Pollock Journal | Issue 3: Where the Wild Things are

Page 19

on the wild water These

days,

with

the

difficulty

of

raising

a

family

through the tumult of a pandemic, it’s crucial to be able

to

step

outside

and

away

from

the

noise

to

find moments of peace. Ideally long, uninterrupted moments where I’m out of my routine, my mind stops churning through the to-do list, and I am present for myself and completely aware of my surroundings.

Sometimes a quick run will have to do, and I always

On the shore, you still feel the built environment

try to block time for yoga, but the real escape that I

all around you, but in front of you, just a short

have found in the recent past is on a surfboard.

distance

offshore,

is

the

line

where

the

places

that people have built crosses into the wild. The Am I a surfer? Ha! No! But I am a person who gets on a

surfboard

from

time

to

time,

and

on

several

occasions I’ve moved from one place in the water to another, sometimes while standing! Truth be told, I am proud of the progress I’ve made in learning to surf at age 40, but for me it’s not really about the surfing as much as it’s the whole immersive experience of being out on the water, bobbing in the waves, with only the sound

of

water

slapping

at

the

board

and

the

soothing dirge of waves rolling onto the beach while the seagulls squawk at one another.

ocean

is

intense,

with

an

element

of

danger

always present with the tides, in the water, and yet the thrum of the mainland recedes with each paddle until finally you’re away from it all. Out there

it’s

just

me,

the

board,

the

sun,

my

wet

salty hair finding its way all around my head. The occasional seabird passes by, hardly concerned with me. My pulse levels off, my tension eases, and then I just watch the water and wait for the one

for

me.

I

can

choose

to

take

it,

or

I

can

choose to let it roll on under me. It is for me and

I confess I was nervous at first, but I jumped at the

for

opportunity

independence. I bathe in the sights and sounds

to

try,

and

immediately

after

my

first

wave, I was hooked. Maybe because the solitude and independence complete

of

the

opposite

of

surfing a

experience

mother’s

life

is

with

me

only

to

decide,

and

I

revel

in

my

of my surroundings, and I reset.

the

young

children - did I mention I have three children? - but I found it to be both exhilarating and calming at the same

time.

difficult, here

in

and

captivated The

The fact

near

there me

physical

impossible,

brought

was

transformation

I

challenge

me

but

joy.

psychological. felt

in

my

felt a

little

But

mind

and

-

victory

what

Almost

time I rode out to try to catch a wave.

good

really

spiritual.

body

each

by:

Kelly Lombardi REALTOR/Sales Associate