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also be given a chance to showcase their vibrant flowers against a dense backdrop. The National Arboretum suggests planting under “widely spaced, high-crowned trees,” such as oaks or poplars, because azaleas do not tend to grow well under trees that have dense foliage, such as maples and pines. Once you’ve picked out your azalea, water the container well before planting. Dig a hole twice as large in diameter as the container and a couple of inches shallower in depth. It can be planted a bit higher than ground level, with soil brought up to the top of the root ball, because it will naturally settle, and also because this is a more effective method for planting in the heavy clay soil that we tend to have in our area. It is a good idea to add a few inches of mulch; any type will do, even pine needles, wood chips or leaves. Water it slowly and again the following day. Water at least once a week for several weeks. Well-established azaleas generally don’t need fertilizer, and for the most part, recent plantings won’t need the extra nutrients either. If you do fertilize, VCE suggests using a fertilizer specially formulated for azaleas, and doing so only in April or May. A fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants can be added to the surface before the mulch is laid. (Use no more than 2 pounds per 100 square feet, or follow directions on the package, VCE says). Although azaleas are among the hardiest shrubs, there are a few culprits that can cause an early demise. For new azaleas, too much water or poorly drained soil is the most likely cause. For wellestablished azaleas, those pesky voles can chew near the crown of the plant. But keeping mulch away from the trunk will discourage these critters. Weather can do its job, too. Big fluctuations in temperature can injure the bark, and long drought periods can cause fungal cankers to form on the branches. It is best to prune out these affected branches later in the summer. Azaleas can also suffer from the azalea lace bug, a black bug that likes to hang out underneath the leaves and in some cases cause the foliage to turn white. According to the National Arboretum, the insect reaches its peak in late summer and enjoys doing the most damage in sunny sites (another reason to choose some shade). Insecticidal soap, horticultural oil, or a systemic insecticide can be applied in spring when the first hatchlings are seen. Feeding damage can also be done by caterpillars, although unless there is an unusually large population, they will not kill the plant. Plucking them off is usually effective. R o a n o ke Va l l e y h o m e S p r i n g 2 0 1 3