Suzani Reimagined
The Samarkand Collection
AlandmarktextilesexhibitioninParisledJools Cornell,founderofPukkaPrint,inanewcreative directionforthedesignofherlatestcollectionof luxurylinens,withinspirationtakenfromthewell wornsilkrouteofUzbekistanincentralAsia.
Influencedbytraditionalsuzaniwork,thenew SamarkandcollectionisPukkaPrint’sdebut screen-printcollection,withall fabricsprintedbyhandinIndia.
The acclaimed exhibition “On The Roads of Samarkand” opened in Paris in 2023, showcasing a range of unique renaissance works and treasures from the C19th and C20th on display for the first time outside of the museums of Uzbekistan. It was while visiting that Jools started to formulate the idea of translating the suzani motifs on display into her own fabric collection.
“I have always loved the joy of suzani - their playful motifs, cheerful colours and uplifting spirit,” says Jools. “They have a perfect, imperfect irregularity to them, embroidered patterns stitched by hand giving them real character that I find really comforting. It’s the interpretations of floral forms that I find so original and informal - the complete opposite of a botanical, life-like painting. It’s this disregard for formality but the appreciation and nod to pattern rhythms that really enticed me. I immediately recognised the potential for placing our next collection in the heart of the Samarkand exhibition - I felt the recurring motifs could translate well into block printing, Pukka’s usual mode, and so this got me wanting to experiment with patterns and colour combinations to see how I could make them relevant for contemporary interiors.”
Following months devoted to research and design development, Jools decided to work with a new textiles supplier based in Delhi, India and, imbued with the spirit of adventure, experiment with screen printing, a departure from block printing that Pukka Print traditionally uses. This allowed Jools to play with pattern scale, allowing motifs to easily be enlarged and manipulated - something that is quite limited by hand-blocks - adding a new series of larger, complementary prints to the collection.
‘Samarkand’ includes four new designs - Tulip Chain, Pomegranate, Pani and Diamond - in four different colour storiesPea & Rhubarb, Marine & Sepia, Lagoon & Bordeaux and Wave & Plaster. With a nod to the vibrant colour palettes used in traditional suzani work, Jools has worked to curated palettes that will layer happily into a range of contemporary interior styles and complement popular paint brands and aesthetics. “I’ve used a repeat edit of just four patterns across each of the colourways but I love how the colour palette in each story gives them completely different characters and creates a different aesthetic. From embracing the invigorating hot pink and bright green of the Pea & Rhubarb, to the calming Wave & Plaster that brings a calm, relaxed tone, I think this collection has something inspiring for everyone.”
The ‘Samarkand’ collection will be available from Spring 2025 with fabrics starting from £240 / $339 per metre.
Stockists
UK: Tissus d’Hélène - London
US: Wells Abbott - New York, Dallas, Houston & Chicago
US: Travis & Company - Atlanta I Evans & Sheldon - Washington I A&D Curated Studio - Palm Beach
France: Jules et Jim, Paris I Spain: Greco, Madrid
Australia: Elliot Clark - Melbourne & Sydney
SAMARKAND - Screen Print
Marine & Sepia
Pani I Tulip Chain I Pomegranate I Diamond
Jason Ingram
SAMARKAND - Screen Print
Wave & Plaster
Pani I Tulip Chain I Pomegranate I Diamond
Jason Ingram
SAMARKAND - Screen Print
Pea & Rhubarb
Pani I Tulip Chain I Pomegranate I Diamond
Jason Ingram
SAMARKAND - Screen Print
Lagoon & Bordeaux
Pani I Tulip Chain I Pomegranate
Jason Ingram
Forfurtherinformation,fabricsamplesimageryorinterviewrequestswith JoolsCornellpleasecontactadamcrudgington@gmail.comorT:+447564275285.
About Pukka Print & Jools Cornell I @pukkaprint
PukkaPrintwasfoundedbyJoolsCornellin2011followingalifelongloveaffairwithinteriors,textilesandprints. MovingheryoungfamilytoMumbaiandlivingtherefrom2011-2013,JoolsimmersedherselfinIndiantextilesandthe blockprintingtraditions.HavingfalleninlovewiththeoldChintzpatternsandcolouringproducedinIndiaoverthree hundredyearsago,Joolsdesignedherdebut‘Hema’collection,workingcloselyalongsidetheblockcarversandprinters inJaipur.ThislaunchedinLondoninMarch2013attherenownedTissusd’HélèneshowroominChelseaHarbour, andPukkahasgoneontoreleasetwelvecollections.
JoolsearnedadegreeinFashionandTextilesatBristolPolytechnicinthelateeighties,beforelaunchinghercareerin PR.InitiallyfortheinfamousLynneFranks,sheworkedwithawidevarietyofclientsrangingfromthesingerMichael JacksontoLaurentPerrierChampagne,beforemovingoutofLondonwithherhusbandinordertofocusonbringing upfourchildren.IndiathenbeckonedandfromthereJoolswasabletoindulgeherselfinatextiletraditiongoingback centuries.NowJoolsisbackinEngland,PukkaPrintistheculminationofyearsofdreams,ambitionandhardwork.