Burgundy
An Ultimate Benchmark for White Burgundy Domaine Roulot Only a few Burgundy producers occupy a privileged perch high in the stratosphere in the world of fine wine. A small number of family domaines have been synonymous with the best from the region for so long that the names have become shorthand for ultimate benchmarks. Considered the absolute best in the world, these domaines are quality yardsticks against which all others are measured. There are not many white Burgundy domaines at this rarefied level (Coche-Dury, Leflaive, Comtes Lafon, Ramonet, Raveneau), but Domaine Roulot is part of this select group. Jean-Marc Roulot has headed up winemaking at his family’s domaine since October 1988. His father Guy Roulot had built a growing reputation for quality, evident in all of his wines, from Bourgogne Aligoté to Meursault Village and 1er Cru. He was one of the first growers to vinify and bottle his Village lieu-dits, wines named for a specific vineyard parcel. Sadly, Guy died in 1982 at the age of 53, and two gifted winemakers (Ted Lemon of Littorai in Sonoma from 1982-84 and Franck Grux of Maison Olivier Leflaive from 1984-1988) oversaw production before Jean-Marc arrived. Meticulous wine growing and winemaking techniques have given the wines dramatic focus, purity and precision. Wines of Purity and “Vertical Tension” Fifteen hectares (37.5 acres) of vineyards 20-88 years old have been farmed organically since 2000, certified since 2013. The Meursault parcels are 40-88 years old, including 1er Crus Meursault-Charmes and MeursaultPerrières, the latter vineyard considered by many vignerons to have Grand Cru quality. Chardonnay whole clusters are lightly crushed first, not the normal practice. Jean-Marc explained, “We get
most of the juice out at low pressure,” first pressing at 0.2 bar, then 0.6. This yields 90% of the juice, and results in good pH and purity. “It contributes a lot to the style,” elaborated Jean-Marc. The juice is cold-settled overnight with most of the lees. After decanting there’s another vat, so Jean-Marc mixes the lees to have the same turbidity in each barrel. This work is done above the cellar so that a plot picked on Monday is in barrel by Tuesday morning. If the must becomes warmer than 20°C, it is cooled; if not, it’s left alone. New oak is limited to 5-10% for Bourgogne Blanc, 15% for Village, and 33% for Premier Cru. Battonage is limited because it can add richness but bring heaviness and lessen purity. During a year in barrel, the wines get one light battonage every 2-3 weeks until malos end. The wine goes into stainless steel tank on the lees an extra six months. “We get microoxygenation in wood, then reduction in stainless steel. It gives the wine vertical tension,” said Jean-Marc. There’s a light fining with casein and bentonite and light filtration before bottling.
ROULOT MEURSAULT ‘CLOS DES BOUCHERES’ 1ER CRU 2013
ROULOT MEURSAULT ‘CLOS DES BOUCHERES’ 1ER CRU 2012
$300 | VF11004 | SHOP
$300 | VF10172 | SHOP
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