The Kilkenny Observer Friday 13 May 2022
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Travel & Leisure Sicily enjoys an unusually complex cultural mosaic for such a small, ravishing, island and some of the best hotels in the Med. Yet among its vast array of food, art, religion and architecture lies a fiercely unified identity – one that separates it from mainland Italy and makes it endlessly alluring. Sicily’s best hotels reflect this curious blend of unity and variance – each whispering a different tale of conquest and confrontation, all honouring their extraordinary natural surroundings and offering sweet breakfast feasts of cannoli, granita and brioche con tuppu. From 18th-century palaces salvaged from Palermo’s crumbling splendour to porous, time-warp rooms inhaling the Aeolians’ salty Tyrrhenian air, here are the best hotels in Sicily. 5. Monaci Delle Terre Nere Agriturismo trailblazer, Monaci Delle Terre Nere, remains one of Sicily’s smartest and most stylish country hotels. The faded grandeur of its main house (a carefully renovated 17thcentury monastery) is as magnetic as Etna herself, whose fertile slopes are combed with olive groves, apricot trees, herb gardens and vines. The volcano’s mystic presence looms over a scatter of 27 design dens, renovated old-meets-new barns and villas which blink out over a bucolic scene of rolling hills that greet the sea. This go-slow, soulnourishing estate leverages its 60-acres of organic harvest for its destination restaurant, Locanda Nerello, where scabbardfish ragout, ancient courgettes parmigiana and various Italian classics allow the superb ingredients to take the lead. Breakfasts are as equally thrilling – expect fresh, scrambled eggs sprinkled in wildflowers from the farm and black bee honey drizzled on homemade Sicilian bread using ancient Forget the classic European highlights, and instead look to planning a summer holiday that explores the hidden gems of the European continent. Here are seven underrated European cities that have unmatched cuisine, history, and cultural experiences for lower prices. And, there won’t be more tourists than locals in these destinations. 7. Malmö, Sweden Many travellers head to Sweden to explore the capital city Stockholm or take in the charm of Gothenburg. But the hidden gem of the country is the Southeastern city of Malmö. It’s close to Copenhagen, making it ideal for combining with a trip to Denmark and northern Germany. Malmö is a coastal city with plenty of shops and cafes for travellers to enjoy. The central square called Lilla Torg is one of the most picturesque areas in the city.
cleverly pull the clementine trees indoors. This is one of Sicily’s lesser-known hotels, a favourite with Italians wrapped in fluffy towels, oscillating between spa and pool (sliced into volcanic rock with contemporary finesse), before tucking into Guiseppe Raciti’s signature uovo poche croccante and soul-stirring pasta plates. Address: Zash Country Boutique Hotel, Strada Provinciale 2 I-II N60, 95018, Riposto, Sicily Italy Website: zash.it Price: From £158
5 of the best hotels in Sicily
grains. Afternoons heed the famously Sicilian Il Dolce Hotel address: Monaci delle Terre Nere, Via Monaci, Via Pietralunga, sn, 95019 Zafferana etnea CT, Italy Website: monacidelleterrenere.it Price: From around €250 4. Hotel Signum Just below Naples and above the scruffy Sicilian port of Milazzo lies a guarded Italian secret: a scattering of volcanic islets cast adrift in a sea too blue and too warm for the Mediterranean. Salina is one of them, a go-slow mass of lush, herb-covered slopes and sun-soaked hills, drifting away from its volcanic neighbours. Clinging to the foot of one of its volcanoes and occupying the old, pretty bones of a fishing village, Hotel Signum lures in a smart, understated crowd. Dazzling, Mediterranean sunshine sieves through a wild tangle of lemon trees, honeysuckle and jasmine, animating a nostalgic scene of chipped shutters, cast-iron furniture
and elaborate cocktails. Rooms recall an 18th-century novelist’s genteel bolthole with mahogany furniture decorating a simple, Sicilian tile canvas and cut-work white curtains swelling in the breeze. They share the same otherworldly views across the Tyrannian to Panarea and Stromboli’s coils of smoke as the terrace, where refined suppers of sea urchin with creamy mash potato and breaded scabbardfish with tiger milk showcase the island’s land-and-sea bounty and Signum owners’ daughter, Martina Caruso wild creativity (the youngest Italian chef to receive a Michelin star). Hotel Address: Hotel Signum, via Scalo, 15, 98050 Malfa, Salina, Italy Website: hotelsignum.it Price: From €180 3. Villa Igiea, Palermo Palermo’s dishevelled honeyhued maze laments its golden age of lavish operas, fabulous parties and vast, aristocratic palazzos. One of them was
7 hidden gems in Europe 6.Riga, Latvia The Baltics aren’t as frequently traveled as many of the countries in Western Europe and Southeastern Europe. However, they have a rich history that is prevalent in the incredible architecture and delicious food. Located in the northwest
of the continent, Riga is the capital of Latvia. It sits on the Baltic Sea and has a beautifully preserved Old Town with pedestrian-only streets. The Old Town is where visitors can find Livu Square, a lively location for enjoying restaurants, bars, and clubs.
Villa Igiea, a palm-framed, resplendent beauty built in 1900 for the wealthy Florrio family. Its Art Nouveau soul was recently stirred with Olga Polizzi and Paolo Moschino’s clever old-meets-new design dialogue. This new Rocco Forte chapter saw Villa Igiea’s chandelier-antique-frescoed good looks welcome modern furniture and elegantly pared back decorations with the same warmth as they once did Europe’s Beau Monde, from Sophia Loren to Queen Victoria. Its grand 2019 opening signals Palermo’s wider renaissance, one of the same creative flavour that filled Athens’ ancient bones a decade ago. One that is also manifest in the new authors’ contemporary rendition of classicism and commitment to locality, from the fritti and pasta ingredients to artworks nodding to the island’s striking natural beauty. Address: Villa Igiea, Via Belmonte, 43, 90142 Palermo PA, Italy Website: roccofortehotels.com Price: Doubles from €300
2. Zash Boutique Hotel and Spa Wrapped in acres of labyrinthine citrus groves beneath looming Mount Etna, Zash Boutique Hotel & Spa was once the summer retreat for Catania’s nobility and now thrusts guests back to a time where nature called the shots, through a contemporary prism, as one of the best hotels in Sicily. Honouring its past life as a Palmento, the cool innards of the main house (a peachy, peeling vestige of grand Sicily) now pose as a smart, destination restaurant, below it, a dimly lit spa gurgles and steams, echoing the volcanic surroundings. Rhythms are docile, set by shifting fruit trees and occasionally interrupted by the rumble of the train (worth booking a room that doesn’t back onto the track). Lava stone slabs line the walls in Iraci Architetti’s photogenic Iconic Rooms and Poolside Villas, whose cubic, glass structures and sharp furniture greatly contrast the main house’s soft antiquity, and
5. Porto, Portugal Portugal is a popular destination in Western Europe, but many travellers find themselves in the capital city of Lisbon or the Brit’s favourite holidayspot, Faro. For those visiting Portugal in the summer who want to avoid droves of tourists, consider heading northwest to the coastal city of Porto instead. Porto is worth visiting for the Old Town alone, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site along the Douro River. The Old Town has a 2,000-year-old history and offers scenic views of the water.
Europe’s trade industry. The architecture of the city is breathtaking with castles and cathedrals for travellers to admire and photograph. Every Friday there is a market in Ghent (called Vrijdagmarkt) with tons of stalls to explore. It’s the perfect way to spend an evening getting a taste of the local food and drink.
4, Ghent, Belgium Travellers may bypass Ghent in favour of Brussels or Bruges, but they’re missing out. It’s a university town making it a lively city with lots of restaurants, bars, and exciting nightlife. This port city is in the northwest of the country and has historically been an important part of
3. Ljubljana, Slovenia Ljubljana, Slovenia’s capital, is easy to explore by foot, where you can experience its charming streets and historic buildings, such as the famous Ljubljana Castle. This city has abundance of cafes and vintage shops, colourful buildings, and bikes scattered quite literally all over the place. 2. Plovdiv, Bulgaria Bulgaria is gaining traction as a tourist destination, but travellers might not realise that the best part of this beautiful country isn’t necessarily the
1. Dimora Delle Balze An abandoned 19th-century castle just north of the baroque town of Noto seems an unusual birthday present – but following a scrupulous nine-year restoration project, Elena Lops now shares the joy, along with the discerning eye of interior designer Draga Obradovic. The estate’s masseria soul remains fully intact, its freckled grey walls and earthy, tiled rooms blending seamlessly into the surrounding prairie-like scrub and lush, rolling woodlands. Sun-dappled courtyards decorated with wrought iron day beds and large terracotta pots lead into pared-down pastel-hued bedrooms, more courtyards, and a light-filled dining room where local cheeses, meats, apricot pastries and brioche spill across a farmhouse table for breakfast. This is savoured on a weathered stone terrace, with views of Val di Noto’s gold and green haze framed by disfigured classical columns salvaged from the abandoned estate. Even the pool area seems to have seized upon the organic theme – where moonlight toys with the water’s tar-like ripples in the evening as diners drizzle focaccia generously with the estate’s own olive. Address: Dimora Delle Balze, SS287, Noto SR, 96017, Italy Website: dimoradellebalze. com Price: Doubles from €125 capital city. While most flights land in Sofia, it’s best to drive or take the train a couple of hours to the second-largest city, Plovdiv. Plovdiv is extremely picturesque with cobbled, winding streets, a wellpreserved old town, and a beautiful hilly landscape. 1. Tbilisi, Georgia Georgia is a lesser-known country in the Caucuses in Eastern Europe. It has a soviet past and as a result, there are a lot of historical sites to visit and learn from. Besides being off the beaten path, and providing a more local travel experience, Tbilisi is a vibrant city with amazing food, markets, and kind people. Georgians are known for their hospitality and frequently welcome travellers into their homes for a meal. The euro stretches further there than in other parts of Europe because Georgia has its own currency and doesn’t use the Euro.
