THE SPICE OF LIFE. Michael Price
Britain has one of the most diverse and
of microwave-ready meals. In my mind this
magical. One sniff and it transports me
vibrant food cultures in the world. From the
is tangible – and indeed, tasty – progress.
back 30 years to what seems like another
Jewish immigrants who brought fish and
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age. With the amazing diversity in our
chips to our shores; to the Bangladeshis
Food is always of paramount importance
culinary tastes and influences I wouldn’t
who created the now quintessentially
to newly-arrived immigrants as it serves
be surprised if my children, who will be
British curry houses; to the the Italians who
as an emotive link to what they have
steeped in global cuisine, didn’t have the
opened countless cafes and introduced us
left behind. In countries with long-
same experience from beef rendang, or
to barista, the panini, parmigiano reggiano
established food cultures the preparation
fermenting kimchi, and I find the idea of
and ‘on-trend’ ingredients such as nduja (a
and serving of food is the ultimate act
this incredibly exciting.
fiery spreadable salami from Calabria) and
of love. It is through food that a mother
burrata (an oozing soft cheese) which are
or, less frequently, a father, sustains and
I have previously written and spoken about
so beloved by hipster chefs.
nurtures their family, both physically
my great admiration for Doncaster market,
and emotionally. We all understand the
where I spend a lot of time talking to my
While Doncaster may not currently boast
meaning of comfort food, even avant-
suppliers. They offer a wealth of knowledge
any restaurants of great renown, we do
garde chefs such as Ferran Adria or Heston
about products; a knowledge which I’m sad
have a growing number of places preparing
Blumenthal seek to tap into these powerful
to say is becoming increasingly rare. Every
fresh ingredients with great care and
emotions. Indeed they even created a term
week I invariably get into a conversation
attention, very often grilled with some skill
for the high end gastronomy designed
with a Chinese lady buying a beautiful
over charcoal. They stand in stark contrast
to create that Proustian moment; “Auto
wild turbot or a Polish guy assessing
to the chain-pubs (of which, I think we can
Emotional Cuisine”. For me the smell of a
the quality of the pike. I have to ask the
all agree, there are already far too many)
roasting leg of lamb while I am chopping
person with the massive bag of mud crabs
who serve a depressingly familiar selection
mint to accompany it is quite simply
if they are using them for Singapore chilli