Burgundy
“The Best White Wine Domaine in Burgundy” Comtes Lafon How good are the Burgundy wines from Comtes Lafon? Wine writer Clive Coates MW, who has written about Burgundy for over thirty years and is the world’s foremost authority on the subject, answers: “Quite simply, this is the best white wine domaine in Burgundy, and it also makes excellent red wines.” While these wines don’t show the gossamer finesse, precise minerality and tense purity of Coche-Dury, Leflaive or Roulot, respectively, they are as complex, dynamic and balanced, but with the profound power, heft and richness that together signify Comtes Lafon. A sterling reputation for quality has made Comtes Lafon a name known around the world. Since he took over in 1984, fourth-generation winemaker Dominique Lafon has worked tirelessly to improve the wines. Nowhere is this more evident than in the vineyards. For some historical context, Dominique’s grandfather Jules held a celebratory harvest feast for his workers and friends in 1923. The following year, Jacques Prieur and team joined. Since 1933, every November on the Monday after the Hospices du Beaune auction weekend, a grand tasting and lunch known as La Paulée de Meursault has been the year’s banner event in Burgundy. A Long, Cold and Slow Approach in the Cellar While Domaine Leflaive was the first renowned Burgundy domaine to adopt biodynamic farming, Comtes Lafon was not far behind, well ahead of others at that level. Dominique replaced chemical treatments with plowing. He converted the domaine first to organic farming (certified in 1998), then to
COMTES LAFON MEURSAULT 1ER CRU ‘PORUSOTS’ 2014
COMTES LAFON MEURSAULT 1ER CRU ‘PORUSOTS’ 2013
$270 | VF12261 | SHOP
$270 | VF11293 | SHOP
biodynamic. The domaine owns about 16 hectares (40 acres) of prime vineyards in the appellations of Volnay, Monthélie, Chassagne-Montrachet, every Premier Cru in Meursault, and Grand Cru Le Montrachet. On average, old vines have been densely planted (10,000 vines/hectare) and the main rootstock used was 3309 and 161-49, lower-yielding clones that require more care but produce high quality fruit. In the spring and summer, all vines are trimmed and tied so that excess vegetation is managed. During harvest, there is sorting in the vines before more triage at the winery. In the very-cool winery, for whites, a slow gentle pressing precedes cold settling for 24 hours, then fermentation in new or used barrels for 3 months. After fermentation, malos start naturally and take about 4 months. Wines are racked in July, on the fine lees. After assemblage in vat, the wines go into older barrels for 18-22 months, depending on the vintage. The wines are racked again for clarity before lab testing and tasting. A small bentonite fining is done before bottling. In recent years, during elevage, rolling the barrels has replaced battonage to avoid introducing oxygen and the use of new oak has been reduced.