UPPER LOIRE WINES
Domaine des Pothiers 2014 Nº6 Gamay Cote Roannaise AC, France $24.99 Joseph Mellot 2015 La Chatellenie Sancerre Loire Valley IGP, France $32.99
names to know here include Sancerre and Pouilly-Fumé, regions both renowned for the archetypal Sauvignon Blanc wines. Refreshingly crisp with subtle flavours of gooseberry, nettles, citrus and a flinty mineral note, many regard these wines as the variety’s best examples. Other high-quality regions to watch for include MenetouSalon, Quincy, and Reuilly. Smart shoppers can score great examples of Sauvignon Blanc from these less famous neighbouring regions. Bright, fresh, and elegant examples of reds crafted from Pinot Noir and Gamay can also be found in Sancerre, for those that know to look. Travelling down river we reach the region referred to simply as the Middle Loire. It is here that the Loire’s true level of complexity shines through. Countless appellations, grape varieties, and wine styles dot the varied geological landscape. Years of study could be devoted to truly understanding this complex region, but for the everyday consumer, it helps to know that this is the land of Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc. While other grape varieties exist, and lend themselves to a myriad of wines, Chenin Blanc and Cabernet Franc dominate the reputation of the region. Chenin Blanc is a white grape variety that reaches its apogee in this region of the Loire. Depending on where it is grown and the style the winemaker is aiming for, Loire Chenins range from crisp and appley to honeyed and tropical. From the dry, dense, rich, and ageworthy examples of Savennières, to the honeyed dessert wines of Coteaux du Layon, to the sparkling Crémant de Loire, it is in this region that Chenin shows its true colours as one of the world’s most versatile grape varieties. Within the Middle Loire also lies the slightly better known yet confusing region of Vouvray. Again we have Chenin
MIDDLE LOIRE WINES
Domaine de la Treille 2015 Thibault Henrion Cabernet Franc Anjou, Loire Valley $14.99 Domaine du Salvard 2014 Delaille Blanc Cheverny, Loire Valley $21.99 Domaine Loizeau Le Clain 2015 Les Tuloires Coteaux de l’Aubance, Loire Valley $22.99 Château d’Epiré 2014 Savennières, Loire Valley $28.99
Blanc to thank for the wines of Vouvray. Grown in the famous tuffeau limestone soils, the wines of Vouvray range from dry to sweet, still to bubbly and everything in between. Some serious label examination is needed to decipher the style of the wine within the bottle. (Find some label guidance on page 24.) But enough about Chenin, lets talk reds. Although Gamay, Malbec, Grolleau, and Cabernet Sauvignon all play minor roles, it is Cabernet Franc that steals the show. A parent to its more famous offspring Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc is appreciated for the purity of its raspberry, plum, and strawberry flavours that are accented by hints of pepper, violets, and graphite. Regions such as Chinon and Bourgueil are the most renowned and can provide savoury, medium-bodied reds that often surprise the taster with an intensity of flavour one would not expect from their pale colour. As we draw near the ocean, seafood begins to dominate the region’s restaurant menus, as do wines perfectly suited to accompanying the fare. Here we enter the aptly named Lower Loire Valley region. The maritime climate lends itself to white wine production and the grape of choice here is known as Melon de Bourgogne. Simple when compared to the confusion of the Middle Loire, the Lower Loire’s wines largely revolve around this mild-mannered grape, and the best examples come from the Muscadet appellation. Although several subregions exist, the essential info is that the wines display subtle apple, citrus, and melon flavours that, in the best examples, are accompanied by a salty, briny, mineral note that makes them the perfect oyster pairing. Handcrafted and complex, these delicious, mineral-driven wines represent a great bargain for the savvy consumer.
LOWER LOIRE WINES
Pierre Luneau-Papin 2014 L d’Or Granite Sur Lie Muscadet Sèvre & Maine AOC, Loire Valley $27.99
Taste and Learn Clearly the Loire offers a lot for the wine drinker who is willing to learn a little about its diverse potential. The best way to begin to truly understand the region is to try the wines! Travel to France and taste your way up and down the Loire, or take a much less expensive staycation and let us send you on a virtual tour of the valley with our wine experts as your guide. Either way, tasting through the Loire will give you a deeper understanding and appreciation of this truly enchanting region.
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