Washington Grown Magazine - November 2023 by wa-potatoes

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Holiday Favorites A SHOW-S TOPPING

ROASTED GARLIC SOURDOU GH RECIP E INSIDE

Giving thanks with cultures around the world

Historic Carnation Farms has a new mission

The leadership program shaping agriculture's future

Puzzles and games related to this issue!

From turkey and stuffing to moon cakes and yams, diverse harvest celebrations unite the world.

N AMERICA CIRCA 2023, Thanksgiving may be the most familiar harvest celebration, but it’s certainly not the only one. Harvest celebrations have been an important part of human culture for nearly all of recorded history, and nearly every culture around the world has some way of celebrating when the harvest comes in.

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The humble origin story of America’s Thanksgiving is well known – or at least the simplified, legendary version of the story. According to the legend, after Puritan settlers arrived in the New World in 1620, a particularly harsh winter decimated the colonists. Those who survived the starvation and the bitter cold of the New England winter were saved in the spring when two leaders of the Abenaki tribe, Samoset and Tisquantum (better known as Squanto), came to investigate the strangers. Squanto, who knew English, took pity on the settlers and took time to teach them how to grow corn and catch fish. That autumn, when the grateful settlers harvested the corn that would keep them alive through the next winter, they threw a party and invited their Native neighbors – and thus Thanksgiving was born.

WASHINGTON WASHINGTON GROWN GROWN MAGAZINE MAGAZINE NOVEMBER NOVEMBER 2023 2023

From turkey and stuffing to moon cakes and yams, diverse harvest celebrations unite the world.

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One hundred and sixty-nine years later, President George Washington issued a proclamation designating a "Day of Public Thanks-Giving," and the holiday was brought into the public zeitgeist in America. Similar Thanksgiving holidays were instituted in other countries around the world, from Australia to the Philippines. In the mid-to-late 1800s, when settlers crossed the country and settled in the agriculturally rich Northwest, they brought their Thanksgiving traditions with them. Many journals and letters of early Washington settlers mention the Thanksgiving celebrations in communities like Yakima City, Ellensburgh, and Centralia.

But throughout history, harvest has been the source of many feasts – and is often intertwined with religious rituals focused on giving thanks. The Romans had their Ludi Cereales, or feasts in honor of the goddess Ceres (from whom we get our word "cereal," which is an adjective applied to grains like wheat, rice, rye, barley, and corn). They also held a festival called the Vinalia Rustica, in which a priest plucked the year’s first ripe grapes and prayed a blessing over the rest of the crop. Ancient Roman scholar Marcus Terentius Varro once said, "On the gates of Tusculum, there is the inscription: The new wine shall not be carried into the city until the Vinalia has been proclaimed."

In the years since, as modern farming has made harvests more reliable and less of a gamble, Thanksgiving has gotten detached from its agricultural roots. While the food on the table is usually fantastic, most people connect the holiday with a generalized gratitude and goodwill, more than with celebrating another successful harvest.

In China, the Mid-Autumn Festival, known as the Moon Festival, has been observed for more than 3,000 years. The holiday is marked by family reunions and eating mooncakes, a traditional pastry filled with various sweet or savory fillings. Towns and homes are decorated with lanterns of all size and shapes – symbolic beacons lighting the path to prosperity and good fortune. The

Drummers keep the harvest celebration moving during the Yam Festival in Ghana.

purpose of the festival is to gather with family and friends, to give thanks for the harvest, and to pray for good fortune. India’s Capricorn Festival is celebrated under different names throughout the country. During the three-day festival in January, celebrants go from house to house, singing and asking for treats. Some go to sacred rivers or lakes and bathe in a ceremony of thanks to the sun. Some fly kites or light bonfires, and feasts are held in each community. The Ewe people of Ghana celebrate the end of the rainy season and the first appearance of yams, a staple crop. The duration and exact days of the Yam Festival vary according to place, but, regardless of the manifestation, the festival is held in hopes of averting famine in the coming year. Huge feasts and activities such as dances and parades are held.

A community Thanksgiving dinner in 1893, given by the Michigan Soldiers Colony in Port Angeles, Washington. 4

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The Sukkot festival in Israel celebrates the harvest and recalls the time when the Israelites wandered the desert living in temporary shelters. Temporary huts, called sukkah, are built for each family to eat and sleep in over the course of seven days as they feast, gather together, and express thankfulness. "Harvest Home," also known as "Ingathering," is a harvest festival that has been traditionally held in

England, Ireland, Scotland, and Northern Europe. According to Brittanica, "Participants celebrate the last day of harvest in late September by singing, shouting, and decorating the village with boughs. The last sheaf of corn (grain), which represents the spirit of the field, is made into a harvest doll and drenched with water as a rain charm. This sheaf is saved until spring planting. The ancient festival also included the symbolic murder of the grain spirit, as well as rites for expelling the devil." Churches have historically played a significant role in these Ingathering celebrations, wherein people bring baskets of freshly harvested produce to decorate the church altar. The food is then distributed to the needy. And, of course, long before any European settlers arrived, many Native American tribes had some variation of a "Green Corn" festival to celebrate the harvest each year. Before the festival, participants must go and make peace with anyone with whom they have had disagreements in the prior year. A period of fasting and prayers leads to a time of dancing and a shared meal. The practice of pausing for reflection and gratitude at harvest time is nearly universal. As you and your loved ones gather this Thanksgiving, remember that you’re participating in an integral part of human culture that is nearly as old as the world itself! WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

Drummers keep the harvest celebration moving during the Yam Festival in Ghana.

A community Thanksgiving dinner in 1893, given by the Michigan Soldiers Colony in Port Angeles, Washington. 4

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

CARNATION FARMS

Carnation Farms has been transformed over the years, from a dairy giant to a sustainable paradise teaching the next generation.

ARNATION FARMS MIGHT BE BEST KNOWN FOR ITS BEGINNINGS, as a pioneering dairy that grew into a food empire, but these days, the farm is more about looking toward the future — providing high-quality organic food to the community as it educates kids and adults about food and sustainability. The Washington Grown team featured the farm in 2021, when Nadja Ochs served as an executive director. "Currently, we’re here to teach and educate people about sustainable agriculture, how food is grown," she said, "and have kids come out into the field and learn where their food comes from." The 818-acre organic farm, located east of Seattle in the little town of Carnation, opened in 1908 as a dairy farm, eventually growing into

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the Carnation brand you see in grocery stores everywhere. Nestle purchased Carnation in 1985 and sold the farm to a nonprofit in 2008. Today, the farm grows more than 100 seasonal vegetables and fruit, and its other offerings include beef, lamb and mutton shares; eggs; and Thanksgiving turkeys. While it operates both a CSA and a farm stand, the core of Carnation Farms’ mission is to educate the community with hands-on experience. "They can work in the field, they can harvest that vegetable, they can cook it, they can eat it, they can enjoy it," said Ochs. "They get to experience the whole food system." Rosie Smit, then the director of agriculture information, was in charge of offering tours and working with kids visiting the farm. During a tour for the Washington Grown

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

CARNATION FARMS

Carnation Farms has been transformed over the years, from a dairy giant to a sustainable paradise teaching the next generation.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

team, she watched a flock of 60 week-old baby turkeys scurry around under an incubator light. She said they’ll be moved outside when their feathers grow out and they can regulate their body temperatures. Out in the pasture, a flock of adult turkeys pecked at the grasses and ran freely around a wide, gated area. Kindness to the livestock has always been a key tenet of Carnation Farms, whose first owner created policies to ensure the cows were happy and healthy. Smit pointed at the turkeys grazing in the grasses and clover. "They are destined for Thanksgiving dinners," she said. "They come out of the breeder, and they live the rest of their lives on pasture, so we move this electric fencing around. And if you gobble, sometimes they gobble back." (We gobbled, and they did in fact gobble back.) Smit said she notices a huge difference when people get to see where their food comes from. "I think it’s inspiring people to eat better," she said. "Anytime we can excite folks about the food system and get them excited about food, it’s very satisfying." Ochs smiled as she stood under an overcast sky outside the chicken coops, one of which is named "Starship Henterprise."

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"Her parents were farmworkers. Now she owns the farm."

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"On a sunny day, on a rainy day, it’s just absolutely gorgeous," she said. "And it’s inspiring to be around really smart farmers and a really good team of people that are growing delicious food."

Though Carnation Farms is best known for it's innovative history as a dairy, now the fields are populated by turkeys and more than 100 seasonal crops.

Watch the show online or on your local station

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DOWN 1. The nickname of the Puritan settlers' lifesaving teacher 3. The organization that trains leaders in Washington ag 4. The home of the annual Yam Festival 6. The harvest festival observed in China

GAME CORNER

ACROSS 2. The Washington farm best known for its history as a dairy 5. A type of bread made with fermented dough 7. The president who signed Thanksgiving proclamation 8. The poultry that stars in most Thanksgiving feasts

good bread

love is

RIND AND WHEAT SPOKANE

made

visible"

There’s something about the simplicity of a really good sourdough loaf that ignites the senses: the smells as it bakes; the warm crust under your fingertips; the slight tang on the tongue. Those sensory delights are made even better by the knowledge that whoever made that loaf had to pay their dues and earn their stripes, as good sourdough doesn’t often reveal its secrets to a novice. Some restaurants can create astoundingly complex dishes, but encountering a really good, simple loaf of sourdough lets you know that you’re in the presence of a true craftsman.

what was served at the first Thanksgiving? Puritan Edward Winslow journaled that the feast included venison, assorted wildfowl (though not necessarily turkey), fish like cod and bass, and corn porridge. Breads made from corn flour probably made an appearance. And pumpkins may have been part of the meal, but probably not in the form of pies.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

ENTER TO WIN! Visit our website and sign up to be entered into a drawing for a $25 gift certificate to Rind And Wheat in Spokane! *Limit one entry per household

In the heart of Spokane, you can find a really good loaf of bread at a small bakery called Rind And Wheat. Owner Ricky Webster and his team make more than just sourdough, obviously, but the sourdough acts as the proverbial canary in this coal mine, warning each customer that these guys really know what they’re doing. "I just can't get enough of everything here," one customer said. "The chocolate croissants, breakfast pizzas … but the artisan loaves are just really amazing. It's one of those places where you just wanna keep coming back, and I'm here pretty much every week."

According to Webster, that appeal is no accident. All the offerings in the pastry case are baked with local ingredients, and the friendly vibe is intended to invite customers inside to sample some of the goods. Many customers linger, sampling different pastries and cheeses until they find the perfect combination. "Everything is made fresh every single morning, so a lot of times, that smell will draw people in," said Webster. "They'll see that pastry case, but then they'll turn the corner and they'll be like, 'Oh, you have cheese, and you have wine, and well … I don't need to go anywhere else today.'" Some of the customers at Rind And Wheat refer to him as a celebrity, but Ricky's journey to becoming a beloved baker wasn't entirely a straightforward path. "If you would've asked me five years ago, I never wanted to own a bakery," Ricky said, chuckling. But he speaks often of his family and learning to love bread and cheese from his mom and grandma. "I love to celebrate those things. We really wanna take what's in our closest footprint – our local ingredients. I want to provide just that little taste of something unique." WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

GAME CORNER

good bread

love is

RIND AND WHEAT SPOKANE

made

visible"

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

ENTER TO WIN! Visit our website and sign up to be entered into a drawing for a $25 gift certificate to Rind And Wheat in Spokane! *Limit one entry per household

Complexity: Advanced • Time: About 8 hours, plus 24 hours proofing

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Makes: 2 loaves

If you really want to impress your Thanksgiving guests, bake them fresh bread! This sourdough loaf starts with an active sourdough starter, and the dough will cold-proof in the refrigerator for two stretches of at least 12 hours, so start at least a day in advance! Baking the bread in a Dutch oven traps the escaping steam from the dough, helping create the effect bakers get spraying water into commercial ovens while loaves bake, setting the crust and encouraging crispiness. The confit garlic makes more than needed for this recipe, but save the extra – it would make a great spread for the bread when you serve it!

INGREDIENTS Confit Garlic • 4 heads garlic, cloves separated and peeled • 2 sprigs fresh rosemary • 1 teaspoon chili flakes (optional, if you like a little heat) • 1 1/2 cups olive oil, more if needed Bread • 750 g water • 250 g sourdough starter • 800 g bread flour • 200 g whole wheat or rye flour • 20 g kosher salt • 2 teaspoons dried herbs, such as herbes de Provence • Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

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For the confit garlic, preheat the oven to 200 F. Combine the garlic, rosemary, and chili flakes (if using) in a small shallow baking dish. Add the olive oil, which should cover the garlic cloves; if not, add more oil. Bake until the garlic is tender and lightly golden, but not browned, about 2 hours. Set aside to cool completely. When cool, use a fork to lift out 1/2 cup of the garlic cloves and put them in a small bowl; refrigerate the remaining confit garlic in its oil for other uses. In a large bowl, combine the water and starter, then add the bread flour and whole wheat flour. Mix until evenly combined; at this point the dough will be a bit shaggy; that’s normal. Cover and let rest for 35 minutes to let the flour absorb the moisture. Add the salt, herbs, and lemon zest and work them into the dough until well incorporated and the dough becomes smoother. Cover and let rest for 45 minutes. Now begin the first round of the stretch-and-fold process: grab one side of the dough, lifting it up to gently stretch a bit and fold it up onto the top of the dough. Turn the bowl one-quarter turn and repeat this stretching and folding process. Repeat this process of turning the bowl then stretching and folding the dough two more times. Cover the bowl and let rest for 45 minutes. Scatter 1/2 cup of the confit garlic over the dough and repeat the stretch-and-fold process, with the four, one-quarter turns. Cover the bowl and let rest another 45 minutes, then repeat the stretch-and-fold process one last time. Cover the bowl and put it in the refrigerator to proof for 12 to 18 hours. Remove the proofed dough from the refrigerator, gently turn it out onto a lightly floured counter, and divide it in half. If you want to be precise, use a scale. Gently preshape your loaves by tucking the edges under, making it somewhat round. Make sure all folds/pleats are at the bottom and then cover with a cloth and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes. Meanwhile, prepare 2 proofing baskets with a heavy sprinkling of rice flour and set aside. To shape each loaf, flip the round over onto a lightly floured surface and gently stretch the round out to a circle of about 9 inches. Lift the left side of the circle up and fold over a little past the middle. Lift the right side of the circle up and over to about the middle, just overlapping the left side that was just folded. With both hands, grab the top of the dough and lift it up, away from you, then fold the top edge a few inch-

es down over the dough, using your fingertips to press the dough edge into the layer of dough beneath it to lightly seal. Continue lifting the from the top edge and rolling the dough downward, sealing at each fold-over. With each fold, avoid using too much pressure. Fold and roll loosely, pressing gently to seal the edges. After the final fold with your fingers, the dough should be smooth on the outside with a firm surface. This dough will now undergo a long proof time and needs to be shaped with enough strength to make it to the oven without spreading outward excessively. With the help of a bench knife, flip the shaped loaf into your proofing basket, seam-side up. Gently adjust the dough if needed, so that it is well centered in the basket. Wrap the baskets in plastic and refrigerate for at least 12 hours and up to 18 hours. When ready to bake, preheat a Dutch oven in the oven while it is preheating to 450 F. Cut two pieces of parchment paper into 12-inch rounds. When the oven is preheated, take one loaf out of the refrigerator and unwrap it. Lay one piece of the parchment over the basket, top with an inverted pizza peel or wooden cutting board, and flip them over together, then remove the basket with the dough now resting on the parchment. Score the top of the loaf with a "box" or "X" pattern. If using scissors, snip the dough a few times at a very shallow angle between the scissors and the dough, forming a set of ridges down the dough's center. Wearing heavy-duty oven mitts, carefully remove the Dutch oven from the oven. Holding the peel, carefully slide the dough-topped parchment paper into the Dutch oven, centering it as best you can. Cover with the lid and return the Dutch oven to the oven to bake for 20 minutes. Wearing the oven mitt, very carefully remove the lid from the Dutch oven and continue baking the bread for 30 minutes longer. To confirm that the bread is done, an instant-read thermometer should register around 208 degrees when inserted in the center of the loaf; bake a few minutes longer if needed. Carefully transfer the loaf to a wire rack to cool. Place the Dutch oven back in the oven to heat for 10 to 15 minutes before repeating the baking process for the second loaf. WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

Complexity: Advanced • Time: About 8 hours, plus 24 hours proofing

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Makes: 2 loaves

Roasted RIND AND WHEAT'S

Garlic

Sourdough

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

"Leadership, some say, is born. We believe that leaders can be built, and that is why you’re here."

When you sit at your Thanksgiving table or indulge in your favorite holiday recipes, have you ever considered the intricate web of efforts that make those cherished moments possible? Behind every delectable dish lies the toil and dedication of countless individuals who nurture Washington's agriculture. Among these unsung heroes are the graduates of the AgForestry Leadership Program. This unique initiative molds leaders from diverse backgrounds, empowering them to advocate for sustainable natural resources management in the Evergreen State. AgForestry's website states their aims clearly: "Leadership, some say, is born. We believe that leaders can be built, and that is why you’re here." A Transformative Journey The AgForestry Program is more than just a leadership program; it's a transformative journey that equips adults in the natural resources industry with the skills and knowledge to drive positive change in Washington's agriculture sector. Farmers, ranchers, foresters, and other agribusiness professionals embark on an 18-month adventure comprising 11 seminars across Washington state, a week in the nation's capital, Washington, D.C., and two immersive weeks in a foreign country. During these seminars, participants don't just learn about leadership and advocacy, they embrace the opportunity to collaborate with peers who hail from diverse walks of life and possess varying perspectives on natural resources management. "They all have different ways of thinking, different ways they serve natural resources, and (fall on) different ends of the political spectrum," said former AgForestry Executive Director Matt Kloes. However, the program's magic lies in fostering trust among participants, demonstrating that, despite disagreements, they can find common ground and unite for the betterment of Washington. Action-Oriented Leadership While knowledge acquisition is a crucial program component, it's only the beginning. Participants are encouraged to implement their newfound leadership skills on both state and national levels. Throughout

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AGFORESTRY LEADERSHIP

the program, they collaborate on a capstone project designed to create real-world impact. This project typically involves efforts to pass new legislation or alter administrative rules that benefit Washington's agriculture industry. Although this may sound daunting, it exemplifies the remarkable capability of AgForestry Program graduates to drive meaningful change. By proving that their advocacy can lead to legislative victories or policy improvements, these leaders underscore their pivotal role in preserving the state's precious natural resources. A Silent Force for Washington Agriculture "Washington state is now better because there is a silent force of AgForestry graduates out there making a difference every day," said Kloes. "They're helping us to have sustainable natural resources management to feed the world. They are out there doing the work that needs to be done." As you savor your favorite holiday dishes, remember that the AgForestry Program's graduates are hard at work, ensuring that Washington's agriculture remains vibrant and sustainable. Through their dedication, these leaders continue to shape the future of our state's agriculture industry, safeguarding the holiday favorites we hold dear. This November, as we gather with loved ones to celebrate the season, let us also applaud the tireless efforts of the AgForestry Program and its graduates. They are the steadfast supporters of our holiday favorites, committed to preserving the agricultural bounty of Washington for generations to come.

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

"Leadership, some say, is born. We believe that leaders can be built, and that is why you’re here."

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AGFORESTRY LEADERSHIP

WASHINGTON GROWN MAGAZINE NOVEMBER 2023

Maximizing Sustainability

for

smart tips

saving

Holiday leftovers

The joy of a festive holiday meal is often followed by the conundrum of what to do with the leftovers. Beyond providing delicious meals for the days to come, properly handling leftovers is a sustainable practice that helps reduce food waste. With a few easy steps, you can not only save your leftover holiday feast but also contribute to a greener planet.

Always label your leftover containers. Properly labeling your leftover containers is a small but essential step. Clearly marking the contents and date ensures that you'll use them before they go bad, preventing unnecessary waste. It also prevents confusion, so you won't accidentally get the wrong flavor combination in tomorrow's turkey sandwich.

Don't throw away meats or vegetables. The first and most crucial step in handling holiday meal leftovers sustainably is to resist the urge to throw away any edible portions. Meats, vegetables, and even side dishes can be repurposed into new, exciting dishes.

If you won't use within a week, freeze them for up to two months. If you foresee that you won't consume your leftovers within a week, consider freezing them. Invest in airtight containers or freezer bags, ensuring that no air gets in to preserve the quality of the food. Label with the date so you can easily keep track of what needs to be used first. Frozen leftovers can remain safe and delicious for up to two months.

Use those leftover meats and vegetables to make a soup or stew. Sandwiches are the reigning MVP for turkey leftovers, and for good reason. But one of the most efficient ways to utilize holiday leftovers is by transforming them into a hearty soup or stew. Whether it's turkey, ham, or roasted vegetables, they can all find a second life in a flavorful broth. Combine your leftover meats and veggies with some broth, seasonings, and perhaps some cubed potatoes and carrots, and you'll have a delightful, waste-free meal.

Saving holiday meal leftovers is not only a practical way to enjoy more of your festive dishes but also a sustainable choice that reduces food waste. By following these simple steps, you'll contribute to a healthier planet and relish the flavors of the holiday season for even longer.

The Washington Grown project is made possible by the Washington State Department of Agriculture and the USDA Specialty Crop Block Grant program, through a partnership with the state’s farmers. Marketing Director Brandy Tucker

Art Designer Jon Schuler

Editor Kara Rowe

Writers Jon Schuler Maya Aune Elissa Sweet

Assistant Editor Trista Crossley

Images Rind And Wheat AgForestry Carnation Farms Washington State Library Shutterstock Washington Grown

Executive Producers Kara Rowe David Tanner Chris Voigt Producer Ian Loe

Hosts Kristi Gorenson Tomás Guzmán Val Thomas-Matson