WEDNESDAY, SEPTEMBER 10, 2014 • THE BULLETIN
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u e oun 'ssou ernwa erso ersoiu e By Craig Hill • TIre (Tacoma, Wash.) News Tribune
BOSTON HARBOR, Wash.f you don't count the pesky raccoon and the grazing deer, chances are pretty good you'll have Hope Island to yourself if you stay there on a weeknight. As the sun sets, you can still see the house lights
and heartheyapping dogs from theneighborhood across Squaxin Passage, but it hardly spoils the experience of having your own private island. "Hope Island is a great des- cruises that first year. But five years later, he's captain of an Olympia-based s tarting to w onder if m o r e 41-foot ketch c a lled C l ara people are starting to become June. "Seattle has Blake Island interested in exploring the and Winslow, but nothing like Sound's quieter waters. what we have down here." After booking 20 cruises Specifically, that sense of last year, he'd already booked solitude. 40 in early August and expectThe North Puget Sound and ed that number to climb to 60 its iconic boating destinations by the end of the year. "This has been the first year such as the San Juan Islands and Deception Pass cast a where we've felt like this could pretty large shadow over the actually be a business," Kramwaters south of the Tacoma er said. "... But I can't say how Narrows. much is the weather or how And while sailboats, kayaks much is something else." tination," said Rick Kramer,
and watercraft head north, those who head south find wa-
ters that are typically calmer and less crowded. "We're definitely overshad-
Cg
s
Chris Fry, owner of West
Bay Paddleboards, says his business has seen significant growth in recent years, too. Fry was on the front end
Photos by Craig Hill /The (Tacoma, Wash.) News Tribune
The North Puget Sound nnd its iconic boating destinntions such as the San Juan Islands and Deception Pass cast n pretty large shadow over the waters south of the Tacoma Narrows. And while sailboats, kaynks and watercraft head north, those who head south find waters that are typically calmer and less crowded.
owed," said Scott McHugh, of of the stand-up paddleboarding trend when he opened his shop in 2008. Six years later, here to Elliott Bay sometime. he says the South Sound's compare favorably to m o re You get to Tacoma and sud- calm waters are ideal for popular destinations in the denly the number of b oats learning the sport. North Sound. "Really, it's great for any hu"But everybody goes north," multiply. And they keep multiplying the closer you get to man-powered watercraft," Fry Campbell said. "Write about Seattle." said. "It's great paddling." the South Sound all you want. When Kramer and his wife, Ken Campbell, a Tacoma That's not going to change." Ada, started t h eir c h arter s ea-kayaking author a n d At Boston Harbor Marina, company, Mystic Journeys, long-distance paddler, used to visitors typically rent kayaks in Olympia five years ago, it lead guided tours at the Nis- for about two hours, McHugh was hard for them not to feel qually River Delta and other said. That puts Hope Island overlooked. Kramer was start- locations on the South Sound. out of reach for most, so ing to understand why others He's also paddled most of the McHugh says kayakers enjoy who'd opened similar busi- North Sound. paddling the calm waters and nesses in the Olympia area He says South Sound des- watching seals and gulls. " The calmer water is r ewere unsuccessful. tinations such as Jarrell Cove He says he booked about 15 and Hope Island state parks ally nice for people who are the Boston Harbor Marina. "Just take a boat ride from
McMicken Island: Drop anchor and hikethe short trail on the tiny island. Thestate park webHere are12 places worth visiting by boat in the site says the island is home to anactive bald eagle South Sound: nestandanabundanceofshellfish.parks.wa.gov Boston Harbor:For $2 you can makeasoftHnmmersly Inlet: Described by somepaddiers serve ice creamcone. The marina also has a as a saltwater river, this narrow inlet leads boaters surprisingly large selection of beer, thework of to Shelton. The currents can betricky and the Scott McHugh, the storekeeper andresident beer water can beshallow, so this trip is for the expeaficionado. Themarina also haskayak rentals and rienced. sells fresh fish, crab andoysters from its dock. Allyn:Paddle over from Jarreil Cove andyou Brunch buffet on the dock onSundaymornings and specialty brewers sharing their work at Friday won't feel guilty about devouring a BigBubba Super Burger, a1-pound Angusbeef burger covered night"Beer-B-Ques" on Friday nights through withbacon andcheese.bigbubbaburgers.com Sept. 19.bostonharbormari na.com Olympia:Visit Swantown Marina, rent a kayak Hope Island: The only way to reachthis island and eat breakfast at TugBoat Annie's. Visit the is by boat. A2-mile trail loops through the isiand's farmer's market or try yoga on astandup paddleforest. parks.wa.gov at West BayPaddleboards. syrantownmariJarrell Cove:An ideal place to be in the evening board na.com, tugboatannies.com, olympiafarmersmaras the sunset splashesvarious shades of pinks ketcom, yrestbaypaddleboards.com andoranges onthequietcove.ThereisoneCasAnderson Islnnd: With two freshwater lakes cade Marine Trail campsite here; otherwise you'll and quiet streets, the island can be arelaxing have to find a placeamongthe car campers. A getaway. Tacomasea kayaker andauthor Ken marina across the coveoffers plenty of supplies, Campbell recommends the island's loneCascadia a quiet place to relax andshavedice for the kids. Marine Trail camping area atCarlson Bay. wwta. parks.yra.gov olg Eagle Island:There's no camping allowed on HendersonInlet: An ideal place to paddle or this tiny island betweenAnderson and McNeil sail if you want to seeseals. You'll see dozens of islands, but it's easy to paddle to from Anderson them sunbathingontheiog booms, McHugh said. Island and anideal place for a lunch break for those making longer trips. parks.wa.gov Sqnnxin Island:Theisland is off limits, but paddling around it is a classic South Sound trip. Lnngbranch:Rick Kramer, owner of Olympia's If your map shows astate park on the island, you Mystic Journeys, says, "Longbranch is anice harbor to drop anchor in."longbranchimprovehaveanoldmap.Theparkhasbeenclosedsince mentciub.org the 1990s.
I DOZEN DESTINATIONS
O~ y .
inexperienced (kayakers),e McHugh said. "The wake from a bigger boat can really knock the stuffing out of a lit-
tle kayak." Although some boaters will
tell you Puget Sound can almost seem like a lake south of the Tacoma Narrows, that doesn't mean i t ' s w i t h out
challenges. The currents in Dana Pas-
sage south of Harstine Island can takepaddlers placesthey hadn't planned.
Fry said he got caught up in the Dana Passage currents on his paddleboard a few years ago. With big waves tossing him around, he had to drop to his
knees as he paddled toward calmer water.
Fry also enjoys the challenge of Hammersley Inlet. The narrow waterway leading to Shelton is known for
strong currents and should be attempted only by experienced paddlers. Shallow spots make it challenging for other boaters,too,K ramer said.
"You have to do your homework," Fry said. "If you go in
For stunning evening views and a quiet cove great for the whole family, Jnrrell Cove State Park is the place.
there at the wrong time, you
are going to be in trouble. But it really is a rush. A saltwater river. It is fun."
er said. rattled off McMicken Island, Despite the South Sound's Longbranch, Stretch Island
F ry typically puts in i n reputation for c al m w a t er, and a handful of state parks. Shelton and paddles nearly 20 Kramer says he's able to hoist "It's a special place." miles back to Olympia. the sails on about 75 percent "I've done it three times, and
I've been successful once," Fry sard.
Actually, he made it safely all three times, sometimes stopping for a break at Boston Harbor, but only once did he feel as if he timed the cur-
of his cruises. "But people are
happy either way," Kramer said. "There ar e
rents and weather just right so
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that the trip wasn't especially challenging.
LE F F E L GE N T E R
But that same weather that
can make paddling tough also makes for good sailing, Kram-
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places to explore in the South Sound," Kramer said as he
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