French Guiana takes off: visit the Space Centre for a tour
See a billion butterflies Where? Michoacan, Mexico
From late October, the forests of Mexico’s central highlands turn orange – not due to any fall-colour phenomenon but the arrival of up to a billion monarch butterflies. They migrate from Canada to overwinter in the warmer climes of the Reserva de la Biosfera Mariposa Monarca, clustering on the trees and cloaking the forest floor; in March they leave for the long flight back north. See them from the sanctuaries at El Rosario, Sierra Chincua, Cerro Pellon and Piedra Herrada, where viewing platforms put you amid the clouds of butterfly confetti. While you’re in Mexico, try... Running with Tarahumara people, possibly the world’s best distance runners, in the Copper Canyon; diving into a cenote (sinkhole) in the Yucatán.
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Seek the source of the world’s longest river Where? Nevado Mismi, Peru
The mighty River Amazon is widely believed to spring from a snow-capped peak in the Peruvian Andes. Near Arequipa, on the flanks of the Colca Canyon, sits 5,597m Nevado Mismi. A glacial stream on this mountain was declared start-point of the world’s longest river in 1996, and a plaque now marks the spot. It’s possible to visit this significant spring, either on a 4WD trip or a longer hike, camping out amid the Andes en route. www.lata.org
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While you’re in Peru, try... Participating in an Inca ceremony at Machu Picchu; eating everything from guinea pig to gourmet cuisine in foodie Lima.
Watch the rituals of a distinct religion Where? Suriname
The Afro-Surinamese practice of winti is the result of centuries of cultural and religious blending, a mix of colonial Christianity and the beliefs of African slaves. Winti was long outlawed in Suriname – it was considered a dark art – but it continued to be observed in secret. Now it’s more openly acknowledged in this Dutch enclave of Latin America. If you can locate a winti ritual, be prepared: they can involve fire dancing, walking over burning coals, eating glass, chanting and trances. Dramatic stuff. While you’re in Suriname, try... Cruising to look for pink river dolphins; meeting the Maroons (descendants of escaped slaves) in the wild interior.
Marvel at meat Where? Uruguay
There are few countries that would seek World Heritage status for an abandoned meat factory. But Uruguay is one of those countries. In 2015, the Fray Bentos Industrial Landscape – a processing plant
dating to 1859, now a museum – was inscribed onto the Unesco list, which says something about the importance of beef here. Indeed, Uruguay has one of the world’s highest consumptions of beef per capita – probably because the beef here is so good. Visit Fray Bentos, then head to a prairie ranch to ride like the gauchos then eat divine steaks every night. While you’re in Uruguay, try... Taking a ferry between Argentina and Uruguay across the River Plate, the world’s widest river mouth.
Watch a rocket launch Where? Kourou, French Guiana
It might seem odd that the European spaceport is based in Latin America. But the coastal district of Kourou offers the ideal location. Being near the equator, near the sea and away from human habitation are all big pluses for sending rockets skywards. You can take a tour of the vast Space Centre, exploring from control rooms to launchpads. If you time your visit right, you might even catch a launch – book to watch it from the centre or head to Carapa Observation Site, 15km away. While you’re in French Guiana, try... Watching the Kali’na Games, a unique event contested by the indigenous Kali’na – sports include tree-climbing and spear-throwing. THE GUIDE TO LATIN AMERICA 11
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