d Ma Río
Rio Branco
o Iac Río
a un Ab o í R
re Ac Río
Inapari
Guajará-Mirim
Riberalta
Cobija
Río B eni
Puerto Maldonado
a
Parque Jungle & Río Yacum Nacional Pampas Tour Madidi
Peru
Rurrenbaque
Lago Titicaca
Puno
Lake Titicaca
Trinidad
ure Sec Río
Coroico
Río Gra nde
World’s Most Dangerous Road La Paz Tiwanaku Cordillera Real
Copacabana
Desaguadero
Río De sag ua de ro
Llo Tacna
Putre Arica
e par Cha Río
Juliaca
San Borja
ore Mam Río
Santa Ana
lo Pab San Río
Río Mamore
s Dio de e r d Ma Río
Cochabamba
Oruro
Carnaval de Oruro
Lago Poopo
Sucre Potosi
Salar de Uyuni
Iquique
Uyuni
Chile ELEVATION
a ay Pil o í R
2000 - 4000m
Villazon
1000 - 2000m
Tocopilla 500 - 1000m 0 - 500m
Tupiza Tarija
Calama
La Quiaca Tartagal
Argentina
LEGEND Primary Road Secondary Road N
Ji-Parana
Highlights Cities and Towns
Brazil
Scale
100 mi 160 km
lo Pab San Río
Río Iten ez
Vilhena
Río Juruena
Río Jamari
Ariquemes
Río Gu apore
lo e ab nd nP ra Sa oG Río Rí
Caceres
Jesuit Missions
Santa Rosa del Sara Montero
San Jose De Chiquitos
Santa Cruz
Robore Puerto Suarez Camiri
Corumba
Capitan General Pablo Lagerenza Eugenio A. Garay
Paraguay Mariscal Estigarribia
Río Paragual
e par Cha Río
Río Pa ra gu al
Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado
Tartagal Río Pil co ma yo
Concepción
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intro & info
Contents Regional Summaries Geography Flora and Fauna Climate History Politics Today’s Politics and Government Economy Population Language Religion Culture Holidays and Fiestas Social and Environmental Issues Before You Go Bolivia Facts Foreign Embassies and Consulates Insurance Getting To and Away Border Crossings Visa Regulations Getting Around Tours Sports and Recreation Hiking Climbing Rafting and Kayaking Mountain Biking Horseback Riding Birdwatching Wildlife Watching Studying Spanish Studying Quechua/Aymara Volunteering Working Living Lodging Food and Drink Shopping Minor Health Problems Major Health Problems Safety in Bolivia Media Money and Costs Etiquette Dress Doing Business and Dealing with Officialdom Responsible Tourism Photography Travel Tips Suggested Reading
La Paz and Around History When to Go Getting To and Away Getting Around Join VIVA on Facebook. Fan “VIVA Travel Guides Bolivia.”
9 12 13 13 14 15 16 16 17 17 18 19 23 25 26 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 34 36 37 38 38 38 39 40 41 41 42 42 42 43 43 45 47 48 49 50 52 54 56 56 56 57 57 57 60
62
62 63 63 67
Lake Titicaca History Highlights When to Go Getting Around Safety Things to See and Do Tours Lodging Restaurants Copacabana Isla del Sol Yumani Cha’llapampa Isla de la Luna Islas Huyñaymarka Around Lake Titicaca Huatajata Puerto Acosta Desaguadero Peruvian Side of Lake Titicaca Puno The Peruvian Islands of Lake Titicaca
The Northwest Highlights History When to Go Safety Things to See and Do Tours Lodging Coroico Around Coroico Tocaña El Choro Trek Caranavi Chulumani
68 70 72 79 79 81 83 83 83 85 92 98 105 106 107 107 109 110 110 112
114
114 115 115 115 116 116 116 116 117 117 125 127 129 129 130 130 131 132 132 133 133 142
146
147 147 148 148 148 148 149 149 156 156 157 159 160
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Safety Shopping Things to See and Do Studying Spanish Volunteering Tours Lodging Restaurants Nightlife The Center and El Prado Rosario, Calle Sagárnaga and San Pedro Sopocachi and San Jorge Miraflores Zona Sur Around La Paz Chalcataya El Alto Valle de la Luna Muebla del Diablo Tiwanaku (Tiahuanaco)
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intro & info
4
Around Chulumani Yunga Cruz Trek Takesi Trail Cordillera Real Sorata Around Sorata Illampu El Camino de Oro Mapiri Cordillera Apolobamba
Central Highlands Highlights History When to Go Safety Things to See and Do Tours Lodging Cochabamba Around Cochabamba Incaracay (Inca Rakay) Incallajta Parque Nacional Torotoro Villa Tunari and the Chapare Region Sucre Cordillera de Los Frailes Tarabuco Potosí Tarapaya
The Southwest
163 163 166 168 173 179 179 181 184 185
188
189 189 189 189 190 190 190 190 203 204 205 206 209 213 234 236 237 246
248
Highlights History When to Go Safety Things to See and Do Tours Lodging Oruro Crossing to Chile Parque Nacional Sajama Uyuni Salar de Uyuni Tupiza Around Tupiza San Vicente Villazón Tarija Around Tarija Bermejo
249 249 249 250 250 250 250 250 258 258 259 264 269 274 276 277 278 288
Santa Cruz and the Eastern Lowlands
292
Highlights History When to Go Safety Things to See and Do Tours Join VIVA on Facebook. Fan “VIVA Travel Guides Bolivia.”
293 293 294 294 294 294
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Amazon Basin Highlights History When to Go Safety Tours Lodging Rurrenabaque Parque Nacional Madidi San Borja Reserva de la Biosfera-Estación Biológica del Beni San Ignacio de Moxos Santa Ana del Yacuma Trinidad Around Trinidad Magdalena Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado Guayaramerín Riberalta Cobija
Index Traveler Advice Packing Lists Useful Contacts Useful Spanish Phrases
295 295 312 316 318 325 326 326 329 346 346
350
351 351 352 352 353 353 353 360 361 362 363 364 364 373 374 375 378 379 380
382
390 393 395 397
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Lodging Santa Cruz Buena Vista Parque Nacional Amboró Samaipata Villamontes Yacuiba Vallegrande Jesuit Missions Parque Nacional Kaa-iya del Gran Chaco The Bolivian Pantanal
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About the Writers After a spell working as a music journalist, Karen Hartburn’s wanderlust kicked in, taking her on far-flung adventures across the globe. Land-locked Bolivia couldn’t have been more different than her native England, but she fell in love with the country’s unique culture and vibe, and La Paz’s thin air, and spent a year as the editor of an English-language newspaper. Now back in the country as V!VA’s lead Bolivia writer, Karen brings four years experience working, studying and travelling in South America.
Margaret Rode hails from Chicago where she received BA degrees in English Literature and Spanish from North Park University. Her pins in the map include, but are not limited to: a train-traipse through Europe and southern Sweden, volunteering in the Dominican Republic and on Ecuador’s coast, and a roadtrip across the U.S. Her most recent explorations include Colombia, Peru, Bolivia, and Ecuador. Margaret wrote extensively for this book.
Upon graduating from university in the UK, Catherine Ellis embarked on an epic travel adventure to South America. Here she stumbled upon the opportunity to take part in VIVA’s Boot Camp and write about Boliva. From biking down the most dangerous road in the world, to ice-climbing and meeting the Bolivian President, her experiences were vast and varied. Apart from traveling and writing, Catherine enjoys nothing more than adventure sports and running marathons.
MANY THANKS TO: Emma Mueller, Melanie DePaulis, and Thomas Griffin—V!VA’s intern superheroes and Jesua Silva (map-maker extraordinaire); A special thank you to Paul Alulema and Pedro Vasconez, VIVA’s graphic wizards. Thanks also to Rigoberto Pinto and Cristian Avila, the programming masterminds who keep www.vivatravelguides.com running smoothly and are always willing to lend a hand to the not-socomputer-savvy staff; and to the whole Metamorf team for their support.
Our Contributors: Mia Douglas contributed Rurrenabaque coverage; Many Thanks also to the following for their contributions to this book: Crit Minster, Melanie DePaulis, Joanne Sykes, Emma Mueller, Amanda Loviza, Rick Segreda, Liz Kersjes, Rachel Anderson, Nili Larish and Daniel Johnson
COVER PHOTO CREDITS: ◊ Cover Design: Jason Halberstadt, 2010 ◊ ◊ Cover Photo: “Laguna Colorada” by Ray Ciborowski, 2009 ◊ The following photos are licensed under the Creative Commons license (see http://creativecommons.org/ licenses/by/2.0/ and http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/ for details): ◊ Cover Photo: “Albertina en el salar [jun 5]” by JavierPsilocybin ©, www.flickr.com/photos/santoposmoderno/, 2009 ◊ ◊ Back Cover Photo: “Young Girl with Wool in Niche of Cathedral Wall - Copacabana - Bolivia” by Adam Jones, Ph.D. ©, www.flickr.com/photos/adam_jones/, 2009 ◊
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About the Editors
Michelle Lillie is a staff editor/writer at V!VA. She holds a BA and MA in International Relations from Loyola University Chicago, and brings to V!VA some substantial globe-trotting experience. Michelle has not only traversed Europe, Asia, North Africa, Central and South America, but has also lived in Italy, Thailand and China. Michelle currently resides in Quito, Ecuador.
Nick Rosen is a staff-writer and editor for VIVA. He holds a BA in International Development from Montreal’s McGill University and has worked on public health projects in Kenya and Ghana. He maintains that nothing compares to the sublime beauty of his native New Jersey.
Mark Samcoe is a staff writer/editor at VIVA. Hailing from western Canada, Mark has degrees in Writing and English Literature from the University of Victoria. His travels include stints in Europe, South America and Asia, where he lived for several years in South Korea. He currently resides in Quito.
Jena Davison is an editorial intern at V!VA. Shortly after graduating from University of Wisconsin-Madison with a BA in Journalism and Mass Communication, Jena packed her backpack and headed across the equator to travel solo through South America. Born and raised in New Jersey, Jena’s itch for travel has previously brought her to 20 countries, mostly in Europe and Latin America. She currently lives in Quito, Ecuador.
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Paula Newton is V!VA’s operations expert. With an MBA and a background in New Media, Paula is the Editor-in-Chief and the organizing force behind the team. With an insatiable thirst for off-the-beaten-track travel, Paula has traveled extensively, especially in Europe and Asia, and has explored more than 30 countries. She currently lives in Quito.
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intro & info
About VIVA Travel Guides We began VIVA Travel Guides back in 2007 because we simply wanted a better travel guide to our home country of Ecuador. All the guidebooks at the time were years out of date and weren’t nearly as helpful as they should have been to real travelers. We knew we could do better. We asked the question: “What would the travel guidebook look like if it was invented today from the ground up in the era of Google, Facebook, Wikipedia and nearly ubiquitous Internet connectivity?” We concluded that the key to creating a superior guide is a knowledgeable community of travelers, on-the-ground professional travel writers, local experts and street-smart editors, all collaborating together on the web and working toward the goal of creating the most helpful, up-to-date guide available anywhere. Continuously Updated Traveler reports come in daily via the web and we take advantage of highly efficient ‘web to book’ technology and modern digital printing to speed the latest travel intelligence to the printed page in record time. We update our books at least once per year—more often than any other major publisher. We even print the date that each piece of information in the book was last updated so that you can make informed decisions about every detail of your trip. A Better Way to Build a Guidebook We’re convinced we make a better guidebook. It’s a more costly, painstaking way to make a guidebook, but we think it’s worth it, because you’re be able to get more out of your trip to Bolivia. There are many ways that you can get involved in making VIVA Travel Guides even better. Help other travelers by writing a review Did you love a place? Will you never return? Every destination in this guidebook is listed on our website with space for user ratings and reviews. Share your experiences, help out other travelers and let the world know what you think. Make corrections and suggestions Prices rise, good places go bad, and bad places go out of business. If you find something that needs to be updated or improved in this book, please let us know. Report any inaccuracies at www.vivatravelguides.com/corrections and we’ll incorporate them into our information within a few days. As a small token of our thanks for correcting an error or submitting a suggestion we’ll send you a coupon for 50 percent off any of our E-books or 20 percent off any of our printed books. Make your reservations at www.vivatravelguides.com You can support VIVA’s mission by reserving your hotels and flights at www.vivatravelguides. com. When you buy from our website, we get a commission, which we reinvest in making our guides a better resource for travelers. Find the best price on flights at www.vivatravelguides. com/flights and efficiently reserve your hotels and hostels at www.vivatravelguides.com/hotels. We sincerely hope you enjoy this book, and your trip to Bolivia even more. Happy Trails, Jason Halberstadt Founder, VIVA Travel Guides
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Regional Summaries La Paz (p. 62)
La Paz has Bolivia’s most interesting collection of museums and markets. Most of the city’s attractions are clustered around El Prado in the city center. Two rather unique La Paz attractions are the Coca Museum and the Witches’ Market. The latter is a sprawling marketplace selling everything from herbs to llama fetuses, all intended to cast, or protect from, magical spells. The city is also a great place to organize your travels in Bolivia. Tour agencies can organize your trips to any of Bolivia’s destinations, and La Paz is the best place to set up trips into the Yungas, Cordillera Real and Cordillera Apolobamba. Closer to town, the ruins at Tihuanaco and surreal landscape at Valle de la Luna make for excellent daytrips from the city.
Lake Titicaca (p. 114)
Long considered sacred by the Incas and others, Lake Titicaca is the first site that many visitors see in Bolivia. It is the centerpiece of a high-altitude region dotted with traditional Quechua and Aymara communities, pre-Columbian ruins and dazzling mountain peaks, and serves as a wonderful introduction to the country Enormous Lake Titicaca stretches for thousands of square kilometers within a huge Andean crater on the frontier between Bolivia and Peru, and is a must-see when visiting either country. It is one of the highest navigable lakes in the world, and its waters lap against wild shores, timeless fishing villages and hundreds of islands and islets. Many visitors to the area stop by Isla del Sol, where hiking trails and ancient Inca staircases link together indigenous villages and ancient ruins. Copacabana, the region’s hub, is a convenient base for exploring the area, and boasts beautiful lake views itself. It also has better infrastructure for tourists that just about every other town in the country.
The Northwest (p. 146)
An outdoor sports paradise, Bolivia’s Northwest contains natural splendors ranging from glacier-capped peaks to misty cloudforests and steamy jungle. Trekkers can follow ancient Inca paths that descend from the sierra to the rainforest, and bikers can make the same descent on the “World’s Most Dangerous Road.” Climbers will want to tackle the icy mountains of the Cordilleras Real and Apolobamba, with some of the highest mountains in the country. Rafters can take on the Class III and IV rapids on the Río Coroico. The Northwest is also a good area for relaxation and slow exploration. Coroico is a favorite chill-out spot for those who are weary of La Paz’s hustle and bustle. Sorata is also wellequipped to look after foreign visitors. Tocaña is the center of the fascinating Afro-Bolivian culture, and the surrounding communities make for fascinating excursions.
Central Highlands (p.188) The heart and soul of Bolivia, the Central Highlands encompass soaring mountains, verdant valleys and thick forests. The Spanish Empire’s greatest single source of wealth was the Cerro Rico mine, and the churches and colonial mansions of nearby Potosí and Sucre still display the opulence of that era. Both cities are UNESCO World Heritage Sites and draw thousands of visitors each year. Cochabamba, the region’s other major city, offers up a relaxed atmosphere and pleasant climate. The Central Highlands also reward those who stray from the main towns. Nature lovers will Find the best price on a flight to Bolivia: vivatravelguides.com/flights/
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Bolivia’s de facto capital, and its cultural hub, is the sky-high city of La Paz. While the city’s altitude may make you lethargic at first, La Paz has a frenetic energy, its streets abuzz with commerce. Once you muster up the energy, you should take advantage of the city’s hopping nightlife and growing backpacker scene.
intro & info
10
enjoy the numerous trekking opportunities in the Cordillera de los Frailes and Torotoro National Park. The Chupare area and Villa Tunari are surrounded by jungles that beckon to adventurous rafters, kayakers and hikers. Throughout the countryside of the Central Highlands, visitors will stumble upon dinosaur tracks, Incan ruins and traditional Quechua villages.
The Southwest: Salt Flats, Colored Lakes and Vineyards (p. 248)
Bolivia’s southwest has some of the strangest, harshest and wildest landscapes in the country, but the region bordering Chile and Argentina also hosts rolling hillsides, vineyards, Mediterranean-style villages and pleasant, sun-drenched cities. One of the country’s premier destinations, the salt flats at Salar de Uyuni, attracts most of the visitors to the region, but there a number of other things to see and do in the area. The Salar and nearby Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa are marked by blindingly white salt flats, otherworldly-colored lakes and steaming geysers. The area around Tupiza, once the final haunt of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid, still looks like something pulled from a Western, and visitors can hike or horseback ride through its red-rock canyons. The villages around Tarija produce most of Bolivia’s surprisingly good wine, aided by a warm and sunny climate. Bolivia’s biggest and best Carnaval celebration is held annually in the southwestern city of Oruro.
The Amazon Basin (p. 350)
Taking up almost 70 percent of the country’s landmass, Bolivia’s sparsely populated “Oriente” includes the northeast rainforest of Beni and Pando river valleys. Compared to other South American countries, the region has suffered relatively little deforestation, making it an excellent place to venture off the beaten track and into virgin jungle. Wildlife is abundant in this seemingly untouched area, so much so that the region includes two magnificent national parks- Madidi and Noel Kempff Mercado. What’s more, these parks have one of the planet’s highest biodiversity rates, with more species of birds, mammals and plant life combined than any comparable area in the world. Despite its remoteness, the Oriente is gradually becoming easier to access, although travel is very much dependent upon the season (during the rainy season from mid-December through March, many roads and air strips are impassable). The closest entry point to the Amazon is Rurrenabaque, though you can also fly to one of the region’s other towns—Trinidad, Reyes, San Borja, Santa Ana de Yacuma, San Joaquín, Magdalena, Guayaremín and Riberalta— which are served by flights from La Paz.
Santa Cruz and The Eastern Lowlands (p.292)
Untamed rainforests, dusty wilderness, endless savannahs and a cosmopolitan city with a very tropical vibe, Santa Cruz and The Eastern Lowlands represent an untapped, albeit worthy, traveler destination. The city of Santa Cruz is unlike any other in Bolivia, its vibe a strange mix of cosmopolitanism and frontier boom-town. While the city is bustling, the weather is warm and the mood is relaxed. It is a great place from which to explore the beautiful natural surroundings of the Eastern Lowlands. The Eastern Lowlands span from the foothills of the Andes and extend onward to Bolivia’s borders with Brazil (to the East), and Argentina and Paraguay (to the South). Its impressive natural environments, composed of rainforest, pantanal, savannah and scrubland, are protected in a series of national parks, including Amboró and Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco. Visitors looking for culture flock to the area’s Jesuit mission towns, where centuries-old churches host baroque and Renaissance music festivals. Updated: Feb 11, 2010.
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Introduction
Bolivia is often dubbed the most quintessentially South American country. Thanks in part to the harsh mountain landscapes and thick jungle that prevented large scale immigration by Europeans, the native peoples have held onto many of their traditions.
by savannah grasslands, the arid northern reaches of the Chaco Desert and the southwestern edge of the great Amazon Rainforest. Updated: Jun 18, 2009.
The high altitude of most Andean tourist sites makes it a tough place to travel, but the spectacular scenery more than makes up for this and keeps a steady stream of tourists trickling in. Bolivia is also the poorest country in South America, and the tourism infrastructure is not as developed as it is in some of its richer neighbors. However, with a bit of patience and a willingness to rough it a bit, Bolivia can be a very rewarding and affordable country to visit.
Geography
Landlocked and large (the size of the states of California and Texas combined, or twice the size of Spain), Bolivia takes up 1,098,581 square kilometers (424,164 square mi) of South America, and is bordered by Peru to the northwest, Brazil to the northeast, and Paraguay, Argentina and Chile in the south. The lack of coast is a bitter reality to Bolivians, as Chile only recently formalized its grip over the shoreline in the Atacama province. Since that territorial loss in 1930, it has been a constant concern to reclaim what was once Bolivia’s source of trade and commerce. Even today, President Evo Morales speaks of regaining at least a portion of the Pacific coastline. Bolivia boasts both the highest average altitude and the highest navigable lake in the world. It is a country full of dramatic extremes, from the tall Andes mountain range (with two cordilleras, “Oriental” along the Peruvian and Chilean borders and “Occidental” running down from Peru to Argentina) to the flat and vast Altiplano. It’s highest peak is Volcán Sajama (6,542 m / 21,463 ft) and its most notable asset is the commanding Lake Titicaca on the northern border. Bolivia is divided naturally by wildly different geographical regions. The west of the country is dominated by the Altiplano, a cold, high plain. Surrounding the plateau, the Bolivian Andes are some of the highest mountains in the Americas. Moving east from the highlands, you will find a transitional area called the Yungas, dominated by moist cloudforests. Bolivia’s eastern lowlands are characterized
Jimmy Harris
intro & info
Introduction
National Parks Over 15 percent of Bolivia’s landmass consists of national parks (parques nacionales, PN), national reserves (reservas nacionales, RN), and natural areas of integrated management (areas naturales de manejo integrado). While some parks are in the most remote areas of the country and require great time and expense to visit, travelers can pass through others without even knowing they’ve done so. The Reserva Nacional Eduardo Avaroa, for example, makes up a good potion of the area covered by the Uyuni and Tupiza Salar de Uyuni jeep tours. In all, there are over 60 protected natural areas, making up some of Bolivia’s most wild and precious outdoor environments. Visiting the parks can be an incredible way to see Bolivia at its finest; check with the Servicio Nacional de Áreas Protegidas (SERNAP, Av. 20 de Octubre 3659, La Paz, Tel: 591-2243-0881) for permission and fee details related to the individual areas. Below are some of Bolivia’s most popular protected areas, listed with their general location. - Parque Nacional y Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Serranía del Aguaragüe—The Southwest - Reserva Amazónica Nacional ManuripiHeath—The Amazon Basin - Parque Nacional y Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Amboró—The Eastern Lowlands - Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Apolobamba—The Northwest Reserva Biosfera Beni—The Amazon Basin - Parque Nacional Carrasco—The Central Highlands - Reserva Biosfera Cordillera del Sama—The Southwest - Parque Nacional y Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Cotapata—The Northwest
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Flora and Fauna
Flora and Fauna
Bolivia is one of the most biodiverse countries on the planet, containing between 30-40 percent of the world’s flora and fauna and a wide range of eco-systems—from Andean mountains to the Pantanal. Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbours, Bolivia shares much of the biodiversity found in Brazil and Peru, with the difference being that, in Bolivia, much of it is relatively untouched. Within Bolivia’s borders you can find more than half of the world’s neotropical bird species, over 3,000 types of butterfly, more than 300 types of fauna (35 percent of all animal species found in South America), an estimated 20,000 native plants, and 2,000 species of hardwood trees. Bolivia is considered to be the country with the 4th highest number of butterfly species in the world, and the 6th greatest diversity of birds. On top of this, around 16 percent of Bolivia’s territory is protected, and its national parks are world class. Parque Nacional Madidi, in the tropical rainforest, is one of the most biologically diverse protected areas in the world and houses over 1,000 species of birds. The Pantanal region, as well as PN Noel Kempff
Mercado, Amboró and other protected areas are unusually rich in biodiversity. The semi-tropical foothills, or Yungas, contain cloud forests packed with flora and fauna. A multitude of animals can be discovered here, including spectacled bears, jaguars, ocelots, tapirs and various types of monkey. In the skies you can see giant hummingbirds, whistling herons, ospreys, toucans and Bolivian military macaws. Ninety percent of Bolivia’s endemic fauna is found here and there’s a wide variety of native flora, including South American cedar and quinine. The Andean regions contain llamas, alpacas, vicuñas, Andean foxes, three types of flamingo and the magnificent Andean condor. Pumas also reign here, but are notoriously hard to spot. Almost 200 species of plant and tree grow in these inhospitable conditions, including totora, which is used to make reed boats, and yareta, a slow-growing plant used by locals as fuel. The Eastern Lowlands curve around the Andean mountain range bringing a mix of dry forests, gentle rolling hills, savannahs, swamps and flat tropical rainforests. Puma, jaguar, tapir, sloth, armadillo, coati and capybara are found in this region, as are a variety of monkeys, including the spider and red howler. Birdlife is abundant here and includes several types of eagle, fascinated tiger herons, buff-necked ibis, storks and rare species of macaw and parakeet. In the Amazon, pink river dolphins, piranhas, anacondas and caiman dominate the waters. Updated: Oct 11, 2008.
Climate
As is the case with the rest of the countries in South America, the climate in Bolivia is quite varied as you go from region to region. Much of the Eastern Lowlands are part of the Amazon jungle system, and feature the typical rainforest climate: hot, humid and wet. The Eastern Lowlands also include the dry Chaco Desert and rolling grasslands characterized by high temperatures and seasonal rains. Most of the rest of Bolivia is quite high up. Cities and towns in the mountains and Altiplano are located at 3,000-4,000 meters (about 10,000-13,000 ft). At these altitudes, the air is thin and the weather can be quite chilly: you’ll need a warm jacket and perhaps a hat and some gloves, especially if you plan to spend much time outdoors.
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- Reserva Nacional de Fauna Andina Eduardo Avaroa—The Southwest - Área Natural de Manejo Integrado El Palmar—The Central Highlands - Parque Nacional y Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Iñao—The Central Highlands Parque Nacional y Territorio Indígena Isiboro Sécure—The Central Highlands - Parque Nacional y Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Kaa-Iya del Gran Chaco—The Eastern Lowlands - Parque Nacional y Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Madidi—The Northwest - Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado— The Amazon Basin - Parque Nacional y Área Natural de Manejo Integrado Otuquis—The Eastern Lowlands - Reserva Biosfera Pilón Lajas—The Amazon Basin - Parque Nacional Sajama—The Southwest - Área Natural de Manejo Integrado San Matías—The Amazon Basin - Parque Nacional Torotoro—The Central Highlands - Parque Nacional Tunari—The Central Highlands. Updated: Nov 03,2009.
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History
intro & info
In between the Jungle Lowlands and the frigid Lake Titicaca and La Paz is a wide range of different climates and eco-systems, including cloud forests and low-altitude mountain ranges. The rainy season in Bolivia is from December to March, and it is suggested to visit during the rest of the year if at all possible. In terms of packing for Bolivia, let your itinerary be your guide. If you won’t be going to the jungle or climbing in the Andes, you’ll want warm clothing which you can put on in layers. If you’re going to the jungle, you’ll want lightweight, long-sleeved shirts and pants, preferably made of a material that dries quickly and is easy to clean. If you’re hiking in the high Andes, you’ll want some high-quality coldweather gear: the mountains are rugged, cold and unforgiving. Updated: Mar 01, 2007.
History Pre-Columbian History The area that comprises present-day Bolivia was populated long before the arrival of the Spanish in the 1530s. Parts of the region were inhabited for centuries before the arrival of the Inca, the most powerful being the Tiwanaku (Tiahuanaco) civilization, which emerged around 400 AD. Its capital city was situated close to Lake Titicaca and the empire continued to expand in scope and power over seven centuries. Tiwanaku remained a dominant force in the region until about 1200 AD, when it is speculated that drought-like conditions caused the agricultural-based society to collapse into regional Aymara kingdoms. The Inca, whose empire stretched from northern Chile in the south to Ecuador in the north and Bolivia in the east, became
the next major force in the region beginning around the early-15th century. The highlands were an important part of the Inca Empire, because the Inca considered Lake Titicaca to be sacred. The Aymara kingdoms were conquered by the Inca, though they were able to maintain their language, religion, culture and overall organization for some time under Inca rule. The Aymara unsuccessfuly rebelled a few decades after the Inca conquest, and as a result lost much of their autonomy. Elsewhere in the highlands, the Inca introduced Quechua, which continues to spoken today. In Bolivia’s eastern Yungas and lowlands, meanwhile, the Inca had difficulty asserting any control over the local tribes. Colonial bolivia Conquistadors arrived in Bolivia from Peru, and by 1533 the Spanish had established dominion over most of what came to be known as Upper Peru. In pursuit of precious metals, the Spaniards soon discovered a rich vein of silver in one of Bolivia’s mountains, and a small settlement, Potosí, was founded nearby. Potosí would eventually become one of the most productive and important mining towns in history. The settlement boomed and the mountain was stripped for silver by indigenous laborers who toiled under unspeakable conditions. Many died while working in the mines, and many more perished as a result of mercury poisoning. The mountain itself came to be known as Cerro Rico, or Rich Hill. The famous Spanish “pieces of eight,” or silver eight-real coins, were minted from Potosí silver, and the earnings from the Potosí mine fueled Spain’s economy for years. The city of Sucre was founded as a transport and supply hub near the mine, and quickly become the administrative and economic center of the region.
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Politics
independence Although Bolivia was one of the first nations in South America to declare independence from Spain in 1809, the struggle lasted a long time, and it was not until 1825 that Bolivia had official independence and a central government. Bolivia was named for Simón Bolívar, leader of the South American independence movement. Bolívar was also the first president of the new republic—though only for a few months—and was especially influential in the creation of the Bolivian constitution. The country that Bolívar briefly inherited was in shambles from the war for independence; it was suffering from international debt, failing industries and conflicting political ideologies. Antonio José de Sucre was the first elected president in 1826, but was met with strong opposition and was even the target of an assassination attempt, leading to his voluntarily resignation in 1828. The next major political influence in Bolivia was Andrés de Santa Cruz, who managed to establish some semblance of stability in the government and economy. In 1836, Peru and Bolivia joined into a confederation under Santa Cruz’s leadership and soon entered into a war with Chile and Argentina, which Peru-Bolivia lost. The confederation fell apart in 1839, and in 1841, Peru invaded Bolivia but was driven back. Bolivian forces pressed the attack and captured the Peruvian port of Arica. In 1879, the War of the Pacific broke out between Chile and the allied forces of Peru and Boliva, and it raged until 1883. In the war, Bolivia lost its access to the Pacific to Chile, and it has remained landlocked ever since. Later, Bolivia lost another of its provinces, Acre, when Brazil persuaded the locals to secede and join Brazil in 1903. Bolivia lost its southeastern corner in 1935, after being defeated by Paraguay in the Chaco War. Not all of Bolivia’s troubles have fallen outside its borders. In 1920, a swath of the indigenous population rebelled, and in 1933
an uprising by tin miners was violently put down by the government. Bolivia has seen numerous coups, including notable ones in 1952, 1964, 1969, 1971 and 1980. Bolivia was an attractive spot for revolutionaries, as well, and Ernesto “Che” Guevara was killed here while trying to organize a communist guerrilla movement. The country experienced a series of intermittent military governments throughout this period, until Hernán Siles Zuazo became president for the second time in 1982. Many of these governments were notorious for extreme corruption, human rights violations and narcotics trafficking. bolivia in the new millenium In recent decades, coca production in Bolivia has increased, resulting in the emergence of both drug cartels and coca-growers’ unions as political forces. In 2001, Bolivian farmers rejected a governmental offer of $900 per year to destroy existing coca crops and not grow any in the future. The year 2003 marked the beginning of the so-called Bolivian gas conflict, pitting the investment-friendly government against civil society groups seeking to stop what they saw as foreign exploitation of the country’s natural gas resrves (the second largest in South America). Two years later, this roiling conflict boiled over in the form of massive protests by tens of thousands of angry Bolivians (mostly peasants, indigenous people and miners) who demanded nationalization of the gas industry. The president, Carlos Mesa, was forced to resign, paving the way for the election of Evo Morales in 2005.
Politics
The Republic of Bolivia is a democratic republic, with a president, congress and an independent legislative branch. Bolivia’s most recent constitution went into effect in 2009, after it was passed in a national referendum and signed by Morales. The president, head of the executive branch, is elected to a fiveyear term and can be re-elected, although historically Bolivian heads of state do not always finish their terms (Bolivia has had six presidents since 2001). The legislative branch is formed by two houses, a 30-seat Senate and a 130-seat House of Representatives. Like the president, senators and representatives are elected to five-year terms. The Judicial branch consists of a supreme court, nominated to ten-year terms by the congress, and a number of lower courts. La Paz is the administrative and de facto capital, while Sucre is the constitutional capital.
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intro & info
Upper Peru was administered as part of the Viceroyalty of Peru until 1776, when it was transferred to the Viceroyalty of La Plata, administered from Buenos Aires. La Paz was settled in 1548, and by 1800, La Paz had become the largest city in Upper Peru. As the profits from Cerro Rico declined, power shifted from Sucre to La Paz, and the latter soon emerged as the administrative capital.
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Today’s Politics and Government
Since 2005, Bolivian politics have been firmly in the hands of president Evo Morales, who was elected with a roughly 2-to-1 margin over his nearest opponent. His Movement Toward Socialism Party (Movimiento al Socialismo, or MAS), a left-wing organization, also controls congress. Updated: Mar 05, 2010.
Today’s Politics and Government Evo Morales is the country’s first president of indigenous extraction, and is one of the Latin American leaders closely allied with Venezuela’s Hugo Chavez. The Movement Toward Socialism Party, and Morales in particular, has garnered most of its support from the poor, indigenous population of the Altiplano and cities like La Paz and El Alto. He was re-elected in a landslide in December 2009 and is expected to push his reformist agenda. Major political issues during the Morales administration have included indigenous rights, the nationalization of natural gas and the promotion of coca growing in Bolivia. One of Morales’s important initiatives is a move to give indigenous groups more autonomy. While the legislature has not passed the bills yet, it is anticipated that Bolivia will set a precedent for indigenous rights and autonomy in South America. One of Morales’ biggest problems has been rebellious eastern provinces. As Morales tries to redistribute Bolivia’s wealth, it is the richer eastern provinces that will foot the bill for impoverished highland areas. Some eastern provinces have threatened to assume autonomy rather than give away farmland and wealth to poorer Bolivians. Updated: Dec 14, 2009. Bolivia is one of the poorest countries of Latin America, with more than 40 percent of the population living on less than $2 per Tiwanaku civilization stretches its borders into the Yungas, expanding its size, population and regional power.
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Yesterday Economic production grew steadily at a rate of around five percent during the 1960s and 1970s, but after the oil shock of the 1980s, inflation ran out of control. Despite the ‘capitalization’ reforms of the 1990s, which were designed to spur private investment, stimulate economic growth and cut poverty rates, by 2001 unemployment was rising every day and the economy was contracting. Protests were held over the planned privatization of the Cochabamba water utility in 2000, and again in 2003 in opposition to exporting gas though Chile. In 2005, debt relief from the G8 significantly reduced Bolivia’s public sector debt burden. Today Bolivia is now energy self-sufficient and produces more electricity than it can consume. Unfortunately, the service and tourist industries remains largely undeveloped and the country is plagued by continued instability. In August 2008, violent clashes erupted between supporters of President Evo Morales, typically indigenous Bolivians from the western provinces, and the eastern ‘richer, paler’ opposition supporters, over increased state control of the economy, plans to redistribute land and divert gas revenues from the eastern provinces into a state pension. Updated: Jun 24, 2009.
The Quechua-speaking Incas come to dominate what is now Bolivia only 75 years before the Spaniards arrive.
1470
The Tiwanku civilization fractures into small Aymara kingdoms.
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day. Private investment is the lowest across the continent, and corruption and inflation are unrestrained. A historic reliance on single trading commodities has resulted in a lack of economic diversification, keeping the country weak and underdeveloped. Low life expectancy together with a falling birth rate has restricted the growth of industries. Political instability and the uncharitable terrain have hindered improvements in the agricultural sector. The country’s exports are dominated by the mining industry—previously tin and silver, now gold, zinc and natural gas.
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1538 The Spanish conquer Bolivia, which becomes part of the Viceroyalty of Peru.
Population
Population
Language
Bolivia has three official languages: Spanish, Quechua and Aymara. Spanish is spoken by roughly 5.8 million Bolivians (approximately 60 percent of the population claim it as their primary language), followed by Quechua (around two and a half million speakers) and Aymara (1.5 million). Quechua is spoken in South-Central Bolivia, and Aymara in the west. Spanish is spoken all over.
Linguists believe that there are more than 30 languages spoken in Bolivia, with numerous indigenous dialects that relate to tribe, region and descent. Unofficial languages range from Guaraní, spoken by roughly 60,000 Bolivians, to the nearly extinct Baure language, spoken by approximately 13 Bolivians (yes, you read that right, 13) in a remote corner of Beni province. Updated: Mar 13, 2007. Spanish As in most of South America, Spanish dominates as Bolivia’s primary language. Despite the extremely high indigenous population here, the 16th-century colonization did establish Spanish as the language of education and goverment. Spanish in Bolivia is distinctly Andean. This is to say that it is spoken slowly, the accent creates long words, stressing vowels and not
Coca For centuries Bolivians have chewed on coca leaves and brewed its tea to supress hunger, illness and fatigue; its advocates claim it contains essential minerals and nutrients and could even help combat obesity. But since the explosion of the illegal cocaine market in the 1980s (drawing in between $600 million and $1 billion annually), the plant has come under fire from anti-narcotics agencies and countries of which the U.S. has been its most vehement enemy. Since the 1961 U.N. Single Convention on Narcotic Drugs, coca itself has been classified an illegal substance as harmful as cocaine or heroin. Today, anti-narcotic forces destroy up to seven ditches filled with coca leaves a day in the Chapare region of Bolivia, the primary coca-cultivating area in the country. Bolivian President Evo Morales and many others see this classification as a historical error that needs to be corrected. He endorses
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Bolivia becomes independent with Simón Bolívar as its president, after he liberates the country from Spanish rule.
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Famed American outlaws Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid come to Bolivia, where they are gunned down by Bolivian soldiers after robbing a mine.
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U.S. officials, skeptical that coca plants can be grown in Bolivia without increasing the manufacture of its cocaine byproduct, insist upon eradication. Officials from other countries in the Americas also have expressed concerns that Morales’ plans will lead to increased gun-related violence fueled by the cocaine trade on their own streets. Updated: March 05, 2010.
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The city of Potosí, grows to surpass Seville, Madrid, Rome and Paris in population.
the slogan “Coca is not Cocaine” and has sought to have the leaf’s status changed in the U.N. A long-time leader of the cocaleros (coca farmers), Morales argues that farming coca plants is an enormous source of employment and income for Bolivian families, and that they cannot make nearly as much money harvesting oranges or coffee. Bolivia is the poorest country in South America, and the coca plant, as the source for cocaine, has become the cash crop of the country, bringing in millions of dollars to the economy’s informal sector.
1928 Oil is discovered in the foothills of the Andes in the western Bolivian region of the Chaco.
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intro & info
The population of Bolivia is 9.7 million (2009), with an annual population growth of 1.78 percent (2009). The population is considerably more indigenous than other South American countries. Ethnic groups include mestizo—mixed Amerindian and white (30%), Quechua (30%), Aymara (25%) and white (15%). Updated: Feb 22, 2010.
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Religion
Quechua Quechua is spoken throughout most of the Andes, mainly by indigenous peoples in Argentina, Chile, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru and of course, Bolivia—host to the largest Quechaspeaking population in the world. There are some 10 million total speakers and around 46 different dialects; it is considered the most widely used language in the Americas’ indigenous community. In Bolivia, you will most often hear Quechua in the highlands, though there are some linguistic outposts in lowland Amazon Basin areas—a consequence of migration, rather than origin. It is believed that Quechua most likely began in Central Peru, in the inland mountains at about the same latitude as Lima, and spread both north and south throughout the first and second centuries. With expansion of the Quechua-speaking Inca in the 1400s and late 1500s, the language spread to the far corners of the empire. There was a time when Quechua looked as if extinction was not far off, as it is largely unwritten,
a predominately rural language that was losing out to Spanish influence over time. However, the last 40 years or so have seen strong indigenous movements and political support for a revival of the indigenous language. Aymara Like Quechua, Aymara is a traditional, indigenous language experiencing a modern renaissance. With the current, indigenous president Evo Morales, elements of Aymara culture (such as the coca leaf, tribal gods and the language itself) have been brought to the forefront of Bolivian culture as a whole. Previously, Aymara, along with some 30 other indigenous languages, was introduced and officially recognized in schools throughout Bolivia in the 1994 National Education Reform. While traveling throughout the country, you will be surprised by Aymara’s prevalence in local lives. This could be because the main concentration of Aymara communities (and thus, Aymara-speaking Bolivians), is in the frequently visited area of Lake Titicaca and its lowland Altiplano basin (through Río Desaguadero and into Lago Poopo). There are some 2 million Aymara-speakers in all of Bolivia (as well as 500,000 in Peru and 20,000 in Chile). Updated: Jun 18,2009.
Religion
Bolivia, like the rest of South America, is predominantly Roman Catholic. Ninety-five percent of the population lists their religion as Roman Catholic, although not everyone attends services regularly, and Catholic practices tend to take on a decidedly indigenous and syncretic cast. During the colonial era, church and state were very closely linked under the Spanish colonial system. Since independence, Bolivians have taken many steps to put some distance
Bolivia goes to war with Paraguay in what is known as The Chaco War. The dispute centers on the supposedly oil-rich area of Chaco. Ironically, it later became evident that there were no actual oil resources in the Chaco region.
1967—Oct. 9
1952-1956
Victor Paz Estensorro, founder of the National Revolutionary Movement, serves his first of four terms as Bolivian president. Latin American guerrilla leader Ernesto “Che” Guevara begins organizing the National Liberation Army in Bolivia.
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1932-1935
Che Guevara is executed while attempting to incite revolution in Bolivia.
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cutting out syllables or sounds, as other Spanish dialects do. While Spanish slang is affected by surrounding countries (You may notice the Argentinean “sh” or Colombian “j” for the basic “ll” sound), most of the language here is pure highland pronunciation and thus a good spot to start learning. For new speakers, or even experienced speakers not accustomed to the regional accent, it’s helpful to know a few Bolivian Spanish tricks. First, Bolivians use the diminutive suffix (“-ito” or “-ita”) on practically every other word. It’s likely you will get used to hearing aguita for water and pesito when talking about currency. Also, some Bolivians have a habit of confusing or omitting articles (example: “el” or “la” for “the”), since the Aymara language does not use them. For speakers who use Spanish as a second language (Aymara as the first), the usage can be a bit confusing.
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1971-1978 Colonel Hugo Banzer Suarez rules Bolivia as the military dictator.
Culture
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between church and state. In 1906, the government of Bolivia officially allowed other religions into the nation, although the official religion remained, and remains, Catholicism. The remaining five percent of the Bolivian population is affiliated with a variety of religions, most of which have sent missionaries to Bolivia in the last few decades, such as Mormons, Seventh-day Adventists and Jehovah’s Witnesses, although there are also small communities of Jews and Mennonites that have been around for a long time. Updated: Mar 13, 2007.
Culture
In Bolivia, you can find art everywhere. The country’s rich artistic tradition is exhibited not only in museums, but also in the architecture, clothing and local craftwork. Spanning back to the pre-Columbian era with the Aymara people of the Bolivian Altiplano, and continuing on through to the Inca invasion and the subsequent Spanish conquest, Bolivian art has undergone a number of transformations that beautifully reflect the complex history and culture of the country.
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Socialist leader Evo Morales wins presidential elections. He becomes the first indigenous Bolivian to take office.
2005-December
2003-September-October Eighty killed and hundreds injured in protests fueled by government plans to export natural gas via Chile.
Morales wins the majority of the vote to be re-elected as President of Bolivia.
2009—Dec. 6
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Today, descendents of early indigenous groups continue to practice the weaving
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Hernan Siles Zuazo (1913-1996) becomes Bolivian president again and restores democracy after 18 years of military rule.
Textiles The practice of weaving in Bolivia goes back to ancient times, long before the first conquistador, or even the first Inca, arrived in the country. Early inhabitants of the Bolivian Altiplano and the Lake Titicaca Basin began the practice of weaving to fulfill a basic need: clothing. The meaning of the practice changed, however, as populations grew and techniques became more advanced. Clothing soon served not only to keep people warm on those cold Andean nights, but also to define social status and traditional roles within a community. Whereas clothing indicative of a higher status would be very colorful with ornate designs displaying important cultural figures or symbols, lower class garments were plainer and less ostentatious.
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Art
Paula Newton
It is nearly impossible to go to Bolivia without being fully immersed in its vibrant culture. While Bolivia’s culture displays innumerable Spanish influences, no country in South America is bound more tightly to its indigenous traditions than Bolivia. This becomes clear as you explore the country’s dress, art, music and dance. Walking among the women in their centuries-old indigenous dress will make you feel as if you are in a different era and will remind you that so many of these cultural customs still remain essentially unchanged by the modern world. Andean music, a trademark of Bolivian culture, is equally well-preserved and can be enjoyed during festivals and at nightclubs called peñas. Updated: Feb 17, 2010.
Oil is discovered in the foothills Bolivian voters approve the new constitution proposed by Morales. It is signed into law.livian region of the Chaco.
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intro & info
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Art
traditions they learned from their ancestors using alpaca, llama, vicuña or sheep´s wool, to create beautiful bags, shawls, blankets, skirts, hats, belts and other items. Certain symbols, designs, and colors tell distinct stories and are representative of particular villages or communities. When purchasing textiles it may be worth your while asking about the cultural significance of your particular garment. Fine Arts It’s no secret that the fine arts of Bolivia take second place to the country’s famous textiles and crafts, but they did indeed play an important role in Bolivia’s history. With the arrival of the Spanish came art forms previously unknown to the Americas—specifically, painting and sculpture. The subject matter of earlier pieces is almost exclusively religious, as the Europeans endeavored to spread the Christian faith throughout the region. As time passed and the mestizo population grew, subject matters and stylistic techniques began to change, resulting in a fusion of Spanish and indigenous cultures. Many 15th- and 16th-century artists would depict prominent Christian figures and scenes and incorporate them into the Andean landscape, effectively creating an artistic style unique to the area. Twentieth-century painters moved farther away from the European sphere of influence, as local figures, landscapes and scenes began to dominate the subject matter. In the 1930s, Bolivian art got caught up in the widespread indigenist movement in South America, and many artists began to depict the ongoing struggle of the indigenous population, hoping to give a voice to the marginalized and the oppressed. Today, Bolivian art continues to exhibit many of the same themes with the employment of various techniques and styles. Other Crafts Jewelry, metalwork, pottery and woodcarvings are among the crafts you’re likely to find while in Bolivia. As more than half of Bolivia’s total population identifies as indigenous, much of the local craftwork or, artesanía, is heavily influenced and inspired by the indigenous culture. Most crafts refer back to earlier times, replicating the pre-Columbian artifacts that are found in museums. Typically, crafts will depict ancient religious symbols and iconography of the area. But while some crafts are indeed handmade
(hecho a mano), advances in technology have resulted in the greater use of modern tools and production techniques, so look for tiny imperfections to validate authenticity. Updated: Jul 13 ,2009. Architecture Unfortunately, looting and the less-than-favorable environmental conditions have contributed to the loss of many pre-Columbian structures in Bolivia. That said, there are a number of stone and adobe ruins left over from the glory days of the Inca and their predecessors. Inca architecture is admittedly less common here than in Peru, but many branches of the Inca road system pass through Bolivia, and there are a number of sites that offer a glimpse at the famous Inca stonework. You will also find dozens of fascinating pre-Inca ruins scattered throughout Bolivia. On the southeastern shores of Lake Titicaca visitors can find ruins from the Tiwanaku Empire. Important Tiwanaku constructions were typically monumental stone structures, often consisting of large gateways, platforms and sunken courts. Much of the stone is carved out with religious iconography displaying sacred animals and beings. The figure of the “staffed god” is perhaps the most prevalent image found among the ruins. Other noteworthy ruins include the pre-Inca temple El Fuerte of Samaipata, the pre-Inca Mollo city of Iskanwaya and the Inca site of Incallacta, east of Cochabamba. While a number of smaller buildings and houses have survived from the colonial era, most of the remaining colonial architecture in Bolivia is religious. Earlier churches are simpler in style, often made with adobe, while later models are much more ornate. In the late 17th century the architecture started to stray away from exclusively European styles and began to incorporate local indigenous iconography and symbols. Check out the San Lorenzo church of Potosí, for instance, to see how the European and the Indigenous influences combine to create a uniquely mestizo style of architecture and design. The syncretic architectural style carried into the 20th century. La Paz native, Emilio Villanueva, studied engineering and architecture in Chile and is the founder of the school of architecture in the Universidad de La Paz. He also designed a number of noteworthy buildings in the city such as the Hospital
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Dance
In bigger Bolivian cities, the architecture is much like that of any other city, with skyscrapers and large office buildings. Although many homes are simple in style, others are heavily influenced by the Spanish presence. In smaller highland villages and communities the houses are more functional than extravagant, with mud or adobe walls and dirt floors. Updated: Jul 17, 2009. Music Music is an integral part of Bolivia’s Andean culture. The Bolivian people use music to celebrate every major event, and the streets never lack for musical entertainment. Throughout the country, songs are written and performed in honor of different festivals, rituals and important agricultural events. The music is entwined with dances, and while traveling throughout Bolivia you will see a new band in every neighborhood, often accompanied by lively dancers in colorful twirling skirts. The importance of music and Bolivians’ love for their music is especially prominent during Carnaval and other major festivals. Each region of Bolivia has a uniquely distinct style of music, much of which still strongly reflects its pre-Inca heritage. Bolivia has an abundance of traditional instruments that date back to before the Spanish conquest. Probably the most well-known are the panpipes. Panpipes are made of bamboo tubes, tied together in a row or a double row. Quenas, also traditional of the Andeans, are simple flutes made from bamboo. The famous tiny Andean guitar, the charango, is made out of an armadillo shell and has twelve strings. Other typical instruments you should check out include tarkas, pinquillos and moseños. In western Bolivia, the music strongly reflects the population’s indigenous, Andean roots. Much of the music focuses on retelling the legends of the Aymara, Quechua, and Tiahuanacota peoples. Panpipes, flutes, guitars and drums abound, and the music can range from melancholy to extremely high-spirited.
The most popular dances that accompany music in western Bolivia are the caporal, tinku, cueca, cumbia and the saya. In Amazonian eastern Bolivia, there is a noticeable difference in musical style. The music is lively and always accompanied by a festive dance, but it does not have the Andean influences that are found in western Bolivia. Some of these eastern styles are typical of the Guaraní, Ayoreos and other indigenous cultures from the region, but a significant portion of eastern Bolivia was actually influenced by the Jesuits. In the late 1500s, when the Jesuits arrived in Chiquitania, a large area in eastern Bolivia, they brought with them the classical music that was thriving in Europe during that time. Today, you will still find the Chiquitanos making violins and performing their Baroque music in different parts of the world. Bolivia has not remained untouched by modern music, however. As far as international influence, Bolivians are generally more drawn to European music than American music. Within Bolivia’s borders, a significant amount of rock groups have popped up in recent years, and some of them have even gained international recognition. Bolivian music gained its greatest international fame not through one of its native bands, but actually through Simon and Garfunkel. The American duo translated the well-known Bolivian song, “El Cóndor Pasa,” into English lyrics and made it an international hit. Internationally recognized Bolivian bands include Los Jairas, Wara, Savia Andina, Los K’jarkas and Grupo Aymara. In general, Andean groups catering to tourists gain a greater international reputation, giving the world the perception that all Bolivian music is strictly Andean. Emma Junaro became one of Bolivia’s most famous singers when she transformed Chile’s nueva canción into canto nuevo, a musical style comprised of harmonized singing and a blend of Andean and Latin instruments. Updated: Dec 07, 2009.
Dance
Bolivians love to dance. Traditional dances performed in annual carnivals and festivals are known to last for hours on end. Most dances, which have been passed down and performed for centuries, celebrate religious events or help to tell the story of a culture or community. Others are simply for fun. Regardless of whether you’re a hip-shaking salsa
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intro & info
General (1916-25), the Banco Central de Bolivia (1926), the 13-story tower of the Universidad Mayor de San Andes (1941-8) and the Hernando Siles Stadium in La Paz (1942, dest. 1975). Although much of his earlier work is French influenced, his later designs incorporate pre-Inca styles and concepts.
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expert, or more of a wallflower, the world of Bolivian dance has got something for you. Most dances take place during annual celebrations and can be linked to specific groups or communities. Perhaps the most famous dance is the huayno, an ancient Andean highland dance during which couples dance arm in arm in procession. The dancers wear extremely colorful and ornate costumes, so heavily decorated that they can often weigh as much as a teenager! The morenada is a dance thought to originate with the black slaves brought to Bolvia to work in the mines and metal production centers. The dancers wear dark masks that often have long, thirsty tongues spilling out of them. Another favorite is the kullawada, a dance hailing from the Lake Titicaca region, depicting the proud legacy of weaving in the region. The list of indigenous dances in Bolivia is endless, and way too long to fit here. Comparsas are large groups of dancers who typically perform in front of an audience. Their dances are choreographed to specific music and the dancers wear specialized costumes. There are a number of comparsa dances that draw from the colonial period, in which the natives parody their European masters, dressing as old men with glasses and long beards. Other dances portray ancient indigenous activities, such as weaving, hunting or working in the fields. Some dances are significantly more influenced by the Spanish presence in Bolivia. The cueca, for instance, is quite similar to the Spanish fandango. The cueca dancers perform a sort of courting ritual where the male repeatedly attempts to win the affection of the female, who dances around the man waving her scarf in the air. In the end, the woman finally succumbs to the man and they dance together as spectators clap along to the music. If you head to a discoteca you’ll likely find that the most popular dances aren’t Bolivian at all. Inspired by their Latin American neighbors, Bolivians love cumbias, salsas and sambas—just to name a few. Sign up for dance lessons in the major cities if you want to keep up. Updated: Jul 15, 2009.
Cinema
The evolution of Bolivia’s film industry is virtually inseparable from this country’s political history. Indeed, shortly after the turn of the century, when the moving picture camera arrived, this Andean nation’s first
films, directed by a Luís G. Castillo, consisted mostly of mini-documentaries about political leaders and Bolivia’s congress, along with recordings of daily life in La Paz. Castillo is not only considered Bolivia’s first filmmaker, but is credited with starting this country’s first film production company. The first official full-length feature film was made in 1925, a melodrama named Corazon Aymara (Aymara Heart), in reference to its all-indigenous characters. The tragic narrative concerns a young Aymara who is sexually harassed by her father-in-law and vilified by her mother-in-law. She is eventually executed on suspicion of adultery. Shortly thereafter, a scandal ensued with the release of Bolivia’s second feature, The Prophecy of the Lake, because its subject matter involved an affair between a poor Aymara and the Caucasian wife of a ranch owner—too volatile a theme for the white ruling class. The film was immediately banned and all copies ordered destroyed. Castillo directed another film that focused on interracial relationships, only this time between a Spanish knight and an Aymara princess. A sexist and racist double standard regarding gender in a mixed race love story precluded any controversy this time around. These films; however, being silent, could not compete with the new “talkie” films being produced abroad; a flood of Hollywood, European, Argentine, and Mexican films stalled the nascent Bolivian film industry. Feature film production came to a virtual halt for the next 20 years, with the exception of a 1938 production about Bolivia’s Chaco War. However, the government continued to sponsor the production of educational documentaries, which introduced a major new talent in Bolivian film: Jorge Ruiz, who would eventually be regarded as the “father of indigenous Andean cinema” and deemed one of the six most important documentary filmmakers in the world. Along with fellow cineaste Agosto Roca, and with backing from an American, Kenneth Wasson, Ruiz formed Bolivia Films, and made the first sound and color Bolivian films. Thematically, their work, both documentary and narrative, focused on the culture, struggles and hardships of Bolivia’s indigenous. Later in his life, the American Smithsonian Institute awarded Ruiz the James Smithson
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Literature
In 1952, when the leftist Nationalist Revolutionary Movement (MNR) assumed power, the Bolivian Film Institute was established both to promote a national cinema and to propagandize the ideology of the new political leaders. A major filmmaker to emerge under these auspices was Jorge Sanjines, who, like Ruiz, brought a focus to the problems of poverty and racism in Bolivia. His 1966 feature, Ukamau, filmed at Lake Titicaca, won the Young Director and Critics Awards at the 1967 Cannes Film Festival. A subsequent film, Blood of the Condor, resulted in the expulsion of the Peace Corps from Bolivia over its depiction of Corps volunteers performing sterilizations on indigenous women. However, Sanjines’ subsequent film, The Courage of the Pueblo; based on a military massacre of a union-affiliated mining community in 1967, with survivors recreating their trauma, was banned by the government (though the film was clandestinely shown) and Sanjines was sent into exile for several years. Nonetheless, the late-1960s and early1970s is considered a high water mark in Bolivian cinema, with such output as Ruiz’ Mina Alaska and Volver, among other films. Shortly thereafter, though, the political and economic climate became violent and unstable, and few films were made. Jose Sanjines returned to Bolivia at the end of the decade, and filmmaking continued apace, if sporadically, throughout the 1980s. New filmmakers, such as Juan Miranda and the Italian-born Paolo Agazzi, emerged. In 1991, Bolivia instituted a new film law subsidizing local filmmaking, and in 1995, A Question of Faith, a comedy by Marcos Loayza, with spiritual and social overtones, proved to be a success with audiences and in international film festivals. In his 70s, Sanjines is still active, while Ruiz continued working as a cinematographer until 1998. In the last decade, a new generation of writer-directors, such as Juan Carlos Valdivia, with his dark comedy, American Visa, have continued to garner respect and admiration for Bolivian filmmakers creating worthy films in the face of tumultuous challenges. Updated: Nov 18, 2008.
Literature
Bolivia has traditionally been impoverished, and its inhabitants are often illiterate or do not speak Spanish as a first language. It is not surprising, then, that it does not have the rich literary tradition of many of its neighbors, such as Peru or Argentina. That’s not to say there’s nothing there at all. There have been several Bolivian writers whose work is worth checking out. Alcides Arguedas (1879-1946) was one of the founders of the indigenist movement, which sought to portray native peoples in a positive light for the first time and to denounce the poor treatment they were receiving at the hand of rich white creoles. His novel Men of Bronze is a well-known literary work. Victor Montoya (1958-) is a survivor of the Banzer dictatorship. As an intellectual and writer, he was jailed and tortured like many South Americans of his generation. His novels and stories often tell interesting tales from the dictatorship era. Gaston Suárez (1929-1984) was one of Bolivia’s more literary writers and a minor figure in the Latin American “boom” of the 1950s to 1970s. He is best known for his novel Mallko, which uses the story of an anthropomorphic condor to describe Andean life. Poet Javier del Granado (1913-1996) was loved by his countrymen in a way that few contemporary poets are. His epic poems made him a Bolivian icon, and three days of mourning were delcared when he passed away. Updated: Apr 29, 2009.
Holidays and Festivals
The most unique regional festival in Bolivia is almost certainly the Chiquitos Music Festival, which takes place in April or May, every two years, and reflects the region’s Jesuit history. The Jesuits used music as an important element of their evangelization of the natives, and during a recent renovation of their mission churches, a treasure trove of music composed and performed by Jesuits and natives during the colonial era was discovered. Now, every year, classical musicians from around the world travel to these missions to play this music and that of their home countries. Another important holiday is Inti Raymi, held annually in June in many parts of
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Bicentennial Medal for his contributions to film, an honor shared by only three other recipients: Robert Redford, Stephen Spielberg and George Lucas.
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Holidays and Festivals
Bolivia. Inti Raymi is a holiday that has lasted since Inca times, and celebrates the sun. It is usually celebrated with traditional dances and parades to honor the sun. For centuries, celebrating Inti Raymi was forbidden by the Catholic Church: the last official Inti Raymi was performed in 1535. About 50 years ago, however, native Andeans began celebrating it again, relying (ironically) on Spanish chronicles and religious treatises from the colonial period to recreate the festivities. Fiesta de la Virgen de Candelaria, held on February 2 all over South America, is primarily celebrated in Bolivia in Copacabana, on Lake Titicaca. For a week, this laid-back town is host to parades, celebrations and music. People even drive in from all over the country, believing that if the Virgin of Copacabana blesses their car, it’ll be safe from thieves and accidents. There are usually more tourists than facilities; be sure to make reservations if you intend to go.
La Diablada, or “The Dance of the Devils,” is a big deal in Bolivia. It is an annual parade of sorts in Oruro. It is a fascinating cultural mish-mash of Andean and Spanish religious customs, with a bit of conquest history thrown in for good measure. It lasts several days at Carnaval time (at the same time as Brazil’s famous Carnaval) and attracts performers and visitors from around the world. By the time it is through, a typical Diablada will have featured 28,000 dancers and 10,000 musicians, in a series of processions over the course of 20 hours. The dancers wear a variety of costumes, including devils, demons, Incas and Spaniards. The festival ends with two plays: one is about the Spanish conquest, and the other is about Archangel Michael and the forces of good triumphing over the Devil and the forces of evil. The festival has ended with the same two plays for decades. Oruro is not a very big city, and rooms are limited, so visitors will want to make their reservations far in advance or bring a tent.
Holiday and Festivals January 1—New Year’s Day. Just like everywhere else–lots of booze and music. January 6—Reyes Magos. The Feast of the Epiphany, the celebration of the arrival of the three kings. January 24—Alasitas (La Paz). The sixday Festival of Abundance, dedicated to Ekeko, the god of plenty. This holiday dates back to the Inca era. February 2—Fiesta de la Virgen de la Candelaria. This Catholic holiday celebrates the Virgin Mary. February/March—Carnaval. A series of celebrations and revelries in the week before Lent. March 12—Pujjlay. Tarabuco, near Sucre, hosts thousands of indigenous Bolivians celebrating a local victory over the Spanish in the Independence War. March/April—Semana Santa (Easter) Holy Week is celebrated nationwide at the end of March or the beginning of April. May 1—Labor Day (public holiday). Government offices and most businesses are closed. May 3—Fiesta de la Cruz, celebrated throughout Bolivia. This holiday honors Christ’s cross. May 27—Día de Madre (Mother’s Day). Apparently, Bolivians are not immune to guilt trips.
May/June—La Fiesta del Gran Poder (La Paz). An upbeat festival dedicated to the power of Christ. June 24—San Juan Bautista, The Feast of St. John the Baptist. July 16—Virgen del Carmen. This holiday is celebrated in La Paz, Oruro, Cochabamba and Sucre. July 31—Fiesta del Santo Patrono de Moxos. This local festival is celebrated in the indigenous community of San Ignacio de Moxos. August 6—Independence Day. Bolivians celebrate their independence with parties and parades. August 15—Virgen de Urkupina. In Quillacollo, the ascension of the Virgin Mary into heaven is celebrated with parades, dances and parties. September 14—Lord of the Exhaltation. This holiday is celebrated in Cochabamba, Potosí and Oruro. October 1-7—Virgen del Rosario and Virgen de La Merced. November 1-2—Día de los Muertos (Dayof the Dead) and Día de todos los Santos (All Saints Day). These two legendary holidays are celebrated throughout Bolivia. December 24-25—Navidad (Christmas). Celebrated nationwide. Updated: Jan 13, 2010.
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Social and Environmental Issues
Social and Environmental Issues Indigenous Rights On December 18, 2005, Juan Evo Morales Ayma, better known as Evo Morales, was elected president with 53.7 percent of the popular vote. This election represented a dramatic shift in the politics of Bolivia. Not only was Morales one of the few presidents to be elected with an outright majority, he is also the first fully indigenous head of state in Bolivia’s nearly 500-year history. And his presidency has been a controversial one. The tone was struck when, before his official inauguration, he participated in an indigenous Aymara inauguration ceremony. While the historical veracity of this ceremony may be debatable, there can be little doubt that it was an important nod to the indigenous community of Bolivia, and represented an important shift in the politics of the nation. In January of 2009, a new constitution was passed that improved the rights afforded to the indigenous people of Bolivia. Some of these improvements include the right of native peoples to use their traditional systems of justice, a broader definition of property to include collective ownership, and greater local control of natural resources. To be certain, the new constitution, with its 411 articles, did not enjoy unanimous support. In particular, it faced serious opposition from the mostly European, eastern lowlands of the nation. This area, which has abundant oil and gas deposits, has developed a serious secessionist movement. Morales’ shifting of support to the indigenous community has also faced serious opposition from abroad, including such organizations as the WTO and the World Bank. Deforestation Although an economically poor country, Bolivia is incredibly rich in natural resources. Over half the country is covered with tropical
forest, and forests are essential components of the Altiplano and Chaco Grande. To a large extent, Bolivia has been better about protecting its forests than some of its neighbors. Between 1986 and 1990, only about 0.2 percent of the country’s forests were lost each year. Much of this was due to the relative inaccessibility of the forests and the fact that most of the population was based in the less-forested Andean regions. The government focused its efforts on developing those areas, without looking at the economic possibilities of the rainforest. In in the 1990s, the rate of deforestation more than doubled. Roughly 20 million hectares (over 49 million acres) were granted to timber companies, while as much as 80 percent of the nation’s timber harvest is taken illegally. Aside from the high-profile damage that this does to the eastern tropical forests, this has allowed erosion and other forms of harm to take hold in other parts of the country. Of special importance is the damage done to the Altiplano, which, aside from being a delicate eco-system, is also an important agricultural center. Between 1990 and 2005, Bolivia lost roughly 6.5 percent of its total forest cover. While environmental protections were put in place, there were abundant loopholes that let the timber companies avoid these restrictions. Fortunately, the government of Bolivia reacted quickly to this problem. Today, over two million hectares (nearly five million acres) of tropical forest are certified, making Bolivia the world’s leader in forestry certification. This program has been good for the country, bringing in revenue in a sustainable way. Indeed, today, the biggest threats to Bolivia’s forests come not from the timber industry, but from other sources. Oil and gas development, commercial and subsistence agriculture, and urbanization all pose threats to Bolivia’s forests. In 2005, fires burned for the purposes of clearing land, burned out of control, destroying 500,000 hectares (1.2 million acres) of pristine forest. Climate Change The 2008 James Bond film, A Quantum of Solace, features a plot in which the secret agent foils a plot to gain control of Bolivia’s water supply. In real life, Bolivia’s water supply is threatened by a much more ominous force–climate change.
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El Gran Poder, a festival honoring Jesus Christ, takes place every year in late May or early June in La Paz. The festival has its roots in a painting of the holy trinity that is allegedly responsible for several miracles, but the celebration has grown into a large street party, with dancing, processions, drinking and more. Updated: Mar 22, 2007.
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Before You Go
Much of Bolivia’s water supply comes from alpine glaciers that tower above the Altiplano. As global temperature have increased more rapidly than experts have predicted, Bolivia’s glaciers have retreated more rapidly than experts have predicted. For example, the glacier Chacaltaya was supposed to have been melted by the year 2020. It was gone by 2009. The human cost of climate change has started to affect the day-to-day lives of Bolivians. In 2009, the water supply of the city of El Alto was outstripped by demand. As a result, between September and November, there was usually no more than eight hours of water a day—often with little pressure. While El Alto has been one of the hardest hit places, other areas are starting to be affected. Agriculture is also threatened by climate change. This past year, drought killed 7,000 farm animals and sickened nearly 100,000. In other places, increased glacial runoff has loaded the water with sedimentation, making it useless for agricultural purposes. While engineering projects might help with these problems, they can take years to build and are very costly. Warmer temperatures have also exposed Bolivia’s crops to pests, such as locusts and worms, as well a human illness, such
as malaria and dengue fever. Furthermore, intense storms, normally associated with El Niño, now occur on an almost annual basis, causing considerable damage to the nation’s infrastructure. In response, Bolivia has become a vocal advocate of ensuring that the third world does not carry a disproportionate amount of the burden of carbon dioxide reduction. Bolivia has recently demanded that wealthier first world nations provide economic support for third world nations attempting to reduce emissions. Updated: Jan 13, 2010.
Before You Go
There’s always a lot to consider as you prepare for your trip, but the best advice is to make your packing list and check it twice! This goes for anything you might need to bring (i.e. medicines, first aid, specialized camera batteries, homestay gifts, etc.) and any way you need to prepare (i.e. vaccinations, visa requirements, currency exchange, etc.). You will want to make sure all valuables are signed up under your insurance plan and all medications are properly labeled. If you may use your credit or ATM cards while in Bolivia, let the bank know. Be aware that Bolivia is less developed than most South American countries, and certain towns are unlikely to provide the western goods and amenities you are used to. Other tips: Make sure to bring emergency contact information, photocopies of your passport and
Bolivia Facts ► Official Name: The Republic of Bolivia ► Capital: Sucre (official), La Paz (administrative) ► People: Quechua (30%), mestizo— mixed white and Amerindian ancestry (30%), Aymara (25%), white (15%) ► Religion: Roman Catholic (95%), Protestant (Evangelical Methodist) (5%) ► Population: 9,775,246 (estimated as of July, 2009) ► Language: Three official languages in order of use: Spanish, Quechua and Aymara. ► Government: Bolivia is a republic led by President Evo Morales and Vice President Álvaro García Linera (since 2006). ► Economic Facts: As of 2009, the unemployment rate is estimated at 8.5%, while its external debt is estimated at $4.6 billion (about 44% of its annual
GDP). An estimated 60% of the population lives below the domestic poverty line, as of 2006. ► Agriculture: soybeans, coffee, coca, cotton, corn, sugarcane, rice, potatoes, timber ► Main exports: soybeans, natural gas, zinc, gold, wood, tin ► Main Industries: mining, smelting, petroleum, food and beverages, tobacco, handicrafts, clothing ► Provinces: Bolivia is divided into nine departments: Chuquisaca, Cochabamba, Beni, La Paz, Oruro, Pando, Potosí, Santa Cruz, Tarija. ► Time: GMT minus 4 ► Electricity: 110/220 Volts AC in La Paz; 220V AC in the rest of the country. ► Plugs: most houses have two-pin sockets for both electrical currents. Updated: Feb 11, 2010.
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Embassies and Consulates
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Foreign Embassies and Consulates Below is a list of foreign embassies and consulates in Bolivia. Aspiazu, 497, esq. Sanchez, Casilla 64, La Paz Tel: 591-2-241-7737 Fax: 591-2-242-2727 E-mail:ebol@mrecic.gov.ar / embarbol@adslmail.entelnet.bo
Belgium Ca. 9, 6, Achumani, La Paz Tel: 591-2-277-1430 Fax: 591-2-279-1219 E-mail: LaPaz@diplobel.org / lapaz@diplobel.fed.be URL: www.diplomatie.be/lapazes
Brazil Av. Arce, S/N esq. Rosendo Gutierrez, Edificio Multicentro-Mezanino, Caixa Postal 429, La Paz Tel: 591-2-216-6400 / 244-0202 Fax: 591-2-244-0043, E-mail: brasil@ brasil.org.bo / consular@brasil.org.bo URL: www.brasil.org.bo
Canada Ca. Victor Sanjinez, 2678, Edificio Barcelona 2nd Floor, Plaza EspaĂąa, La Paz P.O. Box 10345 Tel: 591-2-241-5141 Fax: 591-2-241-4453 E-mail: lapaz@international.gc.ca
China Ca. 1, 8352, Los Pinos, Calacoto, La Paz P.O. Box 10005 Tel: 591-2-279-3851 Fax: 592-2-279-7121 E-mail: emb-china@kolla.net
Colombia
Tel: 591-2-272-1157 Fax: 591-2-72 -3419 E-mail: embacubabol@acelerate.com / consulbol@kolla.net URL: embacu.cubaminrex.cu/bolivia
Denmark Av. Arce, 2799, esq. Cordero, Edificio Fortaleza, 9th floor, La Paz P.O. Box 9860 Tel: 591-2-243-2070 Fax: 591-2-243-3150 E-mail: lpbamb@um.dk URL: www.amblapaz.um.dk
Ecuador Ca. 10, 8054, Calacoto, Casilla de Correo, 406, La Paz Tel: 591-2-278-4422 Fax: 591-2-277-1043 Email: mecuabol@entelnet.bol / eecuabolivia@mmrree.gov.ec
France Av. Hernando Siles, 5390, esq. Ca. 8, Casilla 717–Obrajes, La Paz Tel: 591-2-214-9900 Fax: 591-2-214-9901 E-mail: information@ambafrance-bo.org URL: www.ambafrance-bo.org/
Germany Av. Arce, 2395, La Paz Tel: 591-2-244-0066 Fax: 591-2-244-1441 E-mail: info@embajada-alemana-bolivia.org URL: www.embajada-alemana-bolivia.org
Greenland
Ca. 9, 7835, Calacoto, La Paz Tel: 591-2-279-0386 Fax: 591-2-279-6011 E-mail: elapaz@minrelext.gov.co / emcol@acelerate.com
Av. Arce, 2799, esq. Cordero, Edificio Fortaleza, 9th floor, La Paz Tel: 591-2-243-2070 Fax: 591-2-243-3150 E-mail: lpbamb@um.dk URL: www.amblapaz.um.dk
Costa Rica
Italy
Ca. 18, Calacoto esq. Av. Montenegro, 1196 Edificio Lopez Leyton, 1st floor, La Paz Tel: 591-2-215-3615 / 211-6145 Fax: 591-2-215-3616 E-mail: embcrbo@entelnet.bo
Av. 6 de Agosto, 2575, La Paz Tel: 591-2-243-4929 Fax: 591-2-243-4975 E-mail: ambitlap@ceibo.entelnet.bo URL: www.ambital.org.bo
Cuba
Japan
Ca. Gobles, 6246, between Ca. 11 and 12, Bajo Irpavi, Zona Sur, La Paz
Ca. Rosendo Gutierrez, 497, esq. Sanchez Lima, La Paz
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Argentina
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Insurance
P.O. Box 2725 Tel: 591-2-241-9110 Fax: 591-2-241-1919 E-mail: jpncons@acelerate.com URL: www.bo.emb-japan.go.jp/jp/index.htm
Mexico
Spain Av. 6 de Agosto, 2827, La Paz Tel: 591-2-243-3518 / 0118 / 1203 Fax: 591-2-211-3267 E-mail: embespbo@correo.mae.es / embespa@ceibo.entelnet.bo
Av. Sanchez Bustamante, 509, Calacoto, South Zone, La Paz Tel: 591-2-277-1824 Fax: 591-2-277-1855 E-mail: embamex@acelerate.com URL: www.sre.gob.mx/bolivia
Switzerland
Netherlands
Calacoto, Ca. 12, 7978, La Paz Tel: 591-2-279-7307 Fax: 591-2-279-7303 E-mail: taiwan@acelerate.com
Av. 6 de Agosto, 2455, Edificio Hilda, 7th floor, La Paz Tel: 591-2-244-4040 Fax: 591-2-244-3804 E-mail: lap@minbuza.nl. URL: www.mfa.nl/lap-es
Panama Ca. 10, 7853, Calacoto, Casilla 678, La Paz Tel: 591-278-7334 Fax: 591-2-279-7290 E-mail: empanbol@ceibo.entelnet.bo
Paraguay Pedro Salazar, 351, Edificio Illimani II, mezzanine, office 101, La Paz Tel: 591-2-243-3176 Fax: 591-2-243-2201 E-mail: embapar@acelerate.com URL: usuarios.lycos.es/embaparbolivia
Poland Ca. Potosi, 1321, La Paz Tel: 591-2-233-8932 / 8678 Fax: 591-2-215-4749 URL:www.learn4good.com/travel/ poland_embassies.htm
Russia Calacoto, Av. Arequipa, 8129, La Paz Tel: 591-2-786-419 / 792-108 / 790-136 Fax: 591-2-786-531
visa, all flight and other transportation information, and traveler’s checks or sufficient cash. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Insurance
Taking out a travel insurance policy is an essential precaution for all tourists who plan on traveling to Bolivia or anywhere outside of their own country. As there are a great deal of different insurers offering a wide variety
Ca. 13, esq. Av. 14 de Septiembre, Obrajes, La Paz Tel: 591-4-448-6868 Fax: 591-4-448-6868 E-mail:cochabamba@honorarvertretung.ch
Taiwan
United Kingdom Av. Arce, 2732, Casilla, La Paz P.O. Box 694 Tel: 591-2-243-3424 Fax: 591-2-243-1073 E-mail: ppa@megalink.com URL: www.britishembassy.gov.uk/bolivia
United States Av. Arce, 2780, Casilla 425, La Paz Tel: 591-2-216-8000 Fax: 591-2-216-8111 E-mail: consularlapaz@state.com URL: bolivia.usembassy.gov
Uruguay Ca. 21, 8350, Calacoto (San Miguel), Edificio Monroy Velez, 7th floor, La Paz Tel: 591-2-279-1482 / 279-1465 Fax: 591-2-212-9413 E-mail: urulivia@mail.megalink.com
Venezuela Edificio Illimani, Av. Arce, Esq. Campos, 2678, 4th and 5th floor, La Paz Tel: 591-2-432-023 Fax: 591-2-432-348 Updated: Jul 10, 2009.
of products, it is worth spending some time to research the policy that is most suitable for your trip. Before you do this, check to see if you already have coverage, as some credit and bank cards provide basic travel insurance. Medical The most important part of any travel insurance policy is the medical provision. The costs of medical treatment for serious injuries can
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Getting To and Away
Before you leave, make sure that the policy you chose covers all the activities that you intend on doing, or think that you might try; activities such as climbing, mountain biking and even trekking may be considered adventurous activities and thus not covered under a basic policy. Lost or Stolen Items Although medical coverage is extremely important, most travel insurance claims relate to lost or stolen items. If you intend on taking expensive belongings, such as cameras, laptops or iPods to Bolivia, there is a chance that they could be stolen or damaged. Purchase a policy that offers an appropriate level of protection to cover all the items you intend to take on your trip, or consider leaving any extremely expensive items at home. If you are robbed while in Bolivia, report the incident to the police within 24 hours. Make sure to obtain a copy of the report, as your insurance company may demand this (along with the item’s receipt) when you make your claim.
Getting To and Away
Travelers have a number of options for getting to Bolivia. There are flights to Bolivia from the United States and Bolivia’s neighbors, Brazil, Paraguay, Argentina, Chile and Peru. The airports in La Paz and Santa Cruz handle all regularly-scheduled international arrivals and departures. Buses to Bolivia depart from all of its neighboring countries, and long-distance buses link La Paz with international capitals like Buenos Aires, Santiago and Lima. Boat transport in Bolivia is difficult, as it is a land-locked country, but there are boats that cross river borders with Brazil and Peru in the Amazon basin, as well as boats that travel from the Peruvian shore of Lake Titicaca to the Bolivian side. U.S. citizens need a tourist visa in order to enter Bolivia, which can be applied for at the border or in advance at a Bolivian embassy. It costs $135 and is valid for 30 days with multiple entries allowed, but can be extended to up to 90 days. The money must be in cash and in U.S. dollars. Among other documents, a yellow card indicating the reception of the yellow fever vaccine is mandatory. Check the embassy website to confirm the cost and required documents to cut back on hassle at the border. Updated: Dec 07, 2009.
International Flights
Flights to Bolivia are more expensive than they are to many other countries in South America, so a lot of travelers choose to fly into a neighboring country and travel by land to Bolivia. However, if time is short, it is possible to fly directly into one of Bolivia’s airports.
Basic travel insurance policies may not include any provision for the loss or theft of valuables and, in general, the more money you are willing to spend, the greater the level of protection you will have. If you purchase a more comprehensive policy, the deductibles will be smaller, single item limits will be higher, and there may be coverage for stolen cash and the cost of reissuing passports. Check the details very closely to make sure that you are happy with the level of coverage your policy provides.
Although there are some 30-plus airports in the country, almost all flights go to El Alto International Airport in La Paz (airport code: LPB) or Viru Viru International Airport in Santa Cruz (airport code: VVI). Surprisingly, Santa Cruz’s airport is the larger and more modern of the two, and it has more daily flights into and out of the country (though tickets are likely to be a bit more expensive than flights to La Paz). There are numerous domestic flights every day between Santa Cruz and La Paz, and it is only a 50-minute trip.
Note: Be sure to bring your insurer’s 24hour emergency contact number and a copy of your policy number number with you. It is also a good idea to keep your insurance details in an E-mail account so you can access them wherever you are, even if someone steals your bags. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Flights to Bolivia depart frequently from Miami, USA (American Airlines and Aerosur); Madrid, Spain (Aerosur and Air Comet); Panama City, Panama (Copa); Buenos Aires, Argentina (Aerolineas Argentinas and Aerosur); Salta, Argentina (Aerosur); Tucumán, Argentina (Aerosur); Campo Grande, Brazil
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quickly mount. Find out how much your insurance will pay for necessary emergency expenses and if your policy includes helicopter rescue and emergency evacuation, should you need to return home or be flown to the U.S. for serious medical attention. Most policies (and hospitals in Bolivia) will demand that you pay for your medical treatment up front (usually in cash). If you have to pay cash at a hospital, make sure that you get receipts for any medical care you receive, as you will need to provide copies when making your claim.
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International Airports
(Gol); Salvador da Bahia, Brazil (Gol); São Paulo, Brazil (Gol and Aerosur); Cusco, Peru (Aerosur); Lima, Peru (Aerosur, TACA Peru and LAN Peru); Santiago de Chile (LAN and Sky); Arica, Chile (Sky); Iquique, Chile (LAN) and Asunción, Paraguay (Regional Paraguaya, TAM Paraguay and Aerosur). From South America, it is recommended to call or check online 48 hours ahead of time to verify that your flight will be leaving when it is supposed to and that you have a seat on it. Updated: Feb 09, 2010.
International Airports
La Paz’s El Alto Airport and Santa Cruz’s Viru Viru Airport are the take-off and landing points for virtually all of Bolivia’s international flights. La Paz El Alto Airport The La Paz airport is located in the plains of its fast-growing sister city, El Alto. The airport’s altitude has been measured at 4,060 meters (13,325 ft), making it one of the highest in the world. As a result of the logistical problems that this altitude presents, El Alto handles relatively fewer flights than you would expect from the nation’s largest metropolitan region. El Alto Airport has restaurants, stores, WiFi and duty-free shops. There is a currency exchange bureau in the international arrivals hall and there are several ATMs spread around the facility. Minibuses travel the 10 kilometers (6.2 mi) between the airport and central La Paz, but registered airport taxis are a safer option, especially at night. Travelers leaving on international flights must pay a $25 tax before departure. Santa Cruz Viru Viru Airport Viru Viru Airport in Santa Cruz is Bolivia’s largest, most modern airport. Because of its low altitude, it handles more flights than El Alto. The airport is about 15 kilometers (9.3 mi) north of town, and minibuses and taxis take travelers into the city. The international arrivals hall has an ATM and currency-exchange facilities. The airport has a number of restaurants, including Subway, and shops. There is WiFi available throughout the terminal. Updated: Feb 10,2010
International Buses
Traveling to and from Bolivia by land is the most popular choice for independent travelers, as its many border crossings are easy to
access. What’s more, taking the bus into Bolivia is far cheaper than flying, and travelers who commute over land will not have to pay Bolivia’s $25 airport departure tax. Many travelers take local buses to the border, cross on foot, and then pick up another bus on the other side of the border. International buses are a more convenient option for travelers who are just looking to get from one major city to another without stopping. From Peru, Grupo Ormeño runs buses between Lima and La Paz, and a number of bus companies ply the road between Puno and Copacabana. Pullman Cuevas has daily buses between La Paz and Arica, where you can connect to other cities in Chile. Puma Bus and Ormeño operate buses between Buenos Aires and La Paz. There are daily departures on the long, dusty route between Asunción, Paraguay and Santa Cruz. Updated: Feb 09, 2010.
Border Crossings Bolivia-argentina border Travelers coming from Argentina will most likely take a bus to the Argentine border town of La Quiaca and cross into the Bolivian border town of Villazón by foot. The two immigration offices are only a few meters apart from one another, and crossing is usually a hassle-free endeavor, especially if necessary visas have already been obtained. From Villazón, there are many buses and a train to other destinations in Bolivia, such as Tupiza, Oruro and La Paz. Another major crossing between Argentina and Bolivia is at Pocitos/Yacuiba. Bolivia-Peru Border Many international buses run between Bolivia and Peru. Probably the most popular route is from Copacabana to Puno, Arequipa or Cusco, Peru via the Desaguadero crossing, or vice versa. Most of these buses stop at the border, allow travelers to collect their exit and entry stamps, and then meet passengers on the other side. The majority of buses make a stop in Puno, where passengers may or may not have to switch buses before continuing onward to their final destination. It is best to confirm these details when booking your international bus ticket. Additionally, another less popular and more time-consuming overland crossing exists at Yunguyo/Kasani.
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International Boat Travel
Bolivia-Chile Border Those looking to cross the border into Chile will most likely go from La Paz to Arica, Chile through the Chungara-Tambo Quemado mountain pass. Another option is to book an extended tour of the Salar de Uyuni that includes a stop in San Pedro de Atacama, Chile. In this scenario, the tour company should assist in the border crossing process, making it an easy way to get to Chile from Bolivia. Alternatively, if your tour ends in Uyuni, you can independently cross into San Pedro by way of Hito Cajón or take a train to Calama, Chile with a stop at the Avaroa/Ollagüe crossing. Less popular, but still viable, is taking a bus from Oruru to Iquique, Chile via the Pisiga/Colchane crossing. Bolivia and Paraguay border There are several bus companies that run daily routes from Santa Cruz or Villamontes, Bolivia to Asunción, Paraguay along the Trans-Chaco Highway. Another option is to go through Brazil, either by river or land via Corumbá, both of which require multiple stops along the way. Updated: Feb 17, 2010.
International Boat Travel Bolivia and Peru Boat Crossings For adventurous and well-heeled travelers, it is possible to enter and exit Bolivia by boat. The most popular route is between the Lake Titicaca shore towns of Puno, in Peru, and Copacabana. Tour agencies in both towns can book boat trips between the two towns, with stops at some of the Lake Titicaca islands. You should ask about border-crossing procedures when you book your tour. There are also several crossings in the Amazon Basin. It is technically possible to travel by river between Riberalta and Puerto Maldonado, in Peru. The border formalities can be handled at Puerto Heath, but it can take
a long time to find boats that will take you the whole way. Bolivia and Brazil Boat Crossings There are two crossings between Brazil and Bolivia, as well: from Guajara-Mirim, Brazil to Guayaramerín, Bolivia and from Brasileia, Brazil to Cobija, Bolivia. In both cases, you will have to get an exit stamp from immigration before boarding the boat and will then have to go to the immigration office at your destination for the entry stamp once you’ve arrived. Updated: Feb 10, 2010.
Visa Regulations Tourist visa Citizens of the United States are now required to purchase a tourist visa to enter Bolivia. South African citizens also need a visa, which must be purchased at a Bolivian consulate in South Africa. Citizens of most European Union countries, Australia, Canada and New Zealand don’t need a tourist visa and are permitted to stay for either 30 or 90 days depending on the country. Tourist visas for U.S. citizens can be purchased from any Bolivian consulate (by mail or in person) or on arrival at the airport or border in Bolivia. There are also companies that will do your application online for a hefty fee. You can download the sworn statement for the visa application from a link on the website of the Bolivian Embassy in the United States (http://www.bolivia-usa.org). Detailed instructions of the process are also found there, as can assistance in finding a hotel where you can make a reservation. You can also pick up a form at any Bolivian consulate in the U.S., or elsewhere. To submit your application, you need to complete the sworn statement and include the following: a passport photo (you are not allowed to wear glasses in the photo), a copy of a hotel reservation or an invitation letter from a Bolivian friend or relative, which indicates their address; a return ticket or a copy of your travel itinerary; a copy of a bank statement or other document that proves ‘economic solvency (this can be a copy of the front of your credit card); a yellow fever vaccination certificate (in theory, you also need a copy which has been translated into Spanish); and finally, the fee of $135 in cash, by money order or bank deposit (obviously bring cash if you’re purchasing your visa in Bolivia). The visa lasts for five years and you are allowed to be in Bolivia for
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intro & info
Bolivia-Brazil Border The most popular land crossing to get to and from Brazil is between Quijarro, Bolivia and Corumbá, Brazil. Most travelers will take a train to Quijarro, and then either walk or take a taxi to the immigration offices at the border, which are a little over a mile away from the station and separated by a bridge. After receiving an entry stamp on the Brazilian side, you will find many city buses waiting to bring you to Corumbá. A yellow fever vaccine is necessary in order to enter Brazil from Bolivia.
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Getting Around
a total of 90 days in any one year. This can either be three 30 day visits, or one stay of 90 days (you will have to go to immigration in Bolivia to get your initial 30 days extended). Updated: Dec 18, 2009. Work and Volunteer Visa If you are intending to work or volunteer in Bolivia for any extended period of time, then you will need to get a visa. If the company that you are working or volunteering for is foreign, then it’s best to do this before you enter the county. You will need to go to your local Bolivian consulate and apply for a Visa de Objectivo Determinado, or specific purpose visa. Applications can also normally be sent by mail. For your application, you need to submit a completed application form, a passport photo, a letter of introduction, a fee of $85, a copy of your itinerary or ticket, and your passport (needs to be valid for one year). The visa lasts for 30 days but can be extended at immigration in Bolivia for a fee. If you come to Bolivia and decide to stay, then you can apply for your specific purpose visa in country. Be warned though, this process is very expensive and is only really worth it if you plan to stay for a while and apply for temporary residency. If you are coming to volunteer for a few months, and are from a country that doesn’t require a tourist visa, then the best option is probably to come in as a tourist, although this is not the official way of doing things. For your application you need your passport, photocopies of your entry stamp and document page, a document verifying your purpose for staying the country (such as a work or volunteer contract) or a notarized letter stating what you’ll be doing and declaring that you are economically solvent. The cost of this 30-day visa is $360. After that, you can then apply for your temporary residency of one year, although it is strongly advised to start getting your documentation together for your temporary visa before you submit your specific purpose visa application. The process is long and full of bureaucracy, and is very likely to take more than 30 days. You will need: a certificate registering your address (issued by the Policía Técnica Judicial or PTJ), background check certificates
from PTJ and Interpol, a medical certificate, photocopies of your entry stamp, the visa de objetctivo determinado from your passport, a work contract verified by the Ministerio de Trabajo (or a notarized letter stating what you intended to do in the country and that you are economically solvent), your passport and a memorial de solictud (notarized introductory letter). If you’re applying in La Paz, it is quite likely that Interpol will have your application for at least three weeks, so be prepared to be patient. Once you have all your documentation, you will need to take your application to immigration and pay an additional $200 for your temporary resident visa. Then you will have to pay $50 for your carnet (ID card). With the costs of all the documentation you need, the total cost of the process will run near $800. From start to finish, the process can easily take six months or more, although you could be lucky and get it finished quicker. It might be worth hiring a tramitador (a legal representative to assist in your application) to help you with the process—you will still have to queueupatimmigration,butyoumightonlyhave to go in every other day, rather than every day! Updated: Dec 18, 2009.
Getting Around
Admittedly, getting around Bolivia is tough. The Amazon Basin is expansive, schedules aren’t always obeyed and roads are rough. With a little patience and a couple key vocab words, however, you’ll be able to manage. From La Paz you can get anywhere, as all modes of transportation (aside from boats) leave from here. Large, tourist cities like Copacabana, Uyuni, Cochabamba, Sucre and Santa Cruz have fairly reliable transportation as well; it’s the small towns and jungle villages that take a bit more planning and luck to reach. Try to stay organized and informed, figure out arrival and departure hours ahead of time, and just remember to be flexible. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. By Bike Bolivia’s dramatic scenery makes the country inviting for distance biking, though its weather conditions, varying altitudes and worn, poorly-designed roads may give some cyclists pause. If you choose to brave the roads, take comfort in the fact that over the last decade major sections of the road system have been improved significantly. Routes down to the
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Getting Around
Using Your Own Bike If you intend on bringing your own bike to Bolivia, it is sensible to have proof of ownership with you to ease the customs process. This can be complex, depending on the officer; if you are charged, ask to speak to a superior and find out exactly what you are paying for. You should also bring all spares for any repairs that you may have to do, as imported parts are extremely hard to find. Most major cities will have a bike shop where basic repairs can be made; however, your safest bet is to do everything you can yourself. The best way to secure your bike at night is to take it into your hotel room with you, something that many places will let you do. Renting Renting a bike can be a great, cheap way to explore Bolivia’s Altiplano. They are widely available for rental in all tourist hotspots; try sport equipment rental shops and even some hotels and hostels. As with all rented bikes however, the equipment may be old and not in the best condition; check your bike thoroughly, and if you are not satisfied, find another. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. By Plane Domestic flights are widely available, but getting around by plane is fairly expensive. There are major airports in Bolivia, Sucre, Santa Cruz and Cochabamba, and it is likely you will be flying into or out of one of these destinations. One of the flights commonly used by tourists is the La Paz to Rurrenabaque route, as the alternative is a bumpy, unreliable 18hour bus trip. Local airlines include: Aerosur (www.aerosur.com), Amaszonas (www. amaszonas.com), Aercon (www.aerocon.bo), TAM (the military airline, serves many cities around the country), Aerolineas Suramericanas and the new government airline BOA (www.boa.bo). These airlines have offices in most of the major cities, and flights can also be purchased through various tour agencies. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. By Bus Bus is by far the most common mode of transportation in Bolivia. Expect a bumpy ride, though the drivers and other passengers are always friendly and helpful to travelers. From La Paz you will be able to bus anywhere
in the country, leaving from the terminal, the cemetery district or Villa Fatima. From other cities you might need to backtrack back to La Paz, though Uyuni, Sucre or Cocabamba. Santa Cruz offers thorough services too. Overnight buses are common, as it often takes a long while to travel even a short distance. Bus companies offer a number of options, including cama and semi-cama, though this just refers to how far back your chair reclines. International buses run from La Paz and the border towns, and they are often higher quality than local buses and worth the extra few bolivianos for their convenience and amenities. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. By Train Surprisingly, given the general state of its infrastructure, the Bolivian train system is quite a treat. A fast and efficient service worth taking advantage of, it provides a clean and smooth shot down western Bolivia. The route runs from Oruro in the north to Villazón, on the Argentine border, in the south, with stops along the way in Uyuni, Atocha and Tupiza. There are two trains that run the tracks, Expreso del Sur and Wara Wara del Sur. The latter is a backpacker favorite, as it’s a bit cheaper (although a bit slower). Expreso del Sur runs south on Tuesdays and Fridays, and north on Wednesdays and Saturdays. Wara Wara heads south on Sundays and Wednesdays, and does the reverse Mondays and Thursdays. Prices range from $4.50-34, depending on class and distance. See the full schedule for exact times and prices. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. By Taxi Taking a taxi is the best bet for a traveler getting around a bigger Bolivian city (La Paz, Sucre, etc.), as cabs are inexpensive and ample. They cut out the guesswork that buses bring and get you to your destination quicker than walking. There are also taxis available to take you from town to town. This option is more expensive than the vagonettas or vans offered, but it allows you to leave whenever you want, rather than waiting for the one-a-day bus. A minimum taxi charge for short trips will be between $0.50-1, though in La Paz, $1.50 is a more common fee. Don’t expect many of the cabs to have taxi meters, so remember to negotiate a price before you take off. To be safe, call for a radio taxi,
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intro & info
Yungas, especially the alternative to the “World’s Most Dangerous Road” (also known as “The Death Road” and “El Camino de la Muerte”), are a fine example of this.
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Tours
intro & info
which are registered vehicles that will get a price from their dispatch office if you ask. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. By Hitchhiking As in all countries, hitchhiking is inherently dangerous in Bolivia. If you plan to thumb your way around, do so at your own risk. While VIVA does not endorse hitchhiking, we recognize that it is often a necessary means of transport, especially on the back roads around the Yungas or Amazon Basin, and common among backpackers. If possible, try and flag down a passing public camioneta. These vans charge according to distance travelled and run frequently. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. By Car For those who wish to brave the bumpy Bolivian roads on their own, cars are available for rent in larger cities. Near (or at) the airport, you can find international agencies such as Avis, Budget, Dollar, Enterprise, Hertz and National Car. There are local companies as well, but it might be best to stick with a foreign chain. If you’re brave enough to try Bolivia’s mountainous roads, you can have far greater indepdence than travelers who depend on public transport. Note that it’s a good idea to apply for an international driver’s license before you leave home, and also make sure that your traveler’s insurance covers costs relating to car rental. If it doesn’t, check to see what the rental company provides. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. By Boat Landlocked Bolivia actually has decent public boat travel, taking advantage of Lake Titicaca and the many rivers in the east. Boats on the lake generally leave from Copacabana, either at 10 a.m. or 1 p.m., and the vast majority head to Isla del Sol. These are slow, though inexpensive, so you may have to plan your day around the departure times. You can rent a private boat for trips to other islands, like Isla de la Luna and the Islas Huyanamarkas, which will cost a good bit more than the public launches but can be shared among travelers and are at your disposal. Long wooden speedboats travel Bolivia’s rivers, and although they are uncomfortable, they provide a wonderfully authentic experience. Try the Guanay-Mapiri trip, which leaves at 7 a.m. (east to west, 9 a.m. west to east), for four hours of scenic river riding, with drop-offs along the way. Public
boats all have set times for departure and arrival (though this is relative...), so if you want to make your own schedule, talk with a boat owner and see what they charge for private rental. Most owners are more than willing to sell their services, $25 for a couple of hours is a reasonable price for you and a day’s salary for them. Remember that you are paying for their driving, boat and gas, so be reasonable when negotiating prices. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Tours
Bolivia’s dramatic scenery and setting make getting out and seeing this country a must. With the vast Salar de Uyuni, breathtaking Lake Titicaca, lush Amazon Rainforest and infamous “World’s Most Dangerous Road,” hitting the highlights means just scratching the surface in Bolivia. Setting up a tour, either ahead of time or as you go, is a good way to see it all, or at least, all that you want to see. This could mean action-packed whitewater rafting or a four-day jeep excursion through the Altiplano, an all-inclusive resort or an indigenous jungle homestay. Either way, with all the types of tours Bolivia has to offer, your travel options are unlimited—even if your time isn’t. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. Lake Titicaca Tours Although you can go via public boat, it is also an option to head to Titicaca on an organized tour. Prices range from very cheap to very, very expensive, depending on the services and amenities you desire. Either way, touring the great lake is a must-see while in Bolivia, and there is no shortage of companies to take you. If you’d like something set up before you get there, check with agencies online or in La Paz. The tour companies, many of which are on Calle Saganarga, will bring you to and from Copacabana, and may include boat rides, guides and accommodations on the islands, depending on the package. For a luxurious, high-end cruise, check out Crillon Tours and their hydrofoil boats. If you’re comfortable arriving without having a tour booked, you will be happy to find that the agencies which line 6 de Agosto in Copacabana offer cheaper and more flexible deals. Tour boats leave from the shore throughout the day, and half- and full-day trips are easy to book on the morning of departure. Arranging a day before can’t hurt. however, as many tours leave around 9 a.m. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
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Tours
If you want to cut costs but still want to go with a tour, you can ask around La Paz or Santa Cruz—since you’ll likely begin your Amazon expedition from one of these two cities—as most of the tour agencies will have last minute or group rates. If you’re traveling solo, or with just a few other people, try and tag along with other travelers, as the larger the group, the more likely you are to receive a discount. Try and stay at a hotel with a tour agency affliation, as they sometimes offer lower rates to patrons. Undoubtedly the best way to save some bucks is to bus rather than fly—this just about halves the cost of the trip, but can double the time. Regardless of your efforts, remember that tours to the Amazon are among the most expensive in the country. Updated: Sep 24, 2009. Salar de Uyuni Tours Salar de Uyuni tours are extremely popular in Bolivia. The most common starting point is Uyuni, and tours normally last for three or four days, either finishing back at Uyuni, or in San Pedro de Atacama in Chile. Sometimes, instead of ending at San Pedro de Atacama, you will be dropped at the border post and make your own way to this Chilean town. Tours also begin in Tupiza, and end back in Tupiza or in Uyuni. Tours are an economical way to enjoy these vast salt plains. The desert landscapes that you will see are unrivalled and, in some cases, appear almost Dali-esque. You’ll see lakes that are green, red and blue; flamingos, geysers, weird and fascinating rock formations, and more. Because these tours are so popular, the prices have been pushed down and are quite
afforable at around $100 for a three-day trip. This includes food, guide, transportation and accommodation. Of course, you get what you pay for, so if you go for a really cheap deal, you may find that corners are cut. On your trip, you’ll usually be with around five other travelers. It gets really cold, so bring warm clothes, but also, don’t forget the sunscreen. Updated: Feb 11, 2010. Jesuit Mission Tours Tours around the beautiful Jesuit Mission Circuit in the Oriente are the most efficient way of visiting the area. A four-day tour will allow you to visit six of the seven main Jesuit settlements, with time to visit all of the Mission churches, museums, some workshops in the villages and attractions in the surrounding countryside. It is possible to do this tour in three days, but you will not have much time in each village. If you want to visit all seven missions, including San José de Chiquitos, you will need at least five days. Tours can easily be arranged in Santa Cruz or Samaipata, and you will also be able to book at tour operators in other parts of the country, including La Paz and Sucre. The price typically includes 4x4 transportation throughout the tour, a guide, accommodation, meals, water and entrance fees. If you haven’t got much time you can also do a one-day tour, which visits San Miguel de Velasco, or a twoday tour, which incorporates San Miguel de Velasco and Concepción. Also, tours of the Jesuit Mission Circuit can be arranged in San Ignacio del Velasco, the largest of the Jesuit Missions. Updated: Dec 18, 2009. Andes Tours Tours throughout the Andes are all too often overlooked for trips that venture deep into the jungle. Bolivia’s rolling foothills and dramatic peaks, however, are some of the most majestic parts of the country. An organized and thorough tour is worth looking into. Depending on your schedule, an Andean tour can be as long or as short as you’d like. Climb through the Cordillera Real and consider summiting Sajama; spend time among the people of the Altiplano, visit local communities, enjoy an indigenous homestay or explore quaint mountain villages. Most of your transportation will be by van or jeep, though you can trek or bike with the right preparation and supplies.
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intro & info
Amazon Tours While it is possible to get into and out of the Amazon on your own, a tour is by far the easiest option. Transportation is sporadic and unreliable, lodging can be hard to find, and in some remote areas finding a Spanish speaker, let alone an English speaker, can be difficult. A tour alleviates these and other worries that can arise, as agencies do all the legwork—look for an agency that includes transportion to and from the destination, as well as all meals, lodging, excursions and a translator. Like other tours in Bolivia, you can look into booking ahead, online, before you travel. This option is usually more expensive, but it also suggests an organized and reliable source.
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Sports and Recreation
Also, many pre-organized mountain tours will combine a couple of Andean countries. Bolivia, Peru and Ecuador are most frequently grouped together, making this a good way to get a taste of the Andean region. You can organize your trip from home, online, or once you get to Bolivia. La Paz offers the most options, though you can sort something out from just about any of the tourist towns. Updated: Oct 26, 2009.
in Bolivia, as many tour companies provide online services which can be accessed from home, or elsewhere on the road. Your best bet is to get online and search what it is you want to do, when you want to do it, and how you want it done; it’s all out there. Check out Tucan Travel or GAP Adventures Worldwide, two of the leading organized tour companies in South America. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Organized Tours Many travelers choose to set up tours once they get to their destination. This is a lessexpensive option, though also less stable, as tours can fill up or run on a schedule that doesn’t fit your plans. For this reason, many travelers choose to pre-arrange tours with companies that offer organized packages. To set it all up beforehand is a fairly simple task
Soccer (fútbol) is easily the country’s most popular sport, with makeshift matches often taking place in parks and streets. Even President Morales has been known to host a celebrity soccer match or two.
Sports and Recreation
Local teams have loyal supporters, and a great match to attend is the La Paz derby between the most famous clubs in the first
Ecotourism Ecotourism in Bolivia has boomed in the last decade. There are many valid ecolodges that have little to no negative effect on the environment and help you truly appreciate Bolivia’s natural beauty. However, many hotels claim to be eco-lodges (many simply by adding the prefix “eco-” to all goods and services) without following basic steps to guarantee ecological protection. All good eco-lodges should follow a few basic guidelines. 1. Minimal environmental impact should be the fundamental goal of every eco-operator. How a hotel or tour operator manages its impact will tell you immediately if it is truly ecologically minded. Ecologically responsible businesses recycle, conserve water and energy, manage waste properly (i.e. implement composting and gray water projects) and allow guests to choose whether or not to change linens or towels daily. These simple efforts make a huge difference in the long-term environmental impact of tourism. 2. Conservation may be practiced in many different ways. Habitat preservation is one of the principal forms of conservation. Habitats may be preserved by establishing private reserves, supporting established national parks and reserves, or funding native tree reforestation projects. Although protected areas may be visited by tourists, it is important to recognize that their
primary purpose is preservation. Whenever visiting a protected area, your visit should be made with minimal impact. 3. Sustainability is vital to the long-term success of ecotourism. The majority of products consumed at an eco-facility should be locally produced. Furthermore, construction should be done using local materials and methods, and local organic gardens should be the source of the majority of the food served. Ultimately, sustainability means a lifestyle that is in balance and that can be maintained indefinitely without depleting the earth’s resources. 4. Community involvement is a crucial aspect of ecotourism. Ecotourism should generate revenue for the local economy without harming the environment. Ideally, the community should own the establishment. If this is not possible, the operation should at least employ local labor. Moreover, in addition to generating revenue and providing employment, eco-establishments should sponsor community development projects. 5. Environmental education teaches others to be ecologically responsible. Every guest should leave an eco-facility having learned something about environmental preservation and cultural sensitivity. This ensures the continued growth of environmental and cultural awareness. Updated: Feb 17, 2010.
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Adventure Travel
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Hiking Illampu is a huge test of skill, as is the the Mapiri Trail, a week-long tromp that requires a machete and a tolerance for fabric-eating insects. Visitors can complete the awesome Trans-Cordillera Trek, which covers the range in its entirety, or walk the thousand-year-old Camino de Oro, an old Inca trade route.
Other common recreational activities include volleyball and basketball, as well as auto racing, bullfighting and boxing. Tennis and golf are popular pastimes for those who can afford them. There are professional-quality links in Cochabamba, Santa Cruz, and La Paz, which has the world’s highest course (3,350 m / 11,000 ft). Updated: Aug 14, 2009.
In the Amazon Basin, there are a number of treks around Rurrenabaque, and the trails around Lake Titicaca and on Isla del Sol feature striking views.
Adventure Travel
If a route dubbed the “World’s Most Dangerous Road” doesn’t scream adventure, what does? That road down the Cordillera is one of just a number of world-class adventure sites in Bolivia. There are mountains to hike, glaciers to climb, rivers to raft and jungles to traverse. In fact, it’s hard to think of an adventure sport that you can’t practice in Bolivia. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Hiking
Bolivia is bursting with stellar hiking opportunities, and has yet to fully exploit their tourism potential–all the more reason to visit now, as you’ll have the trails all to yourself. Walking in hilly La Paz practically qualifies as hiking, and the administrative capital is a major gateway to the Cordillera Real and Cordillera Alpobamba, where you can ramble from the Andes’ highest reaches to the subtropical Yungas valley. Trails weave through the Amazon Basin and the western Cordillera Oriental, and in the dusty Southwest, canyon paths lead to curious rock formations. The best time to hike in Bolivia is between May and September, outside of the rainy season, when commanding views aren’t hampered by cloud cover. Organized treks are easier than going it alone, as you’ll be fed, transported to and from the trails, and even have your gear carried for you, for a little extra. Hiking in Northwestern Bolivia The Cordillera Real has a vast network of routes and boasts the towering Mount Illimani and Illampu; there is easy access from La Paz and Sorata, which is also a great jumping off point for hikes in the Cordillera Apolobamba and the Amazon Basin.
Hiking in the Central Highlands Sucre is a great base for a number of hikes to multiple destinations, including a crater, waterfalls and dinosaur tracks. Day hikes from Sucre in the Cordillera de los Frailes will bring you to ancient rock paintings or along a paved pre-Inca trail. From Potosí you can hike to, and around, man-made lagoons. Hiking in Southwestern Bolivia Strike out from Tupiza for El Cañon, a craggy area noted for its labrynthine stretch of red rock formations. The Quebrada del Palmiro and Valle de los Machos (Valley of the Males), home to phallic rocks, can also be accessed from Tupiza by following a dried riverbed. There are also worthwhile hikes in the Reserva Biologica Cordillera de Sama. Hiking Safety When hiking in Bolivia, be aware of altitude sickness. Don’t plan on doing long hikes within your first few days. It is important initially to rest for a few days and drink lots of bottled water. Once acclimatized and hiking, be on your guard for symptoms of altitude sickness, which include severe headaches, drowsiness, confusion, dry cough, and/or breathlessness. If symptoms continue, it is important to get to a lower altitude and rest. Altitude sickness can come on suddenly if you experience a sudden change of altitude. In addition to altitude sickness, make sure that you are appropriately equipped with a decent pair of hiking shoes, a wind/waterproof jacket, hat, scarf, gloves, quick-drying pants and plenty of warm gear. It gets really cold at these high altitudes—don’t head out unprepared, even if it looks nice and sunny. Dress in layers and don’t forget to bring sunglasses and sunscreen—despite the cold, the sun can burn you more quickly at these altitudes. Be sure to take lots of water and snacks with you too. Updated: Feb 11, 2010.
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division: Club Bolívar and The Strongest— the country’s oldest team. The sky-high Estadio Hernando Siles gives the national team an advantage over breathless rivals, but unfortunately, Bolivia has performed so poorly on the road that it has only qualified for the World Cup three times—the last being in 1994.
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Climbing
intro & info
Climbing
Mountain climbing is reason enough to visit Bolivia. Climbing and mountaineering activities are largely located in Bolivia’s western half where the Andes form three high-altitude mountain chains. The Cordillera Occidental is essentially a long line of volcanoes, some dormant and some active. Bolivia’s highest peak, the snowcapped Nevado Sajama (6,542 m / 21,463 ft), is located here and is a popular destination for climbers. Most of the northern part of this range has an elevation of about 4,000 meters (13,123 ft); the southern part is somewhat lower. The Cordillera Real runs a jagged course near La Paz. Some of the peaks in the chain exceed 6,000 meters (19,685 ft), and two— Illimani (6,462 m / 21,200 ft), which overlooks the city of La Paz, and Illampu (6,424 m / 21,076 ft.)—have large glaciers on their upper slopes. Those peaks, along with Huayna Potosí, and the Condoriri area, constitute some of the most popular climbs in Bolivia. The Cordillera Real is recognized as one of the best climbing areas in Bolivia for its stunning natural beauty, mild and clear weather, and easy access from La Paz. South of the capital, the Cordillera Central stretches out in a series of steep cliffs and plateaus rising above the Altiplano. This little-visited area is packed with climbing opportunities. Many climbers practice altitude acclimatization. Altitude acclimatization is the process of adjusting to decreasing oxygen levels at progressively higher elevations, in order to avoid altitude sickness. This process takes anywhere from a day to a week, depending on the height of the mountain being climbed. It is best to tackle bigger climbs with a guide. You can find options for experienced guides in and around La Paz. Guides will almost always include the cost of meals and climbing, portage, local transportation to climb sites and equipment such as tents and ropes. Being physically fit and capable of performing the climb is a prerequisite, so please enquire with possible guides about the physical requirements. Updated: Dec 09, 2009.
Rafting and Kayaking
Rafting and kayaking in Bolivia are relatively underdeveloped, but the country offers almost limitless rivers for white water adventures. In fact, Bolivia hosts many uncharted
challenges that more conventional rafting countries such as Ecuador and Costa Rica just can’t match. Luckily for those new to the sport, there is also now a growing amount of organized kayaking and rafting trips springing up around the country. Where to go Bolivia’s best known whitewater site is the Río Tuichi, on the eastern side of the Andes. It’s a wild, fast-flowing river with Class II to V rapids, which runs through the stunning scenery of Parque Nacional Madidi. The waters flow past canyons, mountain ranges and lush tropical forest, giving you the opportunity to see a vast array of wildlife on your journey. Rafting along the Tuichi River is normally offered as part of a multi-day tour with four days of rafting combined with hiking and traveling by 4x4. The Río Grande, located in the tropical lowlands of Santa Cruz, offers class II and III rapids, making it ideal for beginners. The river snakes through canyons and greenery, past huge rock formations, to sites such as the Devil’s Canon and the Rocky Heart. Multiday tours can be arranged in Cochabamba. Rafting and kayaking from Villa Tunari in the Chapare region can also be organized in Cochabamba. You can book one- or two-day trips combined with other activities such as trekking and rappelling. The Yungas near La Paz offer a wealth of rafting and kayaking opportunities as well. Río Coroico, Río Huarinillas and Río Unduavi, all found in Parque Nacional Cotapata in the northern Yungas, provide excellent intermediate rafting settings. There’s good kayaking along the Río Coroico and also in the southern Yungas along the La Paz, Bopi and Tamanpaya rivers.Updated: Jun 24, 2009.
Mountain Biking
Bolivia’s dry climate and dramatic Andean terrain make it a top destination for mountain bikers. Although the sport is still new here, it’s growing in popularity and there are numerous trails and destinations to choose from. The most popular route is the incredible journey from La Paz to Coroico, referred to as the “World’s Most Dangerous Road” due to its steep descents and hairpin turns. Novices and experts alike can attempt the ride, though going with a tour operator is recommended. Gravity Bolivia (p. 82) is a well-known, trusted guide
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Horseback Riding
Other good routes in Bolivia include the descent of the Zonga Valley to Yungas, the beautiful scenery of Sorata and the Chacaltaya-to-La Paz route (a descent from the world’s highest ski slope). There are tour operators which offer multi-day trips as well, and they can take you through the Altiplano, visiting famous sights, such as Lake Titicaca on the way. Some trails are more challenging than others, such as the hills and mountains surrounding Sorata, which can require technical skills in places. Make sure you pick a route that is within your capabilities. It is also good to keep in mind that most of these trails are at very high altitudes. As with hiking and climbing anywhere in the Andes, you should give yourself time to acclimate to the altitude. This could take anywhere from a few days to a week. While acclimating to the altitude, make sure to take it easy and stay hydrated. This should shorten the time it takes your body to adapt and help you get on the mountain biking trails as soon as possible. Updated: Dec 10, 2009.
west’ landscape to fulfill your dreams of being a cowboy. This, of course, is the place where Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid allegedly met their deaths, and is probably the most popular place for visitors to go riding in Bolivia. On multiple-day trips, you can spend the night in local villages huddled around a campfire. The guides are normally local boys who probably learned how to ride horses before they knew how to walk. Western saddles are normally used in this area of the country. You can also go riding in Entre Ríos, which is about 150 kilometers (93 mi) from Tarija. The landscape here is notably different, with grasslands and sub-tropical valleys. This is also Bolivian horse country—the nearby Chaco region is dominated by cattle ranching. Elsewhere in the lowlands, there are a number of hotels in and around Santa Cruz that offer horseback riding. There are some sand dunes close to the city that you can enjoy on horseback and, if you’re feeling adventurous, you can explore the unique wetlands of the Bolivian Pantanal or the swamps around Rurrenabaque.
Horseback Riding
A number of tour agencies offer cabalgatas (treks) along the Inca Trails around the town of Samaipata. Here you can ride through ravines and rivers in the valleys surrounding the town, and also see archaeological ruins. If you choose to go riding for a couple of days you can camp out in the beautiful scenery.
It’s possible to ride by lagoons, over sand dunes, and through grasslands, cloud forests and deep gorges. You can also ride around unique settings, such as Lake Titicaca and pre-Inca ruins.
The spectacular valleys in the southern parts of the city of La Paz provide ideal terrain to explore by horseback. There are also a number of private clubs where you can hire horses—for a price. Some agencies in La Paz and Copacabana will take you for day rides around Lake Titicaca. It’s also possible to see the sights at Tiahuanaco from the comfort of a saddle.
Horseback riding in Bolivia may not be as organized as it is in neighboring countries such as Argentina, but there are plenty of opportunities to take to the saddle and enjoy Bolivia’s spectacular scenery.
There are a number of tour agencies around the country that can organize horseback riding—anything from an hour up to multipleday tours. It’s quite common for companies to offer trips in which riding is combined with other activities, such as mountain biking, fishing or 4x4 jeep treks. In smaller towns, there will often be a local with horses who is able to take tourists out on rides. Ask around for recommendations. Horseback Riding Hotspots The huge red rock formations and deep canyons around Tupiza provide the perfect ‘wild
In the semi-tropical valleys near La Paz, horses are also available for hire. In Coroico, you can ride along dirt tracks through local settlements and plantations, and in Sorata, get a spectacular view from trails clinging to the cliff edge. Precautions Always be sure to check the condition of the horse and look out for signs that they have been mistreated—if you are unsure don’t ride. It’s also a good idea to check the state of
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with offices in La Paz and a user-friendly website. Other operators, including Global Adventure Guide and Millennium Adventure Expedition, can be tracked down with a little investigation.
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intro & info
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Birdwatching
the tack (both western and English saddles are used in Bolivia). If you feel at all uncomfortable on your mount, be sure to ask to change horses or get off. Take note—safety helmets are not generally provided in Bolivia. Updated: Nov 01, 2008.
Birdwatching
Bolivia is a perfect country for the adventurous birdwatcher, with upwards of 1,400 species and a huge variety of habitats. In fact, Bolivia has the highest number of bird species of any land-locked country. Despite this, birdwatching in Bolivia is relatively underdeveloped and offers unrivalled opportunities for those willing to put in a bit of effort. There are a number of specialist tour operators who offer a wide range of birdwatching tours all over the country with expert, English-speaking guides. If you want to organize your own trip, the Bolivian bird conservation organization, Asociación Armonía (www.armonia-bo.org) is a good place to start. The Bird Bolivia tourism agency has links with Asociación Armonía and is a wonderful resource on birding across the country (www.birdbolivia.com). The Bolivian lowlands offer the highest diversity of birds in the country, while the tropical foothills of the Yungas hold the most endemic species. In the Andean highlands and lagoons, unique birdlife such as flamingos and Andean condor can be found. There are also decent birdwatching sites within an hour’s drive of La Paz, Santa Cruz and Cochabamba. Lowlands The best time to go birdwatching in the lowlands is probably between May and December, as travel to remote spots in the rainy season can be very difficult. The northern lowlands are where you’ll find most of Bolivia’s tropical rainforest and the birdlife that goes with it. Parque Nacional Madidi offers some of the best birdwatching in the area, with over 1,000 species, roughly 11 percent of all the world’s birds. The best site in the park is said to be Alto Madidi, where there are over 60 species of flycatcher and over 40 different species of antbird. The site has very little tourism infrastructure, so you’ll have to take your own tent and food. Some tour agents in Rurrenabaque may be able to take you there. More comfortable is the Chalaran eco-lodge, which doesn’t share
the same richness of bird diversity but is a lot more accessible. The area houses 300 species including the blue-and-yellow macaw, amazonian pygmy owl, semi-collared puffbird and many types of woodcreeper. Asociación Armonía runs a luxury wilderness lodge in the Amazon basin called SelvaBlue, in the department of Beni. The area contains grassland, dry forest, rainforest and swamps, and is one of the only places in Bolivia that has a closed habitat, where many unusual birds can be found. It is said to house up to 400 species of bird, including the horned and southern screamer, rufous-sided pygmy-tyrant, curl-crested jay, large-billed antwren, channel-billed toucan, point-tailed palmcreeper, coal-crested finch and greater rhea. The lodge is pretty remote but can be visited all year round by plane. The breeding season, which runs from late October to late November, is a good time to visit. Facilities include a pick-up truck, seven motor boats and four observation towers—one which has overnight facilities. Parque Nacional Noel Kempff Mercado is another area that contains pristine closed habitat and is one of the most intact parks in the Amazon Basin. It has a huge range of habitats in a small area and houses around 620 bird species, 20 percent of all those found in South America. Some of the birds found here include the rufous-winged antshrike, blue finch, chestnut-fronted macaw, yellow-tufted woodpecker, chalk-browed mockingbird, paradise tanager, crimsonbellied parakeet, and the black-and-tawny seedeater. The tourism infrastructure in the park is limited: there are two lodges but they are not always accessible—one can only be reached by plane much of the year, and the other has fallen into disrepair. From the Amazon Basin to the Andes Refugio Los Volcanes is on the edge of Parque Nacional Amboró, where the Andes, the Chaco and the Amazon Basin meet—a unique geographical position that brings a distinctive mix of birdlife. Around 200 species have been indentified here in the varied forests including the Bolivian recurvebill, slaty gnateater, thick-billed euphonia, turquoise-fronted parrot and piratic flycatcher. You need to make a reservation before arriving at the lodge. In the neighboring Parque
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Wildlife Watching Nacional Carrasco you can find Oilbird caves —get information on how to visit from the park’s central office in Cochabamba.
The road leading from Cochabamba to Villa Tunari in the Chapare region heralds a variety of different habitats including cloud forests. The scimitar-winged pihia and hooden martin toucan have been seen in this area. The road from La Paz to Coroico also offers great birdwatching, beginning with species such as the puna ibis and speckled teal on the highest part of the road, to the black-eared parrot, black-throated thistletail, rufous-faced antpitta and the hooded mountain toucan in the Yungas. Lake Titicaca offers a unique environment to see some of the typical Andean birds that live around these high waters, including the flightless short-winged grebe, Andean lapwing and black siskin. Further south on the Altiplano, in and around Parque Nacional Sajama, you’re pretty much guaranteed to see a stand of Chilean flamingos amongst the lagoons and geysers. Seed-snipers, ground tyrants, teals and puna rhea are also fairly common in the area. Updated: Nov 03, 2008.
Wildlife Watching
For ecological diversity, few countries can beat Bolivia. The fun begins as soon as you get below the snowline. The mountain slopes offer fantastic birding and some fascinating wildlife viewing opportunities. However, one of the greatest places to observe the beauty of Bolivia is the Altiplano. Despite its harsh terrain, the Altiplano offers some of the most intriguing wildlife watching in the world. With a good guide, you should have a good chance of seeing alpacas, vicuñas and vizcachas (a rodent that looks like a cross between a squirrel and a rabbit).
If you are especially lucky, you might even get to see a gray fox. The eastern side of the country, the tropical lowlands, include great animal-watching in its varied habitats. In the arid south, keep an eye open for the Chacoan peccary, a large mammal that wasn’t discovered until the 1970s. The Gran Chaco is also a center of armadillo diversity, with at least eight different species. Consider going to Parque Nacional Kaa-Iya, created and run by indigenous people of the region, and one of the world’s most innovative and fascinating national parks. Of course, for sheer biodiversity, the Amazon Basin literally cannot be beat. The region begins with the Llanos de Mamore, which gently drops into the Amazon Basin proper. There is an abundance of animals to choose to watch—capybaras, monkeys, snakes, tapirs, frogs, and even dolphins are just some of the animals that you have an excellent chance of seeing in the area. For wildlife watching in Bolivia, but especially in the Amazon, hiring a guide might well be worth it. The sheer diversity and complexity of the eco-systems means that you have a much better chance of seeing what you came to see if you have an expert to help you along. Updated: Dec 31, 2009.
Studying Spanish
Bolivia is a great place for students of all levels to learn Spanish. Its low cost of living makes it more affordable than other Latin American countries. Bolivia is also a good location because of its clean dialect and neutral accents. Unlike countries such as Chile or Argentina, the vocabulary is not ruled by slang, and aside from the very remote mountain villages and Altiplano areas, Bolivian Spanish is quite easy to understand. As far as a program or course goes, you can plan ahead and study with a specific school or organization, finding something online and booking it before you begin your journey. However, it is much more common to just show up and ask around for contacts. As studying Spanish is so common in some of the more “backpacker” destinations, it is simple to find what you’re looking for once you are there. Courses or lessons usually run from $2-5 per hour, and they might include one-on-one tuition, group classes, classroom learning, cultural excursions and any number of other options.
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The red-fronted macaw eco-lodge, another site run by Asociación Armonía, is situated across the river from the most important breeding spot of this endangered Bolivian parrot. Proceeds from the hotel go towards protecting the species. Many other parrots and parakeets are also resident and a total of 130 birds have been identified in the area. The best time to visit is in the breeding season between May and early November. The lodge can be found next to the town of Perrereta, off a dirt road running from Sucre towards Samaipata.
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Volunteering in Bolivia
Many of the established language schools even set up events, home-stays, and specialized classes (such as dancing or cooking), so be sure to look around for what meets your needs. With an additional charge, most schools can set up homestays with local Bolivian families. If you are looking to perfect your Spanish, a homestay is highly recommended, as it forces you to forgo your native language and to speak exclusively in Spanish. The chance to live in a homestay is a unique opportunity that will present you with an inside look at the Bolivian culture that you just can’t get staying in a hotel. As Sucre is Bolivia’s educational capital, many travelers choose to set up shop here for a while. It is a pleasant, whitewashed city with numerous cultural centers, tourist information offices and opportunities for private or communal classes. Here you can swing by Joy Ride Café (p. 233), the default gringo gathering spot, and get some recommendations. Other popular places to study Spanish in Bolivia include La Paz, Copacabana and Coroico. As in Sucre, you can easily access information about courses through gringo hangouts or look online for more structured programs. Updated: Jun 18, 2009.
Studying Quechua / Aymara
Quechua, the official language of the Inca Empire, is the most widely spoken indigenous language in the Americas. Over 10 million people in Bolivia, Argentina, Ecuador, Colombia and Peru speak some form of Quechua, which linguists refer to as a family of at least seven languages with 46 dialects. Aymara remains the first language of around two million indigenous in Bolivia, Peru and Chile. If you are keen to learn the indigenous languages of Bolivia while there, you are in luck. With encouragement from the Morales government and renewed interest in all things indigenous, learning Quechua, Aymara and more remote languages is more popular than ever. Quechua and Aymara share a large amount of vocabulary and, while most language schools in Bolivia and Latin America teach only Spanish, some of the bigger schools now offer courses—though make note, your best bet is complete immersion. Homestays, volunteer projects, work and, on rare occasions, actual classes in a local indigenous community are great ways to pick up more than a few words here and there. To set something up, talk with local Spanish schools or exchange programs. If you’re trying
to set something up before you reach Bolivia, look into programs at either western or Bolivian universities, or check out the study abroad directory (www.iiepassport.com). Indigenous language instruction is available from Cochabamba-based Escuela Runawasi (www. runawasi.org) and the Sustainable Bolivia Language School (www.sustainablebolivia.org). Updated: March 08, 2010.
Volunteering in Bolivia
There are a wealth of opportunities for volunteering in Bolivia, from state-run children’s homes to animal refuges. The best way to organize a placement is to contact an organisation directly, go through a reputable company within Bolivia, or through a non-profit organisation outside the country. You will normally be required to commit to at least a few weeks, longer in children’s homes, and have a working knowledge of Spanish. There are volunteer opportunities throughout the VIVA Bolivia listings, but to get a better idea of some of the placements available look at the following websites: www.volunteersouthamerica.net, www.vivabolivia.org/projects, www.boliviaparalosninos.org, www.intiwarayassi.org If you do choose to go through a for-profit organization in your own country, for which there will be a large fee, be sure to find out exactly where your money goes and how much money will go to the project in Bolivia. Talk to the organization in question about visa requirements—it is now very difficult to volunteer for more than three months without having to pay expensive visa fees (see Visas for more details, p. 31). Updated: Dec 18, 2009.
Working in Bolivia
Most paid work available in Bolivia is English teaching, as native speakers are in short supply. You will have a far better chance of finding work if you have some formal qualification, or at least some experience. Contact some language schools in advance to see if they are hiring teachers, or visit in person when you arrive—expect to get paid about $6 an hour. Some bilingual schools also hire native speakers to teach standard high school subjects such as math or science. Ask if the schools will help with your visa costs—the fees for getting a one year
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Living in Bolivia
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and volunteer organizations can help you find a homestay.
Some of the larger hostels in Bolivia now offer free accommodation in exchange for working in the hostel—you’ll find info on their websites. Updated: Dec 18, 2009.
The cost of living can be expensive in relation to local wages. Basic food items, such as bread and rice, are relatively cheap, but imported foods are expensive. Toiletries, such as shampoo, are considered luxuries and are pricey, as are imported medicines, which can cost you as much as they do in Europe or the U.S.
Living in Bolivia
Bolivia has a growing expat population and there are plenty of foreign-owned bars, restaurants and tour operators throughout the country, as well as a large number of NGO (non-governmental organizations) workers. Most of this community is spread around Bolivia’s major cities, but there are also a number of smaller settlements that have a large expat presence, including Samaipata in the Santa Cruz Department and Coroico in the semi-tropical Yungas near La Paz.
If you plan to stay in Bolivia for more than a few months, you will have to apply for temporary residency, which requires a work contract or proof of how you finance yourself during your time in the country. See work visas for more details (p. 32). Updated: Feb 17, 2010.
Lodging
Coming from almost any other country, you will be pleasantly surprised by Bolivia’s accommodation offerings. This doesn’t necessarily mean that all lodging will be of the highest quality, but it’s almost guaranteed that if you are looking for the lowest prices, you will find them here. Bolivia offers a range of options, including alojamientos, residencias, hostels, hotels, lodges and so on, to fit travelers’ needs and budgets.
Paula Newton
It is completely acceptable to ask to see your room before committing and most places allow you to pay upon checkout (though some require payment to secure a reservation). For high-end hotels or eco-lodges, look to book online or over the phone, as there are fewer throughout Bolivia and thus often less vacancy. Updated: Jul 23, 2009.
Hotels/ Hostels/ Posadas/ Casas de Huéspedes
In La Paz, expect to pay around $100 for a room in a furnished apartment in the center, although you can find unfurnished rooms on the outskirts of town for considerably less than this. If you want to rent your own apartment, you will normally be required to sign a year contract and leave a deposit of at least one month’s rent. Rental costs vary greatly, from around $150 for an unfurnished one-bedroom apartment, to $1,000 for a four-bedroom furnished penthouse. You could also consider living with a Bolivian family—a good option if you’re learning Spanish. Many language schools
Although the exact characteristics and proportions change from town to town, Bolivia has distinct system of classifying hotels, hostels, residencias, alojamientos and casas de huéspedes. Hotels There are many pleasant mid-range options and even luxury spas, lodges and five-star resorts in Bolivia (though not many), which are usually are included in the “hotel” category. While hotels are usually considered high-quality, beware, as anyone, anywhere, can call their accommodation a “hotel.” This is common in smaller towns, and it’s best to
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temporary residency are pricey (see work visas for more details, p. 32).
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Camping
intro & info
check your room and services included upon arrival and before paying. Most hotels should include hot showers, cable TV and breakfast—though this is just a rule of thumb. Hostels Hostels (or hostals), as is the case in most of the world, cater to the backpacker set. It’s helpful to know that Bolivia hosts a number of Hostelling International locations, where card-carrying members get a 10 percent discount and accommodations are expected to meet HI standards. Check their website,www.hostellinginternational.com, to find out how to become a member. Note that you are unlikely to find hostels in small pueblos or mountain towns (look for residenciales or alojamientos), as they are more common in large cities. Residencias, Alojamientos and Casas de Huéspedes Considered the bottom of the barrel when it comes to quality, these are still often viable options for travelers. Indeed, in smaller towns, these will be your only options. Some really are crummy, with frigid showers and lots of bugs, but no bedding. Others, however, are pleasant places to stay a night or two, and definitely worth checking out. You will probably run into locals at residencias and alojamientos, as they are the more common patrons. A good casa de huésped can be almost like a bed and breakfast of sorts, providing room and board in a homelike setting. Updated: Jun 22, 2009.
Camping
Given Bolivia’s exquisitely sculpted landscape, it’s no surprise that so many visitors would rather sleep outside than in a fancy hotel. Bolivia is the perfect place to escape from the chaos of everyday life, providing a rare opportunity to trade in your smartphone, laptop and TV for a tent, a sleeping bag and some breathtaking (sometimes literally) views. With over 20 national parks and endless hiking and trekking routes, there are plenty of places to set up camp in Bolivia. Most camping is done in conjunction with hiking and trekking, often with the help of local tours or guides. The most popular treks generally begin in La Paz and end in the northern Yungas. Ancient, well-known trails include: Choro, Mapiri, Takesi and Yunga Cruz. If traveling with a guide, most of the necessary equipment (i.e. tent, sleeping bag,
stove) will be provided, but feel free to use your own gear if it is of better quality. If you bring your own stove, a multi-fuel model is your best bet. Unlike white gas, which can be scarce, kerosene is very easy to find. Alcohol burning stoves are not optimal, as they require more fuel, but methylated alcohols are generally available. If you decide to set up camp in an area seldom frequented by tourists, first make sure that your presence is welcome. Around villages, ask a local official or the owner of the land for permission. Theft is quite common, so never leave your belongings unattended and don’t tell too many people about your site. However, not everyone has bad intentions. Some Bolivians may never have laid eyes on fancy camping equipment before, so their attention may be nothing but curiosity. When it’s time to depart, try to leave the countryside as healthy and clean as it was when you got there—if not more so! Take your trash away, including toilet paper and try to do your “business” away from water, burying it nice and deep. Lastly, only use hygienic products that are biodegradable and nature friendly. Say thank you to Bolivia by doing your part to preserve these beautiful areas so that others can enjoy them for years to come. Updated: Jul 14, 2009.
Eco-lodges
Eco-lodges are a relatively new sight on the Bolivian scene. Though few in number, with prices on the higher end, they offer a unique insight into community life. The Albergue Ecologico Chalalán (see p. 359) in Parque Nacional Medidi is the country’s first community-run ecotourism venture. Locally owned lodges greatly benefit indigenous communities by providing them with an alternative source of revenue to unsustainable practices such as deforestation. They also help by providing job opportunities for the younger generation, keeping them in the community rather than losing them to jobs in the city. Lodge cabins vary from simple to luxurious; many have traditional architectural designs and were built using indigenous materials. Typically, rooms come with plenty of modern amenities like private bathrooms with hot water. One of the biggest perks of staying at an ecolodge in the jungle is the variety of activities available, from boat trips and birdwatching tours, to swimming in natural pools. Lodges in other parts of Bolivia offer salt flat treks and
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Food and Drink
Food and Drink
In Bolivia, the main meal is lunch: most workers try to go home to eat during the week. A proper Bolivian lunch consists of soup, a main course and possibly even dessert. The most important element in Bolivian food is the potato: it is common to see potatoes in some form served with almost every meal. Pasta and rice are also favorite starches. As for meat, Bolivians eat a lot more pork than people in the United States or Canada. Chicken and beef are also common, and you’ll see the occasional restaurant offering goat, llama or cuy (guinea pig!). Vegetarianism is not a particularly well understood practice in Bolivia, and you
will probably have to explicitly explain that you don’t eat meat, pork or chicken. Rice, beans, quinoa, corn and potatoes are available in pretty much every Bolivian kitchen, so you should be able to find something to eat. For those expecting chalupas and fajitas, be warned: Bolivian food is nothing like Mexican food. In fact, Bolivian food is typically rather bland, although you may find a mild hot sauce, llajwa, at your table to spice things up a little. traditional dishes Bolivia is home to many special, regional foods for you to sample and enjoy. Chicharrón is little bits of fried pork, most of which are quite fatty, served with boiled corn. A popular snack, it’s not really considered a main dish anywhere. Humitas are little balls of corn dough, stuffed with cheese and then wrapped in a corn or banana leaf before being steamed.
Quinoa The United Nations has already declared it a super food, NASA is considering feeding it to its astronauts, and supermarkets across the U.S., Canada and Europe are on the look-out for this new phenomenal food, quinoa. Not bad for a tiny 1/8 of an inch seed hailing from the Andean highlands of South America. Despite its recent move towards popularity, Quinoa, pronounced (KEEN-Wah) is nothing new. In fact, Peruvians have been eating the cereal crop since as far back as 3000 BC. In Quechua, the dominant language of the Incas, quinoa is known as chisiya mama or “mother grain.” However, Quinoa is actually not a grain, but rather it is a seed that grows from the Chenopodium or Goosefoot plant. It has a high nutrient content and is glutenfree, making it easy to digest. Light and fluffy when cooked, Quinoa is similar to couscous or rice. It can be used in a variety of dishes; in Bolivia, it is most common in soups. The glory of quinoa, though, is that it can been creatively added, substituted for, or simply used in nearly every dish from soups and pastas to salads and cereals. It can also fortify breads, pastries and cookies.
Although it has a mild nut flavor when baked, raw Quinoa can taste quite bitter and can be crunchy and hard since it protected by a coating called saponin. Saponin can be toxic to the body, so before cooking, the first step is to remove the saponins by soaking the seeds in water for a few hours and then running water over it. Most boxed quinoa has been pre-rinsed before packaging. After rinsing the seeds, its time to cook the quinoa, which is very similar to cooking rice, though it takes a shorter amount of time: Measure 1 cup of dry quinoa, rinse in a strainer, and put the grains into a 2-quart saucepan. Add 2 cups of water and a dash of salt. Cover and bring to a boil over high heat. Turn heat down to low and let sit for 15 to 20 minutes. As the seed cooks, the germ is unfolds itself and forms a tiny white spiral circle. Quinoa, like rice, can double its size during the cooking process. But when it’s done, fluff it with a fork and add it to whatever you please, because not only will it be nutritious, but it might just become your next comfort food.
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intro & info
recreational outings. You can also learn about the region’s diverse plant life and get close to animals like caimans and capybaras. Some lodges even allow you to help out by working in a herb garden or by making chocolate. Updated: Feb 17, 2010.
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Chicha
Salteñas are small pastries full of meat and vegetables, such as potatoes, peas and carrots, usually eaten for breakfast. Sometimes they’re sweetened. Bolivian empanadas are little bread rolls full of cheese, and sometimes onions and other ingredients as well. They’re good for a snack while on the go. Bolivia has a number of appealing meat dishes, too. Fritanga is a heart-punishing dish of greasy fried pork. There are many reasons why you shouldn’t eat it, including heart disease and the questionable nature of Bolivian pork, but only one reason why you should eat it: it’s delicious. Turn up the knob on your pacemaker and dig in. Ever wondered what llama tastes like? Who hasn’t? Here’s your chance to find out. Charque de llama is dried llama meat, fried and served with corn and cheese. Lechón al horno is roast suckling pig, usually served with (what else?) potatoes. Bolivians are confirmed soup-lovers. Classic examples include changa (or chanka) de pollo, a chicken soup, prepared with potatoes, onions and peppers. You’ll also see it prepared with guinea pig and rabbit. Sopa de quinoa is also a popular dish, and usually includes vegetables and chicken in the recipe.
drinks Of course, you’ll need something to wash down all of the meat potatoes. Chicha is a sour drink made from fermented corn. It is usually made at home and not commercially available. This drink has been enjoyed in the region since the time of the Inca. Tojorí is a hot, thicker version of chicha, also made from corn. Singani is an alcoholic drink similar to the pisco popular in Chile and Peru. It is usually served on ice, mixed with Sprite or some sort of sweet juice, such as orange juice. Street food Street food is common in all parts of Bolivia: you’ll frequently see stalls selling salteñas, empanadas and other local delicacies, usually at very low prices. The food, for those brave enough to try it, is usually quite tasty. Eating street food, while convenient, cheap and yummy, is also a bit dangerous, as you’ll be at a higher risk for developing diarrhea and other illnesses. The choice is essentially yours: wanna roll the dice? For some, it’s worth it: cheap and good beats out potentially risky any day. For others, their health is more important than any given meal, and the savings are insignificant when compared with possible costs in medicine and lost time. Updated: Dec 17, 2007.
Chicha Made from a yellow maize commonly known as chicha de jora, Bolivia’s national alcoholic beverage, chicha, dates back to the days of the Inca Empire when women were taught how to brew the drink in special schools called Acllahuasis. These women were usually the Aqllakuna or “chosen women” of the king. Made from corn which is traditionally chewed and spat out before being allowed to ferment, the drink manifests as thick, pale and yellow with a slightly bitter after taste, which it has been said to be reminiscent of hard apple cider, and is famed for its alcoholic strength. It seems an enzyme in the saliva of the chewer releases the desired starch in the maize. Academics say the word chicha comes from the Kuna word chichab, meaning maize. Chicha held ritual significance for the Incas
who believed their grain was a gift of the gods, and thus consumed it in large quantities during religious festivals. It is tradition to drop a bit of chicha on the ground before and after drinking it as an offering to Pachamama, the Inca earth goddess. Gringos have called chicha the “moonshine of the third world” for its potent effects. It has usually been considered the alcohol of the poorer classes because it is cheap, and for travelers it offers the chance to get thoroughly drunk for pennies. Once a staple of Andean towns, few continue to make the drink today—the best in Bolivia is said to be in the small town of Punata in the Cochabamba region (ask for “dona Berta”). If you are walking through the Bolivian highlands and come across a home flying the traditional white flag out front, you can be sure there is chicha ready for you to drink inside.
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Shopping in Bolivia
Shopping in Bolivia
Bolivia is known for its artesania, handcrafted goods made by local people with local materials. The crafts can come in all shapes and sizes, from hand-painted salt and pepper shakers to tableclothes, ponchos, jewelry and more. While fine art isn’t exactly Bolivia’s forte, you can also pick up prints or originals, either in the streets sold by vendors or in the galleries of La Paz’s Saganaga area. The most popular art is often lifelike drawings of the local indigenous people, or watercolors of chismosas or gossiping women who wear long, black braids, skirts, ponchos and large Panama hats to cover their faces. Other goodies to pick up include embroidered leather (purses, belts, briefcases and so on), chess sets (Andean Indian versus Spanish Conquistador), wine from Tarija, chocolate from Sucre, or really anything else that catches your eye!
If you’re looking for some authentic Bolivian style, check out the bowler hats or multilayered skirts called polleras, both worn by indigenous women on a daily basis. If that’s not your style, you can check out some of the alpaca goods available. Socks, gloves, hats, sweaters, leg warmers, ponchos—you name it, they sell it. It’s all 100 percent alpaca, or so the vendor will claim. As it is illegal to bring any plants or animals out of Bolivia and into other countries, it’s best not to purchase any medicinal plants, pets or livestock. So, while you’ll be mighty tempted to pick up a llama fetus at the Witches’ Market in La Paz, don’t expect to get it through customs. Another tempting item is of course the infamous coca leaf. If you plan to stay within Bolivia, it is OK to purchase small amounts of coca leaves, useful as a remedy for altitude sickness and upset stomach. However, you are not allowed to bring coca out of South America, or even to most other countries in South America. Some of the best shopping in Bolivia is done outdoors. Towns like Sucre, Santa Cruz, Oruro and Potosí have thriving markets, where vendors set up shop in covered stalls, offering all manor of fare, from food, leather goods and musical instruments to all sorts of alpaca knit.
Evo Morales- The Sweater His behavior breaks the norm on many ac- The Bolivian president’s sweater has even counts. He is single, shared a flat with other received international attention: a Mexican MAS (Movimiento al Socialismo) officers radio station wrote a song about “the sweatbefore election, and following the election, er;” which goes in part: cut his salary by 57 percent. But nothing marks Evo Morales’ leadership more dis- The president-elect of Bolivia tinctly than the red, white and blue striped Has a sweater, nothing more alpaca sweater he regularly sports to meet- It’s striped, cozy ings with world dignitaries. The truth is, it’s not so pretty Ohhhh, yeah An Aymara Indian, Mr. Morales is be- Buy him another sweater already. lieved to be the first indigenous president in Bolivian history, and, as such, has Morales’ casual cool has certainly been rerefused to adopt the formal suited look ceived well by his electorate. Reuters reportemployed by the majority of world lead- ed that Bolivians were pleased Morales had ers. He greeted French President Jacques remained true to his roots with the sweater, Chirac in short-sleeves and stood open- or chompa, symbolic of his remaining a necked next to Venezuela’s Hugo Chavez. man of the people. Remarkably, it has also Most impressively, however, he donned become a fashion item. Knitwear company “the sweater” on four continents following Punto Blanco claims it will sell copies of the his December 2005 election. sweater as “a symbol of the president.”
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Whether you’re on a year-long sojourn or just there to see the great Lake Titicaca, Bolivia is THE spot to shop in South America. While it’s not known for highend purchases, there are low costs and an abundance of authentic goods. From multi-street markets to local tiendas, in large cities like La Paz to small towns such as Coroico, filling in that extra space in your luggage will not be an issue.
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Finding Maps in Bolivia
La Paz’s Mercado de Las Brujas (Witches’ Market), located in the Calle Linares district, is the most famous market in the country. This long street sells strange and unique goods, like jars of herbs, animal parts, figurines and potions promising to enhance your sex life. You will also find the Mercado Negro (Black Market) in La Paz, a market which winds through the hilly streets, selling bootlegged goods like TVs, computers, clothes, tools, toilet bowls and pretty much anything else you could imagine. It is said that all that is sold here has been smuggled from Chile, but while it’s not exactly “legal,” even the Bolivian police offer do some shopping in these parts. Similar markets have popped up in the border town of Villazón, as well as in Oruro or Tupiza’s town markets. At whichever market you decide to visit, bargaining is A-OK in Bolivia— in fact, it is expected in most markets and even some stores. You will hear the vendors offering a descuento, or discount, and it’s best to try your luck with an even lower bid. A couple tips on bargaining: If you don’t speak Spanish, ask for a calculadora to type your offering price rather than miscommunicating in Spanglish. Try to buy in bulk, as you are more likely to get a discount that way. Get a feel for the place you are in, who is shopping there, what the personnel is like, to make sure it is appropriate for bartering—you may be able to do so at hair salons or gift shops, but not necessarily the supermarket. Updated: Jun 18, 2009.
Finding Maps in Bolivia
In Bolivia, it sometimes feels like you need a map just to guide you to where all the good maps are! A good place to start is in one of the major cities, particularly in popular tourist areas. Most tourist shops and trekking agencies should have decent maps readily available, but you never really know what each company will have at a given time. And trekkers and hikers be warned, local maps have been known to report inaccurate information regarding elevation and altitude, so you might want to buy a map in your home country before departing for Bolivia. The Bolivia travel reference map by ITMB can be easily purchased online. In addition to detailing road systems and geographical features, the map includes points of interest for tourists, marking monuments, campgrounds and parks. You also may want to check out omnimap.com where you can find
an extensive list of maps for sale. The site lists maps according to activity and location, making it easy to find the best map for your particular trip. Updated: Jun 24, 2009.
Minor Health Problems Altitude Sickness Altitude sickness (soroche) is the ailment you’re most likely to experience in the Andes, particularly in La Paz, Potosí, Sucre and Copacabana. The symptoms of altitude sickness are general malaise and weakness, with some nausea thrown in. Altitude sickness is most likely experienced within 24 hours of ascending to a higher altitude: if you go for a day or so without feeling weak and sick, you probably won’t get it; altitude sickness rarely lasts for more than a day or so. If you think you have altitude sickness, get some bed rest and take some aspirin or other mild painkillers. Bolivians believe that the best thing for altitude sickness is a strong tea made from coca leaves (don’t worry, the tea is legal, though it may lead to positive drug test results). It does, in fact, help: native Andeans have been chewing coca leaves for centuries to stave off the effects of altitude). There is no way to determine if you’re a high risk for altitude sickness. If you’re concerned that you’ll get it, there are some drugs, such as Diamox, which are helpful in preventing it. Motion Sickness Even the hardiest of travelers can be hit by motion sickness on buses in the Andes or boats on Lake Titicaca. Sit near the front of the bus or stay above deck on the boat and focus on the horizon. If you are prone to motion sickness, eat light, non-greasy food before traveling and avoid drinking too much, particularly alcohol. Over-the-counter medications such as Dramamine can prevent motion sickness. If you suffer from severe motion sickness, you may want to get a patch or wristbands. Sunburn / Heat Exhaustion At high altitudes, the sun is incredibly strong. Apply sunscreen with at least an SPF of 30 every few hours when you are outside. Also use sunscreen on the Altiplano to prevent sunburn and windburn. The reflection of the sun off the Salar de Uyuni can cause sunburn as well. If you get a severe sunburn, treat it with a cream and stay out of the sun for a while. To avoid overheating, wear a hat and sunglasses and drink lots of water. The symptoms of heat exhaustion are profuse sweating, weakness, exhaustion,
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Major Health Problems
Traveler’s Diarrhea If you’re careless about what and where you eat, chances are good that you’ll come down with a simple case of the runs. Typically, cases run their course in a few days. If you don’t have to travel, the best thing to do is simply to let the illness run its course: just stay close to home and never too far from a toilet and you’ll soon be as good as new. Drink plenty of fluids, especially rehydrating ones such as Gatorade. If you have to travel, you’ll want to bring along some medicine. Before coming to Bolivia it’s a good idea to pick up an antibiotic, such as quinolone, or an antidiarrheal drug like Lomotil, loperamide or Imodium. In the event of an onset of severe diarrhea or if symptoms persist or worsen, seek medical attention. Updated: Feb 17, 2010.
Major Health Problems
It is recommended that all travelers visit a travel physician 4-8 weeks prior to departure for Bolivia. It is also a good idea to look into medical insurance before traveling in Bolivia. Bug bites are a major cause of serious illnesses in Bolivia, especially in the lowlands. It is essential to take precautions to protect yourself from insects. Apply insect repellent with at least 25-50 percent DEET. Applying repellent to your hair is good way to make the scent stay on your body longer. Sleep under a mosquito net, and wear lightcolored clothes and shirts with long sleeves. Avoid wearing shiny jewelry and using scented soaps or perfumes. Chagas Disease Chagas disease is caused by a parasite transmitted by triatomine bugs, or vinchuca, as they are known in Bolivia. The disease occurs in impoverished rural areas of the country. Triatomine bugs carrying the parasite live in dwellings made from earth, straw and thatch, and can pass Chagas at night when they emerge to bite people’s faces. Infection can also occur through food contaminated with feces from infected bugs. Left undiagnosed and untreated, the disease can become chronic and fatal. There is no vaccine for Chagas disease. Stay in well-built lodgings and protect yourself against bug bites.
Dengue Fever Dengue fever is a flu-like illness transmitted by Aedes mosquitoes, common in both urban and rural areas. Bites normally occur in the daytime. Bolivia experiences frequent Dengue fever outbreaks, mostly in the the departments of Santa Cruz, Beni, Pando and Cochabamba, as well as the area of Yacuiba in the department of Tarija, and in Chuquisaca and La Paz. There is no vaccine for Dengue fever. Take appropriate precautions to protect yourself from insect bites. Hepatitis Hepatitis A and B vaccines are recommended for all travelers to Bolivia. Avoid situations where you could be subject to being punctured by a dirty needle. Stay away from any sort of questionable injection and avoid getting any piercings or tattoos. Leishmaniasis Leishmaniasis is caused by a parasite transmitted by sandflies, most active from dusk to dawn. The disease occurs in the Yungas area of Bolivia and manifests itself in the form of fever, skin ulcers and disfigurement of the mucous membranes of the nose, mouth and throat. There is no vaccine for Leishmaniasis. Protect yourself against insect bites and use finer-meshed mosquito netting. Malaria Malaria is present in areas of Bolivia below 2,500 meters (8,202 ft). Malaria risk is highest in the departments of Beni, Chuquisaca, Cochabamba, Pando, Santa Cruz, Tarija and La Paz Department (North and South Yungas), as well as the provinces of Lacareja and Rurrenabaque. If you are only traveling in the Andes, you run no risk of contracting malaria. If you’re going to travel to Bolivia’s lowlands, you may want to take a preventative medicine, such as mefloquine, Malarone or doxycycline. Mosquitoes carrying malaria are evening and nighttime biters. Many areas of the Amazon are relatively mosquito-free because blackwater rivers are inhospitable breeding grounds, however, it is essential that you take insect protection measures. Rabies In Bolivia, most rabies cases stem from dog bites. Stray dogs are usually harmless, however, guard dog attacks are more common. On long hikes in rural areas, always carry a walking stick to defend yourself in the event
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intro & info
muscle cramps, rapid pulse and vomiting. If you experience heatstroke, go to a cool, shaded area until your body temperature normalizes and drink lots of water. If the symptoms continue, consult a doctor.
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Safety in Bolivia
of a dog attack. In case you are bitten by a dog, rabies vaccinations are readily available in La Paz and other major cities. A rabies vaccine is recommended for long-term travelers and all traverers planning on spending a significant amount of time outdoors, who are at risk for animal bites or going to be in direct contact with bats.
see it. Most thieves work in teams; one will distract you while the other slashes your bag or picks your pocket. If you are approached by a suspicious person asking for money or the time, just walk away quickly. Don’t let yourself get cornered.
Typhoid A typhoid vaccine is recommended for all travelers to Bolivia, except short-term visitors who plan on dining in major hotels and restaurants. Typhoid is common in Bolivia, especially if you go far from usual tourist areas. The disease is transmitted through food or drink that has been contaminated by feces. The best way to avoid typhoid is to eat only in very clean restaurants or prepare your food yourself after cleaning it thoroughly. An oral capsule or injection should be taken if you are planning to travel in Bolivia or South America for an extended period of time (six months or more).
Bolivians and your Belongings Bolivians, as a whole, are extremely friendly: they break change for large notes, readily give travel advice, and are usually willing to assist with directions (even if they aren’t exactly sure of where they are sending you). Thus, some trust is obviously merited, but be smart, especially when it comes to your belongings. Don’t ask anyone to watch your luggage and don’t share rides with strangers. Take marked taxis (often called radio taxis), keep an eye on your bags when they are under and above the bus, trek with a friend (or notify your hotel of your departure and arrival time, so someone is expecting you) and lock your up your belongings when staying in hostel dorms.
Yellow Fever Yellow Fever is a mosquito-born disease endemic to Bolivia and many other parts of South America. The vaccine is good for ten years and is required for all travelers entering Boivia. Yellow fever is predominantly found in the areas east of the Andes. Updated: Feb 17, 2010.
responsible behavior Drugs and alcohol are a traveler’s worst enemy. Late-night partying, loud or lewd behavior and any sort of shady dealings will get you into far more trouble than a stolen wallet. Even if it isn’t your scene, stay clear of other travelers who bring trouble with them.
Safety in Bolivia
safety and travel budgets In most cities in Bolivia, the dodgy neighborhoods are easy to identify; they are around bus stations and major outdoor markets. Lodging is usually slightly cheaper in these areas, but for a dollar or two more a night, you can get a substantial upgrade worth the peace of mind. Researching the perfect spot beforehand is the best way to avoid being stuck in a neighborhood that makes you uncomfortable.
As all travel is inherently dangerous, it’s important to recognize that you are never free from concern. As is true in most Latin American countries, in Bolivia, travelers tend to stand out. That being said, safety in Bolivia is what you make it. Yes, there is crime, poverty, illness, etc., but it can be avoided to a large extent by exercising common sense and awareness. Money Matters Distribute important documents into at least two stashes. Don’t carry more than a small amount of money for daily purchases. Keep your cash, and perhaps a credit card, in a wallet or coin purse in your front pocket. Keep your passport, at least one credit card and most of your cash well protected under your clothes–either in a money belt or sewn-in pocket. Street Smarts In crowds, always hold your bag close to your body and in front of you where you can
Violence in Bolivia Petty and violent crime against foreigners is on the rise in La Paz and Santa Cruz, where there are also frequent protests, which often turn violent. If you encounter a roadblock, don’t try to subvert it; protestors may react violently, and have been known to plant bombs. Violent unrest is also common in Chapare, the area between Cochabamba, Santa Cruz and the Yungas region northeast of La Paz. Consult travel reports and check with your consulate before traveling to these areas.
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Hospitals
Fake Cops Beware of bogus police officers and police stations, which are set up to scam travelers. All officers should wear green uniforms with a name badge clearly identifying them. If you have any doubts, don’t follow a police officer if asked. Request to see their ID, and demand to speak to your consulate, if necessary. Trustworthy Tours Travel only with authorized tour agencies and guides. Make sure they are trusted and reputable before embarking on any excursions. Updated: Feb 17, 2010.
Hospitals
Bolivia is one of South America’s poorest and least-developed countries, so finding good medical treatment can be a challenge. It’s easier to find English speaking doctors in larger cities, such as La Paz and Santa Cruz, and the quality of health care in those cities is usually better than in rural areas. In general, avoid state-run hospitals, which may not be equipped to handle serious medical conditions. These hospitals often only have the minimum necessary medical equipment and scarce access to medications and vaccinations. Waiting times can be very long as well. Private clinics, on the other hand, tend to have more state-of-the-art technology and access to more highly trained doctors. Ambulance services, even in larger cities, can be difficult to come by. If you find yourself in need of a hospital in Bolvia, few notable ones which may provide more reliable care include: CLINICA ANGEL FOIANINI, Santa Cruz. Av. Irala, 468, Tel: 591-3-336-2211 With top-notch doctors and minimal waiting times, this is Santa Cruz’s best and most expensive clinic. The clinic istself is small, but very well managed. HOSPITAL URBARI, Santa Cruz. Ca. Igmiri, 555, Tel: 591-3-353-4000 - This clean and modern facility has friendly, knowledgeable and courteous staff. The doctors are excellent, as well. The medical instruments and technology are very adequate and waiting
times are minimal, even in emergencies. Probably the best hospital in Santa Cruz. Clinica Cemes, La Paz. Av. 6 De Agosto, 2881, Tel. 0102-2430-360 - Small but more then adequate at treating less complicated injuries. It is very close to the U.S. embassy and considered one of the better clinics in La Paz. Clinica del Sur, La Paz, Av. Hernando Siles and the corner of Ca. 7 in the Obrajes neighborhood, Tel. 0102-2784-001 - If you are experiencing an emergency or life-threatening condition, head straight to this well equipped hospital with 24-hour emergency services. Updated: Feb 11, 2010.
Doctors
Doctors in Bolivia, like hospitals, are betterequipped and more highly-qualified the closer you are to a major urban center. Cities like La Paz and Santa Cruz have a fair number of capable doctors, many of whom are from, or were trained in, the U.S. and Europe. This means you can reasonably expect to find equipment and treatment such as you would have at home. Santa Cruz actually has a higher concentration of foreign trained doctors then La Paz and other Bolivian cities. Most doctors have small private offices for consultations and non-emergency situations, and work out of a variety of hospitals for specific medical procedures. The patient can usually choose which hospital they would like to be treated at, but some insurance companies are choosier about which hospitals doctors can see patients. If you have a hospital preference, make sure the doctors can accommodate you there. Many doctors and hospitals expect immediate cash payments for treatment. This may be reimbursed by your travel health insurance provider. Overseas insurance providers are not universally accepted and you should check with your insurance before you leave home as to what you will be covered for and where. Some doctors which you can refer to include: · Dr. Firestone, Chiropractor—Santa Cruz, Av. Alemania, 3080, esq. Litoral, Tel: 591-3343-5454 - is American and well-known in the American community. He and his wife provide a range of services. · Dr. del Solar, Pediatrician—Urbarí, Ca. Pocherena Sur, 247, Tel: 591-3-353-7767) - studied in the U.S. and speaks English fluently.
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ATM Theft Express kidnappings, where tourists are held for ransom, usually in a taxi, and are forced to use their bank cards to withdraw cash, most often occur in La Paz, and between Copacabana and Desguadero.
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Pharmacies
· Dr. Ruth Turner, Gynecologist, Surgeon—Santa Cruz, Ca. Pari, 90, Tel: 5913-332-8809 - is American but was born and raised in Bolivia. She is one of the doctors authorized to do medical exams needed by the consulate. · Dr. Ramiro De la Rocha, Internal Medicine—La Paz - Ca. 15, Calacoto, Edificio Ketal, Tel: 591-22-279-0080 - Trained in the U.S. Speaks English. · Dr .Eduardo Montero, Internal Medicine— La Paz, CEMDI, Av. 6 de Agosto, 2530, Tel: 591-22-243-2373 - U.S.-trained, English speaking doctor. · Dr. Jaime Terán, OBGYN—La Paz, Edificio Rhesus, Ca. G, 1367, Ca. Rene Moreno and Claudio Aliaga, Tel: 591-22-279-6589 - Another U.S.-trained, English speaking doctor. Updated: Feb 12, 2010.
topics. Many newspapers take anti-government positions in their writing, but they never address the most sensitive subjects, such as corruption or drug trafficking.
Pharmacies
Major Bolivian Newspapers: La Prensa El Diario La Razon El Mundo Los Tiempos El Deber Correo del Sur La Patria La Palabra Bolivian Times
While traveling throughout Bolivia, pharmacies can be incredibly useful. If you’re feeling ill, but not serious enough to merit a doctor’s visit, the pharmacy staff can often suggest a remedy. It’s helpful to bring along a Spanish phrase book, if you don’t speak the language, in order to explain your symptoms, and to understand their suggestions. Another plus is that pharmacies usually dot even the smallest of towns, and it’s here you can find toiletry essentials, in addition to medical quick fixes. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Media
The radio is the primary source of news in Bolivia. There are nearly 500 radio stations, most of them regional. There are about 200 privately-owned TV stations in Bolivia, but there is limited access to TV in rural areas. Few people can afford TVs, and in many areas of the country TV reception is unreliable. Bolivia has eight national newspapers: four of them are based in La Paz, three are in Santa Cruz and one is in Cochabamba. Newspaper readership is limited by Bolivia’s low national literacy rate. Bolivia’s constitution protects both freedom of speech and freedom of the press. Bolivian radio stations are not censored by the government. Most media outlets are privately-owned and operated. In 2007, Reporters Without Borders, a worldwide organization that works to promote freedom of the press, stated that Bolivia has greater freedom of the press than many of its South American neighbors, but Bolivian reporters rarely address controversial
There are some restrictions on Bolivian media, such as slander and defamation laws, especially in regard to public officials. The Penal Code especially protects the president, vice president and ministers, and jail time is required of anyone who violates the Code. Violators are taken before the independent La Paz Press Tribunal. Major Bolivian News Radio Stations: Radio Fides Radio Panamericana Radio Illimani Radio Patria Nueva
Major Bolivian TV News Stations: Bolivision (Channel 4) Unitel (Channel 9) ATB Red Nacional (Channel 9) Red Uno (Channel 11) Television Boliviana (Channel 7) TV Universitaria (Channel 13) Red P.A.T. Updated: Dec 10, 2009.
Post Offices in Bolivia are signposted as Correo, and you can find them in almost every small town or city. Smaller post offices will only deal with letters or small parcels. In villages that have no post office, mail can normally be sent on the buses. You can also send large parcels on the flota buses between major cities in Bolivia—the person you are sending it to needs to pick the package up at the bus company’s office. All parcels must be clearly marked with the recipient’s name, phone number and the destination. Letters and small packages Most larger post offices will have one area for posting letters and packages up to two kilograms (4.4 lbs), and another area for parcels over two kilograms.
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Telephones
Larger Packages For international parcels over two kilograms, you will need to have the content checked by customs, so leave it unwrapped. Go to the area signposted encomiendas to send your parcel. These packages are normally wrapped in brown paper, which you will have to buy at the post office. Bring your passport and a couple of photocopies. A parcel up to three kilograms (6.6 lbs) will cost $50-60 to the U.S./Europe.
Local and Nacional calls The Bolivian phone system works well, but the code system is very complicated. Don’t be afraid to ask for help in a phone shop–the attendants are used to it! Bolivian landline number (líneas fijas) have seven digits and cell numbers have eight digits. The region codes for the nine departments are: La Paz, Oruro and Potosí— 2 Santa Cruz, Beni, Pando— 3 Cochabamba, Chuquisaca, Tarija— 4 Each phone company also has its own two digit carrier code–for example the code for Cotas is 22, while the code for Entel is 10.
Courier For anything particularly urgent or important, send it by DHL or FedEx, which have offices in major cities across the country.
From a Phone Shop or Box: To a landline in same city: Seven-digit number To a landline in a different region: Normally 0 + region code + seven digits To cell phone in same city: Eight-digit number To cell phone in different region: 0 + eightdigit number
Receiving mail All the major post offices have a poste restante service where you can receive mail. The mail should be sent to: your name (with surname in capitals), Poste Restante, Correo Central, city name, Bolivia. Bring your passport to collect it. Items will only be kept here for two or three months
From a Private Landline: To a landline in same city: Seven-digit number To a landline in a different region: Normally 0 + two-digit carrier code + region code + seven digits To cell phone in same city: Eight-digit number To cell phone in different region: 0 + carrier code + eight-digit number
You can also get letters and small packages sent to your hotel or residence, but if someone is not there when it’s delivered it will get taken to the post office, from where it can be difficult to pick up. Updated: Dec 18, 2009.
From a Cell Phone To a landline in same city: Region code + seven-digit number To a landline in a different region: Normally 0 + two-digit carrier code + region code + seven digits To cell phone in same city: Eight-digit number To cell phone in different region: Eightdigit number
Telephones
The easiest way to make a phone call is to go to a phone shop. Even the smallest villages will normally have an Entel office from where you can make local, regional or international calls. Other companies include Cotel, Tigo, Ental and Viva. Local calls usually cost less than $0.14 for a couple of minutes. You normally make the call first and pay afterwards. You can also find public phones in many street-side stalls. To use a phone box in the street, you’ll need to buy a phone card, but the phone shops are easier as there is always and attendant there who can help you. Entel phone cards come in dominations of between $1.40 and $7.
Cell phones You can pick up a pre-paid SIM card for any of the major carriers—Viva, Tigo and Entel —for next to nothing. Use it with your own handset, or you can pick up one in Bolivia starting at around $30. To top up your credit, buy a card from a phone shop. International Calls To dial internationally from any phone: 00 + carrier code + country code + number In the larger towns in Bolivia, there are budget international call centers offering
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For mailing international letters and small packages, go to the main desk, pay the cost of the postage and your package will be on its way. There shouldn’t be any custom formalities, but come with packages unsealed just in case. A parcel up to two kilograms costs $30-40 to the U.S./Europe and should take a couple of weeks by airmail.
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GSM Technology
llamadas for as little as $0.20 a minute. From these shops, you’ll not normally need to enter the carrier code, as detailed above. International calls from normal call shops or phone boxes are quite expensive To dial to Bolivia from abroad, dial the Bolivia country code +591, plus the relevant one digit region code, plus the number (for cell phones you just need the country code and cell number). Updated: Dec 18, 2009.
GSM Technology
GSM stands for Global System for Mobile communication, and is the most widely used mobile communication system in the world. GSM phones work by sending information digitally through a frequency range or bandwidth. It is estimated that GSM has between one to three billion users worldwide and is available in 190 countries. The wide-spread use of GSM phones and technology throughout the world has made traveling with GSM phones much easier. GSM network operators have roaming agreements with foreign operators and so users can often continue to use their mobile phones when they travel to other countries. The different range of GSM frequencies; however, means that certain phones might not work in certain countries. GSM phones that are only a single band will only be compatible in countries which use the same major bandwidth. For instance, GSM-900 and GSM-1800 are used in many parts of the world including Europe, Africa and Oceania. GSM-850 and GSM-1900 are used in the U.S., Canada and many other countries in the Americas. You can avoid compatibility problems by getting a tri-band or quad-band phone, which supports more than one frequency and, in the case of quad-band, all of them. Bolivia uses GSM 1900 and GSM 850. The networks that carry these frequencies are Entel, Neuvatel PCS and Telefonica Cellular de Bolivia. If you are coming from the U.S., Canada and many other parts of the Americas, your phone should work in Bolivia. It is worthwhile to check your phone’s compatibility with your cell phone provider before you leave the country. Updated: Dec 10, 2009.
Internet Access, WiFi and Internet Cafés Internet in Bolivia is cheap, but that’s about all you can say for it. It’s often inconsistent,
frequently unavailable, and really, really slow— even by South American standards. Internet CafÉs in Bolivia Although most internet cafés in Bolivia claim to use broadband Internet, it can be difficult to use Skype or upload photos due to the slow connection speeds. From La Paz to the south, prices are relatively low—expect to pay $0.50 per hour. In Copacabana, the Yungas and (if you can find it) the Amazon, you’ll be charged hourly rates starting at $1.50. WiFi in Bolivia If you’ve brought your own laptop or netbook, there are many hotels and Internet cafés with WiFi. Keep in mind that WiFi is much more widely available in larger cities like La Paz and Santa Cruz. More expensive, high-end places are also more likely to offer WiFi. If you get stuck, follow the golden arches, as the service is also available at McDonalds. Other Ways to Connect to the Internet in Bolivia If you need to access files on your office computer while abroad, look into a service called GoToMyPC (www.gotomypc. com). It will allow you to get into all your files and programs on your desktop computer or laptop left behind at the office or at home. This allows you the comfort of working from abroad, without worrying about losing a laptop or having to make too many phone calls to the office. Updated: Nov 27, 2009.
Money and Costs
Travelers to Bolivia will be pleasantly surprised at the low cost of living here. Whether it’s $2 for a basic lodging or $40 for the swankiest hotel and spa you’ve come across in South America, your money will stretch pretty far in Bolivia, so take advantage of it. This rings true with food, souvenirs, tours, etc. In Bolivia, if you are looking to save, you can, and if you are looking to splurge, it’s easy to go all out. Bolivia’s currency is called the boliviano, though locals often refer to the cost of things in pesitos; they mean the same. While rates do change against the U.S. dollar and the euro, the boliviano is relatively stable (at the time of writing it was approximately 7 Bs. to $1). There are coins and paper notes, in
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Banks
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them for bolivianos is easy at one of the many casas de cambio (money changers) in and around cities and towns. Be aware of counterfeit notes and rip-offs; however, as these businesses are less regulated than banks and ATMs.
U.S. dollars are commonly accepted across Bolivia, so it’s always a good idea to keep a stash in addition to your bolivianos. Try at restaurants and hostels, but if you are unlucky with your U.S. cash here, there are casas de cambio (exchange shops) in all the major cities and many of the minor towns as well.
Credit Cards
Always keep a good-sized cash stash hidden somewhere in both bolivianos and dollars, as ATMs are hard to come by, so if you run out you might be stuck. Check ahead to see if there will be ATMs where you will be passing though, but be prepared for anything (credit cards are not widely accepted and wiring money is not a simple option here). Updated: Jul 10, 2009.
Banks
Banks and ATMs are plentiful in large Bolivian cities and towns like La Paz and Santa Cruz, and you shouldn’t have a problem finding banks in smaller towns as well. Some banks to look for while traveling through Bolivia include Banco Nacional de Bolivia, Banco Mercantil, Banco de Santa Cruz and Prodem. These banks and ATMs usually dispense bolivianos in 50 and 100 notes and sometimes even U.S. Dollars. Most Visa, Plus, Cirrus and MasterCard cards are accepted, though many Europeans have reported trouble using their cards. American Express cards aren’t generally accepted. Make sure to notify your bank or credit card company before leaving the country so they allow access to your funds from overseas. Credit and debit cards aren’t accepted for many actual transactions in typical restaurants and stores, and in smaller towns they’re pretty much useless. After taking money from an ATM, or when you cash in traveler’s checks, it is worthwhile to go into a bank and break the larger bills into smaller ones. If you have U.S. dollars, exchanging
Most banks in Bolivia have normal business hours, usually opening at 8:30 a.m. and closing at 4 p.m. Most offices close between noon and 2 p.m. for lunch, and few are open on the weekends. Updated: Dec 10, 2009. Aside from the airports and posh hotels, there aren’t many places in Bolivia that accept credit cards. Cash is always the better bet, though you can try your luck with plastic in some of the larger cities. Also, it’s worthing bringing a card along in case of emergency, as you can opt for a cash advance from the banks and credit unions if you are really in a bind. Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted, but be sure to check your specific bank’s policy on international fees, and to notify the bank that your card will be used in Bolivia. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Traveler’s Checks
While traveling in Bolivia, traveler’s checks can be a lifesaver. It’s a good idea to come with traveler’s checks, as banks, credit cards, ATMs (basically all things cash) are often hard to come by. Rather than wiring money from the Produbanco, a traveler’s check cashed at your hotel can get you out of a tight spot without all the attached fees. This is not to say that traveler’s checks are accepted everywhere, but you are likely to find that they are good backup plan. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Wiring Money
Wiring money in Bolivia is certainly possible, but it’s likely to be a hassle. First, Internet and phone connections can be shoddy, so there’s no guarantee that the request can even be processed. In some of the more remote areas, you can wait days for the line to resume functioning. If you are set on wiring money, make sure you’re in La Paz, Sucre, or another substantial city. Finally, as in any country, wiring money is costly. There is usually a charge for the sender and the receiver, so be prepared to pay. That being said, when you’re stuck, you’re stuck, and wiring is of course a viable option. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
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intro & info
denominations of .05, .10, .20, .50, 1 and 2, and 2, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, respectively. The smallest of the coins are hardly ever used, and the largest of the bills are hardly ever accepted. Therefore, it is very difficult to make change in Bolivia, either with U.S. dollars or bolivianos. To avoid hassle, carry small denominations whenever possible. ATMs most often shuffle out the high notes, so break them when you can, at supermarkets, hotels, tour companies and the like.
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Etiquette
intro & info
Etiquette
Bolivians are conservative and have some strict rules of etiquette, which may cause you to shy away from interacting with the locals at first. But making the effort of getting to know some local Bolivians will make your trip to Bolivia much more rewarding than just sticking with other foreigners in touristy spots. Try to remember these tips, and if anything goes wrong, just smile and apologize for your error; Bolivians will usually be quite understanding. A warm handshake is the most common form of greeting in Bolivia. Make direct eye contact, and use the person’s title if you know it. If someone invites you to share food or go dancing, accept graciously, even if it’s the last thing you want. Rejected invitations are offensive. Be generous, and offer to share anything you have with you, such as gum or another snack. Bolivians will easily accept someone who treats them generously. While you are out and about in Bolivia, especially in the highlands and rural areas, don’t gawk at the locals. Even if you have never been to South America and are surprised by something you see, it would be extremely disrespectful to show those emotions. If you would like to take someone’s picture, ask before you do so. If you are invited to a Bolivian’s home for dinner, etiquette becomes slightly complicated. Many customary etiquette rules actually stem from superstitious beliefs, so contradicting a custom is not just impolite, it actually insults someone’s beliefs. Always arrive 15-30 minutes later than the stated time. Never arrive in someone’s home empty-handed; bring flowers or wine, or another type of simple gift. During the meal, don’t eat with your hands. Bolivians use a knife and fork for nearly everything, including fruit. When you are not eating, keep your hands visible on the table. It is a serious form of disrespect to have your hands hidden. If someone asks you to pass them something at the table, don’t hand it to them directly; instead, set it on the table next to them. Never say you don’t like anything, and don’t refuse food offered to you. Although still impolite, it is better to simply leave the food on your plate. Be sure to compliment your host on the food, but wait until the meal is over if you are full, because compliments can be construed as a request for more.
In general, just try to be as polite and gracious as possible while you are visiting Bolivia. Bolivian customs can be a bit complicated, so follow basic rules of respect and ask someone if you are unsure what to do. Updated: Dec 07, 2009.
Dress
When packing clothes for Bolivia, you need to consider both the climate and the culture. Bolivia’s climate can be quite varied, so you should pack a lot of layers. While the heat may tempt you to don a T-shirt, you will be better off in long sleeves in order to protect yourself from the strong sun. A hat is a valuable accessory for sun protection as well. Try to bring clothes that are easy to wash and dry (jeans are not the best option), because laundry facilities may not be the best or even available, and in rural areas your clothes will most likely be airdrying. Dressing relatively conservatively and similar to the Bolivians is important, especially in the highlands. While Bolivians are accustomed to tourists walking around in T-shirts and shorts, try to bring a more Bolivian-style wardrobe. In the Santa Cruz lowland area you can feel comfortable showing more skin, but T-shirts and shorts anywhere often label you a tourist and make you a target of crime. You also risk offending the more traditional Bolivians. While in the highlands, women should try to wear longer skirts and shawls. The traditional skirt that many Bolivian women wear is called the pollera, which was originally a Spanish skirt that the indigenous women were forced to wear, but is now a symbol of cultural pride. Also popular among the women are bowler hats, adopted from the British. Updated: Dec 07, 2009.
Doing Business and Dealing with Officialdom Doing business in Bolivia may be more difficult than you are accustomed to back home. Things like starting a business, getting construction permits, paying taxes, registering property and enforcing contracts can take much longer in Bolivia than in other countries and involve more procedures. It is also, on average, more difficult to hire employees, gain credit and protect investors. Bolivia’s bureacracy has many layers, and navigating it without the help of a local guide
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Responsible Tourism can be quite difficult. For all but the simplest immigration procedures, it is probably best to hire a lawyer. Updated: Dec 14, 2009.
1. Buy local—If you’re looking for souvenirs, groceries for dinner, or alpaca sweaters to keep you warm, save your bolivianos for the local vendors. Make conscious decisions to support Bolivian-owned tour agencies, accommodations and restaurants, and take part in strengthening this rather weak economy. 2. Don’t litter—You will undoubtedly see scads of locals tossing their trash out bus and taxi windows into ditches, gutters, roadsides and ruins. Don’t follow suit. You wouldn’t litter back home, so don’t do it here. Instead, set an example by saving your trash for the bin. 3. Respect the culture—Bolivia is culturally conservative, a country with an extremely large traditional indigenous population. So, whether it is their way of living, dressing, eating, acting, or your way of doing the same, remember that you are in their country, and ought to abide by their customs. Not only is it the right thing to do, it will enhance your trip immensely. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Photography
Digital or slide film? That is the question. Let’s face it, these days digital is definitely the more convenient option, and for most of us, it’s all we need. With digital cameras, it’s okay to get snap-happy since most memory cards on the market today can hold hundreds of photos, and you can transfer them onto a USB flashdrive or burn them onto a disc in most major Bolivian cities. However, keep in mind that lithium batteries are not easy to come by in Bolivia, so you might want to pack a few from home. The same goes for power chargers. No one wants to reach a mountain summit only to find that their camera is dead; pack everything that you will need to keep your camera happy. Does anyone still use slide film these days? Remarkably, they do and the extra work they put in really pays off. If you’re up for
the challenge, slide film can produce gorgeous, detailed photography. There are, of course, a few things to keep in mind. First, although it is available, slide film in Bolivia is not always easy to come by and can be expensive. Developing film in Bolivia may also result in lesser quality photos. Your best bet is to pack film from home and develop it when you get back. But do remember that certain airport security screeners can damage film, so carry unexposed film in your hand luggage. If you’ve gone digital, chances are your camera has an automatic setting that will do all the work for you. Slide film users, on the other hand, should take the bright sunlight of the Bolivian highlands into account and use a faster film. During the day ASA 100 or 200 should suffice. The best times to take photos are in the early morning and the late afternoon when the sunlight is less intense. In contrast (pun intended), light can be hard to come by in the forest so you’ll need a slower film if you head to the jungle. Given the humidity of the forest, it’s also wise to keep all equipment in a protective bag. You can take as many pictures of the mountains or the salt flats as you want, they don’t mind. People, however, can be a different story. Most people in Bolivia do not have a problem getting their picture taken, but understand that some may feel superstitious about it. If someone prefers not to be a part of your photo collection, please respect their wishes. Only take photos of people you know or with whom you have built some sort of relationship. Lastly, for some Bolivians, posing for photos is an extra source of income. Many children will dress up in traditional garb to attract the eyes of tourists, but before you snap, know that you will have to pay money for the picture—a fact that your models may not tell you until after you have taken the photo. If someone is eager to have their picture taken, the image will likely cost you a few cents. Updated: Jul 13, 2009.
Travel Tips
Drink bottled or boiled water while traveling through Bolivia. If buying bottled water from a street vendor, make sure the seal hasn’t been broken. Some vendors will simply refill old plastic bottles and pass them off as unused. Also, avoid ice in your drinks unless you know they come from purified water; most are just from the tap.
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intro & info
Responsible Tourism. While it’s possible to practice aspects of responsible tourism anywhere you travel, Bolivia is a place you can really make an impact. Here are a few tips to ensure that your trip does the most good and least harm possible:
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Women Travelers
Carry a copy of your passport with you for identification at all times. Most likely you won’t be asked for this information, but authorities do have the right to ask you for it. Leave your passport at the hotel in a safe. Be careful when taking taxis and only take taxis that have proper identification and numbers. There is the risk of “express kidnappings” in Bolivia. During an “express kidnapping” a taxi driver may blindfold and in some way restrain you and take you to different ATMs where they will force you to withdraw money. Updated: Feb 11, 2010.
Women Travelers
Although many women travel alone through Bolivia without any problems, the solo female traveler should always make sure to stay alert and act with caution. Traveling alone to remote areas is never a good idea. You can greatly increase your level of safety by sticking to areas frequented by tourists, where you may be able to meet some new traveling buddies. That said, no matter where you may be you should never wander the streets at night. Be sure to take radio taxis—company contracted cars that are clearly marked as taxis. Highly crowded areas such as bus stations or local street celebrations also make you more susceptible to petty crime, so watch for pickpockets and keep your bags with you and close to your body at all times. It’s not a bad idea to hide a bit of money in a sock or undergarment so that you won’t be stuck penniless in the event of a theft. Ultimately, a little common sense will go a long way. As a foreign woman, you’re already going to attract the attention of local males, so don’t elevate the risk factor by flirting and wearing revealing clothing or gaudy jewelry. Wearing a wedding ring and speaking of a husband may help to deter unwanted male attention. If a stranger whistles or makes a provocative comment, which will inevitably occur, try not to react. It’s best to avoid eye contact and continue on your way. If you are lost or feel uncomfortable, try not to let it show. A nervous, confused woman makes for a much easier target than a secure and confident one. Finally, when in need of directions, the safest bet is to ask a local woman. Updated: Jun 18, 2009.
Gay Travelers
Bolivia is one of the least flexible and tolerant South American countries in matters relating
to gender and sexuality. La Paz offers a handful of clandestinely operated gay bars, but travelers go at their own risk, since being identified as a marica (a derogatory term) can result in harassment, violence, or even death. Furthermore, the low-paid police are generally indifferent, or even hostile, to the well-being of gay, lesbian and transgendered citizens. Most gay Bolivians remain in “the closet,” or even convince themselves that they are straight while leading a double life. Consequently, this has led to a higher-than-average incidence of AIDS in Bolivia—except, paradoxically, among prostitutes, who are required to be tested for HIV every three months. Despite this, over the last 20 years, factors ranging from the spread of AIDS (which has forced the country to at least broach the subject of homosexuality) to the Internet have resulted in a small but growing movement for gay civil liberties. The year 1994 saw the first gay pride event ever in the country, and the following year gave rise to MGLP, a gay rights group, and then later, Mujeres Creando, for lesbians. However, their impact in changing Bolivia’s laws and attitudes has been minimal. Indeed, despite the election of socialist Evo Morales, and his commitment to acknowledge sexual minorities in civil rights law, gay marriage was specifically outlawed in the country’s new constitution. As recently as 2007, a float in an event entitled Respect for Sexual Diversity was hit by dynamite. In the midst of these challenges, gay and lesbian activists continue to lobby for greater visibility, and an association of politically active drag performers known as the Galan Family has garnered international recognition for its efforts. For the traveler wanting to network with the gay community in Bolivia, you can contact MGLP, which does not have an E-mail or website, but does offer a mailing address (Casilla Postal 10471, La Paz, Bolivia) and a phone number (Tel:591-22-262-1019). There is also a website for Bolivia’s lesbian community, http://lesbianas_estadea.tripod.com/. Updated: Nov 18, 2008.
Seniors
Senior travelers to Bolivia will usually be surprised with the level of respect and consideration they will be greeted with. Older citizens are greatly respected in Bolivia; most live with their children. Nursing homes and care facilities are rare and considered a shameful and embarrassing gringo practice.
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Disabled Travelers in Bolivia
Since Bolivia is a country whose cities are mainly located at very high altitudes, some older travelers might find navigating the city streets to be more challenging than their younger counterparts find it. If you have heart or respiratory conditions, consult your doctor before traveling. Updated: Feb 11, 2010.
Disabled Travelers in Bolivia
Bolivia, like many developing nations, lacks a real infrastructure for disabled tourists. Ramps into buildings are inconsistent in cities and nearly nonexistent in rural areas. Handicap-accessible bathrooms may be found in high-end hotels and restaurants, but have not yet made their way into typical Bolivian establishments. Sidewalks can also pose problems for disabled tourists, as they are often uneven and deteriorating. Sidewalks in central business areas or tourist districts will be more smooth and even. Sidewalks in smaller towns are typically inconsistently managed. The many street vendors and markets which crowd city streets also make getting around more difficult. If you are planning to wander through the town on foot, stick to better-developed areas. Public transportation is generally not equipped to service disabled travelers via ramps or handicapped seats, so you may want to make plans for transportation through your hotel or hostel. Sometimes these facilities can arrange for a more accommodating vehicle. Taxis might be another option, though expect some issues loading and unloading equipment. Updated: Dec 14, 2009.
Traveling with Children
As in all Latin American cultures, family is the core of Bolivian society, and children are smiled upon. Bolivia is generally a safe country, so as long as you follow basic safety practices and keep your children with you, you shouldn’t have safety concerns. Consider your children’s health before you take them to Bolivia, though, because altitude sickness can hit many. If your children are particularly prone to illness or simply don’t deal well with being sick, you might want to reconsider taking them to Bolivia’s highlands.
Explain all the basic social etiquette to your children, particularly about meals, so that they won’t offend anyone. Bolivians will find it charming if you teach your kids how to say a few polite phrases in Spanish. There are often discounts offered for young children, so always ask if there is a children’s discount, whether you are riding public transportation, checking into a hotel, etc. Updated: Dec 07, 2009.
Tips for Budget Travelers
Budget travelers prepare yourselves—Bolivia is the place to be: decent hostels for under $3 per night, a train throughout the entire length of the country costs just $10, and less than $0.50 for a crunchy chocolate treat called a BonBon! Not only will you be living it up cheap and happy, you may have some extra cash to spend on a fútbol match or extra souvenir scarf. In order to stay within your means, consider the places where you want to save and those which are worth the splurge. Accommodations Almost anywhere you travel, with the exception of the remotest of the remote, you will likely have a range (even if limited) of accommodation choices. The lowest prices will probably get you a single bed with sheets and (if you’re in the cold Altiplano) wool blanket. Don’t count on a window, breakfast, or a private (or even clean) bathroom. For a few extra bolivianos, you can usually get a room with breakfast included, which should end up cheaper than eating out in the morning. Another option is to camp—if you’re prepared and willing. Many locations in Bolivia drop below freezing at night, with harsh winds and even rain, so make sure you have the proper equipment, and attitude, if you want to save money this way. Food Street and market food can get a bad rep with traveler’s stomachs, but it’s undoubtedly the cheapest way to eat. It’s hard to go wrong with a breakfast in the local market, as it’s usually just api (a warm, purple corn flour drink) and an airy pastry. Lunch and dinner start to get tricky, but a good rule (if you can handle it), is to stick with vegetarian options such as grilled corn, rice, potatoes or yucca. Don’t eat anything uncooked and steer clear of fruit and veggies washed in unpurified water. Basically, it’s up to you to decide whether your stomach or pocket will suffer on this one.
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intro & info
Travelers over 65, the so-called tercer edad (third age), are eligible for discounts throughout the country on airplanes, buses, trains and tourist attractions such as national parks and museums. Carry your ID and be sure to ask.
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Tips for Mid-Range Travelers
Activities While Bolivia boasts the “World’s Most Dangerous Road,” boat rides on Titicaca and the epic Salar de Uyuni, they all cost a fair bit. If you are on a truly tight budget, you realistically won’t get to do them all, but you may be able to pick and choose what fits with your funds. It can help to go in the off-peak season (though note that their winter is really wet), travel in groups for good rates and use public buses versus tour buses when possible. An alternative is the free fun walking, hiking, climbing, biking and camping can bring, if you come equipped pre-trip. Bolivia’s scenery is astounding and it’s unlikely you will be disappointed with self-guided tours. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
Tips for Mid-Range Travelers
Mid-range travelers have it made in Bolivia, as they can stick to their budget while living a pretty luxe lifestyle. “Four-star” hotels are under $40 a night and first-class buses may mean fully reclining seats and full-service meals at a very reasonable price to you.
Suggested Reading
While Bolivia is not known for its literary achievements, there is still a fairly large collection of social and political commentaries and memoirs that will help travelers understand some of the deeper societal issues in Bolivia today. Powers, William D., Whispering in the Giant’s Ear: A Frontline Chronicle from Bolivia’s War on Globalization. 2006, Bloomsbury Press: USA. As an aid worker for an environmental conservation group in Bolivia, Powers writes a first-hand account of the economic and political struggle in this tiny Andean country. With the help of both multinational corporations and the local indigenous tribe, Powers attempts to save a small part of the rainforest, and while doing so writes a heartbreaking Bolivian memoir and social commentary. Santos, Rosario (Editor), The Fat Man from La Paz: Contemporary Fiction from Bolivia. 2003, Seven Stories Press: New York.
Although you are willing to spend a bit more than the budgeters, you should still bargain for the best price for accommodations, tours or souvenirs. Although you can splurge some, try it like the locals and visit the food markets for a breakfast or two and barter at the markets for handmade goods. Updated: Sep 24, 2009.
A collection of short stories from Bolivian authors where the topics range from war stories to childhood memories. The editor, Rosario Santos, did a brilliant job of combining stories of love, fantasy and political tribulations into a classic compilations of Bolivian literature where none previously existed.
Tips for High-End Travelers
Tang, Irwin and Huang, Chi Chang, When Invisible Children Sing. 2006, Salt River Press: Arizona.
High-end travelers will be surprised by how inexpensive the country is, and how even the poshest of options won’t bust their budget. The drawback is that truly luxurious hotels and restaurants are thin on the ground, and some high rollers might be disappointed. The best tip for travelers looking for luxury is to book an all-inclusive tour, like those run by agencies such as GAP and Crillon Tours. This way, you are assured of getting the most comfortable modes of transportation, the best international cuisine, and the swankiest high-end hotels. This is especially true around Lake Titicaca, the Salar de Uyuni and the Amazon. If you aren’t up for roughing it, stick to the beaten path. Cities such as La Paz, Sucre and, especially, Santa Cruz have the most developed infrastructure and more opulent options. Updated: Sep 24, 2009,
As a fourth-year Harvard medical student, Huang spent the year in Bolivia working with La Paz street children who live in squalor and have daily encounters with violence. The book is written through the eyes of the “invisible” street children who spend their days avoiding rape, beatings and hunger. Each account is told simply and with unfailingly honesty. Young, Rusty and McFadden, Thomas, Marching Powder: A True Story of Friendship, Cocaine, and South America’s Strangest Jail. 2004, St. Martin’s Griffin Press: New York City. The story begins in the infamous San Pedro Prison in Bolivia, where a young traveler (Rusty Young) takes an illegal tour of the jail given by inmate Thomas McFadden. A friendship ensues and Rusty bribes the
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guides and spends three months inside this corrupt South American prison where inmates must purchase their own cell and food. The result is a moving look inside the daily life of an incarcerated drug-dealer in one of Bolivia´s most notorious prisons. Updated: Jan 11, 2010.