room key
tuscan treasure
On a hill overlooking Florence, the luxe villa Il Salviatino promises a soothing immersion in the rural charms of the Renaissance. By Everett Potter
| boyds
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he glories of Florence are legion, from walking awestruck through the Uffizi Gallery to marveling at the Duomo, the 15th-century cathedral with a spectacular dome designed by Brunelleschi that lies at the heart of this Renaissance city. Not to mention daily samplings of the world’s best gelato. But at day’s end, instead of staying in the marvelous but often congested heart of town, the cognoscenti head for the hills of neighboring Fiesole. Barely 15 minutes from the Duomo by taxi (assuming a local is at the wheel), Fiesole offers a tranquil aerie ideal for contemplating the marvels of Florence. And there’s no better place to make your overnight base than a spectacularly restored villa there called Il Salviatino. Long the favored hillside summer retreat of wealthy Florentine families and British writers such as Robert and Elizabeth Browning, Fiesole was the birthplace of Renaissance painter Fra Angelico. It features Etruscan and Roman ruins and a Roman theater that is still used today. Il Salviatino dates from the 15th century—it was once the home of the Bardi family of bankers. The years have brought many owners and several additions, including a tower, a conservatory and gardens. But for nearly half a century,
until 2007, it housed students for Stanford University’s overseas branch. That’s when veteran hotelier Marcello Pignozzo bought the run-down villa masquerading as a dorm, hired award-winning architect Luciano Columbo and poured millions of euros into restoring the buildings and the gardens. When they finished in 2010, they had 45 exquisite guest rooms and suites, some retaining 19th-century frescoes, along with public areas festooned with fine paintings and a blend of antique and modern furniture. Think of this as a country house hotel at the edge of the city. There is no check-in desk. Instead, you will be met, escorted and coddled throughout your stay by so-called “service ambassadors,” which is a bit like having a flock of concierges hovering just out of sight. This remarkably restored and reimagined villa has oak floors, red carpets, silver candelabras and a staircase in the entrance fit for a 1940s Hollywood movie. If there’s a favorite room, it might be the grand library, with Chesterfield sofas begging you to sit and read a book or maybe just contemplate the grandeur. The guest rooms are decorated in muted browns and yellows, the look classic and a tad conservative, and the marble bathrooms are opulent indeed. For those seeking a bit
more, there are suites to satisfy every fantasy. The top-floor Ojetti suite is on three levels with a glass-floored rooftop conservatory and a Jacuzzi overlooking the distant rooftops of Florence. There is a terraced pool area with three infinity pools that’s open from mid-April to mid-October, and pampering is available at the Spa Il Salviatino. During the summer, you can dine alfresco at La Terraza, which exudes a certain expected formality with its white linen-covered chairs—even with gravel underfoot. The designated dining room, Le Serre, offers more regimented gastronomy. And when it’s time to go into Florence there’s a shuttle that conveniently leaves you next to the Duomo. Il Salviatino is refreshingly 21st century when it comes to conveniences, and your room will have a Bose sound system, an iPod dock and a full-length mirror that conceals a TV. Yet what you’re likely to remember are not the electronics but the 12 acres of formal gardens and the private park that surround the hotel, as well as distant views of Brunelleschi’s dome framed by ancient pine trees. That is the true essence of Italian luxury. Il Salviatino, Via del Salviatino 21, Fiesole, Florence, Tuscany, Italy (00 39 055 904 1111; salviatino.com)
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