VENU #40 FALL 2018

Page 33

APPETITE:

Bites

1. Hijacked BBQ, Bobby Q’s Cue & Co. 2. County Fair Bacon, Peaches Southern Pub & Juke Joint 3. Salmon Summer Role, Beach House SoNo 4. Wood-fired Fajita, Evarito’s Mexican Kitchen & Bar

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FOOD INNOVATION A Break from the Mundane

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Written by Linda Kavanagh

WHAT’S IN A MENU? Ideally, it’s a virtual road

papaya-meets-hearts of palm-meets-pine-

map of a chef’s culinary travels or a glimpse

apple textured fruit a slathering of their

into someone’s food culture. It’s sometimes a

signature BBQ sauce and stacks the mock

treasure chest of ideas – the good, the bad,

pulled pork with slaw and avocado between

and sometimes the outlandish. Ultimately,

a bun to create a hearty sandwich. Enjoyed

a menu will peak our curiosity, satisfy all

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of our senses, and have us wanting more.

with the sweet background smell of real pitsmoked BBQ ribs, chicken, and brisket that

When was the last time you were wowed by

Bobby Q’s is known for, herbivores may find

a dish? We ventured into the eclectic dining

A welcome newcomer, Evarito’s Mexican

scene of one of Connecticut’s most vibrant

Kitchen & Bar, is making quite a splash,

food destinations, Norwalk, CT, eating our

turning south of the border cuisine on its head

Satisfying our initial visual food sense is a

way through this coastal community with our

with the addition of a-typical ingredients and

favorite guilty pleasure. It’s the moment you

eyes, noses, taste buds, and an open mind.

creative preparations. Evarito’s grown-up ver-

realize that something sensational is about

themselves in a quandary.

sion of fajitas come in the form of wood-fired

to happen. It’s the work of art on the plate

Peaches Southern Pub & Juke Joint graces

garden vegetables which includes whatever

that seems almost too beautiful to disturb.

the Wall Street neighborhood with their

is seasonally fresh and flavorful such as beets,

Beach House SoNo, a globally inspired

Low-country inspired cuisine and fearless take

jicama, broccoli, cauliflower, and squash,

seafood-centric restaurant pays homage

on southern favorites. Because it’s always a

accompanied by wood-grilled jumbo shrimp

to the owner’s Japanese heritage and

pork “thang”, and deep fried foods make

and steak. A marbling of blue and yellow corn

restaurant background with their beautifully

us happy, the County Fair Bacon is a joy to

masa tortillas are house made and serve as a

constructed salmon summer role. Stained-

partake in. Crazy large chunks of smoky slab

delicious vessel for the meat and vegetables,

glass in appearance, bright orange salmon,

bacon are skewered and bathed in funnel

dolloped with cilantro crema and salsa roja.

crisp white cucumber, fresh avocado, and

cake batter, golden fried, and then laced with

fiery red tobiko are wrapped in clear rice

cracked pepper maple syrup and a sprinkling

Call it trendy, vegan-friendly, or healthy,

paper, providing a window into the colorful

of Aleppo pepper. The outer crust cradles the

jackfruit is popping on menus across the

mélange of ingredients. Instagram worthy

melted bacon fat, presenting a juicy (messy)

country. Its faux-meat like quality and mild

and delicious too!

burst of flavor when bitten into. The end result

flavor make it prime for numerous interpre-

is sinfully satisfying and easily addictive.

tations. Bobby Q’s Cue & Co. gives this

For more information visit Norwalknow.org CONTEMPORARY CULTURE//MAGAZINE

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