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Welcome 216
WELCOME VERSION
Be dazzled by the multi-coloured facades of World Heritage listed Willemstad, Curaçao (p80); come face to face with a white rhino in Uganda (p64)
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A Cover image: View over Cartagena/ © Gary Tognoni/Alamy This page: Alamy
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s a traveller, I never expected a government-mandated colour scheme would become critical to choosing where I can go. Now, with the greenamber-red traffic-light system, the UK has joined many countries in dividing the world’s nations into three colours. Curiously, there are governments choosing black, white, grey, even blue in their effort to tone-translate ‘go’, ‘don’t go’ and – I guess – ‘maybe go’. At the time of writing, the designation of France as ‘amber plus’ is a shining example of just how bizarre and confusing the system has become. Here at Wanderlust, we always try to show our destinations’ true colours; indeed, we’ve ended up working with a much broader palette. Let’s take Uganda (p64) as an example: It currently features on the UK’s red list but if we could choose a colour to represent this underrated African nation, we’d go for a deep, verdant green. Thailand’s ancient cities (p104) still shine bright in gold and yellow hues, so perhaps its current ‘amber’ listing isn’t too far off the mark. Armenia’s architectural treasures (p50) often surprise travellers with their rosy hue, thanks to the country’s unusual, volcanic tufa stone, so our pick for this South Caucasus spot is dark pink. As for the many Caribbean nations highlighted in this issue’s travel planner (p80)… well, only a full kaleidoscope can represent the extraordinary variety of their cultural centres. There is still a valid case to be made for advising travellers where it’s safe (or not) to visit during this devastating pandemic. We’re not asking you to ignore the traffic-light system. Instead, we’re here to remind you about the plethora of colours our planet displays. So, when you can, and when it’s safe to do so, pack up your brightest bag and get back to exploring our polychrome world!
Bon Voyage!
George Kipouros Editor in Chief @georgiostravels
WANDERLUST: ‘the wish to travel far away and to many different places’ – Cambridge Dictionary
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TRAVEL SAFE
Travel during the pandemic is challenging, as is editorial coverage of destinations. While our expert writers strive to provide the most accurate information available, things can change on a daily basis. Please do double-check all practical information regarding your trips before making any bookings. Now, more than ever, we encourage you to book your journeys through reputable tour operators that can reliably help when plans have to change. We list a number of outstanding trip options on our Trip Finder tool, which you can access on wanderlust.co.uk/ trip-finder
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Contributors
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Wanderlust is brought to life by people from all over the planet. Here are some of the writers and adventurers who’ve crafted this issue – plus, we asked: which animal would make it into their New Big 5 (p152)?
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NICK RAY
EDDI FIEGEL
LYNN BROWN
ROB GOSS
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World Food: Cambodia
Double Bill: Spain
First 24 hours: Charleston
WanderSleeps: Tokyo
The prolific guidebook writer, film location manager and ecotourism consultant gives us a taste of Cambodia on p32. Which animal would be in your New Big 5? “The mountain gorillas of the Virungas. Working on an East Africa guidebook, I was fortunate enough to encounter them in Uganda, Rwanda and DR Congo between 1999 and 2006 and they are wonderful, complex creatures.”
The Telegraph and Guardian journalist fell in love with Spain during the three years she spent living there. This issue she offers her insider’s guide to a jointdestination stay in Salamanca and Segovia (p184). Which animal would be in your New Big 5? “Having seen elephants in Thailand, I’d include them. And also polar bears, as their fate is so entwined with our climate crisis.”
Lynn is a USA-based writer, professor and traveller whose work centres on issues of history, culture and place. For this issue she explored Charleston (p198) and found a city coming to terms with its complicated past. Which animal would be in your New Big 5? “I have a soft spot for jaguars after an ‘interesting’ encounter with one in the jungle outside of Manzanillo, on Costa Rica’s Caribbean coast.”
The Japan-based travel writer, editor and guidebook author – including the award winning Japan Traveler’s Companion – checks himself into Tokyo’s most attention-grabbing hotels for us on p44. Which animal would be in your New Big 5? “Japanese giant salamanders: they can grow to 1.5m long, live to 80 and, when threatened, excrete a white mucus that smells like sansho pepper.“
DR. GLADYS KALEMA-ZIKUSOKA
Epic Hiking Trails
Indigenous San Blas Islands
Caribbean Heritage Cities
Wanderlust Contributing Editor and freelance writer Sarah is author of A History of the World in 500 Walks, and is never happier then when hiking. She picks some epic routes on p124. Which animal would be in your New Big 5? “Waved albatross – watching up-close as these enormous birds performed their courtship ritual on the Galápagos Islands was like having front-row seats to a strange, bewitching ballet.”
Travel writer Nick has contributed to Wanderlust for almost 15 years, covering destinations such as Antarctica, Bangladesh, Iran and, on p192, Panama’s San Blas Islands, where he met the Guna Yala. Which animal would be in your New Big 5? “The mighty polar bear. Not only is it a privilege to see one in its natural habitat but capturing one on camera in a bold and creative way is no easy feat.”
A Caribbean specialist, Nigel has been visiting the region for 25 years – and covers it for us on p80. This year he’s hoping to see Guadeloupe by campervan. Which animal would be in your New Big 5? “The red panda, which I was lucky to spot in Singalila National Park on the India-Nepal border. Ridiculously cute, with a white face and flame-coloured fur, they’re well camouflaged for a solitary life high in the treetops.”
The New Big 5 Project
The founder and CEO of Conservation Through Public Health – helping people and animals co-exist in protected areas of Africa – explains the importance of this new conservation project on p152 . Which animal would be in your New Big 5? “The mountain gorilla. There are only 1,063 left in the world. We need to continue taking action to protect these great apes.”
SARAH BAXTER
NICK BOULOS
NIGEL TISDALL
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THIS ISSUE
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Get In Touch Twitter
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DISCOVER OUR NEWLY RE-LAUNCHED WEBSITE wanderlustmagazine.com
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Wanderlust is the UK’s leading independent travel magazine, taking the road less travelled since 1993. Paul Morrison and Lyn Hughes schemed the project on a flight to Ecuador, aspiring to produce a publication that combined the right mix of wildlife, activities and cultural insight. Twenty eight years later, Wanderlust is the oldest UK travel magazine still in circulation and it continues to inspire through impartial information and fresh ideas alongside original creative writing and astonishing photography. It has a distinct focus on highlighting off-the-beaten-path experiences and bringing to light the most exciting destinations. Responsible, conscious and sustainable travel has been its modus operandi for the last three decades. It is always upfront about whether its writers have travelled independently or with a tour company and will never guarantee positive coverage to any of our advertisers. With a strong and rapidly growing digital presence, wanderlustmagazine.com delivers thousands of articles and attracts over 12 million visitors a year, alongside 150,000+ social media followers. ‘The Wanderlust Club’ maintains a community of serious travellers engaged 24/7. Wanderlust leads the way in the production of intelligent, inspirational travel stories. Its blend of exclusive features, practical reviews, unique insights, tips and ideas has won awards from respected travel and media industry bodies across the planet.
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General enquiries +44 (0)20 3771 7190, info@wanderlust.co.uk EDITORIAL CONTENT Editor-in-Chief George Kipouros @georgiostravels Founding Editor Lyn Hughes @wanderlust.lyn Managing Editor Tom Hawker Special Features Editor Rosie Fitzgerald @rosiefitzgerald Contributing Editors Sarah Baxter, Mark Carwardine, Paul Goldstein & William Gray DESIGN Art Director Graham Berridge Associate Designer Mike Wright Assisted by Scott Jessop (maps) DIGITAL Digital Creative Director Anil Karwal Digital Editor Sarah Riches @healthy_holiday
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© Wanderlust Travel Media Ltd, 2021, ISSN 1351-4733 Published by Wanderlust Travel Media, Capital House, 25 Chapel St, Marylebone, London NW1 5DH. All rights are reserved. Reproduction in any manner, in whole or in part, is strictly forbidden without the prior written consent of the publishers. All prices are correct at time of press. No responsibility for incorrect information can be accepted. Views expressed in articles are those of the authors, and not necessarily the publishers. Wanderlust is a registered trademark. US distribution Wanderlust, ISSN 1351-4733, is published bi-monthly and is distributed in the USA by Pitney Bowes International Mailing Services Inc as mailing agent. Periodicals postage paid at Kearny, NJ and additional mailing offices. Contributions & work experience For details, please go to www.wanderlustmagazine.com/about-us Printing Walstead Roche, Victoria Business Park Roche, St Austell, Cornwall PL26 8LX Newstrade distribution Marketforce (UK) Ltd: 0203 787 9001 Circulation marketing Intermedia Brand Marketing Ltd: 01293 312001
COMMERCIAL PARTNERSHIPS Partnerships Director Adam Lloyds (adam.lloyds@wanderlust.co.uk) Senior Creative Partnerships Manager Simon Bryson @_bryos Creative Partnerships Manager Lucy Bairstow PUBLISHING Chief Executive George Kipouros Chief Operating Officer Elliot Wellsteed-Crook Content Marketing Director Chris Johnson Wanderlust Club Manager Maria Manta HR Manager Bridget Bayford WITH SPECIAL THANKS TO Toula Sarri, Tasos Sarris, Zoe Pappa
In memory of Co-founder & Publisher Paul Morrison
Recent Awards
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ABOUT US
THIS ISSUE MAPPED VERSION
Contents
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196
32 ART
192 PRODUCTION
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188
CHECK IN
37 Gear
Arresting images, from sparkling Sydney to mountain gorillas
38 Armchair Travel
12 Viewfinder
18 Letters
You tell us about Greek islands and responsible Antarctic travels
20 Your Photos
Readers’ recent shots
22 Just Back From… Visiting Puducherry, India
JOURNAL
29 Grapevine New trails in the UAE, mermaids in Maryland and camping in Northumberland
32 World Food: Cambodia
India, China, France and ancient Khmer combine to create a diverse and delicious cuisine
35 Health
How to outrun DVT
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Versatile kit to cover your upcoming travel needs Podcasts, TV shows and books to get you on the road again
40 Arts & Crafts
Buy slippers, bird cages and mahjong tiles in Hong Kong
43 Dream Sleep
198
Stay at a Brazilian ecolodge helping to conserve the Amazon
44 WanderSleeps
Feel the post-Olympic glow at these top Tokyo hotels
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50 Dispatches
Immerse yourself in Armenia’s ancient spiritual heritage
56 Travellers’ Tales
Summitting the Matterhorn
60 Interview
Ray Mears on exploring wild China for his latest TV series
Map illustration: Scott Jessop
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Contents 216, 1 64
104
124
FEATURES
152
80
64 Uganda
With its rhino numbers on the rise, we visit the wildlife sanctuaries – and remote tribes – of this underrated chunk of Africa
192 Indigenous Culture Meet Panama’s proudly independent Guna Yala people
194 World Heritage
We scale Masada, Israel’s ancient desert fort
196 Top 10 Highlights
80 Caribbean Heritage Cities
Innsbruck’s royal history and elaborate architecture means that it’s not just for winter thrills
We look beyond the beaches to uncover a wealth of UNESCOacclaimed spots worth leaving the sun-lounger for
198 First 24 Hours in…
104 Thailand
…Charleston, USA. How the charming east-coast city is embracing its history
Jump aboard as we ride the Thai rails to visit ancient capitals and spiritual corners
200 British Break
124 15 Epic Walking Trails
Lace up for these lesser-known – but no less awe-inspiring – hikes, from Ireland’s Appalachian Trail to the edges of Australia
152 The New Big 5
The votes are in: a new quintet of creatures has been named the ambassadors for global wildlife
conservation. Find out which species, and where to see them
163 Western France
Feel the joy of slow travel on these three road-trips, which uncover the old villages, super scenery and gourmet cuisine that most tourists don't know exists
DISCOVER
Investigating the myths and hills of under-appreciated Shropshire
Set your sites on Segovia and Salamanca for a huge heritage hit, a stone’s throw from Madrid
Wandering the surprising Spanish-colonial streets of hardto-reach Vigan in the Philippines
We follow the roots and routes of US music across Tennessee
Hike up to the spot to gaze over scenic Seattle
204 Off The Grid
184 Double Bill
188 Hidden USA
210 The View From Above
Spitsbergen 152
Wrangel Island 152
Shropshire 200 Seattle 210
124 Alberta
Spain 184
Sierra Nevada 124 Tennessee 188
56 Matterhorn
198 Charleston 80 Caribbean
50 Armenia
South Korea 124
44 Tokyo
Masada 194
Uganda 64
India 152
40 Hong Kong 104 Thailand
San Blas, Panama 192 Botswana 152
Map illustration: Scott Jessop
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And get exclusive access to offers, competitions and events. See p116 for details
Chile 124
43 Brazil
South Africa 124
Australia 124
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VIEWFINDER
Lighting up Down Under, Vivid Sydney festival lights installations, Sydney, Australia
Sydney Harbour commands visitors’ attention at the best of times, with its iconic Opera House and Harbour Bridge. However, the Vivid Sydney creative festival shines a whole new light on the area – quite literally – with its harbourside after-dark illuminations transforming the buildings into an imagination-firing wonderland. Perhaps the best way to take in the spectacle’s scale is by boat; the ferries are also decked out in lights. But the installations are just one part of this annual event, which has been rescheduled to run 17 September-9 October 2021, due to COVID-19. Live bands and DJs take over secret and unconventional spaces, while there are also public talks, workshops and forums to facilitate creative ideas. While restrictions this year may make it difficult to see the lights in person, we’ll certainly be holding a torch for 2022. © 2019 Destination NSW; vividsydney.com
VIEWFINDER
Gazing on an uncertain future, Grauer’s gorilla, DRC
Photographer: Marcus Westberg A female Grauer’s gorilla notes incoming human visitors, that oh-so-human expression due to her sharing 98% of our DNA. It’s probably because we recognise so much of ourselves in these desperately endangered apes that so many of you voted for them to be one of ‘The New Big 5’, a global wildlife project to find the public’s favourite animals to photograph. “The project is a celebration of the incredible wildlife we have all over the world,” says lensman Graeme Green, who launched the project last year. “It’s also a way to get people talking and thinking about the wildlife we have and the threats so many animals face.” To find out more and who else made the list, turn to p152. © Marcus Westberg, courtesy of the New Big 5 Project. newbig5.com
VIEWFINDER
Celebrating the City of Columns, Catedral, Old Havana, Cuba
Visitors wandering around UNESCO-listed Old Havana can’t miss the wealth of heritage buildings – from the 16th-century Castillo de la Real Fuerza fortress and 17th-century Iglesia Santo Cristo del Buen Viaje to this, the 18th-century Catedral, which once held the remains of Christopher Columbus. One person who was captivated by Havana’s bold approach to art, music and architecture – as well as the blend of African, French, Spanish and North American influences – was Pamela Ruiz. Her new book of essays and images, Havana Blues, explores the cultural shifts that have shaped the capital – a fascinating primer to inspire your next Caribbean trip. © Buena Vista Images/Getty. Havana Blues (Assouline) is out in August 2021; £70. www.assouline.com
Letters 216
POSTE RESTANTE
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“We have so many ancient sites in the UK. Bryn Celli Ddu, Anglesey, and the Merry Maidens of Boleigh in Cornwall are some I have visited.”@dcrowe1974
Your mail and missives about glorious Greece, bottle-opening sunnies, memories of terrific trips past and the magazine’s ‘decadent’ new look...
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”If you’re heading to Hastings try to take in gorgeous Rye: steep cobblestones; old, tiny houses; cream teas, fish restaurants; a dungeon, castle and lovely church; sweeping views across Romney Marsh.” Liz Cleere
Greek getaway
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Kalimera! Fantastic to see Andros featured in the Greek Islands article (July/August 2021 issue). I’ve been going every year since 1998. I love it! Even though my country count is 47, including some crazy places like North Korea, Andros is where my heart is. The main thing that attracted me was that it’s very Greek, not an English pub in sight. I’ve taken many friends there over the years and they’ve all loved it for this reason, as well as the scenery, culture, food and simply everything about it. So I was horrified to see in your article that the island’s nickname is ‘Little England’. I’ve never heard this before. I understand the reason – shipping dynasties based in London – but thankfully it isn’t remotely like England. This is the main reason I’m so passionate about this magical place. I was distraught when I couldn’t go last year and have had to move my trip this year from July to September due to cancelled flights. Only 12 weeks and three days to go! Su Miller
Keeping travel alive
Just finished reading issue 214; it was absolutely fantastic. The photography is superb, each article enticing us to visit, or re-visit, a place. We’re in our 70s and have always had the wanderlust; during COVID-19 we’ve re-read our journals from wonderful holidays, which has kept us happy but we’re longing for holidays to begin again when safe. I’ve just checked the countries you featured in issue 214 and find we have enjoyed 17 of them, but still lots to discover. Dorothy & Pete Hoyle
fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk
Our own odyssey
I was very interested in your feature on Greek islands. My wife and I have been travelling to Greece for 25 years and my book, All Roams Lead to Rhodes, was published earlier this year describing some of our experiences. The thrill of arranging one’s own travel, the unspoiled beauty of some small islands and more remote areas of the mainland, and the warmth and generosity of the wonderful Greek people are things everyone should experience. Ian Gretton
Right to roam?
I’ve long wanted to visit Antarctica; I feel I can’t live my life without experiencing this unique landscape. However, in recent years it has struck me quite forcibly that travel is a privilege and not a right and I wonder about the ethics of visiting such
@wanderlustmag
“Fitting to be reading this on route to Cornwall: '5 best surfing experiences around the world', as the Olympics opens with a new surfing category. Thanks for the brilliant wanderlustmag round-up” @missemmathomas
a delicate wilderness. In the May/ June issue, your writer comments on the increased demand for cruises to the area and asks: can Antarctica sustain higher levels of tourism? Do you know of plans to restrict visitor numbers? If I knew such restrictions were in place I’d be much happier about visiting. When we are once again allowed to travel, I for one will be trying to make longer, less frequent trips. I’d really like to know I’m travelling to places where tourism has a positive impact on local people and wildlife. Nicky Handcock
@wanderlustmag
[On Wanderlust, issue 215] “I’m loving the new look. It feels like a very decadent read!“ Sarah Manuel
Unexpected encounter
I loved the unexpected wildlife encounters in the May/June issue and would like to share one of my own. Crossing the Australian outback mid-December in an old Nissan without air conditioning, we were passing through the red centre when, out of the blue (or should I say red), a camel stopped in the middle of the road for 40 minutes. My word it was hot! The camel, though, seemed to be as chirpy as ever. Esther Dickinson
wanderlusttravelmagazine
Drop us a line with your pics, thoughts, tips and travel suggestions, and help other travellers find their way
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Your Letters
SOCIAL TALK
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#wanderlustmag
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You’ve been sending us images of your summer trips and favourite adventures – tag us at #wanderlustmag on Instagram or email them to us at fromtheroad@wanderlust.co.uk
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“This razorbill escaped the overcrowding at Lunga island’s breeding sites during my visit to the Inner Hebrides in late June.” Jan Land
“This sleepy lioness was spotted during an evening game drive at the magical Hwange National Park, Zimbabwe.” Helen Hallik
“Your Brazil jaguars webinar brought back memories of my stay at Bolivia‘s San Miguelito Jaguar Conservation Ranch.” John Boyle
“Exploring Wrocław’s old town, I totally fell in love with the beautiful pastel-coloured buildings.” Adele Goulding
“I enjoyed a beautiful June day on the beach at Ballycastle, Northern Ireland.” Bernie Ramsay
“I hiked to the top of Western Australia‘s Frenchman Peak with family – a surreal and spiritual experience.” Holly Peters
“I never knew Botswana‘s lions liked sleeping in trees! Would love to go back...” Alison & John Lowden
“This young girl of the Lacandon tribe was playing in the trees in the jungle of Chiapas, Mexico.” Maria Whitehead MBE
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“At Namibia’s Valley of a Thousand Hills Lodge, I watched the sky fill with a million stars and the glow of the moon.” Ayed Tadros
20 September/October 2021
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Reader Pics 216
YOUR PHOTOS
Just Back From 216
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YOUR TALES OF... Summer misadventures
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“Having bought funky new luggage for a Sri Lankan trip, we picked our bag off the carousel and made the four-hour journey to the remote rainforest stay. It was late when we arrived and we tried to unlock our bag. The lock number didn't work. We had someone else’s bag.” Darren Bast
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“On a cruise ship off Colombia, all the power went down. We drifted for a couple of hours. It was really surreal – just bobbing in the ocean with nothing in view at all!” Julie Dore
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Puducherry
New Delhi-based subscriber Richard Barlow and his family visited Puducherry (Pondicherry) in southern India The highlights: Puducherry (formerly known as Pondicherry) is a seaside city combining French and Indian influences – it was a French colonial territory until the 1950s, as evidenced by the pillars, balconies and pastel colours of the White Town area. Its seafront is broad, traffic-free and ideal for strolling and people-watching. Puducherry is also home to the Sri Aurobindo Ashram, occupying over 150 buildings, all painted sea-grey with white borders. Must see: Auroville (aka the ‘City of Dawn’) is a UNESCO-commended experimental township a 20-minute drive north of Puducherry. Over 50 nationalities live together, each contributing to the community and promoting their crafts and produce. Auroville’s spiritual heart is the gold, spherical Matrimandir temple; you can enjoy the tranquillity of its grounds, but the temple itself is currently closed due to COVID-19 restrictions. Top tip: The Aura Store on Goubert Avenue offers yoga classes every evening. Proceeds from the store go to supporting the Ashram. The fish curry at Le
Chateau rooftop restaurant is the best I have eaten in south India – the flavours linger in the mouth long afterwards. Cautionary tale: Though Puducherry sits by the Indian Ocean, it is not a beach destination: the shore is lined with boulders and swimming is not allowed. For the chance of a dip visit nearby Serenity Beach or Le Pondy beach resort. I wish I’d known: That self-drive car hire is not a common option. We booked and pre-paid for a vehicle from a well-known car hire company, but no vehicle materialised on arrival at Chennai airport. Fortunately taxis for the three-hour journey to Puducherry are ubiquitous (£40). Anything else: The drive between Chennai and Puducherry has a number of worthwhile stopping points, including the UNESCO-listed temple complex on the Mamallapuram (Mahabalipuram) coast and the Madras Crocodile Bank Trust reserve just south of Chennai; this houses hundred of the reptiles, is well laid out and has been the recipient of UK Government Darwin Initiative funding.
“In Morocco with a friend, we two girls were followed by a menacing man who eventually chased us down an alleyway. Panicked and scared, I whirled around, shouted and pulled a mock martial arts pose. He put his hands up, said ’Whoa, chill...‘ and left. The moment he was gone, we burst out laughing. It probably only worked because I’m East Asian.” Mingyu Lin Go online to share your tales on next issue’s topic: ‘Worst travel companion’
Just got back from somewhere amazing? Email us at fromtheroad@ wanderlust.co.uk or visit us at wanderlustmagazine.com
Richard Barlow; Alamy; Shutterstock
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The writing's on the wall (clockwise from this) Wise words from ‘The Mother’, Auroville’s spiritual guru and founder;Puducherry’s colourful streets; the Matrimandir doesn’t belong to any specific religion
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Eco escapes (clockwise from this) Pen Pumlumon Fawr is the highest point in the Cambrian Mountains at 752m; lakeside shelter at Denmark Farm; spot dolphins from Mwnt’s sandy, secluded bay
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BREAK IN WALES
WORTH £500
VISIT WALES IS OFFERING ONE LUCKY WANDERLUST READER THE CHANCE TO STAY AT DENMARK FARM CONSERVATION CENTRE
W
ales is a land steeped in rich culture and wild landscapes, all packed into a country no larger than the USA’s state of New Jersey. The people of Wales know how important it is to protect their land and celebrate its rich nature, culture and history – which is where the Addo Pledge comes in. The Welsh word addo means ‘to promise’ and has become a pledge shared by locals and
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visitors alike to protect local communities, the environment and each other. It forms the backbone of four core values that promote responsible travel to visitors: leaving a positive impact, appreciating and respecting the landscapes, engaging with local businesses and communities, and going beyond the typical tourist track. Now, Visit Wales is offering one winner the opportunity to win a mini break to Denmark Farm Conservation Centre. Here’s what to expect...
A sustainable stay
Tucked in the foothills of the Cambrian Mountains in Ceredigion, Denmark Farm (denmarkfarm.org.uk) is a beacon of sustainable living. Everything here revolves around the unspoiled nature that surrounds it, not only enabling you to immerse yourself in the Welsh countryside but to learn how to preserve it, too. The main focus of the Centre is to boost the biodiversity of its 40-acre site but there is also a jam-packed roster of eco-
friendly courses for every kind of visitor to get stuck into. You can learn how to grow fruit and vegetables in your own kitchen garden, get to know your ash from your rowan on a tree identification course and even weave your own foraging backpack from willow. The self-catering eco-lodge is similarly green in its construction, with a living sedum roof, biomass heater and sheep’s wool for insulation. Every apartment has locally produced Welsh blankets and
Crown Copyright 2021 Visit Wales; ©Denmark Farm
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WIN!
A SUSTAINABLE SHORT
wood-burning stoves for further cosiness, while most of the furniture is also locally sourced, some of it even being secondhand to further reduce the impact on the environment. No eco-friendly stone has been left unturned – even the walls are licked with VOC-free paint.
SIGN THE ADDO PLEDGE Make your promise to Wales
Care for each other by washing your hands, maintaining social distancing and acting immediately if you feel unwell.
Cultural sites
Crown Copyright 2021 Visit Wales; ©Denmark Farm
Denmark Farm isn’t just an eco-friendly escape, it’s a great base for visiting some of the area’s most compelling sites. Just a 45-minute drive away in Aberystwyth lies the National Library of Wales; even before entering, you’re treated to a panorama of Cardigan Bay. Once inside, you’re fingertips away from a vast collection of over six million books, with one of the most distinguished being the 13th-century The Black Book of Carmarthen – one of the oldest existing Welsh texts written soley in the Welsh language. A revolving selection of exhibitions unravel more about Welsh culture, including contemporary photographs by Nick Treharne and printmaker Paul Peter Piech’s graphic works. For living history, drive half-anhour south-east to reach the ruins and intricately decorated tiles of 12th-century Strata Florida Abbey to learn of the church’s legacy. Once a Cistercian monastery, it’s been an important place of pilgrimage
for Welsh people for centuries and is a resting place for several medieval princes. Quite the contrast is Llanerchaeron, an elegant Georgian villa built in the Aeron Valley during the 18th century by architect John Nash as a pioneering self-sufficient farm. It’s remained remarkably untouched ever since, and has been growing fruit and vegetables for over 200 years, complemented by manicured walled gardens, stables and an ornamental lake.
A walk in nature
Nestled in the countryside, it’s no surprise that several of nature’s treasures are right on Denmark Farm’s doorstep. Boardwalks snake over the wetlands of bird-rich Cors Caron Nature Reserve, where you can spy swans, sparrowhawks and buzzards as well as otters, while
the 96km Ceredigion Coast Path – part of the larger Wales Coast Path – serves up a fine vantage point of Cardigan Bay. The bay is home to Britain’s largest population of bottlenose dolphins and a boat trip from New Quay is your chance to learn more about these marine mammals from experts onboard. Elsewhere, Mwnt is a hidden cove laced with caramel sands and backed by a grassy hillock – your ideal picnic spot to witness dolphins and seals. Inland, Bwlch Nant yr Arian Forest Centre is not only a gateway to lush valleys whose network of trails are a playground for walkers and mountain bikers, it’s also known for its daily tradition of feeding red kites – Wales’ favourite bird. Found in the Ystwyth valley, Hafod Estate is often touted as one of the most picturesque landscapes in Europe, and wandering its dramatic ravines, waterfalls and verdant woodland makes it easy to see why. This area, like the rest of Wales is so important to protect, so keep doing the little things that will make a big difference, and make your promise to Wales by signing the Addo pledge at visitwales.com/promise Enter the competition now for your chance to have your own eco-adventure in Wales.
Care for the epic land by leaving no trace, following the countryside code and avoiding crowded areas.
Care for the communities by enjoying the culture and language, buying local and booking ahead. Sign the pledge now: visitwales.com/promise
How to enter Visit Wales is offering one lucky reader the chance to win a £500 voucher for Denmark Farm. For your chance to win, simply answer the following question: How long is the Wales Coast Path? (A)700km (B) 1,400km (C) 2,800km To enter and for full terms, conditions and data policies, go to wanderlustmagazine. com/competitions. Closing date: 6 October 2021
To enter the competition, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/competitions
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Competition Wales, 1
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The Wanderlust Club has a great range of exclusive offers, competitions and events for our members – here are just a few. Already a member? Head to wanderlustmagazine. com/your-wanderlust to find out more. Missing out? To join the Club, turn to page 116
EVENT: WanderTales – A Virtual Tour of Kyoto (25 August)
The nanotechnology filter in these bottles means that you can fill them from any tap, stream or river in the world. Lightweight and practical, these are your perfect companion. We have 20 to give away. Water-to-Go are also offering members 20% discount in all their range.
We go live to Kyoto joining InsideJapan’s award-winning guides on an exclusive walking tour of Japan’s cultural capital. The network of tiny streets and traditional buildings just ooze ‘Japan’ and gives this city a very different atmosphere to anywhere else in the world.
15% OFF! Lorton & Horn travel wallets
20% OFF! Craghoppers
WIN! A full-day charter on a Norfolk Wherry
We love the Lorton & Horn range of quality travel wallets, organisers and other travel goods, and you will too. Made from high-quality vegetabletanned leather (vegan versions available), and in a range of desirable colours, they are not only incredibly practical but super-stylish too.
With innovative designs and technologies, and a strong sustainability ethos, Craghoppers offers versatile, lightweight, waterproof, insulating and sun-protective products for travel, whether out on the trail or pounding city streets. Craghoppers is offering 20% off on all online purchases.
Slowly sail along peaceful waterways for a day on a beautifully restored Edwardian Norfolk Wherry. The prize is a full-day charter with skipper and crew included. Take a group of friends or family and enjoy a slower pace of life on the Norfolk Broads. A unique opportunity to experience nature and sailing history.
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WIN! A Water-to-Go Active 60cl Water Filter bottle
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Grapevine
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World food: Cambodia
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Travel health
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Gear
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Armchair travel
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Arts & crafts: Hong Kong
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Dream sleep: Brazil
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WanderSleeps: Tokyo
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Dispatches: Armenia
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Travellers’ Tales: The Matterhorn Interview: Ray Mears
Illuminating Tokyo The 332m Tokyo Tower has loomed over the skyline for over 60 years. Visitors can get a view of this luminous landmark from a number of striking stays – to find one for yourself, head to p44
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journal
Armenian folklore, Amazonian stays and Cambodian cuisine head up our well-packed news and advice section
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What’s New
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The intriguing exhibitions, Middle-Eastern trails and UNESCO additions that are firing Wanderlust’s imagination
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Carry on camping
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Craving solitude? New company Wild With Consent has teamed up with landowners across Northumberland to grant campervanners access to remote, scenic spots. The best bit? Only one campervan is permitted in each location each night, which means you have that riverbank, farm or forest all to yourself. Sites include Shellacres, on the banks of the Till, and Scremerston Town Farm, which overlooks Holy Island. wildwithconsent.com
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Tall (and short) tales A Mermaid Museum is making a splash in Berlin, in the US state of Maryland. It explores how different cultures depict the mythical sea creature – variously known as finfolk (Norway) and ningyo (Japan). Expect records of ‘sightings’, some nudity and a bathtub you can climb into to pose with a giant tail. berlinmermaidmuseum.com Elsewhere, Paris is marking the 200th anniversary of Napolean’s death by hosting ‘L’Exposition Napoléon’ in the Grande Halle de la Villette (to 19 Dec). Meanwhile, ’In the Name of Napoleon’ (to 10 Oct) at the Pinacoteca Foresiana gallery on the Italian island of Elba – to which Napoleon was exiled – will commemorate him with art loaned from the Uffizi in Florence. expo-napoleon.fr; uffizi.it/en
Alamy; Andy Craig Photography
TAKE A HIKE Embrace adventure alone or as part of a team with Highlander this autumn. The hiking adventure group is launching its first Gulf expedition in Ras Al Khaimah, the northernmost of the United Arab Emirates. Highlander55 (18-20 November 2021) is a 55km trek up the UAE’s highest peak – 1,934m Jebel Jais – in the Hajar mountain range, which is home to purple lilies, medicinal Sidr trees, camels, wildcats and far-ranging views. highlanderadventure.com
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Take the high ground on a new stroll between Laax Dorf and Laax Murschetg in eastern Switzerland. Measuring 1.56km in length and teetering 28m high, the Senda dil Dragun (‘Path of the Dragon’ in Romansh) is the world’s longest treetop walkway. It also has a 73m-long spiral slide, four platforms and five discovery sites, where you can find out more about your surroundings through augmented reality experiences. flimslaax.com/en
U-Must-Go Sites
Dates for the Diary Kyoto, Japan – virtual event Wanderlust members can join this virtual walking tour, live from Kyoto, on 25 August. Find out more at wanderlust.co.uk/events
Riding the Trans-Siberian Railway is on many bucket-lists – but what about the Trans-Iranian Railway? The 1,394km route, completed in 1938, negotiates 360 bridges and 224 tunnels – and it’s just one of the sites newly inscribed onto UNESCO’s World Heritage List. The Slate Landscape of Northwest Wales also got a nod, for its importance in the transformation of Snowdonia’s mountains and valleys. Elsewhere in Europe, Germany did well, scooping up several new UNESCO designations, including for the artist’s colony in Darmstadt and the three cities of Speyer, Worms and Mainz, historically known for their Jewish culture, architecture and cemeteries. UNESCO also designated 11 towns built around natural mineral springs as a single ‘Great Spas of Europe’ World Heritage site – among them, the German towns of Bad Ems, Baden-Baden and Bad Kissingen, and Bath in the UK. whc.unesco.org
ADVENTURE OF A LIFETIME Antarctica’s Wolf’s Fang mountain was first spotted on a Nazi-funded flying expedition in the 1930s; since then, the area has been largely off-limits to all but a few scientists and elite climbers. But this November, luxury tour operator White Desert Antarctica is launching its second camp in the rarely visited region.
It comprises six heated tents, each designed for two people, decked out in leather chairs, animal hides and cosy blankets, and a separate tent for communal dining. Go ice-climbing, abseiling and fat-biking, then relax with a cocktail made with 10,000-year-old glacial ice. white-desert.com
Alamy; ©Marko Prezelj; LAAX/Philipp Ruggli
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Canopy capers
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A taste of ancient Khmer cuisine
Once home to the mighty Khmer Empire, it should come as no surprise that Cambodia has a culinary culture – centred around award-winning rice and freshwater fish – that’s as mouthwatering as anything its larger neighbours have to offer
Words Nick Ray
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roots, holistic herbs and aromatic tubers that give the soups, salads and stews their unique twist, distinct from the culinary heavyweights of Thailand and Vietnam. Rice is the main staple of the national diet and Cambodia’s Malys Angkor fragrant rice has won the World’s Best Rice award several times in the past decade. Rice is so central to the diet that it gives us the Khmer word for ‘eating’: nyam bai, or literally ‘eat rice’. Sitting down to a Cambodian meal, guests should be aware that it almost always includes a samlor (traditional soup), intended to be shared communally, along with the other principal plates. Samlor mcheu kreung (a subtle sour and spicy soup with pork ribs) is popular, as is the divine tuk kreung, almost a dipping stew to feast on with fresh vegetables.
Freshwater feast At least 149 species of fish have been recorded in Tonlé Sap lake, some of which find their way into the country’s unique dishes
Morgan Havet/Hanuman Films; Alamy; Dreamstime
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ambodia was an important crossroads on the ancient Maritime Silk Road that connected India and China via modern-day Malaysia and Indonesia. This is why visitors discover so many diverse flavours blended into its unique culinary palette, ranging from aromatic curries to fresh spring rolls with a sprinkling of Gallic influence along the way. Freshwater fish makes up a significant element of the Cambodian diet thanks to the natural phenomenon that is the Tonlé Sap lake, the largest in South-East Asia. Together with the Mekong River, the endless waterways of the kingdom deliver a bountiful catch that is fermented into prahoc (fish paste), a vital ingredient of many regional dishes. This is complemented by a creative combination of earthy
5 DISHES YOU SHOULD TRY (AND WHERE TO TRY THEM) crab with pepper 1 Wok-fried
Kep is famous for its succulent crab and Kampot is renowned for its aromatic pepper. Put the two together at the Crab Market in Kep and you have one of Cambodia’s most delectable dishes. Kampot pepper has a UNESCO Geographical Indication like Champagne in France and is prized for its unique flavour. Try the fresh green peppercorns or the ground black pepper – both complement the crab to perfection. Kep’s Sailing Club is a popular sunset spot or go local with a visit to Kimly Restaurant in the Crab Market.
2 Naom ben chok noodles
These thin, hand-made rice noodles are like vermicelli and are served with a fragrant fish broth or a deep red curry with chicken and sweet potatoes. The garnish is a work of art and comes with everything
from banana blossom to lotus root and includes a selection of edible flowers such as the purple water hyacinth. Try this dish in the village of Preah Dak, about 16km from Siem Reap, on the road to the temple of Banteay Srei.
3 Fish amok
Arguably the stand-out candidate for a national dish of Cambodia, fish amok is an aromatic mild curry steamed in banana leaf. The subtle blend of flavours comes from the kreung (paste) combination of herbs and spices that is key to Khmer cuisine and includes lemongrass, garlic, shallots, turmeric, galangal, lime leaves and a hint of chilli. Malis Restaurant in Phnom Penh, owned by celebrity chef Luu Meng (who’s cooked with everyone from Gordon Ramsay to Anthony Bourdain), serves a beautifully presented trio of amok.
4 Bobor porridge
This rice-based porridge is the closest thing to a must-have breakfast in Cambodia, but can be a healthy meal at any time. Plain bobor is flavoured with dried fish and pickles; more inviting is fish or chicken bobor with additions such as vegetables, dried garlic or pickled ginger. Find it in local markets for less than a pound a bowl.
salad with freshwater shrimp 5 Pomelo
Kratie is a somnolent town on the Mekong that draws visitors to spot rare Irrawaddy dolphins. Opposite the town lies the island of Koh Trong, a rural idyll known for its pomelo orchards. Visit a homestay or restaurant to sample fresh pomelo salad with Mekong shrimp, a popular delicacy found all over Cambodia and the perfect complement to a bubbling curry or soup.
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Eating insects is set to be the next big thing in sustainable food. However, Cambodia is already leading the way in creepy-crawly cuisine – deep-fried tarantulas are a speciality, as well as wok-fried beef with basil and red tree ants. Anyone for crickets? There are plenty of those too, the perfect snack to go with a draft Angkor or Cambodia beer.
WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Go on a video adventure through Cambodia’s cuisine – learn about the different regional dishes and see how they're made – with Taste Cambodia. wanderlust.co.uk/ worldfoodcambodia
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Health DVT 216
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Clot caution
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The link between long-haul flying and deep vein thrombosis (DVT) has long been known, but how can you reduce your risk? Dr Jane Wilson-Howarth gets to the heart of the matter
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n 1946, a doctor flew between Boston and Venezuela, a journey that took 14 hours. He suffered a deep vein thrombosis and decided that the long flight was the cause. Around the same time, a higher than expected incidence of clots was noticed in people sleeping in deckchairs in the London Underground during the Blitz. So the phenomenon of clots forming during immobility – especially when immobile in the sitting position – and the link between long flights and thrombosis has long been recognised. Why is there this association? Blood is designed to clot when it comes into contact with air but, even when it is inside the body, a range of factors can make it clottier – sometimes disastrously. The heart pumps blood out into thick-walled arteries under pressure so that it can permeate every organ and muscle, even at the extremities. It then trickles through the tissues and is collected in increasingly larger veins on its way back to the heart and lungs. Veins are thin-walled and contain non-return valves so that when muscles contract, the veins within are compressed and blood is squeezed along, the valves ensuring that blood flows towards the heart. This pumping action works well during walking and other normal activities but not when immobilised in a seat on an aircraft. When the body is in such a position, blood will not flow well in the veins; it stagnates and this increases the tendency to clot. Any flight of 5.5 hours or more, or multiple short flights within several days, increase the risk of clotting significantly. This is why it is good to do calf- and thigh-tensing exercises onboard the aircraft, especially if travelling long-haul.
HOW TO REDUCE CLOT RISK WHEN FLYING
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• Keep well hydrated; if you do drink alcohol, keep it to a minimum • Move around often • Do exercises that mimic walking including calf tensing • Wear loose clothing… • …But consider wearing flight socks, especially if a relative has had a clot or you are over 50 years old
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• Immobility • Age (over 50, and significantly over 80 years) • Cancer • Following major surgery or serious leg injury, leg fracture, hip or knee replacement, or varicose vein stripping in the previous 12 weeks • Having had a clot before • People with a close blood relative who has experienced a clot • Severe obesity • Height (both very tall or very short people are at increased risk as airline seats inhibit blood circulation) • Taking the combined oral contraceptive pill or HRT
Note, reports suggest that the AstraZeneca and Johnson & Johnson COVID-19 vaccines slightly increase the clot risk. It occurs at the rate of 14 per million first doses. Both vaccination and flying are safe, but being informed reduces even tiny risks.
Dr Jane is at www. wilson-howarth.com and @longdropdoc
Alamy; Shutterstock
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RISK OF DEVELOPING
THE RISK OF A BLOOD CLOT INCREASES WITH:
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WIN! £500 WORTH OF ROYAL ROBBINS CLOTHING
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hether you’re eagerly dusting off your passport or staying closer to home this autumn, the latest collection from Royal Robbins will help you be ready for any kind of adventure, offering the quality needed for being out in the wilderness and the smartness needed for city exploration. To celebrate the launch of its clever, stain-resisting ‘Spotless’ fabric into the men’s line, Royal Robbins is offering one Wanderlust reader the chance to win £500 worth of Royal Robbins clothing of their choice. Here are some of our favourites from the Spotless collection...
Women’s Spotless Traveller Tank Dress
This cool, comfortable dress is made from a Bluesign®-approved soft, stretch fabric that’s crease resistant, packable, easily adjustable and features handy security-pockets. The Spotless fabric’s HeiQ Stain Away technology ensures potential stains are kept at bay.
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Women’s Spotless Traveller Cargo Pant
Whether by bike or foot, forest trail or city street, these do-it-all cargo-pants are a practical addition to your travel wardrobe. They can be worn multiple ways thanks to the convertible leg-endings and removable belt, while the Spotless fabric means you don’t need to worry about spills or splashes, either.
Men’s Spotless Short
These classic knee-length shorts are durable and technical enough for a day of hiking, yet smart enough to wear to dinner in the evening. The first men’s shorts with Royal Robbins’ HeiQ Stain Away technology, they’ll stay looking pristine for longer to help keep your packing-list to a minimum.
Men’s Spotless Plaid Short Sleeve With a classic button front and plaid pattern, the Men’s Spotless Plaid Short Sleeve shirt offers exceptional performance while you’re out exploring and also keeps you looking at your very best. The stain-resisting shirt will
keep you cool, is quick-drying and even offers UPF50+ protection.
About Royal Robbins
Royal Robbins was founded by Liz and Royal Robbins, pioneers in the golden age of climbing. The pair made clothing designed to go everywhere and 50 years later, the company still does just that.
HOW TO ENTER
Royal Robbins is offering £500 worth of clothing. To enter, answer this question: What activity were Royal and Liz Robbins known for in the 1960s? A) Rock climbing B) Kayaking C) Hiking To enter and for full terms, conditions & data policies, visit wanderlustmagazine.com/ competitions. Closing date: 6 October 2021
Explore the full Royal Robbins collection at royalrobbins.com
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Z fc Mirrorless Camera, £899 (body only) Combining a classic ‘heritage’ design with advanced modern features, the new Nikon Z fc is compact and lightweight – perfect for travel. It promises simplified operation and a wide range of easy-to-use features enabling even amateurs to take photos like a pro. nikon.co.uk
WATER-TO-GO
Active 60cl Water Filter Bottle, £30 We love Water-to-Go’s bottles with their 3-in-1 filter, which means you can fill them from any non-saltwater source in the world. The new Active 60cl has a squeezable body and single-handed click lid, making it perfect for walking, cycling and travel. watertogo.eu
SAMSONITE
Magnum Eco Spinner, from £159 We knew there must be a good use for used yoghurt cups! Samsonite’s new Magnum Eco range of hard-shell wheelie bags is as stylish, durable and lightweight as you would expect from the luggage brand but is made with recycled plastics. Various sizes available. samsonite.co.uk
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YOGAMATTERS
Eco Travel Yoga Mat, £35 Forget having to Downward Dog on questionable carpets or rough ground. Super-light (only 750g) and ultra-thin (1mm), this funky mat folds easily into your luggage. Made from sustainably harvested natural tree rubber, it is both recyclable and biodegradable and offers superior grip. yogamatters.com
TROPICFEEL
Shell Backpack, from £218 The waterproof Shell combines the ergonomics and benefits of a large rucksack with the portability of a daypack. Its compartmentalised design and built-in compression system allows it to shift between 22L and 40L capacity while keeping everything organised and easily accessible. It’s made of recycled material too. tropicfeel.com
UNIBANK
Power Bank, £90 The award-winning Power Bank can be charged conventionally via USB but also by pulling its cord – 90 seconds of pulling will generate enough juice for 25 minutes of talk time on a smartphone. It’s versatile too, with its range of optional attachments including a portable light, panic alarm and Bluetooth speaker. unibanktm.com
Words: Lyn Hughes
6 handy picks for your next trip Variously lightweight, easy-to-use, foldable, recyclable and versatile, these great bits of kit solve problems you didn’t even know you had www.wanderlustmagazine.com 37
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Three men explore India, central China and the south of Italy, Spain and France on three adventures – and with three very different purposes
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ost people don’t do that kind of thing with no explanation,” laughs Rupert Grey’s daughter at the start of Romantic Road (from September, romanticroadmov. com). She’s talking about her parents’ scheme to drive their 1936 Rolls Royce 6,500km north from Mumbai and then across India to Bengal, with the documentary providing a street-eye view of some the country’s little-visited rural areas. The eccentric ‘toff’ Grey somehow manages not to turn himself into a post-colonial horror; the Grey’s openness to the locals, drawn to the historic motor swerving in and out of traffic, makes the couple an engaging focal point – with Rupert even getting roped into appearing as the bad guy in a local movie – while the Rolls is as temperamental as any ego-driven star. However, pitfalls are avoided in Write Around The World (BBC iPlayer), Richard E Grant’s journey of European regions celebrated (or otherwise) in famous
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literature. What could easily be a hammy book-reading tour through southern Italy, Andalusia in Spain and in southern France is given verve by Grant’s mischievous charm and genuine interest in the places he’s exploring, providing visual and historic context for the stories – such as the dividing tunnel from the Italian novelist Elena Ferrante’s Naples – while diving into the local culinary specialities. Ray Mears finds himself travelling further afield in Wild China (ITV Hub). He heads out into the likes of Sichuan Province, the Tibetan plateau and the Li River in search of China’s unusual flora and fauna; while there he experiences elephants, giant pandas and brown bears, and even has an encounter with a pair of snow leopards stretching across the rocks. He also gets to see China’s conservation schemes in action, providing an insight on how these projects work to aid locals and the endangered wildlife that trouble them, to ensure they co-exist safely. No explanation needed.
Road trip (from top) Romantic Road sees London lawyer Rupert Grey and his wife Jan interact with locals as they cross India in a battered Rolls Royce en route to a human rights festival in Bangladesh; Richard E Grant explores parts of Europe that inspired authors such as Robert Harris
Words: Tom Hawker/Lyn Hughes Images: Blue Dolphin; Storyvault/BBC; Mark Wiens
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Rolling through India
Read this! Black Girls Take World By Georgina Lawton
£13, Hardie Grant What’s it like to travel the world solo as a Black woman? As well as travel tips on eating alone, this book addresses the issue of passport privilege. It also features interviews with the plus-size Instagrammer Annette Richmond from Fat Girls Traveling; Rhiane Fatinikun, who founded the Black Girls Hike group, and Jessica Nabongo, the first Black woman to travel to every country in the world.
Winter Pasture By Li Juan
£25, Astra House What inspired Li Juan to join Kazakh herders on their annual migration from Ulungur River to the Heavenly Mountains? Even she’s not sure once the sub-zero weather kicks in. However, her warmyet-scalpel-sharp observations depict a fading lifestyle, a growing generation gap and vast, rugged landscapes.
West with the Light By Brian Jackman
£10, Bradt Travel Guides Having spent an estimated three years of his life under canvas in the African bush, Brian Jackman’s autobiography recounts a lifetime of nature adventures – charting the changing post-war travel industry as he does so.
Words: Tom Hawker/Lyn Hughes Images: Blue Dolphin; Storyvault/BBC; Mark Wiens
Windswept: Walking in the Footsteps of Remarkable Women By Annabel Abbs
£17, Hodder & Stoughton A series of trails – from Scotland to Texas – are the opportunity for Abbs to reflect on the women who once walked them, and the reasons why they strode out into what was regarded as a strictly male preserve. Not only do we get an insight into influential creatives such as Gwen John and Simone de Beauvoir, but Abbs’ own reflections on the trails today.
Life Lessons From the Amazon By Pip Stewart
£10, Summersdale Following her gruelling world’s-first 1,014km journey following Guyana’s Essequibo River from source to sea, Pip Stewart bring home with her a lot of life lessons and a flesh-eating disease. She shares the story of her encounters with caiman, jaguars and the indigenous Waî Waî community – and the life-changing perspectives that the experience gave her.
Park Life: Around the World in 50 Parks By Tom Chesshyre
£17, Summersdale The one thing the pandemic has taught us is to appreciate our green spaces more – and Tom Chesshyre is no exception. This timely guide to a half-century of urban escapes will not only add dozens more to your to-do list, but help you appreciate your own little local wonder a little more, too.
Sustainable Travel By Holly Tuppen
£18, White Lion Publishing How can we see the world without ruining it at the same time? Holly Tuppen answers that difficult question positively but realistically, helping travellers understand the underlying causes of climate change and the ways they can tackle the issue on their own journeys. It’s an illuminating read that shows how travel be a force for good.
Great Cities
£25, Dorling Kindersley (DK) DK bring its strong visual flair to this overview of 50 culturally and historically important cities, ranging from Cusco, Athens and Persepolis – to the modern metropolises of LA, Dubai and Tokyo, with another 50 key cities rounded up in brief.
Foodie Forays If you love world food and haven’t come across Mark Wiens yet, join the eight million subscribers on his YouTube channel in which he seeks out the best local dishes and street food from around the world. A food-obsessed American, Wiens lives in Bangkok so, not surprisingly, Thailand features heavily in his reports. However, his huge archive of videos include Pakistan, Cambodia, Bali, Mexico and many more interesting corners of the world. Never afraid to be filmed stuffing his mouth with huge portions of local cuisine, what we can’t understand is how the ever-enthusiastic and hungry Wiens stays so slim.
PODCAST PARADISE With the evenings starting to draw in again we find we’re listening to more podcasts. Our current faves include You Should Have Been There by Simon Calder and Mick Webb, Big Travel Podcast with Lisa Francesca Nand and Travel Diaries from Holly Rubenstein. For more ideas see our story, 20 of the Best Travel Podcasts, on wanderlustmagazine.com and listen out for Wanderlust’s podcast coming soon.
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Arts & Crafts HK 216
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Delve beyond Kowloon’s shopping malls and you’ll find traditional artisans designing authentic keepsakes that are well worth keeping
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Once a status symbol, slippers have been worn in Hong Kong for centuries. Traditionally, women embroidered silk at home with dragons, phoenix and goldfish, or floral patterns such as blossom, which was then shaped into footwear by men. A single pair can take several months to create.
2 JADE PRODUCTION
‘Gold has a price, but jade is priceless’, according to a Chinese proverb. Valued by emperors and kept as heirlooms, jade is sourced from the Kunlun Mountains in the north-west of China. The durable gem is believed to bring good luck and prosperity and to ward off ghosts, and it is treasured as a symbol of purity.
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BIRDCAGES
The practice of keeping birds as pets – and taking them for a walk in their cage – dates back to the Qing dynasty, in the mid 1600s, and remained a popular hobby, particularly among Hong Kong’s elderly male community, into the 1990s. However,
laws introduced after the 1997 outbreak of bird flu has killed off demand and today making birdcages is a dying art.
4 PORCELAIN
After the Portuguese established trade routes in the East in the 1500s, hand-painted Cantonese porcelain became popular with Europeans, which resulted in a blend of Western and Chinese designs. Birds, flowers and butterflies were typically painted and transferred on to white porcelain, which was then baked in a kiln.
5 MAHJONG TILES
While the rules of this Chinese game vary, four people usually play mahjong with 136 or 144 tiles, selecting and discarding them until they form four sets and a pair, a little like the Western card game of rummy. Traditionally, bone or ivory tiles were engraved by hand and then painted with red, black, blue or green Chinese characters, numbers and images such as flowers, birds and sticks of bamboo.
WHERE TO BUY… Slippers
Browse antique slippers in Cat Street Market near Sheung Wan, or seek out Sindart in Jordan (an area in Kowloon), which opened in 1958. The shop is now owned by the founder’s granddaughter, Miru Wong, who teaches embroidery in weekly two-hour workshops. Sindart1958 is on Facebook.
Jade The Jade Market
in Jordan sells affordable jade of variable quality, while shops on Hollywood Road sell antiques. Genuine jade is translucent, heavy and cold; check authenticity on jadeitelaboratory.com.hk. Ava Chan runs jade jewellery making workshops. avachanandjewellery.com
Birdcages
Chan Lok Choi learnt the trade from his uncle in the 1950s. Watch him shaving bamboo, soaking it in hot water then moulding it in Yuen Po Street Bird Garden by Prince Edward Road.
Porcelain When Yuet
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Tung China Works opened in Kowloon Bay in 1928, it was Hong Kong’s first handpainted porcelain factory. Join a workshop led by the founder’s grandson, Joseph Tso Chi-Chung, or make or paint a teapot at Tung Yao Ceramics in Sheung Wan. porcelainware.com.hk; tungyaoceramics.com
Mahjong Cheung
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Shun King learnt to carve tiles from his father. Watch him at work at Biu Kee Mahjong (on Facebook) in Jordan – a single set takes a week. You can also learn to play it in a local’s home; book through Humid with a Chance of Fishballs (on Facebook).
Words Sarah Riches Images Shutterstock; Hong Kong Tourism Board; Alamy
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EXPERT ADVICE ON BUYING TRAVEL INSURANCE POST-COVID
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battleface’s Sasha Gainullin explains how to get the most out of your policy
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How has the pandemic changed travel insurance policies?
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“A one size fits all policy no longer works. Pre-pandemic, the travel insurance industry had not kept up with the way people were travelling – essentially all travel insurance policies were the same, with a lot of exclusions. We developed policies to meet the needs of today’s travellers. When government travel advisories changed – as the pandemic hit – battleface policies kept protecting travellers when others did not. We were also one of the first companies to come out with COVID-19 medical protection.”
What happens to your travel insurance if the country switches from the green or orange list to the red list?
“battleface insurance policies remain valid irrespective to changes to the Department of Transport’s traffic light list and changes to FCDO advice.”
What are the main things travellers should look out for before booking travel insurance?
“Every international trip has its own unique risks and challenges, depending on the destination and planned activities, so making sure all eventualities are covered by your travel insurance policy is essential. Medical and other emergencies typically wrack up the most costs, so ensuring your policy gives you access to 24/7 medical assistance and/or be brought home is essential. In addition, you should look out for the following: Medical expenses and • emergency evacuation. Accidental death and • permanent total disability.
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Why should travellers consider booking with battleface?
Baggage loss or delay. Personal money and passport. Trip cost cancellation. Personal liability.”
How much should travel insurance cost?
“battleface insurance is simple, effective travel insurance built just for you. It is flexible too – you can buy policies if you are already travelling.”
“Price should not be the only factor when deciding on your travel insurance. The cheapest option may not offer the best value or might have a high excess, for example. At battleface we’re always tracking the global travel ecosystem to ensure we’re covering the right risks at the right rates.”
How long does it take to get insured?
“With battleface you can buy effective travel insurance in just a few clicks.”
If you had to give someone one piece of advice on booking travel insurance, what would it be?
“Make sure you have adequate insurance for your destination; the activities you’ll be doing; the length of trip and any pre-existing medical conditions.”
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Cristalino Lodge, Brazil
So much more than a place to stay, this enclave of ecotourism in the southern Amazon offers a complete wilderness immersion and the chance to help protect the surrounding, hugely biodiverse environment Reviewed by Lyn Hughes
Cristalino Lodge
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he transfer to Cristalino Lodge from the airport at Alta Floresta starts conventionally enough, as a minibus takes you out of town and through bucolic scenes of grazing white cattle and fields of crops. But then you pass through a gate and the effect is like walking through the wardrobe into Narnia. Here, a boat waits to take you on the 30-minute ride to the lodge, along the Cristalino River. The water is strikingly dark and clear. And there are trees, lots of them – pristine forest cloaks both sides. You may see monkeys and some of the 600-plus species of exotic birds found here before mooring up at the walkway that leads to the lodge itself. Cristalino Lodge, in the southern Amazon, is a beacon of sustainability. Accommodation is in wooden bungalows with natural ventilation, rather than air-conditioning, and powered by solar energy. The food is organic and local, and recycling is taken seriously. The restaurant is lit by candlelight at night; afterwards, you can retire outside to have a drink by the open fire while gazing at the stars. While the accommodation is comfortable, guests come for the nature. The lodge sits within a Private National Heritage Reserve; originally 700 hectares, it now covers an area of over
11,000 hectares, adjoining the Cristalino State Park and part of a patchwork of reserves and protected land. It was set up by the visionary conservationist Vitória da Riva Carvalho, who became concerned by the levels of deforestation she could see happening. She dreamed of opening a lodge that would attract people who’d help conserve the environment. She has certainly succeeded – the land is now preserved for perpetuity. Education, research and monitoring for illegal activities are all part of the work here. But it is ecotourism that funds this. There are around 30km of trails, and guided walks lead through the forest to bamboo groves, walking palms and huge Brazil nut trees, hundreds of years old. Don’t miss a pre-dawn walk to the 50m-high observation tower, from where you can watch the sun rise over a sea of endless forest, a ribbon of furling mist delineating the river. And then there are the activities on the river itself. Canoe and boat trips really do make you feel like an explorer. A sunset boat trip to watch egrets roost, before a stroll on a deserted river beach, provides the perfect finale to a stay. Rates from £799 per night for two, all-inclusive; cristalinolodge.com.br/en
Rainforest retreat (clockwise from left) The lodge bar is the place for after dinner drinks; the reserve is teeming with life, including white-nosed saki monkey; Cristalino‘s two towers are located at key points in the reserve and allow guests to view the different layers of the forest
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Tokyo’s 8 best sleeps Inspired by the Olympics? Then book a room with a view (or just a capsule bed) at one of the Japanese capital’s choicest hotels Reviewed by Rob Goss
RITZ-CARLTON, TOKYO
Located on the upper floors of the 53-storey Midtown Tower in bustling Roppongi, everything at the Ritz-Carlton comes with incredible city views: that includes treatments at the spa or dinner at restaurants like the Michelin-starred French-focused Azure 45. Rooms, not surprisingly, are sleek and spacious, while the location in Midtown is close to perfect. Both the Midtown complex and nearby Roppongi Hills are home to boutiques, leading galleries such as the Mori Art Museum and other attractions, and from Roppongi it’s easy to get to Shibuya, Shinjuku and beyond. If you wanted a little help delving into Japanese culture, there’s also a long list of immersive experiences for guests, from manga drawing classes and wadaiko drumming workshops to origami for kids and sake tasting. From £387pn; www.ritzcarlton. com/en/hotels/japan/tokyo
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NINE HOURS
Cramped and no-frills, capsule hotels have been around in Japan since the late 1970s, typically just places to crash on a budget or after missing the last train home. With its six branches in and around Tokyo, however, the Nine Hours chain has reimagined the capsule for the modern day, with sci-fi-like design, relatively roomy sleeping pods (220cm long by 110cm wide by 110cm high) that feature ambient lighting, and lounge areas with Wi-Fi and workstations. Unlike typical capsules, Nine Hours also allows multi-night stays, which makes them a genuine option for budget travellers. They also have a women-only branch in Kanda. From £15pn; ninehours.co.jp
Marriott International Inc; Nacasa & Partners; Prince Hotels
PRINCE PARK TOWER TOKYO
The flagship of Prince Hotels has just about the ideal location for anyone after easy access to Tokyo’s busy centre, but then calm when the day is done. The 33-storey hotel is located in the quiet of Shiba Park, facing the iconic Tokyo Tower and the 17th-century Zojoji Temple, but just short hops on the subway to the nightlife of Roppongi or the Imperial Palace and Ginza. Room-wise, it’s a mixed bag: the City Royal and Harbor Royal suites have an old-fashioned regal vibe; Premium and Premium Corner King rooms have a smart, contemporary feel. There are also Japanese-style suites with tatami mat flooring. ⊲ From £190pn; www.princehotels.com/parktower
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AMAN TOKYO
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When it opened atop a skyscraper in the Otemachi financial district in 2014, the Aman brought something new to Tokyo – an ultra-luxury hotel functioning like an urban resort. Its 84 rooms and suites are among the biggest in the city, starting at 71 sqm (Deluxe Rooms) and reaching 157 sqm (Aman Suites), with views over the Imperial Palace Gardens. Each is minimalist in design, featuring earthy tones and wood and stone features, plus Japanese elements such as deep-soaking baths. To that you can add an opulent spa with treatments inspired by kampo herbal healing and Shinto purification rituals, as well as dining options like the eight-seat counter-only Musashi by Aman sushi restaurant. There are unique experiences on offer too: guests can have dinner at an exclusive geisha house, take private lessons on swordsmanship or go behind the scenes at a sumo training stable. From £493pn; www.aman.com/hotels/aman-tokyo
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CONRAD TOKYO
Aman Resorts; Nacasa & Partners inc; Alamy Stock Photo; Tomooki Kengaku Photography; ©Hoshino Resorts
From the outside, the Conrad is part of one of Tokyo’s most striking old-meets-new photo ops – the skyscraper it tops looms over the ponds and teahouse of Hamarikyu Gardens. Inside, covering floors 28 to 37, it’s entirely modern, with 291 rooms that either look back into the city or have views stretching over Hamarikyu into Tokyo Bay.With its proximity to the Otemachi and Marunouchi business districts, the Conrad is well geared to business travellers, with the Mizuki Spa & Fitness offering a post-work massage. And while nearby Ginza is home to many of Japan’s best restaurants, the modern Chinese at China Blue and the traditional Japanese at Kazahana means the Conrad also has solid culinary credentials of its own. From £168pn; conrad-tokyo.hiltonjapan.co.jp
BNA STUDIO AKIHABARA
With five rooms designed to function as liveable art installations,Tokyobased art and design collective BnA have brought together artistic genres to create Tokyo’s most visually striking stay. The Athletic Park room, for example, is inspired by graffiti-riddled parks from its designer’s youth, while the walls of the Responder room are covered in a 360° mural that weaves together classic Japanese art elements such as dragons and calligraphic brushstrokes with street art and pop.The streets of Akihabara are just as colourful. This is the centre of all things anime and manga in Tokyo and there’s also a contemporary art scene to discover. A bonus: part of the revenue from each booking goes to the artists who designed the room. From £52pn; bna-akihabara.com
ONSEN RYOKAN YUEN SHINJUKU
Compared to Kyoto or the hot-spring resort towns outside of Tokyo, the capital itself doesn’t have many traditional ryokan inns. You can largely blame the great ’quake of 1923 and the bombing of the Second World War for that. But there are a growing number of contemporary ryokan, like the Yuen Shinjuku, that offer an updated experience.You get the finely tuned service and hospitality of a classic ryokan, plus that air of calm and quiet. There’s also the minimalist room design that features tatami-style mat flooring, although theYuen provides low beds instead of the floor-hugging futon. It all comes in an 18-storey tower that neighbours neon-lit Shinjuku, with an open-air hot-spring bath on the roof that delivers sweeping city views. From £60pn; www.uds-hotels.com/en/yuen/shinjuku
HOSHINOYA TOKYO
Like a home-grown answer to the Aman, the Hoshinoya is an exclusive hotel occupying a tower in Otemachi, an easy walk to Tokyo Station, the Imperial Palace and the shops and restaurants of upscale Ginza. But where the Aman incorporates some Japanese touches, the Hoshinoya is a full-on contemporary take on a traditional ryokan, with staff in kimono, tatami-matted communal areas, rooftop hot-spring baths and 84 rooms that merge classic ryokan style with Scandi-like design touches. And like all top ryokan, the food here is an integral part of the experience. That’s been given a modern twist too, with Executive Chef Noriyuki Hamada creating ‘Nippon cuisine’ – a French-inspired reworking of multi-course Japanese kaiseki. From £550pn; hoshinoya.com/tokyo/en/
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nown for its rich history, vast natural landscapes and culture, Fukushima Prefecture in Japan's northern region of Tohoku is not only a great place to experience much of Japan’s heritage in one trip but is also only a convenient 90-minute bullet train from Tokyo. But what perhaps will linger longest in visitors’ memories is its samurai history, and there are many places in Fukushima that you can travel to today to still feel the samurai spirit and learn of its traditions…
Time travel
Start in the west of Fukushima in the Aizu region, known for its pine and beech forests (many of which sprang from the ash-enriched
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soil following the 1888 eruption of Mount Bandai), and once home to the Aizu clan. Aizu-Wakamatsu, dubbed ‘Samurai City’, was the setting for much of the 1868’s Boshin War, a bloody showdown between the samurais and the new government army desperate to overthrow the Tokugawa shogunate. Despite standing strong during the Boshin War, Tsuruga Castle was destroyed less than a decade later during a rebellion against the Meji government that had seized power from the samurais. During a renovation in 2011, the roof was reverted from grey to its original coloured tiled roof, making it the only castle in Japan today with the traditional red-tile roof. Inside, look around the samurai exhibition
before climbing to the top floor for views of the surrounding city. Don’t miss the manicured park around the castle which is filled with cherry trees that blossom every April. Nearby, Mount Iimori offers alternative views of the fort and is home to the weathered graves of the Byakkotai (teenage samurai) who in 1868, fearing defeat at the hands of rebels, committed seppuku – (an honourable samurai suicide) to avoid being captured by the enemy. Some 70km east in Fukushima's Naka-dori district, you'll find Nihonmatsu Castle, which also fell during the Boshin War. The site has since been transformed into a peaceful park. Explore it with a local guide while hearing stories of how life used to be. A good time to visit is in autumn,
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SAMURAI IN FUKUSHIMA
when the trees are ablaze with golden leaves, and the annual Chrysanthemum Doll Exhibit takes place, which features dolls adorned with chrysanthemums that depict historic stories. Back in the Aizu region, visit the Higashiyama Onsen. Tucked in a wooded valley, the hot spring was used by generations of feudal lords and samurai warriors. Have a soak to understand why they enjoyed it here so much.
Immerse yourself in local life
Fukushima Prefecture is dotted with the remnants of post towns – rest stops for travellers navigating the Aizu Go Kaido – five roads leading to former capital Edo, controlled by the Tokugawa shogunate during the Edo period (1603-1867). Hiking these trails is a scenic way to literally walk in the footsteps of past samurais, with the small settlements along the way offering an insight into the samurai culture that is still alive today. One town worth visiting is the well preserved Ōuchi-juku in the forested Minamiaizu District, 30km south of Aizu-Wakamatsu. Electricity cables have been discreetly buried underground to maintain the aesthetic and the main street is lined with thatched restaurants and minshuku (Japanese private guest houses). Book a night in one to sleep on tatami mats and feast on local dishes such as negi soba (noodles eaten with a large green onion instead of chopsticks). A lesser-known stop off is Aizu-Wakamatsu’s Aizu Bukeyashiki, a reconstruction of a palatial samurai residence, complete with Edo-era
architectural elements, a tearoom and gardens. In the tatami-carpeted rooms, wax figures are used to re-enact key scenes from Aizu’s past. Further east, in Fukushima’s Soma district, the annual Soma Namaoi festival is another place to see samurai culture in action. The over 1,000-year-old event is held every July and includes an Ogyoretsu parade, featuring horse riders in full samurai gear, and Shinki Sodatsusen, a ferociously fast horse race where locals wearing samurai armour clamour to snatch a sacred flag.
Where to channel your samurai spirit in Fukushima
For a hands-on experience, visit the Aizu Hanko Nisshinkan, less than a 20-minute walk from Aizu-Wakamatsu’s Hirota train station. The school was originally built for the children of samurais who came here to learn about everything from martial arts to astronomy. Today, visitors come to learn about life as a samurai. Don’t miss the beautiful Geki-mon gate, with its elaborate wooden carvings. Students believed that the act of walking under this gate would aid their quest to become wise and virtuous. Once inside, take kyūdō lessons (the Japanese martial art of archery) with an expert guide and paint your own bokuto (a wooden sword used during kendo training). A lesson in zazen (zen meditation), which the samurais have practised since the 13th century will make for an authentic end to your visit to Fukushima where you're bound to feel the true spirit of the samurai.
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Time-honoured traditions (clockwise from this) The remains of Nihonmatsu Castle have been turned into a prefectural natural park; Tsuruga Castle is over 600 years old; practising Kyūdō; Edo-style houses in Ōuchi-juku; the ferociously fast horse race at the Soma Nomaoi festival; Aizu Bukeyashiki
SAMURAI SPIRIT TOURISM For more information, go to: samurai-spirit.com
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Intellectual spirit In the 14th and 15th centuries, the Tatev Monastery was the site of one of Armenia’s main universities, where advances were made in religion, science and philosophy, and miniature painting was developed
JOURNAL Armenia
Mystical Armenia
A meeting place of ancient empires, the South Caucasus country was the world’s first to officially adopt Christianity in AD301. George Kipouros explores its spiritual landmarks
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NEED TO KNOW Getting there: No airlines fly non-stop from the UK to Armenia at the moment. Paris, Frankfurt and Brussels provide the best flight connections; travel time from London is 6-8 hours. Getting around: Armenia is quite compact, and most of the best-preserved monasteries and churches can be visited from the country’s capital, Yerevan, on a day-trip. The roads are bumpy and busy but infrastructure is improving. Cost of travel: Armenia is very good value for money, and cheaper than neighbouring Georgia. The currency is the Armenian dram; change cash at the last minute. Communication: The country uses a unique 39-letter alphabet, first conceived by Armenian theologian Mesrop Mashtots in the fifth century. English is widely spoken among the youth in Yerevan and at all tourist sites. Stay: The best address in Yerevan (and probably the country) is The Alexander, a Marriott Luxury Collection property with all the bells and whistles as well as fine Armenian art in the rooms (from £150pn; marriott. co.uk). The castle-like Tufenkian Avan Dzoraget Hotel in the Lori Region sits right by the Debed River and is perfectly placed for excursions to the monasteries of Sanahin and Haghpat (from £40pn; tufenkianheritage.com). Further information: www.wanderlustmagazine. com/destinations/armenia and www.armenia.travel
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ou’re actually standing on the closely informed by the heritage of their church. 1,000-year-old tombstone of an Armenians call their country Hayastan after the Armenian royal,” smiled Sira, my legendary patriarch Hayk, a great-great-grandall-knowing Armenian history son of Noah, who defeated the Babylonian king guide. Was I so careless not to Bel in 2492BC and established his nation in the see it? Looking down I realised the entire floor Ararat region. of the narthex was actually made up of tombLess than a 20-minute bumpy drive from stones – yet I was inside the Katoghike Church of Sanahin was Haghpat, the other UNESCO World Sanahin Monastery. “You don’t need to worry Heritage monastic site in the Lori region. Haghpat – that is exactly how they’d was cool, dark and solemn, like it. They wanted to be without any iconography buried here so people would “A defining element of but dotted with the ubiquistep on them when coming tous khachkars, the uniquely Armenian churches: Armenian cross stones with to church,” reassured Sira. This was a metaphorical their pointed domes intricate engravings. I would see khachkars everywhere; way for future generations are reminiscent of Armenians to remember not just in monasteries and of Mount Ararat” their ancestors’ lives and ancient cemeteries but as a lasting symbol of identity achievements. It is part of that continues to be revered the uniqueness of Armenian churches, which are frequently credited by Armenians worldwide. “Khachkars are erected as forming the first national style in Christian in honour of victory, national holidays or martyrs,” architecture, dating back to the fourth century AD. explained Sira, while showing me the many ornate Sanahin Monastery was my first stop on designs that are used. a journey up and down the country, exploring Geghard Monastery, an hour from downtown a little-visited nation still bound together by Yerevan, has what is probably the finest example ecclesiastical tradition and symbolism. I was of an ancient khachkar, carved in 1213 by masters to discover that even for the ultra-modern Timot and Mkhitar. Yet it was the awe-inspiring Yerevanian youth, Armenian identity was location that stole the show for me at Geghard: ⊲
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Armenian architecture (clockwise from left) The name Sanahin translates as ‘this one is older than that one’, likely a claim to its monastery being older than that at nearby Haghpat; the Greco-Roman site at Garni includes a temple, Roman bath and summer palace; priests still lead prayers at Tatev; blending elements of Byzantine and Caucasian architecture, Sanahin Monastery was renowned for its school of illuminators and calligraphers; the burial chamber of Prince Papaq Proshian and his wife at Geghard Monastery features the family’s coat of arms carved above the columns: two lions chained together and an eagle
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JOURNAL Armenia
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Birth of a nation (clockwise from this) It’s said St Gregory was kept in a pit at Khor Virap for 13 years before he helped turn Armenia into the first Christian country; Haghpat Monastery was built halfway up a hillside, overlooking the Debed River, for both protection and privacy
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YEREVAN
the monastery is surrounded by towering cliffs at the entrance of the Azat Valley. Indeed, visitors to Armenia’s monastic heritage sites will find the remote locations of particular interest. More than for aesthetic reasons, the monasteries were built in strategically safe locations; many a civilisation has tried to control the Armenian highlands. Perhaps the most spectacularly situated of them all – and the furthest one from Yerevan – is Tatev Monastery, which lies at the end of a 15-minute cable car ride and presents one of the most iconic vistas of Armenia. Further down the Azat Valley from Geghard, we reached the oldest surviving monument of pre-Christian Armenia, the first-century Temple of Garni. While many monasteries have been built on top of older pagan temples, Garni is a unique surviving example that was fully reconstructed in the 1970s. The temple was dedicated to Mihr, the sun god from Armenia’s pagan-influenced ancient mythology. Armenian Christianity adopted many rites from the pagans, and Armenians still celebrate the fire festival of Trndez, held in February, the month dedicated to Mihr. Sira promised to dedicate my final day in the country to Mount Ararat, the mythical home of the gods. Though situated in modern-day Turkey, Greater Ararat looms over Yerevan and perhaps Armenia’s national psyche too. Its Mount Fuji-like outline is found everywhere, from the country’s banknotes to the labels of
Armenia’s Ararat brandy. It remains the most enduring symbol of the ancient Armenian homeland, Sira explained. And, as we were driving to reach Khor Virap monastery, I experienced a memorable ‘Aha’ moment, revealing another defining element of Armenian churches: their distinctive pointed domes are reminiscent of the volcanic cone of Ararat. Khor Virap boasts not only the best view of Mount Ararat but if you stop at the right place, just before reaching the monastic complex, you will see its pointed tower perfectly juxtaposed with Mount Ararat’s snowy peak in the background. Armenian churches all around the world often follow the same design pattern, featuring an Ararat-inspired dome as their centrepiece. Fewer than three million out of the ten million Armenians globally actually live in the country today. The remaining majority form part of one of the world’s largest diasporas. Over a million people were killed during the Armenian genocide in the early 20th century; this untold atrocity, combined with the ensuing Soviet occupation, had a profound impact on the psyche of the modern Armenian nation-state. The country still looks to the heritage, tradition and symbols deriving from the oldest national church in Christendom as the glue that binds its national identity together. For a visitor to this still underrated destination, the unique remnants of Armenia’s ancient past present a magnificent sight alongside a living culture that remembers and honours its origins.
While capital Yerevan doesn’t initially come across as the most attractive of cities, it is hugely buzzy and, thanks to the use of local tufa stone in construction, there’s a uniquely blushcoloured hue to its public and residential buildings. This distinctive shade has earned it its nickname: the ‘Pink City’. Yerevan has been destroyed by many earthquakes in the past and its current appearance belies its age – it’s one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited cities. Dating from 782BC, the remains of Erebuni Fortress make for an enlightening visit, revealing the many empires that have left their mark on the area. The city truly comes alive in the evenings – it feels like the whole country attends the nightly musical fountain display at Republic Square. The other mustvisit spot is the Cascade, a recently revitalised park and monument with multiple bars, excellent Armenian restaurants and art galleries that are open until late. The city also boasts a strong roster of museums. Don’t miss the History Museum (pictured below), the Matenadaran repository of ancient manuscripts, the Cafesjian Center for the Arts and the Genocide Memorial & Museum – all are very much worth a visit for immersing you in the nation’s history and identity.
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JOURNAL Armenia
TRAVELLERS’ TALES
Mastering the Matterhorn More than a mountain, the Matterhorn is the mountain and – for those of a certain mindset – begs to be climbed. Reader Will Robinson set out to fulfil a childhood dream and conquer the Alpine icon
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JOURNAL The Matterhorn
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s I sat at the Hörnli Hut, beneath the pyramidal colossus that is the Matterhorn, looking up at its seemingly endless wall of granite on the eve of my summit bid, anticipation built. My climbing partner, JD, and I sipped beer that we hoped would settle the nerves as the sun set behind the 4,478m peak, casting a huge shadow over the Zmutt Glacier Basin and the town of Zermatt, far below. The thunder of avalanches and rock fall resounded throughout the natural amphitheatre, blending with the chirrup of alpine choughs that had briefly ventured to this altitude to scavenge crumbs left on the hut’s veranda. As the shadows lengthened, the choughs descended. Now climbers and hut staff were the only living things remaining, surrounded by majestic desolation. As I looked up at the mountain – every bit as steep and imposing in the flesh as I had imagined – I gave thought to what had brought me here: why this mountain? The answer partly lies in the Lake District. When I was six, my Dad took me walking on a clear winter’s day to Blea Tarn, an isolated lake that sits in a bowl of granite below incongruously named High Street mountain. As I looked up I saw two ice climbers, roped together, inching up the frozen falls above. The sounds of their axes cutting into the ice echoed around the otherwise silent landscape. I was awestruck by their endeavour, how it was they were doing what they were doing, and what it would take to one day do the same. Years later, I was given the opportunity to learn to climb but this only progressed to mountaineering a decade later, spurred on by a pact to climb the Matterhorn – aka the Berg der Berge, the Mountain of Mountains. But perhaps the fundamental reason I developed such a fascination for this peak is the same reason the Matterhorn has achieved such iconic status elsewhere, both in popular culture (adorning everything from Toblerone bars to Swiss francs) and the mountaineering community: its sheer beauty. An almost perfect four-sided pyramid, it straddles the Swiss-Italian border in unparalleled dominion and, if you’re of a certain mindset, it begs to be climbed. This mindset is shared by the 3,000-or-so people who attempt it annually. Of them, on average eight-to-12 will die. In order to maximise both our chances of success and survival we hired two International Federation of Mountain Guides Associations (IFMGA) guides – Tamsin Gay and Tom Grant – who had both summited the Matterhorn several times before. Not only would they improve our safety, they would also bump us up the mountain’s ‘hierarchy’. ⊲
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Making the point (clockwise from top) The author Will Robinson (in red) ascends the mountain with experienced guide Tamsin Gay, who pushed through with the climb despite initially experiencing some severe altitude sickness at the start; the author’s party cheer their success to a drone having reached the summit of the mountain; Will and Tamsin enjoy the backlit Alpine scenery; Will (left) and climbing partner James Dartnall stand in front of the Matterhorn’s ‘perfect’ peak – geologists have speculated that the hard gneiss rock found at the mountain’s summit actually came from the African continental plate after it collided with Europe’s
THINKING ABOUT CLIMBING A MOUNTAIN?
Previous Spread AWL This Spread Will Robinson
Putting your life – and other people’s – on the line is not something to be taken lightly. The author spent three years preparing for his ascent of the Matterhorn. Here are some tips…
This hierarchy was explained to us on the eve summit – now returned via the same narrow route. of our bid. A ‘gathering of the guides’ was called The best thing to do when you heard the shout of by the Zermatt contingent, where they laid down ‘Durchkommen!’ was to get out of their way, fast, the golden rule for the following day, establishing and find something to cling on to. a pecking order in the process. “This is Helmut. After what seemed like both an age and no Helmut is the lead guide. You do not, under any time at all, we found ourselves standing on the circumstance, pass Helmut. Alles klar?” summit, hugging, crying tears of joy and disbelief. The international guides and their clients The mountain’s peak, shrouded in cloud some (that was us) came next, with unguided parties 30 minutes earlier, had opened up just as we at the bottom of the pile. As summited, awarding us with it turned out, the speed at a glorious view. We allowed which the Zermatt guides “The sun rose and the ourselves 15 minutes at the roof of the world, sitting with (and the clients who hire dark void on either them) climb makes Helmut’s feet in different countries, side of the ridge was taking in the blissful serenity status as the head honcho something of a moot point. of Switzerland to the north, transformed into They are blisteringly fast. Italy to the south. a 1,500m drop” Our alarms barked in the Descent is generally the 4am darkness. During a most dangerous part of any hushed, tense breakfast the eyes of some 20 differ- climb, with the lion’s share of accidents happening ent climbing parties (due to COVID-19 that’s after the summit is bagged. The Matterhorn is no low – it’s usually double that) darted around the exception. It was during the descent of Edward room, appraising one another’s gear, attitude and Whymper’s successful climb in 1865 (the first muesli progress. Nobody wanted to be last out of time the mountain had been summited) that the hut. Our ‘tier’ had been given a departure time tragedy struck and four of his party fell to their of 4.15am and so we left on the dot… only to see a deaths. It was with this danger firmly in mind that long trail of glinting headtorches already snaking I descended – carefully – back the way we came. above. We’d been far too rule-abiding and found As we dropped below the snow line, we entered the climb’s seventh hour. Our brains and bodies ourselves at the back of the queue. We made steady progress in the pitch black. were tiring but we couldn’t afford even the slightThen, suddenly, after two hours of climbing, the est lapse in concentration. Far from trying to bury sun rose, illuminating the tops of 30 of the Alps’ the discomfort and fatigue, I found myself almost highest mountains in vivid shades of saffron and welcoming it; it felt like a form of purgation, framed ochre. The valleys below remained in shadow, by the Hörnli Ridge’s stark beauty below and the giving magnificent contrast to the panorama. knowledge that we were inching closer to victory. The dark void on either side of the ridge I’d just Eventually we descended the last fixed rope, to climbed was transformed into a 1,500m drop – a smattering of applause from some hikers who’d always there but now visible. The resultant adren- watched our final descent. I was able to really alin rush made my limbs shake, giving me a few smile then, knowing we’d made it where many uncontrollable seconds of ‘Elvis leg’. don’t and experienced the majesty of this incredOnce I’d got my extremities back under control ible place from a rare and exclusive perspective. we pushed on, ascending constantly for two hours, I have yet to go back to Blea Tarn since that stopping only to don crampons when increasing memorable day, but now it seems right to return, ice and snow made it necessary. As we entered have a crack at those routes I first gazed up at the frozen top-quarter of the mountain, the fore- 25 years ago, and see what things look like from most Zermatt guides – having already made the up there, too.
1 Train well
The author practised in the Alps and Snowdonia, improving his technique and grade. He took at course at Plas Y Brenin, the National Outdoor Centre (pyb.co.uk), where he met Tamsin Gay, the IFMGA guide who went on to guide him on the Matterhorn.
Look into financial 2 support
Alpinism is expensive. The author was accepted for a bursary to train in Chamonix with the Jonathan Conville Mountaineering Trust (jcmt. org.uk), which provides subsidised training to people under the age of 30, and helps climbers understand how to act responsibly.
3 Hire a guide
If you don't think you can complete the ascent and descent in a time that could assure safety and success, you must hire a good guide. Having one also ensures you’re more likely to get a preferential place on the ‘starting grid’ on the morning of your ascent. Search for guides through the British Association of Mountain Guides (bmg.org.uk). For more info on mountain climbing – at any age, at any skill level – try the British Mountaineering Council (thebmc.co.uk).
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Travellers Tales Matterhorn 216, 2
JOURNAL The Matterhorn
INTERVIEW VERSION
Ray Mears
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We don’t associate China with conservation and wildlife. How did you feel about doing it? I was in two minds to be honest because clearly they are one of the greatest polluters on the planet. But when I was told that there are things happening to do with conservation, I took a sort of mature view and thought, ‘Well, let me find out more.’ And I was actually really pleasantly surprised We had a Chinese producer who works for the Chinese government, and they’ve obviously got a message to get out. But, despite that, there are ways of assessing whether things are genuine or not. And I was very impressed. We went to the raptor rehabilitation centre in Beijing. The people working there are the same people that would be doing that work in a dedicated way here. Exactly the same sort of people, the same passion, the same motivation, the same dedication and you can’t fake that.
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One episode of Wild China obviously features pandas… They really know pandas, they’re very conscious of their symbology to do with conservation worldwide. And they do a super job with the conservation of them. I mean really good. Most people who film with pandas can only access them in the zoo. But I was keen that we would go to the habitat of the pandas in the wild. We gained access to a reserve that you cannot normally go to and we worked with their extremely dedicated rangers who go out on a daily basis to keep tabs on the radio-collared pandas in the reserve. We were able to track pandas and also look at them on trail cameras.You see how mobile an animal they are, which is not the impression we get when we visit a zoo.
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“Most people who film with pandas can only access them in the zoo. But I was keen that we would go to the habitat of the pandas in the wild” You met incredible conservationists but did you get any feel for whether the general Chinese populace are aware of conservation? They are! And it’s a very strange thing to witness because it’s all very new to them. They don’t really quite know what to do in a reserve and so people dress up in their Sunday best. So, it’s rather like Britain in 1971 when people went to Longleat dressed in their best clothes rather than practical ones, which is lovely. So yes, people are interested. Of course, it’s a big population and I’m sure that’s still a small interest, but it’s a growing interest. And they take a real pride in their domestic wildlife. I have to take my hat off to China, to be honest with you; when they decide to conserve something, they go full Monty. It’s no expense spared and they bring in the legislation to support it. So, there’s great hope. I think a lot of people will be surprised that they’ve got elephants in China. I was really surprised at that! And here is an example of China’s approach to elephants. These elephants are living in an area that produces crops and is full of agricultural communities. And so the damage an elephant can do could be quite serious. But the Chinese government has said you have to let
© Tin Can Island
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The new TV series Wild China sees the outdoorsman exploring some of China’s most extraordinary places and wildlife, as Ray explains to Lyn Hughes
know when you’re going to bump into one.You’ve got to look. And the next day against all the odds, we were lucky that we found two snow leopards and it was just amazing. I’ve never seen better camouflage in any sort of mammal. If they stop moving and you take your eyes off them, they just become a rock. Just astonishing.
“In Qinghai, I found tracks of wolf, bear and a common leopard, all very close to where we were accommodated”
© Tin Can Island
them have them [the crops] and we will compensate you [for the loss]. To prevent people getting hurt, they have an early warning system. If the alarms fire it means elephants are coming from that direction, so people need to stay in their houses and let the elephants do their thing. That’s a breath of fresh air in terms of elephant conservation worldwide.
They’re honestly doing a great job. They’ve got an awfully long way to go, but they’re getting results because they really throw their weight, their heart and soul behind the project. That’s a real example to us. They don’t pay lip service to it. What was the highlight of the series for you? It was going in search of snow leopard in Qinghai which is going to be the first national park in China (Sanjiangyuan National Park) and is an amazing place. As soon as we got there, I was out looking and I found tracks of wolf, bear and a common leopard, all very close to where we were accommodated. And then I started scanning the hills because you never
Searching in Sichuan Ray tracks giant pandas with Zhu Dahai and his team in the cloud forests of south-west China’s Sichuan province. He joins the rangers on the giant panda re-wilding program
Did you get much chance to use your bushcraft skills? Very much. I tracked pandas and I think the local rangers were really surprised by that, as I think they were expecting just a TV presenter. When they realised I was tracking, we got invited back to eat with them and out came a little bottle of local hooch and we were accepted, which was special. And, of course with the snow leopards, I was tracking every single day. I think that’s the first time, as far as I’m aware, that a presenter has presented with snow leopards. Normally it’s all done with cameras and voiceover. What most surprised you about China? The staggering diversity of the terrain. I enjoyed working in the Himalayas and I think Shangri-La was really lovely. The people were very friendly. One of my fondest memories is that people will put a ghetto blaster on the streets and play music and then people just gather around and start dancing just for the fun of it. I recorded a little bit of the people dancing in the square in Shangri-La. It was just so happy and joyful. Would I recommend China for a keen naturalist or traveller? If you are used to less-developed facilities then I would, because China is fascinating. And the moment you go out into the rural districts you step back in time several hundred years. The people are welcoming and friendly and there are a lot of wonderful, genuine experiences for the independent-minded traveller. Wild China with Ray Mears is out now on the ITV Hub (itv.com)
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JOURNAL Ray Mears
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WHAT IS IT LIKE TRAVELLING TO
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THE AZORES POST-COVID?
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The Azores islands make for the ideal first post-lockdown destination. Safe and sustainable with all the wide-open skies, wild landscapes and spontaneous adventure we’ve been dreaming of…
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AWL: Shutterstock; Visit Azores
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Primed for adventure (clockwise from this) The Azores archipelago comprises of nine volcanic islands; the natural bathing pools of Caloura; the Fajã da Caldeira de Santo Cristo is a sanctuary for surfers; try the Azores endemic clams which only grow on the island of São Jorge; the island of Corvo – and its neighbour Flores – are part of the archipelago’s western group
Flores and Corvo are both home to migratory birds including the Manx shearwater.
REMEMBER THE PLEASURE OF EATING OUT
WHAT TO EXPECT AT THE AIRPORT?
At the time of writing, the Azores is open to travellers from the UK. Fully vaccinated visitors can enter with a valid EU Covid Digital Vaccination Certificate. Unvaccinated visitors can enter with a PCR test no older than 72 hours or take a test on arrival. Make sure you check the most up to date requirements before travelling.
REDISCOVER ADVENTURE
AWL: Shutterstock; Visit Azores
After months of lockdown, the Azores is the dream place to go to rediscover yourself and your relationship with the wild. On arrival, sea air from the Atlantic rushes around you, blowing away the stasis of the last year and bringing in freshness and invigoration. This is an archipelago where you can fully immerse yourself in adventure. São Miguel is the largest of the Azores. Rugged coastlines belie sandy beaches, while hot springs hide between volcano peaks. Here you’ll find places to explore
without the need for long journeys: a dawn surf, a long trek to a hidden waterfall and a leisurely lunch are all possible within a day. São Miguel has many easily accessible dive sites, with the ‘Dori’ wreck – a World War II shipwreck on the seafloor near the city of Ponta Delgada – a particular highlight. Head north for surfing uncrowded breaks or enjoy paddleboarding and kayaking on the lakes of Sete Cidades. Inland is Furnas Lake, a sulphuric phenomenon of pale green water and bubbling molten clay. Feel the benefits of Furnas’s geothermal activity at the Poça da Dona Beija hot springs. To the west of São Miguel is Pico island where you can join a whale watching trip to see species such as blue, fin and pilot whales as well as bottlenose dolphins.
For more information, go to: visitazores.com
RECONNECT WITH NATURE
The microclimate of the Azores is like no other: volcanic peaks populated with temperate forests, aquamarine lakes, bubbling hot earth, eclectic flora and biodiverse marine and wildlife. From above, as you fly in, São Miguel looks like a green fragment of moon surface, punched in three places by a trio of volcanic craters – a treat for eyes starved of 3D views after months of online life. Kayak straight into these crater lakes on one day, then canyon down waterfalls and jump into fresh water pools on Flores island the next. Climb Pico Island’s eponymous peak – the highest in Portugal at 2,351m – for lunar landscapes and to feel the volcano’s heat beneath your feet. Bird watching opportunities abound in the Azores due to its central position in the North Atlantic. The endemic Azores bullfinch can be seen on São Miguel, alongside Bulwer’s petrels, grey wagtails and Cory’s shearwaters, while the islands of
With the lockdown came the closing of restaurants, and many of us have been longing to reacquaint ourselves with the joy of dining out. In the Azores, the eateries have reopened their doors, offering travellers an array of places to refuel after long days of adventure. The islanders take their traditional dishes seriously: the earth here is so hot it’s become a place of gastronomic pilgrimage. Locals in Furnas bake a stew, cozido das Furnas, under the ground for five hours, hoisting it out at midday for lunch service in the village restaurants. Other local produce includes the black and green tea grown on the archipelago, Pico wines, creamy Azores cheese and some surprisingly exotic fruit including pineapples and bananas. Along the São Miguel coast near Ponta Delgada, join the locals at the port for lunch in one of the seafood tavernas to feast on fresh fish such as tuna, lapas (limpet clams) and lobster.
GO GREEN
Travelling sustainably is made easy in the Azores, which was the first ever archipelago to be certified under the EarthCheck Sustainable Destination program, recognising its commitment to preserving its rich culture and marine ecosystems. The islands have also been considered by European Best Destinations as one of the safest places to holiday for its low number of cases and good preventative measures, making the Azores a perfect post-lockdown getaway, whenever you are ready to visit.
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
SHINING A LIGHT ON
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Hidden valleys, isolated rural communities and wildlife goodnews-stories. We go beyond Uganda’s gorillas to find that this recovering African country is far more diverse than you may think Words & photographs Sarah Marshall
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hen nomadic pastoralists reached the vast grasslands stretching from the foothills of the Napore Mountains, they stopped dead in their tracks. Exhausted by their long, arduous and dusty journey from Ethiopia, these Karamojong (tired elders) could move no further. Tiredness, though, probably wasn’t the only factor determining their decision to settle here in the 17th century. Flanked by a battalion of commanding peaks at a crossroads between South Sudan, Kenya and north-eastern Uganda, Kidepo Valley is both arrestingly beautiful and overwhelming in scope. Driving through plains dotted with precious shea trees, past dry riverbeds shaded by scruffy palms and into a slalom of soaring slopes, it’s hard to place on a map. One of Uganda’s many hidden faces, Kidepo inwardly gazes into its own little world. A country of wildly varying climates and altitudes, most of Uganda remains a mystery. Historically, gorillas have taken the limelight, with most travellers heading to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest in the south-west to track one of the 22 habituated troops as an extension of an East African safari. But things are changing. Pot-holed roads have been paved with tarmac, and in 2019, national carrier Ugandan Airlines resumed operations after a 19-year hiatus with plans to launch a direct flight to the UK – the first in six years – later in 2021. Intrigued by whispers of isolated tribes and reports of lost species coming back from the brink, I would spend 14 days exploring a section of the continent where red earth burns and rainforests glisten just as intensely as ‘the pearl of Africa’ that Winston Churchill encountered 100 years ago.
Ugandan peak The highest point of Kidepo National Park, the 2,750m Mount Morungole is home to the Ik people; (bottom) the road into Kidepo National Park; (previous) Kidepo Valley National Park
THE PICK OF THE WILDLIFE
Previous spread: Shutterstock
Few places are as raw and untouched as Kidepo. Off limits for many years due to violent cattle rustling and civil ⊲
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unrest in South Sudan, one of Uganda’s finest national parks has slowly become more accessible. “Kidepo means to pick,” explained my Karamojong guide, Robert Ochaya, from Great Lakes Safaris, as we collected armfuls of borassus palm fruit the size of bowling balls. In rainy season, everything was blooming. Sticky tamarind seeds plastered the ground and poisonous desert roses flaunted their fuchsia pouts like femme fatales. Crossing the Kidepo River before it would flood later that afternoon, we’d driven to the South Sudan border to ceremoniously straddle an invisible line in the ground. A military base is stationed at the site for security, although these days the rusting tanks are only used to collect firewood. “The elephants go over the border at night, but they come back by the morning,” explained veteran head ranger Philip Akorongimoe, indicating that South Sudan is still unstable. But the elephants are not the only animals to seek refuge in Kidepo. On an early morning game drive, I watched chee-
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tahs chase waterbuck and oribi across the plains, while black clouds of buffalo swelled on the horizon. “It’s possible to see herds in their thousands,” boasted Philip, an animated character who humorously lavished facts with outrageous imagination. “I call this the city for retired generals, the barracks. They come here to chew the big G.” There are no resident vets in the 1,442 sq km park, and no researchers have been here since the ’90s, but from an infinity pool built into the boulders at Apoka Safari Lodge, I observed a healthy amount of wildlife on the plains. A collection of 10 smart, canvas-walled eco-cottages and an open-air lounge, it’s the only property inside the park. A hike to see the isolated Ik people, who live in the clouds at the top of Mount Morungole, is one of the highlights in more ways than one. Living alongside the Karamojong, this minority group, numbering around 10,000, also originally arrived from Ethiopia. We took a two-hour scenic drive to the trail head, eager to explore the landscape. Outside the park, land is communal and
Alamy
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Rising from the plains (clockwise from top left) African elephant numbers are slowly increasing in Kidepo Valley NP after the destruction of Uganda’s civil wars; youngsters gather to greet the author at a Karamojong village on Mount Morungole; a Karamojong man from a village on the borders of the park; defassa waterbuck refresh themselves at Apoka Lodge’s swimming pool
Alamy
although there are rumours of plans to establish conservancies, gole, thick crowns of thorny branches guard homesteads, with for now the virgin area is clustered with mud hut villages and corrals carefully protected inside. Memories of cattle rustling, a way of life to pay dowries, are still too small vegetable gardens. Preened like peacocks, Karamofresh to take risks. jong men like to show off. Pastoral- “The Ik prefer to isolate Children spilled from dwarf doorists paraded along the roadside with themselves at the top ways as we approached their settlewooden staffs slung over their shoulexcitedly screaming “mzungu” of Mount Morungole, ments, ders where the barrels of AK47s as my ghostly-white body floated up where a thick mist was the steep hillside. The women were would have once gleamed. Fashioned from broken car reflectors, red shards swallowing the peaks bent double in their patchwork of dangled from each ear. On their heads gardens, picking beans and maize. balanced tiny knitted pork-pie hats by the time we arrived” The Ik prefer to isolate themselves decorated with ostrich feathers. at the top, where pumpkins grow less “You can’t leave your car parked here,” joked Robert. bitter, trees are easily available for firewood, and there are no “They’ll smash the lights for jewellery and slash your tyres cows. A thick mist was already swallowing the peaks by the time we arrived. for shoes.” Forced out of the park to reduce poaching, communities “We don’t want cows,” insisted villager Kusum, shaking ⊲ were pushed into the mountains. At the base of Mount Morun- his head vehemently. “They bring trouble.”
Rainy season spots (clockwise from left) Philip, Robert and Apoka Lodge-manager John collecting sweet borassus palm fruits in Kidepo NP; a child walks though the protective branch walls of a village on Mount Morungole; Buffalo wandering Kidepo Valley NP
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Crouching, I crawled into a hut where dried corn was strung up like bunting and thin animal skins coated the floor. “We never sleep on a mattress,” explained Kusum. “We fear we might dream.” Frail and shrivelled like a sun-dried bean pod, Mateo, the oldest man in the village, nostalgically recalled life in the park. “Animals were everywhere, but we had no difficulties,” he reminisced while perching on an ekicholong, a wooden seat shaped like a clothes iron. “It was better before.” It did seem the communities had been given a poor deal. Any poaching incidents were mainly connected to South Sudanese trespassers, Philip had previously told me. At the beginning of his 21-year-career, he’d been called out five times a day to deal with incidents. Now, though, it was quiet.
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RHINO RENAISSANCE
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One of the biggest victims of poaching in the park was the rhino. The last one was killed here in 1983, deeming the species locally extinct. Attempting to repair the damage done, a breeding programme to resurrect a population of white rhinos was launched in 2004 at the Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary in Nakitoma, a six-hour drive south. Travelling towards Gulu, we passed the husks of burnedout churches, scars of a brutal reign of terror by the Lord’s Resistance Army, that lasted for two decades until 2006.
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“At night, the rhinos came to sleep below the guest accommodation, their hulking shadows illuminated by the moonlight” Now the only signs of decimation were the pearlescent wings of termites scattered on the roadside like confetti, their plump bodies collected in buckets to be deep fried. Checking into Ziwa’s simple accommodation, I scanned photographs of the 34 resident rhinos plastering the offices at their HQ. Following a baby boom, head guide Raymond Opio admitted numbers had exploded and they were running out of more than just wall space. Starting with four animals from Kenya and two donated by a zoo in Florida, the small population has flourished in a former cattle ranch where communities graze animals on a rotation system. During a walk with Raymond, I met one of the newest arrivals, born in February. Catching our scent, the calf raised his snout and bristled. “They will charge to defend their mothers,” warned Raymond, who knows the animals better than his own family. “And even at that age, they can do some damage.” The grown-ups, however, were surprisingly docile. At times we were so close, their bulbous bottoms eclipsed the sun. At night, some animals came to sleep below the guest accommodation, their hulking shadows illuminated by the moonlight. Night walks promise potential sightings of aardvarks and the rare giant pangolin, the subject of an research project by the UK’s Chester Zoo. Raymond recalled an attempt to tag one of the endangered scaly creatures, requiring five men to ⊲ hold the elusive creature down.
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Direct contact (clockwise from this) Young Karamojong men religiously follow fashion, combining military shirts with gaudy jewellery and feathers in their mini bowler hats or woollen berets; the numbers of rhino are rising at the 70 sq km Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, established in 2005, with over 30 individuals now living there; the local Ik community welcome visitors with singing and dancing to celebrate their arrival; Mateo, the oldest man in the Ik community, claims life was peaceful when he lived alongside animals in the national park
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Shutterstock
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On the trail of rhinos (clockwise from top left) Walking with white rhinos at Ziwa, some of which will soon be translocated to some of the country’s national parks. While out trekking with rhinos, visitors should keep an eye out for Uganda kobs, oribis and bush bucks; thanks to hunting and habitat loss, Kidepo Valley’s population of giraffes was reduced to just three by the 1990s – it’s growing again now but numbers are still fragile; young rhino calf Pipo was born in February this year; the sun sets over Kidepo Valley NP, on the border with South Sudan, where elephants and cheetahs regularly cross borders
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Looking up The chimps at Kibale are visited by rangers every day for two years to habituate them before visitors are invited to see them
nity-led walks around the nearby Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary. Led along a wooden boardwalk by nature guide Ben, I spotted blue turaco birds flamboyantly fanning their tail feathers and spied on red colobus monkeys nibbling furtively on intoxicating leaves. Ben showed me papyrus reeds ingeniously used by women as sanitary pads and demonstrated how palm fronds could be woven into mats. LOOKING FOR CHIMPS IN KIBALE Preserving cultural customs is a challenge in a rapidly One of Uganda’s greatest strengths is its marriage of commu- developing country, but it lies at the core of luxurious nity and wildlife tourism, demon27-suite Emburara Farm Lodge in strated in Kibale National Park, a agricultural Mbarara district, “I hiked through Kibale the five-hour drive east. Setting off from a two-hour drive south. On the workNational Park in search ing ranch, activities revolve around 45 Primate Lodge, an idyllic forest hideAnkole longhorn cattle. In the mornaway where chimps have been known of the great apes. ing, I accompanied herdsman John to knock at the glass doors, I hiked in High up in the trees, Karuhanga as he lovingly polished search of the great apes. Butterflies darted through curtains his treasures with a bundle of stringy chimps pelted us of trailing vines hanging from the sisal fibres. Eager for attention, their with fruit pulp” mighty horns curved and twisted to dense canopy, and light-seeking ironwood trees strained skyward like form an elaborate calligraphy script. turkey necks, extending their sinewy buttress roots across A few hours later, I observed as John replenished their the forest floor. High up in the trees, chimps pelted us with trough with a coating of iron-rich termite mud, using his fruit pulp and other less savoury substances. Wiping her hands to mould the clay mixture into shape. “Look at them bum with a leaf, one grumpy teen lobbed a branch at me, nodding their ivories,” he exclaimed, beaming like a proud signalling our hour was up. parent. “They know we are friends.” Cleverly capitalising on traffic generated by chimp trackAfter watering cattle, most men would strip off and bathe ing, eco-tourism outfit KAFRED (Kibale Association For naked, John told me. Thankfully the shower facilities at Rural and Environmental Development) launched commu- Emburara meant no nudity was necessary that day. Surprises Immediately after my visit, the sanctuary temporarily closed for 50 days following a long-running dispute between the landowners and private management company Rhino Fund Uganda. Government organisation Uganda Wildlife Authority has since intervened, promising a brighter future with plans to translocate some rhinos into national parks.
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In expert hands (clockwise from top left) Birdwatching professional Johnnie Kamugisha takes the author on a tour of Mabamba Swamp; chimps at Kibale; watering the Ankole cattle at Emburara Farm Lodge; a shoebill hunts through the reeds for lungfish at Mabamba
were in store that evening, however, when John lit a fire with cow dung to cajole his cattle back into their corral. Seeking warmth and respite from biting insects, they marched obediently, and a clatter of horns danced in the flames. Both domesticated and wild, strange creatures can be found all over Uganda – some much closer to human habitation than you might think. The final stop of my journey took me to the Manamba swamps of Lake Victoria, near to international airport gateway Entebbe, where dozens of shoebills have made a comfortable home. Plucked from a prehistoric era, the enormous birds stealthily move through reeds and lilies looking for lungfish, while Boeing 777s zoom overhead. One of Uganda’s pioneering birders, who once had his own TV show, Johnnie Kamugisha was the first guide to venture into the swamps more than 20 years ago. Dressed in a cap studded with pin badges of various winged species, he was every bit the avian fanatic. “I find birding easier than
eating food,” he insisted, as we drifted down the shallow waterways in a wooden canoe. Working closely with local fishermen, who earn an income from transporting tourists through the wetlands, Johnnie has established a bulletproof security network to protect birds and eggs in high demand from overseas collectors. “They call me mzee (wise old man),” he laughed fondly. “They keep watch when I’m not here.” Expert knowledge helped us quickly locate a juvenile. Sitting quietly, we marvelled as the young shoebill carefully hunted, stepping with the grace of a ballerina, before falling like a sledgehammer on to its prey. “Even when dead, a lungfish can bite at intestines, so the bird has to crush its head,” explained Johnnie. Macabre and bizarre, his theory seemed implausible, but it wasn’t surprising. In Uganda, a land continuously revealing new secrets, I’d learned nothing is beyond the realms of possibility. ⊲
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Sarah travelled as a guest of Audley Travel (01993 838575, www.audleytravel. com/uganda). A 14-day trip to Uganda, including stays in Entebbe, Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary, Kibale National Park and Kidepo National Park costs from £7,530 per person (based on two sharing), including flights, transfers, accommodation on a fullboard basis (B&B in Entebbe) and wildlife-viewing activities.
Vital statistics
Capital: Kampala Population: 44.27 million Languages: Luganda, Swahili and English Time: GMT+3 (Mar-Oct GMT+2) International dialling code: +256 Visas: Required by UK nationals. A single-entry visa costs US$50; apply online at visas.immigration.go.ug. Money: Ugandan shilling (UGX), currently UGX5,000 to the UK£.
When to go
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June-October Dry, cool weather – ideal for hiking or chimp trekking. Many birds breeding and nesting at this time. November-December Some rain; green. January-February Dry, with good wildlifespotting opportunities. March-May Wet. Many young animals born.
Health & safety
For the latest on entry requirements, including information regarding COVID-19, check FCO advice (www.gov.uk/ foreign-travel-advice). At the time of going to press, Uganda was on the UK red list. A negative PCR test taken no more than 72 hours before arrival is mandatory for entry into Uganda. Non-vaccinated travellers are required to take an additional PCR test on arrival; results will take up to four hours. Follow local rules of social distancing and wear masks. All travellers must present evidence of a yellow fever vaccine. For information on boosters needed, check fitfortravel.nhs.uk. There is a risk of malaria. Take prophylaxis, apply insect repellent and wear long sleeves and trousers on safari.
Getting there
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Currently there are no direct flights from the UK to Uganda, although Uganda Airlines plans to launch a route later in 2021. Ethiopian Airlines (ethiopianairlines. com) fly via Addis Ababa to Entebbe; returns cost from around £600. Qatar Airways (qatarairways.com) flies London-Entebbe via Qatar; journey time is from around 11 hours.
Getting around
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Although domestic flights operate in Uganda, it’s often cheaper and more convenient to travel by road. (At the time of writing, domestic flight timetables were heavily reduced due to COVID-19.) New tarmacked roads have improved conditions and reduced journey times, although it’s still safer to travel with a driver-guide in a 4WD vehicle. Be prepared for long transfers – it takes nine hours to reach Kidepo from Entebbe.
A favourable exchange rate means the Ugandan shilling can go a long way. Food purchased in towns is very affordable, while the cost of wildlife permits and park fees is less than in neighbouring countries. Support local communities by purchasing handicrafts and using porters on hikes or treks. Although safari lodges can be more expensive, there is a good range of accommodation at all budgets.
Accommodation
Apoka Safari Lodge (Kidepo National Park; wildplacesafrica.com). Thatched cottages with canvas walls are built into a kopje with an infinity pool overlooking the savannah. From US$518 (£373) per person per night (based on two sharing) full-board.
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Cost of travel
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Primate Lodge (Kibale; ugandalodges.com) Surrounded by forest, the only lodge inside the national park is a five-minute walk from the chimpanzee trekking station. Cottages from US$215 (£155) per person per night (two sharing) full-board. Emburara Farm Lodge (Mbarara; emburarafarmlodge.com) A working Ankole cattle farm with luxury suites. Cottages from £125 per night (two sharing) with breakfast. Papyrus Guest House (Entebbe; papyrusguesthouse.com) Comfortable rooms set within a garden with an open dining terrace. From US$55 (£39) per person per night (two sharing) with breakfast.
Food & drink
The food basket of East Africa, Uganda is blessed with a year-round harvest of fresh fruit and vegetables. Matoke (cooking bananas), cassava, yams and avocado are all popular, often served with meat and posho – a type of cornmeal porridge. Street food favourites to sample include rolex (a vegetable omelette wrapped in a chapati) and fried plantain chips. Nile is the most ubiquitous local beer but look out for craft brews from the Banange Brewing Company (www.banangebrewing.com).
Further reading & information
Map illustration: Scott Jessop. Images: Sarah Marshall; Alamy
visituganda.com – Uganda Tourism Uganda (Bradt, 2019) We Are All Birds Of Uganda (2019) Awardwinning debut novel by Hafsa Zayyan The First Woman (2021) Novel by Jennifer Nansubuga Makumbi, winner of the 2021 Jhalak Prize
5 OTHER SPECIES TO SEE IN UGANDA
1 Mountain gorilla
Uganda provides a refuge for the world’s largest population of these endangered great apes. Twentyone groups have been habituated for tourism and research in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest along with one troop in Mgahinga on the border with Rwanda. A permit to trek with the animals for one-hour costs US$700 (£502), with most groups departing from Buhoma in Bwindi. However, you’ll need to head to the Rushaga section, on the other side of the forest, for a four-hour habituation experience, which costs US$1,500 (£1,075).
2 Nubian giraffe
Formerly known as the Rothschild’s giraffe, this re-classified subspecies is one of the most threatened. Find them in three of Uganda’s national parks: Murchison Falls, Kidepo Valley and Lake Mburo. Numbers have improved in recent years due to conservation efforts and translocations in partnership with the Giraffe Conservation Foundation (giraffeconservation.org). A pale pelt and long white socks distinguish the Nubians from other giraffes.
3 Lion
If you want to encounter some of Africa’s most agile big cats, visit Ishasha, in the southern sector of Queen Elizabeth National Park, where a combination of heat and hunting opportunities sends them into the boughs of fig trees. In the northern sector of the park, some
lions have also been known to scale candelabra euphorbias. Elsewhere in the country the cats can be seen in Murchsion Falls and Kidepo.
4 Great blue turaco
Uganda’s varied topography and undulating altitudes harbours a raft of native and migratory bird species. This turquoise beauty is one of the most spectacular, and locals believe a sighting will bring them good luck. Feasting mostly on fruits, they can be found all over the country. Courtship displays at the start of the rainy season are especially entertaining: males bow and bob their crests, fan feathers and chase each other through the canopy.
5 Golden monkey
Living alongside the headlinegrabbing great apes are 20 species of primates. One of the most charismatic is this hairy-cheeked creature, which can be found in the bamboo forests of Mgahinga National Park. It’s possible to trek to a habituated troop, with permits costing US$90 (£65) for one hour or US$100 (£72) for a longer habituation experience. Watch them rattle through an array of amusing expressions as they scamper and tumble between the trees.
WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Uganda: Wanderlust Travel Guide – wanderlust.co.uk/destinations/uganda/ Tracking rhinos in Ziwa National Park – https:// www.youtube.com/watch?v=hywg6KDjXZA ‘The Sound of Traditional Uganda’ playlist – open.spotify.com/ playlist/59TVx2MmmBfg0BqRc7CvqM
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Fresh perspectives (clockwise from this) The Old Town tops the 62m Rock of Monaco; the Condamine Market; barbagiuans originated in Monaco; the Jardin Exotique de Monaco covers an area of around 15,000 sq m; the Princess Grace Rose Garden; the Oceanographic Museum was founded by Prince Albert I; In 2019, a sea turtle rescue centre opened at the Oceanographic Museum; Opéra de Monte-Carlo
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WHY THE PRINCIPALITY WILL SURPRISE YOU t less than two square kilometres, Monaco is the second smallest country in the world, yet it is packed with a tapestry of travel experiences. As a destination that is constantly reinventing itself, and with a rich history and culture as well as plenty of green spaces, visitors will find there’s more to Monaco than first meets the eye. Here’s three ways Monaco will surprise you…
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History and Culture
As a harbour city, Monaco has a colourful past and its long culture and history are evident in all corners of the country. There are many museums to choose from but the world-
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renowned Oceanographic Museum – housed in a Neoclassical palace perched on the edge of the cliffs that looks out over the Mediterranean Sea – is a must. Inside, find more than 6,000 specimens, an immersive exhibition on the Great Barrier Reef, and a rescue centre which cares for and rehabilitates turtles. Constructed in 1878 and designed by architect Charles Garnier, the Opéra de Monte-Carlo is also worth seeing from the outside and in. The lavish building hosts some of the top names in the world of opera. Don’t miss a visit to the RomanByzantine Cathédrale de Monaco, built in 1875 from white stone sourced from a French commune
called La Turbie. The cathedral houses the tombs of Monaco’s former princes and princesses, a looming altar and the white Carrara marble Episcopal throne. The Prince’s Palace of Monaco also has a long history, dating back to the early 13th century. The palace lies on the Monaco Rock and is the official residence of the Grimaldi family. The palace is set to reopen many of its richly decorated rooms to visitors in 2022, offering a glimpse into royal life through the centuries. Finish your historic tour with a wider exploration of the Old Town, strolling the narrow alleys dating back to the Middle Ages that link together little squares, to feel like you have gone back in time.
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Food for thought
Monaco has a diverse range of food options from Michelin starred restaurants to traditional brasseries and bistros. The country is home to a medley of cultures, and this is reflected in the cuisine; enjoy everything from French, Italian, Mediterranean, and fusion dishes. Situated in the Place d’Armes, La Condamine Market originally opened in 1880 and is a favourite among locals and visitors alike. Packed with open-air fruit and vegetable stalls, the space offers locally sourced and sustainable produce. Dishes of all types of cuisine are served up here, including Monégasque specialities such as barbagiuans. This tasty appetizer is a fritter stuffed with Swiss chard and ricotta, among
other ingredients. Eat one under the shade of an arcade while watching local life pass by. For something more special, book a table at Mada One restaurant to try chef Marcel Ravin’s impressive menu that features French classics for breakfast such as buttery, flaky pain au chocolats and eggs benedicte, as well as lunch specials including toast caprese or avocat. Don’t miss the chef’s signature dish, the Monegu, a ‘travel cake’ inspired by brioche and panettone that is in the colours of the Monaco flag. Another must-visit is Michelin star restaurant Yoshi where chef Takeo Yamazaki pays tribute to Japanese cuisine through his delicately flavoured soups, sushi and maki, all made with yoshi (kindness).
For a more authentic dining experience, try the familyowned Montgolfière Restaurant, renowned for serving up traditional dishes using locallysourced products. Sweet tooth? Make a beeline for the Chocolaterie de Monaco. First established in 1920, the confectioner is the official supplier of the Prince’s Palace and sells an array of gourmet chocolates as well as premium loose-leaf tea. It’s almost impossible not to leave armed with several boxes of the locally produced treats.
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A walk in the park
With 20% of Monaco covered in green spaces, there’s plenty of room to escape into the great outdoors. With the country planning to be carbon-neutral by 2050, and the availability of green transportation such as e-bikes, it is easy to explore the natural landscapes without harming them. There are plenty of gardens to relax in, but don’t miss the Jardin Exotique de Monaco. Located on a cliffside overlooking Monaco’s coastline, its home to exotic plants and flowers, including hundreds of different-sized cacti and other succulents. The garden is
For more information, visit: visitmonaco.com/en or call 020 7318 1092
currently undergoing a makeover and will re-open in 2022. Also making for a scenic stroll is the Princess Grace Rose Garden. As its name suggests, the space is adorned with some 4,000 rosebushes alongside contemporary sculptures. The garden is part of the Fontvieille Park which features Mediterranean plants such as olive, pine and cypress trees, as well as more exotic species such as strelitzias, stenocarpus and araucarias, and also works of art. Those after a longer walk should head to Cap d’Ail to climb to the top of the 550m Tête de Chien, or ‘The Dog’s Head’. From this rocky vantage point, you can enjoy views over the entire Principality. The perfect finale.
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
CARIBBEAN HERITAGE CITIES
Heritage jewels of the
Caribbean
Immerse yourself in the rich culture, history and traditions that permeate the Caribbean’s winding streets and eye-catching architecture. Here’s our guide to the wide array of heritage sites and cities that await beyond the beaches Words Nigel Tisdall
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istory lies strewn across the Caribbean like fallen coconuts. In Antigua, for example, there is a favourite spot in English Harbour where islanders like to wash their cars. It is a merry scene of music, banter and auto-worship, and the cleaners fill their buckets from a huge water catchment built in the 1740s by the Royal Navy – and still going strong. Look beyond the foam and sponges and there is a wealth of graffiti carved in the plaster by bored sailors. ‘Hacklet, belonging to his majesty’s ship Tavistock 1751’ reads one, while John Webb and Nat Russel from Anglesey felt moved to leave marks to show they visited this beach-fringed island 281 years ago. Such casual finds are typical of the way the traveller discovers those who once lived here in the Caribbean, from the indigenous Taíno to the dark days of the slave trade. Having spent more than 20 years exploring this region, I’ve grown
used to spotting cannon being used as fenceposts and sugar mills ingeniously repurposed as homes, hotel suites, dining rooms and museums – or, even, also on Antigua, as a police training academy. While I love the sunshine, beaches and rum here as much as anyone, it’s frustrating how that fly-and-flop image masks a formidable heritage. UNESCO recognised this wealth as early as 1982, when Old Havana was one of the first places to be granted World Heritage status. Today there are 21 UNESCO sites across the islands alone, ranging from the colonial architecture of Santo Domingo, the Dominican Republic’s capital, to the colossal but barely-visited Brimstone Hill Fortress on St Kitts. Such remnants are not just stones and monuments, but a fountain of stories with beating hearts born from the vibrant cook-up of cultures that defines this region. Food for thought and a swim in a warm, turquoise sea – now that’s a proper trip.
One last journey Christopher Columbus’ remains were kept in Havana’s Catedral de San Cristóbal from 1796 to 1898 before being taken to Seville
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Cartagena de Indias, Colombia
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Why go? Founded by the Spanish in 1533, Cartagena was one of the main Caribbean ports from where the colonisers funnelled the riches of the New World back to Europe – and the need to protect this wealth has left it ringed with fortifications including the colossal Castillo de San Felipe de Barajas and 12km of stone ramparts. Granted UNESCO World Heritage status for its historic importance, Cartagena’s also a popular beach stop with a spirited nightlife. To get your bearings head up to La Popa, a 150m hill crowned with a convent that offers a fine city views. Don’t miss: The walled Centro Histórico with its lattice of cobbled streets and flower-filled plazas where you can relax in the shade nibbling cocada de guayaba (guava with coconut) sweets. Visit the Museo del Oro Zenú for a glimpse of the glistening gold treasures the Spanish were seeking and the Palacio de la Inquisición to see how they brutally maintained their power. Local flavours: Like coffee? Rum? Chocolate? Ice cream? Cartageneros adore their food and drink and you can learn about all of these and more on a half-day tasting tour with Cartagena Connections (cartagenaconnections.com). Or join a cooking class to make typical dishes such as crab carimañolas (stuffed yuca fritters) and cassava-coconut cake. Our tip: Colombia has the greatest bird diversity in the world. A convenient way to appreciate this natural splendour is at the Aviario Nacional in Barú, a 50 minute drive south. The seven hectare aviary is arranged in three ecosystems with 190 ⊲ species to spot (aviarionacional.co).
Colonial Cartagena (clockwise from top) The centre of the slave trade during the Spanish colonial period, the Plaza de los Coches is now lined with arcaded sweet shops; ladies in colourful dresses, expertly balancing bowls of tropical fruit on their heads, are known as palenqueras; Cartagena’s Old Town sits next to the modern Bocagrande area
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Santo Domingo, Dominican Republic Why go? Founded in 1496 by Bartholomew Columbus, Santo Domingo was the first city in the NewWorld and has an abundance of churches, fortifications and museums to prove it. Nearly everything to see of historic importance is parcelled up in the 12 blocks of the Zona Colonial on the west bank of Río Ozama. Top of the bill is the Catedral Primada de América, completed in 1540, while the Museo Alcázar de Colón was once the powerhouse of the island’s first governor, Diego Columbus (Christopher’s eldest son). In the warm evenings, these ancient streets come alive with bars offering happy hours and live music; a cool Presidente beer slips down very nicely. Don’t miss: In the city’s leafy residential district of Gazcue, the Plaza de la Cultura is home to the country’s national theatre, library and several museums. Make a beeline for the Museo del Hombre Dominicano for its insights into the island’s original inhabitants, the Taíno, while the Museo de Arte Moderno features works by its foremost 20th century artists. Local flavours: The Malecón, the city’s long seafront boulevard, is where Dominicans grab a breather and enjoy some nightlife. Meanwhile, in the Zona Colonia,l there are free dance shows in Plaza de España on Friday and Saturday evenings; on Sundays the ruined stone walls of the Monasterio de San Francisco resound to a live band playing merengue and salsa. Our tip: The seaside isn’t the only place to relax in this lively city. In the Arroyo Hondo district you can stroll around the largest botanical gardens in the Caribbean. Covering 2 sq km, it displays flora from across the island and has an arboretum that ⊲ houses more than 1,500 species of tree.
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Pointing the way (clockwise from main )The statue of Christopher Columbus points north at the centre of the Parque Colon, which is close to the Catedral Primada de América; the striking 29m high clocktower of the Palacio Consistorial was added in 1913; street performers; night falls over the UNESCO-listed Alcazar de Colon; an open-air concert takes place in front of the 16th century Monasterio de San Francisco – said to be the first monastery built in New World
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Why go? Martinique’s capital is a full-on French port complete with mega-cruise ships, traffic congestion and a firm belief in the importance of lunch. Gallic formality blends with laidback Caribbean rhythms to create a vibrant and at times dishevelled mood. The Place de la Savane is a large rectangular seafront park dominated in its south-east corner by the haughty 17th-century Fort-St Louis, which is still used by the navy – some sections are open for tours. The heart of the city’s heritage lies between the park and Rivière Madame, an intense grid of streets centred on the Gothic Revival Cathèdral St-Louis, built in 1895 using an iron frame to withstand natural disasters. Don’t miss: Bibliothèque Schoelcher, a flamboyant building on the north-west corner of La Savane that was constructed for the 1889 World Exposition in Paris and then shipped here. It still functions as a free-entry public library and the ornate interior features wrought iron pillars, decorative tiles and the names of French literary greats writ large on the walls. Local flavours: The French restaurants in Martinique can be disappointing compared to those in mainland France so save your euros and enjoy a picnic in La Savane where there is even a small beach. Here you are never far from a pâtisserie, bien sûr, and you can pick up island fruits such as mangos, pineapples and the figue pomme (a small, sweet banana) in the charming Marché Lafcadio Hearn. Our tip: Take the 15-minute ferry ride from the pier near Pointe Simon south to Anse Mitan, a popular seaside spot where you can grab a swim then enjoy some ouassous flambés au rhum vieux (shrimps flambéed in aged rum) at a toes-in-thesand beach restaurant.
Reading history (clockwise from top) The Schoelcher Library was named after the slavery abolitionist who donated his private collection of around 9,000 books to the island on condition that a public library also be built; Martinique’s pre-Lenten Carnival is a mix of European and African traditions; Fort-de-France sits on a plain between the hills and the sea; Lafcadio Hearn market sells everything from tropical fruit to traditional rhum agricole
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Fort-de-France, Martinique
Willemstad, Curaçao
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Why go? With its picturesque UNESCO World Heritage-listed waterfront, brightly coloured gabled buildings and stores selling Gouda cheese and Delft pottery, Willemstad appears to present a classically Dutch scene. In fact it is much more interesting thanks to Curaçao’s cultural diversity – the island is home to over 50 nationalities and most residents speak English, Dutch, Spanish and Papiamentu (Creole). Easy to walk around, the city is split into two parts, Otrobanda and Punda, by the Sint Annabaai channel that is spanned by a swing bridge lit up at night. Visitors can respectfully explore this diverse heritage further at the Mikvé Israel-Emanuel, the oldest continuously used synagogue in the Western hemisphere, and the Museum Kurá Hulanda, which documents the island’s ties with West Africa through slavery. Don’t miss: A stroll in the Pietermaai district, in the east of the city, which has many fine Dutch 18th and 19th century buildings and doesn’t get swamped with cruise ship visitors. There are also boutique hotels and small restaurants worth returning to for dinner; try Mosa, which offers sharing plates featuring local shrimp, octopus and ceviche (mosarestaurant.com). Local flavours: Plasa Bieu is a casual, lunch-only former market in Punda serving hearty stews and island specialties like funchi (polenta) and cactus soup. Or book a half-day Caribbean cookery class with cheery Dutch chef Helmi Smeulders (helmismeulders.com). Our tip: Willemstad is flat so cycling is a lovely way to explore – Art Now Tours offers insightful guided rides to see the vivid street art of Punda ⊲ (facebook.com/arttourscuracao).
Repurposed premises (clockwise from right) Willemstad’s historic centre, including the Punda district, was originally built by the Dutch as a hub for the brutal slave trade – now it’s home to vibrant street art; in Curaçao, the beach is never far away; a street musician plays a benta, a one-stringed musical bow; Dutch settlers originally painted Willemstad’s houses bright colours to reduce the glare from the sun
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St George’s, Grenada Why go? Sprinkled over a promontory on the island’s south-west coast, the colourfully painted buildings of St George’s make a striking tableau as they circle around a well-protected harbour. Exploring inevitably means hiking up and down hills – the view from Fort George, built by the French in 1705, is worth the effort, along with a look at St George’s Anglican Church, dating from 1825, which has bravely defied numerous hurricanes. The Grenada National Museum, on the corner of Young and Monckton Streets, is a modest affair so combine it with a visit to Market Square – Saturday morning is the prime time to appreciate the island’s riches including the fruits and spices for which Grenada is famed. Don’t miss: Love chocolate? Grenada now has five artisan producers and you can learn all about this moreish confection at House of Chocolate, which combines a small exhibition with a yummy café and shop (houseofchocolategnd.com). Local flavours: St George’s is the sort of place where you should sit back and watch Grenadan life go by – preferably with a cold local beer and some freshly grilled fish in front of you. A top spot for this is the Carenage waterfront promenade, where Sails Restaurant has harbour views and a menu that glides confidently from tuna salad to goat roti and homemade ice cream (facebook. com/sailsgrenada). Our tip: Grenada regularly wins medals at the Chelsea Flower Show and several gardens that send blooms, such as Hyde Park and Smithy’s, are in the hills close to St George’s. Visits are by appointment and can be arranged via Caribbean ⊲ Horizons (caribbeanhorizons.com).
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Unique Grenada (clockwise from bottom left) African, Carib, French and English influences blend in Grenada’s traditional dress; downtown St George’s is arranged around the inner harbour called the Carenage; 36,000 people – around a third of the island’s population – lives in the capital; steelpan music may have originated in Trinidad but has spread across the Caribbean; the colours of Grenada’s flag symbolise sunshine and friendliness (yellow), lushness and agriculture (green) and the people’s courage and vitality (red)
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Bridgetown, Barbados
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Why go? Cheapside, Milk Market, Wellington Street... There’s a familiar ring to the street names in this easygoing waterfront capital graced with splendid neo-Gothic Parliament Buildings, an inner harbour known as the Careenage and the Garrison Historic Area, which has been declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its ‘outstanding British colonial architecture’. The city centre is easily explored on foot, taking in notable landmarks such as the veranda-ringed Mutual Building, erected in 1895, and National Heroes (formerly Trafalgar) Square. Tucked away on the south side of Chamberlain Bridge, the 1893 Blackwoods Screw Dock is the oldest surviving ship-lift in the world, while the nearby dazzling sands and turquoise waters of Brownes Beach may prove irresistible. For a sense of the island’s past, tour the Barbados Museum and George Washington House (where the future United States president stayed in 1751) in Garrison Savannah, which lies 3km to the south. Don’t miss: A day at the races. All island life comes to the Garrison Savannah track, where horses have been running since 1845. Meetings are generally held on Saturdays (barbadosturfclub.org). Local flavours: Try some Bajan dishes such as fried flying fish, pepperpot (a spicy meat stew with cassareep and cinnamon) and coconut cream pie at Brown Sugar, a garden courtyard restaurant near Garrison Savannah that offers a bountiful buffet lunch (brownsugarbarbados.net). Our tip: Barbados has a trusty network of blueand-yellow public buses that provide a cheap and entertaining way to travel in and out of the capital. Pay as you board with Barbados dollars (transportboard.com).
Sand, spirit & the Savannah (clockwise from bottom left) There are beaches in walking distance from central Bridgetown; the red clock tower on the main guardhouse at the Garrison Savannah was built around 1803; arts and culture are vibrantly celebrated on Barbados and in 2017 it hosted CARIFESTA, the biannual Caribbean Festival of Arts; the entire downtown area of Bridgetown was named a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2012
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Georgetown, Guyana Why go? English-speaking Guyana produces excellent rum and its engaging capital comes scented with sweet smells wafting across from the Diamond Distillery, which is set on the east bank of the Demerara River (tasting sessions available). The national capital has some attractive buildings, not always in the finest condition, that reflect its British and Dutch heritage – the latter’s talent for engineering is manifest in numerous canals and a sea wall that runs along the coast for 450km. St George’s Cathedral, built in 1892 and one of the tallest wooden structures in the world, is the flagship photo op while cricket fans will want to see the historic Bourda ground and its modern successor, Providence Stadium. Save time, too, for the National Museum and the Walter Roth Museum of Anthropology, which is devoted to the country’s indigenous peoples. Don’t miss: A sunset cruise on the Demerara River, passing under Harbour Bridge to visit mangroves and banks rich in birdlife including egrets, herons, kites and sandpipers (book via wilderness-explorers.com). Local flavours: Run by chef Delven Adams, the Backyard Cafe serves healthy, fresh, organic Guyanese food in a casual setting; market tours and cookery classes are also available (facebook. com/backyardcafegy). Our tip: Head to the free-entry Botanical Gardens, which a good place to look for some of Georgetown’s 200 bird species, including Blood-coloured Woodpecker, macaws, parrots and great horned owls; sightings are optimum at dawn or dusk. ⊲
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Wooden wonders (clockwise from top) Guyana’s plentiful supply of wood means many of Georgetown’s older buildings were constructed from timber; Stabroek is the city’s largest market; topping out at 43.5m, St George’s Cathedral is one of the tallest wooden churches in the world; Guyana’s Mashramani festival, held in February, takes its name from an indigenous Amerindian word meaning ‘celebration of a job well done’
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HAVANA
Why go? History has dealt the Cuban capital a fistful of aces: once-magnificent Baroque buildings, the traumas and triumphs of revolution, salsa, rum, cigars, musicians on every corner... Home to over two million Habaneros, this sensual and intoxicating city is as much about soaking up the atmosphere as seeing sights. The plazas of Habana Vieja, the Old City, are the best place to start exploring, followed by landmarks like the Capitolio Nacional, so similar to Washington DC’s Capitol, and the huge image of Che Guevara on the Ministerio del Interior in Plaza de la Revolución. Must-see museums include the Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes, which has the largest art collection in the Caribbean (concentrate on the Cuban works) and the Museo de la Revolución, bristling with weapons, tanks and rockets. Don’t miss: A ride in a classic car. It may be a tourist cliché, but cruising down the avenidas in a 1952 purple-and-cream open-top Oldsmobile is a blissful moment of time travel that you never forget (oldcarshavana.com).
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Local flavours: Havana is city where you have to plunge in. Book a salsa lesson, ride in a coco taxi (which looks like a big yellow crash helmet with a scooter on the front), tour a cigar factory, dine amid faded grandeur in the long-established paladar (private restaurant) La Guarida and order a potent Papa Doble cocktail at La Floridita, Ernest Hemingway’s drink of choice at his favourite haunt. If you need a breather, grab some seaside downtime on the beaches of Playas del Este. Our tip: Get some perspective on life with a visit to the Necrópolis de Cristóbal Colón. One of the world’s great cemeteries, it covers over 0.5 sq km and has some 800,000 graves, including many grand mausoleums and family vaults built for the well-to-do. Further afield: Cuba is a similar length to Britain with a wealth of heritage cities to explore. Experts Cuba Private Travel can arrange multi-city tours (cubaprivatetravel.com). Accommodation in B&B-style casas particulares can be booked through CubaCasa (cubacasa.co.uk).
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Cuba’s Heritage Cities
CARIBBEAN HERITAGE DESTINATIONS
SANTIAGO DE CUBA
Located in the mountainous east, Santiago de Cuba is the island’s second-largest city and the most Caribbean. Santiagueros are renowned for their love of music and partying – both exploited to the full during July’s Carnaval – and don’t leave without drinking a daiquiri (rum with lime, sugar and ice), which originates from here. Key sights are the Moncada Barracks, an important location during Cuba’s revolution, and (10km to the south) the UNESCO-listed Castillo de San Pedro de la Roca del Morro, with fortifications and a museum devoted to pirates. At the weekend, head to pedestrianised Calle Heredia, where there’s always music, while the Museo Emilio Bacardí Moreau has a collection of pre-Columbian and colonial artefacts amassed by a former mayor.
SANTA CLARA
Some 300km east of Havana, the city of Santa Clara is where memories of Che Guevara loom largest. It was the Argentine revolutionary’s liberation of the inland city in 1958 that sealed the overthrow of the Batista regime, and so was the fitting place for him to be buried. Cuba’s reverence for Castro’s right-hand man is writ large in his mausoleum and monuments such as Tren Blindado, which commemorates an attack on an armoured train using a bulldozer. University students energise the city’s faded streets and cigar lovers can take a tour of the Constantino Pérez Carrodegua tobacco factory. For a whiff of life before the rebels stormed in, pay a visit to the Museo de Artes Decorativas, which displays elegant china, art nouveau mirrors and mahogany furniture.
TRINIDAD
On the south coast, Trinidad was founded in 1514 and has been justifiably declared a World Heritage site for its well-preserved buildings created during the early 19th century sugar boom. For an overview, climb the bell-tower of the Museo de la Lucha Contra Bandidos, or just wander the maze of cobbled streets and picturesque plazas adorned with flower-filled balconies and decorative rejas (window grilles). Fans of period interiors should seek out the city’s Museo de Arquitectura Colonial while the Museo Romántico, housed in a two-storey palatial mansion dating from 1740, displays art and antiques beneath splendid carved cedar ceilings. When you’ve had enough exploring, head for the beach at Playa Ancón, 12km south.
CAMAGÜEY
Set amid the broad plains of central Cuba, the island’s third-largest city has been awarded World Heritage listing for its historic heart of ‘serpentine streets and irregular urban blocks’. These were a defence to confuse pirates in the lawless 16th century and are unusual for Spanish colonial settlements. Plaza San Juan de Dios is an impressive square framed with bright pastel facades, where the Museo de San Juan de Dios covers the city’s history; while there, also seek out the Campana de Toledo restaurant, which has a courtyard garden ideal for a lazy lunch. The city is renowned for its tinajónes, large earthenware pots used to store water, and has a lively cultural scene evident from numerous art galleries and the worldclass Camagüey Ballet.
CIENFUEGOS
On the south coast, Cienfuegos was founded by the Spanish in 1819 to exploit Bahía de Cienfuegos, a superb natural harbour spanning 88 sq km. The architecture here is more modern than in other heritage cities and the spacious streets include Paseo del Prado, the longest in Cuba. “This must be one of the quietest ports in the world,” reflects a character in Graham Greene’s 1958 novel Our Man in Havana, and the city still has an unhurried air. The main square, Parque José Martí, is graced with the ornate 1890 Teatro Tomás Terry, a 900-seater auditorium decorated with Cuban hardwoods. The vast Jardín Botánico Soledad, 14km east, was created in 1901 and now has prize collections of orchids, palms and cacti. ⊲
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Why go? Founded in 1521, San Juan is the gateway to the compelling fusion of Hispanic, US and Caribbean cultures that is Puerto Rico. Don’t be put off by its heavy gearing to the cruise-ship market – this exuberant city wants to party with you and offers plenty to enjoy, from a battlemented historic core to arty neighbourhoods and fun-loving high-rise beach resorts. Don’t miss: Old San Juan, a gorgeous ensemble of Spanish colonial buildings in bold colours with rampant flowers and blue-cobblestoned streets. It is set on a headland at the end of a peninsula and protected by the mighty Castillos San Felipe del Morro and San Cristóbal, both open for tours (nps.gov/saju). Local flavours: No visit to Puerto Rico is complete until you’ve tried some mofongo (mashed fried plantains), lechón asado (spit-roasted pork) and a piña colada or two. Spoon offers various foodie experiences including a cooking class that begins with a market visit, or take things easy on an evening cocktail tour of Old San Juan (thespoonexperience.com). Our tip: Puerto Ricans have boundless energy and creativity. For a taste, head to the arty neighbourhood of Santurce, which has an array of striking murals, cutting-edge galleries and the sophisticated Museo de Arte de Puerto Rico. Tours can be arranged through theartwalkpr (theartwalkpr.com). Further afield: Puerto Rico’s second city, Ponce, lies 75km south-west of San Juan on the south coast and is well worth some time. The 19th century sugar boom brought great wealth that resulted in a neat grid of streets endowed with a colourful parade of colonial, Art Nouveau and Art Deco buildings. Crowning this, the Museo de Arte de Ponce houses a thrilling and unexpected collection that includes major Pre-Raphaelite works by artists such as Frederic Leighton and Edward Burne-Jones (museoarteponce.org).
Caribbean culture & cuisine (clockwise from bottom left) Mofongo is made from fried unripe plantains mashed with garlic and crackling pork; Castillo San Felipe del Morro, founded in 1521, was retired by the US Army in 1961; Puerto Ricans love to dance – local styles include folky plena and Afro-Puerto Rican bomba; Old San Juan was once encircled by 5km of walls but in the late 19th century, some sections were demolished to allow the city to expand
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English Harbour, Antigua
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Why go? On the island’s south coast, this restored naval base is a laidback mix of heritage buildings, waterside bars and restaurants, and a sheltered harbour that is at the heart of Antigua’s long-standing love affair with sailing. Horatio Nelson declared it a ‘vile spot’ when stationed here in 1784 but today his name graces the UNESCO-listed Nelson’s Dockyard, home to an absorbing ensemble of Georgian-era buildings and a marina bristling with vintage sailing boats and immaculately kept superyachts. Don’t miss: Housed in the former naval officers’ house, the well-presented Dockyard Museum brings the past to life through minutiae – such as a bone button and trading beads used by slaves – and gives insights into Nelson’s life, including his death mask. Local flavours: For over 30 years Antiguans have been holding a popular Sunday afternoon barbecue and party up at Shirley Heights, a military post and signal station with a lofty view over English Harbour. The fun starts with steelpan music then local bands take over after the sun sets, with cheery chefs dishing up jerk chicken and grilled fish, and drinks served in the 1791 Guard House (shirleyheightslookout.com). Our tip: Nelson’s Dockyard National Park has kilometres of coastal hiking trails while the English Harbour Commonwealth Walkway – for now, still a work-in-progress – links up its monuments and sites. When it’s time for a swim, head to the gentle waters of Galleon Beach or Pigeon Point Beach where you may well be joined by a passing turtle ⊲ (nationalparksantigua.com).
An Admiral location (clockwise from top) Nelson’s Dockyard became vital in the 18th century, being the only harbour in the Eastern Caribbean big enough for safe naval ship repairs; the Dockyard Museum occupies the former Admiral’s House; Warri is a Caribbean pit-and-pebble board game that originated in northern Africa; Nelson didn’t like Antigua – he was unpopular with local merchants and ‘most woefully pinched’ by mosquitoes
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Why go? Suriname’s road signs, maps, menus and official documents may be in Dutch, but after a few hours in this intriguing country you soon realise what an stimulating mash-up of Amerindian, Asian and Creole cultures it is. Almost half the population live in the capital yet its mood is sultry and benign, a place where commuters travel by motorised pirogue (wooden canoes) and streets bear curious names like Mr F H R Lim A Postraat. The most venerable buildings are constructed from the flat red bricks that were shipped over as ballast while the colossal St Peter and Paul Cathedral was constructed using Surinamese cedar. Start your exploring at Fort Zeelandia, which guards the mouth of the Suriname River and has a comprehensive historical museum, then take a stroll in the nearby Palmentuin, a public park said to have 1,000 palm trees. Don’t miss: A walk around the historic and remarkably intact Inner City, which was granted World Heritage status for its ‘gradual fusion of Dutch architectural influence with local techniques and materials’. Elaborate wooden houses and a mid-18th century street plan create an extraordinary time capsule that needs no guide – just wander and wonder. Local flavours: Head for the riverfront cafes and restaurants around Fort Zeelandia for a taste of Surinamese cuisine with its many influences including Chinese, Javanese, Jewish and Creole. De Gadri is an easy-going, mid-price option with dishes that combine chicken and spices with noodles, rice or the root vegetable pomtajer (facebook.com/degadrisu). Our tip: Take a day trip east to Commewijne, home to historic plantations, then visit Nieuw Amsterdam, a former fort and prison. Travel options include by boat, bike and tuk-tuk (orangesuriname.com).
Dutch designs (clockwise from bottom left) The Dutch colonists left their mark on the local architecture, such as this renovated white wooden building in Paramaribo’s historic Inner City; a wooden church in Nieuw Amsterdam, sitting just across from Paramaribo over the Suriname River; Creole women selling fruit and vegetables at a local market; colourful boats waiting on the Suriname River
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Paramaribo, Suriname
The Caribbean collection
Here are a dozen more islands that combine lush gold-and-green scenery with compelling heritage hallmarks
JAMAICA
Fans of Georgian architecture will find much to admire in Falmouth, which was founded in 1790 on the north coast of this charismatic island, and Spanish Town, the island capital from 1534 to 1872. Several Great Houses have survived with Rose Hall in Montego Bay the best known, while Seville Heritage Park, near Ocho Rios, includes artefacts from the island’s original inhabitants, the Taíno. Don’t miss the lofty Blue Mountains where the Heritage Gardens at Cold Spring reveal how this celebrated coffee was farmed here in the mid-18th century.
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US VIRGIN ISLANDS
Comprising three islands, the USVI was a Danish colony from 1754 to 1917. St Thomas has reminders of this in street names such as Kronprindsens Gade and in the cemetery at Hospital Ground where illustrious Danes lie buried. St Thomas Historical Trust offers tours of downtown and Hassel Island, where there are many military and industrial ruins. On St Croix, the largest island, Christiansted National Historic Site is centred on an 18th century Danish-built fort while a self-drive heritage trail takes in the island’s churches, museums and former sugar plantations.
MONTSERRAT
Just over 40km south-west of Antigua, Montserrat is a British Overseas Territory where the abiding mood is Irish. Settlers from the Emerald Isle arrived in the 1630s and even now St Patrick’s Day is a national holiday and visitors get a shamrock stamp in their passport. In 1995, eruptions of Soufrière Hills volcano left two-thirds of the island off-limits and the former capital, Plymouth is now dubbed the ‘Pompeii of the Caribbean’. This can be visited on (condition-dependent) tours while the Montserrat Volcano Observatory recounts this explosive story.
THE BAHAMAS
The Bahamas has become a byword for a paradise but, in the past, threats from pirates and hostile nations meant it required robust defences. On the gateway island of New Providence, Forts Charlotte, Montagu and Fincastle can all be visited; the last, built in 1793, is shaped with a prow and wheel like a paddle steamer. Other heritage sites are linked to an influx in the 1780s of Loyalists who remained faithful to the British Crown during the American Revolution. Remote Crooked Island was once home to 40 plantations with 1,200 slaves, including fortified, and now overgrown, Hope Great House. ⊲
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Life revolves around the sea in this scattering of 40 low-lying islands, south of The Bahamas. On Grand Turk, the Turks and Caicos National Museum displays finds from the wreck of a Spanish caravel that sank off Molasses Reef around 1513, including weapons, kitchenware and tools. Divers can swim over the anchor and chains of HMS Endymion, a British warship that went down near Salt Cay in 1790. On North Caicos, Wade’s Green Plantation is this British Overseas Territory’s chief heritage attraction, established by Loyalists in 1789 to grow cotton and now a poignant ensemble of ruins.
ANGUILLA
A British Overseas Territory just 26km long, Anguilla is best known for its glorious beaches. English settlers arrived as early as 1650 and the island’s story is told at the Heritage Collection Museum in East End, which covers everything from schoolboy punishments to the bizarre ‘Bay of Piglets’ revolution of 1969 that London bobbies were sent to quell. The Anguilla Heritage Trail picks out points of interest including Wallblake House, a plantation house from 1787, and Katouche Bay, where the fossilised remains of Amblyrhiza inundata – a two-metre long rat that dwelled here 125,000 years ago – were found in a cave.
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DOMINICA
Wild mountains, superb walking trails and no commercialism or crowds are the chief attractions of this ‘Nature Island’. Britain and France fought over Dominica for centuries and the Cabrits National Park has an impressively restored 18th century military garrison, Fort Shirley. On the east coast, Kalinago Territory is a 15,000 hectare reserve established in 1903 for the last indigenous people of the Caribbean. Historically described as Caribs, but today known as Kalinago, they are of Amerindian ancestry and a visitor centre at Kalinago Barana Autê has exhibits and activities devoted to their culture.
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ST KITTS & NEVIS
Settled by the English and French in the 1620s, St Kitts is considered a ‘mother colony’ of the Caribbean. Brimstone Hill Fortress, set in a national park, was once home to over 1,000 British soldiers and their families and has extensive fortifications and a museum. The restored ruins of a sugar factory and rum distillery can be seen at Wingfield Estate while the St Kitts Scenic Railway offers a delightful two-hour trip around the north of the island on a narrow-gauge track originally built to carry sugar cane. On Nevis, the main draw is plantation-style hotels such as The Hermitage and Montpelier Plantation.
ST VINCENT & THE GRENADINES
St Vincent is a mighty, piratical island dominated by the La Soufrière volcano, which erupted in April 2021, causing havoc in the island’s north. Kingstown, the capital, at the southern end, has a raffish charm with narrow streets, faded colonial buildings and a lively produce market. Fort Charlotte, built in 1806, enjoys a commanding position overlooking the harbour while St Vincent Botanic Gardens, established in 1765, nurtured breadfruit plants brought from Tahiti by Captain Bligh. Accessible by boat, Fort Duvernette is dramatically perched on a rock beside Young Island and was built by the British in the early 1790s.
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ST LUCIA
Pigeon Island National Landmark, at the north tip of this rugged isle, is the main window on St Lucia’s past. Now popular for picnics and festivals, it was once a fortified island squabbled over by French and British forces – explore the ruins of Fort Rodney and climb to Signal Peak lookout. Close to the capital, Castries, hilltop Morne Fortune Historic Area has more military buildings and a memorial to the Royal Inniskilling Fusiliers who captured the position in 1796. In the south, Balenbouche Estate is a family-run former sugar plantation established in the 1740s that offers tours and cottages.
ST EUSTATIUS
Also known as Statia, St Eustatius is a small, Dutch volcanic island near St Kitts, reached by flying from St Maarten. In the 18th century it was a booming trading port for slaves and goods; the shore of Oranje Bay is lined with ruins of submerged warehouses that you can snorkel around. Oranjestad, the only town, is billed as a ‘historic gem’ and includes well-preserved Fort Oranje, the restored shell of a synagogue and a museum set in a merchant’s house. Divers can explore the pristine waters of St Eustatius National Marine Park to look for rare blue beads, once used for trading, which you are allowed to take home.
TOBAGO
Tobago’s greatest heritage is green and leafy – the Main Ridge Forest Reserve. This was declared a protected area as early as 1776 and a good way to discover its secrets is on the two-hour Gilpin Trace Trail. The island was the subject of an epic tussle with the French, changing hands 31 times before coming under British rule in 1814. Close to the island’s capital, Scarborough, Fort King George is the most substantial legacy of this, with an officers’ mess, powder magazine and cannon. Here, the Tobago Historical Museum relates the island’s history from ⊲ Amerindian times.
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Vital statistics
Languages: English and Spanish predominate with French or Dutch spoken in some destinations. Time: GMT -4 and -5 (summer -3 and -4). Visas: UK nationals don’t require a visa except for visiting Cuba, Puerto Rico and the US Virgin Islands. Money: Most destinations have their own currency but the US dollar (US$) is also widely accepted. Eight islands use the Eastern Caribbean dollar (EC$), currently EC$3.72 to the UK£, while the euro (€) rules in French territories.
Ambling among the art Pedestrians walk by paintings for sale at an artist’s studio in the Barrio Getsemani, Cartagena
When to go
Mid-December to April: Peak season for winter sun-seekers from chillier climes. Prices spike for Christmas and New Year and can be high around February half-term and Easter. There is little rain and evenings may be cool in northern parts. May to August: Expect hotter temperatures and lower prices for travel before the school holidays. Mangos are in season and some islands have major festivals, such as Crop Over on Barbados and Spice Mas on Grenada. September to October: The hurricane season officially runs from June to November but the most severe weather often happens in these months, including Hurricanes Irma and Maria which caused widespread damage in 2017. Not all islands are affected, such as Aruba, Bonaire and Curaçao.
Health & safety
COVID-19 protocols vary, check gov.uk/foreign-travel-advice for the current situation. Take precautions for the heat and also to avoid mosquito bites, which are the cause of Zika virus and dengue and chikungunya fevers. For recommended booster info, visit your local travel health centre or fitfortravel.nhs.uk
Map illustration: Scott Jessop; Alamy
Getting there
Most UK visitors travel from London on scheduled flights with British Airways (ba.com) and Virgin Atlantic (virginatlantic.com), flying time is around nine hours. Antigua and Barbados are the main hubs for these airlines although they do fly direct to many other island destinations as well, including Cuba, Jamaica, St Lucia, Dominican Republic, Nassau/Paradise Island and Grenada. TUI (tui.co.uk) operates seasonal charter flights to popular islands such as Jamaica, St Lucia and Cuba. Other options are flying via Paris with Air France (airfrance.co.uk)
and via Amsterdam with KLM (klm.com). Both airlines serve St Maarten, another regional hub, while American Airlines (aa.com) has flights via the USA to many Caribbean destinations including The Bahamas, Turks & Caicos and Dominican Republic.
Getting around
Many carriers offer inter-island flights including interCaribbean (intercaribbean.com), Caribbean Airlines (caribbean-airlines.com) and Air Caraïbes (aircaraibes.com). Always get a window seat as scenic views are guaranteed. Ferries are geared to local needs and best used for short transfers. Taxis can be pricey so consider hiring a car – you may need to purchase a local driving licence that the supplier can provide. Local buses both public and private (minivans) are cheap, entertaining and rarely comfortable; a ride in Barbados costs a flat BDS$3.50 (£1.27).
Cost of travel
Booking via a tour operator is perhaps the best option for popular islands and offers full protection; for a late deal check out tropicalsky. co.uk, caribbeanwarehouse.co.uk and britishairways.com/en-gb/offers/late-deals. Independent travellers will find the widest accommodation choice on larger islands such as Jamaica, Dominican Republic and Cuba. There is a wealth of small, characterful hotels. Paying by credit card can attract a surcharge, and always carry some cash as systems may not be working. If you pay with US dollar bills, the change will most likely come in local currency.
Food & drink
Get ready to feast on fresh fish and lobster, spicy meats and luscious tropical fruits. Most islands have specialties, such as chocolate in Grenada and Jamaica’s Blue Mountain coffee. Forget about costly imported wines and go for local rums and the growing number of island-made craft beers. Restaurants in resort areas can be expensive but there are always cheaper options along with bountiful markets and roadside stalls. In high season restaurants need reserving with a service charge or tipping the norm. Kitchens can be slow so get your order in fast if travelling with children.
Further reading & information
Caribbean Islands (Lonely Planet, £17) is the most comprehensive guide to the region, a new edition was published in June. UK publisher Papillotte Press is devoted to fiction, non-fiction and poetry from the Caribbean (papillottepress.co.uk). Sugar in the Blood by Andrea Stuart (Portobello Books, £10) and The Sugar Barons by Matthew Parker (Windmill Books, £11) offer valuable insights into the days of sugar and slavery. The Caribbean Tourism Organisation has information on 26 destinations in the region (0208 948 0057, caribbean.co.uk). WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS The Caribbean: Wanderlust Travel Guide – wanderlust.co.uk/destinations/caribbean/ ‘The Caribbean: An island guide with Audley Travel’ offers an overview with good tips – youtube.com/ watch?v=Wg7C7TLuhJs ‘Best Caribbean Songs 2020’ Spotify playlist by local music authority Jacob Edgar– https://open.spotify. com/playlist/4EvLS7QDBbWdzGVzystlGJ
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Slow down in Montserrat
YOUR GREEN ADVENTURE AWAITS
A
t just over 17km long and 11km wide, Montserrat offers an uncrowded slice of laid-back Caribbean island life. The Soufrière Hills Volcano is the main attraction, and a humbling reminder of nature’s brute force following a series of volcanic eruptions in the 1990s. But the island’s other draws – including black sand beaches, thriving coral reefs, and rainforest-covered hills – provide plenty of adventures for nature lovers looking to relax and rejuvenate...
Enjoy the diverse walks
Montserrat’s north was left unscathed by the volcanic eruptions, retaining its natural beauty. This can be explored on several verdant hiking trails that meander through the Centre Hills, the island’s largest remaining forest area.
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The two kilometre Oriole Walkway Trail, for example, weaves through thick foliage to the top of the over 400m-high Lawyer’s Mountain with its sweeping views of the Silver Hills and Caribbean Sea. Keep your eyes peeled for the national bird, the Montserrat oriole after which the trail is named. Another revealing yet gentle hike is the Cot Trail. This two-and-a-half kilometre walk starts near the Montserrat National Trust and takes you past farmland, fruit trees and ferns. Near the end of the hike, be sure to stop at the Runaway Ghaut to drink the water. Montserrat’s famous ghauts (pronounced ‘guts’) are steep ravines that carry rainwater from the hills down to the sea, and legend has it that those who drink from the Runaway Ghaut will return to Montserrat again one day. Over in the
north-west of the island, hikers can combine nature with culture in Soldier Ghaut where petroglyphs engraved on a volcanic rock can be explored. They were only discovered in 2016 and are thought to have been carved by Amerindians some 1,000 to 1,500 years ago.
Hit the beach
Due to its explosive geology, most of Montserrat’s beaches are powdered by black and grey volcanic sands – a striking contrast to the deep blue ocean and a novelty for many visitors to the Caribbean. Framed by a pair of rugged cliffs and fringed with palm trees, Little Bay beach is the island’s most popular for swimming, stand-up paddle-boarding and kayaking. Be sure to try the fresh seafood at one of its beach bars.
Montserrat Tourism Division; Shutterstock
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Primed for adventure (clockwise from this) In the mid-1990s, Soufrière Hills Volcano erupted multiple times, shaping the island’s landscape; New Beach on the east coast was created after the volcanic eruptions; purple-throated carib; many of Montserrat’s hiking trails have been used for centuries to link villages and farmland; the island boasts over 50 dive sites to explore; St Peter’s Church; hiking in Centre Hills; Little Bay; one of Montserrat’s many black sand beaches
Tucked in a cove under a forested cliff, Rendezvous Bay is Montserrat’s only whitesand beach and can be reached in less than an hour by foot from Little Bay. You can also boat or kayak to the beach from Little Bay. Once there, enjoy a secluded picnic on the powdery sands. Offshore, coral reefs thrive and snorkellers and divers alike can enjoy fine visibility and an abundance of underwater life including sponges, heads of brain coral, kaleidoscopic tropical fish, spotted eagle rays, spiny lobsters and even nurse sharks.
Spot the wildlife
Little Bay, or for an extra thrill, join a guide to swim into the caves. Leatherback, green and hawksbill turtles all nest on many beaches in Montserrat. See them at Woodlands Bay, when at night from April to September, the females deposit their eggs in the black sand, and later in the season the tiny hatchlings emerge and scurry to the sea.
Montserrat Tourism Division; Shutterstock
Montserrat has an exceptionally rich birdlife and most of the over 100 species on the island can be seen in the lush Centre Hills. While on the forest trails, keep an eye and ear out for birds such as the Antillean crested hummingbird, forest thrush, bridled quaildove, purple-throated carib, pearly-eyed thrasher and the endemic Montserrat oriole. The undergrowth is home to a Jurassic array of reptiles and mammals such as agoutis, lizards, geckos, iguanas and the confusingly-named mountain chicken, which is in fact one of the largest frogs in the world and is endemic to the islands of Montserrat and Dominica. Elsewhere on the island, at Rendezvous Bay a colony of thousands of Antillean fruit-eating bats roost above the eerily-lit waters of their seafront twin caves. One cave houses the males while the other is home to the females and their young. Paddle past on a kayak from
For more information, go to: visitmontserrat.com
Take in the views
The Soufrière Hills Volcano and its immediate ash-smothered surroundings lie in a largely off-limits exclusion zone comprising more than half of southern Montserrat, but several hill-top vantage points provide sobering yet extraordinary views of the devastated areas. The Montserrat Volcano Observatory in the village of Flemmings was established after the first phreatic eruption on 18 July 1995, and is still staffed today by scientists monitoring volcanic activity. It gives an overview of how the eruptions impacted life on the island, and visitors can watch a 20 minute film that shows footage before, during and after the eruption. From the observation platform, look out at the exclusion zone, the abandoned former capital of Plymouth, and the cloud-capped volcano looming beyond. The viewpoint on Garibaldi Hill on the west coast also takes in the haunting ruins of Plymouth as well as the Belham Valley filled with ash and rock. Jack Boy Hill on the island’s eastern side overlooks the old airport and villages covered by pyroclastic flows. From here, get a last look at the dome of Soufrière Hills for some final reflections on how the volcano has shaped so much of this island’s geology and history.
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We take the railway on a magical history tour of Thailand’s ancient capitals of Ayutthaya, Sukhothai and Chiang Mai in search of a mystical past hidden from the crowds Words & photographs Alex Robinson
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n the edge of the forest, the mix of religion and reverence afforded to the king, whose beyond the pagodas and giant portrait hangs everywhere. And the Thai are happy to keep buddhas of the ancient ruins it that way, deftly avoiding questions about the royal family, of Sukhothai, lost in gnarled Buddhism and that most secret side of all – Thai magic. roots and tangled vines, was But I wanted to find out more. On this visit, I reflected a midden of ancient rubble. on the Skytrain in from the airport, I would delve deeper. It was almost indistinguish- I would take the railway through Thailand’s history, this more able from the fallen leaves social, intimate form of travel being all the better to uncover – a small mound like a tiny Thailand’s identity and secrets. My seven-day route would long-barrow. wind me north through Thailand’s ancient capitals: Ayutthaya, Just for curiosity I rooted around with my feet, clearing Sukhothai and Chiang Mai. And it begins where all Thai joura patch of vegetation and stones. Half-submerged in soil, neys begin: in Bangkok. I saw what looked like a piece of broken plant pot. I pulled it out. It was a small disc, with tiny, molded feet. Worms and PILLAR OF THE COMMUNITY nematodes, moss and liverworts had created a pattern of intri- So my first visit, the next morning was to the City Pillar; cate tracery across its surface. Rain wash from the soil was so a true Bangkok secret. Few tourists even know of its existence. It is a passing reference in guidebooks; a sight absent from deeply soaked-in that it had left organic, stippled stains. “Let me see that,” said Khun Thakham, looking surprised. ‘must see’ lists.Yet it is the spiritual locus of the city. And it lies I handed it to the guide, who carefully examined the object in the heart of Bangkok’s oldest, most distinguished district – Rattanakosin. Once part of a river archipelago, this is the area in her hands. that gave Thailand’s capital its name (Bang Ko means ‘the “Do you know what this is?” village on an island in a stream’), or so I thought. Later that I shook my head. “It’s an ancient firing stand. It was made for a porcelain day, I would discover that even Bangkok’s name is a secret. celadon vase to sit on as it hardened – some-700 years ago. The Pillar is secreted away inside a prosaic shrine beside This rubble must be the ruins of a kiln.” the busy Ratchadamnoen Nai dual carriageway, a block She looked towards me, turning the disc in her hand like from the river. When I stepped inside, the air was heavy it was a precious object. with incense and the atmosphere as strange and occult “It seems your search for Thailand’s secrets is paying off. as a ouija board. In the centre of the lowly-lit room was The vase this forgotten stand was a giant golden staff. Locals knelt made for would have been a real treasreverently before it – chanting quietly. “The Emerald Buddha I felt a tingle in my belly, a sense of ure – hardened by temperatures hotter than a volcano; jade green; covered in danger – as if I’d chanced upon some was a glowing focus peony-flower patterns, its porcelain mysterious masonic ritual after openof energy, clothed in as smooth and polished as a jewel... ing a door I shouldn’t in an ancient an exquisite cape of It perhaps would have been sent to mansion house. A woman looked China, to Angkor or even the court of filigree gold. I felt that around at me – bewildered to see the Siamese king himself.” a farang here. In one of the world’s tingle again as I gazed most tourist-visited cities. I looked at the little disc – a relic of a glorious past in a city of ruined Later as I was leaving, she followed at it, hypnotised” buildings, buried for centuries. When me and beckoned me over. She asked this stand was made, I thought, Asia why was I visiting the City Pillar? Why ruled the world. And Thailand was at its cutting edge – in had I knelt before it like local people do? She was impressed an age when Europe was making crude, hand-shaped pots. that I had taken the trouble. I told her of my quest to discover I was in Sukhothai – ancient capital city of Thailand secret Thailand. She looked pleased. until AD1365. And as Khun Thakham said, I was here to “You know why this was built?” she asked. I said I didn’t. unearth secrets. Even after two decades of travelling through “In the 18th Century,” she said, “Thailand – or Siam as it the country, on countless visits, Thailand was still largely then was – was destroyed by the Burmese. Their army tore inscrutable to me. “Thailand,” a friend once told me, “is a down the royal city of Ayutthaya – in those days Ayutthaya mirror,” reflecting visitors’ expectations: of spas and plunge- was the wonder of South-East Asia. The Thai king Thaksin pools-with-a-view, sizzling woks and silks, full-moon parties fled here for his life. Back then it was just a swamp next to and banana pancakes on the beach… And of more tawdry a river, with a small village called Thonburi – right over there.” dreams. But it reveals little of its own inner self, of the magic She pointed towards the river, “on the far bank.” and mystery, the religion and royal history, which are funda“The king brought his most ambitious general with him, mental to its real identity. who took power when Thaksin died and declared himself a Distracted by the mirror of their own expectations and the God. He even took the name Rama and shrouded himself in disarming Thai smile, foreigners – or farangs as they are called old magic. His dynasty, which rules to this day, is called the locally – see exactly what the Thai wish them to see. Few visi- Chakri – it’s a name for a kind of energy. And beginning right tors barely seem to notice the magical symbols that every other here at the City Pillar, from the spiritual ashes of Ayutthaya, Thai person wears around their neck; they barely give a second Rama built a new capital for his dynasty, determined that it thought to the strange rituals that take place hourly in temples, would be the most splendid in Asia.” ⊲
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Hidden Thailand (clockwise from top left) Erected in 1782, Bangkok’s City Pillar is made of acacia wood, encased in solid gold – it also contains the city’s horoscope; the Bangkok to Chiang Mai train on the platform in Chiang Mai railway station, built in 1922; a yaksha (nature spirits who guard and protect holy places) on the Phra Suvarnachedi at Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok; a young Thai kneels in front of the 42m-long reclining Buddha at Wat Lokkaya Sutharam, Ayutthaya. This sculptural style – using with a vertical arm to support the head – dates it to the Mid-Ayutthaya period in the 16th century
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Through the doors of enlightenment The 18th century entrance to Bangkok’s City Pillar, using chofa finials and lotus-bud motifs. Chofas symbolise the head of garuda (the vehicle of Vishnu), while lotuses symbolise Bodhi – the awakening of consciousness
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She came closer to me and whispered, “Bangkok is a nick- There were still signs of living mystery and reverence: locals name for farangs, the city’s real name is [locally abbreviated dressed in white were bowing and chanting before an ancient to] Krungthep. It means ‘the City of Angels and Immortals, Buddha face – wrapped in a tangle of fig-tree roots in the the Magnificent City of the Nine Gems.’ Some people say that ruins of the ancient temple of Wat Mahathat. I watched the sun sink orange over the river, silhouettmagicians placed the body of a baby who died in childbirth, covered in gold leaf under the City pillar, trapping its soul in ing Ayutthaya’s chedis, heralding huge flocks of bats that fluttered through the trees. If Bangkok had been a glorious a spell, to bring prosperity and wealth to Krungthep…” Then the old woman told me about the next building that reclaiming of national spirit, I thought, Ayutthaya’s solemn Rama constructed in his new city. And it too was magical. ruins spoke of the crisis that preceded it; of the reduction of King Rama, she said, cast the most powerful spell of all when Thai identity and culture to rubble. Of loss. Of mourning. he built the Temple of the Emerald Buddha – the power I wondered if this one of the reasons that the Thai were so reticent; perhaps this was why they didn’t trust foreigners amulet of Thailand. with their secrets? “Go and see it, farang,” she said. “It’s still there at the end of this Late that night, it was dark and still on the station platform. A man slept road: The holy Emerald Buddha – filled with great presence and sitting “In Sukhothai, Buddhas on a rough concrete bench. Moths in the heart of Rama’s royal temple, sat serene over pools whirled around the station lamps. At far end of the station, a group of Wat Phra Kaew. But don’t just look of lotus flowers. One the students were silently glued to their at it like you farangs do. Feel it…” was as tall as a London phones, their faces lit by a spectral The City Pillar felt secret. But there were tourists by the bus load white glow from the screens. In the building. I reached small hours, I finally saw the glowing at Wat Phra Kaew. up and touched its The long queue to the Emerald eyes of an approaching train in the Buddha chapel wound past fanged distance. It rattled into the station, hand, which shone temple guardians and winged shattering the quiet of the night in a with gold leaf” screech of brakes. I clambered into my angels that shimmered in the hot sun. Finally I reached the building carriage and my couchette, trying not – glistering with mosaics and dark to wake passengers snoring under light and mysterious inside. I stepped quietly in, determined to blankets and collapsed into sleep. feel and not just see – like the old woman said. Despite the In the buttery early morning light, low sun shafting throng, there was a stillness to the room; a presence. The through the windows, the carriage was a happier place. Buddha sat lambent; a glowing focus of energy, on an ornate Uniformed waiters brought hot trays of eggs and noodles. altar under a gilt umbrella, clothed in an exquisite cape of Backpackers laughed with locals. A couple played a game of filigree gold. I felt that tingle again as I gazed at it, hypno- cards on the lino seats. tised. Then another tourist prodded me in the back. “We all It was still early when we reached Phitsanulok and I was the only foreigner to get off the train. So the guide I’d want to see it,” he said, ushering me on. booked-ahead found me easily, introducing herself as Khun SECRETS IN SUKHOTHAI Thakham and whisked me to a waiting cab for the short ride The next day I began my railway journey in earnest; catch- to Sukhothai. ing a tuk-tuk through the rushing streets of Chinatown Unlike Ayutthaya, Sukhothai was far from sombre. to Hualamphong station in old Bangkok. The concourse Although ancient and jungle covered, it was glorious. was bustling with commuters, backpackers on their way Buddhas, sat serene over pools of lotus flowers. One hidden to Chiang Mai and big groups of laughing, saffron-robed behind a V-shaped arch inside a temple, was as tall as a monks. I bought a ticket for the price of a sandwich back London building. I reached up and touched its hand, which home and sat in front of a smiling Thai couple who shared shone with gold leaf, pressed into its fingers from thousands their spring rolls with me as we clack-clacked out of Bangkok of adoring hands, over centuries. The ancient kiln, where Khun Thakham told me the secret of the celadon vase stand into a rural landscape of rice paddies and farms. We reached Ayutthaya, my next ancient capital, after a was a short stroll from the statue. Back on the train that afternoon, on the way to Chiang couple of slow, meditative hours. Even under the bright sun it felt like a sombre place. Wandering the crumbling brick Mai, after the usual small talk about football and Netflix, ruins, I couldn’t help thinking about the ruin of Thaksin’s I asked Khun Thakham about Thai magic. Did people still city, of the columns of slaves being marched into Burma in believe in the protective power of amulets? 1767, of the temples set alight and the buddhas sawn-up “Of course,” she said smiling and pulling an amulet from inside her shirt. It looked as ancient as the celadon vase and looted for gold. Now children played around the crumbling brick chedis, stand – a Buddha carved into clay sitting under a Bodhi tree. that processed like giant resting bells through avenues of His features were gone, so were the leaves on the tree - worn crumbling brick. Royal courtiers had once walked along down by centuries of fingers. them – when they were shaded, open-sided corridors – bring“It brings you luck?” I asked. “These amulets do more than that,” she replied. “They ing European ambassadors to the king, to bow and ask for access to wealthy Ayutthaya’s silk, spice and ivory trade. save lives.” And she told me about a friend of hers who ⊲
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“The tuk-tuk sped out of Chiang Mai’s empty streets and into the forest. All around us were tall trees, birds twittering. A troop of macaques groomed each other next to the road”
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A train into the past (clockwise from left) Chedis at Wat Phra Sri Sanphet, Ayutthaya, once the city’s most important Buddhist monastery and the model for Wat Phra Kaew in Bangkok; a Buddha sitting in the ‘Earth witness’ mudra (pose) on the side of the temple of the Emerald Buddha, Wat Phra Kaew; The ruins of 17th Century Wat Chaiwatthanaram, built by King Prasat Thong as a memorial to his mother. Chedis built in this style – similar to the Khmer temples of Angkor Wat – are called prangs; a Buddha statue surrounded by the roots of a strangler fig tree at 14th century Wat Mahathat, Ayutthaya; a Thai traveller at the railway station in Ayutthaya
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Seated in Sukhothai (clockwise from above) A sitting Buddha in front of a lotus-flower pond at the 14th-century Wat Mahathat, Sukhothai, whose main temple represents the mythical Mount Meru – built by the gods to enshrine the relics of the Buddha; visitors can see the serene expression of the 800-year-old Buddha at Wat Si Chum, Sukhothai, from a distance away. Up close it towers above you; the doorway to Wat Chedi Luang’s prayer hall, Chiang Mai, is straddled by naga serpents – symbols of water and of the sacred magical energy which infuses living things; Buddhist monks receiving alms – a daily ritual played out just after dawn, for millennia
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walked away from a car crash which crushed her vehicle – without a bruise or a scratch. “She wore an amulet just like this one,” said Khun Thakham, her smiley face now serious and earnest.
ONE LAST BIT OF MAGIC...
Sukhothai had seemed almost tourist-free but Chiang Mai, Thailand’s second city and the final stop on my tour of its ancient capitals, was rushing with traffic and visitors. Over the following few days, we visited Doi Suthep – a gold-covered temple on a forest-swathed hill – and Wat Phra That Doi Suthep, one of the city’s holiest shrines, built around the ruins of a giant stone chedi, with elephants at each corner. In the 15th Century, Khun Thakham explained to me, the Emerald Buddha was kept here in a niche in the great stupa, which rose over 50 metres, dominating the city skyline. One night it dramatically collapsed, but the Buddha survived completely unscathed. On my final morning Khun Thakham said she had a treat for me – another secret to share. She picked me up before dawn and we sped through Chiang Mai’s empty streets, out of the city and into the forest surrounds. The tuk-tuk drove up a dirt track, just as the sun began to rise. All around us were tall rainforest trees, thousands of birds twittering. A troop of macaques groomed each other next to the road.
“I felt alive, renewed. The colours seemed richer – the orange of the monks’ robes, the greens of the leaves all around, the brilliant blues of butterflies” Then the forest cleared and I saw a temple and monks outside. They were holding bowls for the morning almswalk – a tradition as old as Thailand itself, according to Khun Thakham. She handed me some beetroot-red mangosteens that I placed inside one of the monk’s bowls. Then the monks led us to the main temple. “Now we meditate,” said Khun Thakham. “Concentrate on the breath,” she told me quietly as we all sat down, cross-legged, “draw it in through the nose very slow, fill the belly, the lungs, the top of the lungs, then out, the same way... notice the rhythm of your breath only, let thoughts evaporate away.” And I did so, and when I opened my eyes after what might have been an hour or a few minutes, I felt alive, renewed. The colours seemed richer – the orange of the monks’ robes, the greens of the leaves all around, the brilliant blues of butterflies. A novice handed me water, looking into my eyes with warmth and genuine friendliness. The air itself seemed filled with vibrant energy. Khun Thakham smiled, laughed. “This is the greatest ancient magic of Thailand,” she said, holding my hand. “Vipassana – the meditation of noticing. It’s my gift to you – a secret from ancient Thailand that you can take with you wherever you are in the world. A secret ⊲ that you will never forget.”
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Capital: Bangkok Population: 69,630,000 Languages: Thai & tribal languages Time: GMT +7 International dialling code: +66 Visas: Not required for UK & Irish nationals Money: Baht - currently £1 to 45 Baht. ATMs are found throughout the country and credit cards widely accepted.
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Getting there
Thai Airways (0844 561 0911, thaiairways.co.uk) flies to Bangkok and cities throughout Thailand from £570 return, leaving from London Heathrow and taking around 11.5 hours.
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When to go
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November-March: The driest months with Dec-Mar being the sunniest and coolest, with minimum temperatures in the low 20s in Bangkok (°C) and mid-teens in Chiang Mai. November sees fewer tourists and the cheapest air fares. April: The hottest month – with temperatures peaking in the mid-30s in Bangkok and the high 30s in Chiang Mai. Thailand celebrates the Songkran water festival – their biggest annual party – between 13-15 April 2022, when everyone is a target for a soaking. May-October: The monsoon bursts across Central and Northern Thailand, tailing off in ⊲ mid-October.
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THAILAND HIGHLIGHTS
1 Bangkok
Chill out in Chiang Mai The Anantara hotel on the banks of the Mae Ping River and is a stroll from the night market; (bottom) Spicy Khao Soi
Accommodation
Thailand has a good choice in all categories from plush boutique to boho backpacker, especially in Bangkok and Chiang Mai. Look online for deals. The older four- and five-star hotels around Sukhumvit Road like The Rembrandt (from £30, rembrandtbkk. com) are often competitive with the backpacker areas around Khao San Road, although far more comfortable and better situated. Accommodation is simpler around Ayutthaya and Sukhothai. Chiang Mai has some beautiful riverside hotels so consider a splurge: The Anantara (from £103; chiang-mai.anantara. com) sits right over the water and has one of the best spas in the country.
Health & safety
For the latest on entry requirements, including COVID-19, and the latest advisories visit the FCDO site (www.gov.uk). There has been some terrorist activity over
the last few years – mostly in the country’s far south. Other parts of the country are safe to visit. For recommended booster info, visit your local travel health centre or fitfortravel.nhs.uk.
Getting around
The railway is run by the State Railway of Thailand (mot.go.th). Timetables online in English. First class fares between Bangkok and Chiang Mai cost £33. Booking can be made in advance at railway stations and through agencies in the UK, Bangkok or Chiang Mai. For internal flights, try Thai Airways (thaiairways.co.uk).
Cost of travel
Thailand can cost as little as £15 a day staying in cheap guest houses and eating in street markets. Staying in air-conditioned hotels and eating in better restaurants will cost you between £30 and £60 a day. Luxury is available from £130 a day; a bottle of beer will set you back B90 (£2.00), a cup of instant coffee B15 (35p) and a bottle of water B15 (35p).
Food & drink
Thai cuisine fuses Indian spiciness with Chinese freshness and garnishes it with spices, herbs and fruits which are all Thailand’s own. Food is often stir-fried – with raw ingredients thrown into a flaming wok with chilli, banana flower, lemon grass, galangal and kaffir lime leaves and garnished with nam pla fish sauce. For something less familiar than Pad Tai or green curry, try the spicy salads such as som tam – made with green papaya, glass noodles, prawns and lime juice or a Lan Na dish like kaow soi kai (egg noodle in chicken curry).
South-East Asia’s most exciting metropolis. Be sure to visit Wat Phra Kaew, Wat Pho (which has a beautiful reclining Buddha) and take in the sunset on the pagoda-topped Golden Mount or on a rooftop bar for skyscraper views straight out of a sci-fi-movie – Maha Nakhon is tallest; mahanakhonbangkokskybar. com
2 Ayutthaya
UNESCO World Heritage-listed ruined city of stupas, temples and crumbling palaces next to the Chao Phraya river.
3 Sukhothai
Another UNESCOlisted site – with ruined temples, giant buddhas and intricately-carved facades set in bird-filled forest.
4 Chiang Mai
The old capital of the northern Lan Na kingdom, which merged with Siam to create modern Thailand. Visit the forest temple at Wat Umong for morning meditation and the ancient stupa at Wat Chedi Luang.
Mai mountains 5 Chiang
Great trekking to hill tribe villages and to Thailand’s highest peak at Doi Inthanon – set in a rainforest-shrouded national park.
WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS Thailand: Wanderlust Travel Guide – wanderlust.co.uk/ destinations/thailand/ 7 Must-Sees In Sukhothai, Thailand – youtube.com/ watch?v=Ur9TpYC0GxE ‘The Sound of Thai Traditional’ Playlist – spotify.com
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MEXICO
Towering volcano
Mount Teide stands within Teide National Park and is a must-see place to visit
TENERIFE
EXPLORE THE NUMBERS
26
The number of species of cetaceans found off the coast. These include bottle-nose dolphin, pilot whale, orca, baleen whale and blue whale.
Go now to fix fix the lockdown blues THE DESTINATION:
TENERIFE
3,718
The height of Teide in metres – the highest volcano in Spain. HIKING
WALK YOUR WAY AROUND THE ISLAND
Getting there
Tenerife has two airports – one in the north and one in the south, so decide where you’re staying before booking your flights. British Airways flies to both from London Heathrow, from £103 return. Flight time is around four and a half hours. ba.com
No bones about it
A woman dressed up as La Calavera Catrina, an iconic symbol of Día de los Muertos created in the early 1900s by artist José Guadalupe Posada
Walking, whales and waterfront cafes. With cheerful temperatures and crowd-dodging adventures, Rosie Fitzgerald says that Tenerife is the perfect place to beat the lockdown blues…
ÒW “W
ow, was the whole of England on your plane?” said the airport worker at Tenerife South Airport. I laughed from under my mask. I was standing in a long queue of socially distanced, last-minute travellers, waiting to get my temperature checked, just days after the Canary Islands were added to the UK’s travel corridor. On the other side of the airport, I was greeted by blue skies and swaying palm trees. I smiled. Where better to blow away those
Mexico’s Day of the Dead captured the world’s attention with its skulls and colours, but behind the facepaint is a touching celebration that embraces everything that’s good about life – and death WORDS NICK BOULOS
lockdown blues than in Tenerife, an island popular for its year-round balmy temperatures? Although it may be the warm weather, sand and sea that attracts so many travellers, there’s much more to do here than lying on a sun lounger. Despite staying in lively hotspot Costa Adeje, just a 45-minute walk lifted me up in the mountains. Surrounded by lunar landscapes, with the sun sparkling off off the blue waters below, there wasn’t a person or hotel in sight. With a reputed 900km of hiking trails embossing the volcanic
island, it’s easy to get off off the beaten track here. Head inland to wind up the iconic Teide – the tallest volcano in Spain. Or head to Parque Rural de Anaga to stand at the most northerly point of the island, admire the desert-like flora flora and work your way downhill to a white-washed village where you’ll have the black-sand beach at the bottom almost to yourself. More adventures await off off land. Brave the waves whipped up on the south-west coast by taking a surfing surfing lesson, or venture further on a whale-watching tour,
where sightings of pilot whales are pretty much guaranteed. All that Atlantic has other pluses too. At the waterfront taverns you can enjoy fresh local favourites vieja (parrotfish) (parrotfish) or sardines. Or you can try the traditional rabbit stew, with a side of papas arrugadas – boiled spuds served with a mojo rojo sauce, whose spices often reflect reflect the Canaries’ proximity to Africa. With all that walking, water and whales, there’s a very good reason why the flights flights should be full when they start up again. But Tenerife is certainly worth queuing up for.
The best way to really explore Tenerife’s verdant forests, volcanic slopes, coastal views and historic towns is on foot. The good news is that walkers are well-catered for, with plenty of signposted trails. If you’re looking to eye-up the coast, then stretch your legs in Teno Rural Park in the north-west of the island. At over 1,300m, offering up sea views in almost every direction you look. Teno is also popular because of its greenery. You’ll find yourself in thick laurel and giant heather forests. Look out for rare species such as the osprey and the giant Teno lizard. For a deeper understanding of Tenerife’s explosive past, go on a guided hike up Pico Viejo, the island’s second-highest volcano. Your guides will show you the black lava that scars the landscape, left over from an eruption in 1798. If there are blue skies, you’ll also be able to see some of the smaller islands in the Canaries, including La Palma and La Gomera.
2,034
The size of Tenerife in square kilometres – the largest of all the Canaries.
18 million
Units shifted of U2’s Achtung Baby – many of the images on the album’s cover were shot at the Carnival of Santa Cruz.
IF YOU ONLY DO THREE THINGS
Must-try outdoor activities
AWL; Alamy; Shutterstock
THE TRUE SPIRIT OF
Go Now
MEXICO
WHALEWATCHING
STARGAZING
PARAGLIDING
Head out on one of the many boats departing from the southwest of the island. Pilot whales can be seen year-round. Visit between
With some of the clearest skies in Europe, head to Teide National Park with a local guide to observe the stars. While the night sky glitters year-round, visit in August to witness the shooting meteor showers of the Perseids.
You may not think it’s your thing, but watching those kites sailing high up and gently making their way to the coast before touching down on the sand is strangely tempting. If you’re going to try this anywhere, Tenerife makes for an exciting first time.
November and February and you might spot migrating humpbacks, fin whales and even blue whales.
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YELLOWSTONE NP, US
HOT SPRINGS
ETERNAL From herds of bison to the elusive wolf, steaming geysers to diamond dust, Yellowstone National Park is a year-round destination, but in winter the few visitors get this wildlife-rich wonderland all to themselves WORDS MARTIN SYMINGTON
200+
destinations to be featured in 2021
Mr T Ra veller 5 Wan derlust Close Journe yman ’s Way Wande ring-by -Sea West Riding IMOF OUT
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
TUOLUMNE COUNTY Uncrowded adventures in Yosemite and beyond Words Anita Isalska
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INTO HISTORY IN GOLD 1 STEP COUNTRY’S BOOM TOWNS
From hissing steam engines to ornate 19th-century shopfronts, Tuolumne’s Gold Country has preserved the atmosphere of California’s old prospecting days. The land had long been inhabited by the Miwok and Yokut peoples when a chance sighting of gold forever changed its fate. In 1848, word spread that a carpenter toiling in the Sierra foothills had found gold flakes. Fortune-seekers rushed to the Sierra, and their hastily built cabins quickly grew into sizeable towns. Many of them emptied after the Gold Rush but others, like Jamestown, Sonora and Columbia, endured long after the last miner laid down their shovel. Driving into Gold Country from San Francisco, the first major boom town after
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Yosemite Junction is Jamestown. It’s a jewellery box of Gold Rush architecture: latticed shopfronts, Victorian-style balconies, and arcades offering shade from the burning California sun. Between restaurants and old-timey inns are stations where children can try their hand at gold panning. South-east of Jamestown is Railtown 1897 State Historic Park, where you can board steam or diesel locomotives for a huffing, clanking, 45-minute voyage through the Sierra foothills. Look out for Sierra No. 3, which starred as a time-travelling locomotive in Back to the Future Part III, and has featured in over 100 other films. Further south unfurl vineyards with distinctive Italian flair. Gianelli Vineyards cultivate Italian varietals such as Vermentino and Primitivo, which you can sample at the bar or overlooking views of the Sierra. Around 15 minutes’ drive north of Jamestown is Columbia State Historic Park. At the height of
WHERE TO STAY
JAMESTOWN HOTEL Balconied rooms at this historic hotel overlook Jamestown’s lively Main Street. thejamestownhotel.com SONORA INN Rooms with antique stylings pile on the charm at this 1896 hotel in downtown Sonora. thesonorainn.com YOSEMITE PINES RV RESORT Stay in a tent, cabin or even a Conestoga wagon at this family-friendly resort southeast of Groveland. yosemitepinesrv.com
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n the midst of the Sierra Nevada, Tuolumne County is a mosaic of lakes, forests and Gold Rush towns. Just two-and-a-half hours’ drive east from the San Francisco Bay Area, this is outdoorsy California as the locals experience it. More than half of Yosemite National Park is here, but most tourists flock to photo-ops further south – leaving Tuolumne blissfully free from the crowds. Highway 120 carves a sinuous route through these lesserexplored wilds, but don’t rush to Yosemite before feeling the flush of gold fever, and hiking, biking or horse-riding the High Sierra. Here are three ways to explore…
the Gold Rush, Columbia (then known as ‘the gem of the southern mines’) grew from a straggling cluster of tents into a town of tens of thousands. Its 1850s ambience is proudly preserved – complete with costumed guides, horse-pulled stagecoach and the Matelot Gulch Mining Company, where you can pan for elusive glints of gold. More historic buildings lie six-and-a-half kilometres south-east in Sonora, along with thirst-quenching detours. At the sustainably managed Indigeny Reserve, shady groves of apple trees produce refreshing ciders and apple brandies. South of Highway 108, apples are stuffed into homemade pies and buttery bubble bread at Cover’s Apple Ranch. Beyond boom-town history and local produce, there’s a deeper way to connect with Gold Country: in the great outdoors. In Jamestown, the tough inclines of the four kilometre Table Mountain Loop Trail are rewarded by views of New Melones Lake and across the plateau, which is streaked with poppies in summer. From Sonora, the Dragoon Gulch Trail, made up of multiple routes, winds for a combined five kilometres along ridges and creeks, ever shaded by oaks. Further east near Tuolumne town, the 17km West Side Trail is a memorable foray into mining history: ruts from a former railtrack protrude from the dusty ground. But the river and forest dominate the view; nature has long ago reclaimed the land.
Golden highlights (clockwise from this) Pinecrest Lake covers 300 square metres; horse-riding with a guide at Kennedy Meadows; the city of Sonora is named after the miners from Sonora Mexico who settled here in 1848; panning for gold in Jamestown; a stagecoach in Columbia State Historic Park; ride a streamtrain at Railtown 1897 State Historic Park
SERENE NATURE 2 EMBRACE IN THE HIGH SIERRA
WHERE TO STAY
LAZY Z RESORT Cosy cabins and cottages are tucked away off Middle Camp Road, 16km east of Sonora. lazyzresort.com PINECREST CHALET Wood-beamed cabins with easy access to Pinecrest Lake and Dodge Ridge. pinecrestchalet.com KENNEDY MEADOWS RESORT Sleep in a rustic cabin in the Emigrant Wilderness area near Lake Kennedy. kennedymeadows.com
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In search of a hiking paradise, but with a fraction of Yosemite’s footfall? East of Gold Country, the land buckles into toothy peaks and shapely valleys. This is the High Sierra, and its florid meadows and pine-fringed lakes are easy to reach via Highway 108. In the late 19th and early 20th centuries, settlers built dams to create lakes, nourishing the High Sierra’s growing mining communities. Today, the lakes are oases for swimming, kayaking and shoreside picnics. Head to Donnell Reservoir; it’s enclosed by sheer granite walls, with paved trails leading to expansive canyon views, and its emerald waters teem with brown trout. Another beauty spot ideal for dangling a fishing rod lies a 20 minutes’ drive south at Pinecrest Lake. Families splash around in its crystalline shallows and pitch tents in the campground, where pine needles blanket the soft earth. Pathways such as the two-and-a-half kilometre Trail of the Gargoyles access gnomelike rock formations sculpted by foregone volcanoes. Close by is Dodge Ridge, a winter
favourite for families who zip down its 67 ski runs and don snowshoes to walk pillowy drifts. For solitude-seekers, Pinecrest is only a gateway. East of the lake spreads the Emigrant Wilderness area, part of Stanislaus National Forest. This landscape of deep ridges and granite domes is pure drama, topping out at Leavitt Peak (3,527m). The plains are studded with boulders and streaked with manzanita shrubs. Shaggy glades of white fir are criss-crossed by hundreds of kilometres of streams – at their splashiest in springtime, when they’re turbo-charged by melting snow. If you’re a hiker, meanwhile, you can lace up your boots for a stiff ascent along the Relief Reservoir Trail (11.5km) or watch the sun set from a tent overlooking Chewing Gum Lake. Gravel and paved mountain biking trails also
slice through the Stanislaus National Forest, from gentle inclines to thigh-burning ascents. Just watch out for the black bears that are occasionally spotted lumbering between stands of old-growth pine. In these untamed surroundings, horseback feels like a suitably Wild West mode of transport. Kennedy Meadows offers full-day horseback excursions to Kennedy Lake, a tranquil beauty spot in the Emigrant Wilderness. Its cowboyhatted operators can also lead gentler, hourlong horse-riding trips through meadows, always with a mountainous backdrop. The most invigorating way to experience the High Sierra is through total immersion in nature. Dozens of campgrounds are scattered around Stanislaus National Forest, while comfier log chalets also allow you to fling open your door to pine-furred wilds. By staying overnight, you’ll truly understand the Sierras’ nickname, ‘the Range of Light’, bestowed by the naturalist John Muir. Bare granite peaks glow bronze with the sunset, and are awash in peachy light at daybreak. The changing light will make you feel changed, too.
For more information, visit: visittuolumne.com
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
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Yosemite National Park dissolves all sense of time and scale. Mountains loom as high as 3,997m, granite domes date back 100 million years, and the giant sequoias are among the largest trees on earth. It should be easy to find blissful isolation in this 3,028 sq km tapestry of meadows and mirror lakes: despite more than 120 walking trails threading across the park, the overwhelming majority of travellers to Yosemite follow the same itineraries. To travel with a lighter footprint on uncrowded trails, take a hike on the northern side in Tuolumne. More than half of Yosemite National Park falls within Tuolumne County. This side of the park is also the easiest to reach from the San Francisco Bay Area: just three hours along Highway 120 to Big Oak Flat. This northwestern entrance to Yosemite is a gateway to landscapes most travellers never see. From Big Oak Flat, Highway 120 snakes through sugar pines towards Tuolumne Grove, a forest of two-dozen giant sequoias. Take the four kilometre trail to these stately giants, their colossal trunks blackened by bygone forest
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Hit the trails (clockwise from this) Yosemite is catnip for mountain bikers; visit Wapama Falls in Hetch Hetchy in spring when the falls are at their fullest; Evergreen Lodge at Yosemite
fires. Most visitors head straight to Mariposa Grove on the other side of the park; but in Tuolumne, there’s space to breathe. The air is fresh, rays of sunshine pierce the canopy, and only birdsong interrupts your thoughts. Winter brings a different kind of magic, when snow cushions the trail. Strap on snowshoes and crunch softly along the forest floor. Further east along Highway 120, trailheads from Tenaya Lake point the way to more idyllic scenes. The Murphy Creek Trail to
Polly Dome Lake is a tranquil 10.3km trek that takes you through shady woods, past the shores of Tenaya Lake and offers views of Polly Dome, Mount Hoffmann and Tuolumne Peak. Continuing east, you’ll reach Tuolumne Meadows. It’s at its loveliest in spring, when groundwater wells up to nourish fields of fluffy ricegrass and wildflowers such as buttercups. From here, take a two-hour hike to Gaylor Lakes for sweeping views of Dana Meadows and the High Sierra’s primeval valleys. To explore the least-visited section of the park, enter Yosemite even further north at Mather. From here you’ll reach the 1,188mhigh Hetch Hetchy, where towering conical peaks are reflected in a pristine reservoir. This ancient, glacier-carved valley was flooded by the O’Shaughnessy Dam in 1923. Hetch Hetchy enjoys one of the longest hiking seasons and some of the mildest temperatures in Yosemite. Spring snowmelt creates thunderous cascades along the almost nine kilometre Wapama Falls and 21km Rancheria Falls trails. Waterfalls dwindle in glorious midsummer, autumn brings an amber blush to the oak forests, while winter dusts the granite monoliths with snow. It’s a year-round outdoor playground, and you’ll barely share it with another soul.
WHERE TO STAY
RUSH CREEK LODGE Soothe hike-weary muscles in the Yosemiteinspired spa of this sleek hotel, around 30 minutes’ drive from Hetch Hetchy. rushcreeklodge.com UNDER CANVAS YOSEMITE Snooze beneath the stars in safari-style tents at this soon-to-open glamping location. undercanvas.com EVERGREEN LODGE AT YOSEMITE All styles of cabins across forested grounds in Mather, close to Yosemite’s western edge. evergreenlodge.com
Menka Belgal; OARS; Damian Riley
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Back to nature (clockwise from this) The Dragoon Gulch Trail winds through the Mother Lode’s oak woodlands; white water rafting on the Tuolumne River; Tuolumne Meadows is situated 2,650m above sea level
MAKE IT HAPPEN HOW TO GET THERE
British Airways runs direct flights from London Heathrow to San Francisco that take 10.5 hours. Once you land, hire a car from the airport for the ultimate freedom and flexibility. Or take the Amtrak San Joaquins train from San Francisco, changing at Emeryville to reach Merced station (less than four hours). Between May and September, the YARTS 120 bus route takes you direct from Merced to Yosemite.
WHEN TO GO
Tuolumne County offers year-round adventure. Visit the High Sierra in spring to see the foothills alive with green grass and wildflowers, or go between late November and April to make the most of the snow. Comfortable temperatures make spring and autumn a great time to visit the cities in Gold Country. To see Yosemite in full bloom and for snowfree hiking, visit in June. Alternatively, go during the winter for downhill and cross-country skiing, along with many other winter sports. Spring is an exciting time to visit Yosemite, when the melting snow means the park’s many waterfalls and creeks are at their fullest, making for dramatic,
rushing flows. Be aware that the Hetch Hetchy Entrance Station is often closed due to snow from November to June.
HIT THE ROAD WITH BA HOLIDAYS
On a Fly-drive California trip with BA Holidays, you can land at San Francisco International Airport, pick up your car and be out on the road in no time. Spend your first few nights exploring the city by the bay, taking time to walk in the Golden Gate Park. Next, head north-west over the Golden Gate Bridge to Lake Tahoe to take in its 115km shoreline. Afterwards, continue your drive to Tuolumne County to explore the gold rush history of Jamestown and the hiking trails of the High Sierra, before finishing up in the dramatic landscapes of Yosemite National Park. San Francisco flights and 7 days car hire from £717pp. Book at: britishairways.com
Menka Belgal; OARS; Damian Riley
TACKLE THE TRAILS WITH EXODUS
Embark on one of the finest hikes in North America, the John Muir Trail, with Exodus Travels. During the 22-day hike you’ll be joined by an expert guide and will walk over 330km. You will start with a climb of 4,422mhigh Mount Whitney before following the spine of California’s High Sierra, passing three national parks, alpine peaks, beautiful meadows and forested river valleys along the way. Eventually, 22 days later, you will arrive
For more information, visit: visittuolumne.com
at Tuolumne Meadows with the pristine river running through flower-filled fields, backed by undulating peaks making for a fine reward for your efforts. This 23-day trip includes accommodation, all meals, transport, listed activities and tour leaders from £2,879pp. Flights not included. Book at: exodus.co.uk
EXPLORE YOSEMITE WITH BON VOYAGE On Bon Voyage’s 12-day Water, Wine & Wilderness tour you will travel from San Francisco into Sonoma County before heading into Yosemite National Park. As well as the famous Tioga Pass, you will enjoy sights such as Tuolumne Meadows and Hetch Hetchy, where imperious peaks loom over the reservoir. An expert guide will be on hand to show you around and ensure you don’t miss a thing. This 12-night trip includes return flights, hotels, listed activities and a tour of Yosemite National Park with a local guide. From £2,215pp. Book at: bon-voyage.co.uk
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15 EPIC WALKING TRAILS
Looking for a travel challenge that reveals an alternative side of a destination? Whatever your ability, these diverse treks will show you rare wildlife, unique cultures and immense scenery worthy of your perspiration Words Sarah Baxter
APPALACHIAN TRAIL, IRELAND 1 INTERNATIONAL
Best for… An alternative classic Start/end: Bunglas (Donegal)/Larne (Antrim) Distance: 485km; 25 days Difficulty: Moderate/Strenuous
▲ Not content with spanning thousands of kilometres of the USA, the Appalachian Trail has spread across borders, linking what was once – 175 million years ago – one single mountain range rippling across super-continent Pangea. The Ulster chapter launched in 2011; investment in 2021 has seen the trail improved, plus new signage and trail art installed. The route is diverse, starting on the Atlantic coast by the sea-smacked peak of Slieve League (in the Republic of Ireland) before heading into the Blue Stack Mountains, past peaceful Lough Eske and Killeter Forest, via the Sperrins (Glenelly Valley is a highlight), along the UNESCO-listed rocks and bays of the Causeway Coast and through the Glens of Antrim, finishing by the Irish Sea at Larne. Info: walkni.com/iat Or try… Saint Patrick’s Way, Ireland’s alternative to the Camino de Santiago. The 132km route links Armagh, where the saint founded his first church, to Downpatrick, his final resting place. ⊲
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CORSICA 2 GR20,
Best for… A Med mountain challenge Start/end: Calenzana/Conca Distance: 180km; 10-14 days Difficulty: Strenuous
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WAY, SCOTLAND 3 HEBRIDEAN
Best for… Island-hopping on foot Start/end: Vatersay/Stornoway Distance: 247km; 8-13 days Difficulty: Easy/Moderate
▲ Why walk across one island when you can tick off ten? The Hebridean Way traverses the Outer Hebrides archipelago, linking (south to north) the remote outposts of Vatersay, Barra, Eriskay, South Uist, Benbecula, Grimsay, North Uist, Berneray, Harris and Lewis. En route lies a bit if everything. There’s wild moorland, craggy hills,
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blinding-white beaches and flowerspeckled machair grassland. There are Bronze Age remains, a Bonnie Prince Charlie trail and the Neolithic stone circle of Calanais. And there are corncrakes, white-tailed eagles, otters and red deer. Six causeways and two ferries help you hop along, while the slow walking pace allows for a proper immersion in the islands’ distinctive Gaelic culture. Info: visitouterhebrides.co.uk/ hebrideanway Or try… The Channel Islands Way, around 185km of Gallic-inflected walking, circumnavigating Jersey, Guernsey, Alderney, Sark and Herm (plus a few ferry trips too).
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Glance at a topographical map of the ‘Ile de Beauté’ and it’s no surprise that the GR20 has a reputation as one of Europe’s toughest hikes. This Grande Randonnée cuts a north-west-tosouth-east diagonal along Corsica’s relentlessly mountainous spine, clocking up around 19,000m of ascent and descent via steep slopes of scree and boulders – terrain usually reserved for rock climbers or, back in the 18th-century, Corsican guerrillas fighting for independence. But what ups and downs they are, revealing an astonishing world of icy, jagged peaks, dipping valleys, glacial lakes, shepherds’ huts, pine forests and aromatic maquis. Accommodation is in basic refuges – sleeping in close confines with your fellow walkers is part of the challenge. Info: le-gr20.fr/en Or try… The 674km French section of the GR5, which follows the Alps from Lake Geneva to the Mediterranean; the whole route takes around five weeks.
OLLE TRAIL, SOUTH KOREA 4 JEJU
Best for… Dipping in and out Start/end: Jeju Island Distance: 425km; 26 days Difficulty: Easy/Moderate
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sections, collecting stamps in an official trail passport; good choices include Olle 6, for condensed Jeju highlights, and Olle 10, which passes several oreum. Complete all 26 sections and you enter the thru-hiker Hall of Fame. Info: jejuolle.org Or try… Hong Kong’s Lantau Trail (70km) loops across the rugged isle in 12 stages; try sections two and three, which include the highlights of Sunset ⊲ and Lantau Peaks.
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The leftovers of an underwater volcanic eruption, Jeju Island lies south of the Korean peninsula and is a land apart – it’s the country’s only self-governing
province and has a distinctive culture. The Jeju Olle Trail (olle meaning alleyway) comprises 26 connected routes of between 10km and 20km. These run around the edge of the island and showcase its tropical beaches, fishing villages, thatched houses, curious hareubang (‘grandfather’ statues) and numerous oreum (volcanic cones), as well as offering good views to 1,950m Hallasan, South Korea’s highest peak. Many people walk it in
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ELBOW LOOP, CANADA 5 BIG
Best for… Offbeat Alberta Start/end: Forgetmenot Pond Distance: 42km; 3-4 days Difficulty: Moderate
▲ Ah, Alberta. Immediately Banff and Jasper national parks spring to mind – both jaw-dropping hiking terrain. But for scenery that’s just as impressive, but with just a fraction of the crowds, look to Kananaskis Country instead. Just west of Calgary, in the foothills of the Rockies, K Country has high peaks, sharp ridges, dazzling-blue lakes, forests of aspen, pine and spruce, plentiful moose and a lot of hiking trails. The Big Elbow Loop is a good choice for back-country beginners. It’s easy to follow, affords fine mountain views and is served by basic-but-beautiful riverside campsites (complete with fire pits, pit toilets and bear lockers). There are options to add on other trails too: a scramble up Mount Romulus, hike to Upper Tombstone Lake or the nearby 8km Upper Kananaskis-Rawson Lake Trail. Info: albertaparks.ca Or try… The tougher 32km Tamarack Trail, in Alberta’s Waterton Lakes National Park, a dramatic hike along the Continental Divide – one for more experienced backpackers. ⊲
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Best for… Literary leg-stretching Start/end: Ravenna/Florence Distance: 395km; 20 days Difficulty: Moderate
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2021 marks 700 years since the death of the poet Dante Alighieri, making it apposite timing for a walk along the Vie di Dante. This new trail strides across Emilia-Romagna and Tuscany, linking Dante’s tomb in the mosaicfilled city of Ravenna to his birthplace in Florence (home to the Dante House Museum), retracing the probable route
that the author took following his exile from Florence in the 14th century. Along the way lie the wild Apennine Mountains, welcoming agriturismos, hilltop villages and stops linked to the man himself, including Pontassieve (where Dante’s said to have met Beatrice), Acquacheta waterfall (mentioned in Canto XVI of Inferno) and Romena Castle (where he once stayed). Info: viedidante.it/en Or try… The Coleridge Way, an 80km amble across Somerset and Devon in the wake of the Romantic poet, from Nether Stowey (where he once lived) to Lynmouth.
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Best for… Year-round island adventures Start/end: Órzola (Lanzarote)/Orchilla (El Hierro) Distance: 560km; 5 weeks Difficulty: Moderate
One trail, seven islands: the GR131 extends across all of the sub-tropical Canaries, making it possible (with a few ferries or flights) to cross Lanzarote, Fuerteventura, Gran Canaria, Tenerife, La Gomera, La Palma and El Hierro in one go. Each has a distinctive character. The 37km of GR131 crossing La Gomera – the ‘walkers’ island’ – takes in rock towers, ravines and misty laurisilva cloud forest. Lush, steep La Palma claims 66km, which ascends above the wild Caldera de Taburiente to 2,426m Roque de los Muchachos before following the Ruta de los Volcanes to the island’s southern tip. The 42km stretch across El Hierro is full of drama, tracing the island’s wild spine before descending to the remote volcanic far west. Info: hellocanaryislands.com Or try… Madeira – this southerly Portuguese island has a perpetually mild climate, dramatic dips and ridges, and over 2,000km of levadas (irrigation channels) to walk along.
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COASTAL WALK, AUSTRALIA 8 YURAYGIR
Best for… Rare wildlife, wild shores Start/end: Angourie/Red Rock Distance: 65km; 4-5 days Difficulty: Easy/Moderate
▲ Located 480km north of Sydney, Yuraygir National Park encompasses the longest stretch of undeveloped
coast in New South Wales. It’s the traditional land of the Gumbaynggirr and Yaegl nations – many areas remain rich in cultural significance – and homeland, too, to an impressive natural diversity and abundance. As you follow the wave-slapped shoreside trail – scrambling along cliffs, wading through creeks, passing littoral rainforest, swimming in the sea and camping out on the sand –
you may encounter rarities such as squirrel gliders, eastern grass owls or endangered coastal emus; between June and October, migrating whales might be spotted offshore. Info: nationalparks.nsw.gov.au Or try… The 104km Great Ocean Walk, a meander from Apollo Bay to the Twelve Apostles, tracing Victoria’s most iconic stretch of coast; look out for koalas, ⊲ whales, seals and little penguins.
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DE CAVALLS, MENORCA 9 CAMÍ
Best for… Balearic heat and history Start/end: Maó Distance: 185km; 20 days Difficulty: Easy
▲ Created in the 14th century so that knights on horseback could patrol Menorca’s shores, the Camí de Cavalls (aka the GR223) has, in the 20th century, been repurposed as a well-waymarked trail, accessible to mountain bikers, horse-riders and hikers. It’s divided into 20 gentle sections (between 5km and 13km), designed so that, in a day, you could walk a stage out and back, with time for exploring, sun-lolling and swimming too. Maó, the capital, makes a good start-point. Walk anti-clockwise from the old harbour, looking out for secret coves, ancient burial chambers, Franco-era bunkers, Spanish talayots (watchtowers), holm oak forests and a bevy of birds – the whole island is a UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, and some 220 species have been recorded here. Info: camidecavalls.com Or try… Mallorca’s 140km GR221 – or ‘Dry Stone Wall Route’ – which follows old cobbled paths and traditional walls to traverse the Tramuntana Mountains. ⊲
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CREST TRAIL, USA 10 PACIFIC ART
Best for… An epic – in miniature Start/end: Campo, California/Manning Park, British Columbia Distance: 4,270km; 4-6 months Difficulty: Strenuous
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The PCT is a hiking colossus, tracing the Cascade and Sierra Nevada mountains the full height of the USA, from its Mexican to Canadian borders. It’s reckoned around 800 people attempt it each year; about 60% finish. If you have the time, go ahead. If not, consider a smaller portion, like the 110km section from Tuolumne Meadows – the largest sub-alpine meadow in the Sierra Nevada – to Sonora Pass, via the remoter reaches of Yosemite Valley. Here, glaciers have gouged the great lumps of granite into cathedral-like domes and peaks, interlaced by rivers, lakes and cascades. Wilderness permits are required for multi-day hikes; the 19km out-and-back day hike from Tuolumne Meadows to Glen Aulin Camp is a sublime appetiser. Info: pcta.org; visittuolumne.com Or try… Part of the 3,500km Appalachian Trail – aficionados love the tough but dramatic 140km section along New Hampshire’s Presidential Range.
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TRAIL, SOUTH AFRICA 11 AMATOLA
Best for… Middle-earth escapades Start/end: Maden Dam/Hogsback Distance: 100km; 6 days Difficulty: Moderate/Strenuous
▲ Did the Eastern Cape’s Amatola range really inspire Tolkien? Some say the author’s nanny was from the village of
Hogsback, and regaled a young JRR with magical tales of her home… There’s certainly something of the Middleearth about the landscape here, with its moss-draped Ent-like woodlands, flower-flecked meadows, giant worm hills, indigenous pirie forests, gushing waterfalls, cinematic mountain views and Xhosa legends. The trail itself, which runs from missionary-founded King William’s Town
to mountain-tucked Hogsback is tough, though a series of basic-but-comfy huts (with beds, bathrooms and communal braai barbeques) help ease the strain. There are plenty of places to cool off with wild swims en route too. Info: amatolatrails.co.za Or try… Spain’s new Camino del Anillo (‘the Ring Road’), a 120km trail through the northern Sierra de Guadarrama, ⊲ inspired by Tolkien’s Middle-earth.
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DE LOS PARQUES, CHILE 12 RUTA Best for… Road-trip rambling Start/end: Puerto Montt/Cape Horn Distance: 2,800km; 20 days-plus Difficulty: Moderate/Strenuous
▲ Don’t worry, you don’t have to thru-hike the whole length of southern Chile. Rather, the Ruta de los Parques de la Patagonia (launched in 2018) is an epic road-trip that links more than 60 communities and 17 national parks, providing scenic access to many trekking opportunities along the way. This covers classic treks in Punta Arenas and Torres del Paine, but it also includes virgin trails established in newly designated protected areas. For instance, the 100km Jeinimeni-Avilés Circuit skirts the Aysén region’s new Patagonia National Park, via Gloria Mountain, ancient Tehuelche wall paintings, hanging glaciers, native forest (resplendent in autumn) and swooping condors. Info: rutadelosparques.org/en Or try… The Ruta 40 highway traces the Andes down the western border of Argentina; use it to hop off for hiking around the Argentine Lake District, Perito Moreno National Park and the Fitzroy range. ⊲
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Best for… Jungle pioneering Start/end: Cockscomb Jaguar Reserve Distance: 58km return; 4-5 days Difficulty: Strenuous
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It’s claimed only a couple of hundred people have ever conquered Victoria Peak, the second-highest peak in Belize. At 1,124m, it’s not so very big but it’s a true test: located deep in Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary – the world’s first jaguar preserve – its flanks are precipitous and cloaked in dense, damp forest.
A local guide is mandatory for the out-and-back trek, as is a good level of fitness and a head for heights (some sections require scrambling and ropes). The pay-off, though, is hiking into a pristine wilderness of waterfalls, orchids, hummingbirds and howler monkeys, with sweeping views over an unbroken canopy of green and nights spent in hammocks, drifting off to jungle sounds. Info: travelbelize.org/activities/hiking Or try… 3,821m Cerro Chirripó, Costa Rica’s highest point, summitable in two days; from the top, on a clear day, you can see both the Pacific Ocean and the Caribbean Sea.
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KODO (NAKAHECHI), JAPAN 14 KUMANO Best for… Performing an ancient pilgrimage Start/end: Takijiri-oji/Kumano Nachi Taisha Distance: 68km; 4-5 days Difficulty: Moderate
Honshu’s Kii Peninsula is riddled with pilgrimage trails, a 1,200-year-old network called the Kumano Kodo that leads to the region’s sacred Shinto shrines – aside from Spain’s Camino de Santiago, these are the world’s only UNESCO-listed pilgrimages. The 68km Nakahechi (Imperial Route) was the Kumano strand favoured by nobles; it originally started in Kyoto but now begins at the Takijiri-oji shrine, from where it rambles via rice paddies, pine forests and misty mountains. It also passes the venerable hot springs village of Yunomine Onsen, where pilgrims perform ablutions before visiting the key trio of shrines: Hongu Taisha (home to a record-breaking 33m-tall torii gate), Hayatama Taisha and Nachi Taisha. Well-signed and well-preserved, the Nakahechi is the best Kumano Kodo option for self-guided walkers. Info: tb-kumano.jp/en/kumano-kodo Or try… The 1,150km Shikoku Pilgrimage, a sacred circuit around Shikoku island, linking 88 temples.
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CIRCUIT, MOROCCO 15M’GOUN
Best for… Second-highest splendour Start/end: Tabant Distance: 75km approx; 5-7 days Difficulty: Moderate/Strenuous
▲ The 4,071m M’goun Massif is only 100m lower than Jebel Toubkal – North Africa’s
highest point. But that 100m makes all the difference, drawing peak-baggers to the country’s zenith and leaving M’goun much quieter, despite being arguably the more attractive landscape. Here, the circuit trail loops via windswept cols and summits dusted in snow but also broad, green valleys, neat terraces, orchards and walnut groves, weird rock formations and
Amazigh (Berber) villages teetering on the slopes. The literal high is the straightforward slog up M’goun itself, from where views stretch across the Draa valley to the Sahara Desert. Info: visitmorocco.com/en Or try… Bulky Mount Meru (4,566m), Tanzania’s second-highest point, with Kilimanjaro views and wildlife sightings but only a fraction of the Kili-traffic.
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GREECE HOTLIST 13 PLACES PERFECT FOR LATE SUMMER AND EARLY AUTUMN Which Greek destination is right for YOU?
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Mainland marvels (clockwise from this) The Pelion train’s route extended out to Milies in 1903; Mylopotamos Beach; Tzasteni is a tiny village close to Milina town
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PELION PENINSULA
Curled like a scorpion’s tail around the Pagasetic Gulf, the Pelion Peninsula is a lush brushstroke of coastal hill country sweeping off the eastern side of the mainland. Beyond regional capital Volos, the pinethick foothills of Mount Pelion mask stone-built villages, medieval monasteries and wild trails, all filtering down to quiet fishing ports and deserted sandy beaches. It feels like an open secret; it’s just that the crowds never bother to show up, so you’ll get it largely to yourself. Volos makes for a lively introduction to the peninsula, a student town with a mythic past: this is, after all, where Jason’s Argonauts were said to have set off to find the Golden Fleece. It’s also a jumping off point for the prized beaches of the north. But the Pelion Peninsula is also prime walking country. Most of the hill villages are
linked by trails, with Tsagarada flanked by a circular hike looping orchards and cobblestone paths. To admire some of the region’s many waterfalls, start in Chania to walk through the virgin beech forest where you will find waterfalls and running streams under the shady canopy. The more adventurous may prefer the day’s trek from Makrinitsa (known as ‘Pelion’s balcony’ for its sweeping views) to Veneto, taking in the abandoned 16th century monastery of Sourvia en route. Alternatively, there’s always the 60km South Pelion Trail. Starting from Kato Gatzea, near Volos, it tumbles across the forested heart of the peninsula and down to the Aegean-lapped shores of Platania. Along the way it passes through Milies, where a 60cm-gauge railway that was constructed in 1903 still chugs up to Ano Lechonia, passing over old stone bridges and offering views of tree-covered gorges.
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here is nowhere quite like Greece for variety and its mainland and islands both offer up a plethora of travel experiences. Its landscapes transist from milk-white shores to wild mountainscapes in the blink of an eye, and each city, island and village has a history far longer than any guidebook can quickly explain. Whether you’re after a hike, bike or paddle along the coastline or want to spend your time exploring the many ancient castles, monasteries and archaeological sites, there is an adventure to be found in Greece to suit almost every type of traveller. But where to start? We’ve made it easy for you and rounded up Greece’s hottest last-minute escapes for late summer and autumn exploration. Which of these 13 Greek destination will you choose?
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The Epirus region, in the far northwest, is known to travellers for its cliff-top monasteries, dizzying gorges and bear-trekked mountains. For locals, however, the Ionian coast is the star here. It’s Greece’s unique take on the Amalfi, all colourful fishing villages and craggy beaches but with ancient cities and mythic rivers thrown in for good measure. At Parga, this riviera starts to shine. The town lies across the lush ridges and golden sands of the Kryoneri bay, cobbles ramping up to a Venetian castle that looms above. It’s a fine setting, edged by sea caves, river springs and the (disputed) remains of Nekromanteio, a temple to the dead, which lies on the banks of the Acheron river – the mythic gateway to Hades.
The Acheron is a thrill to explore today, either on kayak or horseback, fording its foreststudded banks down from the mountains. Alternatively, skim the coast south to the blue fjord of Syvota, a small village sprinkled with emerald islets, perfect for exploring by kayak. End your trip in Preveza, on the mouth of the Amvrakikos Wetlands, part of the Amvrakikos Gulf, a vast national park. Explore the gulf by boat to spot birds such as ibis and heron as well as dolphins. Don’t miss the gulf’s famous shrimp or the roe, Greece’s answer to caviar. In town, the bustling bazaar and trio of castles offer plenty to explore. Nearby, the ruins of the city of Nikopolis, built by the Roman emperor Octavian after his defeat of Mark Antony and Cleopatra, are little known to outsiders and make a fitting finale to any tour of the region.
Coastal secrets (top to bottom) People have been living in what’s now known as Parga for over 3,000 years, dating back to the Mycenaean period; present day Preveza was built on the site of ancient Vereniki town; fjord of Syvota
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Pearl-white sands and glistening waters are the calling card of Halkidiki, yet this north-eastern corner of mainland Greece defies most expectations. Yes, the region is wrapped in idyllic shores, with the peninsulas of Kassandra and Sithonia the star attractions. The latter is the quieter of the two, but in its cobbled villages, underwater ancient town (Toroni), remote cape and offshore archipelago (Vourvourou), there’s plenty to do besides lie in the sun. Explore beyond the coast and you’ll find a region with a long history. The remains of Olynthos and Stageira (birthplace of Aristotle) point to its Classical heyday, but the caves at
Petralona prove these lands were inhabited long before then, around 700,000 years ago. To the east lies Mount Athos, an independent monastic state, and amid its cliff-top trails, gardens and hermitages are 20 Byzantine monasteries, cloaked in high walls. Only a handful of men (and men only) can visit each day, though many boat tours offer a more distant, panoramic encounter. Inland, little has changed in Halkidiki for centuries. Wander the mademohoria, or ‘ironworker’, villages to admire the Macedonianstyle architecture of the buildings. Or just stretch your legs in the timeless forests of Mount Holomontas, its slopes furred in dense holm oak and pine, while raptors hunt overhead.
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Colourful coastline (top to bottom) Swimming at Robinson Beach, Sithonia; from Assos village you can trek through the olive tree forests to the 16th century Venetian castle; houses in Kefalonia
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Few realise how beautiful the Ionian island of Kefalonia (Cephalonia) is. It boasts hidden shores of bone-white sands, vineyards stretching for kilometres across the Robola valley, and shady trails wrapping the black fir forests of Mount Ainos (1,628m). Peaceful escapes are never far away here. The red cliffs and craggy bays of the Paliki Peninsula wrap hills that ripple to clifftop monasteries. Explore golden bays that are best reached by boat (Petani) and tiny villages where the tavernas serve – and sing! – deep into the warm summer evenings. There are surprises everywhere. Near Sami, you can float the cenote-like Melissani cave, where shafts of light filter past roots in the collapsed ceiling to strike the cerulean waters
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below. Or head north to the cliff-wrapped sands of Myrtos, named in just about every list of the finest beaches in Greece. The far north of Kefalonia is well worth a visit. Here the road rises to hug maquis-tufted cliffs high above the coast, revealing tiny villages like the elegant Assos, where colourful houses skirt a shallow pebble bay, above which the ruins of the old kastro still glower menacingly. Next, visit Fiskado to admire its Venetian architecture. Stroll its streets to pass pastelhued houses, grand mansions and the still intact harbour and old town. The island’s capital, Argostoli, is also a great place to see Venetian architecture, as well as the Cyclopean walls wrapped around its old town and the music-filled and restaurant-lined Plateia Valianou (Central Square).
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Cretan culture (top to bottom) The Holy Monastery of Arkadi is visited by pilgrims from all over the world; traditional Cretan Dorada fish with Greek salad
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It’s difficult to think of Crete as just an island. It often feels more like its own country, stoic and stately, wrapped in history, culture and wild countryside. From high mountains (Ida is over 2,450m) and impressive walking country in the Samaria Gorge, to the relics of the Minoans – often described as the earliest civilisation in Europe – it’s a rugged, mythic world apart. And then there is the food. Dakos salads (filling bowls of tomatosoaked rusks), myriad cheeses and kalitsounia pies (fried filo pastry parcels often stuffed with cheese and herbs, served with honey), all washed down with a glass of fiery raki (brandy), are part of the backbone of Cretan cuisine. Hoover them up at rustic
tavernas in coastal villages such as Sfakia or the fishing port of Sissi. The cities are just as appetising. Maze-like Chania is burrowed with labyrinthine alleys and colourful Venetian mansions, Heraklion comes wrapped in grand fortifications, while the streets of Rethymno seem to chart the island’s story as you stroll from early Byzantine relics to fortified castles from the Ottoman conflict, with tales and theatre in almost every cobble. But you’ll find history across the whole island, such as the Palace of Knossos, the mythological setting for King Minos’ labyrinth. Or visit the coastal ruins of Spinalonga, a Venetian walled settlement that became a leper colony in its later years. Beyond, lie lagoons (Balos), paradisiacal shores (Elafonissi), numerous uninhabited isles and rough mountain trails.
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Nestled in the northernmost fringes of the Dodecanese, hours from Rhodes and Kos, Lipsi, with its blue-domed churches and white houses, has all the charm of an unexpected find, with a laid-back vibe and gentle pace of life. The main village skirts an old harbour where the terraces of seafood restaurants stitch the dock and a busy bakery churns out sweet-smelling bread and pies. The hill-top centre is actually a short clamber away, up cobbled slopes beneath blue-shuttered
windows. It’s a pleasant walk, as is much of the island, with its low hills easily covered on foot. It’s little wonder that, for the ancient poet Homer, this was the land of Calypso, a nymph who entranced passersby. The beaches here are truly beguiling, and most are less than an hour’s stroll from town, as you skitter past olive groves and copses of shady cypress to sandy Kambos or breezy Platis Gialos. The further east you go, the fewer people you’ll see, as the roads end and a patchwork of sun-dappled coves and hidden bays take over.
Above town at the top of Kastro Hill sits the island’s acropolis, although Lipsi’s most famous sight is further on. Every August, pilgrims flock to the church of Panagia toy Harou for a procession of its icon of the Virgin around the island and to see the annual blossoming of the dead bouquet of flowers on the icon. As part of the celebrations, a 24 hour feast takes place. Make the most of the daily boat tours and escape to the nearby islets of Makronisi, Aspronisi, Tiganakia, Marathi and Arki to enjoy their unspoiled sands and crystalline waters.
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Secluded sands (clockwise from this) Traditional architecture in Lipsi town; most of Lipsi’s beaches can be reached on foot from the town; Lipsi’s harbour is overlooked by the church of Panagia toy Harou; swimming in one of Lipsi’s bays
Remnants of the past (top to bottom) The MV Panagiotis washed up Navagio Beach in October 1980; view from the castle at Zakynthos
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ZAKYNTHOS
Zakynthos has a rather boisterous reputation, but beyond its bars you’ll find unexpected wildlife, boutique stays, a wild coastline and a laidback capital where the strains of kantádhes still pour from tavernas late at night. Spend some time exploring the island’s main town, and don’t miss the steep hike up cobbled switchbacks to reach the remains of the castle (dating back to the 15th century) above, from where you can enjoy rewarding and revealing views across the verdant ridges inland. To the south-east, the forest-wrapped beaches of Vasilikos make for a quiet escape. Many are home to nesting loggerhead turtles, although these are best spied on boat trips to the breeding grounds of Marathonisi Island, with
many cruises also stopping at Cape Keri so you can swim in the sea caves. Boats are a great way to see Zakynthos. The sands of Navagio (“Shipwreck Beach”) are only reachable by water, with visitors deposited by the wreck of the MV Panagiotis and free to wander its golden shores beneath the chalk-white cliffs. Then there’s the Blue Caves, a series of limestone arches where the morning light bounces off the water to dazzling effect. A worthy alternative is to drive inland, hugging the craggy west coast and wooded hill country. Here the old villages of Kiliomenos and the valley-dwelling Loucha offer a peaceful retreat of artisanal co-ops, vineyards and old monasteries. A far cry from most people’s first impression of the island.
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When the Roman author Pliny the Elder saw the remains of Rhodes’s great Colossus, toppled by earthquakes, he declared that, ‘even lying on the ground it is a marvel’. The island still has the power to impress, no more so than in one of the greatest medieval citadels of Europe. To wander Rhodes’s Old Town is to lose yourself among its Byzantine relics. Summit its grand walls, parade the seven inns of the Street of the Knights, then finish in the Palace of the Grand Master. Dating back to the 14th century when it was first built by the Knights Hospitaller, the castle has had a fascinating and compelling history over the years which can be learned about at the two museums held within the castle walls. South of the capital, the coast takes over. Golden beaches run the eastern shores down
to the eye-catching cliff-side village of Lindos, home to a grand acropolis. Steep steps rise from its covered market, passing old captain’s houses-turned-bars, to the remains of its ancient city, peering imperiously out to the Aegean beyond. Inland, rocky springs and the ghost town of Eleousa lie at the foot of Mount Profitis Ilias. Eleousa was built by the Italians in the early 1900s, and makes for an excellent stroll. Or continue to the west coast where the windbattered castles of Kritinia and Monolithos guard a shoreline of wild, monstrous crag. Finish among the protected sweetgum forests of Petaloudes, aptly dubbed the ‘Valley of Butterflies’, which is home to millions of Jersey tiger moths. They plaster the sticky trees every summer, feeding on the resin but are easily startled, so tread lightly.
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Colossal substitutes (top to bottom) Two deer statues now mark the spots where it is believed the Colossus of Rhodes once stood at Mandraki harbour; Lindos Acropolis; the sand dunes on Limnos’ northern coast
Rolling dunes, petrified forests, Mars-like rocks and one of the oldest settlements in Europe. Limnos has a setting to rival any other island in the Aegean, yet it still seems to escape the notice of most travellers. Venture to its northern coast and you’ll find the only desert in Greece. When the wind whips up, its dune sands shift like an ocean, their finely etched ripples breaking on the white lilies that bloom on their fringes. Also in the north of the island, you’ll find the snowball-like boulders of Cape Falakro, which are just as unusual, some so perfectly spherical they look like they have been rolled by hand. And then there’s the caves hidden at the top of Kakavos mountain, which reveal a roof-less
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chapel inside an old hermit’s shelter, built discreetly to hide it from passing raiders. There’s even wildlife here. The salt flats of Aliki Lake are an unforgiving place in summer, but later in the season they fill with thousands of flamingos hot-footing the shallows, while the sea caves of Mikro Fanaraki are a common refuge for Mediterranean monk seals, often spotted playing in its waters. Even capital Myrina has its wild side. Walks up to its Byzantine castle reveal not only ruins but also the free-roaming deer living among them, fed and watered by locals. Finish back on Myrina’s old harbour, where tavernas dish up fine seafood and heaving bowls of rooster with flomaria, a thin, noodle-shaped pasta well washed down with a glass of local wine.
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Fit for royalty (top to bottom) The 15th century Castle of Nerantzia overlooks Kos’ port; Kastri islet is topped by castle remains and can be reached by boat or swimming from Kefalos beach
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KOS
From the hot-water sands of Therma to the chalk-white shores of Kefalos and the south-west coast, it’s easy to see why Kos caught the imagination of the beach crowd. Yet this Dodecanese island has a history and charm beyond its shoreline, and one best discovered on two wheels. Capital Kos Town is filled with cycle lanes that trickle past the harbour and old city walls down to its Crusader-built fortress. As you scroll on through, the Italian bombast of its 19th-century redevelopment slowly unravels to reveal older Middle Eastern influences, recalling the island’s long occupation. The city’s real treasures date from further back, however. In the suburbs lie excavated
Roman houses, a restored odeon, gymnasium and agora, and an asklepieion. The latter was built to honour Hippocrates, the famed Greek physician who hailed from Kos and was said to have taught under a plane tree that ( just about) still stands in front of the Loggia mosque. Outside the capital, there’s plenty to see. From the salt lake of Tigaki, which fills with flamingos in winter, a loop inland takes you past vineyards, through hill country and back to town. On the way, visit the remains of Old Pyli, a rock-top castle with views of the mountains and the coast; the artisanal boutiques of Zia village; and the ghost town of Haihoutes, which was abandoned in the 1970s but has since sparked to life with B&Bs and a taverna making the most of the trails nearby. A grand escape.
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SKIATHOS
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Lying on the western edge of the Sporades archipelago, life in Skiathos revolves around the coast, with some 60 beaches that run the gamut from white pebbles to milky sands, all swaddled in boutique hotels and thick forests of pine. Koukounaries, a thin arc of sand lapped by azure waters, is perhaps the best known of the beaches here, but there are dozens knitting the south coast that are just as impressive. For something a little more remote, try Lalaria, a lonely northern cove edged by tall limestone cliffs that can only be reached by boat charter. Offshore, trips to the nearby islets of Tsougria and Arkos reveal yet more isolated shores and sheltered coves perfect for snorkel
safaris and shore dives. But you needn’t escape the island for a bit of quiet. Twenty-six well-marked hiking trails, just shy of a combined length of 200km, crisscross Skiathos. The inland trails see few other travellers, especially in the hilly north-west where sun dappled paths emerge blearily on hidden monasteries. Alternatively, walk to the ruins of the medieval kastro that once sheltered the entire island within its walls. These days, most locals live in capital Skiathos Town, a labyrinthine mass of whitewashed alleys that found fame as a filming location for Mamma Mia!. Slick terraced restaurants line the harbour either side of the Bourtzi, a ruined fortress on a tiny forested peninsula, and you’ll be hard pressed to find a better spot to end the evening.
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North to south Filled with cobblestone alleyways and whitewashed houses, Skiathos is popular for its Mamma Mia! filming locations; (bottom) Koufonissia’s port
It wasn’t that long ago since the islands of the Lesser Cyclades were almost completely secret. 30 years ago, Koufonisia (meaning ‘hollow islands’, named after the gaping caves that used to trick pirates into thinking the islands were hollow) was little known. Today, its main island, Ano Koufonisi, is likened to Mykonos in summer, when capital Hora swells with visitors. But go later in the season and you can see it how it used to be. Ano Koufonisi is the main stop here, with its surge in visitors having fuelled its chic stays and eateries. Despite this, the island still feels like a forgotten corner. You could walk it in hours, and cars are unnecessary. Hire a bike or stroll trails to the long white sands of Pori
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and Fanos, where the clear waters are perfect for snorkelling. Alternatively, take a dip in the turquoise waters of the Piscina natural pool. Koufonisia isn’t just one island. Boats to neighbouring Kato Koufonisi reveal a pretty port, a handful of pristine beaches and abandoned houses, now used for storage by fishermen. No one lives here permanently and there are few facilities, although this is positively metropolitan compared to the nearby Keros. Boat trips around Keros skirt what was once a centre for the Cycladic people. Today, it’s an important archaeological site and exploration is off limits. You’ll have to content yourself with exploring its rugged coastline, with the pit stops en route to swim the sea caves of tiny islet Glaronissi making for fine compensation.
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Culture on the coast (clockwise from this) Plaka town from its castle; the Catacombs of Milos are considered to be the most important early Christian monument of worship in all of Greece; caves off the shore of Kleftiko; Mandrakia fishing village
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MILOS
Milos is the overlooked middle child of the Cyclades. Yes, it has fine beaches, volcanic springs, and the Venus di Milo was found here. But with Santorini next door, it’s been largely left undiscovered by the majority of travellers. What makes Milos so special is where you can’t go – at least by car. Its whole western side is given over to a nature reserve created to protect its endemic species (watch out for the local vipers). The volcanic coast is pocked with coves, beaches and sea caves, such as Kleftiko, an old pirate hideaway only reachable by boat – or for the really adventurous – by foot. Over at Sarakiniko, a narrow inlet of clear water is wrapped in snow-white rock, creating
a wild moonscape. Then there’s the old fishing villages, where you can stay in traditional syrma atop boathouses: Klima is surrounded by history with a Roman theatre and the ruins of Fylakopi, the ancient centre of obsidian trading in the Cyclades, nearby. Dating back even further are the catacombs of Tripiti, a network of burial chambers created around the 1st century AD. Some 2,000 Christians were buried here until landslides sealed it off. It’s only a short trip to nearby Plaka, one of the prettiest white-washed villages on the island, and every inch as charming as Santorini. Whichever escape you choose, you’ll not be disappointed. So get planning and discover your own corner of Greece, your way…
For more information, go to: visitgreece.gr/inspirations/all-you-want-is-greece
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Images courtesy of The New Big 5 project; © Nelis Wolmarans; Graeme Green; Usha Harish; Anette Mossbacher; Dave Sandford
NEW BIG FIVE PROJECT
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BIG 5 Images courtesy of The New Big 5 project; © Nelis Wolmarans; Graeme Green; Usha Harish; Anette Mossbacher; Dave Sandford
Meet ‘The New Big 5’ of wildlife photography and find out how travel can help these endangered animals
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lthough many travellers think that the ‘Big Five’ refers to Africa’s most beautiful, most popular or largest wildlife, it’s actually an old term with a grim history. It was used by trophy hunters in Africa for the five most-prized and dangerous animals to shoot and kill: elephant, rhino, leopard, Cape buffalo and lion. The New Big 5 project now has a better use for that term: to celebrate the animals that we share the planet with via photography. Launched in April 2020, the international initiative set out to create a new ‘Big Five’, this time of wildlife photography rather than hunting. Shooting with a camera, not a gun. Created by British photographer Graeme Green, the project is supported by more than 250 global photographers, conservationists and wildlife charities. Among that illustrious number is Dr Jane Goodall, Chris Packham, Marsel van Oosten, Jonathan and Angela Scott, Levison Wood, Save The Elephants, Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund, Polar Bears International, the Orangutan Foundation, and many more. The project started with travellers from around the world being invited to vote on The New Big 5 website (newbig5. com) for their five favourite animals to photograph or see in photos. The results of the year-long vote have come in and
been counted. The five animals chosen by the public for The New Big 5 of wildlife photography are: elephants, polar bears, tigers, gorillas and lions. The New Big 5 offers a different bucket list for travellers, wildlife lovers and photographers to experience in their lifetime, one based on life, art and creativity, rather than one that is rooted in hunting. Visiting the places where The New Big 5 animals live helps support local people and also the vital conservation work being done to protect these and other threatened species. All of The New Big 5 face serious threats to their existence and are listed as ‘Endangered’, ‘Critically Endangered’ or ‘Vulnerable’ on the IUCN’s Red List of Threatened Species. But they’re just the most visible tip of an iceberg, and part of the project’s aims is to shine a broader light on conservation efforts across the globe and of humanity’s relationship with the natural world. “We now have the results of The New Big 5 project,” says Dr Jane Goodall. “These five animals – elephants, polar bears, gorillas, tigers and lions – are such remarkable species, and are wonderful ambassadors for the world’s wildlife, from iconic species to little-known frogs, fish and birds. So many face threats to their survival from issues such as poaching, habitat loss and climate change. A million species are at risk of extinction. If we work together, we can stop this happening. There is always hope. Change is possible if we each play our part.” ⊲
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THE NEW BIG 5 PROJECT
POLAR BEAR
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eople are often surprised to discover that polar bears are classified as marine mammals, thanks to their spending most of their lives on the Arctic Ocean’s sea ice. As such, they’re naturally excellent swimmers, with paws measuring up to 30cm across, useful too for padding around on ice and snow. They can cover vast ranges of more than 600,000 sq km in countries including Canada, Norway, Greenland and Russia. Scientists estimate the global polar bear population is around 23,315 bears. The International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) lists the animal as ‘Vulnerable’, with an estimated decline of 40% in some populations, such as the one from the Southern Beaufort Sea at North America’s north-western tip. The greatest threat to polar bears’ survival is the climate change-caused loss of sea ice, which they rely on to hunt, travel, breed and raise their young. Polar bears are also hunted for their fur, which is often sold to markets in Asia. Industrial activity, including oil drilling, also causes disturbances to dens, reducing cubs’ chances of survival.
Krista Wright
Executive Director, Polar Bears International
“I’m so excited polar bears are part of The New Big 5.They’re keenly intelligent and endlessly fascinating to photograph and watch – mothers snuggle with cubs, big males play-wrestle in the snow, and curious youngsters play with kelp along the shore. No two viewings are the same. “I’m also drawn to polar bears because they are such a powerful symbol of sea ice loss from global climate warming and a poignant messenger on the urgent need to act. If we do not act swiftly, not only do we face a future without polar bears but climate impacts will threaten our most basic needs for survival such as clean air, clean water and food availability. What affects polar bears, affects us all.”
Did You Know?
Polar bears’ fur isn’t actually white. Each shaft of hair is pigment-free and transparent, with a hollow core that scatters and reflects visible light, in much the same way that ice and snow do, which makes their hair appear white to the human eye.
Best Place To See…
Churchill, Manitoba, in Canada is renowned as the ‘polar bear capital of the world’ as it’s in middle of the migratory route of the Western Hudson Bay polar bear sub-population. Wexas Travel’s week-long tailor-made Polar Bears of Churchill trip includes three nights at the Tundra Inn in Churchill, where unique tundra buggies get guests close to the Arctic wanderers; from £4,775pp; wexas.com Spitsbergen, in Norway’s Svalbard region, is one of the world’s most-likely destinations to observe the world’s largest carnivores in their natural habitat, as well as other Arctic wildlife, from whales to reindeer. Intrepid Travel’s 14-day Spitsbergen in Depth costs from £9,400pp; intrepidtravel.com For something even more remote, head to Wrangel Island, off the far-eastern coast of Russia, the world’s ‘maternity ward for polar bears’. Heritage Expeditions’ 15-day Across the Top of theWorld:Wrangel Island expedition cruise also has the potential to uncover Pacific walruses and grey whales. From US$9,350pp (£6,879); ⊲ heritage-expeditions.com
PHOTO TIP By Dave Sandford “In the Arctic, it can get very cold, so dress in layers and dress properly for the conditions. It’s far better to be overdressed and shed layers instead of not being warm enough. There’s nothing worse than having to cut your shoot short because you weren’t properly prepared for the conditions – and even worse if you’re shooting with others and end up cutting their time short too.”
154 September/October 2021
Images courtesy of The New Big 5 project © Dave Sandford; Daisy Gilardini
‘Be prepared for the cold’
THE NEW BIG 5 PROJECT
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156 September/October 2021
THE NEW BIG 5 PROJECT
GORILLA
G
orillas are the world’s largest pr imate and share more than 98% of their DNA with humans. They’re vital to the health of forest habitats, maintaining plant growth and distributing seeds. However, gorilla populations are losing their habitat due to human encroachment, mining and climate change; dangerous snares left by bushmeat-hunting poachers can inflict often-fatal injuries. Mountain gorillas are mainly found in just three African countries: Rwanda, Uganda and Democratic Republic of Congo (DCR). But while effective conservation work means their populations are slowly recovering – they’ve been reclassified from ‘Critically Endangered’ to ‘Endangered’ – the last census of mountain gorillas put their number at just 1,063. Grauer’s gorillas (or eastern lowland gorillas), found only in DRC, face a more bleak future. Listed as ‘Critically Endangered’, there are an estimated 3,800 of this sub-species remaining, a drop of 80% in just two decades
Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka Best Place To See… Founder/CEO of Conservation Through Public Health
“A good photograph can bring out gorillas’ personalities and inspire people to protect them. If you’re able to catch a mountain gorilla’s eyes and facial expressions, the image can be extremely powerful. On top of being curious and intelligent, younger gorillas are playful and adults tend to be more thoughtful, enabling a wide range of expressions to be captured. “Mountain gorilla numbers are thankfully increasing slowly, a sign of successful conservation efforts in their countries. Grauer’s gorillas are declining in dangerous numbers, though.We must do everything we can to ensure gorillas have a future with us on the planet.”
Did You Know?
Gorillas move ‘home’ a lot. They construct new nests to sleep in every night, with infants usually sharing a nest with their mother. Researchers count gorilla nests to figure out the size of a group, as well as an area’s overall population.
Rwanda and Uganda offer the best, safest opportunities to see a gorilla in the wild. A permit in Rwanda costs US$1,500 (around £1,080). In Rwanda, head to Volcanoes National Park to spend time with mountain gorillas, staying in Bisate Lodge.The Luxury Safari Company organise a 7-night stay from £13,780pp, including three permits; theluxurysafaricompany.com Generally cheaper than Rwanda, Uganda offers gorilla tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. See the gorillas and then visit the chimps at Murchison Falls and Kibale Forest national parks with Wildlife Worldwide on their 14-day Uganda’s Unforgettable Wildlife tour, from £5,395pp; wildlifeworldwide.com For a chance to see western lowland gorillas, venture into the Republic of the Congo. Rainbow Tours takes in Odzala-Kokoua National Park on their 11-day Congo Explorer & Gorillas adventure, from £8,659pp, with the opportunity to see other animals, from forest elephants to moustached monkeys; rainbowtours.co.uk ⊲
PHOTO TIP
Images courtesy of The New Big 5 project; © Nelis Wolmarans; Usha Harish
‘Be quiet’
By Usha Harish “Set your camera to ‘silent’ mode. When spending time with gorillas, you want to be as peaceful, quiet and non-intrusive as possible, so they relax around you. The beeping of a camera doesn’t help. You want to avoid alerting the animal so you get candid shots of them in their natural habitat. The weather can also be unpredictable, so I always pack a rain jacket for myself and a rain cover for my camera.”
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TIGER
O
f all the big cats, the tiger is the closest to extinction, listed globally as ‘Endangered’ on the IUCN’s Red List of Threatened Species. There are only around 3,900 left in the wild globally but an estimated 20,000 tigers in captivity globally, many of them in Tiger King-style zoos and ‘sanctuaries’. This removal has a broader knock-on effect: tigers maintain the balance of predator and prey, helping to preserve an ecosystem’s delicate equilibrium. The illegal wildlife trade in tiger bones, skins and other products, used for medicine or decorations in China, Vietnam and other parts of Asia, continues to fuel the rapid decline. Habitat destruction and human-wildlife conflict also add to the crisis. In India, numbers are stable, but wild tigers have been largely wiped out in Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos and China; the Malayan (150-200 left) and Sumatran (300-370) sub-species are listed as ‘Critically Endangered’. There are thought to be around 175 tigers roaming in Thailand; in contrast, that country has an estimated 2,500 in captivity.
Poonam Dhanwatey
Co-Founder and Trustee, Tiger Research and Conservation Trust (TRACT))
“I love wild cats, so I am delighted tigers have made it into The New Big 5. Tigers are a very interesting subjects for photographers, with their golden hues in the sun and their extreme range of expressions that they display, from playfulness with the cubs to being the ultimate predator. “Unfortunately, there are barely 3,900 tigers left in the wild. They face many threats, from poaching for their skins and bones, from fragmentation of habitat and from human-wildlife conflict. It’s an absolute tragedy that these creatures are endangered. This is the time to work across boundaries and across landscapes to save them.”
Did You Know?
Tigers are equipped with soft toe pads, enabling them to walk silently through the forest, which makes them stealthy and effective hunters. A tiger often travels up to 20km a night for hunting. One meal, such as a large deer, can provide enough food for a week.
Best Place To See…
Debate rages as to the best place to see tigers in India. Bamboo Travel’s 13-day On The Tiger’s Trail tour includes the renowned national parks of Bandhavgarh and Kanha (setting of Rudyard Kipling’s The Jungle Book)as well as the quieter Panna National Park and nearby Khajuraho temple complex, from £3,290pp; bambootravel.co.uk Founded in 1934, Periyar National Park was declared a tiger sanctuary in 1978 and still has one of the highest concentrations of this big cat. Hayes & Jarvis seek out tigers here as part of their 10-day Kerala, South India trip, from £2,099pp; hayesandjarvis.co.uk Though more elusive, tigers can also be seen in Nepal’s national parks, such as Bardia and Chitwan. Transindus’ 12-day Wildlife of Nepal experience takes in both, from £3,355pp. transindus.co.uk For a remote adventure, track Siberian tigers and the elusive Amur Leopard on a snow-covered safari in Russia’s Durminskoye Reserve. Responsible Travel’s 10-day Siberian Tiger & Amur Leopard Tours In Russia costs from £2,995; responsibletravel.com ⊲
PHOTO TIP By Suzi Eszterhas “Photographing tigers is ripe with challenges. Tigers can be elusive, and they require patience so be prepared to invest a lot of time. It can take time to even find a tiger, and then it can take hours, days or even weeks to capture a powerful image.”
158 September/October 2021
Images courtesy of The New Big 5 project; © Steve Winter; Vladimir Cech Jr/ vladimircechjr.com
‘Be patient’
THE NEW BIG 5 PROJECT
“I’m all for The New Big 5. It’s the perfect way to instigate a transition between something that is no longer ethically, morally or scientifically acceptable, and transforming people’s passion from something that is dead to something that is alive. If hunters were all shooting with cameras, that would be significant progress. I hope the project helps highlight the urgent need for action to protect the world’s wildlife and our planet.” Chris Packham
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LION
160 September/October 2021
Graeme Green
Photographer and Founder, The New Big 5 Project
“Lions are powerful animals, but also capable of gentle, affectionate behaviour. Maybe because they look so strong, many people think they’re doing fine, but their numbers are declining rapidly. I hope we can help turn the tide for lions and other species, all of which are too valuable to lose. “ G r e a t p h o t o g r a p hy h a s a n emotional power. It can get people to stop and pay attention. It can draw them into a story, get them involved, and in some cases change the outcome of a story. Photos can be reminders of what is at stake and what we have to lose, if we don’t protect the wildlife we share the planet with.”
Did You Know?
A lioness is usually a pride’s main hunter. The male lion’s role is to protect the pride. Lions love to hunt at night and also during storms, when noise and wind distract prey animals, making it less easy for them to detect incoming danger.
Best Place To See…
Kenya’s Mara Conservancies not only support local communities and conservation efforts but they are world class locations for photographing big cats, including lions. The Ultimate Travel Company offer eight nights, staying at Kicheche Mara Camp in Mara North and Valley Camp in Naboisho, from £4,295pp; theultimatetravelcompany.co.uk Botswana’s Moremi Game Reserve, on the western side of the Okavango Delta, is known as the world’s predator capital, a fantastic place to see lions, especially in the floodplain areas where abundant prey is found. Exodus Travels take in Moremi, the Okavango Delta and the salt flats of Makgadikgadi Pans on their 14-day Wildlife andWilderness of Botswana trip, from £2,799; exodus.co.uk To see the Asiatic lions in the wild, you need to head to Western India and Gir NP, also home to sloth bears, cobras and striped hyenas. A three-day trip to Gir is included in Audley Travel’s 12-day Wildlife In Gujarat itinerary, from £3,720pp; audleytravel.com
Images courtesy of The New Big 5 project; © Carole Deschuymere; Tom Svennson
L
ions are apex predators, at the top of the food chain, and help maintain a balance with prey species, including herbivores that would otherwise over-run and degrade vegetation. This symbiotic relationship lies is now at risk. African lion numbers have declined by about half in the last 25 years. Recent estimates suggest there are only around 20,000-25,000 remaining in the wild, although there could be fewer than 20,000. Bushmeat hunting (which reduces lions’ prey), habitat loss and human-wildlife conflict are the main threats, with expanding human populations, agriculture and development steadily encroaching into established lion habitats. The poaching of these big cats for body parts, for traditional practices in Africa or the Asian medicine market, has also emerged as a threat. Outside of Africa, lions are only found in Gir National Park in India, where there are around 670 lions. Previously the Asiatic Lion’s territory had stretched from the Middle East all the way through India into Pakistan.
THE NEW BIG 5 PROJECT
ELEPHANT
E
lephants are the largest living land mammals on Earth. Intelligent and emotional animals, they’ve even been known to mourn the deaths of other elephants. However, there are only an estimated 447,500 left on the planet, including 415,000 African elephants (down from 1.2 million in the 1970s) and 30,00035,000 Asian elephants. You can tell the two species apart from the fact that African elephants have bigger ears and rounder heads than the twin-domed headed Asian elephants, and are often much larger too. For the first time, the IUCN recently listed the African forest elephant as ‘Critically Endangered’ and the slightly larger African savanna elephant (or African bush elephant) as ‘Endangered’, following dramatic population declines over several decades. An estimated 55 African elephants per day are still being killed by poachers, with habitat loss the other big factor. The total number of Sumatran elephants – one of the three sub-species of the Asian Elephant – is estimated to be around 1,400, with potentially only 10 years to save them.
Iain Douglas-Hamilton
Founder, Save The Elephants
“Elephants face severe threats to their existence. It’s vital to get rid of the demand for ivory. We need to stop the killing, stop the trafficking and decrease the demand for ivory. Habitat loss is another serious challenge, linked to human-wildlife conflict, in which elephants are often killed or injured. We need to preserve wild spaces and corridors where elephants can roam freely and safely. Africa’s elephants are still endangered and their future is far from assured. They could be lost in a human lifetime unless humanity cares enough to prevent this from happening.”
Did You Know?
Elephants are ‘ecosystem engineers’ that perform vital jobs to modify landscapes and allow biodiversity to flourish, including spreading seeds to plant more trees via their dung. Elephants can deposit upwards of 150kg of dung daily.
Best Place To See…
Amboseli National Park, Kenya, already one of the best places in the world to view elephants, is enjoying a calving boom, with just over 226
elephant calves born in 2020. Yellow Zebra Safaris have a tailor-made 7-day multi-destination safari that includes Amboseli and the Maasai Mara from £3,694pp, staying in two Elewana camps; yellowzebrasafaris.com Chobe National Park in northwest Botswana is home to the largest elephant population in the world, with more than 100,000 Kalahari elephants. Llama Travel have a 14-day Delta Mobile Safari &Victoria Falls multi-destination trip that costs from £3,749pp; llamatravel.com Hwange National Park in Zimbabwe is also famous for their local giants, who lumber alongside endangered African wild dogs and other wildlife. Natural World Safaris take in Hwange on their 8-day Victoria Falls And Hwange Painted Dog Safari trip; from £3,060pp; naturalworldsafaris.com Outside of Africa, Sri Lanka’s Udawalawe National Park is home to some of Asia’s largest elephants, as well as a ‘transit home’ that rehabilitates orphans and injured elephants and releases them back into the wild. Selective Asia’s 14-day An Insider’s Sri Lanka adventure spends time in Udawalawe; from £2,447; selectiveasia.com
PHOTO TIP ‘Get low’
By Tom Svennson “I prefer lower angles on my photos, so I recommend people try to keep as low as they can. Otherwise, photos tend to be looking down on animals. Lay down in the jeep or hold your camera low from you, so you can turn your screen. But never go outside or close to the elephants unless you have a ranger, as it can be dangerous to both you and the elephants.” For interviews, podcasts, photo galleries and articles on wildlife, photography and conservation, plus a free educational Fun Pack for young people, see: www.newbig5.
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WELCOME...
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My earliest travel memories are of France. We’d go every summer to spend time together as a family, taking the ferry and then driving across the country, slowing down to stop at many of the cultural and natural sights along the way. The last two years has taught us that travel should never be taken for granted. We’ve been reminded of the power travel has to reconnect us to each other and to the world around us, helping us to create long-lasting memories. It’s reminded us of what really matters: spending time with loved ones, creating unforgettable adventures and feeling humbled by nature. In Western France, with its ancient architecture, local customs and wild spaces, you can rediscover all of that.
Despite its proximity to the UK, Western France feels world’s away, making it perfect for a long and relaxing escape. By taking the slow (and more sustainable) route by ferry and car, you can take your time exploring the lesserknown villages, beaches, vineyards and cultural hubs of Brittany, Normandy and the Atlantic Loire Valley. We have created three itineraries that allow you to discover the hidden secrets of these regions at your own pace. Whatever road you decide to take, we urge you to slow down, take time to savour the present moment and rediscover what really matters to you. Bon Voyage!
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A bridge to France At the western edge of the Parc Naturel d’Armorique, the Pointe de Dinan’s natural archway makes it look like a drawbridge to a rocky fortress
Written by Carolyn Boyd Images this spread Berthier Emmanuel; Mike Woods; Getty; Benjamin Deroche Previous page Teddy Verneuil
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REACH WESTERN FRANCE WITH BRITTANY FERRIES
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fter a comfortable day on board or a peaceful night in your cabin, there are few things quite like standing up on the deck of the ferry and seeing France slowly shift into view. With options to sail-in overnight (spending the night in your own cabin) or during the day, Brittany Ferries makes for a convenient start to any road-trip from the UK to Western France. Each of the five French ports that Brittany Ferries sails into along the north coast has
its own appeal. Le Havre (an overnight ferry journey from Portsmouth) entices history buffs with its striking post-war architecture: make a beeline for Saint Joseph’s Church to stare into its kaleidoscopic tower, filled with 6,500 pieces of coloured glass; elsewhere Brazilian architect Oscar Niemeyer’s theatre Le Volcan erupts into sweeping white curves opposite the quayside. Sail into Caen (under six hours from Portsmouth) and within minutes of rolling off the ferry, you can be discovering the daring stories associated with D-Day at the Pegasus Bridge Museum and exploring the D-Day beaches. From Cherbourg ( just four-and-a-half hours from Poole, or an overnight trip from Portsmouth), the Cotentin peninsula awaits with its dramatic coastline and villages such as Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue. Sail into Saint-Malo (an overnight ferry from Portsmouth) to indulge in its food scene, its corsair (pirate) history and the Emerald Coast. Some 200km west, Roscoff (reachable by a six-to-eight-hour ferry from Plymouth) delights with its fishing boats coming into the
harbour, its cobbled streets and its proximity to Île de Batz, just a 15-minute boat ride away. Not only is going by ferry more environmentally friendly, it’s a much more relaxing way to travel. Being in your own car means you can just fill the boot with all you need (and, for the return trip, all your favourite French food and wine) and explore where you want, when you want, at your own pace. If you choose to go on foot or by bike, you simply walk or wheel your bike on board, enjoy the shops, cafés and entertainment on the ferry and, after disembarking, continue your journey into France on public transport. Finally, with flexible booking options, you can easily book to arrive at one port and leave from another, making a round-trip easy with Brittany Ferries. ⊲
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Thousands of years of history, authentic Gallic culture and cuisine, and kilometres of diverse landscapes to traverse
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Mont-Saint-Michel
There’s no denying how striking Mont-SaintMichel is, set on its own island surrounded by the dramatic tides of the bay. You’ll be following in the footsteps of centuries of pilgrims when you explore its warren of streets that climb up to the abbey church, built over a period of some 1,300 years.
The D-Day Landing Beaches
Pay a respectful visit to the beaches on which the British, American and Canadian troops landed in June 1944. The museums, cemeteries and memorials here tell of the true heroism of D-Day, as well as the daring and meticulous plans that preceded it.
Giverny
See the waterlily-strewn ponds and Japanese bridge that inspired Claude Monet’s paintings at Giverny, where his garden still colourfully bursts into life each summer. Monet’s house,
meanwhile, showcases the daily life of the Impressionist master, who was passionate about Japanese art and loved hosting friends in his brightly painted home.
Bayeux
This medieval Normandy town is best known as the home to the millennium-old tapestry that tells the story of William the Conqueror’s rise to the English throne. Also leave time to visit Bayeux’s Gothic Cathedral dating back to the 12th century, the grand 17th and 18th century townhouses, and the fine restaurants and cafés.
Rouen
Set on the banks of the Seine, the city of Rouen lures history-lovers. Its links to Joan of Arc are told through the multi-media experience Historial Jeanne d’Arc, while Monet was so taken by the cathedral’s façade, he painted over 30 views of it. Seek out the Gros-Horloge astronomic clock and admire the medieval architecture.
For more information, visit: normandy-tourism.org & atlantic-loire-valley.com
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BRITTANY Saint-Malo
Saint-Malo’s old town is surrounded by ramparts: walk around the top of the walls before diving into the narrow, cobbled streets below for gourmet food stores, crêperies and cafés. Elsewhere, stroll along the sea front, and explore the many museums dedicated to the town’s seafaring heritage.
The Carnac Stones
Brittany’s answer to Stonehenge comprises nearly 3,000 aligned stones covering an area of over four kilometres, thought to have been erected some 6,000 years ago during the Neolithic-era. Join a guided tour and visit the on-site Maison des Mégalithes to deepen your understanding.
Pointe du Raz & the Cap Sizun
Antoine2k - Fotolia.com; Shutterstock; © V. Joannon - CRT Normandie; Emmanuel Berthier; Simon BOURCIER - Morbihan Tourisme; A. Lamoureux
The Cap Sizun leads out to the Pointe du Raz, France’s westernmost point. Enjoy coastal walks across its heather and gorse-strewn headland, with the Atlantic crashing against the cliffs below. Explore the working fishing village of Audierne and take a trip out to the bijou Île du Sein.
Canal de Nantes à Brest
Relax on a boat trip along the Nantes to Brest canal, an over-360km waterway that cuts through inland Brittany and passes through
Wonder wall (clockwise from this) The ramparts of the ‘pirate’ city of Saint-Malo, Brittany, were rebuilt after 1661’s great fire; Sainte-Suzzanne is nicknamed the Pearl of Maine; Côte sauvage du Croisic; the chateau de Josselin, designated a ‘Petite Cite de Caractere’; Giverny; Mont-St-Michel; the Carnac Stones
a landscape dotted with castles, characterful towns and the Réserve Naturelle de Gomel. Alternatively, follow the smooth cycle paths, or even take to the water in a canoe.
Pink Granite Coast
The sea and wind has hewn the pink granite boulders along the coast near Perros-Guirec into something of a natural sculpture park. Walk along the coastal path to admire them, stopping for picnics or paddles on the beaches. Better still, take a paddle board out to see them from the water.
ATLANTIC LOIRE VALLEY Le Croisic’s Coastline
Tucked in the corner under Brittany, on a peninsula that curls around the bay, the picturesque fishing port of Le Croisic is a good base. Across the water, Guérande is home to a centuries-old tradition of salt cultivation, and nearby La Baule offers a nine kilometre beach with elegant sea-facing Belle Epoque villas.
Pointe du Payré
With sweeping white sands beneath turquoise waters, Vendée’s estuary at Pointe du Payré and the Plage du Veillon are reminiscent of Australia’s Whitsundays. At this protected natural site, enjoy walks across the sand dunes
and the craggy cliffs. Stop at the oyster-farming village of La Guittière to swig back the seafood.
Sainte-Suzanne
Sainte-Suzanne in the Mayenne department is regularly counted as one of France’s ‘Most beautiful villages’, and its hollyhocks and neat stone cottages makes it easy to see why. The village is surrounded by medieval ramparts and its chateau (which famously saw off William the Conqueror) is set on a promontory overlooking the Erve Valley.
Le Mans’ Historic Quarter
While Le Mans is best known for its car racing, the city’s Historic Quarter (also called the ‘Plantagenet City’ as it is the birthplace of the Plantagenet dynasty) is worth a lingering sojourn. Its cobbled streets and half-timbered houses were used in the celebrated 1990 film adaptation of Cyrano de Bergerac, as well as many other movies.
Poitevin Marshlands
The Marais Poitevin is the second largest area of wetlands in France and its area of wet marshland is known as ‘Green Venice’. Hire a barge from one of the many jetties and punt along the waterways admiring wildlife including ⊲ otters, herons and tree frogs.
brittanytourism.com & brittany-ferries.co.uk
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Follow this road trip for dramatic coastlines, craggy paths and bird-rich waterways…
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Harbourside history (clockwise from this) Honfleur harbour’s location made it a key port during the Hundred Years’ War; beach cabins in the Gouvillesur-Mer dunes, on the way to Granville; the 14th century Fort-LaLatte on the Emerald Coast
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Le Havre to Le Tréport
Distance: 143km (by car) or 194km (walking)
Sail into Le Havre with Brittany Ferries: less than four hours from Portsmouth, it is one of its faster routes. From there, the GR21 – voted France’s best walking trail in 2019 – follows the path along the Alabaster Coast taking in sights such as the limestone cliffs at Étretat, which inspired Impressionist artists including Monet. You can also crunch along pebble beaches, saunter through verdant meadows and pause for refreshments in harbour towns such as Saint-Valery-en-Caux. From there, it’s on to Le Tréport, a bustling fishing town with chalk cliffs that are among the highest in Europe at 106m above sea level. Next, head south to Rouen.
Thibault Poriel; Sabina Lorkin; Shutterstock
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Rouen to Le Havre
Distance: 138km (by bike)
Normandy has over 500km of cycling routes covering its coast, countryside and waterways. Among the many multi-day routes is La Seine à Velo, a new 420km trail from Paris to – depending on which route you take – Deauville or Le Havre in Normandy. Start at Rouen to follow the River Seine through the Boucles de la Seine Normande Regional Natural Park. You’ll pass orchards, meadows and the ruined
Abbey at Jumièges, where the route forks. Choose the road to Deauville and you’ll pass the Marais Vernier wetlands (look out for migrating birds, frogs and Highland cows) and Honfleur with its famous harbour en route. Alternatively, pedal past the Roman ruins of Lillebonne to finish in UNESCO-listed Le Havre.
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Le Havre to Souleuvre Distance: 144km
Heading westwards, your destination is an area named Suisse Normande (Norman Switzerland) thanks to its rugged, wooded landscape, featuring jagged gorges cut from the landscape by the Orne river and its tributaries. Here,
spanning the valley above the river, the Souleuvre viaduct (built by Gustave Eiffel) is a partially dismantled railway bridge that is now home to adventure sports centre, Skypark Normandie by AJ Hackett. Gaze down into the forested valley and the River Souleuvre before leaping into the void with either a bungee jump, pendulum swing or the 400m zip wire that goes at a speed of 100km/ph.
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Souleuvre to Cap de la Hague
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La Cap de la Hague to Granville
Distance: 143km
It’s back to the coast now, with a loop into the Cotentin Peninsula, which juts into the Channel. Drive through the peaceful countryside and farmers’ fields to its northwest tip, where the Baie d’Ecalgrain is a great spot for coasteering. Protected by a helmet, life jacket and wetsuit, you can clamber into inlets with the sea crashing below and jump into the dense blue water from the rocks. The unspoiled beach is the place to relax afterwards, backed by empty hilltops, where wildflowers abound.
Distance: 128km
Head south towards the seaside town of Granville where the coast road skirts past
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empty beaches, including Gouville-sur-Mer where colourful beach huts are tucked into the dunes. From Granville’s harbour, a ferry can take you to Les Îles Chausey. Head out in a sea-kayak to see the wildlife that lives among the 365 islets (52 at high tide); spot sea birds, seals and dolphins as you paddle on the crystalline waters.
Paddle in and out of the hidden caves and crevices between the cliffs and admire the curiously shaped rocks. Back on dry land, walk the heather-clad headlands on this crossshaped peninsula that juts out into the swirling Iroise sea. Stop for a picnic or a swim in the azure waters off the beach at Camaret-sur-Mer.
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Granville to Cap Fréhel Distance: 124km
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The mighty GR34 walking route follows over 2,000km of the jagged coastline from Mont-Saint-Michel around to Saint Nazaire at the mouth of the River Loire. One of its most dramatic sections is just west of Saint-Malo on the Emerald Coast, so called for the sea’s deep green hue. Pace along the paths that stretch out along the gorse-and-heather-scented headland Cap Fréhel. Perched on the rocks at its tip is the partly ruined Fort la Latte, a 14th-century castle that reveals views of the cliffs below from the top of its tower.
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Cap Fréhel to Monts d’Arrée Distance: 155km
Head west into Brittany’s remote heartland where the region’s highest peak, the Roc’h Ruz, is just 385m above sea level. But what the surrounding Monts d’Arrée lack in altitude they
more than make up for in their rugged beauty. Climb the rocky ridges and peaks, not missing the most scenic of all, the Montagne St-Michel (not to be confused with Mont-Saint-Michel). At the top of this rounded hill, a tiny chapel has been battered by the elements since it was constructed in the 17th century. The 360° views of the green landscape will help you realise just how unspoiled Brittany is.
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Monts d’Arrée to Crozon Distance: 60km
From there, it’s under an hour’s drive to the Crozon Peninsula at the far west of Finistère, where you can take to the water by kayak.
Crozon to Lorient Distance: 133km
Onward to southern Brittany, where the gentle weather lends itself to coastal walks along the sandy beaches. Strike out to the Île de Groix with a 45-minute ferry ride from Lorient and hire bikes at the harbourside in Port Tudy. Spend the day pedalling some of the more than 40km of cycle trails that pass moorland, ancient megaliths, cliffs and coves. Back on the mainland, there’s also the curious Plage des Grands Sables, a convex beach that keeps moving further north-west due to the winds and tides, earning it the nickname ‘The Wanderer’.
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Lorient to Quiberon Distance: 44km
Around a 40-minute drive south heralds the start of the Grand Site of Gâvres-Quiberon, a chain of sand dunes that stretch uninterrupted for 35km and marked by a rocky
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Walking in Western France (clockwise from this) A daybreak hike past the Monts d’Arrée’s 17th century chapel in Armorique Regional Natural Park gives wildlife spotters the chance to see puffins, beavers and rare Montagu’s harriers; kayaking at Pen-Hir point on the Crozon peninsula; hiking the GR34 trail; menhir stone on Groix; troglodyte homes, Saumur
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caves from the 17th century right up until the 20th century. Explore the 13th century underground chapel, farm dwellings and multi-roomed houses carved out of the rock. Elsewhere in the area’s caves is the intriguing mushroom museum that grows an array of fungi, the underground restaurant Les Nobles Fouées and L’Hélice Terrestre, a sculpture gallery.
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Rochemenier to Alpes Mancelles
Distance: 171km
headland at each end. The dunes are at the whim of the wind and tides, shape-shifting on their say so. Tucked between them are lakes and mudflats that provide a habitat for much flora and fauna including rare orchids and the curry plant. Further south, on the Presqu’Ile de Quiberon, a stringy peninsula that dangles off the south coast, you can enjoy the swell of the waves during a surf lesson.
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who donated it to the state. It’s home to some 270 bird species, including grey herons, egrets and kingfishers, as well as birds of prey such as the marsh harrier. Explore some of the 72km path around it by bike, horseback or on foot and discover more about the area’s natural history at the Maison du Lac de Grand-Lieu visitor centre.
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Quiberon to Île d’Yeu Distance: 220km
Distance: 157km
Next, the route curls around the coast to Vendée. At Fromentine, a 30-minute ferry takes you to the Île de Yeu, a car-free island where you’ll discover its low-rise, whitewashed cottages with their terracotta roofs. Explore by bike and see the wilder west coast, where you’ll find coves, rocky escarpments, the rambling fort known as Vieux Chateau and, overlooking it all, the Grand Phare lighthouse. Nature rules supreme here with over 760 plant species (look out for the rare wallflower) and almost 300 species of birds including gannets in autumn and warblers in spring.
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Lac de Grand-Lieu to Rochemenier
Follow the River Loire east from Nantes towards Saumur to discover the unusual underground world of the troglodytes. The Rochemenier Troglodyte Museum shows how communities lived in the hollowed-out
Fromentine to Lac de Grand-Lieu Distance: 55km
Birdwatchers will love the next stop too: further inland in the Loire-Atlantique department, the Lac de Grand-Lieu on the plains of the River Loire was once owned by perfumer Guerlain,
The route north from near Saumur passes the city of Angers, which is a great base from which to explore the rivers Loire, Maine, Mayenne and Sarthe by bike. Along each of the four rivers are cycle paths that allow you to enjoy the countryside away from the main roads. Pedal alongside the waterways passed vineyards, parkland and remnants from the Medieval times. Stop for refreshments at the various waterside cafés known as guinguettes, which serve simple menus at their outdoor tables, before continuing up into the hilly landscape of the Alpes Mancelles.
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Alpes Mancelles to Caen Distance: 140km
Before heading home, squeeze in one more adventure at the Alpes Mancelles, a mini-mountain range that straddles the Mayenne, Sarthe and Orne departments. With some 300km of rambling routes crisscrossing the area, hikers will be spoilt for choice. Don’t miss the trek up Le Mont des Avaloirs (416m) for views over the forests and the patchwork of fields that disappear into the horizon. There are also mountain bike trails and tree-top circuits, and along the River Sarthe, you can canoe, kayak and fish. From there, it’s less than two hours north back to Caen’s port to board Brittany Ferries’ service back to Portsmouth, either overnight or for a day on deck and relaxing in their lounges and bars.
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Roscoff to Île Vierge Distance: 56km
After a night in your own cabin aboard Brittany Ferries, stroll along Roscoff’s harbour-front before heading west along the Côte des Sables, watching the golden beaches unfold in your rear-view mirror. From Aber Wrac’h, a five-minute boat (or 45 minute walk at low tide) takes you to the Île Vierge, home to Europe’s tallest stone lighthouse at over 80m. It’s one of four that make up La Route des Phares (lighthouse trail) around the far west of Finistère along with the Pointe de Saint-Mathieu, the Trézien Light and the Stiff Lighthouse. Elsewhere, book in for a stay like no other: near Audierne in south-west Finistère, the Semaphore de Lervily is a renovated lighthouse keeper’s house that sleeps eight, while the Phare de Kerbel’s bedroom is set in the octagonal glass lantern room overlooking the Quiberon peninsula in southern Brittany.
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Île Vierge to Brest Distance: 31km
Under a 40-minute drive south lands you in Brest, a town known for its links to the ocean. Don’t miss Les Ateliers des Capucins, where an ancient convent that was converted Shining a light (clockwise from this) The 365-step Île Vierge lighthouse dominates Lilia Bay; Quimper’s Cathedral of Saint Corentin was designed with an odd shape to avoid being built on a swamp; Pont Aven; Rennes’ Teenage Kicks Biennal is a celebration of its local street art scene
into industrial workshops has now been transformed again into the largest covered public square in Europe. Inside, there are cafés, restaurants and a brewery as well as boutiques and galleries, and even an indoor climbing wall. Arrive in style at the complex by cable car from the other side of the River Penfeld for a bird’s eye view of the city and its harbour below.
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Brest to Quimper Distance: 70km
You’ll spot the twin spires of Quimper’s cathedral from a distance, and they’ll lead you to the heart of this culture- and history-
stuffed town. Visit the Musée Départemental Breton, set in the former Bishops’ Palace for an insight into the region’s heritage through the traditional costumes, as well as art, ceramics, sculptures and furniture on display. Walk the narrow, medieval streets to browse the town’s boutiques before calling into a crêperie for a true Breton meal – a buckwheat galette (a savoury pancake usually filled with spinach, cheese and egg) and a cup of cider.
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Quimper to Pont Aven
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Pont Aven to Rennes
Distance: 35km
Follow the slower road (the D783) to Pont Aven, stopping at Concarneau on the way to roam around its ramparts. Continue to Pont Aven, set on the river that gave the town its name and also inspired generations of artists, including Paul Gauguin who stayed in the village several times. It was here that he met fellow artist Émile Bernard, leading to the start of the École de Pont-Aven. This saw the beginning of an art movement that rejected traditional methods, stripping art down to its essentials and focusing more on colour and symbolism. Explore the galleries and follow the trail that marks out the spots that inspired Gauguin’s paintings.
Distance: 188km
Colourful paintings abound in Rennes too, just over two hours west, where a trend for street art has seen bright murals adorn walls and fences throughout the city, much of it thanks to ‘the Banksy of Rennes’ an artist named WAR! The Breton capital is also known for its mosaic art, which started with the Odorico family, who settled in Rennes in 1882. Spanning two generations of Italian artists and craftsmen, they decorated many buildings in and around the city of Rennes (and many other places in Western France, too) with intricate and colourful mosaics, including the elaborate public swimming pool, ⊲ La Piscine Saint-Georges.
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Rennes to Fontenay-le-Comte
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The route from Rennes to Fontenay-leComte allows for plenty of pitstops to admire lesser-known castles and palaces along the way. In the heart of the city of Nantes, the 15th-century Chateaux des Ducs de Bretagne houses a cleverly curated museum that uses contemporary, digital methods to tell the many stories of Nantes’ history, from biscuits to shipbuilding. Around a 30 minute drive south is Clisson where you can visit the Chateau de Clisson – much of it built in the 13th century – before exploring the rest of the town’s Renaissance architecture.
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and the bible. An hour north, more art awaits at the Musée Robert Tatin in the Mayenne department, which opened in the early 1960s and has been intriguing visitors with its alienlike sculptures and figures ever since. Tatin’s travels in South America inspired his own imaginative world, and the park welcomes you in with the 80m-long ‘Alley of Giants’, lined with sculptures that shine a light on his artistic journey. From there, it’s around an hour’s drive to Sainte-Suzanne where its 11th-century keep looks out from high above the Erve Valley.
Distance: 232km
Fontenay-le-Comte to Angers Distance: 161km
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With so many well-preserved examples of fine Renaissance architecture, a visit to Fontenayle-Comte (dubbed the ‘fountain of beautiful minds’ by King François I) is like travelling back in time. Walk through its arcaded streets, following the trail of time-frozen mansions and manor houses such as the Sénéchaussée, the Grimouard and the Guesthouse of BeauxEsprits. Around an hour-and-a-half’s drive north to Brissac-Quincé, the tallest castle in France awaits exploration. With 204 rooms
– including a 200-seat theatre – spread over seven floors, it’s worth allowing out a couple of hours for. Over in the nearby city of Angers, its eponymous chateau is encased by 17 rotund towers and the ramparts hanging high over the River Maine.
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Angers to Sainte-Suzanne Distance: 94km
Start at Anger’s chateau and follow the bluepainted line on the pavement to see the rest of the city’s highlights including Art Deco architecture, modern murals and Maison Adam, a 15th-century, timber-framed building with several carved figures both from mythology
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Sainte-Suzanne to Le Mans Distance: 55km
Taking to Le Man’s Historic Quarter on foot is a relaxing way to see the Plantagenet City’s cobbled streets, Roman walls, half-timbered mansions and Gothic-Romanesque cathedral. Just outside the city, the Abbaye de l’Epau is a former Cistercian abbey established by English queen Berengaria of Navarre in 1229. Today it’s a serene place to learn about the monks who lived there until the French Revolution. Le Mans also makes a good base for seeing the chateaux of the Sarthe department such as the 15th century Chateau de Montmirail, which has been in the same family for over 600 years. Set on a gentle hill
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Looming over the Loire (clockwise from this) Dating back to the 10th century, Château d’Angers is the current home of the 14th century Apocalypse Tapestry; Fontenay Le Comte; Saint Cénéri le Gérei; Beuvron-en-Auge; British Normandy Memorial; the famous Deauville boards
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surrounded by the village, it offers views over the Perche Regional Nature Park. An hour’s drive south, Chateau du Lude began life in the 10th century but over the following centuries gained features from a variety of architectural styles including a lavishly sculptured façade, a grand example of Italian Renaissance architecture in France.
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Le Mans to Le Havre Distance: 209km
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The journey north through the expansive countryside of Sarthe brings you to Saint-Cénerile-Gérei. It’s categorised as one of France’s ‘Plus Beaux Villages’, thanks to its medieval chapel, Romanesque church and the River Sarthe running through, all adorned by an abundance of flowers. The peaceful scenery was much loved by artists including Corot and Courbet as well as pre-Impressionist landscape painters. Another one for the must-see list is Le Bec-Hellouin in south-west of Rouen, where its 11th-century Abbey Notre-Dame du Bec is still home to an order of Benedictine monks. From there, it’s just over an hour’s drive north-west to Le Havre.
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Le Havre to Deauville
Seine, Deauville is a step back in time to the glamorous Belle Epoque.
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Deauville to Cabourg Distance: 25km
Stroll the famous boardwalk along Deauville’s beach, where the bannisters that separate each beach hut bear the names of A-list stars who have attended the town’s American Film Festival. Just five minutes from the beach, the new cultural centre Les Franciscaines is set in a former convent and brings together an extensive collection of works by renowned artist André Hambourg, as well as photography exhibitions and interactive displays. Further along the coast at Cabourg, the Villa du Temps Retrouvé (The Villa of Time Rediscovered) is a new visitor centre that celebrates the culture of the Belle Epoque, focussing on the early 20th century scribe Marcel Proust, who wrote some of his weighty tome in the nearby Grand Hôtel.
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Cabourg to Beuvron-en-Auge Distance: 15km
Normandy’s power to inspire continues to this day and during the 2020 lockdown, David
Hockney – who has lived in Normandy since 2018 – was so inspired by the apple blossom and richness of the countryside that he created a series of works that went on to become The Arrival of Spring exhibition at London’s Royal Academy. He is based near Beuvron-en-Auge, well known for its cider farms and orchards, as well as being another of Normandy’s ‘Plus Beaux Villages’. Hockney has also been inspired by the Bayeux Tapestry, which he first saw in 1967; he is now preparing to show his own over 80m ‘Bayeux-Tapestry-styled’ picture – depicting a year in Normandy – at Paris’ Musée de l’Orangerie from 13 October 2021 to 14 February 2022.
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Beuvron-en-Auge to Caen Distance: 36km
No visit to the Normandy coastline would be complete without learning more about D-Day. Just outside the village of Ver-sur-Mer, the newly revealed British Normandy Memorial stands overlooking the Gold Beach, one of the two beaches where British forces landed on 6 June 1944 and lists the names of more than 22,000 men and women under British command who lost their lives in the region as part of the Battle of Normandy. Elsewhere, museums and memorials tell of the intricate planning of the mission and its brave execution. From there, head to the ferry port at Caen to sail back ⊲ to Portsmouth with Brittany Ferries.
Distance: 43km
Le Havre is something of a Brutalist beauty thanks to its post-war architecture. The whole town was flattened by carpet bombs during the Second World War and so was entirely rebuilt to a design by Auguste Perret, and the architecture has since been listed by UNESCO. As well as the surprisingly spiritual St Joseph’s Church, there’s the retro Appartement Témoin Perret, a ‘show flat’ presented as it would have looked to its first residents in the 1950s, complete with Scandi furniture (that’s now back in style). Across the mouth of the River
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Winding past the windmills (clockwise from this) Ile de Noirmoutier boasts an impressive 23 windmills; the Café des Tribunaux overlooks bustling Dieppe Market; an atmospheric street in Rouen; Pont-l’Évêque
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its yacht-filled harbour to learn more about its centuries-old fishing heritage. From there, it’s on to Dieppe, an hour up the coast for more food-focussed treats. Its market was named the finest in France in 2020 and it abounds with local produce from cider to cheese including Normandy’s four most famous fromages: Camembert, Livarot, Pont-l’Évêque and Neufchâtel. Even on the days when the market isn’t in action, the town’s food shops are a joy to explore for treats to take home. Pause for a coffee at Café des Tribunaux, set in an 18th-century Norman building and a stopping point for many of Dieppe’s famous visitors.
AWL; B. Collier/Normandie Tourisme; Emmanuel Berthier; Vincent Rustuel / angelssea.com
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Cherbourg to Pont-l’Évêque Distance: 171km
Sail into Cherbourg with Brittany Ferries’ service from Poole or Portsmouth and start your trip around half-an-hour east at the village of Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue. The alluring fishing village was voted France’s favourite in 2019 (in the Village Préféré des Français TV show). Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue is famed for the oyster beds that lie between the mainland and Tatihou Island, which can be reached on foot at low tide or by a special amphibious vehicle when the water is high. Each August, the island hosts a folk music festival called Les Traversées de Tatihou. Tuck into the oysters at local eateries such as the beachside Le Goeland 1951 café on the other side of the bay at Pointe de Saire. From there, head 180km into the Pays d’Auge for another of Normandy’s gourmet offerings: calvados (a type of brandy made from apples).
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Pont-l’Évêque to Fécamp Distance: 75km
As well as being known for its eponymous cheese, the town of Pont-l’Évêque is home to the Calvados Experience at the Père Magloire distillery. This immersive visitor centre is a treat for all five senses and not only allows you to learn about the production of the
region’s celebrated apple brandy, complete with a tasting session, it also tells the story of the Normans, from their Viking origins to the present day. Meanwhile at Fécamp, on the Alabaster Coast, the neo-Gothic Palais Benedictine is where you’ll learn about the Benedictine liqueur that the eponymous palace was built to distil. Learn the story of the invention of the liqueur, enjoy a tasting bar and join in with cocktail making classes.
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Fécamp to Dieppe Distance: 64km
The seaside town of Fécamp is framed by its 90m white cliffs. Before leaving, stroll down to
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Dieppe to Craon
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Craon to Nantes
Distance: 372km
Follow the road south towards the Atlantic Loire, pausing for a pitstop in Rouen, which offers its own bounty of good food. Just outside the city, the bakery Aux Délices Normands beat off competition from 130 others to win the TV show La Meilleure Boulangerie de France. Also in Rouen is France’s oldest inn which dates from even before Joan of Arc met her fate in the square outside. La Couronne opened in 1345 and is now a sophisticated restaurant serving an enticing menu of classic French and local regional specialties under its ancient beams. From Rouen, travel some 200km south-west to discover the peaceful Mayenne countryside.
Distance: 101km
Start at La Ferme du Pressoir near Craon, a cider and fruit farm that has belonged to the same family for five generations. Among their specialities is ice cider made with natural cold, liqueurs and eaux-de-vies (a type of brandy that literally translates to ‘water of life’.) At the farm you can visit the cellars and learn more about their production. Continue on past Angers, where even the chateau has a vineyard on top of its ramparts, to Brissac⊲ Quincé, a town dominated by its elegant
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Nantes to Clisson Distance: 33km
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This almost 120km wine route from Nantes to Clisson runs between some excellent vineyards, giving you the chance to taste the region’s flagship wine Muscadet, as well as wines made with lesser-known grape varieties Melon de Bourgogne and Folle Blanche. From Nantes, drive through the landscape around the Sèvre Nantaise river. Stop for a picnic along the bank at Chaussée des Moines in Vertou, or at the port of La Haye-Fouassière. Then it’s on to Clisson, a town with a distinctly Italian vibe thanks to its Renaissance villas that are reminiscent of Tuscany.
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Clisson to Noirmoutier Distance: 100km
Around an hour-and-a-half’s drive west will land you on the island of Noirmoutier, just off the Vendée coast. The island is known for its seafood and gourmet potatoes – les bonnottes de Noirmoutier – which thrive in the mild climate, the salty air and the sandy earth, enriched by seaweed. Like Guérande on the border with Brittany and Olonne to
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the south on the Vendée coast, Noirmoutier is known for its salt production. Its salterns (salt pans) date as far back as the 5th century and some 100 salt-makers that still produce the mineral using traditional methods. Shellfish lovers should join in with pêche à pied (digging for shellfish) on the beaches at low tide. The various beaches each offer different types. Look for cockles, winkles and clams close to ‘Le Gois’, the causeway that links Noirmoutier to the mainland, or find pink shrimp, winkles, clams, crabs and cupped oysters at the other end of the island at Le Vieil and L’Herbaudière beaches.
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Noirmoutier to Vannes
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Vannes to Douarnenez
Distance: 176km
Stop off at Guérande on the way north to see its salt marshes where you can visit the Terre de Sel visitor centre and take a horse-drawn cart ride around the salt pans. Next, head towards the inland sea, the Gulf of Morbihan. Take a detour around the Rhuys peninsula, stopping at the Ferme Fromagère de Suscinio to taste its Tome de Rhuys cheese, made with Guérande salt, at the farm’s Le Pie Noire Café. Next, head half-an-hour north to the secluded village of Séné for a plate of fresh oysters at the beachside La Belle d’Ilur. Drive 20 minutes south to the town of Vannes for a meal at Empreinte, a restaurant that sources the ingredients (organic meat, raw milk and cheese and fresh fish, to name a few) for its menus from the bounteous region around it. In Sulniac, around 20 minutes away, the family-run Distillerie du Gorvello is the place to snap up their ciders, eaux-de-vies and cider vinegars.
Distance: 145km
There’s more cider to be found further west in the region known as Cornouaille (France’s own Cornwall), to the south-west of Finistère, where a cider route links different farms and distilleries. Visit the orchards, meet the
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chateau and home to the vineyard La Belle Etoile, which has also been in the same family for five generations. Tour the vineyards, see the cellars and taste the wines to learn more about the Anjou wine-growing region. From there, drive for an hour-and-a-half to Nantes, where you can stroll the old town to duck in and out of the speciality food shops.
Local life (clockwise from this) A plate of the local oysters at Cancale; a crepe dessert is ready at the Breizh Café, Saint-Malo; seaweed production in Roscoff; Le Grand Eléphant is part of Les Machines de l’île in Nantes, an art project by François Delaroziere and Pierre Orefice; working the salt fields in Guérande; wandering the 15th century ramparts of Ville Close de Concarneau
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producers and try the products, including the lesser known Pommeau de Bretagne, and eau de vie de cidre. Douarnenez, meanwhile, is famous for its sardine fishing industry and for being the birthplace of the Kouign-Amann, translating to ‘cake of butter’. The sweet treat has fans the world over and many boulangers adapt their recipes with apples, or the local speciality, blé noir (buckwheat). This nutty flour also forms the base of Brittany’s galettes, savoury pancakes served with everything from cheese and ham to seafood.
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Douarnenez to Roscoff Distance: 100km
On the north coast of Finistère, Roscoff is known for its pink onions, but a newer
industry has been making waves there since the ’90s. Algoplus is a company that has been farming seaweed for over 20 years, transforming the plants into unusual food products (including green sea beans and sea parsley) as well as cosmetics. Pay a visit to their shop on the harbourside at Roscoff and taste them for yourself.
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Roscoff to Rennes Distance: 212km
Heading east into the heart of Brittany, make a penultimate stop at the region’s capital, Rennes. Here, the ‘Bistronomy movement’ – fine gastronomy served in a more casual setting – is in full swing. Book into restaurants such as Bercail, le Globe, Bistro Les Darons, Café du Port or Le Tire Bouchon for great food served at the bar or in sight of the buzzing open kitchens. Also take time to explore Renne’s market in the Places des Lices, where some 300 sellers and 10,000 buyers flood to the streets. Seek out a stall selling the local speciality, galette-saucisse, a kind of hot dog where a sausage is wrapped in a buckwheat crepe.
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Rennes to Saint-Malo Distance: 88km
From Rennes, head 70km back to the coast to Cancale where you can learn how their famous oysters are grown on a trip around the
oyster beds with the guides from Ostreika. Sample the delicacy either at the chic L’Atelier de L’Huitre or the more rustic beachside oyster market where you’ll be swigging back some of Brittany’s finest catch in full sight of MontSaint-Michel on the horizon. Before hopping on a Brittany Ferry back to Portsmouth, head into Saint-Malo to stock up on Breton specialities. Be sure to buy butter from La Maison du Beurre Bordier on Rue de l’Orme, including traditional salted and demi-sel (half-salted) butter as well as flavours such as seaweed and Madagascan vanilla. Across the road, La Maison du Sarrasin sells buckwheat in myriad forms, from biscuits to beer, meaning you’ll be heading back from Saint-Malo to Portsmouth on Brittany Ferries with a long-lasting flavour of Western France. ⊲
brittanytourism.com & brittany-ferries.co.uk
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WESTERN FRANCE
VERSION
WHEN TO GO
REPRO OP
Peak times may bring summer heat but we recommend going off-season to avoid the crowds. September is still warm, and the most popular sites are less busy. In spring, the countryside is a riot of colour and the markets brim with the new season’s produce.
WHERE TO EAT BRITTANY
Le Sistrot in Quimper is dedicated to the discovery of cider, so you can pair the apple drink with fresh food at the restaurant. ££; lesistrot.com OEUF La Crêperie in Rennes, is a neocrêperie that revisits the classics of Breton gastronomy. Don’t miss its Sunday Brunch. ££; oeuf.bzh
SUBS
Bistrot du Bac in Sainte-Marine offers fresh, local seafood and views over the port. ££; trimen.fr/le-bistrot-du-bac
NORMANDY ART
La Couronne, Rouen, is France’s oldest restaurant and serves a menu of French classics. £££; lacouronne-rouen.co.uk L’Échoppe Gourmande is a friendly bistro in the village of Saint-Céneri-le-Gérei. ££; lechoppegourmande61.business.site
PRODUCTION
Le Goéland 1951 is a beachside café close to Saint-Vaast-la-Hougue. Order the oysters. £; facebook.com/legoeland1951
ATLANTIC LOIRE CLIENT
WHERE TO STAY
BRITTANY Hotel Sainte-Barbe, Le Conquet
At the far west of Finistère, this Brutalist behemoth has 34 modern rooms, with sea views, as well as an indoor pool and spa, a restaurant and a rooftop bar. hotelsaintebarbe.com
Le Magic Hall, Rennes
Converted from an arthouse cinema, this hotel offers 19 uniquely decorated rooms inspired by the world of arts and entertainment. lemagichall.com
Les Charmettes, Saint-Malo
Set in two 19th-century villas on SaintMalo’s sea front, the 16 bedrooms are each individually decorated and have either sea or garden views. hotel-les-charmettes.com
NORMANDY Hotel Saint-Delis, Honfleur
Once home of artist Henri de Saint-Délis, this luxury hotel has nine elegant rooms and is just a short stroll from Honfleur’s famous Vieux Bassin. hotel-saint-delis.fr
BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
Le Relais d’Horbé, near Bellême
This new hotel in the village of Perrière has seven rooms with chic décor, as well as a restaurant and a concept store. lerelaisdhorbe.fr
You Urban Home, Deauville
Just a 15-minute walk from Deauville’s famous beach, this new hotel has simple but spacious rooms with trendy décor. youaredeauville.com
Lulu Rouget is a stylish restaurant on the Ile de Nantes. £££; lulurouget.fr Guinguette de Port-Thibault in Angers is a bistro on the banks of the River Loire. ££; guinguettedeportthibault.fr La Godaille in Ile Noirmoutier offers seafood platters and oysters direct from the producers. £; lagodaille.com
ATLANTIC LOIRE L’Hermitage, La Baule
Set on La Baule’s legendary beach, the palatial L’Hermitage has 200 recently renovated rooms, bars, restaurants, a spa and swimming pool. hotelsbarriere.com/en/ la-baule/l-hermitage/hotel.html
Le Caillou Blanc, Ile d’Yeu
This fresh hotel offers sea views, a heated outdoor pool and Jacuzzi. Its 16 rooms sleep two to four. hotelcailloublanc.com
Les Insolites de JSK
This rural site in the Alpes Mancelles offers nature-surrounded tent, cabin, wigwam and glass-dome stays. insolites-jsk.fr
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WESTERN FRANCE FOOTNOTES
Discover Opener 216
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discover
REPRO OP SUBS
Elaborate architecture, a musical road-trip and the Philippines’ Spanish past – we find more to explore on these timely travels
ART PRODUCTION CLIENT
Double bill: Segovia & Salamanca 184 Hidden USA: Tennessee
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Indigenous cultures: Guna Yala
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Heritage: Masada, Israel
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Top 10 highlights: Innsbruck
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British break: Shropshire
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Off-grid: Vigan, Philippines
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View from above: Seattle
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First 24 hours: Charleston
Ancient archways Built in 1st century AD, the UNESCO-listed Roman aqueduct remains Segovia's defining landmark, but there's so much more to see in – and just beyond – this Spanish city; p184
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History
Salamanca is very much a walkable town, a place to amble leisurely while craning your neck to admire the architecture. Start at the cloistered Plaza Mayor before heading to the cathedrals: Salamanca has not one but two, adjoining each other and combining different styles. Also visit the 16th-century university, with its filigree facade, and the Casa Lis, an ornate Art Nouveau mansion with a fine collection of Art Nouveau and Art Deco exhibits.
Segovia is similarly a city to savour and its key sights are within easy walking distance of each other. The vast, towering, two-tiered Roman aqueduct dominates the city and from here it’s a gentle stroll to the part-Moorish, part-19th century turreted royal Alcázar palace, supposedly the inspiration for Walt Disney’s fairytale castle. For another piece of the jigsaw of Spanish history, look no further than the narrow alleys of the medieval Jewish quarter.
About a 90-minute drive west of Salamanca, close to the border with Portugal, you’ll find the Arribes del Duero National Park, a ravine-cut landscape ideal for walking or cycling. With lakes, hills and some of the deepest gorges in Spain, not to mention golden eagles, black swans and other exotic flora and fauna, there’s plenty to take in when you visit. An hour’s drive further north is the impressive Pozo de los Humos, a waterfall that is taller than Niagara Falls.
The Sierra de Guadarrama range between Madrid and Segovia has long been a favourite with walkers and skiers, especially Madrileños looking for some clean air. Easily reachable as a day-trip from Segovia, these dramatic mountains are filled with pine trees, high ridges and granite peaks, famously the backdrop for part of Hemingway’s For Whom the Bell Tolls. There are also three different-sized ski-resorts here: Puerto de Navacerrada, Cotos and Valdesquí.
This is meat country, with moreish acorn-fed jamón ibérico taking centre stage, alongside intense, dark morucha beef, wild boar, chorizo and black pudding. The streets around the Plaza Mayor are brimming with tapas bars and restaurants where you can sample these and other specialities. Also try the local hornazo – a latticed meat pie sold by the slab and filled with chorizo or ham and egg – as well as speciality mini doughnuts and sponge cakes.
If you’re a meat eater you won’t want to miss Segovia’s most famous dish, cochinillo (suckling pig). Cooked so tenderly that it’s almost falling off the bone, the pork is then theatrically carved for you at your table by the waiters. Other local specialities worth checking the menu for are wild mushrooms and smoky cantimpalo chorizo, served in all the restaurants and tapas bars around the Plaza Mayor and Paseo del Salon, or at the outdoor terraces by the aqueduct.
Stay at Hospes Palacio de San Esteban – just because you’re in a former 16th-century convent, you don’t have to sacrifice contemporary style. This five-star palacio, less than ten minutes’ walk from the main sights has an outdoor pool and views of the two cathedrals. Doubles from £76. www.hospes.com/en/palacio-san-esteban
The five-star Eurostar Convento Capuchinos, in Segovia’s Old Town, is a former monastery and a wonderful place to rest tired feet – relax amid the old cloisters and visit the spa, complete with indoor pool and Turkish baths. Doubles from £66. www.eurostarshotelcompany.com/EN/ eurostars-convento-capuchinos.html
Segovia ART PRODUCTION
Population: 52,057 Average max July temperature: 28°C Famous for: UNESCOlisted architecture, Roman aqueduct, Alcázar palace, local speciality cochinillo (roast suckling pig).
Need to know
CLIENT
A direct train between Salamanca and Segovia takes about an hour; double that time if you’re planning to drive.
How to get there
Madrid is the closest airport to both Salamanca and Segovia. British Airways (ba.com) flies direct from Heathrow. Flights take about 2.5 hours and prices start from around £37 one-way. Trains run regularly between Madrid and Segovia (from 1 hour) and Madrid and Salamanca (around 2 hours).
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Segovia
Sometimes described as ‘the most beautiful city in Spain’, Segovia has a lot to live up to, but it doesn’t disappoint.With its UNESCO-listed Old Town set against a dramatic mountain backdrop, Segovia has monuments aplenty, from a spectacular Roman aqueduct and Gothic cathedral to a medieval Jewish quarter and Moorish palace.With concerts in squares and art exhibitions in palacios, the city, around an hour north-west of Madrid, has long attracted artists and intellectuals.
Around town
Salamanca
Salamanca has been called Spain’s ‘Golden City’ and looking at its honey-toned sandstone spires rising by the banks of the River Tormes, it’s easy to see why. Just two-and-a-half hours north-west of Madrid, this medieval centre of learning, famous for its university, has a UNESCO-listed Old Town that boasts Gothic, Renaissance, Moorish and Baroque elements. With show-stopping cathedrals, grand plazas, and cafes and bars buzzing with students, it’s an eye-catching place to explore.
Surrounding nature
SUBS
Population: 144,825 Average max July temperature: 30°C Famous for: Medieval University, golden sandstone, UNESCO-listed Old Town, acorn-fed jamón ibérico.
Alamy
Salamanca
Food & drink
REPRO OP
These two walkable, UNESCO-listed cities in Castile and León put you on the very edge of wild Spain, says Eddi Fiegel
Where to stay
VERSION
Salamanca & Segovia
AT A GLANCE
Alamy
Spanish streets (clockwise from top left) Dusk falls over Segovia’s Calle Juan Bravo and the city’s 16th-century Gothic cathedral with its 90m-high belltower; looking out over the Tormes River, Salamanca’s New Cathedral combines the 16th-century Gothic style of the original with Baroque touches from its 18th-century postearthquake reconstruction; cafes buzz in Salamanca’s Plaza Mayor – the ideal place to try local jamón as well as jeta (roasted pork cheeks); the Alcázar of Segovia has been a palace, a prison, a college and now a military museum; (far left) a view over Salamanca, including the Iglesia de La Clerecía
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DISCOVER Spain
VERSION REPRO OP SUBS PRODUCTION
Find the rhythm of Shaanxi
CLIENT
A spotlight on Shaanxi Province’s ancient Chinese culture, starting with the fabled Hukou Drum Race...
O
nce the centre of Chinese civilisation due to its position right at the start of the Silk Road, Shaanxi Province occupies a vast area in north-central China. Travellers are understandably lured by its epic natural sights, such as the vast Loess Plateau as well as the Yellow River and its mighty Hukou Waterfall. But it’s the remnants of the ancient sites that can be found scattered across the region and the milleniaold culture that makes Shaanxi such a compelling place to visit. From the bone-shaking ferocity of the Hukou Drum Race to old folk tales told through shadow puppetry and opera, taking time to see Shaanxi’s traditional performances will help you to understand the history of the region through the eyes of the locals.
The Hukou Drum Race
Drumming strikes a crucial note in Shaanxi culture. According to legend, 186 September/October 2021
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Yu the Great – a pre-historic hero in China who succeeded in taming the vast Yellow River – was busy managing the floods, when a dragon created huge waves, threatening to ruin his work. The people of Hukou lined up along the riverbank, beating their drums in unison to frighten the dragon away and help Yu the Great catch it. The drumming has become fabled, still continuing to this day and was even declared an Intangible Cultural Heritage of Shaanxi in 2007. To watch a Hukou Drum performance take place, visitors to the region can travel to the Hukou Waterfall. A vast body of frothing yellow water that swells to 50m wide during flooding season, the waterfall is around a four-hour’s drive from the province’s capital, Xi’an. Spend some time hiking around the falls before lining up along the riverbank in preparation for the Hukou Drum Race. Watch and listen as over 100 performers dressed in white fur-trimmed tops with white towels wrapped round
their heads and bright red trousers, adorned in matching red ribbons, take to their waterfall-side stage. Some bang drums, others clash symbols and gongs, while the sound reverberates off the riverbank, ribbons fly, and martial artists perform – all to the backing track of the pounding cascade. The sound is deafening, the red-and-white sea of drummers mesmerising, and it’s easy to see why the dragon from the legend was so overwhelmed.
Shutterstock; Shaanxi Provincial Department of Culture and Tourism
ART
Chinese traditions (clockwise from this) Over 100 performers take part in a Hukou Drum Race; a ‘rock & roll’ style Huayin Laoqiang performance; shadow puppet shows have been performed in Shaanxi for over 2,000 years; Qin Opera is the oldest form of Chinese opera
Three more folk performances to discover in historic Shaanxi... 1 Qin opera
The Shaanxi Opera, also known as the Qin Opera, is a form of folk singing and dancing, traditionally performed by the Han ethnic group. At over 2,500 years old, it’s the oldest form of Chinese opera, telling stories of ancient myths and folk-tales. Many of these stories are still told today, with over 2,700 copies of the plays still in circulation. One of the most popular is the Orphan of Zhao. Often referred to as the Chinese Hamlet, it tells the story of an orphan discovering the truth of his father and seeking revenge in the aftermath of a massacre of his clan. The high-pitch coloratura singing, unique to Qin Opera, makes for a stirring watch. Top-tier Qin Opera artists have awed audiences with shows on some of the world’s most celebrated stages, such as at the Bolshoi Theatre and Royal Opera House. But, we think the art-form is best appreciated in the province it originated in. Try and see it in the Yisushe Theatre in Xi’an to watch it with the locals.
2 Shadow puppetry
Witnessing a shadow puppet show in Shaanxi will not only teach you about the region’s ancient stories but will also allow you to admire the artistic talents of the craftsmen who make the puppets, the quick-handed performers who bring them to life and the operatic singers and musicians that provide a soundtrack to the show. The shadow puppets are made from leather or paper, with craftsmen patiently cutting out intricate details to create the distinct shapes and facial expressions of the different characters. With the clever use of light and shadows, hidden performers move the puppets to act out tales of the heroes that have shaped Shaanxi’s history. Puppet shows in the region date back over 2,000 years and can still be seen across the region. Join a performance and watch traditional stories such as the War Between Chu & Han, Three Heroes Fighting Against Lu Bu and Judge Bao Settling Lawsuits unfold magically before your eyes.
Shutterstock; Shaanxi Provincial Department of Culture and Tourism
3 Huayin Laoqiang
Huayin Laoqiang is a specific type of shadow puppetry that evolved from storytelling in the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. The shows give an insight into various historical stories and traditional plays of China, such as the Prime Minister Fan Ju of Qin and the Xianglin Mirror. What sets the Huayin Laoqiang apart from other shadow puppet shows is the ‘rock and roll’ style of the music, with performers roaring and chanting the words to the songs with gusto, accompanied by high-tempo music played by an on-stage band. One of the best places to watch a Huayin Laoqiang performance is in Shuangquan Village where the art-form originated. Here, you can meet artist Zhang Ximin and join his class to learn the basics of Huayin Laoqiang and learn first-hand about the traditional arts and culture of the region, making for an authentic end to a revealing exploration of Shaanxi Province.
For more information, visit: facebook.com/visitshaanxi
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PROMOTIONAL FEATURE
HIDDEN USA VERSION
Tennessee
REPRO OP
Turn up the volume – this southern state is the place to listen to the spirit of America itself Words Aaron Millar
SUBS ART PRODUCTION
Alamy
CLIENT
BLACK YELLOW MAGENTA CYAN
I
EAST TENNESSEE
f America had a soundtrack, its name would be Tennessee. Music here isn’t something you just go to, like a concert or a show. It isn’t something you switch on and off like a radio. Music is a part of Tennessee’s soul. It’s woven into the hum of the streets, the cotton blowing off the fields. It’s borne from history and heartache. It is a living, breathing, evolving thing; a melody that catches in your ear and won’t let go. And although this state is the heartland of country music, it’s not all cowboy boots and Stetson hats. Rock ’n’ roll, blues and soul struck some of their first notes here; gospel, bluegrass and even rockabilly too. You can find all of it on the Tennessee Music Pathways, a 1,900km network of highways and dusty backroads that connect the state’s best music venues, museums, recording studios and shindigs on one epic driving tour – the road trip equivalent of the ultimate Americana playlist. You can pick it up and put it down wherever you like. It isn’t sheet music, all mapped out, it’s a key for you to jam with, any way you want.
Nashville and Memphis are the undisputed high notes of the Tennessee Music Pathways, but it’s worth branching out and exploring the eastern part of the state too.
Bristol
In 1998, Congress passed a resolution recognising Bristol as the ‘Birthplace of Country Music’ – recordings made in this town on the Tennessee/ Virginia border in the 1920s were the foundations of much of the music that followed. Learn more at the Birthplace of Country Music Museum. www.bristoltn.org
HIGHLIGHTS
Knoxville & Chattanooga
Arts meet outdoor adventure in these two cities on the Tennessee River. Both have strong music scenes, both have great climbing, hiking, cycling and watersports on the doorstep. Don’t miss a sunset river cruise. www.visitknoxville.com, visitchattanooga.com
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NASHVILLE
Nashville is known as ‘Music City, USA’ for good reason. Songs spill from every street corner, tunes tumble out of every cafe, bar and club. Music is inescapable. Nowhere is this more true than on Lower Broadway, Nashville’s ‘Honky Tonk Highway’, a four-block maelstrom of live music blaring out of every saloon window from 10am to 3am, seven days a week. It’s part-pub crawl, part-festival and all-out foot-stomping fun. This is where you’ll find Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge, four stages and three stories stacked like gravy and biscuits one on top of the other; Nudie’s, where an actual 1960s Cadillac hangs on the wall; and the Station Inn, a no-frills, no-fuss joint where lightning-fast bluegrass plays all night long. But what really gets you is the history. Nashville is the home of the Country Music Hall of Fame and The Grand Ole Opry, a not-to-be-missed country music variety show hosted at the Ryman Auditorium, first broadcast in 1925 and still going strong. It’s also home to the Music Row district, where many record labels, radio stations and studios are based, including RCA Studio B where the ‘Nashville sound’ was perfected by artists such as Willie Nelson, Waylon Jennings and Dolly Parton. If country music has royalty, this is where they’re crowned. But more than anything, Nashville is the home of the players: the musicians, singers and songwriters who come here in their thousands in the hope that some of that Music City magic might just rub off. ⊲
Great Smoky Mountains National Park
Part of the enormous Appalachian chain, the Smokies are ancient peaks weathered into a ripple of misty, forest-cloaked, biodiverse mountains. Scenic roads and hiking trails wind through the park. www.nps.gov/grsm
Dollywood
Don’t leave without a stop at this enormous theme park in Pigeon Forge (pictured below), complete with rollercoasters, waterslides and highenergy entertainment, and named after its owner, Miss Parton herself. www.dollywood.com Where the magic happens (from top) The birthplace for the ‘Nashville Sound’, RCA Studio B has seen the likes of Elvis Presley, Dolly Parton and Willie Nelson record here; live bluegrass at Bristol’s Country Music Mural; Tootsie’s Orchid Lounge is a fine spot for honky tonk; (left) the honky tonks light up Lower Broadway, Nashville
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DISCOVER Tennessee
OFF THE BEATEN TRACK You’ve hit the highlights, now take a few Music Pathways less travelled…
Sutton Ole Time Music Hour, Granville
This weekly bluegrass jam held in an 1880 country store in the small town of Granville, is like walking onto a film set: vintage 1950s posters, patchwork quilts, folks in denim dungarees walking around without a hint of irony. It starts each Saturday with a communal meal, served familystyle with grace, and finishes with fast, fiery bluegrass set that goes out live over the radio. Quirky, but pure southern charm.
Grave of Sonny Boy Williamson, Jackson
Deep in Jackson’s swamp brush backwoods, lies the grave of the original ‘Sonny Boy’ Williamson, grandfather of the blues harmonica and one of the most recorded blues artists of the 1930s and ’40s. It’s overgrown and there are no signs, but for a true fan of the blues, it’s a pilgrimage worth making. Before Sonny Boy, the harmonica was a backing instrument, but in his howling, wailing style it became the centrepiece of the blues and the foundation for the rock ’n’ roll that it would inspire.
Tina Turner Museum, Brownsville
Whether or not you’re a Tina fan, this tiny exhibition is worth a stop because it shows in painful detail where so much of America’s music came from. Housed in the tiny blacksonly one-room schoolhouse that the ‘Queen of Rock ’n’ Roll’ herself attended growing up in poor, rural Tennessee. The displays may be about Tina but between the lines is a much deeper story of the South, and how the legacy of slavery and poverty shaped and continues to influence American music to this day.
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MEMPHIS
Memphis is a melting pot. It was here that the jazz of New Orleans, the blues of the cotton fields and the country twang of rural America first fused to create something that no one had ever heard before: rock ’n’ roll. That sound, born out of the legendary Sun Studios – where Elvis, Carl Perkins and Jerry Lee Lewis made their marks, and which can still be toured to this day – travelled across the globe. As it did, it became one of the soundtracks of the civil rights movement. You can still feel that energy today. It’s tangible at the Memphis Rock ’n’ Soul Museum, which tells the story of the city through its songs; at the Stax Museum of American Soul Music, formerly the location of Stax Records, where artists like Otis Redding and Isaac Hayes first burst onto the scene; and at the National Civil Rights Museum, built around the exact spot where Martin Luther King was assassinated. But you can feel it strongest on Beale Street, a cornerstone of black arts and culture for more than 100 years. Music fills the air, from BB King’s Blues Club, where an All-Star Band shake the roof each night, to Mr Handy’s Blues Hall, a tiny old juke joint reminiscent of the clubs that have lined these streets since the emancipation. It doesn’t matter where you go, just wander, listen, dance, soak it in. Memphis isn’t always an easy place. There’s poverty, run-down areas, a bit of an edge. But that toughness also feeds its music and forms part of its soul.
GRACELAND
You can’t leave Memphis without a visit to the home of the King. Graceland is part of the city but a world unto itself. Inside it’s like a 1970s time-warp: an entire room covered in green shag carpet (walls included), a mirrored staircase, an indoor waterfall, everything chintzy and gold and as outrageous as Elvis’s hips. The museum across the street is filled with a selection of his 200 cars and thousands of stage outfits, including that infamous white onesie and cape. You can even walk through his private jet, the Lisa Marie, named after his daughter. But whatever you do, don’t leave without visiting the cafe for a grilled peanut butter and banana sandwich, Elvis’s favourite lunch.
DISCOVER Tennessee
BACKGROUND INFO Food
In Tennessee, good music and good food go together like notes on the same scale. In Nashville, check out Martin’s Bar-B-Que Joint, the home of West Tennessee’s legendary whole hog barbecue. In Memphis, the hottest table in town is actor Morgan Freeman’s high-end southern dining restaurant, Itta Bena, located right up the fire escape from BB King’s club (reserve well in advance). Wherever you go, get yourself some moon pie – a Tennessee classic: two graham crackers, coated in chocolate and stuffed with marshmallow.
Hotels
Noelle in Nashville (noelle-nashville.com) is a trendy design hotel in the heart of downtown with funky Art Deco styling and a speakeasy genuinely hidden in the basement (clue: check the maintenance cupboard on the ground floor); If you’re an Elvis fan, the sprawling Guest House Hotel at Graceland (guesthousegraceland.com) is hard to beat: Elvis films are shown at the in-house cinema, live concerts are held, and some suites have tiger skin print furnishings and TVs hanging perpendicularly over the bed. Plus, if you time your visit with the annual Ultimate Elvis Tribute Artist Weekend you might come away believing the King really is alive and well.
Tennessee Music Pathways
There are over 1,600km of options on the Tennessee Music Pathways, exploring the many musical genres linked to the state. Pick up a passport booklet from any Tennessee Welcome Center or attractions en route to collect stamps as you explore.
Alamy
Visiting the Volunteer State (clockwise from top) Opened in 1950 by Sam Phillips, Memphis’ Sun Studio changed popular music after 18-yearold Elvis Presley walked into its offices in August 1953; Graceland mansion, where the Elvis story ends in 1977; Elvis’ iconic jumpsuits, and other clothing and memorabilia at the museum at Graceland; Blind Mississippi Morris playing in one of Beale Street’s many night spots
For more information on the Tennessee Music Pathways, visit: tnvacation.com/ tennessee-music-pathways
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INDIGENOUS CULTURE
REPRO OP
Visit this tropical archipelago, home of the Guna Yala people, for a more culturally enriching take on ‘beach paradise’
Words Nick Boulos
SUBS
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ART PRODUCTION CLIENT
hen you think of tropical isles, the images that most often spring to mind are blue skies and white sands. Or maybe lavish overwater villas and infinity pools. Culture rarely gets a look in. But the San Blas Islands – a collection of almost 400 heavenly specks sprinkled along Panama’s Caribbean coast – do things differently. While the scenery is five-star, the amenities are rather more rustic. And what the archipelago lacks in glamour it makes up for in rare indigenous insight. “The San Blas islands comprise some of the most diverse, unique and spectacular natural places on earth,” guide Marco Gandásegui (anconexpeditions.com) explained. “Add to that the determined people who inhabit and protect this territory and you have something truly special.” Those people are the Kuna Yala or, as they identify themselves, the Guna Yala. Since the aftermath of a rebellion in 1925, sparked by the suppression of GunaYala culture, the province has been self-governing and is fiercely protective of its past. Only tribe members may live or own property within the Guna Yala Comarca – an area comprising the islands and a narrow strip of mainland – ensuring an authentic experience for those who visit.
The exact origins of the Guna Yala are unknown, but in the 16th century they were living in what’s now north Colombia; following the arrival of the Spanish, they travelled north to San Blas. The area is now home to around 50,000 Guna Yala spread across 49 inhabited islands. Guna communities are characterised by bamboo-thatched homes, their living quarters dominated by hammocks. “To us, hammocks represent the umbilical cord and a deep connection to our Godmother, who is the earth,” a Guna elder told me. There’s every chance you’ll be invited inside to see for yourself. One thing you’ll definitely see is Guna women wearing their distinctive dress: molas (colourful layered fabrics with patterned panels) and winis (beaded wraps) often placed around the shins and lower legs. Life here is slow, refreshingly so. “We don’t pay taxes and we don’t have electricity bills, so there’s no real need for money. The small amount that people do earn from tourism and selling coconuts to the Colombians goes towards buying sugar, clothes and material to make molas,” explained local guide Igua. And that’s perhaps as close to paradise as it’s possible to get.
Girl power The Guna Yala place women at the centre of society: they are the primary breadwinners and property owners – that property usually comprising bamboo-thatched huts (pictured above)
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San Blas Islands, Panama
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Six spots that will ground you in indigenous Guna Yala culture
1 Yandup Island Lodge
Owned by the delightful Alvarados, a Guna family from nearby Playón Chico, this lodge is arguably the best accommodation in all the land. There are two choices of cabins: overwater or sea-facing, all with mosquito nets, private bathrooms and 24-hour electricity. Best of all though, it offers some of the most unusual cultural tours including a visit to the local cemetery and performances of the traditional kammu burwi dance. (yandupisland.com)
2 Chichime Island
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One of the archipelago’s standout destinations, Chichime Island is located 45 minutes by boat from the mainland and is small enough to walk around in less than 20. Book one of the five solar-powered beach cabins at Ogob Nega – it’s not five-star luxury but the sensational beaches more than compensate for the shared bathrooms. (ogobnega.com)
3 Lemon Cays
Sail around these sandy cays on a traditional urbor (ur meaning
dugout canoe, bor meaning cloth). The Guna have used this mode of transport for generations; now, some are fibreglass and most have an outboard engine. An afternoon spent on the water, pausing to catch some naluginnid (red snapper) for lunch, is simply blissful.
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Gardi Sugdup (Cartí Sugtupo)
This is the place to go for a masterclass on Guna culture. Workshops here cover everything
from Guna music and traditional medicine to clothing. You’ll also have the opportunity to see how the most iconic elements of the Guna wardrobe are made, such as molas and winis.
5 Holandes Cays
Embrace your inner Robinson Crusoe with a day or two on your own private island within this clutch of cays. Charter a boat to take you to the outer rim of the islands, pick an uninhabited piece of paradise, set up camp and disconnect completely. Barter with locals on nearby islands for water, beer and other essentials.
Paradise plus (clockwise from below) The traditional geometric patterns of molas were once painted directly onto the body, but were transferred to fabric after Spanish colonisation; only 49 of the 400-orso islands are inhabited, and some of those have just a handful of residents, making it easy to play castaway
Nature Reserve 6 Nusagandi
A haven for birdwatchers, Nusagandi is located on the mainland, along a road that brings you to the coast directly on the continental divide between the Caribbean Sea and the Pacific Ocean. Here, bird species from both ridges congregate and thrive in a primeval rainforest laced with walking trails used by the Guna. Don’t miss Ibe Igar waterfall.
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WORLD HERITAGE
Masada
Looming over the Judaean Desert and the Dead Sea, Israel’s ruined rock-top fortress is a fascinating insight into the past
A drop to drink Masada’s highly sophisticated water system could collect enough water from one day’s rain to sustain 1,000 people over a period of two to three years, enabling this desert fortress to thrive
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icture the scene: an 8,000-strong Roman army, side – which they supported with beams before constructing equipped with shields, swords, catapults and a siege tower and wheeling it up the ramp to destroy the Jews’ arrows, marching towards a plateau in the middle protective wall with a battering ram and fire. of the Judaean Desert. Outnumbered, the 960 But the Jews didn’t go down without a fight and, while Jews living on top of the mountain have only rocks scholars’ estimates vary, it’s thought that it took the Romans to defend themselves – but the advanup to seven months to capture Masada. tage of elevation and a sophisticated Yet by the time the Romans set the “They’d drawn lots in Jews’ defensive wall on fire in AD food and water storage system. Who do you think won? 73, the Jews had chosen suicide over a grim game to After capturing Jerusalem in AD slavery – they’d drawn lots in a grim decide who would game to decide who would murder the 70, the Romans headed 52km south kill the majority” to Mount Masada, the site of the last majority before killing themselves. Only Jewish resistance to the expanding two women and five children survived, Roman Empire. Once there, while under attack from the by hiding in a water pipe. Their story was passed on to Jews above, the Romans built eight camps and a wall around Yosef ben Matityahu, a Jewish slave who defected to the the base of the 434m-high plateau, which rises from the Romans once they freed him. Later, under the name of Titus desert like a Hasidic Jew’s fur shtreimel hat. After surround- Flavius Josephus, he became a historian. ing the Jewish rebels, the Romans built a ramp from rocks While monks settled on Masada in the fifth century, and earth on the plateau’s western border – the most shallow the site was subsequently abandoned in the sixth century
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NEED TO KNOW
until its rediscovery in 1838 by two American researchers, Edward Robinson and Eli Smith. Fast forward to the 1960s, when the first archaeological digs took place and the plateau was designated a national park, attracting travellers. More arrived once a cable car was built in the 1970s, and again when the tableland was inscribed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2001. The archaeological excavations found the remains of the Romans’ camps, fortifications and a largely intact attack ramp at the foot of the mountain. But that’s not all. The seven-hectare plateau was first fortified around 100 BC, long before the arrival of the Romans. King Herod the Great developed the fortress during his reign between 37 BC and 4 BC, building walls and towers as well as aqueducts, cisterns and warehouses. He also constructed two palaces and bathhouses, which were set among opulent ornamental gardens on tiered terraces on the rock’s northern face. Other finds, from coins and pots to perfume bottles, were also unearthed.
Location: 52km south of Jerusalem, southern Israel Getting there: British Airways, easyJet, El Al and Virgin Atlantic fly direct to Tel Aviv from Luton, Heathrow and Stansted; flight time is around five hours. Getting around: Tourist Israel’s Masada Sunrise Tours leave from Tel Aviv and Jerusalem and include a sunrise climb, Ein Gedi Nature Reserve and the Dead Sea (touristisrael.com). When to go: April to May and September to October, when temperatures peak at around 25°C and rainfall is low. Accommodation: Pitch a tent at Campsite Masada West in Masada National Park or Tel Arad Campsite in Tel Arad National Park (parks.org.il). Ein Gedi Hotel (ein-gedi.co.il) has developed from a kibbutz (agricultural commune) into a spa hotel with a botanical garden. Ein Bokek’s resorts are a 15-minute bus ride away. Further information: Top 10 Israel and Petra (DK Eyewitness).
Today, you can take the cable car to the top to bypass the arduous hour-long climb up Snake Path, which winds up Masada’s north-east face. But climbing the mountain – best done before sunrise to avoid the worst of the heat – helps you imagine the challenge the Romans faced. When the sun peaks over the horizon, the arid land turns as gold as Jerusalem’s Dome of the Rock. At the summit, you can explore the extensive ruins of King Herod’s palace, which has a panorama of the Dead Sea and beyond, into Jordan. Later on, return to watch a 45-minute light show, Masada from Dusk to Dawn, which is projected at night on to the mountain’s western slope, close to the Romans’ ramp. Set to a soundtrack performed by a choir and an orchestra, it tells the story of Masada, bringing alive the Roman siege with a battle of arrows and flames.
Low to high Snake Path winds up for around 400m from the Dead Sea, the lowest place on earth
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Innsbruck is an Alpine delight – Tyrol’s capital is a two-time host for the Winter Olympics. But the city is an engaging visit in the greener seasons too, boasting the diverse architecture and cultural treasures befitting a one-time royal power centre, with a spectacular mountain backdrop to boot.
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sits on top of the building. The 18th century Baroque interior is the work of Munich artists, the Asam brothers. The local town houses, with their rich stucco ornaments, reliefs and frescoes, provide the backdrop to the cathedral.
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Originally built in the Gothic style, Innsbruck’s St James’ Cathedral was converted to Baroque in the early 18th century. Regarded as the most magnificent Baroque church in North Tyrol, it was severely damaged during the Second World War and rebuilt in the 1950s, when the church acquired the equestrian statue of St James that
2 Goldenes Dachl
The Golden Roof is one of Innsbruck’s most popular attractions. In about 1500, the tall oriel window, with its 2,657 gilded copper tiles, was added to this (former) residence of the Tyrolean rulers, creating a viewing box from which Emperor Maximilian I could observe life on Innsbruck’s main square. Highlights include the six coats of arms under the first-floor windows and the second-floor balustrade, decorated with reliefs. The building also contains the small Maximilianeum, a museum of the emperor’s life.
Inside Innsbruck (clockwise from above) The Schloss Ambras was a 16th century royal residence and is one of the oldest museums in the world; nightfalls over the colourful houses sat by the Inn River; the Ferdinandeum; the nearly 50m-high Bergisel Ski Jump structure; Goldenes Dachl; organ and ceiling of the St James Cathedral
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3 Altes Landhaus
This house, built in 1725-8 and today the seat of Tyrol’s provincial government, is one of Austria’s most arresting secular structures, with an attractive inner courtyard and colourful elevations. Though closed to the public, the most opulent room is the Rococo conference hall. As you ramble further along Maria-TheresienStrasse, you’ll find the Annasäule (St Anne’s Column) rising in front of the Neues Rathaus (new town hall).
4 Hofburg
In the 1460s, Archduke Sigismund embarked on a project to build a princely residence in Innsbruck. His Gothic castle, extended by Maximilian I, survived for several centuries and to this day the castle dungeons feature the original late-Gothic vaults. A major remodelling took place in 1755, under Maria Theresa, when plans for a Rococo south wing were prepared. The most beautiful of the state rooms on the second floor is the Riesenhalle (‘The Giants’ Hall’), embellished with white-and-gold stucco and a ceiling painting depicting the triumph of the House of Habsburg-Lothringen.
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One of the city’s loveliest streets, its main historic sights include the Rococo Helblinghaus (No 10), the Gothic old town hall and its adjacent Stadtturm (city tower), with a viewing terrace. But many of the other houses along the street also warrant a closer look. The four-storey Ottoburg (No 1) has four oriels stacked on top of each other and late-Gothic interior vaults. The Baroque façade of the Palais Claudiana, a former government building, hides some beautiful rooms including the ’Hall of Claudia de Medici’, with a late Renaissance coffered ceiling.
DK; Dreamstime; Shutterstock
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The choicest of Innsbruck’s Christmas markets is also held on this street.
Landesmuseum Ferdinandeum 6 Tiroler
Together with the former armoury of Maximilian I at Zeughausgasse (a 10minute walk away), this 19th-century building houses the collection of the Tiroler Landesmuseum (the Tyrol State Museum). The museum has galleries devoted to the natural environment, history, art and handicrafts, and it is also home to a library. Among its most precious exhibits are Gothic panel paintings, sculptures by Michael Pacher, and works by old German and Dutch masters – Lucas Cranach the Elder, Rembrandt, Pieter Bruegel the Younger and others. The museum also exhibits more recent Austrian art, including works by Klimt, Schiele and Kokoschka.
7 Hofkirche
The court church was built by Ferdinand I to house the cenotaph of his grandfather, Emperor Maximilian I. The cenotaph was designed by Maximilian himself and, although his plans were never fully realized, the ensuing structure, completed in 1584, ranks as a Renaissance masterpiece. It stands in the centre of the church, alongside a kneeling figure of the emperor, and is guarded by 28 largerthan-life bronze statues, while reliefs on the side panels depict scenes from the emperor’s life. Maximilian’s body, however, is not present; it rests in Wiener Neustadt in Lower Austria.
DK; Dreamstime; Shutterstock
8 Wilten
In the south-eastern suburb of the district of Wilten stands a grand basilica, built in 1751–6 on the foundations of a former chapel. The church was intended to provide a worthy setting for the picture of Our Lady Under the Four Columns, which miracles were attributed to. It was designed by the architect Franz de Paula Penz and the interior has been kept in the Rococo style, with the altarpiece using a gold, pink and yellow colour scheme. The nearby abbey has a church built in the 12th century, devoted to St Lawrence but according to legend, the abbey was built by the giant Haymon, in atonement for the murder of another giant, Thyrsus; both
are commemorated by statues. The abbey was rebuilt in Baroque style in the 17th century.
9 Schloss Ambras
On the south-eastern city limits, this castle was once the symbol of Tyrol’s power and glory. In the 12th century it was the seat of local rulers. The present 16th-century building consists of a lower castle with entrance gate and spacious courtyard, and an upper castle built on the site of an earlier structure. The two parts are connected by the early Renaissance Spanish Hall. Visitors can nose around the Rüstkammer (Arsenal), the Kunstund Wunderkammer (Chamber of Arts and Marvels), and the gallery with Habsburg portraits by artists such as Lucas Cranach and Diego Velázquez.
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This feature is adapted from the DK Eyewitness Austria travel guide, which contains illustrations, tour suggestions and a pull-out map. See dk.com
10 Bergisel
The hill of Bergisel, in the south of the city, is a popular place for weekend walks. Historically, this hill was the site of a battle fought by Andreas Hofer and his army of insurgent highlanders, who defeated the combined occupying forces of Bavaria and France in 1809; a monument to Hofer and the Kaiserjäger museum serve as reminders. Das Tirol Panorama, a museum on top of Bergisel, holds the Riesenrundgemälde, a panoramic painting of the Battle of Bergisel. It also hosts temporary exhibitions alongside its permanent collection of Tyrolean artefacts. If you’re visiting in January, one of the annual competitions in the prestigious Vierschanzentournee (Four Hills’ Ski-Jumping Tournament) is held at the vertiginous Bergiselschanze.
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The South Carolina city has always been high on Southern charm, but new efforts to recognise its slave heritage lets visitors get a more rounded view of its past, says Lynn Brown
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outh Carolina’s oldest city, Charleston was founded by the English in 1670 and named after then-king Charles II. Its location on the Atlantic, at the confluence of the Cooper, Wando and Ashley rivers, meant it was a centre for all kinds of trade, a fact evidenced by its opulent antebellum mansions and historic shopping districts. It’s a charming, welcoming place. But what’s often unseen is the fact much of the city’s beauty and prosperity was gained at the expense of enslaved people, many of whom came through the port here. Recently the city has made strides to more fully represent this, and the contributions of all of its residents, creating and promoting ventures such as Gullah Geechee Tours and the new International African American Museum. Now visitors can get a more nuanced view of Charleston’s history, and better understand what makes visiting such a vivid experience.
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Pre-COVID-19, BA flew direct from the UK to Charleston; hopefully this will resume. For now, connections are available via New York, Chicago and other hub cities in the USA.
Getting into town
The airport is 20km from downtown Charleston. CARTA Bus 11 runs to/from the airport ($2pp). There is also an airport shuttlebus ($15pp). Taxis/ Ubers are available outside the terminal; the drive takes 20 minutes.
Other ways to arrive
Amtrak trains (amtrak.com) call at Charleston two to five times a day, connecting to cities on the east coast. Greyhound buses (greyhound.com) serve Charleston daily; main destinations include Myrtle Beach and Columbia (within South Carolina) and Savannah and Atlanta in Georgia.
NEED TO KNOW Population: 135,257 Language: English Time zone: GMT-4 International dialling code: +1 Visas: Not required by UK nationals for stays of up to 90 days. An ESTA is required; apply no less than 72 hours before departure. Currency: US$, currently around $1.4 to the UK£. Health issues: Overheating is the main concern so stay hydrated. Pack bug spray – the chances of contracting mosquito-born illness is low but the chances of being bitten are high. Recommended guidebooks: Charleston & Savannah Pocket Guide (Lonely Planet, 2018) Smartphone app: Google Maps is reliable here. Climate: Charleston’s sub-tropical climate means mild winters (6°C-16°C) and hot, humid summers (23°C31°C.) June–November is hurricane season – plan carefully if visiting during this time and take out good travel insurance.
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Southern belle (clockwise from this image) Charleston‘s old French Quarter; pineapples – as in Waterfront Park’s fountain – represent hospitality; the Battery is a defensive seawall and promenade
At the airport
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FIRST DAY’S TOUR
Food is a key reason to visit Charleston, especially its ‘Lowcountry cooking,’ a sub-set of Southern cuisine, influenced by the coast – think pimento cheese or shrimp and grits. Start at Millers All Day (millersallday.com), which serves up Lowcountry breakfasts with a twist; try one of their legendary biscuit sandwiches. A carriage tour of the city’s historic neighbourhoods will give you time to digest while admiring the myriad architectural styles – from Colonial to Georgian to the classic Charleston single house. Palmetto Carriage Works (palmettocarriage.com) offers both private and public tours. Next, head to King Street for a stroll through downtown and some shopping opportunities: nearby Charleston City Market (thecharlestoncitymarket.com) has been running since 1807 and sells many local South Carolina goods; don’t miss the Gullah artisans who create handmade sweetgrass baskets. The Gullah are descendants of enslaved Africans who were brought to the USA through Charleston and lived in the Sea Islands that dot the coast. Learn about their journey at the Old Slave Mart Museum (oldslavemartmuseum.com). In 2022, the International African American Museum (africanamericancharleston.com) is set to open, giving even more insight into the city’s African American history. End the day at Husk (huskrestaurant.com). Set in a Queen Anne-style house, this upscale restaurant is credited with kick-starting New South cuisine with dishes like cornmeal fried catfish with squash, fennel and green tomatoes. For a nightcap try the Vintage Lounge (vintagechs.com), one of the state’s most beautiful bars, serving equally beautiful cocktails. Or, for a livelier time, visit Uptown Social (uptownsocialchs.com) on King Street for live music, dancing and late-night eats.
WHERE TO STAY
Top end: Though built in the 1990s, the interior of the Belmond Charleston Place emulates the city’s classically opulent Georgian style (think chandeliers, mahogany furnishings and sweeping staircases). Service is top-notch, rooms are smart and comfortable, and the central location downtown – right opposite the Market and a five-minute walk from Waterfront Park – is hard to beat. Doubles from around £310pn; belmond.com. Mid-range: Located in the heart of downtown, the brightly coloured, 41-room Andrew Pinckney Inn leans heavily on southern charm. Don’t miss the generous continental breakfast served in the upstairs solarium – the food is substantial and the view of the surrounding historic buildings and cobbled streets is a delight. Doubles from around £200pn; andrewpinckneyinn.com. Budget: If quirky is your style, check out the NotSo Hostel. A little outside the main downtown area, this adorable spot is not your typical hostel. There are quality private rooms (with and without bathrooms) as well as dorms and the community vibe is great for those travelling alone. Dorms from around £26pn, doubles from £56pn; notsohostel.com.
STAY OR GO
Plan to stay a few more days in Charleston. There’s plenty to fill your time, including several art museums, an aquarium and countless boat tours, including the Schooner Pride (charlestonharbortours.com) a replica 18th-century tallship that offers sunset tours. It’s also worth allowing enough time to explore further afield. The lush, white-sand isles off the South Carolina coast, known collectively as the Sea Islands, are a short drive away and perfect for those who love the outdoors or want to learn more about Gullah history and culture.
Ask a local
“As a Charlestonian, it always baffled me why tourists would visit in the humid summer. There’s nothing like a local beach bar when the air is crisper, and ordering a Painkiller [rum cocktail] by the outdoor fireplace. Also, few visitors know that the late fall-winter months that end in ‘r’ are the height of oyster season here. One of my favourite winter-time spots is Bowens Island, an iconic restaurant overlooking the water. They’ve been roasting oysters in the local way since 1946 and it’s delightful in winter. Go at sunset for the epic water views.” Lowry Beall, local
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witzerland without the avalanches and wolves.’ That was how the Shropshire Hills, and the market town of Church Stretton at its heart, were once promoted. The tagline was at least half right: as I strolled through nearby Little Stretton on a summer evening, the soundtrack was of baaing sheep rather than the howling of anything lupine. Quiet, rural, lowly populated Shropshire was a tourism ‘secret’ until recreation-seeking Victorians discovered it from the mid-19th century. Subsequently, the hills became a place to holiday, with Church Stretton turned into a spa resort where visitors could play croquet, take walks and enjoy the fresh country air. Today the Shropshire Hills are encompassed in a namesake Area of Outstanding National Beauty (AONB) that covers much of the county’s south. And while West Midlands lad AE Housman’s ‘blue remembered hills’ may not be as spectacular as the Swiss Alps, they do possess their own quiet beauty.
Not that it has always been peaceful here. Shropshire falls within the Welsh Marches, the historically turbulent border region with Wales; it also suffered invasions by the Vikings in the ninth and tenth centuries. It’s no surprise, then, that 32 of England’s 186 castles are found in the county. My first stop was at one of them, Stokesay, a fortified manor house built in the 14th century for wealthy wool merchant Laurence of Ludlow – at the time, one of the richest men in Britain. Indeed, Shropshire’s hardy and versatile sheep, prized for both their wool and their meat, have played an important part in the economy here over the centuries. While Ludlow, gateway to the Hills from the south, is a deservedly popular honeypot, visitors to the Shropshire Hills continue to come for the tranquillity, the walking and views, and the well-preserved villages and historic sites. “We love the peace and quiet and the lack of development; we try to come at least once a year,” said one couple I bumped into. Another pair told me they had finally moved to the area after many years of visiting.“People fall in love with this place.” ⊲
Ask a local
“Whether you walk or drive across, the views from the Long Mynd are very special and never get boring. Also, make time to visit Shrewsbury – it doesn’t get the publicity it deserves. Take the boat trip through the town.” Steve Ledsham, Shire and Carriage Horses
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There’s something alluring about the quiet, rural, myth-laced and castle-dotted ‘Little Switzerland’ of the landlocked – and overlooked – West Midlands. Lyn Hughes gets her boots on
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Long views (clockwise from top) Sheep on Caer Caradoc overlook Church Stretton and the Long Mynd; Wenlock Priory once attracted pilgrims from all over Europe; Little Stretton's unique timber church has a thatched roof; walking the Long Mynd
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Stretch your legs on the Long Mynd. There are numerous ways to access this rolling upland heath but you could start at wildlife-rich Carding Mill Valley (nationaltrust.org) and take one of the many trails to the Long Mynd’s high points. Alternatively, cheat by driving up via the singletrack road, parking and walking from there; a shuttlebus also travels across the plateau in peak season. You’ll be rewarded with views west to Wales and east to the Wrekin, Shropshire’s volcano-shaped hill. Sheep and ponies graze among the heather and skylarks sing. Refuel at the Bridges Pub in Ratlinghope (facebook.com/Thebridgespub) before heading to the Stiperstones for more far-reaching views. Comprised of quartzite formed 480 million years ago, this rocky ridge is rich in myths and legends. Look out for witches. After all this exploring you’ll be ready for dinner. Try a traditional pub such as the Ragleth Inn (theraglethinn.co.uk) or Green Dragon (greendragonlittlestretton.co.uk) in Little Stretton. While there, admire the unusual thatched mock-Tudor church.
DAY 2
Explore the south-west of the county, visiting tiny Clun and its ruined castle. Nearby Bishop’s Castle was founded by Norman bishops and the town is laid out in medieval style. It’s also home to two breweries, including the Three Tuns (threetunsbrewery.co.uk), established in 1642 and is the oldest working brewery in Britain. Alternatively, drive north-east, following Wenlock Edge, a limestone escarpment with views and trails. The medieval market town of Much Wenlock’s (visitmuchwenlock.co.uk) claim to fame is that, having launched its own Games in the mid-19th century, it’s heralded as the inspiration for the modern-day Olympics. After a pub lunch explore the ruins of Wenlock Priory. The first monastery was founded here in AD680, led at one point by St Milburga; the discovery of her relics in around 1100 brought new prosperity and pilgrims from around Europe. Around 10km further north-east is UNESCOlisted Ironbridge (ironbridge.org.uk), home to the world’s first cast-iron bridge. It is the place to learn about the industrial revolution – there are ten museums clustered here.
Getting there: The Shropshire Hills lie between Shrewsbury (to the north) and Ludlow (to the south), which are connected by the A49. Church Stretton and Craven Arms are on both the Welsh Marches and Heart of Wales Line railways. On weekends in season, shuttlebuses run between Carding Mill Valley over the Long Mynd to the Stiperstones. Stay at: Mynd House B&B in Little Stretton is friendly and knowledgeable, serves good breakfasts and is located an easy walk to two good pubs (myndhouse.co.uk). Victoria House is a beautifully furnished and characterful B&B in the heart of Church Stretton (victoriahouse-shropshire.co.uk). Further info: Slow Travel Shropshire (Bradt, 2020) is recommended. visitshropshirehills.co.uk; shropshirehillsaonb.co.uk
produce. Not only is Ludlow a handsome town with a looming castle, it’s a delicious foodie hub, with a renowned annual food festival and some excellent restaurants, shops and producers. If self-catering, stock up at Ludlow Farmshop. www.foodfestival.co.uk; ludlowfarmshop.co.uk.
WALK all over the
place. Whether you’re a seasoned hillwalker or just want a gentle ramble, this is a place to discover on foot. The Shropshire Way is a 290km figure-of-eight trail through some of the county’s best countryside and can be walked in sections. There are also many short, circular walks. shropshireway.org.uk
WALLOW in history.
Ruined castles, hill forts, heritage churches, industrial revolution history, preserved medieval buildings – you’ll find them all here. And you’ll have the space and peace to enjoy them. You might want to consider English Heritage membership. english-heritage.org.uk
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a shire horse. Whether you’re used to handling horses or not, a hands-on experience with Shire and Carriage Horses is a great day out. Steve Ledsham makes an entertaining and informative host as he takes you through harnessing, long-reining and driving the handsome animals. shireandcarriagehorses.co.uk
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Shropshire scenery The Wrekin hill; (right) The House on Crutches Museum, Bishop’s Castle
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With architecture more akin to that of Latin America or Spain and a centuries-old heritage of international trade, UNESCO-listed Vigan might just be the most surprising city in the Philippines Words Mark Stratton
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Vigan, The Philippines
Back in time
Crisologo St (left) was also called Kasanglayan, or ‘Place of the Chinese’, as it was a hub for foreign traders; horse-drawn kalesa were the principal form of transport in the colonial era
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t’s perfectly likely any traveller that has visited Latin America will have encountered Spanish colonial heritage, perhaps in Cartagena in Colombia or Quito in Ecuador. Because ever since the era of the conquistadores, the Spanish relished leaving their architectural mark on their overseas possessions, artistic flourishes that captured the grandiose pomp and power of imperial Madrid. Therefore it shouldn’t be surprising that this predilection for architectural aggrandisement prevails in the Philippines. Under the rule of King Philip II, the Spanish began their colonisation of this sprawling archipelago in 1565 and would not relinquish it until surrender in the SpanishAmerican war in 1898. Yet while traces of their rule might be expected in today’s capital, Manila, the most complete and beautiful exposition of this era is actually to be found in the remote far north of Luzon Island in Vigan, a small city redesigned in their own image by the Spanish from the 16th century onwards. An extension of the Silk Road, Vigan was flourishing long before the Spaniards had invented long-distance galleons. Prior to Juan de Salcedo seizing the city in 1572, it was a trading outpost sought by Chinese merchants who brought their
silks to trade for the likes of indigo, gold and a highly prized (and still woven) fabric known as abel. When the Spanish took the city, they named it Villa Fernandina de Vigan in honour of King Philipp II’s late infant son. Located in Ilocos Sur province, Vigan is easily missed by travellers because it’s a little off-thebeaten track for those tight on time. The World Heritage-listed rice terraces of Banaue, 250km to the south-east, are typically as far north as many visitors will venture. With no flights, and requiring a longish bus journey to reach, Vigan may feel like a bit of a schlep. However, it’s thoroughly worth the effort. Certainly Vigan impressed UNESCO enough to invest it with World Heritage status in 1999. There were two principal reasons Vigan earned this inscription. First, it remains one of the few intact European trading cities in South-East Asia; its architectural integrity has survived sporadic upheavals by the local Bigueno population against Spain’s imposed rule and escaped excessive bombing during the Second World War – a fate that befell Manila. Second, it characterises a unique fusion of Spanish and Asian design.This is reflected in the name of the river running through the city, the Mestizo (meaning ‘half-blood’ or ⊲
17.5705° N, 120.3873° E
NEED TO KNOW International dialling code: +63 Currency: Philippine peso (PHP), currently around 69 PHP to the UK£. Getting there: From Manilla there are two options for onwards travel to Vigan. Several bus companies offer inexpensive fares; an overnight journey from Manilla takes around nine hours. Or fly: with no flights currently to its own airport, the nearest is Laoag, two-hours away. Getting around: Vigan’s centre is easy to explore on foot even if the traffic feels chaotic at times. Other options include kalesa (horse-drawn carriages), tricycles, taxis, jazzed-up jeepneys and minivans. Festivals: Processional saints’ days in the Philippines are always lively, not least the Vigan Town Fiesta, which is dedicated to St Paul the apostle and held on 25 January. St Paul shares his limelight with a sausage: the local longganisa has its own festival, celebrated around 16-27 January (dates vary each year). Late October ushers in the vibrant Raniag Twilight Festival, a quasireligious affair featuring dancing, illuminated floats and parades. Further information: www.vigancity.gov.ph
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(clockwise from top left) St Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral was built to withstand earthquakes; Cafe Leona is a popular spot; antique furniture dots the cobble-stoned streets; the making of burnay ceramicware is done by hand, using a pottery wheel and kiln
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Churches, cafes, crafts
‘mixed’) – a river that was an important trade corridor, providing access to the South China Sea. What remains for visitors to enjoy today is a template of Spanish design that encapsulates elegant plazas, churches and convents, wealthy mercantile houses and cobbled streets that all retain details influenced by Chinese-Ilocano culture. It is made for exploring on foot. Some of the city’s most attractive streets of predominately 18th- and 19th-centur y buildings are pedestrianised, while navigation is made easy by the grid-plan layout. The richest agglomeration of heritage architecture huddles around the two most historic plazas, Burgos and Salcedo; these are found below the confluence of the Mestizo and Govantes rivers, which make for a pleasant sunset cruise. The alleys also echo with the clip-clopping hooves of horse-drawn carriages called kalesa – they offer rides, though try to avoid them as concerns remain over the welfare of the horses. An excellent landmark is St Paul’s Metropolitan Cathedral, an early 19th-century reincarnation of a church built by the Augustinians in 1574; inside is the typical bombast of Baroque design. It lacks the finery of the nearby Archbishop’s Palace, finished in 1783, and which possesses a colourful museum of all things ecclesiastical. On the subject of museums, do seek out a nearby one, on Reyes Street, dedicated to the life of Vigan-born Padre José Burgos, a revolutionary Filipino Catholic priest who called for reform. He was unjustly tried by the Spanish and taken to Manila in 1872, where he was garrotted.
Elsewhere in Vigan, a pleasing uniformity of design remains, notably ancestral houses with thick walls, weighty doors and red-tiled or corrugatedaluminium roofs. Look out for vernacular flourishes such as delightful capiz-shell sliding windows, a cheaper substitute for glass. Most pleasant of all is Crisologo Street. Free of traffic, it’s a lively cobblestone thoroughfare with classical townhouses and abundant cafes and bars, that can be ducked into during the fierce heat of the day. This is Vigan’s tourist hotspot and commerce here remains alive and well, with numerous souvenir shops, mostly selling tat. However, there are some lovely keepsakes to be found, not least Vigan’s renowned woven fabric, abel ilocano, as well as a speciality ceramicware called burnay, handsome narrow-necked storage jars that will certainly require a larger suitcase to transport home. Many of the heritage hotels and guesthouses are located centrally, and provide easy access to the fairly sedate nightlife offered in this conservative town. Sunset brings a measure of cool – albeit a minimal reduction to the clinging humidity – so head out at dusk onto the atmospherically lamp-lit streets to seek a cold drink and typical Ilocano delicacies including longganisa sausage, sinanglaw (soupy beef brisket) and orangecoloured empanadas. Cafe Leona, on Crisologo Street, is a highly popular place for food. Before the evening ends, drift back to Plaza Burgos to enjoy a dazzlingly kitsch display of illuminated fountains.
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Stay here... Living museum Hotel Luna Purporting to be the only museum hotel in the Philippines, this quirky and affordable boutique retreat in the city centre has rooms arranged around an atrium with a swimming pool as well as art and sculptures scattered throughout. Luna St; hotelluna.ph
Old-world charm Hotel Ciudad Fernandina This classic property dates back to 1758 and has rooms for all budgets, from executive suites to dorm beds. There are lots of architectural touches from the past, plus a pleasant place to dine inside called St Martha’s Café. Plaridel St; ciudadfernandinavigan. com.ph
A-list abode Villa Angela Heritage House This ornate 1870s mansion, set away from the chaos of downtown, is a blast from the colonial past, with four-poster beds, tiled floors, wooden beams and antiques. Fun fact: Tom Cruise once stayed here. Quirino Boulevard; facebook.com/VillaAngela
4 TOP THINGS TO DO Stroll…
Take a walk down Vigan’s liveliest and most historic street, pedestrianised Calle Crisologo. Enjoy and savour the street’s appealing blend of classical architecture, café-bars, souvenir shops and museums.
Watch… It’s possible
to visit family looms to see weavers at work, creating hand-woven abel iloco, the bright, naturally dyed cotton textile particular to the city. The cloth may be fashioned into table runners and scarves, available to buy locally.
Eat… There’s definitely
nothing plant-based about Vigan longganisa, the city’s much-loved speciality sausage. This hearty banger is made with pork, brown sugar, garlic, onions, bay leaves, soy sauce, vinegar, black pepper and salt.
Swim… Take a dip in
the warm South China Sea from gorgeous black-sand Mindoro Beach, a short journey by bicycle from Vigan’s historic centre. Sip a cool drink and enjoy panoramic sunsets.
WANDERLUST RECOMMENDS An informative clip of abel iloco cloth weaving https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=3VnEZz0aVjY This promotional video will whet the appetite https://www.youtube.com/ watch?v=0mWU-yOAz3U
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Seattle’s skyline is instantly recognisable to viewers from around the globe thanks to the many film and TV productions shot in this Pacific Northwest city, from Sleepless in Seattle to Grey’s Anatomy. It’s also the home of Starbucks, Amazon and Microsoft. There is a special spot that reveals the city in all its glory: Kerry Park, a small green space located on the south side of Queen Anne Hill, overlooking downtown Seattle. It’s a stiff walk up from lower Queen Anne – count on half an hour, includ-
ing stops to admire some of the affluent neighbourhood’s beautiful homes. Three of Seattle’s most iconic sites can be admired from Kerry Park: the 1960s sci-fi-esque Space Needle – easily the most distinctive landmark in town; the deep-blue waters of Elliott Bay; and, on a clear day (with a little luck), the snow-capped cone of 4,392m Mount Rainier looming in the distance. For a picture-postcard view of the ‘Emerald City’, Kerry Park should not be missed.
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The view from Kerry Park, Seattle, Washington, USA
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