PHM July-August 2012 by Paul Howells

The world of personal care ingredients

PUREHealth Magazine

COMMUNICATIONS

JULY/AUGUST 2012 ISSN 2046-2735

ANTIAGEING

GET EGG ON YOUR FACE! PINE BARK GOES CLINICAL

PACKAGING

AESTHETIC + PRACTICAL = SUCCESS

plant call culture

the new source of active ingredients

corporate profiles, topical probiotics and more

SKIN PROTECTION AND RENEWAL

skincare www.purehealthmag.co.uk

PersonalCare

Lonza Personal Care Offering a Comprehensive Product Portfolio for Specialty Solutions

We offer the most extensive portfolio of traditional and natural preservatives. In fact, many of our products are certified as natural or organic under global regulatory schemes and many of our bioactives are sourced from sustainable and renewable resources.

In addition to being the worldâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s largest suppliers of anti-dandruff actives, Lonza is a pioneer in custom-developed fermentation and biotechnical actives.

Lonza Microbial Control is pursuing a broad sustainability initiative aimed at optimizing the environmental, health and social impacts of our products and processes throughout the entire value chain.

Lonza Personal Care, 70 Tyler Place, South Plainfield, NJ 07080 Tel: +1 908 561 5200, lonzapc.arch@lonza.com

www.lonza.com

CONTENTS16

JULY/AUGUST 2012

From the Editor 05 Title to be delivered Dr Kevin Robinson News and Products 06 A Round Up of the Latest News and Updates

Emerging Technologies 08 Cosmetic Ingredients from Plant Cell Cultures: The Green Alternative Roberto Dal Toso Oral Health 12 Giving Fluoride the Brush Off Arman Sadeghpour Antiageing 13 French Maritime Pine Bark Extract Improves Signs of Ageing in Clinical Trial Cheryl Costanzo 14 Naturally Safe Beauty with Egg Oil Stuti Singh

6 24

Skincare 16 Q10: Beauty from Within and Without Peter Lambrechts 18 Strawberry Extract for a Radiant Complexion Anabelle Echard and Julie Droux 20 Skin Deep: Introducing Medical Micropigmentation Dr Theresa Bush Packaging 24 Practicality and Aesthetics John Atkin 26 Packaging Sustainability Based on Optimization, Not Minimization Stuart Roberts corporate profiles 28 Industry updates from key players in the personal care sector Natural Ingredients 36 Making the Most of the â&#x20AC;&#x2DC;Tree Of Lifeâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; Hugo Bovill Last Word 38 Topical Probiotics Rev Up Michael Bush

Editorial Director Kevin Robinson kevinrobinson@viacommsgroup.com Tel. +44 (0)1392 202 591

Registered Office:

Via Communications Ltd 145-157 St John Street, London, EC1V 4PW Publisher endeavours to collect and include complete, correct and current information in Pure Health Magazine, but does not warrant that any or all of such information is complete, correct or current. Publisher does not assume, and hereby disclaims, any liability to any person or entity for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions of any kind, whether resulting from negligence, accident or any other cause. If you do notice any error, we would appreciate if you would bring such error to our attention. Pure Health Magazine does not verify any claims or other information appearing in any of the advertisements contained in the publication, and cannot take any responsibility for any losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content. Copyright ÂŠ 2012, Via Communications Ltd All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical including by photocopy, recording or information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Send permission request in writing to Permissions Department, Pure Health Magazine, Fax +44 (0)1372 364 121. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Licensing Agency, 90 Tottenham Court Road, London W1P 0LP, UK (ISSN 2046-2735 ). ^ +4- GO RVO Ć&#x203A; ^ +4- GO RVO Ć&#x203A; ^ +4- GO RVO Ć&#x203A; ^ +4- GO RVO Ć&#x203A; 63 63 6XUIKYY )_GT6XUIKYY 3GMKTZG6XUIKYY ?KRRU]6XUIKYY (RGIQ

Associate Publisher/Sales Gill Healy gillhealy@viacommsgroup.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 128 Art Art Director/Production Paul Howells paulhowells@viacommsgroup.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 126 Content/Marketing Manager Claire Day claireday@viacommsgroup.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 129 Circulation info@viacommsgroup.com Financial Controller Cherelle Saunders cherellesaunders@viacommsgroup.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 123 Via Communications Ltd Managing Director Simon Jones simonjones@viacommsgroup.com Tel. +44 (0)1372 364 131

COMMUNICATIONS

FROM THE EDITOR

Publish and Be Wrong

Just a moment: is the worm finally turning? Having previously asked the question: what’s wrong with the word ‘cosmeceutical,’ I was pleasantly surprised — at first — to read an article recently that seemed to actually be promoting them to the general public. I’ll apologize here and now for failing to note down the actual source of the editorial, but it was a page that I ripped out of an inflight magazine while returning from a trade show in Germany. The author opened by commenting that when a basic cleanse, tone and moisturize regime no longer cuts the mustard (sic), and fillers and freezers aren’t an option, “it could be time to invest in cosmeceuticals.”

escribing them as

surgery and quick-fix facelifts,

delivering nutrients that are

noble pursuit of trying to look

a relatively recent

and she didn’t actually claim

necessary for healthy skin.

better for longer without going

addition to the

that these products — “the

Cosmeceuticals typically claim

under the knife. And as the

beauty business, the

perfect marriage of cosmetic

to improve skin tone, texture

interviewee in the article admits,

author defined cosmeceuticals as

and medical science” — could

and radiance, while reducing

her products do not and cannot

a new generation of antiageing

treat or cure a particular

wrinkling. What they don’t do,

provide like-for-like results when

products that combine cosmetics

condition or disease. But, when

and shouldn’t be “prescribed”

compared with dermatological

and pharmaceuticals: a hybrid

the term cosmeceutical is used

for, is to treat or cure impetigo,

and surgical procedures. Nor

approach to skincare that

in cosmetic advertising, or in

psoriasis or melanoma. And

does she actually claim any

harnesses biologically active

thinly disguised advertorials in

don’t get me wrong, I’m not

health-giving or therapeutic

ingredients that purport to have

consumer publications, it may be

pointing the finger of blame at

benefits. She’s obviously much

medical or drug-like benefits.

misleading to the consumer. Let

this one author or one article, this

better educated than the

Already, I was twitching for the

me rephrase that: it is misleading

misconception is endemic. It’s all

journalist! What she does offer

blue pencil of editing legend;

to the consumer. If the consumer

over the Internet and, therefore,

is semi-permanent effects and

already, I was thinking that this

interprets or is led to believe that

slowly permeating the collective

long-term benefits that depend

wasn’t quite the right story to be

a cosmeceutical is in any way

consciousness of the buying

entirely on the individual. A 20

telling consumers and end-users;

similar to a pharmaceutical

public. So what? Well, in the short-

year old with a very fast cell

already, I was thinking, you’ve

product, he or she may conclude

term, a complete lack of repeat

turnover will see very different

got it wrong. Again. I suppose

that cosmeceuticals are required

buyers as they refuse to purchase

results from that of a 50 year old.

the positive aspect was that,

to undergo the same testing for

miracle products that, in fact,

And that’s fair enough.

for once, a “beauty editor”

efficacy and quality control as

don’t do what it says on the tin.

wasn’t advocating cosmetic

required for medication.

In the long-term, potential fraud

ingredients that influence

claims, litigation and, dare I say it,

the biological function of

the death of an industry.

the skin. They do not cure

At the low end of the impact scale, this may allow the retailer to charge the consumer more for

The crux of the article, it

diseases. Any association with

transpired, was to highlight a

pharmaceuticals, therapeutic

company’s products that aimed

activity and medicinal drugs

to find a bona fide alternative

is misleading and wrong. The

to invasive surgery. The MD

industry needs clarification,

and the point that needs

and company founder stated:

regulation and definition; the

to be rammed home,

“Cosmeceuticals are a natural

media and the press need to be

progression for women who

educated and the general public

are looking for that something

needs the facts, not confusing

two completely different

extra from their skincare,” and

double-plus marketing speak.

beasts. Just because

added, as a self-confessed

the word is a hybrid, it

needle-phobic, “that there had

doesn’t mean that the

to be more gentle and, most

product is a chimera.

importantly, effective topical

Cosmeceuticals

solution to ageing.” Semantics

improve appearance;

and definitions aside, I do

a product that may actually be less effective and/or of poorer quality than perceived. At the other end of the spectrum,

is that cosmetics and pharmaceuticals are

they do so by

2012 JULY/AUGUST

Cosmeceuticals comprise

wholeheartedly agree with the

For more information

Dr Kevin Robinson is the Editorial Director of Pure Health Magazine (PHM) and can be reached at: kevinrobinson@viacommsgroup.com

News

Pure and Simple: Naturally

Balscand OU is an Estonian company that found M&H Plastics (www.mhplastics.com) on the Internet when searching for new packaging for their range of natural skincare oils. The Balscand collection of products contains a range of natural ingredients that are proven to gently moisturize and protect the skin. These include sweet almond, avocado, apricot kernel, grapeseed, hazelnut, macadamia nut, safflower, wheat germ, rose hip seed and evening primrose oil. The products are packaged in a combination of 100 mL and 50 mL PET tubular bottles, plus 100 mL PP topaz jars. The company selected these products from M&H’s portfolio of more than 1200 standard products. Harry Tamm of Balscand OU said: “It’s important to create attractive packaging in this market sector in which style is critical to a product’s success … but this needs to be at a cost-effective price. Our Account Manager gave us a large number of valuable suggestions regarding what products were available to meet our requirements. We were very impressed with their attitude and found them to be extremely helpful and knowledgeable, and we are delighted with the final packaging.”

Payot Dropper Delivers Vitamin Treatment

Payot’s Cure Intense Clarté is a vitamin-enriched radiance serum contained in a Twin Mix pack developed by international packaging provider Quadpack (www.quadpack. net). Thanks to the combination of vitamin C and Derma-WhiteBerry Complex, this energizing treatment revives the transparency and radiance of even the dullest complexion. Cure Intense Clarté comes in three 10 mL vials for a 21-day treatment. The serum corrects pigmentation defects, smoothes the features and protects the skin against UV damage. Quadpack’s Twin Mix pack is ideal for high-value, intensive treatments that contain active ingredients preserved in powder form. Pressing the cap perforates the seal that separates the powder from the liquid. The consumer shakes the pack to mix the two formulas to activate the treatment. The product is then applied using a pipette dropper. Part of Payot’s Absolute Pure White range, Cure Intense Clarté features glossy grey pearl lacquering, with plum-coloured lettering applied using one-pass silkscreening.

Oat Cosmetics Enters US Market Oat Cosmetics is set to break into the US cosmetics market. The UK-based natural ingredients specialist has announced that it has secured Charkit Chemical Corporation as its exclusive North American distributor of both its colloidal oatmeal and oat oil products. This major step-up in US activity can be attributed to the superiority of its oat-based ingredients, reports Oat Cosmetics and, in particular, its colloidal oatmeal. Although the benefits of colloidal oatmeal are widely known (the US FDA recognized it as a skin protectant in 2003), Oat Cosmetics has further enhanced the ingredient’s efficacy through the development of an advanced extrusion technology. Cark Maunsell, Managing Director of Oat Cosmetics, explained: “Our high-performance colloidal oatmeal achieves high microbial purity without the need for irradiation. This unique modification, which overcomes safety, sustainability and traceability issues, presents new opportunities for the cosmetics industry in the development of natural and organic products. For Charkit, one of the largest US chemical distributors, to opt for a UK-based producer of colloidal oatmeal and oat oil to supply manufacturers country wide, is testament to the superiority of the products we have created.” From now on, oat oil developed by Oat Cosmetics will also be available to formulators throughout the US through Charkit. Produced from a specific oat variety and gently extracted using an ethanolic process, this grade of oat oil is of high clarity, low odour, lightly coloured and a highly effective emollient, making it ideal for creams and lotions. Charles Hinnant, President, Charkit Chemical Corporation, added: “We’re delighted to establish a supplier relationship with Oat Cosmetics, innovative creators of oat-based products that provide substantial advantages derived from their advanced technology.”

AkzoNobel Global Personal Care Appoints Regional Technical Manager for Asia

The Global Personal Care business of AkzoNobel Surface Chemistry is pleased to announce the appointment of Jane Wang, PhD, as Regional Technical Manager, Asia. Her responsibilities include administering technical resource allocation processes across all Asian markets and laboratories, developing and implementing technical service strategies for the region and ensuring excellent technical support for all Asian customers. Based at AkzoNobel’s Songjiang site in Shanghai, China, Dr Wang reports directly to Gary Martino, Senior Director, R&D, AkzoNobel Global Personal Care. Dr Wang brings nine years of R&D experience in the home and personal care (HPC) industries to her new position. Prior to joining AkzoNobel, she was an HPC Laboratory Manager with Rhodia China at the company’s R&D centre in Shanghai. A graduate of the East China University of Science and Technology in Shanghai, Dr Wang went on to earn her Doctorate of Philosophy degree in analytical biochemistry from the University of Missouri, USA (www.akzonobel.com).

JULY/AUGUST 2012

Biomimetic Keratin

Croda is pleased to announce the launch of Keramimic 2.0, a new keratin quat that takes biomimetics to the next generation. Developed using a proprietary manufacturing method, this highly specialized conditioning active provides targeted repair to the most damaged areas of the hair’s surface. Developed using the most recent advances in proteomics, the amino acid sequences of the peptides found in Keramimic 2.0 match those present in the cuticular and cortical regions of human hair. Keramimic 2.0 not only treats ‘like with like,’ it mimics the peptides found in hair keratin proteins to repair and condition the most damaged areas of the hair cuticle. In addition to Keramimic 2.0’s biomimetic behaviour, it can intelligently work to provide restoration to the areas of the hair that need the most treatment. Analysis of a hair fibre shows the hair’s anionic surface becoming progressively more anionic as it is subjected to more damage towards the tip. Time-of-flight secondary-ion-mass-spectroscopy (ToFSIMS) image mapping technique has been used to demonstrate that using Croda’s cationic chemistry, Keramimic 2.0 deposits on the most damaged areas of the hair cuticle from root to tip, intelligently repairing the hair’s surface right where it is needed most. Take hair care products to the next generation with Keramimic 2.0, for the intelligent repair of damaged hair (www.croda.com/europe/pc).

Cellular Communication for Skin Matrix Repair One of the results of ageing is that the communication process between skin cells, which is mediated by growth factors, is reduced. As a consequence, the activity of fibroblasts decreases. Unfortunately, this strongly affects the extracellular matrix (ECM), the structural network of the skin. The result of this is a reduction in the skin’s firmness, elasticity and density. Without question, it is a challenge to reach dermal fibroblasts by topically applied cosmetics. However, as these cells communicate with the keratinocytes, which are in the outer skin layers, they can be targeted by this exact communication process. This dialogue, which is crucial for a youthful appearance, is in turn mediated by growth factors that are impaired with age. DermCom uses this smart strategy to successfully rejuvenate the skin matrix deep in the dermis. It stimulates the communication between epidermal and dermal skin cells by triggering keratinocytes to secrete growth factors. These growth factors enhance the synthesis of collagen and elastin in the dermis. Clinical studies have confirmed that DermCom both improves and repairs skin texture through its growth factor-like activity. DermCom is based on the bulbs of Crocus chrysanthus, also known as “Cream Beauty,” which is a universal symbol of rejuvenation and youthfulness (www.mibellebiochemistry.com).

Lubrizol Signs Agreement to Acquire Lipotec

The Lubrizol Corporation (www.lubrizol.com) has announced that it has signed an agreement to purchase Lipotec SA, a leader in the development, manufacture and sale of personal care ingredients based on three core technologies: peptide-based active cosmetic ingredients, delivery systems and biotechnology products. The purchase includes Lipotec’s cosmetic active ingredients business and its subsidiaries, Diverdrugs and Lipofoods. This acquisition complements Lubrizol’s global personal care ingredients business, strengthening its offering of high-performance technology solutions to marketers of formulated skincare products. Founded in 1987 and headquartered in Barcelona, Spain, Lipotec, part of Lipotec Group, is a leading global supplier of cosmetic peptides, a key performance ingredient in skincare products. “This acquisition follows our 2011 acquisitions of Nalco’s conditioning polymer business and Active Organics botanical extracts and natural performance ingredients,” commented Rick Tolin, Lubrizol VP and General Manager, PersonalSeite and Home A5 quer-4c-D-F-E:Layout 1 07.09.2010 15:23 Uhr 3 Care. “Adding Lipotec further illustrates our commitment to providing a broad product portfolio, new technology and applications expertise that enhance Lubrizol’s ability to make customers successful through expanded access to innovative ingredients.”

www.stolz-concept.de

We’re taking a (super)critical look at extract quality

FLAVEX ® Naturextrakte GmbH · info@flavex.com · www.flavex.com 2012 JULY/AUGUST

Emerging Technologies

Cosmetic Ingredients from Plant Cell Cultures: The Green Alternative

otanical extracts and

green biotechnological

plants have always been

approach that uses cultures

a major source of food and health ingredients,

tissue damage.

not protected by mechanical

In fact, the first step for the

barriers — bark, for example

of plant cells that offer new

generation of new plant cell

— which are typical of more

possibilities in the production

lines is an incision in the plant

differentiated tissues; they do,

providing a wide range of

of plant-derived ingredients.

tissue to stimulate meristematic

however, generally contain the

biologically active substances

International food institutions,

activity and initiate a tissue repair

highest levels of PPs in the plant.

that have not only been

such as FAO, are well aware of

response through the induction

As frequently occurs in nature,

used for nutrition, but also for

the need for such measures;

of aggregates of plant stem cells

single molecules are involved

cosmetic and pharmaceutical

in1994, they endorsed the use of

called a “callus.” These cells

in a number of physiological

applications. Despite a number

plant cell cultures as a process

can grow indefinitely in culture

functions and this is also true for

of agricultural and technological

to produce natural substances

provided they are regularly

PPs. Thanks to the presence of

improvements in plant cultivation

for food use. In the cosmetic

subcultured into fresh solid or

caffeic acid and hydroxytyrosol

and product manufacturing

field, the rapid growth of this

liquid growth medium. Thanks

in the molecular structure of PPs,

procedures during the centuries,

biotechnology is made evident

to totipotency, tissue cultured

they have a very high antioxidant

the required safety, availability

by the recent increased number

cells can also be induced to

scavenging activity for reactive

and purity standards of natural

of products based on “plant cell

redifferentiate into whole plants

oxygen and nitrogen species

ingredients cannot always be

cultures” or “plant stem cells.”

by modifying the growth media.

(ROS and RNS), as well as a strong

The exact conditions required

chelating affinity for metals (iron

to initiate and sustain plant cells

and copper, for instance), thus

traditional production process

Plant Stem Cell Technology

in culture are different for each

preventing them from catalysing

itself. Indeed numerous

The biological basis for the

plant species and, therefore,

dangerous oxidative cycles such

uncontrolled environmental

technique is the presence — in

require specific experience in the

as the Fenton reaction.

factors can significantly modify

all higher plants — of a totipotent

technology.

During plant differentiation,

the levels of active substances

stem cell reservoir of specialized

in the plant. Furthermore, the

tissues (meristems), which is

widespread industrial use of

located mainly at the growth tips

ingredients derived from slow

of the plant, namely the roots

growing or rare and endangered

100% guaranteed — because of the intrinsic nature of the

PPs are initially synthesized as monomers in rapidly

and buds. These meristematic

Phenylpropanoids: Secondary Metabolites from Plants

plant species poses serious

cells are small, undifferentiated,

Plant meristem cells are rich in

monomers are covalently linked

risks of over-harvesting, thus

permanently dividing cells that

physiological substances that

to form polymers such as lignin

underscoring the need for

become committed to develop

play a role in cell metabolism and

and tannins, which are very

ecological biodiversity protection

into each different cell type as

both support and protect cell

compact and highly insoluble

and sustainable production.

the plant grows. Other plant cells,

growth. A group of molecules,

substances that also contribute

located in more differentiated

known as phenylpropanoids

to mechanical plant cell

plant tissues, also maintain

(PPs), play a very important role

protection. The protective action

stem-cell-like

in defending the plant meristem

of PPs has also been proven for

properties

cells from environmental stresses

animal cells, and specifically

(meristematic

that are both biotic (such

for human skin fibroblasts and

potential) and

as viruses and other micro-

keratinocytes, which is perhaps

may reactivate

organisms) as well as abiotic

not too surprising as the major

full “totipotency”

(such as UVB/UVA radiation and

environmental stresses (UV light

under specific

heavy metal toxicity). Being

and environmental toxicants)

conditions, such

meristematic, tissues such as

appear to be the same for

as those that

young sprouts are particularly

both plant cells and skin cells.

occur following

critical for plant survival but are

As a consequence of the

New ways of coping with these issues derive from an innovative

Figure 1: Comparison of land, water and solvent use between traditional and the HTN production technology.

proliferating cells. When cell proliferation is reduced or stops, the phenylpropanoid

JULY/AUGUST 2012

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Emerging Technologies Figure 2: The molecular structure of leontopodic acid A.

Figure 4: Leontopodium alpinum stems G reduces wrinkle depth by 15% after only 20 days of treatment.

guarantee a reproducible content and profile of the active substances in the final extract, thereby overcoming the issue of variability linked to climatic and geographical conditions (which are almost impossible to control

and also a reliable way to

dicaffeoylquinic acids, have also

polymerization, the

using conventional cultivation

quantify the benefits in terms

been shown to have interesting

concentration of

techniques).

of ecosustainability. Impressive

biological properties such as the

data have been obtained from

inhibition of collagenase and

phenylpropanoid monomers is

It also obviates the natural

highly reduced in differentiated

biological cycle of the plant and

comparisons with traditional

hyaluronidase, two enzymes of

tissues (approximately 0.01% of

its seasonality, as it is possible

agriculture: a reduction in water

the dermal matrix that are linked

the plant’s dry weight), making

to “cultivate” the plant cells all

and land use of 99.9% and a

to skin ageing. The properties of

it difficult to extract sufficient

year long. Thus, plant cell culture

decrease in organic solvent

edelweiss stem cells have been

amounts of purified PPs from

technology offers a source

use of 80% for the production

clinically tested to demonstrate

adult plant tissues to study and

of active substances, such as

of 1 kg of the active substance

their antiageing and antiwrinkle

test their biological properties.

phenylpropanoids, with no

echinacoside (Figure 1).

activity: 20 subjects (aged

However, thanks to the extremely

further need to breed, cultivate

high biological activity of PPs

and/or collect plants in open

demanding R&D work is the

with 1% of the ingredient to the

in animal cells, there is large

fields any more, or from rare,

Powerful Stems product line.

eye contour area twice daily for

body of scientific literature on

endangered and protected

One key example is a cosmetic

40 days. Results were registered

the most abundant PPs, namely

plants, such as Leontopodium

ingredient comprising edelweiss

by digitally scanning the wrinkle

verbascoside, echinacoside,

alpinum (edelweiss), thus

stem cells (20%) in glycerin

microprofile and measuring the

chlorogenic acid and rosmarinic

preserving natural biodiversity

(Leontopodium alpinum stems

depth at day 0, day 22 and day

acid.

and dramatically improving

G), which contains a guaranteed

40. Data have demonstrated a

environmental sustainability.

minimum level (>0.1%) of

statistically significant (p<0.001)

leontopodic acid A (Figure 2).

15% reduction after 22 days and

Edelweiss is a herbaceous plant

further improvement to 18% after

of the Asteraceae family that

40 days of treatment (Figure 4).

to substitute and replace the

Cosmetic Ingredients from HTN Technology

traditional production of natural

Since 2003, IRB has directed

is a rare and protected species

plant actives, with incomparable

its R&D efforts towards the

Conclusion

(in danger of extinction) and

Edelweiss is a natural source

advantages in terms of quality

set up of a biotechnological

has become the symbol of the

of very active substances

and ecosustainability. With the

platform (called HTN) for the

Alpine flora. Edelweiss lives

with potentially interesting

culture being grown in sterile

production and constant

in a very harsh environment,

applications in cosmetics; but,

and controlled conditions,

optimization of actives as an

particularly exposed to

the status of this endangered

a superior safety profile is

alternative source to traditional

high levels of UV light, cold

and protected species, and

guaranteed for the consumer as

agricultural and extraction

temperatures and other abiotic

the very limited amounts of

the presence of environmental

techniques. Starting from plant

stresses. As such, its survival

such molecules in the plant

contaminants such as heavy

stem cell ingredients with a

depends on the ability of the

tissue, have always hampered

metals is totally avoided — as

specific cell line profile, it has

plant to synthesize a number

their commercial use. Plant cell

is the need for herbicides and

been possible to obtain titrated

of defensive molecules, called

culture technology, such as the

pesticides. Besides, thanks to

biotech plant ingredients. The

phenylpropanoids, which protect

HTN platform, can be a useful

the strict control of the culture

titration of specific bioactives

it from the various environmental

tool to overcome such issues

conditions and continuous

is an objective measure of the

stresses. In the case of edelweiss,

and provide highly effective

selection, it is possible to

efficacy of plant stem cells

those natural protective

cosmetic ingredients while

substances are leontopodic

preserving biodiversity and

acids A and B. Only recently

the environmental balance.

identified because of their low

Indeed, it is even possible to

concentrations in fresh tissue,

reproduce the same natural,

they very difficult to isolate using

biologically active substances of

the traditional methodologies of

the plant (such as leontopodic

plant extraction. Owing to their

acids), independent of

physiological role, leontopodic

any geographical and

acids have a wide range of

environmental limitations.

The Advantages The real benefit of these biotechnologies is their ability

Figure 3: Antioxidant activity (TEAC method) of molecules present in Leontopodium alpinum stems G compared with standard antioxidants.

The result of such long and

35–65) applied a topical cream

grows in high mountain areas; it

biological activities and, as an example, they provide a strong antioxidant capacity, which is at least three times more effective than vitamin C (Figure 3). These specific substances, together with other interesting antioxidant molecules such as

For more information Roberto Dal Toso Via Lago di Tovel 7 I-36077 Altavilla Vicentina, Italy. Tel. +390 444 371 463 r.daltoso@irbtech.com www.irbtech.com

JULY/AUGUST 2012

2012 MAY/JUNE

Oral Health strap

Giving FLUORIDE the BRUSHOff

Every industrial country in the world uses fluoride as the active ingredient in toothpastes as an anticavity ingredient. Yet, more and more studies are pointing to fluoride as a harmful substance with links to Alzheimer’s, osteosarcoma and hypothyroidism. There has been no alternative to fluoride for almost a century … until now. Dr Kevin Robinson spoke to Arman Sadeghpour, President and CEO of Theodent, to find out more.

heodent LLC was legally formed as a Louisiana Limited Liability Company, in 2007 by Dr Arman Sadeghpour, Dr Tetsuo Nakamoto, Dr William Simmons, and Mr Joseph Fuselier. The four members formed the company to commercialize technology described in two apatiteforming patents assigned to the company. The founding team is diverse in their backgrounds and complimentary in their skill sets, creating an entity whose sum is much greater than its parts. Theodent’s technology revolves around a very well known set of compounds (the methylated xanthines). The accidental discovery of the remarkable effect of Rennou — a chocolate extract — was made by Dr Nakamoto while he was studying the effects of caffeine on prenatal teeth. What he discovered was that caffeine adversely affects tooth formation whereas Rennou enhanced the strength of teeth. The profound ability of Rennou to catalyse the formation of hydroxyapatite was later confirmed by Arman Sadeghpour during his PhD thesis

at Tulane; he measured the micro-hardness of the enamel surface of human teeth that had been treated with either artificial saliva or artificial saliva with Rennou. Additionally, Dr Clifton Carey of the American Dental Association Foundation (Paffenbarger Research Center) independently confirmed the fact that Rennou was more effective at protecting human enamel from dissolution than fluoride. PHM: Explain the formulation of Theodent to our readers: how does it work and what are its benefits? AS: Theodent toothpaste represents a revolution in oral care. Our fluoride-free formulation harnesses the power or Rennou, our proprietary active ingredient, which is an extract from chocolate. This extract actually stimulates the growth of newer and more robust enamel on the surface of human teeth by generating newer and larger hydroxyapatite unit crystals. PHM: Do you have plans to expand the range? If so, what

other delivery systems might you consider? AS: We are definitely looking to expand the range of our products to include a mouthwash, a toothpaste for children, dental floss and a wide range of in-office use dental products such as polishing pastes and tooth strengthening gels. PHM: Does the cocoa extract have the same aesthetic benefits as fluoride? AS: Regarding “aesthetic benefits,” your readers should know that there really aren’t any. In fact, excess fluoride exposure actually causes a condition called dental fluorosis, which results in unsightly brown spotting of the enamel. Fluoride becomes incorporated into tooth enamel by replacing the hydroxyl group in hydroxyapatite and helps to protect it from bacterial acid erosion; but overexposure leads to dental fluorosis. As Theodent contains no fluoride, and our active ingredient helps to form new hydroxyapatite, you’ll have a fluoride-free smile that gets whiter and whiter after each use (as the newer enamel will be stronger

and free from incorporated fluoride). PHM: What gap in the market does Theodent address? AS: Theodent responds to the demand of customers seeking a fluoride-free toothpaste formulation that actually has a significant oral care benefit. The only alternative to fluoride in the past century was simply to not have fluoride in the formulation. But now, thanks to Theodent, it’s time to get “Out with the old and in with the Rennou.” PHM: Why do you think major breakthroughs in oral care have been so rare? AS: It’s odd that in all other facets of our life, we demand the latest and greatest technology, but oral care has somehow fallen short. Had it not been for our serendipitous discovery of Rennou, then fluoride would have continued to be the gold standard in oral care. Rennou was discovered, by pure accident, to increase the size of unit crystals in enamel. I feel that serendipity favours the prepared mind and we were simply fortunate to properly interpret the results of our research into this amazing discovery; one that is poised to be the new gold standard in global oral health care!

For more information

Arman Sadeghpour President and CEO Theodent The BioInnovation Center 1441 Canal Street #411 New Orleans, Louisiana 70112, USA. Tel. +1 504 264 5050 info@theodent.com www.theodent.com

JULY/AUGUST 2012

antiageing

French Maritime Pine Bark Extract

Improves Signs of Ageing in Clinical Trial Natural supplement found to improve skin elasticity by 25% and skin hydration by 8%.

COL1A1 and COL1A2. The study found that • Pycnogenol elevated COL1A1 expression by 29%

uman skin is the body’s

support its safety and efficacy

and COL1A2 by 41%, and

first line of defence

as an ingredient. Pycnogenol

increased hyaluronic acid

and often mirrors the

is standardized to provide

health, nutritional

procyanidins at a concentration

production in skin by 44% • Pycnogenol enhanced skin

status and age of a person. With

of 70% (±5%), which represents

elasticity by 25%, in addition

time, skin shows signs of ageing as

oligomers of catechin and

to skin hydration by 8%, and

a result of the gradual breakdown

epicatechin subunits. The extract

was especially noticeable in

of collagen and elastin. However,

further contains monomeric

women who had dry skin from

women who actually represent

skin can be rebuilt and made

flavonoid constituents (INCI

the start, with an increase of

our consumer profile greatly

healthier … no matter what

name: Pinus pinaster [bark

21%

supports our efforts to target

your age. Natural supplement

extract], EINECS 290-166-2).

Pycnogenol was found to improve

The study was conducted at

• Pycnogenol decreased skin fatigue considerably

the skin beauty category for both dietary supplements

skin hydration and elasticity in

the Leibniz Research Institute for

women in a new clinical study

Environmental Medicine (IUF)

wrinkles by 3% and increased

Victor Ferrari, CEO of Horphag

published in Skin Pharmacology

in Düsseldorf, Germany, and

skin smoothness by 6%.

Research, exclusive worldwide

and Physiology. Pycnogenol is a

examined 20 healthy women

“To date, Pycnogenol is the

suppliers of Pycnogenol, who

natural plant extract originating

aged 55–68 years. Participants

only natural supplement that

welcomes the publication.

from the bark of the maritime

were given 75 mg of Pycnogenol

stimulates hyaluronic acid

According to Ferrari, beauty

pine that grows along the coast

per day, for a period of 12 weeks.

production in human skin.

from within has been a driver in

of southwest France and is found

Skin hydration, skin elasticity and

And, we are encouraged

Horphag’s business for the last

to contain a unique combination

skin fatigue were assessed by

by the molecular evidence

few years, with Asian markets

of procyanidins, bioflavonoids

non-invasive biophysical methods

confirmed in this study that shows

including numerous Pycnogenol

and organic acids, which offer

at the start of the trial and after

nutritional supplementation with

products in the skincare field.

extensive natural health benefits.

6 and 12 months. In addition, at

Pycnogenol benefits human skin,”

This study joins a sizable and

The extract has been widely

the beginning and after 12 weeks

explained Dr Jean Krutmann,

rapidly expanding portfolio of

studied for the past 40 years and

of Pycnogenol supplementation,

the lead researcher from the

established skin research on

has more than 280 published

a biopsy was obtained to assess

Leibniz Research Institute in

Pycnogenol. It confirms previous

studies and review articles to

the expression of genes HAS-1,

Düsseldorf, Germany. Study results

indications that Pycnogenol

confirmed that Pycnogenol

improves human skin conditions,

improved skin at a physiological

including promoting glowing skin

and molecular level. Pycnogenol

and reducing the appearance

increased hyaluronic acid in

of over-pigmentation and skin

women by 44% after 12 weeks

inflammation, resulting in a

of supplementation. Hyaluronic

more even complexion. Today,

acid binds large quantities of

Pycnogenol is available in more

water in the skin and in other

than 700 dietary supplements,

tissues, such as cartilage. An

multivitamins and health products

increased amount of hyaluronic

worldwide.

• Pycnogenol reduced skin

acid explains the increased skin hydration, higher elasticity and overall smoother skin appearance found in women taking Pycnogenol. “This exciting and technically advanced investigation with

2012 MAY/JUNE

and functional foods,” said

For more information Cheryl Costanzo Manager of Global Communications Horphag Research Tel. +1 773 935 3628 cheryl@pycnogenol.com www.pycnogenol.com

antiageing

Naturally Safe Beauty with Egg Oil

The inadvertent use of chemicals in cosmetics, combined with the rising incidence of chronic illnesses such as cancer, has precipitated the comeback of ancient medicines. The tried and tested “grandma remedies,” often ameliorated with modern technolog y, do, indeed, meeting the challenge of treating the numerous chronic conditions that modern life has created; but, many people have decided to try new approaches to their health and beauty. And while synthetic cosmetics are still flooding the market, more and more people are opting for natural remedies.

kin is our saviour! It protects

occasionally been found to be

Egg Yolk Oil

be synthesized by the body in

us from environmental

carcinogenic, and ingredients

Egg oil, extracted from the yolks of

sufficient amounts. Hence, they

challenges such as

as well known as glycerin/

chicken eggs, is nothing less than

have to be supplied externally.

heat and cold, etc.,

glycerol have also been proved

a magic ingredient provided by

There are very few natural sources

and with its elaborate defence

to be hazardous. The average

Mother Nature. Originally referred

of omega-3 and omega-6 fatty

system, it saves us from infectious

woman absorbs almost 5 lb of

to in terms of alchemy (circa 400

acids, egg oil being one of the

pathogens. Sadly, the more we

chemicals through her skin each

BC) regarding its effectiveness

richest. What adds more value to

try to beautify and protect our

year, according to biochemist

concerning the regeneration of

egg oil is its high percentage of

skin by using cosmetics, the more

Richard Bence, who spent 3 years

skin and cell membranes, egg oil

cholesterol, which helps the skin

we blemish it. The commonly

studying the ingredients in skin

is rich in essential polyunsaturated

to absorb the oil. The unique lipid

used chemicals in creams and

creams. This abuse of chemicals in

fatty acids (PUFAs) such as

profile of egg oil is very similar

lotions — such as parabens,

cosmetics needs to be eliminated

omega-3 and omega-6. These

to the human skin and, as such,

phthalates, petrochemicals and

and, fortunately, nature has the

are essential for normal growth

it integrates easily in the skin

even cosmetic fragrances — have

required solution.

and development but cannot

membrane.

JULY/AUGUST 2012

A One-Stop Solution for Problem Skin

antiacne formulations.

applications does not end there.

the release of interleukin 8, a

Egg oil has been used to treat

molecule responsible for gearing

Egg oil can be used as an

for egg yolk oil is antiageing.

wounds and injuries for centuries.

up the white blood cells to

excipient/carrier in a variety of

Ageing is caused by reactive

For example, Ambroise Paré,

fight infection. Scarring in burns

cosmetic preparations, such

oxygen species (ROS), which

widely considered to be the

patients is not just a physical

as creams, ointments and

trigger a chain of chemical

greatest surgeon of the sixteenth

concept; it also has a significant

lotions, in which it acts as an

reactions and destroy the cells by

century, used a solution of egg

psychological impact on the

emollient or moisturizer. It also

negatively affecting the DNA. Egg

yolk, oil of roses, and turpentine

patient and can, of course, last

helps the textural, lubricating

oil influences the production and

to treat battle wounds, an old

forever. One of the major plus

and antifriction properties of

sequestering of free radicals. In a

method that the Romans had

points of egg oil in the treatment

creams and lotions for skin. As an

scientific study done on human

discovered 1000 years before him.

of burns is that it minimizes scar

occlusive agent, it protects against

skin cells, it was found that after 24

He published his first book. “The

formation.

dehydration without disturbing the

h, egg oil-treated cells produced

Method of Curing Wounds Caused

pores and is easily incorporated

less ROS. Egg oil increases the

by Arquebus and Firearms,” in

Safe Without Doubt!

into topical preparations as it forms

production of catalase, which acts

1545. It is a natural emollient and

Egg oil has a history in reference

stable oil-in-water emulsions. In

as a scavenger of free radicals

can be used externally on burns.

textbooks that dates back

addition, it can be incorporated

or ROS. Also, egg oil stimulates

Studies have also shown that egg

thousands of years. Hence, it

into sunscreens, as it acts as

cellular respiration; cells incubated

oil stimulates re-epithelialization.

can be safely concluded that

a penetration enhancer. The

with egg oil over night showed an

In an experiment, skin cells

it has been tried and tested for

antibacterial action of egg yolk

increase in oxygen consumption.

were grown to confluence and

millennia. As Oelova egg oil from

oil is well proven in documented

More oxygen means more energy

a rim was left free of cells. On

VAV Life Sciences is extracted

scientific studies and this property

for the cell.

incubating with egg oil for 2 days,

using a cold process that does not

this previously cell-free area was

involve the use of any chemicals

covered by growing cells. Hence,

or heat, the therapeutic properties

an acceleration of cell growth

of the oil are preserved. The

was observed. The essential fatty

extraction is done in a way that

makes it a suitable ingredient for

Another significant application

The kaleidoscope of egg oil

acids of the yolk are responsible

makes the oil completely free

for the reduction in catabolism

from proteins, which renders it

as well as increased matrix

100% usable by people who are

synthesis and the promotion

allergic to eggs (egg allergies

of new skin growth.

are caused by egg proteins). VAV LIFE SCIENCES, an India-based

As opposed to skin

company, believes that nature

grafting, egg oil does

provides us with an abundance

not change the texture

of resources to aid our own

of the new skin. It is also

health and well-being. From a

useful when treating

modest beginning in 2003, VAV

radiation burns, such

has been growing steadily, now

as those caused during

offers its products and services

cancer treatment. Egg

globally and has several reputable

oil keeps the wound sterile because of its antibacterial action. It has been

companies as customers. Headquartered in Mumbai, VAV uses modern technology to tap the therapeutic potential of our natural resources, especially when

scientifically

it comes to ancient medicines

proven that

for various pharmaceutical,

egg oil

biotechnology and nutritional

stimulates

applications.

For more information Stuti Singh VAV Life Sciences Pvt Ltd 51/B Mittal Court 224 Nariman Point Mumbai 400021 India. Tel. +91 22 2283 6802 stuti@vav.in www.oleova.com/www.vav.in

2012 JULY/AUGUST

skincare

Q10: BEAUTY

FROM WITHIN ANDWithout The human skin mirrors health and vitality like no other organ; as such, its care is of paramount importance. Although the effects of revitalizing coenzyme Q10 in topical treatments have been more widely researched, some studies suggest that oral supplementation of the vitamin-like substance is similarly beneficial for the skin. This therefore begs the question: is there evidence for the combined use of both treatments?

s the human body’s

deeper layers of the skin, which

such as weather conditions, dry

and elastin. Additionally, as

largest organ,

depends on an adequate supply

climates, exposure to the sun’s

skin ages, collagen and elastin

the skin provides

of nutrients.

ultraviolet (UV) light and frequent

fibres disintegrate, causing an

showering — leave the skin

inevitable loss of skin firmness

demanding more energy and

and flexibility. Various studies

Predominantly consisting of

A Vital Role for Healthy Skin

lacking moisture and elasticity,

have shown that the topical

keratinocytes and melanocytes,

The vitamin-like coenzyme Q10

which can manifest itself as

application of preparations

the top layer of the skin, the

plays an important role in the

wrinkles, sagging skin, age spots

containing coenzyme Q10 is

epidermis, forms a superficial

production of energy; and, as

and even cancerous lesions.

more beneficial for the skin than

layer against bacteria,

such, can be found in virtually

Not only can coenzyme Q10

other types of antiageing cream.

chemicals and irradiation. The

every cell in the human body,

replenish the skin’s energy supply,

As coenzyme Q10 is a fat-soluble

next layer down, the dermis,

including skin cells. Within the

but its antioxidant function

substance, it can penetrate into

comprises a regenerative matrix

skin, coenzyme Q10 is primarily

also has an important role to

the deeper layers of the skin very

of connective tissue, supported

found in the surface layer of

play here, as it protects cell

well and is thus able to prevent

by collagen and elastin proteins

the epidermis, the stratum

membranes from the free radical

many of the detrimental effects

that are responsible for the skin’s

corneum, where it ensures the

damage caused by UVA light,

of daily aggressors and light-

mechanical properties. Features

reutilization of vitamins E and

as well as unhealthy diets and

induced ageing.

such as elasticity, firmness

C, which is required for skin

smoking. Thus, treatment with

and flexibility in particular are

regeneration. However, the

coenzyme Q10 seems to offer

Topical Treatment

determined by the status of the

effects of permanent stresses —

promising protection against

A Japanese study led by Inui in

daily damage for healthy skin.

2008 found that coenzyme Q10

Most of the coenzyme Q10

helps to inhibit wrinkle-triggering

protection from

harmful environmental effects.

Q10 Total

175 150

R2 = 80.16% p = 0.0014

(fmol/µg)

125 100 75 50

we require is synthesized by the

agents.1 The 5-month clinical

body itself, with concentrations

trial, which was observed by

in tissues reaching a peak at

a dermatologist, tested the

around 25 years of age. But, as a

effects of using a 1% coenzyme

result of decreased biosynthesis,

Q10 cream on wrinkled skin.

coenzyme Q10 levels

Inui and collaborators showed

progressively deplete as we grow

that cytokine production in

older (Figure 1). Low levels of

keratinocytes is blocked by

Q10 are problematic because a

coenzyme Q10, resulting in the

lack of the coenzyme affects the

decrease of metalloproteinases

skin’s ability to produce collagen

that lead to wrinkle reduction.

25 0

Age (years)

100

Figure 1: Decreasing levels of coenzyme Q10 synthesis with age (U. Hoppe, et al., “Coenzyme Q10: A Cutaneous Antioxidant and Energizer,” Biofactors 9(2–4), 371–378 [1999]).

JULY/AUGUST 2012

This indicates that coenzyme Q10

ingredient’s lasting benefits for

use in skin preparations and do

indicates that oral coenzyme

may help to protect dermal fibre

skin appearance. According to

not contain any GMOs. The wide

Q10 supplementation may be

components from degradation,

the researchers, the distribution

range of potential functional

more effective in increasing

thus producing a rejuvenating

of coenzyme Q10 in the dermis

food applications for coenzyme

the level of the vitamin-like

effect. Topical treatment with

after supplementation was

Q10 illustrates the versatility

substance in the skin than topical

coenzyme Q10 thus seems

more favourable than after

of the vitamin-like substance:

preparations alone. On that

to be a very effective way of

the application of topical

from nutricosmetic drinks, dairy

basis, combined treatment can

ensuring healthy skin. Potential

preparations.

beverages and yoghurt to olive

be recommended — and given

oil and even chocolate, all of

the safety and naturalness of

topical application forms

When given in supplement

include cosmetics and skincare

form, ubiquinol, the active and

which are backed by scientific

Kaneka QH and Kaneka Q10, this

products such as facial and eye

reduced form of coenzyme Q10,

data.

will neither affect the body’s own

creams, sun creams and lotions.

has a more rapid and better

As coenzyme Q10 is an orange

effect than Q10 as it does not

powder, the colour of the cream

have to be converted to be

Combined Use for Better Effects

gives some indication of the

used in the body. Until recently,

According to Italian researchers,

amount of Q10 it contains.

it was not possible to isolate

combining topical treatment

ubiquinol for use in supplements,

and oral supplementation of

Supplementation

as it reacts very quickly with

coenzyme Q10 seems to be

Interestingly, several

oxygen. However, it is precisely

the most effective approach,

studies suggest that oral

this oxidative property that

as it may produce higher levels

supplementation with coenzyme

makes ubiquinol so valuable for

of coenzyme Q10 within the

Q10 may be as effective as

use in supplements, in which it

skin than topical preparations

topical treatment in reducing

acts as an extremely powerful

alone.3 The researchers have

wrinkle severity. In a Japanese

antioxidant. After more than 10

shown that the simultaneous

study looking at the wrinkle-

years of research, the Japanese

supplementation of coenzyme

reducing properties of coenzyme

company Kaneka succeeded

Q10, vitamin E and selenium

Q10, 8 women aged between

in developing the world’s first

together with topical coenzyme

40 and 46 were given 60 mg of

stable, bioidentical ubiquinol.

Q10 treatment effectively

coenzyme Q10 per day.2 Results

This patented product is

increases the levels of

after 2 weeks of supplementation

marketed under the brand name

coenzyme Q10 in the stratum

found that the average wrinkle

Kaneka QH and can be used in

corneum. Application of the

area had decreased by 33%,

soft gel capsules. The company

topical preparation alone, as

wrinkle volume by 38% and

also offers a coenzyme Q10,

tested in the control group,

mean wrinkle depth by 7%,

which is called Kaneka Q10. Both

raised the level of coenzyme

respectively. The impact of

Kaneka QH and Kaneka Q10 are

Q10 only in the subjects’ sebum,

coenzyme Q10 was also shown to

yeast-fermented and therefore

an oily substance produced

continue after supplementation

completely natural. Moreover,

by the skin’s sebaceous

had stopped, demonstrating the

they are allergen-free for safe

glands. This study therefore

2012 JULY/AUGUST

synthesis of coenzyme Q10 nor cause any adverse reactions.

References

1. M. Inui, et al., “Mechanisms of Inhibitory Effects of CoQ10 on UVB-Induced Wrinkle Formation In Vitro and In Vivo,” Biofactors 32(1–4), 237–243 (2008). 2. Y. Ashida, et al., “Effect of Coenzyme Q10 as a Supplement on Wrinkle Reduction,” FOOD Style 8(6), 21–26 (2004). 3. S. Passi, et al., “The Combined Use of Oral and Topical Lipophilic Antioxidants Increases Their Levels Both in Sebum and Stratum Corneum,” Biofactors 18(1–4), 289–297 (2003).

For more information Peter Lambrechts Business Development Manager Kaneka Pharma Europe NV Triomflaan 173, B-1160 Brussels Belgium. Tel. +32 2 663 0342 peter.lambrechts@kaneka.be www.kaneka.be

strap SKINCARE

Strawberry Extract for a Radiant Complexion A new cosmetic ingredient, a strawberry leaf extract, is being used to improve skin radiance. This plantorigin active is rich in polyphenols — notably, flavonoids and tannins — and brings brightness and smoothness to the skin. Its activity has been proven in several clinical and in vitro efficiency tests.

polyphenols and tannins,

leaves has been done and ten

have demonstrated that the

offering appealing applications

phenolic compounds have been

leaves are a source of ascorbic

and uses. And, increasingly,

identified (Table I).1 The flavonoids

acid and condensed tannins,

the market is demanding more

are well represented and, indeed,

famous for their astringent

plant-derived ingredients. Thus,

several flavonoid monomers

properties. The strawberry leaf

Berkem has focused its research

— catechin, epicatechin and

extract developed by Berkem

in this area. A plant extraction

epigallocatechin — have

is a fine-grained powder that’s

specialist, this French company

been found in significant

rich in flavonoid polyphenols

has developed a new extract

amounts. Procyanidin B1 and

(greater than 20%, as measured

from strawberry leaves. Using a

procyanidin B2 (procyanidolic

by the Folin-Ciocalteu method

confidential extraction process,

oligomers composed of repeated

with a gallic acid equivalent).

the researchers have created an

catechin and/or epicatechin

Flavonoids are measured using

active cosmetic ingredient with

molecules) have also been

UV spectrometry with a quercetin

a high polyphenol content. Some

identified. Flavonoids have been

equivalent at 370 nm; they

clinical tests have demonstrated

associated with astringent,

comprise more than 3%.

that the extract targets skin

antioxidant, anti-inflammatory

radiance and texture.

and vasodilator properties.

Phytochemical Composition

As a source of bioactive

easily found in the undergrowths

their phytochemical composition,

of Europe, particularly in

the leaves are an important

France, is much appreciated.

source of polyphenols. These

Also called wild strawberry or

compounds, widely distributed in

woodland strawberry, it has

the plant kingdom, are defined

always interested cosmetic

by the presence of several

formulators because of its image

phenolic groups and offer

and properties. And, as the

antioxidant, antimicrobial and

fruit is already well known and

anti-inflammatory properties.

exploited, it’s time for the leaf

A phytochemical study on

to shine. Indeed, strawberry

an aqueous extract of wild

leaves are rich in flavonoid

strawberry (Fragaria vesca L.)

he strawberry has been

compounds for the cosmetic

known for years for its

industry, strawberry leaves have

fresh, fragrant and sweet

been largely overlooked by

fruit. Fragaria vesca,

researchers. However, looking at

Moreover, other molecules have

Skin Radiance and Skin Texture

been detected, such as piceid

Cosmetic products that enhance

and astringin, and other studies

skin radiance property are very

Figure 1: Results of clinical tests to improve skin brightness and texture.

JULY/AUGUST 2012

Table I: Identified phenolic compounds in an aqueous extract of wild strawberry (Fragaria vesca L.) plant leaves (from Mudnic et al., 2009).

Compounds

(-)-Epicatechin

(+)-Catechin

Astringin

Epicatechin-3-gallate

Structures

popular. Today’s consumers want to

it a smoother texture (90%) after 28 days

combat their dull and faded skin and

of use. These results were approximately

have a luminous and even complexion.

16% better than those obtained with

An effective skin radiance product needs

the placebo. The active is soluble in

to target both skin complexion and skin

an aqueous phase, stable and easily

texture, the key components of a pretty

incorporated into a variety of formulas.

complexion. Skin radiance is determined

The capacity of the strawberry leaf

by the skin’s optical properties. Light is

extract to improve skin texture and glow

diffused and reflected on the surface

is strengthened by its antityrosinase

of the skin; some light is absorbed and

property. Tyrosinase is the key enzyme

the rest penetrates the different layers of

in melanogenesis (melanin synthesis).

the skin. It is then reflected and diffused

Tyrosinase turns L-DOPA into melanin,

by the various components of the skin,

which is responsible for skin pigmentation.

particularly by melanin. There are three

Using an in vitro test, the strawberry

important parameters for a brightened

extract has shown a dose-dependent

complexion: the surface, colour and

net inhibitory effect. At a concentration

quality of the skin.

of 0.24%, it inhibits tyrosinase activity by

Skin texture can be defined by

50%. Thus, it can brighten and even skin

skin tonicity and elasticity, pore size,

in a mild way by attenuating heavily

imperfections, etc. In many cases, skin

pigmented areas, which can darken the

texture is irregular, mainly as a result of

complexion. The extract is, therefore,

large or dilated pores that are visible to

an effective active ingredient for skin

the naked eye and rough to the touch.

brightening cosmetics and also improves

This leads to poor light reflection and a

skin texture.

dull complexion. A lack of skin radiance

Epigallocatechin

Piceid

and an irregular texture because of

Conclusion

dilated pores can be linked to the ageing

To conclude, strawberry leaves are an

process. It can also be associated

interesting natural source of flavonoid

with external factors such as a harsh

polyphenols. Berkem has developed an

environment, stress and urban pollution.

extraction process that concentrates

However, it is possible to improve skin

these bioactive compounds and a

radiance and texture by decreasing

new strawberry leaf extract with high

pore size (diameter) using tannins

polyphenol content has been obtained:

and brightening the complexion with

Fresh’ka. The efficiency of this extract has

antityrosinase enzymes.

been proved in clinical studies and an in vitro test. This cosmetic active ingredient,

Procyanidin B1

Strawberry Plant Extract Efficiency

by influencing the skin’s optical

An extract of Fragaria vesca was

and smoothes skin texture. Moreover, it

developed and tested in a face cream

gently lightens the skin as a result of its

(0.5%). For 28 days, 20 volunteers

antityrosinase properties, which directly

(20–40 year-old women) used the

act on skin pigmentation. Fresh’ka can be

cream twice a day. Skin brightness and

used in different kinds of formulas for dull

texture parameters were evaluated

skin, antiageing products and for oily skin

by clinical scoring at T0 and T28 days

with dilated pores.

properties, brightens the complexion

by a dermatologist. After 28 days, Procyanidin B2

the strawberry extract demonstrated a significantly positive effect on the measured test parameters (Figure 1). Skin radiance improved (+35%) and skin texture became smoother (+63%). As such, this extract has a strong and

Quercetin-4’-glucoside

proven ability to enhance skin texture

Reference

1. I. Mudnic, et al., “Cardiovascular Effects In Vitro of Aqueous Extract of Wild Strawberry (Fragaria vesca, L.) Leaves,” Phytomedicine 16, 462–469 (2009).

and glow. The product’s effectiveness was further evaluated by 20 volunteers and compared with the results obtained with a “placebo” cream on 20 other Trans- resveratrol

volunteers. A majority of the volunteers noted that the product containing the strawberry extract made the skin brighter (80%) and nicer looking (80%), and gave

2012 JULY/AUGUST

For more information

Anabelle Echard, Project Manager, and Julie Droux, Marketing Berkem Julie.droux@berkem.com Tel. +33 5 5363 8100 www.berkem.com

skincare strap

Skin Deep:

Introducing Medical Micropigmentation

Micropigmentation or dermatography is a subdivision of dermatological surgery and plastic surgery and refers to a process in which minute hypoallergenic particles of flesh-coloured medical-grade pigments are inserted just below the skin to minimize various medical-related disfigurements that have proven to be impervious to laser treatments. In the US, surgeons and dermatologist regularly prescribe medical micropigmentation and, recently, the first clinic to specialize in this procedure has opened in the UK.

ermInkâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Medical Director and

especially those following cancer surgery,

techniques of medical micropigmentation

leading micropigmentation

that helping to make them feel better

whilst working with some of the USâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;

specialist, Dr Theresa Bush, will

aesthetically had a hugely positive impact

leading dermatologists and surgeons,

provide the treatment at the

on their overall feeling of health and well-

including those at the department of

new north London clinic. She commented:

being. After training in Australia where I

Dermatological Surgery at Stanford

I have always believed that a patientâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s

gained my medical degree, I subsequently

University.

state of mind can have a huge impact on

moved to the US where I continued to

their general health and well-being, and

study pain management and was given

their last hope and that always represents

found that when working with patients,

the opportunity to develop the unique

a great challenge. Typically, I receive a

Figure 1a: Vitiligo before treatment

Figure 1b: Third treament

For many patients, micropigmentation is

Figure 1c: Six weeks after the fourth treatment

JULY/AUGUST 2012

referral from a dermatologist or Plastic

an initial consultation and test patch

and especially when she began to sweat.

surgeon who may well have initially

were performed, which indicated she

The treatment was performed during five

attempted laser or topical treatments

would be a suitable candidate for

sessions, each lasting approximately 90

that, owing to a variety of factors that are

micropigmentation, six custom medical

minutes (30 minutes numbing). Because of

often outside the practitioner’s control,

grade pigments were blended to match

the size of the birthmark, the procedures

may not have had the desired impact or

her natural skin tone and inserted using

were broken down into two sections, lower

success. The most difficult cases are often

needles in gauges ranging from 26 to 33

and upper face. Starting at the lower left

those when laser therapy has already

(Figure 1). Affected areas with little or no

corner of the birthmark and pigmenting

been attempted but has either proved

subcutaneous fat are more difficult to treat

small circular areas of 2–3 inches at a time,

to be ineffective or the patient’s skin has

and can be more painful for the patient.

the treatments were scheduled 6 weeks

reacted poorly to the treatment, which

Hands and feet are the most difficult area

apart (Figure 2).

can leave unsightly scars and hyper- or

to treat. These areas are subjected to a

hypopigmentation. Predominantly in dark-

great deal of wear and tear, take longer

Permanent Concealer

skinned patients, hyperpigmentation can

to heal and will require more follow up

Despite advances in treating

actually appear far worse than the original

treatments to maintain the desired colour

pigmented nevi, post-inflammatory

condition for which treatment was sought.

than other areas of the body.

hyperpigmentation, hypopigmentation,

Case Study One

Case Study Two

resist treatment. Micropigmentation can

Pooja S first presented having already

Erica P had suffered with a vascular nevus

be the solution — not curing the condition,

had several laser treatments with a

birthmark from birth that covered a large

of course, but providing a good cosmetic

very experienced dermatologist for

part of her right cheek, ear and eye. It had

result that helps to rebuild patients’

the vitiligo on her hands, which caused

been stable for many years and had been

confidence. A typical procedure begins

her great distress, impacting both her

similarly resistant to q-switched laser. She

with numbing the patient with a topical

career and social life to such an extent

would spend several hours a day applying

anaesthetic such as BLT (20% benzocaine,

that she rarely left the house following

make-up in an attempt to mask the stain,

6% lidocaine and 4% tetracaine), which is

her last unsuccessful treatment. After

but found that this would rub off on clothes

applied between 10 and 30 minutes prior

vitiligo and striae, such abnormalities can

2012 MAY/JUNE

skincare

Figure 2a: Before treatment.

Figure 2b: During the procedure.

Figure 2c: Six weeks after the fourth treatment.

to the commencement of a procedure

can begin with sessions lasting from 30

and its non-invasive nature have made

to minimize patient discomfort. In some

to 60 minutes, depending on the size

it a preferred option for many patients.

patients, an injection of lidocaine may be

and complexity of the areas requiring

The procedure does not require surgical

needed. Pigment dye is then selected from

treatment. Pigments are inserted directly

sedation or hospitalization. The procedure

a range of flesh tone medical pigments

into the subcutaneous tissue. Dye injected

may be used to treat a wide spectrum of

and mixed to match the patient’s natural

shallower than the epidermal basal layer

pigmentation conditions and diseases of

skin colour surrounding the affected

disappears in several weeks and will not

cosmetic importance. Micropigmentation

area. Predicting the colour outcome is

provide a lasting result because of the

is being used for various medical

dependent on the experience of the

regular regeneration of the epidermal

indications, such as moderate to severe

practitioner.

stem cells. The pigments are inserted into

striae, post-surgery scars (including burn

the skin in a circular pattern around the

scars, Mohs surgery scars, facelift scars

a small handheld optical device that

affected area, in a similar manner in which

and abdominoplasty scars), birthmarks

takes a reading from a colour sample and

tattoo inks are manipulated when creating

(including congenital pigmented nevi and

converts the given colour into a numerical

tattoo designs. This is why this procedure is

port wine stains), vitiligo and nipple-areola

value within the visible light range, can

often dubbed ‘medical tattooing.’

reconstruction. Micropigmentation vitiligo

A spectrocolorimeter, which is typically

assist in matching and may be utilized to

The pigments used here, however,

treatment is recommended only when the

help predict the appearance of injected

have to be metabolically inert, and

vitiligo is stable and has been resistant to

skin. A variety of instruments is used for

are different from any kind of tattooing

other therapies. People with a medical

dye placement; in most instances, needles

ink. These pigments are immune to the

history of skin problems such as active

are used. Not all patients are suitable for

biological changes in the skin or changes

acne or psoriasis are not satisfactory

micropigmentation and typically those

induced by external factors, ensuring

candidates for micropigmentation. The

presenting with psoriasis, those who have

that the original shades of the pigment

procedure is relatively easy, provides

active rashes or skin conditions such

are retained. Standard tattoo inks must

permanent camouflage and is generally

as acne are not suitable candidates

not be used; these inks have a high rate

devoid of any significant adverse effects.

for micropigmentation procedures.

of oxidation, migration and are known

However, a number of infections can

Procedures require the patient to remain

to change colour in the skin … and in

be transmitted from one patient to

relatively still throughout the process;

some instances cause severe allergic

another if the universal precautions for

therefore, children under the age of 5 are

reaction and granulomas. An aftercare

the sterilization of instruments used for

not suitable candidates.

package is given to the patient that

micropigmentation are not adhered to.

It is often impossible to predict which

includes antibiotic gel, vitamins A and D

patients will respond most favourably to

ointment as well sun cream. Procedures

the treatments and, as such, following

are scheduled 4 – 6 weeks apart.

an initial consultation, a small test patch

Owing to the highly specialized and

generally no larger than 3 mm in diameter

demanding nature of this procedure, the

can be performed. After a period of

expertise of the practitioner is critical to

between 10 –14 days, if the patch has

the end result and patient satisfaction.

responded well, micropigmentation

The immediate results of this approach,

For more information Dr Theresa Bush Medical Director DermInk Hillside Medical Centre 151 North End Road London NW11 7HT, UK. Tel. +44 845 475 9410 www.dermink.com

JULY/AUGUST 2012

Whereff d meetsPharma Pharma TO Y O BE UR TT D ER IRE BU CT SI RO N U ES T S E

NBT is your must-read source of news, updates and developments in the functional food, nutraceutical, dietary supplement and ingredient industry.

Via Communicationsâ&#x20AC;&#x2122; publication platforms bring innovative thinking, versatility and COMMUNICATIONS in-depth industry knowledge to an unrivalled audience. Using both print and digital forms we provide our readership with high quality content and valuable insights into their relevant markets.

nutraceuticalmag.com NUTRACEUTICAL

BUSINESS & TECHNOLOGY

For more information contact gillhealy@viacommsgroup.com or call +44 (0)1372 364 128

packaging

PRACTICALITY

And AESTHETICS Competitive markets and proactive new product development in the toiletries market lead to several packaging and dispensing challenges, says Mark Box, Managing Director of Rieke Dispensing.

considerable time and resource in research,

its sixties has different attitudes to ageing, and

toiletries were forecast to growth by close to

disposable income to afford premium product

10% between 2011 and 2015, with the sectors

prices. Products have also been formulated that

expected to meet the strongest growth being

target the modern ethnic mix of the population,

skincare products, followed by personal wash

developing creams, make-ups and soaps to care

and bathroom toiletries. The toiletries market

for different skin and hair colours and textures.

has always demonstrated resilience in troubled

Other influential areas of development include a

economic times and, once again, the market is

rising interest in natural and organic products, as

weathering the current recession relatively well.

well as a willingness among men to extend their

One of the reasons for this, states the report,

range of skincare and grooming products.

development and marketing, to ensure continued brand awareness and the saleability of products. Another reason for ongoing product development is that the market is still evolving and changing. For example, personal care products have traditionally been targeted at the young; and although our ageing population might therefore be considered a disadvantage, in reality it represents a business opportunity. The baby boom generation that is now reaching

ccording to Key Noteâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s Toiletries

the pressure in society to maintain a youthful

Market Report Plus 2011, the UK

appearance has generated demand for all types

toiletries market was worth ÂŁ4.5

of skin nourishment and antiageing products.

billion in 2010. Retail sales of

In addition, many of this generation have the

is that many products, such as shampoos,

The personal care industry has always thrived

soaps and deodorants are regarded as daily

on science-based innovations to generate new

essentials. However, one effect of the downturn

products. Enhancements to existing or newly

has been a change in consumer spending

developed formulations, with added ingredients

habits, with increasing numbers trading down to

or using new production technologies, are

value products. On a more positive note, some

frequent. Nevertheless, when it comes to the

consumers are purchasing premium products

products lining up on retail shelves, it is the

as they cut down on more expensive salon

packaging that more often than not has to do

treatments. The result of these different trends is

the selling. As well as shelf presence, packaging

that new product development in the sector is

must also be user-friendly and consistently

still very busy. Certainly all markets remain highly

reliable. Brand image is easily tarnished by

competitive and manufacturers therefore invest

unsuitable or poorly performing packaging. Matching aesthetics with consumer convenience is therefore essential. This is often easier said than done. New product development creates personal care products that are increasingly sophisticated or complicated and this can make them more challenging to pack and, very often, harder to access.

Lessons from Big Pharma For example, there is a wide variety of creams on the market for hands, face and body. Their thickness and viscosity can make the choice of packaging a difficult one. A traditional solution is to pack them in a jar; however,

scooping the product out by hand is not

and therefore a higher likelihood of them

very hygienic and it can be difficult to

purchasing again.

gauge the quantity of what can be an expensive product. Conversely, if using a

Image is Everything

bottle, too much residual product may be

Although practical features are very

left behind that cannot easily be removed

important, image is also a key selling point:

from the container. A pump dispenser can

and a pump dispenser does not necessarily

therefore be the ideal solution. Product can

inspire an appropriate picture when

be carefully metered and measured to a

considering beauty and personal care

specific dose; this is more hygienic, less messy

products. However, the variety of design and

and provides accurate control.

colour options means that these dispensers

Nevertheless, dispensing highly viscous creams can be problematic even when packaged using a pump dispenser. Interestingly for Rieke, a solution to this difficulty came from our

can easily become an attractive part of any pack. This is particularly important to help convey a quality image among value products. Bespoke pumps can be created to meet a specific design brief, and

work in the pharmaceutical

standard dispensers can also be tailored

sector. The Airless HVDS

to complement the look of a particular

System, which achieves up

container, such as using curved or straight

to 98% product evacuation,

designs to mirror the shape of the main pack.

was initially developed for

A variety of decoration and personalization

pharmaceutical products

options are available, including the use

such as dermatological

of colour master batches for dispenser

emollient creams. However,

components, special finishes such as

product back into the nozzle after dispensing

the dispenser’s ability to

metallizing or soft-touch materials, or the

to provide a consistently clean and hygienic

handle all types of highly

printing of brand names and messages, all of

operation and avoid mess and waste.

viscous creams, lotions and

which enable dispensers to be individualized

Tamper-evident and child resistant options

gels, means that it is now being

to specific branding requirements and create

provide added consumer security and

adopted for other applications

vital shelf impact.

reassurance. For manufacturers, production

such as hair care, spa products

The development of products such as face

and packaging efficiencies are an important

and cosmetics. The challenge

scrubs, which can include particulates, has

part of remaining price competitive. A

with high viscosity products

led to the introduction of pumps containing

universal closure or large lid adaptor can be

is that they are unable to self

strong springs and wide-bore designs to

specified to allow pumps to be used with a

level. With conventional pump

handle these lotions effectively. Organic

variety of container sizes and designs.

systems, creams and lotions

products are becoming increasingly

are drawn from the centre

popular, and this has necessitated the

outlook for the toiletries industry is positive,

of the container leaving

removal of additives and preservatives from

with the ‘necessary’ nature of its products

residue clinging to the side.

product. With this come the requirements

and a strong sense of brand loyalty among

This results in product that

for non-metal contact pumps to avoid

its customers being its strongest assets. High

cannot be accessed and

contamination and, for oxygen-sensitive

levels of new product development continue

is therefore wasted — a

products, systems that prevent air entering

to drive sales, and significant opportunities

frustrating and expensive

a container as the product is evacuated.

exist in the areas of cosmeceuticals and

predicament for the end

These are important considerations to help

green/ethical products. And in what will

consumer. To avoid this, the

preserve and extend shelf-life. In addition,

always be a competitive environment, it

Airless HVDS dispenser uses

a shower-proof construction that prevents

is essential for manufacturers to maintain

a combination of airless

water ingress is required for any type of

market share for existing brands and at the

and piston-up technology

soap, shampoo or conditioner. Another

same time seek to develop the next new

to push product up

development has been the introduction

trend and ‘must have’ product. In both

from the bottom of the

of an alternative to traditional aerosol

instances, choosing the right packaging is

container. This ensures an

technology with foamers that draw product

as important as developing the appropriate

orderly and complete

from a container and mix it with air to create

formulation. The pump dispenser provides

evacuation of product,

the foam at the point of dispense.

both practicality and aesthetics — vital

delivering a superior

Consumer convenience is an equally

performance compared

important element in any successful

with standard pumps

dispenser. A consistent and accurate dose

or follower-plate-down

is vital, and pumps also need to dispense

systems. Importantly,

with minimal effort and return quickly to their

avoiding excessive

start primed position. Shippable pumps can

product waste

be locked in the down position for ease of

presents a better

transport and, once opened, relocked in

value proposition

the up position to avoid a final unwanted

to the consumer

dose when locking. ‘Suckback’ systems pull

The Key Note report concludes that the

elements for any successful brand.

For more information John Atkin Rieke Dispensing Scudamore Road Leicester LE3 1UG, UK. Tel.+44 116 233 1100 sales@riekedispensing.co.uk www.riekepackaging.com

packaging

Packaging Sustainability Optimization, Not Minimization

Based on

Stuart Roberts, European Director of Marketing at Sealed Air, a global leader in innovative packaging solutions, talks to Pure Health Magazine and Supply Chain Europe about how companies can develop sustainable packaging processes while, at the same time, improving operational practices and reducing costs.

ith current

demand are now on the

environmentally compliant, such

and moulded foam. When

consumer

increase across Europe. This is

as that derived from renewable

considering sustainability, it

environmental

because of pressure groups and

sources.

can be easy for companies to

consciousness

consumers demanding that

purely focus on paper-based or

focusing on packaging waste,

companies do more to reduce

a number of manufacturers,

their environmental impact within

Packaging Regulations

retailers and regulators have

the beauty industry. Packaging,

Introduced in 1994, The EU

do not offer much in terms of

introduced initiatives to minimize

whether primary, secondary or

Packaging Directive specifies that

environmental compliance. This is

packaging. This is increasingly

tertiary, comes under constant

packaging volume and weight

wrong. Innovations in packaging

being proven to lead to greater

public scrutiny as it is used

must be the minimum amount

can often mean that plastic or

economic and environmental

throughout the whole supply

necessary to maintain safety,

moulded foam packaging can

impacts, and sustainability leaders

chain.

hygiene and acceptance of

offer greater environmental

the packaged product. It also

performance than paper or renewable packaging materials.

are realizing the key is to invest

Packaging performs an

renewable packaging, believing that plastic or moulded foam

in quality protective packaging

important job in terms of helping

specifies that packaging must be

solutions. As highlighted at the

to protect a product and, if

manufactured to permit reuse or

recent Sustainable Cosmetics

it is primary and secondary

recovery when packaging waste

Summit, research shows that the

packaging, helping to sell a

is disposed of. Recovery includes

Unpacking Green Performance

highest environmental footprint

product. The environmental

the recycling of packaging

Looking first at the role and

is from cosmetic packaging and

impact of a product that is

materials, separate composting

performance of their current

ingredients, which has long been

packaged is typically much

of biodegradable packaging

packaging is the only way that

a hot topic of discussion. Green

greater than the packaging

and energy recovery through

companies can truly improve

packaging developments and

itself and a product damaged

incineration. The Directive is

sustainable packaging practices.

during shipping offsets any gains

being reviewed in 2014 and it can

Furthermore, this approach can

in reducing packaging. Yet,

be assumed that the European

often help companies to realize

companies are under growing

Parliament will build on these

financial savings. If companies

specifications by introducing

evaluate the performance

further requirements for

requirements of their tertiary

companies to improve packaging

packaging and the variables

sustainability. This provides

that impact on performance

companies with a significant

requirements, they can determine

perceived to

challenge. Using less packaging

and optimize the best fit

be more

can, potentially, increase the risk

packaging solution. This will help

of product damage, although

companies to take their first step

renewable packaging can

towards improving sustainability

sometimes prove costly and

as theyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;ll be able to effectively

not always offer fit-for-purpose

reduce packaging material

product protection.

volumes, while maximizing

pressure to improve packaging efficiencies. Consumers want companies to use less packaging and packaging that is

To meet this challenge, companies should take an

product protection. An expert packaging

analytical approach when

manufacturer, such as Sealed

reviewing the role and

Air, will work in partnership

performance of their tertiary

with a company to complete

packaging. This approach should

this evaluation. Sealed Air has

include analysis of all types of

developed a unique process of

packaging material including

evaluation known as Packaging

paper, plastic, polystyrene

Value Analysis (PVA). This involves

JULY/AUGUST 2012 july/august

comprehensive testing —

packaging can be recovered

including size, volume and surface

through incineration, converted

area — of the product that will be

to transportation

packaged. PVA is completed in

fuels or recycled into

Sealed Air’s Packaging Innovation

granules that can be

Centres across Europe, and also

used to make other plastic

involves the cross-referencing of

packaging. Increasingly, new

the packaging requirements of

techniques are being used to

thousands of products from Sealed

recover plastics from the waste

Air’s central database.

stream for use as feedstock for

Sealed Air performs a number

other products. In addition, it is

of tests, in line with standards set

lightweight, extends shelf-life,

out by the International Safe Transit

ensures the fresh delivery of goods

Association (ISTA), to ensure the

and reduces the amount of overall

packaging solution will protect

waste arising from packaging.

the product in ‘real’ terms. Before

In addition, packaging

the testing procedure begins, the

innovation is leading to

packaging manufacturer to the

packaged product is weighed

the development of more

company. The superior protection

to ascertain the drop height

environmentally considerate air

provided by Instapak can help

at which the product should

filled bubble packaging. Sealed

to lower carbon emissions further

stand and the speed at which

Air launched AirCap E last year, a

as product damage is reduced

it should be vibrated. At the

barrier-sealed bubble packaging

and the need for the redelivery

Packaging Innovation Centres,

that saves up to 46% in volume

of replacement products is

and purge waste. A total systems

testing involves a vibration test.

compared with standard bubble

minimized.

approach that positively benefits

A packaged product is placed

wrap. This performance means

on a fixed vibration table and

that 46% more AirCap E bubble

Renewable Reality

operations to drive efficiencies

subjected to 14,200 impacts and

can be stored in warehouse

The fundamental role of

and business value from the plant

includes a 10-sequence drop test,

space compared with standard

packaging is to deliver the

floor to their customers’ doorsteps.

in which the product is dropped

AirCap bubble; and 46% more

product to the consumer in

Though the SmartLife approach,

on all surfaces, from its most fragile

can be transported in the same

perfect condition. Therefore, a

companies can quantify the

base corner to its largest flat face.

truck, lowering CO2 emissions by

packaging company’s primary

impact of packaging design

Once the PVA is completed,

30%. These benefits are further

role is to create the most

decisions and changes, estimate

the most effective packaging

maximized by the fact that

protective packaging possible

the contribution packaging

materials can be determined. It

AirCap E is made from completely

in the most straightforward way.

makes to a total product system

is at this stage that packaging

recyclable and reusable

Optimizing their packaging

and demonstrate the value that

manufacturers should continue to

materials — removing the need

solutions has become essential

packaging brings by reducing

work with companies to help them

for packaging to become waste

to making operational savings,

waste.

understand the full lifecycle of the

once used.

whilst also helping to protect

packaging material as well as the

Moulded foam packaging, such

efficiencies, maximize resources

multiple areas of our customers’

There are many sustainable

the environment. To improve

solutions out there that packaging

product that is being packaged.

as Sealed Air’s industry leading

sustainability, it is important that

companies can come up with to

This promotes a comprehensive

Instapak, can enable companies

companies consider the whole

utilize in the cosmetics and beauty

understanding of the actual

to realize improved sustainability

lifecycle of these packaging

industry. Key decision makers and

environmental performance of the

through reduced packaging

products to understand how

thought leaders across Europe

different packaging options.

volumes and lower carbon

environmentally compliant they

increasingly understand the

emissions during transportation.

are. This is of growing importance

value that packaging brings to

Picking the Correct Packaging

The liquid foam-based solution,

owing to the pressure of meeting

enhancing sustainability. Smart

which moulds around a product

government-set environmental

operators are taking holistic

As referenced earlier, companies

within its outer packaging, has

targets, such as Germany’s

views of how packaging within

keen to improve sustainability

been chosen by a number of

RESY regulations for paper and

the cosmetics industry can

can often be quick to discount

companies to provide blocking

cardboard packaging, and

help improve their sustainable

plastic packaging as a possible

and bracing, and cushioning for

satisfying customer needs.

practice, meaning they are able

option. This largely stems from the

products. The foam is transported

viewpoint that because plastic

in liquid form and created on-site

more closely to create the most

is not biodegradable, it cannot

by companies. This means more

premium packaging solutions,

possibly be a sustainable choice.

packaging material can be

Sealed Air has developed a new

In reality, plastic packaging has

shipped per square foot of lorry

initiative called Smartlife — shifting

a number of hidden benefits

and ship space, even before

the focus on packaging from

that offer huge advantages

the packaging is used to protect

‘minimization’ to ‘optimization.’

to the environment and to

a product and reducing the

This initiative has allowed

consumers. Following use, the

number of deliveries required

Sealed Air to work alongside its

energy component of plastic

to move packaging from the

customers to improve operational

2012 july/august

Working with customers

to meet both performance and environmental demands.

For more information

Stuart Roberts European Director of Marketing Sealed Air www.sealedairprotects.com http://sustainability.sealedair.com/ environment.aspx

PUREHealth Magazine

CompanyProfile

SYMRISE AG Muehlenfeldstrasse 1 D-37603 Holzminden Germany Tel. +49 5531 90-0 Fax +49 5531 90-1649 www.symrise.com No. of Employees: 5400 Year Founded: 2003

COMPANY DESCRIPTION Consumers worldwide share a common desire for health, beauty and well-being. At the same time, they expect natural substances and active cosmetic ingredients with premium quality. To satisfy these needs, Symrise Life Essentials offers products with distinctive values. With its range of innovative products, the division focuses on high quality cosmetic ingredients, such as actives, botanical extracts and functional products, as well as UV filters. Research and development concentrates on the company’s core competences to develop innovative ingredients that soothe irritated or itchy skin, to identify molecules with multifunctional properties — including antimicrobial activity — and ingredients that provide cooling effects to the skin or scalp and improve the skin tone. State-of-the-art technology helps to develop ingredients directly derived from nature. The range comprises 100% organic, water-soluble plant extracts. Latest Innovations • Sym3D: for fuller and more beautiful lips in just a month • SymFit 1617: triple anticellulite efficacy to fight and prevent cellulite • SymFit nat. 1750: 100% natural innovation to efficiently fight and prevent cellulite • SymOcide PS: broad spectrum parabenfree preservative blend • Hydrolite 6: multifunctional moisturizer and preservative booster for baby care products and other milder applications • Frescolat X-cool: instant, gentle, longlasting cooling sensation for the skin

28 28

• SymSol PF-3: unique PEG-free solubilizer for the solubilization of hydrophobic substances • Actipone Woods range: wood botanicals with antioxidant and smoothing properties • Extrapone Waters collection: associated with moisture and hydration for healthy, beautiful skin. SCoutech, a research-driven biotechnology co-operation, completes the portfolio of the Life Essentials business unit with superior screening and testing services. Major SERVICES • Understanding the consumer by identifying unmet consumer needs • Developing innovative products that meet consumer needs • Custumer-oriented R&D support • Application laboratories supporting customers • Global marketing • Testing services. MARKETS SERVED • Global For detailed product information, visit www.symselect.com.

JULY/AUGUST 2012

SymOcide® PS Broad-spectrum activity, effectively killing all microbes, including bacteria, yeast and mold

SymFit™ nat 1750 A 100% natural innovation to efficiently fight and prevent cellulite

SymFit™ 1617 Triple anti-cellulite efficacy to fight and prevent cellulite

Frescolat® X-cool Instant and long-lasting cooling sensation for face and body

Woods collection Wood, symbol of strength, nature and longevity, perfectly fits with modern cosmetics

SymWhite® 377 A highly efficient skin lightener

Chinese Mushrooms

Waters collection

Chinese mushrooms are used in Traditional Chinese Medicine (TCM)

Associated to moisture and hydration for healthy, beautiful skin

SymSol® PF-3

SymHelios® 1031 Cell protection – against long-term damaging effects of UVB rays and environmental pollution

Sym3DTM Fuller and beautiful lips in just a month …

A very efficient, cost-effective, colorless, odorless PEG-free solubilizer for essential oils, fragrances, active ingredients and vitamins

Hydrolite® 6 A multifunctional moisturizer and preservative booster for baby care products and other milder applications

For more information www.symselect.com www.symrise.com

PUREHealth Magazine

CompanyProfile

AMA laboratories, inc

216 Congers Road New City New York 10956 USA Tel. +1 845 634 4330 Fax +1 845 634 5565 www.amalabs.com

COMPANY DESCRIPTION AMA Laboratories, Inc. is a clinical testing laboratory devoted to the evaluation of finished cosmetic products and cosmetic ingredients. We are strategically located just a short drive north of New York City, in a modern facility that occupies approximately 35,000 square feet of laboratory and administrative space. Founded in 1984, we have extensive experience in the fields of health and beauty aids (HBA), personal care and Over-the-Counter drugs (OTCs). We specialize in the areas of protocol development, safety and efficacy testing and product demonstrations. We test sunscreens, moisturizers, wrinkle treatments, hair products, etc. AMA Laboratories, Inc. provides claim substantiation for major corporations and television networks with the use of photographic, instrumental and biophysical measurements. AMA Laboratories, Inc. is both an ISO-certified and FDA-registered facility. To simply and concisely conclude, we develop novel strategies and utilize scientific photography to provide our clients with wellcontrolled, statistically valid studies. AMA Laboratories, Inc. firmly believes that our unique process gives our clients a superior edge to ensure their success in a very competitive marketplace.

posted a brand new website with interactive capabilities for our clients. We also opened a state-of-the-art conference/presentation centre that offers our clients the highest levels of technology. AMA has further increased its attendance at industry trade shows, expos and professional meetings and plans additional growth for the future. Major Markets Sunscreens Skin moisturizers Personal care Wrinkle treatments Major Products RIPT/safety testing In vivo and in vitro SPF testing Claim substantiation Demonstration development PhotoGrammetrix matched scientific photography

Howard L. Kaminsky Director of Advertising/ Marketing Technologies, Patents, New Products AMA Laboratories, Inc. now offers in vitro sunscreen testing and has also increased its worldwide presence by establishing affiliations in South America and Asia. Specialized Services AMA Laboratories, Inc. offers clients the opportunity to have a photographic record of the studies we conduct for them. This type of scientific photography, which we call PhotoGrammetrix, is used to supplement our reports providing additional, visual documentation. Often our photographs are incorporated into the advertising and promotional campaigns of our clients to successfully market their products.

Key Personnel Gabriel J. Letizia Executive Director David R. Winne Technical Director Ed Leonard Global Sales Manager

Special Studies AMA Laboratories, Inc. has just installed a new, state-of-the-art environmental chamber to conduct antiperspirant studies. We have also expanded our in-vitro sunscreen testing facility, as well as our claim substantiation and matched scientific photography capabilities, which we call PhotoGrammetrix. New for 2012, AMA Laboratories, Inc. has just

JULY/AUGUST 2012

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CompanyProfile HYDRIOR AG

Schwimmbadstrasse 35 CH-5430 Wettingen Switzerland T. +41 56 426 7474 F. +41 56 426 1676 info@hydrior.ch www.hydrior.com No. of Employees: 50 Year Founded: 1946

company DESCRIPTION Since its inception in 1946, Hydrior AG has been a competitive force in the surfactant industry, supplying high quality surfactants to a wide range of businesses and industries. Hydrior manufactures and markets anionic and non-ionic surfactants, including sulfatation and esterification products. Blending more than six decades of experience with modern technology and professional management, Hydrior delivers quality and satisfaction to a growing base of customers, both in Switzerland and around the world. MAJOR PRODUCTS Our broad and diverse portfolio of surfactants for personal care and household formulations includes such well recognized brands as • HYDRIOL specialty non-ionic surfactants (esterification products)

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• EcoCert approved polyglycerol esters as W/O emulsifiers, O/W emulsifiers, solubilizers and thickeners • Fatty acid-PEG-esters based on oleic acid and coconut fatty acid as O/W emulsifiers, solubilizers and thickeners • Fatty acid alkanolamides as foam boosters, thickeners and refatting agents. HYDRIOSUL specialty anionic surfactants (sulfatation products) • Fatty alcohol sulfates • Fatty alcohol ether sulfates • Glycol sulfates. FACILTIES Our production facility includes stainless steel and glass-lined reactor vessels with different capacities. Our primary devotion to achieve enhanced customer service, on-time

delivery and consistent quality is the key to our success. CUSTOMER SERVICE We offer our customers years of product application experience: experience that is essential in selecting the ideal emulsifier or solubilizer for the customer’s cosmetics formulations so that they can manufacture products to suit their budget and quality requirements. MARKETS SERVED Hydrior has a sales office in Switzerland. Besides our sales teams, we also have a large group of local distributors in Europe and around the world. So, if you’d like to discuss your needs with a local representative, please check out our distributor list on www.hydrior.com.

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CompanyProfile

flavex naturextrakte gMbh

7, Nordstrasse, D-66780 Rehlingen Germany Tel. +49 6835 9195 0 Fax +49 6835 9195 95 info@flavex.com www.flavex.com No. of Employees: 49 Year Founded: 1986

company DESCRIPTION FLAVEX is an independent company and market leader in the supercritical CO2-extraction of botanicals. All products are developed, produced and certified at the companyâ&#x20AC;&#x2122;s site in Germany, near the borders of France and BeNeLux. FLAVEX serves the food, cosmetic, perfumery, aromatherapy and nutraceutical industries worldwide with innovative high quality flavours, fragrances and bioactive ingredients. EXTRACTION TECHNOLOGY Supercritical extraction is a gentle, natural and clean method that works with pressurized carbon dioxide. The process eliminates germ count and solvent residue problems, and functions without the stress of high temperatures and without oxygen. The method also conforms to organic production criteria. Using 4000 square metres of office, lab, production and storage space, FLAVEX handles roughly 1000 tons of

different plant materials per year. All extraction plants are equipped with state-of-the-art control systems and the best equipment for providing reproducible results and validated products.

various specialty oils, flavouring extracts, antioxidants and products with antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory or other bioactive properties from almost 100 different botanicals. The company is committed to fostering a constructive and trustful working relationship with industrial clients; our qualified members of staff are motivated to act not only as suppliers but as partners and advisers.

PRODUCT QUALITY Aside from its technological expertise in supercritical extraction, FLAVEX has long-term experience in selecting high grade botanicals, and comprehensive know-how in phytochemistry and analysis using up-to-date instrumentation. The detailed and traceable documentation of all our processes validates product purity, consistency and authenticity. FLAVEX offers

JULY/AUGUST 2012

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CompanyProfile lipotec HEADQUARTERS

Isaac Peral, 17 E-08850 Gavà, Barcelona, Spain T. +34 936 388 000 F. +34 936 389 393 commercial@lipotec.com www.lipotec.com

active ingredients, enhancing their stability and bioavailability.

COMPANY DESCRIPTION Since 1987, Lipotec has specialized in the research, design and production of innovative active ingredients for the development of novel cosmetic strategies. Quality research, innovation and scientific rigor are Lipotec’s core values. This, together with a thorough overhaul of the company’s know-how platforms (molecular cosmetics and delivery systems) and the continual investment in advanced techniques (combinatorial chemistry, functional genomics and biotechnology), allows Lipotec to be one of the outstanding suppliers of cosmetic active ingredients worldwide while contributing to the success of our partners. Our Product Brands AIMTEC From science to cosmetics Peptides and organic molecules developed to reach, stimulate, inhibit or compete with specific targets. BIOINTEC Marine biotechnology for sustainable cosmetics Novel actives ingredients achieved through biotechnological techniques while preserving the environment. μFILMTEC Microfluidization, a cosmetic fact Molecular films that are more occlusive, minimizing TEWL and enhancing the release of the active ingredients into the skin. VECTORTEC Vectorization, the right delivery system for the desired application Delivery systems for the controlled release of

JULY/AUGUST 2012

INSIDETEC Beautiful skin from the inside out Innovative ingestible formulations for nutricosmetics; an in-and-out approach for a greater cosmetic benefit. QUIOTEC From textile fibres to the skin Delivery systems especially developed for cosmetotextiles and suitable for all types of textile fabrics. OUR RECENT LAUNCHES An innovative peptide directed at attenuating feelings of discomfort and itching that characterizes a sensitive skin while helping to recover its physiological tolerance threshold: DELISENS. An active ingredient of marine origin achieved through biotechnological techniques, with excellent anti-wrinkle properties, with special efficacy in decreasing

the depth of nasogenian folds in only two weeks; HYANIFY. A novel peptide specially developed to treat the appearance of facial erythema and telangiectasia caused by an exaggerated inflammatory response. TELANGYN. Our Global Capabilities We have a strong presence through a wellconnected network of distributors worldwide and subsidiaries in Germany, France, Italy, Australia and the USA. Their functional and technical expertise ensures that customers receive the most effective support.

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CompanyProfile

LONZA PERSONAL CARE 70 Tyler Place, South Plainfield New Jersey 07080 USA Tel. +1 908 561 5200 Fax +1 618 258 6808 lonzapc.arch@lonza.com www.lonza.com No. of Employees: >1000 Year Founded: 1897

COMPANY DESCRIPTION Lonza Personal Care is a business unit within Lonza’s Microbial Control sector, the world’s largest microbial control solutions provider. Headquartered in Basel, Switzerland, Lonza is a leading supplier to the life science, pharmaceutical and healthcare industries. Lonza Personal Care is a comprehensive solution provider committed to the next generation of personal care products. Our portfolio includes biotechnological actives, delivery systems, proteins, botanicals, preservation systems, antidandruff agents and functional ingredients. As the solution provider for a broad range of personal care needs, our services extend from product development to formulation expertise. Additionally, we offer customized functional innovations including microbial and plant cell fermentation as well as natural and certified organic products. Lonza’s

product stewardship initiative and regulatory expertise support our entire product portfolio. Sustainability and natural sourcing are at the core of our new product development process. markets served Personal care, skincare, hair care, preservatives, colour cosmetics and antidandruff. Major Markets • Antiageing skin care • Colour cosmetics • Body care • Hair and scalp care • Shower and bath products. SPECIALIZED SERVICES We pride ourselves on working directly with our customers in the creation of exclusive active ingredients to address their specific

product needs. Additionally, our Applications Lab is able to assist our customers with all aspects of product formulation.

JULY/AUGUST 2012

PUREHealth Magazine

CompanyProfile AAKO BV

PO Box 205 NL-3830 AE Leusden the Netherlands T. +31 3 3494 8494 F. +31 3 3494 8044 info@aako.nl www.aako.nl No. of Employees: 35-45 Year Founded: 1945

company DESCRIPTION Aako was founded in 1945 and established itself as a distributor of specialty chemicals in Europe, North Africa and the Middle East. Through consistent investment in its employees during these 65 years, it has become synonymous with “chemistry with people.” MAJOR PRODUCTS Sun Care We would like to distinguish ourselves as a distributor of UV filters by offering suntan lotion manufacturers in Europe the best price:quality ratio and a guaranteed and stable delivery service. Great importance is attached to the need for proper protection against sunlight and European regulations impose strict requirements on suntan lotion products. Our UV filters conform to this development and aim to contribute to the manufacture of safe suntan lotions for consumers. With our range of AakoSun UV filters and related ingredients, we provide a complete package for the formulation of sunscreens: • Organic UV filters: Octocrylene, butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl triazone, ethylhexyl salicylate, benzophenone 3 and 4 and others • Inorganic UV filters: Titanium dioxide with different coatings • Auxiliary raw materials: C12–C15 alkyl benzoate, dihydroxyacetone, potassium cetyl phosphate and others.

JULY/AUGUST 2012

AakoSun UV filters offer a complete range for solar protection. MARKETS SERVED Our expertise and customer-orientated services around the globe in sales and marketing, logistics, product development, regulatory affairs and finance has helped us to secure long-term close co-operations with many global suppliers and customers. Aako offers specialized expertise in meeting customer demands, and we offer so much more than just chemicals — both now and in the future — based on our values of “chemistry with people.” Our partners include suppliers and customers with whom we enter into long-term relationships. Our market position is based on three pillars: • High-quality service • Long-term relationships with our business partners and with each other as Aako colleagues • A thorough knowledge of specific industries, products and regional markets.

Natural Ingredients

Making the Most OF THE ‘Tree of Life’

Like many wonder ingredients from the natural world that find their place in personal care products, modern medicines, food and beverages, baobab oil has a unique and fascinating story of origin that is waiting to be told. Here, Earthoil uncovers the truth behind the baobab fruit’s legend and explains how its oil is now being sustainably sourced and has become a key component in both organic and conventional natural hair and skincare products around the world. support the rejuvenation and renewal of

reducing hair breakage and regenerating

Baobab oil, taken from the fruit of the

cell membranes and vitamin E is a superior

hair follicles.

iconic baobab tree — often referred to as

antioxidant that helps to defend the skin

the tree of life because of its wide-ranging

against the signs of ageing. Baobab oil is

From Legend to Reality

medicinal, nutritional and cosmetic benefits

also used to alleviate the pain of burns,

These numerous benefits to health and

— has been used for centuries by African

reduce acne-derived scarring and heal

well-being mean that baobab oil can add

women to protect their hair and skin against

scars and stretch marks. The moisturizing

real value to body creams, lotions, bath oils,

the harsh climate. Like many traditions that

properties of the oil also help to improve

massage products and cosmetics. Earthoil

predate modern scientific research, this

the condition of hair. Its vitamins A, E and

has been sourcing baobab oil for more than

use of the fruit of the baobab tree would

F help to soothe itchy and irritated scalps,

10 years — originally sourcing the seeds

Nature Knows Best

only have endured if it had provided real

from the Zambezi valley but more recently

benefits. Other more fantastical folklore that

from the Kenyan coastal plains. Generally,

surrounds the baobab tree may also have

baobabs are hand-harvested in remote

some foundation in truth. In West Africa, it

regions and the fruit is most often collected

is believed that spirits inhabit the flowers

by rural collection groups. These collection

and will attract a lion should anyone pluck

groups harvest the large seed pods in local

them. In Zambia, washing baobab seeds

forests and then remove the seeds from the

in nearby rivers offers protection against

‘cream of tartar’ style pulp that surrounds

crocodiles and in Southern Nigeria, the tree

them. Earthoil cold presses this very hard

is worshipped as a fertility symbol: people

seed at its Kenyan processing facility to

still get married beneath its branches today.

produce a golden oil.

Moisturizing Properties Baobab oil is thought to improve the elasticity of the skin and encourage the regeneration of skin cells. It is rich in vitamin A, D, E, F, oleic acid, linoleic acid and omega-3, -6 and -9 fatty acids, contributing to its moisturizing, emollient and soothing properties. Vitamins A and F specifically

For more information

Hugo Bovill Treatt plc Northern Way Bury St Edmunds IP32 6NL, UK. Tel. +44 1284 702 500 hugo.bovill@treatt.com www.treatt.com

Earthoil Offers Cherry Seed Oil for Finer Complexions

Earthoil plc, a specialist in pure, organic, fair trade essential and cold-pressed vegetable seed oils, has added cherry seed oil to its portfolio of products for cosmetics applications. Rich in vitamins and antioxidants, organic cherry seed oil provides natural, effective hydration, making it a valuable addition in a variety of skincare products. Oil from the kernel of the sour cherry (also known as tart cherry) is already popular in lip balms, moisturizing creams for face and body and is a key ingredient in many successful antiageing ranges thanks to its proven antioxidant effects and ability to rid the skin of dead cells. Especially beneficial to acne-prone or inflamed skin, the vitamins and nutrients contained within the fruit are known to play an important role in collagen synthesis and skin healing processes. Slightly viscous, yellow in colour with a hint of marzipan, the oil’s principal components are oleic acid, linoleic acid and alpha eleostearic acid. Easy to incorporate into a variety of cosmetic and personal care applications, sour cherry seed oil can be used in soaps, creams, balms, lotions and tonics. Earthoil sources its organic sour cherry from Malatya in central Turkey, where cherries are consumed largely in the form of juice. Earthoil purchases the otherwise obsolete cherry kernels from the small-scale cherry farmers. Once cleaned and dried, the kernels are then cold pressed at Earthoil’s organic and fair-trade certified vegetable oil plant in Kenya to produce oil of Prunus cerasus. Supply is sustainable and customers are guaranteed standardized oil of one variety. Cherry seed oil is the latest addition to Earthoil’s range of fully organically and fair trade certified vegetable seed oils (www.earthoil.com).

JULY/AUGUST 2012

D EE EN OW FR T N AT ER T TO IS EG R

Discover a world of innovation in ingredients and raw materials for Nutraceuticals I Functional foods Functional drinks I Dietary supplements Media & Association Supporters

• Meet over 150 international ingredients and raw materials suppliers • See the New Products Zone featuring over 75 of the latest innovations • Attend over 25 free seminars • Learn about market and trend forecasts from Vitatrend • Hear free keynote presentations • Receive free Regulatory Advice from EAS • Find new products to distribute in the Finished Products Zone • Gain market insights from Mintel • Debate the issues at the Vitafoods Asia Discussion Forum Supported by

Organised by

And much more...

last word

Topical Probiotics

Rev Up

A decade ago, the term probiotic meant nothing to the average consumer. Today, not only do 86% of people know what it means, many also associate it with good health. As awareness of these good bacteria grows, so do sales. Last year, consumers spent more than $20 billion on probiotic supplements and foods and beverages enriched with friendly bacteria. As probiotics hop aisles at the grocery store, from the dairy case to the supplement section to the centre aisle, personal care is poised to be the next target market.

robiotics are defined by the World

Cleveland-based Ganeden Biotech is

In addition to results measured clinically

Health Organization as living micro-

known for its proprietary probiotic strain

using a cutometer and a silicone replica,

organisms, or good bacteria, which,

for food, GanedenBC30, which can

subjects’ self assessment reports found that

when administered in adequate

endure heat, cold, pressure and doesn’t

75% reported the following: “The dark circles

amounts, confer a health benefit on the

require refrigeration. Bonicel is produced

under my eyes are less visible.” Also, 75% of

host. Topical probiotics were brought into

naturally during the fermentation process of

the treatment group reported that “The skin

the beauty market several years ago by new

GanedenBC30. Ganeden utilizes proprietary

around my eyes feels more moisturized.”

companies and heavy hitters such as Clinique,

processes to optimize the metabolic activity

Bonicel can be used in lotions, creams, gels,

which debuted its Clinique Medical line in

of the fermenting organism, producing

powders, scrubs, masks and cleansers. Unlike

2008 (it has since been discontinued). Yet, the

maximum amounts of naturally derived L-(+)-

most probiotic ingredients included in topical

thorn in the side of these “probiotic” products

lactic acid, bacteriocins, hydrogen peroxide,

formulations, Bonicel is easy to include in

has been a lack of research. “In recent years,

enzymes and other metabolites. A science-

formulations, is naturally derived from the well-

we have watched companies launch so-

backed company, Ganeden launched

documented probiotic strain GanedenBC30

called probiotic topical products without any

Bonicel with good clinical data in hand. The

(Bacillus coagulans GBI30, 6086) and is shelf-

data to support their safety or efficacy,” says

double blind, placebo-controlled study,

stable for up to 3 years.

Sean Farmer, Ganeden Biotech’s founder and

conducted on 24 female subjects (aged

Chief Science Officer.

35–60) found dramatic results in reducing the

for ingredients such as Bonicel as companies

“Manufacturers should be on the look out

“If you are going to introduce a new

signs of ageing. In subjects at 4 weeks, Bonicel

develop better solutions for cold processing

product, you really have to demonstrate

increased skin hydration by 16%, skin elasticity

and other formulation techniques that keep

benefits and claims through some sort of

by 11%, and decreased fine lines and wrinkles

active ingredients functional in topicals,”

clinical studies, and many gloss over those

in 50% of respondents.

Fiedler says. “You used to have to use really

details,” adds Molly Fiedler, chemist

heavy emulsifiers and that has changed as

and product formulator. Ganeden

we’ve figured out ways to create products

is doing just that with its newest

using lower temperatures. We are still learning

ingredient, Bonicel, a probiotic-

how probiotics can benefit the skin. We

derived ingredient for topical

do know that many micro-organisms that

antiageing products. “We are

naturally reside on the skin are friendly and

excited to be able to add

beneficial and combat the inflammation that

Bonicel to our branded

causes premature ageing and wrinkling, just

ingredient portfolio. We

as they benefit inflammation in the gut,” she

have been watching the

added.

cosmeceutical space for several years and think the time is right to introduce a scientifically backed, patented and branded ingredient into this important market,” says Michael Bush, Ganeden’s Vice President of Business Development.

For more information

Michael Bush Vice President of Business Development Ganeden Biotech, Inc. 5915 Landerbrook Drive, Suite 304 Mayfield Heights, Ohio 44124, USA. Tel. +1 440 229 5200 www.ganedenlabs.com/www.bonicelforbeauty.com

JULY/AUGUST 2012

PENTAVITIN速 Feel deep hydration for 72 hours DSM Nutritional Products Europe Ltd. P.O. Box 2676, 4002 Basel Switzerland Phone: +41 61 815 7777 Fax: +41 61 815 7860 Email: marketing.dnpe@dsm.com www.dsmnutritionalproducts.com

PENTAVITIN速 with its unique affinity to skin ensures instant, deep hydration by generating a moisture reservoir that lasts for 72 hours after last application. Consumer test panel confirms more than a 50% reduction in flakiness and itchiness caused by dry skin. PENTAVITIN速 is the first soothing active for hair care rinse-off products developed to deeply hydrate the scalp and relieve its sensitivity. PENTAVITIN速 is both ECOCERT approved and NATRUE certified.