocks, and more. The old black and white pictures of the royal family are particularly interesting but it is the gorgeous teak buildings that are the real stars. Strict dress code (see their website for details). Ratchawithi Rd., 02-628-6300/9. www.vimanmek.com. Open daily 9:30am4pm. Admission B100.

ERAWAN MUSEUM It owes its name to a huge, three-headed elephant statue, taken from Hindu mythology, Airavata (also known as Erawan), which you can actually climb inside. The museum houses a collection of Thai antiques and artifacts such as Benjarong ceramics, and Chakri dynasty tea sets. Put in another B50 and gain access to the beautiful tropical garden. Bangna-Trad Rd., 02-371-3135. www. erawan-museum.com. Open daily 8am-5pm. Admission B150 for adults, B50 for children

BANGKOKIAN MUSEUM Made up of four wooden houses built in 1937, the museum offers a fascinating insight into the lifestyle of an upper-class Bangkokian family. Featuring elegant furniture and ornaments from the early Rattanakosin era and the reign of King Rama V, the different buildings are a charming space to spend a few hours and enjoy the river breeze in the well-kept gardens.Free entry. Charoenkrung 43 Road, 02-233-7027. Open Wed-Sun 10am–4pm

20 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

Art_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 20

5/26/14 5:56 PM


BANGKOK

ART+ ATTRACTIONS SUAN PAKKAD PALACE — This former royal household features eight Thai-style houses that showcase sculptures, furniture and traditional instruments from the Rama V period along with prehistoric relics. Sri Ayudhya Road, 02-2461775/6 ext 229. BTS Phaya Thai. Open daily 9am-4pm. B100. www.suanpakkad.com

Y

Y SPOTLIGHT

CULTURAL ATTRACTIONS GRAND PALACE / WAT PHRA KAEO — One of the best known and most stunning landmarks in the city, the compound is home to a collection of royal palaces, which blend European and Thai architecture. Situated in the compound of the Grand Palace is Wat Phra Kaeo, home to Thailand’s most revered religious icon: the Emerald Buddha, carved from solid jade. Also, don’t miss the exquisite mural wall paintings found lining the compound walls. Na Phra Lan Road, Tha Chang Pier. Open daily 8:30am-3:30pm. Free English tours at 10am, 10:30am, 1:30pm and 2pm. B400. WQ25

KidZania This huge kid-centric replica city gives children aged 4-14 the chance to explore a wide variety of different career paths. In fact, there are over 80 different professions to experience, from airline pilots and fire fighters to vets and engineers. With a team of experienced guides on hand to look after your children it also gives the adults some time to relax and maybe even do a spot of shopping in the mall it sits within. 5/F Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road, 02-683-1888. BTS Siam. Open Mon-Fri 10am-5pm. Sat-Sun 10am-3pm, 4-9pm. B850 for children, B480 adults. YM17

GRAND PALACE / WAT PHRA KAEO

QUEEN SIRIKIT MUSEUM OF TEXTILES — This museum tells the story of how HM Queen Sirikit has helped turn Thai silk from a simple local handicraft into a key export and an icon of Thailand. Highlights include the Queen’s personal dresses and ornate costumes by leading international designers.Ratsadakornbhibhathana Building, The Grand Palace, Na Phra Lan Road, 02-225-9420, Tha Chang Pier. Open daily 9am-4:30pm. B150. WQ25 RATTANAKOSIN EXHIBITION HALL — This converted 1930s-era building is now an exhibition space featuring interactive presentations depicting life in Thailand during the current Rattanakosin Era. The cafe on the top floor also has a nice view of the old town. 100 Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd., 02-261-0044. Open Tue-Sun 10am-7pm. Adults B100, children under 120cm free. www. nitasrattanakosin.com. WR26 WAT ARUN (TEMPLE OF DAWN) — On the river’s edge, the 76-meter-tall prang (Khmerstyle tower) is decorated with millions of tiny seashells and Chinese porcelain. Arun means “morning” and the temple is best viewed at dawn or sunset from the opposite bank. Arunamarin Road, Wat Arun Pier. Open daily 8:30am-5pm. WP22 WAT PHO — Famous as both the home of the 46-meter-long reclining Buddha and as a center of traditional Thai massage, it even offers courses to learn for yourself. Sanamchai Road, Phra Nakhon. 02-225-4771, Tha Thien Pier. Open daily 8am-6pm. B100. www.watpomassage.com WQ24

WAT TRAIMIT WITTAYARAM — Home to the world’s largest golden Buddha image, this white marble temple also houses the informative Yaowarat Chinatown Heritage Center. Near Odeon Circle, Soi Charoen Krung 37. Open Tue-Sun 8am-5pm.

ATTRACTIONS ART IN PARADISE BANGKOK — Created by 13 Korean artists, the art exhibited at the museum is presented in a 3D trompe l’oeils, allowing viewers to complete the various dramatic scenarios by posing for photos. 4/F, The Esplanade Mall, 99 Ratchadapisek Rd., 02-660-9130. MRT Thailand Cultural Center. Open daily 10am-10pm (last entry 9pm). B300. www.facebook.com/artinparadisebangkok FLOW HOUSE — Flow House offers the chance to go surfing in the city thanks to a special machine that offers a similar experience to riding a real wave. It also features a bar, restaurant and shop specializing in water sports gear. Lessons available, prices cover board hire, showers and towels. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-108-5210. Open Sun-Thu 8am-11pm; Fri-Sat 8am-midnight. From B550 per hour. www.flowhousebangkok.com MADAME TUSSAUDS — The famous wax work museum has made it to Bangkok and features a star-studded line up of incredibly life-like movie stars, politicians and sports figures drawn from all over the world. 6/F, Siam Discovery, 989 Rama I Rd., 02-658-0060. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am-9pm. Tickets B800 adults, B600 children over 5. www.madametussauds.com/ bangkok YM16

SIAM OCEAN WORLD — Southeast Asia’s largest aquarium features more than 30,000 marine creatures and 400 aquatic species. Highlights include the underwater tunnel and the glass bottom boat tour. Siam Paragon, Rama 1 Road, 02-687-2000. BTS Siam. Open daily 10am10pm. B900 for adults, B700 for children. YM17

KIDS FUNARIUM — This giant indoor soft play area provides painting, crafts, bike riding, roller blading and cooking as well as regular shows and two large play areas. 111/1 Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-6656555. Open daily Mon-Thu 9am-7pm, Fri-Sun 8:30am-8:30pm. B180-300 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. www.funarium.co.th KIDZOONA — Split into two main sections, Molly’s Gateway is a big arcade, while Kidzoona offers giant inflatables, a ball pit and the chance for children to dress up as builders, firemen, chefs and more. 5/F, Gateway Mall Ekkamai, 02-1082650/-52. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 10am-9pm. B180-B330 for kids and B90 for adults. Socks required. ZD7 PLAYTIME — Dominated by a large play-gym area. There’s also a separate space for toddlers, a sandpit, ice skating rink, climbing wall, electric car track and a cafe upstairs. 3-4/F, Parklane Ekkamai, 02-382-0077. Open Mon-Thu 9am6pm, Fri-Sun 9am-7:30pm. B210-350 for kids and B110 for adults. www.playtime.co.th ZC7

JUNE I W HERE THA ILA N D 21

Art_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 21

5/26/14 5:57 PM


Y

BANGKOK

NIGHTLIFE DOWNTOWN AXIS & SPIN — Split over the two top floors of this centrally located hotel, Axis & Spin offers up striking panoramic views and combines vintage decoration with modern design. Interesting cocktails, special nights and DJs, too. 38-39/F, The Continent Hotel, 413 Sukhumvit Rd. (between Sukhumvit Soi 21-23), 02-686-7000. Open daily 6pm-1am. http://tinyurl.com/ntak4oe ZC3 CLOUD 47 —The bar on the rooftop of the United Centre in the heart of Silom offers drinks at affordable prices in an airy setting. With its menu of pub snacks and white sofas, the place just asks for you to order drinks to share, from a draught beer to a tower of Absolut vodka. 47/F, United Center, Silom Rd. 091-889-9600. BTS Sala Daeng. Open Mon-Sat 5pm-midnight. XG10 FALABELLA — Located next to the city’s most exclusive sports club, Fallabella is popular with young affluent Thai professionals and celebrities. With a fun but sophisticated vibe there’s a choice between indoor and outdoor seating and a regular live band performing chill jazz and Thai-English songs. The restaurant serves up Italian dishes while the two-story Monkey Bar offers a good selection of cocktails. Royal Bangkok Sports Club, 100 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-252-5131. www. falabellabangkok.com YO18 HORIZONS — The final element of “Heaven,” a complex of restaurants that crowns the Zen Department Store, Horizons is a tapas bar which combines fusion cuisine, stunning views and great cocktails influenced by molecular techniques.19/F, Zen Department Store, Rama 1 Road, 02-101-0900. Open daily 5pm-1am. www. horizonsbangkok.com. YL18

Y SPOTLIGHT

Y PICK HYDE & SEEK — Elevated pub grub, one

APOTEKA — Features a 19th-century apothecary-inspired décor and a cocktail list featuring “antidotes” like Penicilin and Mr. Hyde. Regular live bands with a blues leaning. 33/28 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 090-626-7655. Open Mon-Thu 5pm-1am; Fri-Sat 5pm-2am; Sun 3pm-midnight. ZA1

KU DE TA­— This sophisticated setting offers city views and a host of outlets: an intriguing cocktail list at KU Bar; an Aztec temple-theme at The Club; a contemporary Japanese tavern at Izakaya; while Signature serves up modern Asian fine-dining. 39-40/F, Sathorn Square Building, 98 North Sathorn Rd., 02-108-2005. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-midnight. www.kudeta.com XH12

GRAMERCY PARK — Taking its inspiration from a New York park of the same name, it features lots of bright furniture in a garden vibe, plus graffiti by local artists. The place serves up ceviche, sushi and sashimi and refreshing cocktails. 35/F, Fraser Suites, Sukhumvit Soi 11, 083-1111. Open daily 6pm-2am. ZA1

LONG TABLE — One of the funkiest spots around thanks to its striking opulence: from the glittering entrance lights to the 24-meter dining table and even a swimming pool. But they all play second fiddle to the impressive view of Bangkok’s skyline from the spacious open-air terrace. 25/F, Column Building, 48 Sukhumvit Soi 16, 02-302-2557-9. Open daily 5pm-2am. www.longtablebangkok.com ZD3

Y PICK MAGGIE CHOO’S — Quirky styling

and surreal concepts like busts of Queen Victoria and a real-life noodle shop entrance help portray the story of a post-war Chinese lady, Maggie Choo, who opened a secret “speakeasy” bar in an old trading post’s bank vault. 320 Silom Rd., next to Novotel Fenix Silom, 02-635-6055. Open daily 7pm-2am. www.facebook.com/maggiechoos XJ10

MOON BAR — This sky-high open-air rooftop bar offers a panoramic view of the city, with telescopes on hand to provide close up views. Great for sunsets—arrive early to get one of the more comfortable seats. 61/F, Banyan Tree, 21/100 South Sathorn Rd., 02-679-1200. Open daily 5pm-1am. XF13 PARK SOCIETY — For a real breath of fresh air and a park view, head up to the top floor of this trendy hotel. Inside is fine dining while the rooftop is all about potent cocktails, lounge tunes and a great view. 29/F, Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 North Sathorn Rd., 02-6240000. Open daily 5pm-1am. www.tinyurl.com/ q7ucfa8 XF2

Y PICK SCARLETT — Perched on Pullman

The Kiwi Bangkok Definitely a top spot to catch all the upcoming World Cup action, The Kiwi Pub is conveniently located on Sukhumvit Soi 8, a short walk from BTS Nana. A popular sports bar among Bangkok’s expats, it houses 14 flat screens showing various sports from rugby and football to cricket. The atmosphere is laid back, especially out on the al fresco terrace, yet it also offers an extensive menu of Thai dishes and pub grub like fish & chips and proper burgers. You can also find ciders and imported beers on tap. Happy Hours run from 9am-7pm. Sukhumvit Soi 8, 02-653-3144, www.thekiwibangkok.com

SUKHUMVIT SOI 11

of Bangkok’s best cocktail menus and a décor that conjures up a delightful blend of Victorian drawing room style and NYC sophistication make for a winning combination. Athénée Residence, 65/1 Soi Ruamrudee, 02-168-51523. BTS Phloen Chit. Open daily 11-1am. www. hydeandseek.com YM21

Bangkok Hotel G’s top floor, this popular spot features an al fresco terrace with fantastic views, an extensive and affordable wine list, industrial bistro décor and interesting tapas options. 37/F, Pullman Bangkok Hotel G, 188 Silom Rd., 02-238-1991. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 6pm-1am. www. tinyurl.com/ o3cc6tm. XH10

SKY BAR —One of the very first rooftop bars in the city it recieved an additional boost when it featured heavily in the Hangover II . The view over the low glass barrier surrounding the vertiginous circular bar is truly jaw dropping and not for the faint hearted, the cocktails help give you a head for heights. 63/F, The Dome at Lebua. 1055/42 Silom Rd., 02-624-9555. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.lebua.com XJ10

LEVELS — Decked out with a huge LED chandelier above a circular bar and a bunch of monochrome sofas surrounding a sizeable dance floor, this cavernous venue aims for a rather swanky audio-visual clubbing experience. 6/F, Aloft Hotel, 35 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 082-308-3246. Open daily 9pm-3am. www.levelsclub.com ZA1 NEST — Nest offers a perfect blend of sexy sophistication and chill out chic. Lay back on their super comfy daybeds while you enjoy the open air clubby vibe. Rooftop of LeFenix Hotel, 33/33 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-255-0638/9. Open daily 4pm-2am. www.nestbangkok.com ZA1

Q BAR­— The Soi 11 institution delivers a heady mix of bass lines and international DJs downstairs but their 2nd floor, with a large outdoor patio, means it’s also a great spot to chill out with friends. Out back, Le Derriere serves up absinthe and oysters amidst a 1900s France decor. 34 Sukhumvit Soi 11, 02-2523274. Open daily 8pm-1am. www.qbarbangkok.com ZA1

THONGLOR/EKKAMAI BADMOTEL — This formerly abandoned threestory building has been repainted all in white and offers a glasshouse style ground floor, a sizable courtyard and a low-key rooftop. They also regularly play host to gigs and art shows making it popular with Bangkok’s painfully hip. Next to J-Avenue, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-712-7288. Open daily 5pm1am. www.facebook.com/badmotel ZA6

Y PICK IRON FAIRIES — Like no other bar

in Bangkok, it actually looks more like a Dickensian factory, thanks to the crumbling brick walls and scattering of ancient, industrial machinery that by day is used to make fairies. Yes, fairies. A great live band makes this place even more special. 394 Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-714-8875. BTS Thong Lo. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www.theironfairies.com ZB6

MELLOW — Mellow has proved a huge hit with young, moneyed locals, attracted by the warm, wood-heavy décor with its beams and brick walls, friendly staff, comfort food and decent cocktails. 1/F, Penny’s Balcony, Thonglor Soi 16, 02-382-0064. Open daily 11-1am. ZA6

22 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

Nightlife_JUNE_2014.indd 22

5/26/14 6:02 PM


BANGKOK

NIGHTLIFE MIKKELER — Founded by the renowned ‘gypsy’ microbrewer from Denmark, this venue serves up a range of their unique and often limited edition craft beers in a modern-meets-rustic house-turned-bar. 26 Ekkamai Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 63 02-381-9891. Open daily 5pm-midnight. www.mikkellerbangkok.com ZB7

Y

Y SPOTLIGHT

MYST — Set on the rooftop of Grass overlooking the bustling street, the real draw of Myst is the impressive selection of creative cocktails like Myst’s signature Marshmallow. Rooftop, Grass Thonglor 12, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 080770-9800. Open Mon-Sat 6pm-2am. www. mystthonglor.com ZB6 OCTAVE — This multi-level rooftop bar and restaurant offers a stylish modern-industrial décor that is accentuated by great views over Sukhumvit from the top deck. 45/F, Marriott Bangkok Sukhumvit, Sukhumvit Soi 57, 02-7970000. Open daily 6pm-1am. www.facebook. com/octavemarriott ZC6 PERFUME — This fragrance-inspired bar serves up molecular cocktails, European fusion food and innovative shisha flavors. The outside zone sees a smattering of low tables and sofas and some rather striking red geometric metal structures for decoration. Ei8ht Thonglor, Sukhumvit Soi 55, 02-714-8071, Open daily 10am-1am. www. facebook.com/PerfumeBarAndRestaurant ZC6 WINE REPUBLIC — They take their vino seriously here, with a wall of bottles and informed staff to talk you through your purchase. The dark spit-and-sawdust interior and breezy outdoor terrace get very busy on weekends. Thonglor Soi 10, Sukhumvit Soi 55 (Thonglor), 02-7147599. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. www. tinyurl. com/nlbxaay ZB6

Raw Bar The latest shophouse in the nightlife hub of Thonglor to undergo a transformation into a chic bar, this new venue has a focus on fresh seafood and wine. With its big steel chains and ropes lying about the wood-dominated décor, the narrow venue feels like the below decks of a ship, albeit one with a seafood bar downstairs and a DJ booth upstairs. There’s a wide selection of fresh oysters and a good range of white and sparkling wines to choose from. The seasonal cocktails, too, are designed to go well with raw food, like the Apple Slice (apple cinnamon rum, sake, pineapple, raspberry and vanilla syrup) and the Red Velvet (tequila, cointreau, mint, pomegranate and lime). 440/9 Thonglor Soi 14, 02713-8681. Open daily 5:30pm-1am. ZA6

Y PICK WTF — A collaboration between an art

curator, a hip hotelier and a photojournalist, WTF is actually a hybrid bar and exhibition space that’s popular with Bangkok’s creative expats and local hipsters. 7 Sukhumvit Soi 51, 02-662-6246. Open Tue-Sun 6pm-1am. www. wtfbangkok.com. ZC5

RIVERSIDE BAMBOO BAR — This venerable spot in this iconic hotel has been around forever but the music in the cosy L-shaped bar remains first rate and the drinks expertly poured. G/F, The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-659-9000. THREE SIXTY — Located inside the odd-looking UFO-like structure at the top of the Millennium Hilton, this bar offers a 360-degree view to die for. Catch a free boat across the river from Central Pier and head up to the 32nd floor to enjoy a glass of wine and some easylistening jazz. 32/F, Millennium Hilton, 123 Chareonnakorn Rd., 02-442-2000. Open daily 5pm-1am. http://tinyurl.com/6qh8kpo VIVA & AVIV — Fitting for its riverside location, this venue has a rustic-yet-relaxed nauticallyinspired theme. Soak up the river view and enjoy inventive, well-made cocktails and bistro-style food. River City, 23 Yota Rd., 02-639-6305. Si Phaya Pier. Open daily 11am-midnight. www. vivaaviv.com

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 23

Nightlife_JUNE_2014.indd 23

5/26/14 6:02 PM


Y

GUIDE TO

SUKHUMVIT 11 ADVERTORIAL

NIGHT CLUB A

LATE NIGHT B LEVELS LATE (V LATE) 082 308 3246 www.facebook.com/levelslate

The newest addition to the Sukhumvit Soi 11 night life scene, Levels Late ensures you can keep the party going. Also known as V-Late, the club hosts Bangkok’s leading DJs, playing commercial, house and hip hop tunes. A good choice if you’re looking for a classy after-hours club boasting a state of the art audiovisual system. Open daily midnight til early morning.

OUTDOOR LOUNGE C Sukhumvit Rd.

Bangkok’s popular nightlife venue located in the heart of Bangkok’s party scene, Levels Club & Lounge, promises an unforgettable partying experience. It offers a world-class audio-visual environment, a sizeable dance floor and features Bangkok’s hottest DJs. There are special weekly promotions like the Thursday’s TOO SEXY Ladies Night, where girls gets three free drinks before midnight. Open daily 9pm til late. Check our website for a full listing of international DJs and promotions for the month of June.

Petchaburi Soi 19

Q-BAR

LIVE MUSIC H

Soi 15

082 308 3246 www.qbarbangkok.com www.facebook.com/QBarBangkok

Klong Saen Saep

08 2308 3246 (Thai & English) www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/levelsclub

Petchaburi Rd.

LEVELS CLUB & LOUNGE

Soi 13

This well-known fixture on the nightlife scene has been running for over 12 years and was voted Best Bar in Bangkok by readers of leading city living publication BK Magazine. The nightlife institution welcomes international DJs from all over the world as well as Bangkok’s cream of the crop. Fresh from a recent renovation, if you haven’t been to Q-Bar before, then you can now take advantage of a special promotion, where B500 gets you free entrance and a free bar on standard drinks and beer alongside a host of other daily promotions. Open daily from 9pm til late.

C

Soi 11

If live music, high-energy and lots of friendly girls is your thing then Bangkok Beat is the place to party ! Every night they have two bands playing the best in rock, R&B, pop, hip-hop, funk and classic hits all night long. With a laidback and a very casual atmosphere, the two-story space has a sizeable dance floor and a regular happy hour with B95 drinks from 9pm until midnight from Sunday to Thursday and a ladies night every Tuesday. Open daily 9pm until late. WE’RE SHOWING THE FIFA WORLDCUP LIVE!

E

G D

B H

Soi 9 Soi 7/1

BANGKOK BEAT 02 651 3919 www.thebankokbeat.com www.facebook.com/bkkbeat

A

Soi 7 PUB F

Soi 5 THE KIWI

WE’RE SHOWING

THE FIFA WORLDCUP LIVE! 02 653 3144 thekiwibangkok.com/en www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok

The Kiwi on Soi 8 is a long-time favorite with expats and visitors thanks to its welcoming pub atmosphere, its outdoor terrace and as a good spot to watch live sports. It also has a good reputation for delicious hearty meals from a pub breakfast to classic fish and chips. They also do a “Free BBQ” every Tuesday and a great roast dinner from noon every Sunday. Watch Live sports: NRL, AFL, EPL, F1 and many more.

24 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

SOI 11_JUNE_2014-2_NEW_2.indd 24

5/27/14 2:42 PM


GUIDE TO

SUKHUMVIT 11 OUTDOOR TERRACE D

Y

DINING G WE’RE SHOWING THE FIFA WORLDCUP LIVE!

KAZBAR

02 651 3313 www.facebook.com/Kazbarbangkok

New to Soi 11, The Kazbar is an alfresco streetside Shisha lounge located at the entrance to the Prime 11 building. This “Oasis of 11” boasts a lounge vibe, an intriguing tapas menu, chilled tunes and reasonably priced ice cold beers and specialty cocktails. Open from 6pm till late every day.

ANGEL CITY DINER

PUB E

Sukhumvit Ratch

Asok Soi 14

adap

Soi 12

hisek

02 651 3313 www.angelcitydiner.com www.facebook.com/angelcitydiner.bkk

Rd.

Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

THE AUSTRALIAN PUB & BBQ 02 651 0800 www.theaustralianbangkok.com www.facebook.com/TheAussiePub

Rama 4 Rd.

Soi 10 F

Situated in the heart of Soi 11, “The Aussie,” as it’s known to locals, is a great spot for sports fans. In fact, they feature no less than 14 flat screens and two projectors constantly showing live sports from around the world including the AFL and NRL. There’s also live music every day of the week, an impressive pub grub menu that includes specialties like Crocodile Kebabs and a chance to watch the world go by on the street-side terrace.

H

Soi 7/1

Nana

Soi 6

Soi 8

B

WE’RE SHOWING THE FIFA WORLDCUP LIVE!

LATE NIGHT B WAX 082 308 3246 www.waxbangkok.com www.facebook.com/WaxBangkok

Lose yourself in Wax’s hedonistic party space, which features a truly opulent décor complete with gold sofas and ornate chandeliers. However, there’s substance as well as style with a state of the art soundsystem and top international and local DJs ensuring the large dance floor remains full, with their mix of happening house tunes. Open bar daily from midnight-1:30am with free entrance before 2am.

Its late opening hours make this one a popular pit-stop for partied-out nightcrawlers. Angel City Diner takes its cues from classic 50s diners: expect lots of stainless-steel, neon signs, a jukebox playing rock n’ roll favorites and that classic checkered flooring. The menu is all-American, too, from hearty grills to massive breakfasts. Roll up your sleeves before tucking into the Angel Burger (patty, blue, cheddar and Swiss cheese, bacon, caramelized onion, mayo) or chili cheese burger (Texas beef chili, jalapeno and cheddar) as well as lots of tasty breakfast options. Open daily 11am-4:30am.

NIGHT CLUB A

V-CLUB 082 308 3246 www.levelsclub.com www.facebook.com/VClubBangkok

This well hidden venue is actually accessed via a glowing tunnel from Levels that takes you into a futuristic universe of light and sound. It features worldclass international DJs every Thursday, Bangkok’s hottest deep house DJs every weekend and one of Bangkok’s most exciting dance floors. Open Wednesday till Saturday, from midnight till late.

Scan the barcode and get discounts or free drinks in these owwutlets. JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 25

SOI 11_JUNE_2014-2_NEW_2.indd 25

5/27/14 2:42 PM


Y

BANGKOK

HEALTH + WELLNESS TRIA

Set in a four-story building located behind Piyavate Hospital, this medical spa offers a wide range of integrated wellness programs, ranging from spa treatments to cosmetic surgery and chiropractic to acupuncture. A recent refurbishment has seen the addition of more treatment rooms and the Café de Tria. Featuring a contemporary design with a touch of nature, the spa has separate sections for men and women, equipped with facilities like an infrared sauna, steam rooms, vitality pool, Japanese-style onsen and a post-treatment lounge. We recommend a 90-minute Tria Signature massage (B3,000) to relax your muscles and mind. Couples can enjoy a massage together at the Tria’s villas (extra B2,500), equipped with a steam room, Jacuzzi and shower. 998 Rimklongsamsen Road, 02-660-2660, MRT Rama 9. www.triawellness.com

SPA Y PICK AWAY SPA — Beds glow softly in your

choice of green, red, purple or pink, while the dim, labyrinthine halls induce an almost meditative mood. Treatments range from a onehour aroma massage and detox to a four-hand mineral scrub and oil massage. Finally, the Style Lab offers mani, pedi and grooming services. 6/F, W Bangkok, North Sathorn Road, 02-3444000 ext. 4160. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 10am-10pm. www.wbangkok.com XH12

Y PICK ELEMIS SPA — The Elemis Spa is the

brand’s first in Southeast Asia and only the fourth in the world. Its extravagant setting— the city view from the couples’ room is breathtaking—and the Arabian sauna in the Rassoul Chambers are highlights. 15/F, The St. Regis Bangkok, Ratchadamri Road, 02-2077777. BTS Ratchadamri. Open daily 10am10pm. www.stregis.com/bangkok YN18

DEVARANA SPA — The impressive white lobby has an almost heavenly quality, while the 14 individual spa rooms are little sanctuaries to enjoy a range of treatments from milk baths to body scrubs. Dusit Thani, 946 Rama IV Rd., 02-636-3596. Open daily 9am-10pm. www. devaranaspa.com XF10 DIVANA VIRTUE SPA — Tucked down a small soi close to Silom, this spa is authentic yet homey. Situated in a century-old house, decked out in a traditional Rama V style, it sits among a small yet lush garden to create a very private and calming atmosphere. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-637-8883. BTS Chong Nonsi. Open daily 9am-11pm. www.divana-dvn.com XG13

its classy residential cottages and treatment bungalows, the i.sawan Residential Spa & Club is one of the most beautiful spas in Bangkok. It also houses a full fitness club with squash courts and pool. 5/F, Grand Hyatt Erawan, 494 Ratchadamri Rd., 02-254-1234. Open daily 6am-11pm. www.bangkok.grand.hyatt.com

YN18

LE SPA WITH L’OCCITANE — Thailand’s first Le Spa with L’Occitane boasts a modern Thai style combined with elegant French touches. Treatments include the Golden Siamese Massage and Four Teas Ceremony. 9/F, Sofitel Bangkok, 189 Sukhumvit Rd., between Soi 13-15, 02-126-9999. Open daily 10am-10pm. BTS Nana. http://tinyurl.com/lmbgdnz ZB2

BHAWA SPA — This spa blends contemporary design, traditional touches and holistic treatments, from a precious stones detox to mind rejuvenation workshops. 83/27 Witthayu Soi 1, Wireless Road, 02-252-7988. Open daily 10am-11pm. www.bhawaspa.com YN20 BODY TUNE — The “menu” here is short, sweet and to the point: foot reflexology, hand, Thai and oil massage. But what they do, they do well. We prefer to visit the quieter Silom branch. 2/F, Yada Bldg., 56 Silom Rd., 02-238-4377. BTS Sala Daeng. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www.bodytune.co.th XG10

Y PICK I.SAWAN — With its chic design and

ELEMIS SPA

HEALTH LAND — Health Land has built its sizeable reputation on a blend of affordable prices, expert masseuses and select surroundings. Lots of branches throughout town also helps. 120 North Sathorn Rd., 02-6378883. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.healthlandspa.com XH12 I SPA — The treatments offered at this modern spa sanctuary are based on therapies from China, India, Japan and Thailand, using five choices of essential oils based on Asian flowers and herbs. 9/F, The Landmark Bangkok, 138 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-252-9444. BTS Nana. Open daily 10am10pm. www.ispathailand.com ZC1

LET’S RELAX — With branches around Thailand, and a wide range of packages and trained masseuses, Let’s Relax is a popular day spa. 6/F, Terminal 21, Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-6626935/-37. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 10am-midnight. More branches: www. letsrelaxspa.com ZB3 MULBERRY SPA — Set in a 60s-style residential compound, Mulberry Spa offers the usual selection of treatments amid a classy-yet-cozy ambiance. 132 Sukhumvit Soi 23, 02-664-1888. MRT Sukhumvit. Open daily 9am-11pm. More branches: www.mulberryspa.com ZB3 OKURA SPA — Situated in a contemporary oriental space, guests can enjoy stress-relieving therapies in five relaxing treatment rooms. Try the signature Okura Take Relief bamboo massage where therapists roll a warm bamboo pole over your muscles as part of an aroma oil massage. 25/F, The Okura Prestige Bangkok, Ploenchit Road, 02-687-9000. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-10pm. http://tinyurl.com/ kdyc2ln YM20

26 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

Health&Wellness_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 26

5/26/14 6:05 PM


BANGKOK

HEALTH + WELLNESS Y PICK PANPURI ORGANIC SPA — Hidden

behind the shelves of high-end beauty store Panpuri are the two small treatment rooms of this luxury spa. Lobby Level, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Road, 02-656-1199. Open daily 10am-8pm. www.panpuri.com YM18

S MEDICAL SPA — Founded by a renowned local anti-aging physician, the award-winning spa serves up real beauty from within, with a selection of integrated wellness programs. 2/2 Bhakdi Bldg., Wireless Road, 02-253-1010. BTS Ploenchit. Open daily 10am-9pm. www. smedspa.com. YL20

Y PICK SIX SENSES SPA — This famous hotel

chain’s spa sports plenty of wood, for that natural connection, but also boasts great views. Treatments come with a consultation with the spa director to help you select the aesthetic and therapeutic options. 30/F, Two Pacific Place, 142 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-653-2450. BTS Nana. Open Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun 9am-6pm. www.sixsenses.com ZB1

SOOK SABAI HEALTH MASSAGE — Conveniently located, the French-Indochinese vintage-inspired spa offers a range of treatments from traditional Thai to Balinese massages. 3-4/F, YJA Building, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., 02-637-5575. Open daily 10am–10.30pm. www.sooksabaispa.com XF11 SO SPA — Perched on the 11th floor of the cuttingedge Sofitel So, it offers the added bonus of a relaxing view over the greenery of Lumphini Park, amid its own soothingly lit, forest-themed décor. Sofitel So Bangkok, 2 Sathorn Nua Rd., 02-624-0000. www.sofitel-so-bangkok.com

SPA@TONSON — This resort-style spa includes nine treatment rooms and utilizes ancient Asian healing techniques through a range of treatments. 5F, Bliston Suwan Park View, 9 Soi Tonson, Ploenchit Road, 02-658-7980. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily noon-9pm. www. spatonson.com YN20 THANN SANCTUARY SPA — Their treatments use locally-made spa products and are offered within a tranquil space. 3/F, Gaysorn, Ploenchit Road, 02-656-1424. BTS Chit Lom. Open daily 10am-9pm. www.thann.info YM18 THE ORIENTAL SPA — The Oriental Spa offers four specialty suites, ten private rooms and a huge variety of treatments, covering everything from Thai to Hawaiian therapies. G/F, The Oriental Bangkok, 48 Oriental Ave., 02-6599000. Open daily 9am-10pm. http://tinyurl. com/q4h9oqz XJ9

Y

AESTHETIC CLINICS APEX SKIN CENTER — If you’re trying to solve some skin issues, check out this well established and popular skin center for state-of-the-art treatments from Botox to micro-dermabrasion. 3/F, The Emporium, Sukhumvit Soi 24, 02-644-8613/-4. BTS Phrom Phong. Open daily 10am-9pm. More branches: www.apexskincenter.com ZC6 ASTER SPRING — This international chain of skin care and health spas combines German techniques and products to provide effective facial and body treatments. The philosophy here is nofrills and no-nonsense, just good skin products that offer real results. L/F, Gaysorn, Ratchadamri Road, 02-656-1421/2. BTS Chidlom. Open daily 10am9pm. www.asterspringthailand.com YM18

URBAN RETREAT — Urban Retreat’s various branches offer relaxing havens from the city bustle in the middle of town. 31/10 Soi Phromjai, Sukhumvit Soi 39, 02-204-2008. Open daily 10am-10pm. More branches: www. urbanretreatspa.net ZA4 YUNOMORI ONSEN & SPA — Bangkok’s first authentic onsen (hot spring bath house) features water sourced from a hot spring in Ranong, in Southern Thailand. As with traditional onsens in Japan, bathing is done in the nude, though there are separate baths for men and women. A Square, Sukhumvit Soi 26, 02-259-5778. Open daily 10:30-midnight. www.yunomorionsen.com

XF12

SPA BOTANICA — Surrounded by the lush gardens of the Sukothai Hotel, Spa Botanica is a true urban retreat. Their signature spa treatments span two hours and combine the best of oriental massage options. 13/3 South Sathorn Rd., 02-2344-8900. Open daily 9am10pm. www.sukhothai.com XG13 URBAN RETREAT

APEX SKIN CENTER

PUTTHARAKSA — From non-invasive face lifts to the derma roller regeneration treatment, their aesthetic care is all about helping your body heal itself. Get further support through their anti-aging treatments. 1535 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-391-6336. BTS Phrakhanong. Open Mon-Sat 11:30am-9pm, Sun noon-6pm. www.puttharaksaclinic.com THE FACE AESTHETIC­— This stand alone clinic offers the atmosphere of a proper clinic with some touches of Gallic charm. Treatments are broken down into three main categories: beautification, tackling skin problems or fighting the effects of aging. 7/F, Bangkok Mediplex Centre, 2/30 Sukhumvit Soi 42, 02-712-2334. BTS Ekkamai. Open daily 10am8pm. ZD7

WHERE SPECIAL | Wellness

Sook Sabai Health Massage

Sook Sabai Health Massage is an oasis in the modern jungle that takes you back to the golden era of China’s Qin dynasty and its indulgent palaces. Lounge in a couch, recover from the heat and your busy lifestyle with a refreshing drink, and choose to enjoy one of our treatments. Our skillful therapists promise to deliver the best indulgence for your utmost relaxation. Get to enjoy the Sook Sabai experience everyday, from 10:00am – 10:30pm. Sook Sabai Health Massage, 23/13-14 YJA Building 3rd Floor, Soi Saladaeng 1, Silom Rd., Bangrak, Bangkok. For reservations, call 02-637-5575. Email : info@sooksabaispa.com. www.sooksabaispa.com

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 27

Health&Wellness_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 27

5/26/14 6:05 PM


Y

BANGKOK

SHOPS+SERVICES Y SPOTLIGHT

Central Embassy Bangkok’s newest luxury mall officially opened its doors last month with the promise of bigname fashion brands and exciting new eateries. The 37-story building dedicates eight floors to retail shops and the rest to a high-end hotel, Park Hyatt, which is still some way off completion. The stores are from some of the world’s most exciting fashion brands, and include the likes of Ralph Lauren, Tom Ford, Christian Louboutin, A.P.C., Jil Sander, Giuseppe Zanotti, and Hublot as well as high-end concept store Siwilai. Food-wise the new openings are quite exciting, too—with a host of high-end local favorites such as Issaya, Water Library and Minibar alongside popular eateries from around the world, such as dessert bar Chikalicious from New York, French patisserie Paul and Australia’s ice cream parlor Nitrogenie. On the sixth floor, you’ll find the Embassy Diplomat Screens—a cinema offering a VIP experience, with the latest technology and high-end amenities. Next to Central Chidlom, Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-3600. BTS Chidlom. www.centralembassy.com. YM19

DOWNTOWN AMARIN PLAZA — ­ The mall’s Greco-Roman façade actually hides some unexpected gems. ID1 on the first floor holds a collection of local designers, while the Thai Craft Market on the third floor is good for souvenirs. 496-502 Ploenchit Rd., 02-650-4704. BTS Chit Lom. www.amarinplaza.com YM18 CENTRALWORLD — ­ This massive complex is home to seven floors, or 550,000-sq-meters, of restaurants, cinemas and stores. It’s a good spot for high-street brands like Topshop, Gap and Uniqlo, as well as Thai favorites and also houses an Isetan Department Store. Ratchaprasong Intersection, Ratchadamri Road, 02-635-1111. BTS Chit Lom/Siam. www.centralworld.co.th YM18 CENTRAL CHIDLOM ­— Opened in 1973, it’s the closest thing Bangkok has to Harrods, and remains the Central Group’s flagship department store. It’s packed with leading brands, like Ralph Lauren, DVF, Coach, Paul Smith and Gucci. Don’t miss the great views from the seventh-floor food court. 1027 Ploenchit Rd., 02-793-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.central.co.th YM19 ERAWAN BANGKOK ­— This mini-mall might look petite, but it offers high-end boutiques you can’t find elsewhere, including Comme des Garçons, Alexander McQueen, Stella McCartney, Lanvin and Alexander Wang. 494 Ploenchit Rd., 02-250-7777. BTS Chit Lom. www.erawanbangkok.com YM18 GAYSORN — ­ Thailand’s boutique high-end mall is compact yet home to numerous luxury international labels (Louis Vuitton, Dior, Prada, and Fendi) and Thai brands like Sretsis, Disaya, Zenithorial and Panpuri. 999 Ploenchit Rd., 02-656-1149. BTS Chit Lom. www.gaysorn.com YM18

MBK CENTER ­­— Clothes, sneakers, suitcases, cameras, mobile phones and souvenirs—you can find it all here and all at bargain prices. As a result,­the chaotic MBK is packed with haggling tourists. Be warned: cheap doesn’t always mean good quality. Still, it’s a lot of fun and there’s a popular Thai food court on the sixth floor. 444 Phayathai Rd., 02-620-9000. BTS National Stadium. www.mbk-center.co.th YM16

SIAM DISCOVERY — ­ The sister mall of Siam Center is home to local furniture and decor designers, an ice-skating rink and a Madame Tussaud’s wax museum. Rama 1 Road, 02658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamdiscovery. co.th YM16 SIAM PARAGON — ­ With a prime location next to the city’s busiest BTS station, its towering glass façade contains a huge selection of stores, from Hermes and Chanel to street favorites like H&M and Zara, plus Siam Ocean World aquarium, a bowling alley, a concert venue and a multi-screen cinema. 991 Rama 1 Rd., 02-690-1000. BTS Siam. www. siamparagon.co.th YM17

SUKHUMVIT TERMINAL 21 — ­ Boasting an airport terminalcum-international destinations theme, the nine floors let you stop off at the Caribbean, Rome, Paris, Tokyo, London and Istanbul. The lower floors are dedicated to high-street chains, while the upper floors offer intriguing boutiques by Thai designers. There’s also a food court, restaurants and a cinema. 2-88 Sukhumvit Soi 19, 02-108-0888. BTS Asoke, MRT Sukhumvit. www.terminal21.co.th ZB3 THE EMPORIUM — ­ Set in the heart of an upscale residential area, The Emporium offers luxury shopping from brands like Hermes, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior and Celine, along with Thai favorites like Jaspal and Jim Thompson. There are also lots of places to eat, a cinema and the Thailand Creative & Design Center on the top floor. 622 Sukhumvit Rd., 02-269-1000. BTS Phrom Phong. www. emporiumthailand.com ZC4

MARKETS

MBK

PLATINUM FASHION MALL — ­ Platinum is Bangkok’s wholesale fashion shopping center and the biggest source for the city’s street and market stalls. You can find everything fashion-related from women’s shoes to men’s suits. And don’t worry about having to buy wholesale, as even single items come very cheap. 222 Petchaburi Rd., 02-121-8000. www.platinumfashionmall.com YK18 SIAM CENTER — ­ It offers inspirational spaces for art and design, befitting its reputation at the vanguard of the local fashion scene. The highlight is the Fashion Visionary space on the third floor, home to the flagship stores of top Thai designers and multi-Thai-label store The Selected. Rama 1 Road, 02-658-1000. BTS Siam. www.siamcenter.co.th YM16

CHATUCHAK MARKET — ­ Better known by locals as JJ, Chatuchak is a vast weekend market. More than 15,000 retailers occupy the 27-acre space, which is broken down into 27 sections, roughly categorized by the products each section offers. You can literally spend days amid the warren of stalls, but if you have limited time, then this is the general breakdown: books are in Section 1, while Sections 2-4 are home to young fashion designers. Sections 5-6 have vintage clothing, and you’ll find art in Sections 7-9. Sections 10-24 offer a real mix of miscellaneous stuff, while Sections 25-27 are dedicated to crafts and home-decor items. Corner of Phahonyothin and Kamphaeng Phet Roads. BTS Mo Chit/Saphan Kwai, MRT Kamphaeng Phet. Open Sat-Sun 10am-5pm. TALAD ROD FAI (TRAIN MARKET) ­— The popular “Talad Rotfai” or train market has now found its feet at its new location behind the Seacon Square Shopping Mall. Featuring a large number of vintage shops, cool bars with live music and food stalls in an open air setting, the massive weekend night market is packed with character and a hit with shoppers looking to find retro items. The market is open on Friday to Sunday from about 5pm to midnight. Get the BTS to Udomsuk Station and then take a taxi. Sri Nakarin Soi 51, 081-827-5885.

28 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

Shopping_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 28

5/26/14 6:07 PM


BANGKOK

SHOPS+SERVICES

Y

ELSEWHERE ASIATIQUE — This evenings-only shopping center on the banks of the Chao Phraya River is themed according to the city’s old architecture. Divided into sections, ranging from the waterfront to a 100-year old refurbished sawmill, it includes over 1,500 boutiques covering quirky fashions and intriguing souvenirs, plus offers a variety of eateries and wine bars. Asiatique is also home to a large ferris wheel, Calypso Cabaret, Joe Louis puppet theater and the dramatic new show Muay Thai Live. Free ferry from Sathorn Pier (BTS Saphan Taksin). 2194 Charoenkrung Rd., 02-108-4488. Open daily 4pm-midnight. www. asiatiquethailand.com. OP PLACE ­— Situated in a beautiful neoclassicalstyle building close to the river, this luxury mall oozes charm from the sweeping wooden staircase to the antique lift. It’s home to a host of high-end boutiques offering unique and rare antiques and artifacts from across Southeast Asia, handcrafted jewelry, bespoke tailors and fine art. There’s also a free shuttle service to the nearby OP Garden, which houses art galleries, restaurants and high-end boutiques. 30/1 Charoenkrung Soi 38, 02-266-0186. XJ9 RIVER CITY ­— Situated right on the river, the third and fourth floors of this mall are packed with boutique stores selling the very best in Thai and Southeast Asian art, antiques and artefacts. Once you’re done shopping, you can also take advantage of the collection of bars and restaurants on the ground floor, which offer great river views out on the terrace. Yotha Road, 02-237-0077. Si Phraya Pier. www. therivercity.com.

Y SPOTLIGHT

Thai Craft Fair If you are looking for authentic and ethicallymade products or gifts to take home, check out this fair which will be held on June 7. There will be more than 50 stalls of independent artisans from all over Thailand selling handmade products including textiles, home décor, baskets, cosmetics, toys and other accessories. There are also workshops to join such as the “Fun shop by ThaiCraft: Beading the Heat,” where you can learn to make coasters from translucent beads with artisans from Siam Care Group—a group taking care of local HIV-affected Thai women and children. Jasmine City Building, Sukhumvit Soi 23, www.thaicraft.org. Open 10am to 3pm, near BTS Asoke and MRT Sukhumvit. ZB3

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 29

Shopping_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 29

5/26/14 6:07 PM


Y

BANGKOK

NAVIGATE

OVERVIEW

Lat Phrao ÅÒ´¾ÃŒÒÇ

Phahon Yothin ¾ËÅâ¸Թ

Chatuchak Park Êǹ¨µØ¨Ñ¡Ã

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

Kamphaeng Phet ¡ÓᾧྪÃ

Bang Sue ºÒ§«×่Í

Ratchadapisek ÃѪ´ÒÀÔàÉ¡

Mo Chit ËÁͪԵ

2

Sutthisan ÊØ·¸ÔÊÒÃ

Saphan Khwai Êоҹ¤ÇÒÂ

Huai Khwang ËÑÇ¢ÇÒ§

Ari ÍÒÃÕÂ

Thailand Cultural Centre Èٹ ÇѲ¹¸ÃÃÁáË‹§»ÃÐà·Èä·Â

Sanam Pao ʹÒÁ໇Ò

!0

Ratchawithi Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒªÇÔ¶Õ

3

Phra Athit ·‹ÒàÃ×;ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

W

4

Victory Monument ͹ØàÊÒÇÃÕÂ

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

5

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

X

Hua Lamphong ËÑÇÅÓ⾧

Sam Yan ÊÒÁ‹ҹ

Phetchaburi ྪúØÃÕ Phrom Phong ¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

Z

Ramkhamhaeng ÃÒÁ¤Óá˧

Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ªÃºØÃÕ

Thong Lo ·Í§ËÅ‹Í Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑ Phra Khanong ¾ÃÐ⢹§

Asok ÍâÈ¡

!4 Queen Sirikit National Conv. Centre Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Silom ÊÕÅÁ

Lumphini ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

On Nut ͋͹¹Øª

9 m

Silo

R

Punnawithi »Ø³³ÇÔ¶Õ

Á

¹ÊÕÅ

¶¹ d.

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

Oriental ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ

d.

nR hor

Udom Suk ÍØ´ÁÊØ¢

à ÊÒ·

¶¹¹

Bang Na ºÒ§¹Ò

Sat

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã

To Bang Wa Station

Saphan Taksin ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Chao Phraya River áÁ‹¹้Ó਌ҾÃÐÂÒ

1

Bangkok Overview Key

Rama III Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 3

Bearing áºÃÔ่§

Sukhumvit Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Krung Thon Buri ¡Ãا¸¹ºØÃÕ

1 Asiatique

!0 Victory Monument

Main road

2 Chatuchak Market

!1 Yaowarat (Chinatown)

BTS (Sukhumvit Line)

3 Vimanmek Mansion

!2 Central Rail Station (Hua Lamphong)

BTS (Silom Line)

4 Anantasamakhom Throne Hall

!3 Lumpini Park

MRT

5 Khaosan Road

!4 Queen Sirikit National Convention Centre

Airport Rail Link (ARL)

6 National Museum

!5 Siam Paragon

River/Klong (canal)

7 Grand Palace / Temple of The Emerald Buddha

!6 CentralWorld and Zen

8 Wat Po

!7 Bangkok Art and Culture Centre

9 Wat Arun

!8 Thailand Cultural Centre

Pier

Y

Bang Chak ºÒ§¨Ò¡

Khlong Toei ¤ÅͧàµÂ

Sala Daeng ÈÒÅÒá´§

Ratchawong ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÃҪǧ¤

Si Phraya ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÕ¾ÃÐÂÒ

Nana ¹Ò¹Ò

!3

Yaowarat Rd.

Tha Tien ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒàµÕ¹

Phloen Chit à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

Ratchadamri ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

!2 !1

Makkasan ÁÑ¡¡ÐÊѹ

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Siam ÊÂÒÁ

Tha Chang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í·‹ÒªŒÒ§

8

Y

!5!6

National Stadium ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

7

Ratchaprarop ÃÒª»ÃÒö

Ratchathewi ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

!7

Wang Lang ·‹ÒàÃ×Í ÇѧËÅѧ

To Suvarnabhumi Airport

Phaya Thai ¾ÞÒä·

Ratchadamnoen Klang Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´Óà¹Ô¹¡ÅÒ§

6

!8 Phra Ram 9 ¾ÃÐÃÒÁ 9

FIND OUT THE LATEST NEWS ON THAILAND AT WWW.WHERETHAILAND.COM AND FACEBOOK.COM/WHERETHAILAND

30 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

Navigate_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 30

5/26/14 6:08 PM


BANGKOK

NAVIGATE

Y

GET MOVING

1. 11 Gallery B1 2. Above Eleven A1 3. Appia C4 4. Bo.Lan D5 5. Indus E5 6. Isao C4 7. Khun Churn D7 8. L’Appart B2 9. La Bottega Di Luca B5 10. Little Beast B5 11. Maverick B3 12. Maya C6 13. Near Equal C5 14. Opposite Mess Hall C5 15. Paste A5 16. Phuket Town C6 17. Scalini C5 18. Seven Seas C1 19. Quince C5 20. Smith C5 21. Soul Food Mahanakorn C6 22. Supanniga Eating Room C6 23. The Local A3 24. Water Library B6

20

Arena 10

8 24

14

22

13

9 G

9

5

Parklane ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ¾Òà ¤àŹ

21

·Í§ËÅ‹Í

16

The Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

Major Cineplex Sukhumvit

H

Ekkamai àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

4

5

TO B

Ekkamai Bus Terminal ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

7 11

EARIN

G STAT

ION

4 I

J

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 31 15

TO MO CHIT STATION

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

20

21

Ratchathewi

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ Navigate_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 31

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

Jim Thompson

21

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóРàºÞ¨ÊÔÃÔ

F

12

17

17 Benchasiri Park

20

16

Thong Lo

Rain Hill ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ àùÎÔÅ

2

10

14 20

19

3

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

5/26/14 6:09 PM

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

1

SUKHUMVIT7

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

Soi Sukhumvit 39 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 39

5

12

7

Prommit Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒžÌÍÁÁÔµÃ

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 26

Soi Sukhumvit 16 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 16

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

J Avenue ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ਠÍÐàǹÔÇ

Seen Space

¾ÃŒÍÁ¾§É

1. Escape Hunt C3 2. Rooftop Gallery A6 3. Thailand Creative and Design Centre (TCDC) C4 4.Kidzooma D7 5. Playtime C7

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

13

4

Benchakitti Park

15

10

Phrom Phong

ÍâÈ¡

Art & Attractions

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 40

Asok

1. Almeta Silk A3 2. Terminal 21 B3 3. The Emporium C4 4. Thai Craft Fair B3

3

9

1

Shopping

3

3

6

1. Apex C6 2. Chillax Spa B4 3. Dermaster A7 4. I SPA Landmark C1 5. Oasis Spa C5 6. Le Spa B2 7. Let’s Relax B3 8. Mulberry Spa B3 9. S Sense Spa C7 10. Six Senses Spa B1 11. The Face D7 12. Urban Retreat A4

6

Soi Sukhumvit 38 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 38

Sukhumvit ÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 2

D

Z

Soi Sukhumvit 31 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 31

Jasmine City Building Thai Craft Fair ÍÒ¤ÒèÑÊÁÔ¹ «ÔµÕ้

Terminal 21 ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à·ÍÁÔ¹ÍÅ 21

6

E

2

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 24

Robinson ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ âúԹÊѹ

Soi Sukhumvit 14 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 14

Soi Sukhumvit 12 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 12

18

18

20

7

Times Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ä·Á Êá¤ÇÃ

8

5

10

Soi Sukhumvit 10 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 10

4

Samitivej Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÊÁÔµÔàǪ

Soi Sukhumvit 22 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 22

8

11

Soi Sukhumvit 20 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 20

6

Soi Sukhumvit 23 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 23

1

Soi Sukhumvit 19 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 19

«ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 11

11

Soi Sukhumvit 15 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 15

Soi Sukhumvit 13 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 13

15 1

TO MO CHIT STATION

Soi Sukhumvit 4 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 4

5

Almeta Silk

¹Ò¹Ò

C

4 12

19

Nana

B

3

TO BANG SUE STATION

Sukhumvit 51

2

23

Soi 11

A

Soi Sukhumvit 3 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 3

Bumrungrad Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅ ºÓÃاÃÒÉ®Ã

1

Soi Sukhumvit 55 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 55

used to be the Venice of the East, there is now only really one canal (klong) still used as a means of getting around. Klong Saen Saep canal has a ferry service that runs daily from Bang Kapi in the Eastern suburbs to Phu Khao Thong or

Z

Health & Wellness

1. Apoteka A1 2. Axis & Spin C3 3. Bad Motel A6 4. Bangkok Betty C4 5. BeerVault B2 6. Long Table D3 7. Clouds B6 8. Fat Gutz B6 9. Gramercy Park A1 10. Iron Fairies B6 11. Levels A1 12. Mellow B6 13. Mikkeller B7 14. Myst B6 15. Nest A1 16. Octave C6 17. Perfume C6 18. Potion B4 19. Q Bar/Le Derriere A1 20. Raw Bar A6 21. WTF C5 22. Wine Republic B6

Soi Sukhumvit 49 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 49

CANAL BOATS­—While Bangkok

9 2

Nightlife

Dining

Soi 53

the Golden Mount in the heart of the Old Town (Rattanakosin Island), stopping off at various piers along the way. Be warned though, the boats don’t wait long at the piers, making getting on and off rather nerve-wracking (and physically-challenging). And, due to the unsavory nature of the canal water, any picturesque view is blocked by sheets of tarpaulin to prevent splashing. Fares are B9-B19.

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 34

AIRPORT LINK—The Airport Rail Link (ARL) is one of the fastest and cheapest ways to get to and from Suvarnabhumi Airport, especially for those traveling light. There are two types of trains: Express Line and City Line. The ARL Express Line runs from Suvarnabhumi to either Phaya Thai (connecting to the BTS) or Makkasan stations (tenminute walk to MRT Petchaburi), and takes 20 minutes. The City Line stops at six stations and takes around 40 minutes. THAI Airways passengers boarding the Express Line can check in their bags at Makkasan station. Fares are B15-B45 for City Line and B90 one-way and B150 roundtrip for Express Line. More information at airportraillink.railway.co.th.

4


Y

BANGKOK

NAVIGATE 8

7

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

3

10

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12 ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Rama 4 Rd.

2

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

11

2

Sala Daeng

Jim Thompson

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

6 6

8

2 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ

G

9

5

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

9

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

13

Si Lom Rd.

Silom Soi 4

1

Chong Nonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ

4

12

G STAT

ION

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

4

X

21

7 6

22

1. Blue Elephant I13 2. Chef Man I13 3. Eat Me G11 4. Jim Thompson H8 5. La Scala F13 P 6. Le Du G11 7. Le Normandie J9 8. Nahm G13 9. Ruen UraiBridge G8Pier Memorial ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸ 10. Sensi G14 11. Somtum Der F11 12. 661 Silom I11

Nightlife

7

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

2

1. Cloud 47 G10 2. DJ Station F9 3. Ku De Ta H12 4. Maggie Choo’s J10 5. Moon Bar F13 6. Park Society F12 7. Scarlett H10 8. Sky Bar J10 9. Woo Bar H12

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Q

8

St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ

2

Surasak ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

1

8

Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا

Saphan Taksin ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹

9 OP Place

Oriental Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ

Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã TO BANG WA STATION

Dining

TO BEARING STATION

4

Pan Rd. ¶¹¹»˜œ¹

City Viva

Surasak Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์

Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢

I

µ

10

Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕÅÁ 19 7

4

Chit

1

1

5

Pramuan Rd. ¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ 5

J

2

9 3

7

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

rminal ÁÑÂ

5 8

Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์

Ekkamai

EARIN

5 8

4

H

TO B

3

6

TO BANG SUE STATION

3

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

F

7

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

3

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

7 11

SILOM14

13

Lumphini

23

8

X

frequent ferries along the Chao Phraya River are a Wat Arun Tha Tien Piergreat way to get a different perspective on Tha the·‹Phrachan city,Pier 4. Divana ÇÑ´ÍÃس Virtue Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã ·‹ÒàµÕ¹ Spa I12 as well as a good option for getting to many of the 5. Health Land H12 temples and palaces built along the river. The main 6. So SPA F12 3 Sathorn (Central) pier is located by BTS Saphan 7. Sook Sabai F11 1 6 Taksin with boats heading upstream from here 8. Spa Botanica G13 9. The Oriental Spa J9 and stopping off at numerous piers all the way to Nonthaburi. Fares range from 9 B15 to B42 depend1 Shopping 1 1. Jim Thompson F8 ing on distance. You can also opt for a tourist ticket Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ Wat Po 2. OP Place J92 ÇѴ⾸Ô์ (B150), which allows one-day unlimited travel and comes with a guide booklet to some of the leading Art & Attractions 1. Artery Post-Modern tourist attractions accessible from the river. From Gallery I11 Sathorn (Central) Pier, you can also catch free fer2. Art In Effect F12 Wat Rajapardit ries to many riverside hotels and Asiatique. ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ° 3. 338 OIDA F14

4. H Gallery H11 5. Kathmandu Photo Gallery I11 6. Serindia Gallery J9 7. Silom Galleria: CVN/Number 1 Gallery/Thavibu/ Tang Gallery I10 R Health & Wellness 8. White Space Gallery F12 1. Away Spa H12 India Emporium ¹¤ŒÒ The Old Siam Plaza 2. Body Tune G10 ÍÔ¹à´ÕˌҧÊÃþÊÔ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ 3. Devarana Spa F10 China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

32 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4 S

EXPRESS RIVER BOATS—25These fast and 24

SKYTRAIN/UNDERGROUND—The

BTS skytrain Wat stops at Bangkok’s main districts and Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ gives you a bird’s eye view of the city. There are two main lines: the Silom Line, which runs from across the river in Bang Wa to National Stadium next to MBK Shopping Centre; and the Sukhumvit Line, which runs from Soi Bearing in the eastern part of the city along Sukhumvit before heading up north to Mo Chit station by the Chatuchak Market. Siam is the interchange station between the two Bura pa R d. ¶¹lines. Fares are B15-52. Unlimited day passes are ¹ºÙþ Ò B130.

2

The underground, or MRT, is one line but has an 26 27 28 extensive reach, from Hua Lamphong train station Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) on Wang the Lang outskirts of Chinatown, down through the Pier âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃس main Central Business District6 before turning North and heading up Ratchadapisek Road past Chatuchak Market and ending at Bang Sue station. Fares are B16-B40. There are three interchange stations: (1) BTS Asok—MRT 4 Sukhumvit, (2) BTS Sala Daeng—MRT Silom and (3) BTS Mo Chit—MRT Chatuchak. 1

Tickets can be bought3 for individual journeys, 5 Phra Athit Pier or you can get special one-day tourist passes or ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍҷԵ tickets that cover a specified number of trips. For Chana Songkram more information,Watgo to www.bts.co.th and www. ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ bangkokmetro.co.th. Note that the BTS and MRT use different ticketing systems. Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

TAXIS—In Bangkok metered taxis are readily available and very affordable, with fares starting from B35 for the first two kilometers. Despite their many colors, there’s no difference in prices and service. Some drivers speak limited English, so do get your destination written down in Thai to avoid any miscommunication. Taxis sometimes Democracy try toMonument negotiate a price. Make sure to only pay the ͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ metered price. There are now also a number of 5 mobile phone applications and services for those Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

7

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ

Navigate_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 32

5/26/14 6:09 PM


7

8

9

Chamchuri Square ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¨ÒÁ¨ØÃÕÊá¤ÇÃ

3

10

ÊÕÅÁ

Chulalongkorn Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŨؿÒŧ¡Ã³

12

2 F

Jim Thompson

7

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 4

11

2

Sala Daeng

Soi Sala Daeng «ÍÂÈÒÅÒá´§

ÈÒÅÒá´§

Silom Soi 2

6 6

8

2 Silom Complex

Thaniya Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ¸¹ÔÂÐ

àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

EARIN

G STAT

ION

4

Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 42

Y

5 8

¶¹¹ÊÕÅÁ

Si Lom Rd.

Sathorn Tai Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ã㵌

H

Ekkamai

TO B

BANGKOK

NAVIGATE

5 8

of getting around Bangkok, not to mention great erally from 8:30am to 3:30pm, Monday through 3 1 photo opportunities.6 However, they are no guaranFriday except on public holidays and bank holidays. tee of beating the infamous traffic and you should Banks in malls open daily, 10am-8pm. agree on a price before getting in. Haggle hard but ATMS—ATMs are very common in Bangkok and be wary of any cheap offers if you don’t want an Narathiwat Ratchanakharin Rd. ¶¹¹¹ÃÒÃÔÇÒÊÃÒª¹¤ÃÔ¹·¸Ô์ can be found in most areas of Thailand, often lounexpected trip to a tailor or gem store. cated outside of 7-Eleven stores. You should easily be 9able to use overseas cards to withdraw money. VAT REFUNDS­—Visitors Thailand who ChongtoNonsi ª‹Í§¹¹·ÃÕ 1 make purchases of goods valued B5,000 or over 3 4 City Viva from stores displaying the “VAT REFUND FOR 5 7 TOURISTS” sign are eligible to receive a refund of the VAT paid on the item. At the time you purchase St. Louis Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒÅૹµ ËÅØÂÊ the item present your passport and¶¹¹»ÃÐÁÇÅ ask the sales Pramuan Rd. 5 4 5. Rattanakosin assistant at the store to complete the VAT Refund Dining 2 Exhibition Hall S26 Rd. ¶¹¹»˜ œ¹ 1. Eat Sight Story P23 Application for TouristsPan form, attaching the original 12 6. Royal Barge 2. Supatra Riverside P26 1 Surasak tax invoices to the form. Then at the airport, and Museum P27 ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ P23 3. Sala Rattanakosin Soi Silom 19 «ÍÂÊÕ ÅÁ 19 your goods and the before you check-in, present 7. The Queen’s 4. Seven Spoons T27 1 7 Gallery S27 refund form to customs officers to get your form 5. Sheepshank Q27 Mahesak Rd. ¶¹¹ÁàËÊÑ¡¢ Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃÈÑ¡´Ô์ 8. Wat Arun 6. The Deck P23 stamped. After check-inSurasak and immigration, proceed (Temple of Dawn) P22 4 to the VAT 8 Refund Office in the departure lounge. Art & Attractions 9. Wat Phra Kaeo 1. Grand Palace/MuRefund amounts under B30,000, will be made in (Temple of the Emerald Charoen Krung Rd. ¶¹¹à¨ÃÔÞ¡Ãا Saphan seum of Textiles Q25 Taksin Buddha) Q25 cash (Thai Baht) or by bank draft or credited to 7 ÊоҹµÒ¡ÊÔ¹ 2. Museum Siam Q23 10. Wat Po Q24 your credit card account. Refunds over B30,000, 3. National Gallery Q27 9 6 will be made by bank draft or credited to your credit Nightlife OP Place 4. National Museum Oriental Pier Central Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍâÍàÃÕ¹àµÅ 1. Babble & Rum Q27 ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊÒ·Ã Q27 card account.

Surawong Rd. ¶¹¹ÊØÃǧÈ

Soi Sukhumvit 63 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ· 63

5

TO BANG SUE STATION

3

BANKING HOURS—Banking hours10 are gen-

Soi Convent «Í¤͹áǹµ TUK-TUKS—Tuk-tuks are a noisy but fun way

who want to hail a cab without having to hit the Silom Soi 4 streets. The three main apps to check out are Easy Taxi 9 (www.facebook.com/EasyTaxiThai), Grab Taxi (grabtaxi.com/bangkok-thailand/) and G Uber (www.uber.com/cities/bangkok). All of 4 these are in English language and charge a small fee for ordering the taxi or private car through the application.

13

erminal ¡ÁÑÂ

14

ÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

Sathorn Nuea Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒ·Ãà˹×Í

3

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

7 11

13

Lumphini

Rama 4 Rd.

9

I

J

W

TO BANG WA STATION

21

22

23

8

24

Wat Arun ÇÑ´ÍÃس

25

2 Tha Phrachan Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃШѹ·Ã

Tha Tien Pier ·‹ÒàµÕ¹

6 1

RATTANAKOSIN28

26

27

Wang Lang Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÇѧËÅѧ

Siriraj Piyamaharaj Karun Hospital (SiPH) âç¾ÂÒºÒÅÈÔÃÔÃÒª » ÂÁËÒÃÒª¡ÒÃسÂ

6

3

P 1

1 Memorial Bridge Pier ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊоҹ¾Ø·¸

2

9

4

Wat Phra Kaeo ÇÑ´¾ÃÐá¡ŒÇ

Wat Po ÇѴ⾸Ô์

1 3

2

7

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

µ

5

Phra Athit Pier ·‹Ò¾ÃÐÍÒ·ÔµÂ

Wat Chana Songkram ÇÑ´ª¹Ðʧ¤ÃÒÁ

Wat Rajapardit ÇÑ´ÃÒª»ÃдÔÉ°

Q

Chit

Wat Suthat ÇÑ´ÊØ·Ñȹ

Police Station ʶҹյÓÃǨ

TO BEARING STATION

8 2

2

R

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

3

11 Lumpini Park ÊǹÅØÁ¾Ô¹Õ

TO NATIONAL STADIUM STATION

Si Lom

India Emporium ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ÍÔ¹à´Õ àÍ็Áâ¾àÃÕÂÁ

The Old Siam Plaza ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ´Ô âÍÅ´ ÊÂÒÁ China World ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ䫹‹Ò àÇÔÅ ´

Democracy Monument

Bura

pa R

͹ØÊÒÇÃÕ »ÃЪҸԻäµÂ

d. ¶¹

¹ºÙþ

Ò

5

Wat Ratchanadda ÇÑ´ÃÒª¹Ñ´´Ò

S

7

Wat Saket ÇÑ´ÊÃÐࡵØ

T

W

4

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 33

Navigate_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 33

5/26/14 6:09 PM


Soi Sukhumvit 42 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

Soi Sukhumvit 38

5

ʶҹբ¹Ê‹§àÍ¡ÁÑÂ

Soi Sukhumvit 40 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

ÊǹÊÒ¸ÒóàºÞ¨¡ÔµµÔ

E

Soi

Queen Sirikit National Convention Center Èٹ »ÃЪØÁáË‹§ªÒµÔÊÔÃÔ¡ÔµÔ์

Benchakitti Park

Soi Sukhumvit 36 «ÍÂÊØ¢Ø

NAVIGATE

Soi Sukhumvit 26 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁÇÔ·

BANGKOK

Soi Sukhumvit 24 «ÍÂÊØ¢ØÁ

Y

Soi

D

Soi Sukhum

6

I

J

TO HUA LAMPHONG STATION

TO MO CHIT STATION

15

16

17

18 Petchaburi Rd. ¶¹¹à¾ÃªºØÃÕ

19

SIAM21

20

Ratchathewi Platinum Mall á¾ÅµµÔ¹ÑÁ ÁÍÅÅ

6

10 1

L

4,6

5 2

Siam Discovery ÊÂÒÁ´ÔʤѿàÇÍÃÕ่

Siam Center ÊÂÒÁà«็¹àµÍÃ

Central World à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÇÔà Ŵ

Siam Paragon ÊÂÒÁ¾ÒÃҡ͹

2,7,12 8

Wat Patum Wanaram ÇÑ´»·ØÁǹÒÃÒÁ

9

1

ZEN à«็¹

Gaysorn ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒà¡ÉÃ

Chit Lom ªÔ´ÅÁ

P

Memorial Brid ·‹ÒàÃ×ÍÊо

10

2

Phloen Chit

Central Chidlom Central Embassy ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒ à«็¹·ÃÑŪԴÅÁ à«็¹·ÃÑÅàÍ็ÁºÒÊ«Õ่

à¾ÅÔ¹¨Ôµ

¶¹¹¾ÃÐÃÒÁ·Õ่ 1

Digital Gateway ´Ô¨ÔµÍÅà¡็µàÇÂ

Royal Thai Police Êӹѡ§Ò¹µÓÃǨáË‹§ªÒµÔ

5

4

8

O

ESSENTIAL NUMBERS Emergency Services (Fire Brigade, Police) 191 Airport Rail Link 02-308-5600. airportraillink.railway.co.th Bangkok Mass Transit System (BTS) 02-617 6000 (daily 6am-midnight). www.bts.co.th BTS Tourist Information Center : 02-617-7340-1 (daily: 8am-8pm). www.bts.co.th

Henri Dunant Rd. ¶¹¹ ÍѧÃÕ´Ù¹Ñǵ

Y

Phaya Thai Rd. ¶¹¹¾ÞÒä·

9

N

11

Amarin Plaza Erawan Bangkok ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒÍÑÁÃÔ¹·Ã ˌҧÊÃþÊÔ¹¤ŒÒàÍÃÒÇѹ

General Police Hospital âç¾ÂÒºÒŵÓÃǨ

11

Royal Bangkok Sports Club

4

3 6

4

3

3

Ratchadamri

1

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

ÊÂÒÁ

MBK ÁÒºØÞ¤Ãͧ

Soi Tonson «Í µŒ¹Ê¹

M

TO BEARING STATION

Siam Soi Lang Suan «Í ËÅѧÊǹ

ʹÒÁ¡ÕÌÒáË‹§ªÒµÔ

8 2

7

2

R

ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

1

Ratchawong Pier ·‹ÒÃҪǧ¤

Q

Rama 1 Rd.

National Stadium

7

Soi Ruam Rudi «Í ËÇÁÄ´Õ

3

Chit Lom Rd. ¶¹¹ªÔ´ÅÁ

Ratchadamri Rd. ¶¹¹ÃÒª´ÓÃÔ

K

Witthayu Rd. ¶¹¹ÇÔ·ÂØ

Pantip Plaza ¾Ñ¹·Ô¾Â ¾ÅÒ«‹Ò

Soi Som Khit «ÍÂÊÁ¤Ô´

ÃÒªà·ÇÕ

S 5

Sarasin Rd. ¶¹¹ÊÒÃÊÔ¹

T

TO BANG WA

Bangkok Metro (MRT) 02-624-5200 (daily 6ammidnight). www.bangkokmetro.co.th Chao Phraya Express Boat Call Center 02-623-60013 (6am-7pm). www.chaophrayaexpressboat.com Suvanbhumi International Airport 1722/02-1321888. www.suvarnabhumiairport.com Tourism Authority of Thailand (TAT) – 1672. www.tourismthailand.org Tourist Police 24-hour call center 1155

Dining

1. Bawarchi M18 2. Le Beaulieu N21 3. Elements M20 4. Erawan Tea Room N18 5. Gaggan O19 6. Jim Thompson Restaurant & Bar L15 7. Kisara/Reflexions N21 8. Shintori/Ying Yang/ Zense/Horizons M18 9. Shintaro N18 10. Sra Bua L17 11. Zuma N18

Nightlife

1. Falabella O18 2. Hyde & Seek M21 3. The Speakeasy N19 4. The St Regis Bar N18

Health & Wellness

1. Aveda M17 2. Aster Spring M18 3. Bhawa N21 4. Elemis Spa N18 5. i.Sawan N18 6. Okura Spa M20 7. Panpuri Spa M18 8. Rarinjinda N19 9. Romrawin M19 10. S Medical Spa L20 11. Spa@Tonson N20

12. Thann Sanctuary Spa M18

Y

Shopping

1. Amarin Plaza M18 2. Central Chidlom M19 3. Central Embassy M19 4. CentralWorld M18 5. Erawan Bangkok M18 6. Gaysorn M18 7. MBK Center M16 8. Pantip Plaza K17 9. Platinum Mall K18 10. Siam Center/Siam Discovery M16 11. Siam Paragon M17 12. ZEN L18

Art & Attractions

1. 100 Tonson Gallery N20 2. Bangkok Art & Culture Centre (BACC) M16 3. Jim Thompson Art Center & House L1 5 4. KidZania M17 4. Madame Tussauds M16 5. Siam Ocean World M17 6. Sombat Permpoon Gallery L21

34 W H E R E T H A I L AND I J UNE 2 0 1 4

Navigate_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 34

5/26/14 6:09 PM


21 THINGS WE LOVE about Thailand

3

7

!7

!3

9

@1

1 Learning to kite surf on Hua

6 Learning about the lifestyle of

!2 Taking a bicycle tour around the

!7 Shopping for unique vintage finds,

Hin Beach in Prachuab Khirikhan, one of the best spots in Asia for this exciting sport thanks to the shallow water, long flat beach and strong winds all year round. For lessons and equipment, try www. kiteboardingasia.com

an upper-class Bangkok family from 70 years ago at the Bangkokian Museum (02-233-7027) on Charoenkrung Soi 43.

floating market, lush plantations, and crumbling temples of Bang Krajao, named the lung of Bangkok. For tours, try www.spiceroads.com.

sipping candy-colored cocktails and mingling with Bangkok’s hipsters all in an extremely laidback atmosphere at Talat Rodfai (See page 28).

7 Staying overnight at one of the boathouse rafts on Cheow Larn Lake in the stunning Kao Sok National Park in Phanga province.

!3 Admiring the work of established

!8 Taking advantage of the end of

and emerging Thai and international artists at the Bangkok Art and Culture Centre (BTS National Stadium, www.bacc.or.th).

the rainy season with a spot of white water rafting at Mae Hong Son on the border with Myanmar.

2 Experiencing the stylish luxury at the Iniala Beach House (www. iniala.com) on Natai Beach, Phang Nga, which offers three exquisitely designed villas and one penthouse. 3 Catching the train from Bangkok to Ayutthaya, Thailand’s former capital city and home to numerous ancient temples like Wat Phra Mahthat and Wat Maheyong. 4 Browsing for luxury fashion brands at the countless boutiques and high-end malls of Ratchaprasong Avenue (BTS Siam).

8 Sampling authentic Thai dishes served up at Nahm at the Metropolitan Hotel in Bangkok (http://tinyurl.com/l7py6wg), recently voted Asia’s top restaurant. 9 Checking into one of the spa cottages for a full day of pampering and treatments at the beautifully appointed I.Sawan Residential Spa & Club (http://tinyurl.com/ktc7cry) at the Grand Hyatt Erawan Bangkok.

!9 Exploring Bangkok’s Chinatown !4 Watching the awe-inspiring sight of thousands of bats stream out of their cave to go hunting for the night at the beautiful Khao Yai National Park in Nakhon Ratchasima province.

!5 Learning how to cook Thai food from old-school recipes at the beautiful Blue Elephant Cooking School (www.blueelephant.com). !6 Experiencing the natural beauty of

!0 Strolling down Phuket Town’s

5 Snorkeling in the crystal clear

heritage trail and experiencing the unique Baba-Nyonya architecture.

waters off the beaches of Koh Lanta in the Andaman Sea.

!1 Drinking in the cityscape view

Y

the Andaman Sea, kayaking through the mangrove forests, caves and blue lagoons off the coast of Krabi province. Try www.seacanoe.net, who offer a wide range of tours.

from the al fresco bar of Park Society (www.sofitel.com) on top of the swanky Sofitel So Hotel overlooking Lumpini Park.

and learning about the history of the early Chinese immigrants to Bangkok before sampling authentic dishes at various stalls in the vibrant neighborhood. (Yaowarat Road).

@0 Getting up close to a gentle giant by volunteering for a day or staying overnight at the Elephant Nature Foundation (www. elephantnaturefoundation.org) in Mae Sa district, Chiang Mai.

@1 Admiring the antiques and the Art Deco-inspired style created by famous architect Bill Bensley at The Siam (www.thesiamhotel.com) in Bangkok.

where in the world Where is an international network of magazines first published in 1936 and distributed in 4,000 leading hotels in more than 50 places around the world. Look for us when you visit any of the following cities, or plan ahead for your next trip by visiting us online at wheretraveler.com ASIA Thailand, Singapore

UNITED STATES Alaska & Yukon, Atlanta, Baltimore, Boston, Charleston, Charlotte, Chicago, Dallas, Georgia, Indianapolis, Las Vegas, Los Angeles, Maui, Minneapolis/St. Paul, New Orleans, New York, Northern Virginia, Oahu, Orange County (CA), Orlando, Philadelphia, Phoenix/Scottsdale, San Diego, San Francisco, Seattle, South Florida, St. Louis, Washington D.C.

CANADA Calgary, Canadian Rockies, Edmonton, Halifax, Mississauga, Muskoka/Parry Sound, Ottawa, Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Whistler, Winnipeg EUROPE Budapest, London, Milan, Moscow, Paris, Rome, St. Petersburg

JUNE 2014 I W HERE THA ILA N D 35

21things_JUNE_2014_NEW.indd 35

5/26/14 6:10 PM


P.36 NokAir_Jun_2014.indd 26

5/26/14 6:13 PM


Turn static files into dynamic content formats.

Create a flipbook
Issuu converts static files into: digital portfolios, online yearbooks, online catalogs, digital photo albums and more. Sign up and create your flipbook.