Good Food GUIDE
papacass's kitchen
Weighing Things Up
Papacass’s Kitchen, 10 Wood Street, DN1 3LH.
The Old Weighing Room, Leger Way, Doncaster, DN2 6BB.
It’s one of those odd Thursday afternoons when the office is eerily quiet, a constant downpour is blown horizontally against the windows, and up and down the country the wind is causing mayhem. In need of a pick-meup and with errands to run, I greet the cold and head into town with only one place in mind.
Why did I wait so long?
Slinking into Papacass’s Kitchen with my collar pulled up above my chin, I don’t even have to look at the menu. I order the soup, not knowing what flavour is on offer. Butternut squash and roasted red pepper, freshly made that day. I settle into a seat by the window and gaze out at the world, at people leaning into the wind and smokers braving the storm to get their fix. My soup arrives and it’s everything I need, piping hot and full of flavour. I eat a lot of soup through the winter and I can tell you, Papacass’s Kitchen serve up some of the best - each day a different batch, freshly made and served hot with a roll, from old favourites like mushroom or tomato to new concoctions like celeriac and Bramley apple (which is amazing, by the way). But don’t let me get hung up on the soup. All the food I’ve tried here is good, wholesome and fresh. From sandwiches and the salad bar to the daily specials, like stews and pies, this little cafe always cooks up a treat. They even do a massive breakfast. Why pay through the nose at one of the many chain coffee shops or bakeries when you can support local business, eat much healthier, nicer food and probably save a few quid while you’re at it? It’s small and friendly, with just a few tables, but the staff are lovely and genuinely care about what they do. Each day’s menu is designed around what produce they can get that morning and they even offer a takeaway service. What more could you ask for? As the wind howls I settle into the corner by the window. Elvis is on in the background and the rain taps along on the glass. I dip a buttery chunk of bread into my soup and take a bite - delicious, food for the soul as well as the belly. A must try. Ryan Madin @madin1991 Papacassis is open: Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm facebook.com/papacassskitchen @PapacassKitchen
The Old Weighing Rooms opened almost a year ago at Doncaster Racecourse and, until last month, I’d not paid a visit - despite it being within walking distance of my front door. So when I was looking for somewhere that wasn’t a pub or one of the usual suspects in the town centre (but close enough to home to do a runner if the date didn’t go well), this looked ideal. The restaurant is situated in a beautiful old 1920’s building at the racecourse where the jockeys were weighed before and after their races. It has been renovated to a high standard, although the slightly glitzy monochrome décor, mirrors sponsored by an e-cigarette company and ‘colour-popped’ photos may not be to everyone’s taste. But the food is what we came for, and the menu promises modern British cuisine featuring local ingredients - and it didn’t disappoint. I’m always wary of restaurants with a never-ending menu, so a choice of just half a dozen starters and eight mains (both with a vegetarian option) gave me confidence that everything would be freshly cooked. Our starters of Mackenzies smoked trout served with a potato & horseradish salad and wild mushroom & chestnut arrancini (fried risotto balls) were both beautifully presented and very tasty. Main courses of Wharfedale rump of lamb with lamb crackling & bean cassoulet and panfried sea bass with purple sprouting broccoli were equally good, although the side dish of mashed potato ordered to go with the lamb was probably too much as the portion sizes were generous enough. The service was spot on too – nice touch from the waiter as he was clearing away the starters asking if we wanted our main courses straight away or if we wanted to wait a few minutes to have a chat. When we dined they were serving the winter menu and I believe they have just launched the new spring menu, so that sounds like as good a reason as any to pay another visit. PS The date went well and I didn’t have to climb out of the gents toilet window after all! Steve Bates @DrMuttley
(Photo Credit: Warren Draper ©2014) (Photo Credit: Courtsey Doncaster Race Course)
Want to write for The Guide? Email your reviews to doncopolitan@gmail.com
31