Vintaj Jewelry Technique book

Page 1

®

Vintaj

®

Technique book

jewelry


About Vintaj Natural Brass Co. Vintaj Natural Brass Co. is a dream fulfilled of three women-sisters Wendy Mullane and Jeanne Holland, along with their close friend, Jess Italia Lincoln. Born with kindred spirits the three were brought together through their passion for jewelry design in a place offering natural beauty, history and inspiration-the small eclectic and art inspiring town of Galena IL. The spark ignited when Wendy and Jeanne were teaching jewelry design to a women’s group in their church in the spring of 2001. Playfully and artfully manipulating a filigree bead, Jeanne opened it and wrapped it around a glass stone. Wendy and Jeanne immediately realized the unlimited potential of what they now term “creative settings” and began to design together full time as Vintaj Design Studios. Not only did this venture give the opportunity for an income and creative outlet, but also it allowed time for the things they considered most important: raising their children and serving in the community. Wanting to share this opportunity with others like themselves, they began to explore the notion of offering their jewelry components to the beading industry. Impressed with Jess’s unique sense of design, creativity, talent and fervor, Wendy and Jeanne invited her to join them. Immediately applying her talents, Jess began implementing a campaign to reach beaders all over the world. (Sharing their unique products and innovative techniques by exhibiting in bead shows and being featured in books, magazines and key publications) Jess completed the circle, and through their combined efforts, Vintaj Natural Brass Co. was born. Three artisans, here to share the good fortune they’ve found through working together, as one, in the spirit of inspiration, friendship and harmony…

About Vintaj Natural Brass components ®

Eco-friendly Our process is eco-friendly. Vintaj natural brass is not antique plated or chemically treated. It is nickel free and lead-free compliant. Hand Embellished Each and every Vintaj Natural Brass Co. embellishment undergoes a meticulous, 7-stage hand embellishing process. Due to the careful, hand process used on each Vintaj piece, every embellishment has its own unique color and luster. It is the subtle differences in color that give our product such depth and dimension. made in the usa We are proud to say that our entire natural brass embellishment product line is made in the USA. Discover our Idea Gallery & blog for even more inspiration at vintaj.com.


Contents Filigree Freeform Filigree Wrapping..........................................................4 Basic Filigree Wrapping................................................................5 Layered Filigree Wrapping............................................................6 Filigree Bead Wrapping................................................................7 Lentil Bead Pendant....................................................................8 Filigree Ring.............................................................................9 Filigree Bale............................................................................10 focals Focal Texturing.........................................................................12 Dragonfly Wrapping...................................................................13 Reliefing & Alcohol Inks.............................................................14 Altered blanks Dapping..................................................................................16 Letter Imprinting & Paint Dabbers................................................17 Texturing & Riveting..................................................................18 Brads & Eyelets.........................................................................19 Rub-ons.................................................................................20 Embossing Powder & Alcohol Inks................................................21 Sizzix Embossing......................................................................23 bezels Magic-Glos Resin Bezel..............................................................26 Polymer Clay Bezel....................................................................27 Crackle Accents & Paint Dabbers..................................................28 findings Basic Linking...........................................................................30 Clustering Beads & Charms.........................................................31 Creative Toggle Clasp................................................................32 Embellished Hook Clasp............................................................33


Filigree

Bend, twist and twirl to design your own “creative settings.” Imagine the possibilities– transform any object into your own work of art: wrap your treasured beads, art glass, stones or any found object. Try bottle caps, guitar picks, coins, or pottery.


Technique

Freeform Filigree Wrapping

Turn in the edges of the filigree to approximately the same size as the stone or focal using bale making pliers.

Materials List

• 59 x 31mm Deco Vines Filigree • 32 x 24mm Amber Cabochon • 15mm Jump Ring Necessary Tools

• Chain Nose Pliers • Bale Making Pliers Set the stone or focal inside the filigree.

Use chain nose pliers to turn the edges in tightly to the stone.

Use chain nose pliers to crimp down the filigree edges. Go through the edges again and re-crimp until they are secure.

Pass a jump ring through an opening in the filigree and close.

Begin with a corner of the filigree and tuck the stone delicately in, then continue to “freely” bend, twist and twirl the filigree to gently encase the stone.


Technique Basic Filigree Wrapping

Materials List

• 51mm Full Gerbera Petal Filigree • 42mm Enamel Necessary Tools

• Chain Nose Pliers • Bale Making Pliers

Helpful Tips

Make sure that your filigree is symmetrical with the stone or focal before you begin crimping down.

Turn in the edges of the filigree to approximately the same size as the stone or focal using bale making pliers.

Set the stone or focal inside the filigree. Use your fingers or chain nose pliers to crimp down the filigree edges.

Use chain nose pliers to go through the edges again and re-crimp until they are symmetrical and secure.


Technique

Layered Filigree Wrapping

Materials List

• 40mm Waterlily • 51mm Full Gerbera Petal Filigree • 20mm Ceramic Cabochon Necessary Tools

• Chain Nose Pliers

Use your fingers to turn the center edges out to accommodate the stone.

Helpful Tips Line up each of the layers.

Use chain nose pliers to turn in the edges of the filigree.

Use chain nose pliers to crimp the edges until they are symmetrical and secure.

Try this technique with a combination of layered filigrees or a 40mm Multitiered Donut with a larger bead or cabochon.


Technique Filigree Bead Wrapping

Materials List

• 20mm Filigree Bead • 25mm Glass Lentil Bead Necessary Tools

• Chain Nose Pliers • Rosary Pliers

Helpful Tips

Pass jump rings through the openings in the filigree to hang your pendant. You may use a bead awl to enlarge the openings to fit larger jump rings.

Place the rosary pliers in the openings of the bead’s filigree. Pull in an outward motion, repeating for each section until the bead is entirely open.

Turn in the edges of the opened filigree bead to approximately the same size as the stone or focal using rosary pliers. Set the stone or focal inside the filigree.

Crimp down the filigree edges to secure the stone using the chain nose pliers. Re-crimp the edges until they are symmetrical and secure.


Technique Lentil Bead Pendant

Materials List

• 2” Head Pin • 12mm Filigree Bead Cap • 7.25mm Jump Rings • 6mm Swarovski Crystal • 4mm Melon Bead • 20mm Glass Lentil Bead Necessary Tools

• Rosary Pliers

Helpful Tips String the beads and bead cap onto a 2” head pin. Press the bead cap into the shape of the lentil bead. Push the beads and bead cap tightly against each other.

Use the rosary pliers to grip the straight end of the head pin. While still holding securely, pull the head pin toward you, bending between a 45° and 90° angle.

Continue by turning the head pin away from you (keeping the angle) until you’ve completed approximately 1 & 1/2 revolutions of a coiled loop.

To avoid loose beads & bead caps, keep constant tension when making your coiled loop. Tighten the coil against the top bead, to approximately 3mm in size.


Technique Filigree Ring

Materials List

• 64 x 21mm Diamond Trellis Filigree • 6mm Blossom Bead Cap • 4.75mm Jump Ring • 2” Head Pin • Swarovski Crystals • Pearls

Center the filigree on the ring mandrel and bend each end upward to create a U- shaped bend.

Necessary Tools

• Chain Nose pliers • Bale Making Pliers • Ring Mandrel

Helpful Tips

Try weaving crystals and pearls on 24 gauge wire through the filigree or riveting a charm to the filigree (prior to bending) for a different look.

Finish the curve of the ring by gently crimping down with the bale making pliers following the curve of the bale.

Create several dangles and string them onto the 4.75mm jump ring; close to secure. String one 6mm crystal, the bead cluster and a flattened bead cap onto a 2” head pin.

Thread the 2” head pin through an opening in the filigree ring base. Bend the tail of the head pin wrapping the excess wire around the filigree to secure.


Technique Filigree Bale

Materials List

• 6 x 28mm Deco Window Connector • 4.75mm Jump Ring

Necessary Tools

• Chain Nose Pliers • Bale Making Pliers

Helpful Tips Firmly grip the center of the connector with the bale making pliers, with the back side facing the smaller of the two barrels.

Bend one end of the connector following the curve of the smaller barrel. Repeat on the opposite end of the connector.

Use the bale pliers to round out any awkward bends by gently crimping down following the curve of the bale. Use chain nose pliers to line up the holes on each end.

This technique can be used with many different types of filigree and connectors.


Focals

Explore your creative possibilities! Render focals into creative settings, rivet, cluster with beads & charms, texture and relief.


Technique Focal Texturing

Materials List

• 41 x 18mm Diving Sparrow • 50 x 12mm Branch Necessary Tools

• Steel Block • Sandbag • Double Faced Texture Hammer Dimples/Narrow Stripes • Screw-down Hole Punch

Helpful Tips Use the dimpled hammer to texture the entire surface of the diving sparrow pendant.

Go over the dimpled pattern with the narrow stripes hammer to apply an additional texture to your focal.

Use a screw down hole punch to create holes at the top and bottom of the sparrow to attach jump rings and beads.

You can also use the rounded end of a ball pein hammer to create texture on the pendant.


Technique Dragonfly Wrapping

Materials List

• 47 x 35mm Art Deco Dragonfly • 38mm Gemstone Donut Necessary Tools

• Chain Nose Pliers • Bale Making Pliers

Helpful Tips

For a different variation of this classic design, try using this technique with the 50 x 39mm Ornate Dragonfly.

Turn in the edges of the wings to ap­proximately the same size as the stone or focal using bale making pliers.

String the tail through the donut. Use chain nose pliers to curl the tail of the dragonfly pendant back and up toward the wings. Crimp down to secure.

Use chain nose pliers to crimp each wing down tightly to the donut. The donut should fit snugly in the bail just created with the pendant.


Technique Reliefing & Alcohol Inks

Use bale making pliers to curve the butterfly by gently bending each of the wings downward.

Materials List

• 69 x 42mm Butterfly Grandeur • Ranger Meadow Alcohol ink • Ranger Sunshine Yellow Alcohol ink Necessary Tools

Relief the high points in the design using a polishing cloth.

• We R Memory Keepers Crop-A-Dile • Polishing Cloth • Ultra Fine Steel Wool

Helpful Tips Use the Crop-A-Dile to punch holes in each of the 4 corners of the butterfly.

Drop green and yellow alcohol inks onto the butterfly. Blow the colors to mix. Re-apply colors as needed to achieve the desired effect.

Relief the high points in the design using a polishing cloth or steel wool (this will remove the ink in the desired areas.)

Use a dab of MAAS metal polishing creme to highlight the detailed areas. Simply “wipe on” and “wipe off” to apply a rich, brilliant reflective luster to your piece.


Altered Blanks

Rivet, texture, paint, ink, imprint, emboss, etch, gloss, dap & drill Altered Blanks to create your own mini work of art!


Technique Dapping

Materials List

• 25mm Embossed Swirls • 34mm Embossed Vines Necessary Tools

• Dapping Block Set • Hammer

Helpful Tips Set the embossed vines face up into a large opening on the dapping block. Center the forming tool over your piece.

Hammer the top of the forming tool starting at the center and moving it around the edges until you have a smooth rounded shape.

Place the embossed swirls face-down into a small opening of the dapping block. Continue using the same steps to form this piece.

Using a larger carved depression or cup will form less of a convex shape, while with a smaller cup the curved shape will be more apparent.


Technique

Letter Imprinting & Paint Dabbers

Materials List

• 29mm Square Altered Blank • Ranger Citrus Acrylic Paint Dabber • Ranger Pitch Black Acrylic Paint Dabber • Sealer

Necessary Tools

• • • •

Hammer Steel Block Sand Bag 3mm Letter Punch Set • Rubber Stamps • Paint Brush

Place a blank onto a steel block and sandbag. Strike the stamp very deliberately with a hammer; repeat for the remaining letters.

Helpful Tips

You may also use StazOn ink to stamp images onto altered blanks.

Use an acrylic paint dabber to apply paint over the stamped word. Remove the excess paint from the surface of the blank using a tissue or paper towel.

Use an acrylic paint dabber to apply paint to a rubber stamp. Stamp as many times as desired on the blank, layering colors and patterns.

Use a paint brush to apply sealer to the stamped side of the blank using even strokes to create a smooth surface.


Technique Texturing & Riveting

Materials List

Place a blank onto a steel block and sandbag. Strike blank very deliberately to achieve your textured pattern.

• 32 x 18mm Rectangle Altered Blank • 22 x 9mm Rectangle Altered Blank • 17mm Bird Charm • ¼” Nail Head Rivet Necessary Tools

• • • • • • •

Use a screw-down hole punch to make an additional hole.

Steel Block Sand Bag Texture Hammers Chasing Hammer Hole Punch Beading Awl Side Cutter

Helpful Tips Use a beading awl to carefully enlarge the hole of your charm.

String a 1/4” nail head rivet through your charm and both blanks. Trim rivet to approximately 1/16” above the blank.

Use the flat side of a ball pein or chasing hammer to flatten the rivet. Four solid taps should be sufficient.

If you prefer the look of a smaller rivet, string the nail head from the back of your design. Trim and hammer the straight end from the front.


Technique Brads & Eyelets

Materials List

• 29mm Square Altered Blank • 34mm Wild Flower Fastenable • 4.5mm Brad • 1/8” Eyelets Necessary Tools

• We R Memory Keepers Crop-A-Dile • Chain Nose Pliers

Use the 1/8” hole punch on the Crop-A-Dile to make three holes into an altered blank.

Helpful Tips

The Crop-A-Dile has two hole punch sizes. If you prefer using larger eyelets, use the 3/16” hole punch and a larger eyelet setter.

String 1/8” eyelets through two of the holes. Select the correct eyelet setting gear & hub on the main jaw of the tool. Place through eyelet & hole, squeeze to set eyelets.

Place fastenable over additional hole. String a brad through fastenable and blank. Spread prongs of brad outward to rest against blank.

Use chain nose pliers to flatten and secure the brad to your blank.


Technique Rub-ons

Materials List

Print and prepare rub-on according to manufacturer instructions. Cut out, trimming as close as possible to the design. Burnish well with a paper creaser or popsicle stick.

• 34mm Circle Altered Blank • Rub-ons • Ranger Sunshine Yellow Alcohol ink • Ranger Rust Alcohol Ink • Ranger Pool Acrylic Paint Dabber • Ranger Glossy Accents

Peel the backing from the rub-on. Burnish any remaining white areas by replacing the backing and rubbing over them again.

Necessary Tools

• Ranger Paper Creaser • Paint Brush

Helpful Tips Add color by brushing yellow and rust alcohol inks across the surface.

Stipple aqua acrylic paint around the edges to add dimension.

Apply a thick layer of glossy accents to the blank with your finger. Use a toothpick to clear hole of any excess medium. Allow to dry.

For this project we used Graphix printable rub-on paper. Digital rubon graphic sheets are available for download at vintaj.com.


Technique

Embossing Powder & Alcohol Inks Materials List

• 25mm Circle Altered Blanks • Ranger Stream Alcohol Ink • Ranger Mixatives Copper Alcohol Ink • Ranger Alcohol Blending Solution • Claudine Hellmuth Studio MulitMedium Matte • Ranger Lettuce Embossing Powder • Ranger Big & Bossy Embossing Ink

Apply clear embossing ink to the rubber stamp and randomly stamp onto the blank creating a textured pattern.

Necessary Tools

• Rubber Stamp • Embossing Gun • Paint Brush

Helpful Tips

Try combining techniques to create your own unique variations.

Cover the entire surface of the blank with embossing powder.

Shake off the excess powder revealing the pattern.

Use an embossing gun to heat the powder. Let cool for 5 minutes.


Apply one drop of metallic mixatives into the blending solution.

Drop alcohol blending solution onto the blank. Cover the entire surface.

Apply one drop of colored alcohol ink into the blending solution.

Blow the mixture to create a random pattern of colors. Let dry.

Use a paint brush to apply a thick layer of matte medium to the blank. Use dabbing strokes to create an uneven surface.


Technique

Sizzix Embossing

Materials List

• 34mm Circle Altered Blank Necessary Tools

• Sizzix Vagabond or Big Shot • Sizzix Embossing Folder • Reliefing Block or Ultra Fine Steel Wool

Helpful Tips

Try coloring with alcohol inks, paint dabbers or sharpie markers before or after embossing for different effects.

Place the embossing folder (with the blank inside) between plates in the following order: platform, clear plate, embossing folder, clear plate. (do not use shim)

Feed the stack of plates through the Vagabond or Big Shot machine. The plates should roll through the machine. Remove blank from folder.

Use a reliefing block or ultra fine steel wool to highlight the raised areas of the blank.


Vagabond

Big Shot

Change up your shapes of Altered Blanks and choose from a variety of embossing folders to create a beautiful array of designs.

plates and embossing folder


Bezels

Set cabochons, resin collage, alter, ink, stamp, emboss, etch & layer, to create unique pendants & necklaces! Cluster, glue, alter, rivet, drill, paint and more!


Technique

Magic-Glos Resin Bezel Materials List

• 32mm Round Bezel • 20 x 18mm Queen Bee • Decorative Paper • Clear Packing Tape • Glue • Magic-Glos

Cover both sides of printed paper with clear packing tape. Use a paper creaser to smooth surface from air bubbles.

Necessary Tools

• Scissors • Ranger Paper Creaser • Side Cutter • UV Curing Light • Metal File Set (optional) • Embossing Gun (optional)

Cut out shape and glue to bezel. Again use the paper creaser to smooth down all edges.

Helpful Tips Use side cutter to clip off loops of connector. Use a metal file set to smooth edges if necessary. Set connector or charm into place.

Apply an even layer of magic-glos to entire surface, all the way to the edges of the bezel. Let sit for five minutes. Use an embossing gun to remove any remaining air bubbles.

Carefully transfer the bezel into the UV Curing Light. Let magic-glos cure for approximately 15 minutes before removing.

Use paint or embossing powder to create designs in your bezel. Try this technique using Ice Resin, Envirotex Resin or Glossy Accents as alternative mediums.


Technique Polymer Clay Bezel

Materials List

• 32mm Round Bezel • 30 x 35mm Queen Dragonfly • Sculpey III Gold Polymer Clay • Ranger Pitch Black Alcohol Ink • Ranger Mixatives Silver Alcohol Ink

Knead clay into shape of bezel.

Necessary Tools

• Ranger Paper Creaser • Ultra Fine Steel Wool • Oven

Press dragonfly face down into clay to imprint pattern.

Helpful Tips

Remove fingerprints or any imperfections by rolling with a clay roller or brayer, or by gently rocking it on a smooth surface.

Use the paper creaser to create textures around the dragonfly impression. Bake polymer clay according to manufacturer’s instructions.

Apply alcohol inks to the dragonfly impression and metallic mixatives to the textures. Let dry.

Use a piece of steel wool to distress the surface


Technique

Crackle Accents & Paint Dabbers

Materials List

• 21mm Small Bamboo Bezel • Paper • Glue • Ranger Crackle Accents • Ranger Pitch Black Acrylic Paint Dabber • Tissue

Cut paper into shape and glue into bezel. Use a paper creaser to smooth surface and edges.

Necessary Tools

• Scissors • Ranger Paper Creaser

Helpful Tips Using your finger tip, apply Crackle Accents to entire paper surface. Let dry for approximately 1 hour.

Apply Pitch Black Acrylic Paint Dabber over the dried crackled surface.

Wipe off excess paint with a tissue or paper towel, revealing the colored cracks.

Try using colored paint dabbers to coordinate with your decorative papers. You can seal in the paint with a layer of glossy accents.


Findings

Bring it all together! The foundation for every beautiful jewelry design, findings are as versatile as they are functional. Anchor your work with beautiful artful essentials.


Technique Basic Linking

Materials List

• 1.5” Eye Pin • Beads • Filigree Bead Caps • Jump Rings String the bead onto the straight end of the eye pin. Hold the looped end of the eye pin and cut the straight end approximately 1/4 inch above the bead using the side cutters of the rosary pliers.

Necessary Tools

• Rosary Pliers • Chain Nose Pliers

Helpful Tips Hold the bead securely onto the eye pin. Use the rosary pliers to grip the straight end of the eye pin, pulling it toward you to form a 45° angle.

Continue by turning the eye pin away from you until you’ve completed one full loop. Secure by tucking the end of the loop into the hole of the bead or bead cap.

Open one jump ring using two pair of chain nose pliers. Slide the jump ring through the loops on the ends of two bead links. Close the jump ring. Repeat.

Line up your eye pin loops. You’ll want your loops to line up in the same direction, so your finished piece has nice symmetry.


Technique

Clustering Beads & Charms

Materials List

• Filigree Bead Caps • Charms • 25mm Eternity Garden Ring • 1.5” Eye Pins • 1.5” Pearl Head Pins • Jump Rings • Chain • Crystals • Pearls Necessary Tools

• Rosary Pliers • Chain Nose Pliers

String the pearls and crystals onto head pins and eye pins. Use the linking technique to secure the beads onto your head pins and eye pins. Form a wrapped loop:

Helpful Tips

Alternate a variety of chain lengths, bead shapes & sizes for an asymmetrical look.

Begin with a 90° bend near the top of the bead. Use rosary pliers to form a simple loop with the tail overlapping. Wrap the tail tightly down the neck of the wire to create coils.

Connect the bead links, charms, chain and bead drops using jump rings. Repeat for multiple sequences.

Attach the bead sequences to the decorative ring using jump rings.


Technique Creative Toggle Clasp

Materials List

• 26 x 8mm Nouveau Swirls Creative Bar • 1” Head Pin • 4.75mm Jump Ring Necessary Tools

• Rosary Pliers • Chain Nose Pliers

Helpful Tips String a head pin through the patterned side of the toggle bar. Use the rosary pliers to grip the straight end of the head pin, pulling it toward you to form a 45° angle.

Continue by turning the head pin away from you (keeping the angle) until you’ve completed two full revolutions of a coiled loop, achieving plenty of tension on the toggle bar.

Slide the opened jump ring through the coiled loop. Using two pair of chain nose pliers, completely close the jump ring. Use an additional jump ring to attach.

Mix & match a variety of creative toggle bars and rings for the perfect complement to your design.


Technique Embellished Hook Clasp

Materials List

• 24 x 11mm Hook • 4mm Jump Ring Spacers • 4mm Circle Spacers • 1.5” Eye Pin Necessary Tools

• Chain Nose Pliers • Side Cutter

Helpful Tips

Use many different sequences of spacers to create unique variations of this hook.

Use chain nose pliers to completely close the loop on the hook. String the spacers, beads and eye pin onto the hook.

Wrap the end of the eye pin tightly around the base of the hook just above the loop while holding your beads in place.

Form two or three full coils. Use wire cutters to trim the excess wire. Use chain nose pliers to tuck in the end of the wire.


Resources Vintaj natural brass co. Natural Brass components, digital papers, digital rub-ons, hammers, texture hammers, steel block, sand bag, letter punch sets, dapping set, screw down hole punch, pliers www.vintaj.com Ranger Tim Holtz Adirondack Alcohol Inks, Alcohol Blending Solution, Acrylic Paint Dabbers, Inkssentials Glossy Accents, Crackle Accents, Embossing Powders, Embossing Inks, Claudine Hellmuth Studio Multi-Medium Matte, Paper Creaser www.rangerink.com lisa pavelka Lisa Pavelka Signature Series Magic-Glos, Lisa Pavelka’s UV Curing Light www.lisapavelka.com Ellison Sizzix Vagabond, Big Shot and Embossing Folders www.sizzix.com We r memory keepers Crop-A-Dile www.weronthenet.com sculpey Sculpey III Oven Bake Clay www.sculpey.com grafix Grafix Rub-Onz Ink Jet Rub-on Transfer Paper www.grafixarts.com tsukineko co. StazOn Ink www.tsukineko.com

Check our Vintaj Favorites page for Bead Resources at www.vintaj.com


24 unique techniques that will bring your designs to new heights! Open The Doorway to inspiration TM Clear off your design space, prepare your tools and pull out your Vintaj findings. In the pages of this technique book you will learn how to wrap, link, cluster, texture, rivet, stamp, ink, paint, emboss, collage, and much more! Explore your creativity and combine it with our techniques to add character to your designs. Find your inspiration with Vintaj in 24 beautifully photographed step-by-step techniques and projects including bracelets, earrings, necklaces, pendants and rings. Bend, twist and twirl to create something truly unique. Form your own filigree bales, get creative with basic findings, stamp, ink, dap, imprint, texture and rivet altered blanks. Collage with bezels to make your own mini works of art and manipulate focals in unexpected ways. The possibilities are endless. Join us on this creative journey and see where it takes your designs!

Š 2010 Vintaj Natural Brass Co.


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