ON THE COVER NO. 47 THE FOOD ISSUE
CONTENTS 12 HIGHLY/RATED Twist’s new Don; the remix of Rivea and Skyfall; Pawn Stars’ debut in the plaza; a New York transplant gets the Las Vegas treatment. 75 BUY We present our wish list for stores that we desperately want in town, but in the meantime, check out fve new spots to shop ’til you drop.
COVER ONE PHOTOGRAPHY ANTHONY MAIR The Frenchie Burger from db Brasserie is heavy with Morbier cheese, confit pork belly and arugula. Say bonjour to The Frenchie at The Grand Canal Shoppes; venetian.com COVER TWO PHOTOGRAPHY CARLOS LARIOS A chocolate soufflé isn’t often made at home, so when we want to be wowed, we go to Hearthstone. Watch it rise and fall at Red Rock Hotel Casino; hearthstonelv.com COVER THREE PHOTOGRAPHY SABIN ORR Sure, you go to Hooters for the, uh, wings. But did you know they have stacked nachos, too? Pile it on at Palms; palms.com COVER FOUR PHOTOGRAPHY ANTHONY MAIR The veal Parmigiana from Rao’s is the king of all Parms, so large that when it arrives at your table it’s almost comical. Feed your caveman at Caesars Palace; caesarspalace.com
84 SEE The Shops at Crystals has a new treasure in its crown, which we celebrate along with the 20th anniversary of Showgirls. Yes, the flm.
FEATURES 25 $20 OF BURGERS In a feld of $20 contenders, fnd out how your favorite burger stacks up. 32 YOU WANT FRIES WITH THAT? You can’t have burgers without fries, duh. Here, they get to be the star. 36 TOUR DE DUMPLING Think of it as reverse dim sum: instead of dumplings coming to us, we went all over town to them. 38 CHEF’S DAY OUT What do chefs eat when they need a little taste of home? 44 PLATED Comfort food may be humble, but it doesn’t have to look that way. 52 PARMIGIAN’ED Dishes bathed in red sauce and melted cheese never looked so good. 64 DARK MATTER Chocolate is always the answer. 88 THE END We didn’t know we needed the vintage Las Vegas Celebrity Cookbook until just now.
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THE EDITOR’S AGENDA
THIS MONTH— IN MY LIFE
1 Get ready for the second wave. While we cover many of the
early fall/winter openings in this issue, including Carbone at Aria, Rivea at Delano and Pawn Plaza, which features great local eateries such as Inna Gadda di Pizza (from the makers of The Cosmopolitan’s Secret Pizza) and Rollin’ Smoke—there are more to come. Chef Brian Malarkey/Hakkasan Group’s Herringbone will launch later this year at Aria, as well as Roy Ellamar’s Harvest in Bellagio, replacing Sensi.
2 Meet the new Clique. Occupying the former
Book & Stage space on the casino foor of The Cosmopolitan, Clique lounge will open midDecember. Clique will offer patrons an alternative to bottle service by way of tableside mixology, says Clique Hospitality partner Andy Masi. Unlike other bars at The Cosmo, Clique will also have its own food menu. Visit vrated.com/ cliqueincosmo for the full story.
3 Take a new fight.
Virgin, Norwegian and Frontier all have announced new routes to/from Vegas. That means more ways to get here and, of course, more ways to leave, with new nonstops from Dallas, Miami, Houston, Chicago and Stockholm.
4 Drink cocktails at Social, again and again. Recently, I tasted my way through eight new cocktails created by Bar Rescue’s Mia Mastroianni for Palms’ center bar, Social. They bear playful names such as the iPaloma, the Clover Club Chatroom and the Espresso Uploader. palms.com
5 Eat at my favorite new restaurant
Downtown. Opening just before this issue’s press date, Natalie Young’s eatery Chow—the follow-up to her über-successful breakfast and lunch spot Eat—is my current obsession. Chow skillfully blends Southern comforts such as chicken and rice soup and fried chicken with Chinese classics such as eggrolls, dumplings and lo mein. facebook. com/chowdtlv
MELINDA SHECKELLS Editor-in-Chief @melindasvegas
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CONTRIBUTORS GRACE BASCOS
NO. 47 THE FOOD ISSUE
MICHAEL SKENANDORE Publisher Associate Publisher Editor-in-Chief Creative Director
CHRISTY CORDA MELINDA SHECKELLS BEN WARD
Interim Managing Editor/ Contributing Dining Editor Copy Chief Editorial Interns
GRACE BASCOS PAUL SZYDELKO KAYLA DEAN, TROY FOSGATE, TIA KEYS, JONMAESHA SHADRICK, MITCHELL WEISS
Contributing Editors
GENEVIE DURANO (AT LARGE) GEOFF CARTER (CULTURE) XANIA WOODMAN (BEVERAGE)
Contributing Writers
JAMES CALE, GEOFF CARTER, LAURA JANELLE DOWNEY, LISSA TOWNSEND RODGERS, JESSIE O’BRIEN
Contributing Designer Senior Contributing Photographer Contributing Photographers Interactive Developer Assistant Web Producer Engagement Editor Digital Sales Manager Account Manager Director of Production/Distribution Advertising Manager Distribution Coordinator
JESSE J SUTHERLAND ANTHONY MAIR JON ESTRADA, CARLOS LARIOS, SABIN ORR HERB AKINYELE AMBER SAMPSON ZONEIL MAHARAJ NICOLE SCHERER BRITTANY QUINTANA MARC BARRINGTON JAMES BEARSE JASEN ONO
RYAN T. DOHERTY | JUSTIN WENIGER President
MICHAEL SKENANDORE
Editorial Director
NICOLE ELY
Creative Director
SHERWIN YUMUL
Vice President, Marketing & Events Director of Strategic Partnerships
KEITH WHITE MICHAEL URIARTE
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VEGAS/RATED® IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF SANDOW MEDIA, LLC AND USED IN PARTNERSHIP WITH WENDOH MEDIA COMPANIES. VEGAS/RATED (ISSN 2162-6340) VOL. 5, NO. 1 IS PUBLISHED MONTHLY BY WENDOH MEDIA LAS VEGAS, NV.
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INTERIM MANAGING EDITOR Bascos hails from Chicago, where eating is often considered a sport. This is her fourth time at the helm of Vegas/Rated’s annual Food Issue. She dedicated “Eating Our Feelings” (p. 23) to those foods that hit the spot when nothing else will do. “First, yes, that’s Spam I’m holding,” Bascos says. “Second, we can’t eat fancy food all the time, and salad won’t cut it. Put your stretchy pants on and dig in.”
ANTHONY MAIR
PHOTOGRAPHER Mair’s aesthetic is infuenced by his travels throughout Europe, the United States and Asia. However, he refuses to let this worldliness or his current hometown of Las Vegas make him grow up unnecessarily, especially when he shot “$20 of Burgers” (p. 25). “I’m a big kid, and I love Lego. The idea of taking burgers onto a mini Lego construction site was an opportunity not to be missed! However, I could have lived without putting together thousands of pieces of Lego, but in the end, it was all worth it. A big thanks to each and every person who came to the studio with a bizarre look on their face when they saw what I was doing.”
SABIN ORR
PHOTOGRAPHER A St. Louis native and avid sports fan, Orr has been a professional photographer specializing in food and the culinary industry for advertising and editorial projects for nearly two decades. Orr shot “The Art of the Plate” (p. 44) feature, as well as “Tour de Dumpling” (p. 36) and “You Want Fries With That?” (p. 32) for this issue. “The comfort food was extremely challenging,” Orr says. “The concept, imagery and visible attraction all had to fow together. How do you take a grilled cheese, Buffalo wings and mac ’n’ cheese and glorify it into something badass? Special thanks to Amusespot for gathering all the props to pull this off.”
CARLOS LARIOS
PHOTOGRAPHER A longtime Las Vegas local and creative and marketing director, Larios has more than 15 years of experience in the nightlife and service industry. He is now focused on his passion for design and honing his talents as a commercial photographer— currently moonlighting as a contributor for Associated Press. This month, Larios got sweet on dessert for “Dark Matter” (p. 64). Except you probably won’t catch him eating much of it. “I’m allergic to everything,” he laughs. “But I tried to make each dish look as tasty as possible—even if I can’t eat them.”
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Not a Carbone Copy
Another New York legend plants itself smack dab in the center of the Strip. Greenwich Village favorite Carbone (chef Mario Carbone, pictured) pays homage to the classic 20th-century ItalianAmerican restaurant, complete with tableside service and pure showmanship. This won’t be a replica of the New York restaurant; rather, this is Carbone Vegas-style, with nods to our own glamorous Rat Pack era and dishes such as lobster fra diavola, chicken scarpariello and octopus pizzaiolo. Aria, 866.359.7111; aria.com
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Reinventing Reality
The Gold & Silver Pawn guys defnitely know how to build an empire. Just south of the shop’s location, Rick Harrison’s multilevel, colorful Pawn Plaza features 72 shipping containers assembled together. Within, he’s curated an eclectic assortment of businesses: There’s Smoke’s Poutinerie, Inna Gadda Di Pizza, Pawn Donuts, not to mention a fip fop shop and a collaboration with popular local ‘cue joint Rollin’ Smoke to make Rick’s Rollin’ Smoke BBQ and Tavern, where Harrison himself can be found slinging drinks on the weekends (a new trade he’s picked up). 725 Las Vegas Blvd. South, pawnplaza.com
PHOTOGRAPHY JON ESTRADA
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The party fry
Eschewing the standard fry format, the criss-cross fry is always a delightful surprise because of its uncommon oval shape and its lacy density. At Rockhouse, the criss-cross is a companion to sliders, tacos and dogs dressed with every topping imaginable. Served crisp and hot is the best way to enjoy this fry. Before consuming, coat in ranch and ketchup, and maybe even some chili for good measure. $7.95, Rockhouse, The Grand Canal Shoppes, 702.731.9683; therockhousebar.com
The best Stooge
The twisted ’taters serve as the base for BLT Burger’s Buffalo fries, topped with hot sauce and blue cheese. However, we prefer these curly fries naked. Crisp on the outside, creamy on the inside and seasoned with a kick, their corkscrew shape makes this the most fun way to eat a fried potato. $5, BLT Burger, The Mirage, 702.792.7888; mirage.com
Duck, duck, fries
For health’s sake, we may demand out loud that our fries be cooked in the purest of vegetable oils, but in the shadows we know they’re best after they’ve taken a dip in duck fat. Light and airy, Searsucker's fries are served with chipotle ketchup for a bit of smokiness with your crunch. $10, Searsucker, Caesars Palace, 702.866.1800; caesarspalace.com
Anchors aweigh
In an homage to the Anchor Bar where the Buffalo wing was invented, locals' favorite Born and Raised takes a golden brown beauty and dresses it with Buffalo hot sauce and blue cheese dressing. The addition of cheddar jack cheese adds a gooey element just for kicks. $7, Born and Raised, 7620 S. Cimarron Rd. and 10050 S. Eastern Ave.; bornandraisedlv.com
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Big and bold like the man himself
When Guy Fieri was a hungry student at UNLV, he made these fries out of necessity. This version is a little more grown-up. Curved like a curly fry but as dense as a wedge, the sidewinder is the perfect cut, with enough surface area to stand up to Fieri-approved flavors. It’s as bold as it gets, Buffalo seasoned and blue cheese-dressed, alongside more Buffalo and blue-sabi (a blue cheese and wasabi hybrid) sauces to dip in. $13, Guy Fieri Vegas Kitchen & Bar, The Linq, 702.794.3139; thelinq.com
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BY GRACE BASCOS PHOTOGRAPHY ANTHONY MAIR
Chef’s s’fehC Day yaD Out tuO even the pros admit they can’t eat their own brand of fancy food every day. We asked some of the top chefs in Las Vegas what they eat when they need a little dose of comfort
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Brian Howard Executive chef and owner, Grazing Pig Food Group
What shaped your idea of what comfort food is? Growing up, I was not exposed to many fresh ingredients or home cooking, but when I was, it was magical. Most of the time it was my grandmother who did all the cooking; she was the driving force behind me taking on cooking as a profession. I found comfort in any meal where the family sat together to dine. The idea of comfort food meant slow-cooked inexpensive cuts of meat, stews and a glimpse into my aunt’s Polish heritage, and the mostly peasant dishes she ate growing up. The weather also plays a role in what comfort food is for me. The frigid winters in Detroit allowed me to understand nourishment through food. I don’t care who you are, a giant bowl of beef chili on a cold day is nourishing and comforting in my book. Where do you go out for comfort food? The most comforting cuisine I head out for is Hawaiian. It’s all about family, so this does me justice. Island Flavor on Durango seems to be my favorite right now. I recommend the Kahlua pig, the lau lau and the hoisin-glazed ribs. What’s your guilty pleasure? I’m a sucker for red-sauce Italian. Hoisin-glazed ribs from Island Flavor, 8090 S. Durango, 702.876.2024
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Ronnie Rainwater Executive chef, Delmonico Steakhouse in grand canal shoppes
Favorite food memories: I grew up in Southern California, but my grandparents are from the South. My grandparents grew up in Tuscaloosa, Alabama. I remember going to my grandma’s house, which was kind of my frst inspiration for cooking—like a lot of chefs—and [Southern foods] were some of the things she would always have, whether it was greens or stewed black-eyed peas. She’d make gumbo on special occasions, and we’d have fried chicken and grits. It’s what I grew up with— those smells coming from the kitchen. Any other cuisines that hit the spot? Sometimes it’s Asian, like right now [it’s] ramen—get a big bowl of warm, rich broth and noodles—for me, that’s very comforting. I go to Jinya Ramen, [and] there’s a place near my house, Monta Chaya. Being able to sit and have your face in the bowl, chopsticks in one hand and spoon in the other— you’re just going [at] it, like digging into a big piece of fried chicken. What’s your guilty pleasure? I’m a burger guy, and In-N-Out has been my spot. In high school I walked there after football games because it was open. For whatever reason, I can eat In-N-Out to no end; usually it’s a 4x4 with grilled onions. There have been times when I’ve actually put down two of them. 4x4 from In-N-Out, various locations, in-n-out.com
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Devin Hashimoto Executive chef, Mizumi in wynn
What did you eat a lot of growing up? Growing up in Hawaii, I was very fortunate to have a mom who cooked a lot of meals, a lot of traditional Japanese food, comfort food, one-pot stews, sukiyaki, even basic udon noodles and soba. I was very fortunate. We focused on family together—it was nice. Who cooks when you’re not cooking? My wife cooks a lot at home; she’s a great cook. Beef stew is one thing I grew up with; my mom used to make it, and even when she comes to visit me, I ask her to make beef stew. She uses short ribs, and it’s better than just beef chuck. [There’s] a lot of flavor in the short ribs; basically, it’s carrots, onions and potatoes, but she just makes it really good. If you have to go out: We go to a Hawaiian plate lunch place. My favorite is Island Flavor on Warm Springs and Durango—that’s the best. I think it really exemplifies Hawaiian local style—the atmosphere, all the cooks can feel the aloha spirit, so they say; that really brings me back home. Any guilty pleasures? One of the things I love to eat is frozen custard—just simple plain vanilla. There’s a really good one, Nielsen’s, and Luv-It. The other night I bought a box of Drumsticks, a pack of ice cream cookie sandwiches and Häagen-Dazs. I came home and my wife said, “I thought you were just gonna have one,” and I said, “You gotta have variety.”
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Stephen Hopcraft Executive chef, STK in the cosmopolitan
What was your background growing up? I grew up in Cleveland, which is a cold area. I’d say summer grilling would definitely be part of my comfort food repertoire. The short rib on the menu is very similar to what I would do growing up—pot roasts and stuff like that. And then I spent [time] in Connecticut, where we were close to the ocean and would do prawns. The prawns on the menu are something that I’d consider comfort food. ... If you’re just hanging out on a Sunday at home? The go-to is: pick up a couple of sausages and throw them on the grill or get shrimp and throw it on the grill; whatever you can throw over the coals and turn over a couple of times and put on a plate without much fuss. I work in the kitchen 60-70 hours a week, so I don’t like to spend a lot of time in the kitchen on my day off. What’s your guilty pleasure? I like salt and vinegar potato chips and watching football, for sure, and peanut butter cookies. I don’t eat them at the same time. Bratwurst from Tina’s Gourmet Sausages, 2101 S. Decatur, 702.850.8333
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Benoit Cornet Corporate Chef, Southern Wine and Spirits
Fond food memories: It wouldn’t be comfort food without the family. It’s a big thing. Growing up, we all sat down at the table, all six of us, and we had a meal—there was no watching TV. The most entertainment we had was my mom’s 30-year-old radio in the kitchen, and we ate in the kitchen. The kitchen was a special room by itself, and we only ate there. What was your comfort food growing up? Veal and sausage-stuffed tomatoes, veal blanquette, tomato risotto—it wasn’t really a risotto, but my mom called it a risotto. She cooked it in a pressure cooker, and I don’t really know what she did. I tried to ask [for] her recipes, and she said it’s all by instinct. If I want it, I have to go home. What’s your guilty pleasure? I have to control myself around sweets. I’m not really into candy at all, but anything pastry, from croissants to Bouchon Bakery’s cheese Danish. I have a pastry chef in town who makes me those almond tarts during the January time of Epiphany. I love chocolate. During Easter, my parents would go to a chocolatier in town and get us the smallest bunny or hen in chocolate, and it was extremely good. We just nibbled on the ears, and that was enough. Pastries courtesy Rosallie Le French Café, 6090 S. Rainbow, 702.998.4121; rosallie.com
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Portofino The beauty of Mirage’s Italian restaurant is that it delivers on all those classic flavors you crave, but flips the switch when it comes to technique. The chicken rollatini parmesan goes for elegance, with chicken breast served ripieno style, or stuffed with dark-meat chicken sausage made in-house, before it’s breaded. Unlike other versions of the dish, the chicken doesn’t get masked under the sauce and cheese, but rather nestled into a cushion of it, then served with sautéed spinach and shavings of nutty parmesan cheese. $TK, Mirage, 866.339.4566; mirage.com
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te Soufflé
Soufflé is a dessert you probably don’t make at home, so when you order it, you want to be wowed. Hearthstone’s milk chocolate version doesn’t disappoint: Valrhona chocolate and crème anglaise form a pillowy and warm concoction that begs to be savored to the very last bite. This delicious goodness has a partner in crime: a Tahitian vanilla bean sauce that you pour on top. When your spoon scrapes the bottom of the dish, you might be tempted to re-create the experience at home, but you know that’s just wishful thinking. In Red Rock Casino, 702.797.7344; hearthstonelv.com
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Made L.V.
This is like camping for grownups, except you don’t have to deal with mosquitoes, pitching a tent or marshmallows falling off the stick. Made L.V.’s S’more Nachos are made with ingredients you’ve loved well since childhood—graham crackers, marshmallows, toffee fudge—all a-mess on a plate and no assembly required. Just let nature take its course, and feel free to lick your fingers afterward. In Tivoli Village, 450 S. Rampart, Suite 120, 702.722.2000; made-lv.com
NEVADA BALLET THEATRE PRESENTS
WHO CARES? ENTH SLAUGHTER ON T
AVENUE
SERENADE
Tickets as low as $29
Saturday, November 7 at 7:30 | Sunday, November 8 at 2:00
(702) 749-2000
or visit NevadaBallet.org Groups of 10 or more call (702) 243-2623 to save up to 30%
Slaughter on Tenth Avenue is supported in part by an award from the National Endowment for the Arts. Serenade, Slaughter on Tenth Avenue, and Who Cares? choreography by George Balanchine Š The George Balanchine Trust. Serenade photo by Virginia Trudeau. Slaughter on Tenth Avenue photo by Alexander Iziliaev, courtesy of Pennsylvania Ballet. Who Cares? photo by John Hanson.
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SPECIAL PROMOTION
ShowTime HOUSE OF BLUES AND FOUNDATION ROOM SPECIAL EVENTS THE STRIP
In Mandalay Bay, 702.632.6932; houseofblues.com/lasvegas Managing three distinct event spaces is no easy task, but Linda Sim is no average party planner. As director of sales and special events for Live Nation’s House of Blues and Foundation Room at Mandalay Bay, she has organized every type of celebration, from the Latin Grammy Awards to the Tiger Woods Foundation annual charity soiree. Sim and her team of five plan each fete from start-to-finish, including contracting, talent booking, marketing, designing the space and even curating menus. “It really is a logistical beast once you get into it,” she says. “I’d say [there are] over 100 details because you’re really taking everything step-by-step.” Born and raised in Las Vegas, Sim started off as an on-air personality for Hot 97, which led her to restaurant management and then on to sales and marketing for Red Bull, before landing in a marketing position at Tao Group. Along the way, she has made considerable connections. Sim’s impressive résumé has prepared her for the task of making House of Blues’ special event spaces the go-to for affairs both big and small. “[At first people may] think of concerts [when they hear] House of Blues or Foundation Room,” she says. But Sim says it’s her mission to change that, and she is willing to fully use the arsenal of amenities at her fingertips. If the function calls for live music, she says, “We can get whomever you want [for the right price].” Looking for an iconic Vegas location with a great scene? The Foundation Room is a top choice, literally. “You [just] can’t compete with the view we have at the Foundation Room.” JESSIE O’BRIEN / PHOTOGRAPHY ANTHONY MAIR
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SPECIAL PROMOTION
INSIDE HOUSE OF BLUES’ EVENT SPACES FOUNDATION ROOM
The 63rd floor of Mandalay Bay Resort & Casino features the luxurious 16,000-foot den known as the Foundation Room. Fine dining, a late-night lounge, a banquet room and a media center are all punctuated by breathtaking views of the Strip.
HOUSE OF BLUES MUSIC HALL This 1,900-person capacity, stateof-the-art venue offers a wide range of musical styles, including blues, rock, reggae, alternative, swing, Latin, zydeco and country. It’s home to local and national touring groups, including resident Carlos Santana.
CROSSROADS Adjacent to the Music Hall is a juke-joint-inspired restaurant where the specialty is House of Blues’ renowned Mississippi Delta-style cuisine. Ranging from 500- to 1,900-person-capacity and including the Crossroads Restaurant and House of Blues Music Hall, the venue has the ability to accommodate any style of private event, from tour groups to corporate to convention functions. It is located just off the resort’s casino floor.
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