Making Waves:
How Military Clothing Shapes Fashion
Naval Heritage:
Chiefs’ Wardrobe
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U K A J A
In an imaginative world filled with 1950s finger-snapping street gangs who battle in alleyways by song and dance, there is certain panache to the rough, yet slick, aesthetic. Hair pulled back with pomade, faded jeans and, perhaps most importantly, the letterman jacket – a simple zip-up associated with varsity sports. A seeming romanticism of the
communities where U.S. military bases were established. The style of the rough enlisted men and the American culture they flashed began to infiltrate the younger generation of Japanese, who saw the new styles as fresh and cool. Taking cues from what they perceived, groups throughout Kanagawa and Tokyo began to create their own
jazzy look with Hawaiian shirts, aviator sunglasses and pompadour hairstyles. Yet, more connected to the occupation scene were the gurentai, who were young thugs that were able to acquire quality clothing through service members by bribes and women. It was this appeal of delinquency that drove youth into these sects of
started requesting their own jackets and as a normal operational duty rotation developed, the designed jackets became known as “souvenir jackets,” and local shops began making their own for sale, made out of silk and satin. Fitting in with the local scene, dominated by counter fashion, the jacket soon became a symbol of native Yokosuka style. Soon dubbed sukajan, a portmanteau of Yokosuka and the Japanese pronunciation of jumper, the jacket became synonymous with the tougher urbanites that haunted the area around the naval base.
Masayuki Yamazaki, a son of hard laborers, moved to a busy hub district in Tokyo – Shinjuku. Planning on opening up bars for the defiant youth, he did not find much success but found solace in the culture. Yet, as the counter movements Yamazaki so loved developed, criminality and crackdown became tandem elements until he was forced to relocate into sleepy Harajuku in the mid-1970s. With a new jet-setting woman by his side, Yamazaki began bringing foreign clothing to Japan to sell in his shop. The imported punk goods became immediate hits, and Yamazaki realized
and delinquent fashion and revitalizing Harajuku into a fashion center of Japan. But, he could attribute the major growth from one fateful incident at the beginning of his venture. Working at his bar, before his ultimate successes, a man walked into his shop, fully fitted in delinquent Japanese style. Hailing from Yokosuka, the man introduced Yamazaki to the Yokosuka Mambo style, developed from working-class Japanese who had been well adjusted to the American Navy presence. After the end of direct occupation, the American military phased down the
“e style of the rough enlisted men and the American culture they flashed began to infiltrate the younger generation of Japanese, who saw
in the Honch, there was a daily mixture of Japanese and American culture, so it naturally led to the prime location for embroidery shops to open their sukajan outlets. From this hub, the jacket became an icon, an example of the culture that went against everything high Japanese society stood for. With the baseball cut, shiny exterior, intricate embroidering and bold symbolism, the sukajan spread through the prefecture being worn by Japanese gangsters and rebellious youth in the 1950s and 60s. Featured in Japanese cinema, the jacket gained notoriety on the national stage for Yakuza ties and general delinquency. But tied into the greater fashion movement happening all around the greater Tokyo area, it was a top choice for those choosing the Mambo style. It was a purveyor of Yokosuka Mambo who walked into Yamazaki’s store in Harajuku and introduced a native style to an import fashion store. A native style born of the forced mixture of two worlds. When Yamazaki introduced these new pieces, they coincided with the immense growth his business experienced, and as he moved to a multi-story complex, his fashion preferences came with him. As his status grew, so did that of the Mambo style, and even greater, the sukajan. The Yokosuka Jumper. The Souvenir Jacket. In today’s world, the jacket’s style is copied everywhere you go. Walking through Tokyo, many stores sell
and their influence today remain. Store after store sell this jacket at a quality not found outside Yokosuka, the creating city of this unique brand. Prince Shokai was an original embroider opened over 70 years ago and still makes sukajan now. Looking at these jackets, there is
more than just an over-the-top flash and styling. There is an extraordinary history that defines a nation’s century of crisis and development. A result of two cultures and the expression of the youth who thought there was another way than accepting the traditional clean-cute life. The definition of Yokosuka.
Chiefs’ Wardrobe Through the Years Graphics by Naval History & Herritage Command, & MCSN Randy Adams
When Hull Technician 3rd Class Rachel Kachi signed up in 2016, she wanted to pick up an in demand skill that would offer a stable, well-paying job for the rest of her life. “I was selling shoes in San Diego and going to college,” the fivefoot nothing California native with everything Guam running through her veins said. When she first joined, she didn’t know a thing about welding, had never been in a machine shop. “I had also never seen a pair of cowboy boots in my life. Like ones that someone was actually wearing,” she said. “The recruiter sold me on Hull Technician so I could work on becoming a welder.” “But he never said nothing about unclogging the [toilets].” Only using a more crass word. “They never say anything about the [waste management and pipe fitting],” shouted a shipmate from the back of the shop, with an equal
amount of saltiness built into his engineer vocabulary. “They never said anything about the country music either,” Kachi shouted back. Kachi joined in 2016. She needed to find a way to adopt her younger brother, but her hectic schedule of school, retail and basketball made her a less than ideal
candidate for such a responsibility. “I asked if the Navy would be considered a stable lifestyle for my brother. When the counselor said yeah, I dropped out of school and enlisted.” Only, her intentions were for naught. Once she arrived in Great Lakes, got a haircut and began training, Kachi found out her paperwork was denied. Someone in the family had already adopted her brother. Life was good back home while Kachi was hanging out in an open-bay barracks swabbing up her own sweat. If this was a sitcom, this is the part where the narrator would say, “And Kachi thought to herself right then that she made a huge mistake.” “Things turned around for me,” she said. “I found out I really liked engineering and wouldn’t have really
Guam. In fact, most of her family is in Guam. Everything about her screams Guam. From the way she talks to the tattoos on her arms. Even her welder’s mask is decorated with stickers from Guam and adorned with other Guam-like paraphernalia. Her father had moved the family from Barrigauda, Guam to San Diego when she was young and she’s wanted to go back ever since. “He wouldn’t let me go to school in Guam. I think he made the right choice for me, but I’ve always loved Guam,” she said. So she was raised in San Diego though her heart stayed in Guam. “Then, I got orders to USS Ronald Reagan, Yokosuka, Japan. I had scratched Japan out on my list of places I wanted to go, so of course I would go to Japan,” she said. “I was
imagined when she was sitting at the recruiter’s office two years ago. “I mean, the job is pretty easy if you just do what you’re supposed to do,” she said. “And if I pick up second-class, I might be able to get shore duty in Guam or stateside.” But that’s all looking pretty far ahead right now. August 2020 is a ways out there after all. For now, Kachi is working on just learning the job and picking up qualifications. In the year-and-a-half since first reporting to Reagan, she’s already worked her way up to Repair Locker 3 scene leader and developed her skills as a welder. Gaining a trade skill was the entire point of her I was travelling around the world while enlisting in the first place. everyone else was sitting still in San “If I do decide to leave the Navy, Diego. And I was starting to really like though, I am definitely going to the job, you know.” go back to school. But this time to Kachi is still on the fence about restudy engineering.” enlisting, though she is leaning more “Engineers get paid.” toward sticking around a few more years. Any shoe salesperson can tell you That’s something she never would have cowboy boots are expensive.
From the glamour-stricken scene of rock and roll to the underground, experimental fashion of today’s trendiest youth, military clothing has been making waves in the fashion industry since the early 16th century. So, what is it about military style that appeals to such a diverse population? Whether it is the rugged look a worn pair of combat boots brings to an aesthetic or the intimidation one projects before an audience while glistening underneath the stage lights in a sharp, military marching band drummer jacket, military fashion is just as diverse as it is functional. The inspiration of military fashion may be dated to the early 16th century, with luxury companies such as Yves Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Balmain, among many others, designing outerwear Photo courtesy of Flickr with likeness to those worn by historical military figures, such as Napoleon Bonaparte and James Brudenell, seventh Earl of Cardigan and British army general. In fact, the origin of the pea coat dates back to the 16th century Dutch navy as an aesthetically pleasing, yet durable, piece of outerwear that could be modified depending on the region where one was sailing.
sole purpose of keeping troops and personnel concealed among the elements they operate in during missions. In contrast, when camouflage is used in fashion apparel, it makes the wearer stand out. Some people may even wear the articles of clothing purely for aesthetic purpose and Photo courtesy of WikiMediaCommons completely disregard the history of their items. This seems to be increasingly common with certain the Thirty Years War, which began in 1618, as well as cardigan sweaters which brands that even use imagery of military rank and awards in the design of their are attributed to Brudenell, who led clothing. the Charge of the Light Bridge Brigade Some people may be inspired by during the Crimean War. popular culture to take up the wear of Possibly the most recognized military fashion, examples to include derivative of military style is the games like Call of Duty, Halo and camouflage pattern popularized by Battlefield as a way to show appreciation the French army, who employed
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daring sharpshooters had to be outfitted with coats suitable for the high-speeds and cold winds. Other items of clothing with a military history that are popular in today’s fashion include the shoe brand Dr. Martens, designed by German Army doctor Klaus Martens, while he was on leave due to an ankle injury during World War II. While on leave, Dr. Martens noticed that his militaryissued boots did not provide the comfort that his injured foot needed and experimented with softer leather and cushioned soles, which have since become staple to the popular brand. Fishtail parkas, aviator sunglasses and cargo pants are also attributed to the long history of military clothing being fashionable, as well as functional. The other major influence of military style can be heavily seen from the purely fashionable alternative in today’s rockand-roll culture, as well as cultural icons such as The Beatles, Michael Jackson and Lady Gaga. So what is it about the military fashion that has enchanted such high profile stars? During the time of their primary function, did the military leaders, as well as dictators, realize their looks could become immortalized in high fashion society? When I first watched the recording of the 1993 Super Bowl XXVII, there was only one thing I sought after – the Halftime Show. A solid minute passed with no sound except for the ballistic audience cheering and screaming for the stationary, statuesque figure of Michael Jackson himself sporting a black, military-esque jacket adorned with what
Photo courtesy of Flickr
show to date, as well as watching Gerard Way of My Chemical Romance scream his heart out to “Welcome to the The Black Parade” while adorned in a dazzling black and silver marching band jacket, I took it upon myself to buy one of these incredibly enchanting jackets. An anguishing few weeks passed, and then I received my package. Immediately upon opening the bag, I felt an air of awesomeness radiate from within, taking me back to all the nights spent in awe of Michael’s performance, as well as hearing the mournful, yet empowering
Photo courtesy of Flickr
Photo courtesy of WikiMediaCommons
looking jacket. These experiences have helped me realize the true appeal of militaryinspired clothing, or should I say, appeals. There is a certain power you feel while wearing them due to the long history of the military being associated with bravery, gallantry and power – and with the power also comes an unexpected sense of romance. The
mantra that “no man gets left behind.” So while some may see the trend of military fashion as just cool looking clothing, others may see and feel it as a representation of a history of bravery, boldness, romance, tragedy and triumph. When you slip on your Doc Martens, remember the soldier who cleverly made do with what he had to cushion a bum ankle. When you throw on your bomber jacket to complete your functional, yet fashionable, getup for a night out, remember the brave pilots who forged through high speeds and icy altitudes to
Harajuku Fashion
Photos by: MC3 Tyler John Story by: MC3 Kaila Peters Shibuya is well known for its bustling youth culture, but one train stop away is a thriving center for artistic expression and experimental fashion. Step into Harajuku and enter a world where alternative style is the norm. Gothic lolitas walk among the most kawaii of the decoden dolls down streets filled with everything from underground punk rock shops to name brand Lolita stores. Back when American Soldiers and civilians lived in the area during the postwar occupation, curious Japanese youths came to experience a different culture and browse the Western goods in local stores that were catering to the Americans. Noticing the Japanese interest in foreign goods, fashion designers and their entourages settled in the area, calling themselves “the Harajuku tribe.” The movement got even more of a boost when the 1964 Tokyo Olympics brought in waves of tourists and shops that catered to them. During the 1970’s, the fashionobsessed youth culture that once occupied areas in Shinjuku and Shibuya began migrating to Harajuku.
bands performing impromptu gigs and dance troops performing on the streets in hopes of garnering more exposure. This closing of roads came to be recognized as “Sundays only pedestrian’s paradise.” While this tradition was abolished in 1998, you can still find fashion fanatics as well as street performers gathered on Takeshita Street as well as Yoyogi Park. Today, Harajuku is not just the center for fashion-forward Japanese youth, it’s also one of the fashion centers of the world. Takeshita Street is the focal point for fashion gatherings every Sunday by Japanese youth, as well as foreigners and performance artists dressed in the many different styles of Harajuku culture. These styles constantly change as some are abandoned, others evolve and many are often combined. However, many of these subcultures earn a wide reputation among foreign and Japanese fans alike. Some of these styles include:
Cosplay
Cosplay, short for “costume play,” involves assuming the persona
“own character”, meaning a character or persona from that person’s own imagination. Cosplay attracts a wide audience from both the casual fans who are simply inspired by a character, to the literature-obsessed who may go as far as obtaining their pieces from antique shops or regionally accurate locations to make their cosplay as accurate as possible.
Lolita
Lolita is widely considered an umbrella term, as a high amount of subcultures exist within this branch of fashion. The classic style of Lolita, appropriately named “Classic Lolita,” is inspired by the Victorian and Edwardian-era style of children’s clothing with voluminous skirts and headwear such as hair bows or bonnets. While the origin of Lolita fashion is unclear, sources of inspiration include Western culture and literature such as Alice in Wonderland. Alice was considered an ideal icon for the Shojo image, meaning an image of eternal innocence and beauty. Subcultures
is characterized by the use of overly “sweet” themes such as baby animals, pastel colors and candy accessories.
Gyaru
Gyaru is another popular fashion which was adapted from the English word “gal,” and is recognized by an overtly childish, girly-glam look, often seen as a caricature of the typical American teenager. Bleached or dyed hair, and garishly decorated makeup and nails are very common in gyaru fashion. Clothing styles vary, based on which gyaru sub-style is chosen. Sub styles of gyaru are recognized by the level of gaudiness, with ganguro
out among rock musicians, visual kei consists of striking avant garde makeup, unusual hairstyles and flamboyant costumes. Visual kei can most easily be equated to Western glam rock and glam metal. Most partakers in visual kei also see androgyny as an important aspect of the style. Kote Kei which is the oldest and most established form the of fashion is found in two types, known as “black” in which a band can portray a very dark side and “white” Decora style originated in the where they portray a lighter, more late 1990’s and rose to worldwide melodic side. popularity with the singer Kyary Oshare kai is quite the opposite Pamyu Pamyu, who exemplifies decora of Kote Kai, with focus on bright in her pop image. This fashion includes colors and colorful cute overtones. plain clothing in either black or neon, This subculture spawned a whole with plain makeup and straight across new variety of sub cultures to include bangs. However, the prominent feature fairy kei and dolly kai, which draw of decora is to pile on many layers inspiration from fairy tales as well as of cute accessories until the bangs toys from the early 2000’s. and shirt are barely visible. Stockings, These are just a few of the more legwarmers, armwarmers, and knee popular sub cultures that exist socks are also worn over each other in among the streets of Harajuku, as different layers. Common details also many of them have inspired layers include leopard prints and patterned of subcultures within themselves.
Decora