June 2021 Online Edition New Club night Venue And day!! Please see inside
Issue No 253
June/July 2021
W I R R A L A D VA N C E D M O TO R C Y C L I S T S Group Council 2019-2020 IAM Group 5115 Web Site
http://www.w-a-m.co.uk
Chairman
Ken Smith
chairman@w-a-m.co.uk
Vice Chairman
Rob Tutchings
vicechairman@w-a-m.co.uk
Honorary Treasurer & Gift Aid
John Temple
treasurer@w-a-m.co.uk giftaid@w-a-m.co.uk
Membership
Andy Poustie
membership@w-a-m.co.uk
Associate Coordinator
Pat Goodison
associatecoordinator@w-a-m.co.uk
Trainee Observer Coordinator
Steve Hunter
TOC@w-a-m.co.uk
Chief Observer
Derek Jeffries
chiefobserver@w-a-m.co.uk
Honorary Secretary
Rob Cooper
secretary@w-a-m.co.uk
Minute Secretary
Mike Round
minutes@w-a-m.co.uk
Events Organiser
Chris Livett
events@w-a-m.co.uk
Newsletter Editor
Peter Lovatt
newsletter@w-a-m.co.uk
Data Manager
Chris Livett
DataManager@w-a-m.co.uk
Social Media
Steve Lord
SocialMedia@w-a-m.co.uk
Group Shop
Martin Titley 0151 632 3570
groupshop@w-a-m.co.uk
Rob Tutchings
rideouts@w-a-m.co.uk
Ride Out & Bike Safe Coordinator Other Council members
Dave Spotswood, Steve Molyneux, Nina Jeffries, Pete Montgomery, Mike Hurst, Dave Rees
MAGAZINE Editor:
Peter Lovatt
Duplication: CS Digital Wallasey 2 Distribution: The Post Office!
Welcome to the next instalment of the WAM Newsletter - The June 2021 edition. As I type this edition up, Derek's Scotland trip is just a little over a week away. With this in mind, I’ve put in some articles about touring preparation. The drop off system in Group Rides, and about Overtaking. Hopefully with about 30 Plus members going it’s going to be a very interesting weekend! The first ARC course is coming to its conclusion too, so we should be in line for some test passes. Thanks for all the Observers and especially Pat for all the time and effort out in to this. And whilst mentioning Observers, Two of our observers had their national observer assessments at the end of May and both passed so I’m sure you’d also like to add your congratulations to Mike Hurst and Andy Churchill. Very well done as it’s quite achievement and takes a lot of work. And finally before signing off until next time, WAM have a new club night venue and a new Club night day. So please make a note in your diary…. We will be having our first club night on WEDNESDAY 9th June at the Wirral Rugby Club, at Clatterbridge Location Here Club Venue Please note Covid rules Though we are allowed indoor meetings there are some restrictions and rules we have to adhere to.
Social distancing which will limit numbers indoors to about 40. Table service only 3. No communal food, buffets. To get round this I have arranged that there will be a selection of food on each table. 4. Masks to be worn when not sitting at the table.
Pete
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IAM RoadSmart Polo Shirts
We can now take orders for polo shirts. These are a charcoal shirt showing the new logo plus two lines of text Wirral Advanced Motorcyclists Your Name Size Guide: S: 36/38" M: 40" L: 42" XL: 44" XXL: 46/48" Female: 10, 12, 14, 16, 18 £20 each - Nina Jeffries will take your payment at the group social evenings (second Tuesday of every month).
You may see some WAM members wearing them at club nights
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How to prepare for a summer tour What do I need? The absolute minimum is a bike, some money for fuel and you. No, seriously. If you want scenery or interesting places to go on the cheap then the UK has it all. If you travel abroad a passport and documents are necessary. It’s only when you want those added luxuries that touring starts to become an expense. We’re talking about the cost of a tent to sleep in, or (if you’re splashing out) a B&B or hotel.
Is that really all? Basic toiletries are next on the list of highly desirables, so is some clean clothing and comfortable clothes that you can wear when not riding. So some means of carrying such stuff is a must. A large rucksack will suffice, but is uncomfortable over distance. Full-on touring bikes have removable hard luggage (like suitcases), but for general use a set of soft luggage throw-over bags and a tailpack (straps to the top of the bike’s tailpiece/seat) is cheaper. A magnetic tank bag is ideal for carrying money, phone, maps and documents, as it’s easier to remove and carry at fuel/wee stops. Don’t I need a big bike? No. A large capacity bike is ideal because the engine will be relatively unstressed carrying a pillion and luggage. But as a rule any bike will do, even a 50cc slowped as long as motorways aren’t part of your route.
Is there a golden rule for touring? Several. The most important, if you’re not a high-mileage regular, is not to overdo it. All-day riding is very tiring, especially when combined with tricky navigation or challenging mountain terrain. So avoid rides of more than a couple of hundred miles for the first few days. Overseas, the concentration needed to ride safely is more demanding. Check for tiredness and stop regularly for food and fluids.
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1. Avoid last minute panics on departure day by rehearsing your packing before you leave – making sure your luggage will carry all the kit you’re taking. If you’re using soft luggage, take it for a test ride to make sure it’s secure and doesn’t foul your steering or exhausts. 2. Don’t forget security. As at home, a big lock and chain is best. You may find lodgings with secure parking, but there will be times you’ll leave the bike somewhere vulnerable. With a tail-pack, put heavy security at the bottom and avoid placing chains in a throw-over pannier. Many lock-makers sell bags which keep the lock safe and accessible. 3. Make sure the bike’s consumables have enough life left to last the course (brake pads, chain, sprockets and tyres) and you’re not going to bust your service schedule. Riding at high speed and romping up and down mountains wears things out faster. Waiting lists at workshops are long at this time of the year, so get booked in now. 4. If you’re carrying a pillion, then factor them into the plan. You may be able to clock 800 miles a day, but for how long can they cling to your back like a baby chimp? Will their kit fit on the bike? What do they want to do? There’s no joy to be had in lugging whinging excess weight around, so get issues sorted before they arise.
5. Slap a tubeless repair kit under the seat. You may be covered by a recovery scheme, but a repair kit still lets you carry on riding – which can mean the difference between waiting on an isolated roadside or the hotel bar while the bloke from the garage arrives. 6. Carry a spare key and the correct documents if venturing abroad (see www.bmf.co.uk/touring/pages/touring-tips for the ones you need). Make sure you have the numbers you might need to report loss or theft, of cards or, God forbid, the bike. Also stash a couple of regional bank notes for similar emergencies. 7. Bits and bobs can be tour-savers. Bungee straps sort out luggage nightmares, gaffer tape holds cracked fairings, ripped clothing and worn out foot-sliding boots together. Even if you’ve got hard cases, carry bin liners for emergency waterproofing and to store separate sweaty kit. Don’t forget that clear visor in case you’re caught out late at night. 8. Pack as light as you can get away with and remember you’ll be wearing bike kit 6
in the daytime, so you won’t need much. Buy lightweight trousers that unzip to shorts (which can be used on the beach, as modelled above) and which dry overnight if you wash them. Sandals pack flatter than trainers and don’t need socks. 9. If you’re mainly going to be wearing leathers, then get some lightweight waterproofs. But, staying dry is only half the story: wind/ waterproof clothing, especially a one-piece oversuit, is worth two layers if the temperature drops, and it takes up much less space.
10. Consider a change of rubber – what’s the point in getting to the hills with squared-off tyres? Save cash by swapping your Corsa Extreme Ballistics for sports touring tyres until you get home. Whatever you go for, make sure pressures are bangon or you’ll have fuel consumption, stability or wear issues. 11. Get hold of detailed maps and scan them to find the sauciest little minxes of twistiness you can find heading in the direction of your chosen destination. Better still, use the maps to set a rough agenda so you don’t flog out relentless motorway miles, but enjoy the ride. Or – if you’ve got the dosh – invest in a GPS system to guide you. 12. Don’t over-plan; you can’t account for everything. The weather changes, tyres deflate, Dai tells you Llannwantogo is left when it’s straight ahead. Pushing to reach a predetermined destination puts pressure on when you might just want to relax and enjoy. Start looking for somewhere to stay well before sunset and all will be well...
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Getting past a slower vehicle - Overtaking
Overtaking is r egar ded as one of the most hazar dous manoeuvr es for a r ider , but often it is not planned well enough to ensure maximum safety. When you commit to an overtake you are making a decision to pass the vehicle(s) ahead. In order to get there safely, consider the points below which should make the planning easier. It is important to make your choice to overtake at the safest and earliest opportunity. To do this you need to anticipate where an opportunity is likely to present itself and prepare the motorcycle so that you are in the right position with the correct speed and gear selected to commit at the right time. Prepare the motorcycle so that you are close enough to make the overtake at the earliest moment, but not too close to the vehicle in front. Make sure that you have the appropriate gear engaged that will allow you the maximum acceleration if required. When you do apply acceleration, deliver the power smoothly to help maintain the stability of the motorcycle when completing the manoeuvre. Avoid aggressive use of the throttle or brakes when returning to your own lane. Good planning and preparation will ensure a smooth and safe delivery of the task. If you are having problems sorting out the planning and delivery of this skill then simply find a trainer who can spend a little time explaining and demonstrating the techniques required. It is important to get this skill right and leave nothing to chance
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Points to consider
Speed and performance of your motorcycle Most modern motorcycles have outstanding performance; even some of the
smaller bikes have excellent acceleration. Riders often make the mistake of getting too close to the vehicle in front, which closes down available views. So stay back where you can see. Speed and performance of the vehicle you are about to overtake Look at the vehicle and consider its performance against that of your motorcycle, bearing in mind that most family saloons these days have surprisingly good acceleration, but not as good as most motorcycles. The distance you have available to overtake and regain the nearside safely If the available road looks a little short then don’t risk it. Make a sound judgement about whether you have enough available room, if in doubt, DON’T. A safer opportunity will present itself. The speed and performance of the oncoming traffic Again, think about the performance of most modern cars. The speed of oncoming traffic can be difficult to assess accurately at times, so if in doubt, DON’T and wait for the next opportunity. Speed and performance of oncoming vehicles as yet unseen This is more tricky. So many riders look at the road ahead and if its clear they do not consider the fast oncoming car just around the corner. ALWAYS assume that there is one just out of your view and consider then if the available road is sufficient to make the manoeuvre safely. If in doubt, DON’T.
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The Drop Off System The “Drop Off” System of group riding ensures progress while allowing the group to stay together even though there may be quite some distance between the Ride Leader and the Back Marker. The whole idea behind the drop off system is to provide a series of moveable signposts for all the riders in the group to follow, irrespective of any gaps which have occurred on the ride so that riders don’t have to “keep up” with the rider in front.
It acknowledges the fact that the trip can get strung out over a long distance due to a variety of reasons – e.g. road works, traffic lights, give way junctions, roundabouts. Also, not all riders will have access to a map case or Sat Nav on their bike and might be on unfamiliar roads. It allows the less experienced rider to ride at their own pace without worrying about keeping up, getting lost, or which way to go. Understanding the system is important, as every rider needs to do their part to avoid anyone getting lost.
How it works Each group will have a designated ‘Ride Leader’ and a ‘Back Marker’. The positions of these two riders will not change throughout the run. They will be introduced to all the riders in the group at the start of the outing when the leader briefs the group on the ride. Whenever or wherever there is a change of direction at junctions, and all roundabouts, the rider, (now referred to as “Marker”), immediately behind the leader will indicate the route taken by the leader. He stays as a Marker for all the following bikes. The Marker should pull in at the side of the road, in a safe place where he/she will be visible to the rest of the riders so that the direction will be indicated to all the following riders. It is essential that the Marker stops in a position where: Doing so is safe. They do not put themselves at any risk. They do not obstruct any other road users. The rest of the ride can see them clearly as they approach the direction change. The Marker should indicate the direction taken by the leader, using, if necessary, indicators, hands and or bike. When the Back Marker approaches the Marker, the Marker should take up position in front of the Back Marker. The Back Marker should leave enough space for this to happen. If it is not safe to pull out in front of the Back Marker, then the Marker should re-join the traffic when possible and take up position in front of the Back Marker as soon as it is safe to do so. The number two rider (The Marker) could forget to mark a direction change – in which case the next rider (Number three) should take it upon themselves to be the marker, and signal the direction change to prevent the chain from breaking. This approach involves the entire group and the 10
Marker gets rotated from front to back and naturally moves up to the front again. Each group will have a designated ‘Ride Leader’ and a ‘Back Marker’. The positions of these two riders will not change throughout the run. They will be introduced to all the riders in the group at the start of the outing when the leader briefs the group on the ride.
Whenever or wherever there is a change of direction at junctions, and all roundabouts, the rider, (now referred to as “Marker”), immediately behind the leader will indicate the route taken by the leader. He stays as a Marker for all the following bikes. The Marker should pull in at the side of the road, in a safe place where he/ she will be visible to the rest of the riders so that the direction can be indicated to all the following riders. It is essential that the Marker stops in a position where: If you are unsure on any aspect of the ride, always ask advice or clarification. Safety is still paramount. If you are unsure as to whether you should mark a junction, and then mark it regardless. A roundabout, or crossroads where you do not have priority, should be marked by parking in a safe, visible position on the exit. Should a junction or roundabout not be marked, the default action is to continue straight ahead. There is no need to play catch–up. With the drop off system, there will be a Marker waiting for you at the next junction. Everyone should keep a safe distance be11
hind the rider in front. A staggered riding formation may be adopted where appropriate to aid forward visibility and transit through traffic lights. Avoid ‘follow my leader’ riding/convoy style riding, which could lull you into unsafe /careless riding – ride your ride. When you are the Marker, wait for The Back Marker to arrive, even if this takes a long time. There may be a breakdown further back which you are unaware. If necessary switch off your engine. If you leave your position everyone behind will suffer, and the run will fall apart. The group may sometimes become very ‘strung out’, causing anxiety to some riders. The Leader may then decide to stop, in a safe place, to allow the group to reform before continuing. Riders must obey all relevant UK road traffic laws and, if and when appropriate, those of other nations. They are to observe the Highway Code and heed the warnings displayed on roadside signs and signals (e.g. Local and national speed limits). Finally, be sure to listen to your Ride Leader before the start of the ride to ensure he has not made any changes to these procedures. Obeying these simple rules will ensure that our ride outs will be safe and pleasurable.You the rider are deemed to be in control of your motorcycle at all times during this ride and all other group activities. You are entirely responsible for your decisions and actions, and you must obey all traffic regulations at all times. 12
The Leaders Role As you approach the marker bike, slow down to enable them to pull out. If it is not safe to pull out in front, rejoin the traffic whenever possible. Watch out for any rider who feels that the pace is too quick and is signalling for other bikes to overtake, allowing themselves to stay at the rear of the group in front of you. Keep an eye out for riders in front of you who are riding inappropriately, or who may be out of their depth. In conjunction with the ride Leader, identify appropriate actions to address the situation. Watch out for any bikes that have pulled over for any reason, and stop to find out what the problem is. Be aware of other bikes who are not part of our group, as these may wish to make more progress than we are making. We should not hold them up. Tail End Charlie As you approach the marker bike, slow down to enable them to pull out. If it is not safe to pull out in front, they will rejoin the traffic whenever possible. Watch out for any rider who feels that the pace is too quick and is signalling for other bikes to overtake, allowing themselves to stay at the rear of the group infront of you. Keep an eye out for riders in front of you who are clearly riding inappropriately, or who may be out of their depth. In conjunction with the ride Leader, identify appropriate actions to address the situation. Watch out for any bikes that have pulled over for any reason, and stop to find out what the problem is.Be aware of other bikes who are not part of our group, as these may wish to make more progress than we are making. We should not hold them up. 13
How to fit a Scottoiler Why bother? Especially if you have a shaft driven bike….. Because one of the biggest arse-aches of owning a bike with chain drive is keeping it correctly lubricated come rain or shine. Thick aerosol lube doesn’t penetrate the rollers well, and once squeezed off the roller by the sprocket, it doesn’t do much more lubricating. And there are still some spray-type lubes that contain propellant gases or liquids which damage the soft O-rings which are there to prevent crud getting into a link’s internals. A Scottoiler provides a constant, measured supply of safe lubricating oil, ensuring your chain lasts up to three times longer. What you’re dealing with An oil-carrying reservoir which bolts to your bike, giving an adjustable flow of lubricant through a pipe when ever the engine is running. It requires no electrical power to work, just a connection to the bike’s vacuum system on the carb(s) or fuel injection system. You like a squeaky chain and sprockets which wear out and need replacing every 600 miles, or if you just can’t be arsed to remove the bike’s fuel tank. Stuff you’ll need Ideally, a rear paddock stand, a socket set (8-17mm minimum), combination spanners (8-19mm), various screwdrivers (Phillips and flat-bladed), Allen keys (4-10mm), contact cleaner and a piece of emery cloth or fine grit sandpaper. What can go wrong? The oiler unit can deliver too much oil at first so it’s best to set it to minimum flow then increase the flow if need be. What skills do I need? Just a little old-fashioned politeness and the ability to use a telephone – if fitting problems occur, the nice people at Scottoiler are only a phone call away and, let’s face it, they’ve had more experience than all of us at fitting a Scottoiler. 1. Choose the best unit to suit your needs. Touring and courier bikes are best off with the touring system, which has a large capacity reservoir which bolts behind the numberplate. The universal kit pictured is best suited to sports bikes (Kawasaki ZX-10R in this case) as it’s smaller and can be hidden out of sight. 2. Find a suitable place on the bike to install the reservoir, preferably somewhere prying eyes and twiddling fingers can’t get at it. Inside the tail section is favourable especially on the side of the subframe as this means the toolkit and disc lock can be retained. If this looks favourable now’s the time to remove the tail bodywork. 3. With the tail plastics off, look closely to see if the reservoir will actually fit without interfering with seat lock cables, wiring loom connections etc. Again, bear in mind that you may need to get at the oil flow adjuster knob when the plastics are refitted. If in doubt then mount the reservoir loosely with sticky tape and refit the plastics. 4. The Scottoiler reservoir comes with various mounting clamps and brackets to suit tubular or square section metalwork. Try them all to find the most secure fit14
ment. We settled for the rubber strap version with flat base that allows it to be attached as close to subframe as possible – it’ll also help soak up knocks from the firm suspension. 5. The rubber strap needs to be mounted in place with the supplied superglue. Our tip is to carefully remove the paint or anodised finish off the metalwork where the strap mounts, as this gives the glue a better foothold. Use fine emery cloth to remove the coating. Tape the reservoir and strap in place until the glue dries. 6. The Scottoiler utilises the movement of air in the fuel system’s balance pipes. Bikes with carbs will also have a take-off point to balance them and this can also be used with supplied adaptors. On injected systems it’s best to make use of one of may balance pipes. If you’re unsure which is which, refer to a workshop manual or ask a dealer. 7. When a balance pipe is found cut it in half. A T-piece connector (supplied) joins the ends back together (a bit of spit helps gets the hose ends on easier), while also providing a take-off point for the air pipe to the reservoir for its valve system to release the oil. Ensure this pipe is kink-free and that it won’t get trapped with the tank back on. 8. Fit the oil-supplying pipe, starting from the chain end. The end of the pipe incorporates a flexible metal rod to finalise the position of the nozzle to the inside of the lower run of chain – the fling action of oil on a moving chain then ensures total roller lubrication. The Scottoiler kit comes with a selection of brackets to help mount the pipe in place. 9. Route the rest of the pipe back to the reservoir. You want to aim for a kink-free route but also one that hides the pipe. The kit comes with cable-ties and tape and flexible pipe mounts. Excess pipe can be trimmed back before connecting to the reservoir. Our routing shows the pipe over the swingarm (the hugger was removed for the picture). 10. Now fill the reservoir with Scottoiler’s own brand lubricating oil (supplied). The oil is blue in colour, this signifies the oil is slightly thinner in consistency for colder climates, such as the UK. Attach the oil container according to the instructions and fill the reservoir to only three-quarters full. 11. Turn the flow adjuster to ‘prime’ and disconnect the breather on the filler plug. Turn the container upright so only air is forced out when squeezed. This air is forced out when squeezed. This air is enough to pressurise the reservoir and force the oil into the delivery and exit pipe. Reconnect the breather and top up the reservoir and set flow to minimum (1). 12. Run the bike at standstill and if everything is OK oil will drip from the exit pipe on to the chain – after 20 miles riding you’ll see if more oil is required (move adjuster one position at a time for best results). Refit the bodywork ensuring the remote, bendy fill-up tube-cum-breather is accessible. Check oil level frequently, say every weekend. 15
DISCLAIMER:-
The articles published herein do not necessarily represent the views of the Institute of Advanced Motorists Ltd, or the Wirral Group of Advanced Motorcyclists. They are the opinions of individual contributors and are published with the view that free expression promotes discussion and interests. So you have been warned. Interested in doing the Advanced Car Test? Wirral Advanced Motorists are the people to see. Go to www.wirraliam.co.uk