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PIECES OF PERTH

YOUR GUIDE TO PERTH’S URBAN VILLAGES


PIECES OF PERTH

YOUR GUIDE TO PERTH’S URBAN VILLAGES Welcome 3 Festivals & Events

4

Top Ten Perth Encounters

8

Perth 12 Northbridge 18 West Perth

26

East Perth

28

Beaufort St

30

Leederville 36 North Perth

40

Subiaco 42 Mt Hawthorn

48

Victoria Park

50

Claremont 54 Life’s Little Essentials

56

Map 57 1


WELCOME From the heady days of the gold rush to the frenzy of the mining boom, Perth has always been synonymous with prosperity. The city’s honeyed sunshine and natural abundance are universally appealing—whether you’re chasing a blissful lifestyle or dream of striking it rich. But there’s more to the west coast capital than unspoilt coastline. Economic growth and a cosmopolitan perspective have lent Perth a new cultural confidence, making its mark on the city skyline and transforming every facet of urban life. These days, Perth’s arts institutions hold world-class exhibitions and city laneways have given way to an explosive dining scene, buoyed by rebellious local chefs. Matchbox bars are sprouting up in forgotten spaces and bold design projects are putting conservative values to rest. For Perth’s most magnetic cultural encounters, venture away from its sparkling beaches and look beyond the city grid. Explore Perth’s bohemian quarter in Leederville, unwind in leafy Mount Hawthorn and sample Beaufort Street’s refined edit of art, food and design. Savour multi-ethnic flavours in Victoria Park and indulge your inner tastemaker in Claremont, before losing yourself in Northbridge, an enclave where creativity and hedonism run riot. Pieces of Perth will help you forge an intimate connection with this fast-evolving city— a sophisticated metropolis that’s the sum of many parts.


NORTHBRIDGE PIAZZA

FESTIVALS & EVENTS From electric community events to world-class festivals, Perth’s cultural calendar is high on creativity, magic and spectacle. Mark your diaries.

4

FRINGE WORLD FESTIVAL

January–February Burlesque, cabaret and audacious performances headline this tribute to creative ephemera, spearheaded by Northbridge arts mavericks Artrage. fringeworld.com.au PERTH INTERNATIONAL ARTS FESTIVAL

February A world-class festival of music, theatre, arts and more. Find free and family entertainments and don’t miss the festival bar—it’s the festival’s heart and soul. perthfestival.com.au


MUSIC BY MOONLIGHT

ANGOVE STREET FESTIVAL

March Unfolding on the banks of the Swan, this free evening of classical music and opera features starlit performances by the West Australian Youth Orchestra. victoriapark.wa.gov.au

April A cast of local retailers, cafes and eateries star in this ode to all things North Perth. It’s also heavy on community spirit and crosscultural charm. angovestreetfestival.com.au

ST PATRICK’S DAY PARADE & FAMILY FUN DAY

PERTH INTERNATIONAL COMEDY FESTIVAL

March Family events, entertainment and displays, live music, bands, market style stalls and more in Leederville. stpatricksdaywa.com

May Global comedians and West Australian talent face off in Perth’s crash course in the art of standup. perthcomedyfest.com

PERTH WRITER’S FESTIVAL

CITY OF PERTH WINTER ARTS SEASON

March Celebrating the written word in all its guises, this much-loved festival connects literary superstars with aspiring scribes via panels, workshops and reader events. perthfestival.com.au

June–August A whirlwind of cutting-edge theatre, music, opera, comedy, cabaret, dance, film, circus, literature, family events, visual arts, and public art installations. visitperthcity.com

SUNSET CINEMA

REVELATION PERTH INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL

March Held in leafy Claremont Park, this open-air cinema proves that there’s no better pairing than a muchloved flick and an evening picnic. claremont.wa.gov.au EAT DRINK PERTH

April Perth’s biggest month-long food festival includes pop-up bars, masterclasses, wine and cheese tasting events and more. visitperthcity.com

July Perth’s tribute to cinematic gold — an edit of compelling documentaries, arthouse gems and shorts. revelationfilmfest.org PERTH FASHION FESTIVAL

September Western Australia’s premier annual fashion event; a six day celebration of the WA fashion industry. perthfashionfestival.com.au 5


TWILIGHT HAWKER MARKET

SUBI STREET FESTIVAL

October–April (Every Friday 5pm–9pm) Wander through stalls with the tastiest street food from around the globe along Forrest Place, CBD. visitperthcity.com

December Activities, entertainment, food and  market stalls celebrating the local community. visitsubiaco.com.au

ROOFTOP MOVIES

December Light displays lend otherworldly sparkle to Leederville’s Oxford Street during this tribute to food, art and community. It also sees local alleys and laneways play host to one-off performances and public art. leedervillecarnival.com.au

October–April Six floors up, on top of the Roe St Carpark, a secret pop-up paradise has re-opened for a summer of cinema. Expect to see old-school gems, cinephile classics, cult and art house movies thrown in alongside blockbuster new releases. rooftopmovies.com.au

LIGHT UP LEEDERVILLE CARNIVAL

BEAUFORT STREET FESTIVAL

November High-voltage Beaufort Street is the backdrop for this much-loved street party which combines homegrown bands and public art with ambitious programming. It’s also the state’s largest community festival. beaufortstreetfestival.com.au CHRISTMAS IN CLAREMONT

December Claremont’s lesson in yuletide cheer features kids’ activities, holiday stalls and cameos by Santa. Don’t miss the stirring Carols by Candlelight, courtesy of the WA Youth Orchestra. claremont.wa.gov.au 6

BEAUFORT STREET FESTIVAL


ROOFTOP MOVIES 7


Whether you crave inner-city electricity, celestial beaches or a world-class food scene, Perth delivers in spades. These ten unmissable Perth experiences are a crash course in the city that has it all.

UNCLE JOE’S MESS HALL 8


URBAN SHUFFLE

Get acquainted with Perth’s character-filled villages and taste the distinct flavours only discoverable through experience. KINGS PARK WALK

Take an evening walk with an Australian history lesson at Kings Park, an inner-city haven known for ANZAC monuments, dizzying vistas and a spring wildflower season that’s an assault on the senses.

SWAN RIVER RIDE

Fall in love with the Swan River via catamaran, kayak or sailboat or revisit your childhood lion obsession with an afternoon ferry ride to Perth Zoo. WINE TASTING

Sip a grenache in sundappled Swan Valley, a wine region 25 minutes east of Perth that’s home to over 80 vineyards, 150 eateries and artisans doling out velvety chocolate and cheese. Don’t miss the 32km Food & Wine Trail, a loop that takes you past wineries, boutique breweries, cafes, restaurants, roadside stalls and heritage sites. 9


FORESHORE RIDE

Hire a bicycle for a stunning ride of the Swan River foreshore. Stop and linger over an afternoon picnic with great  water views.

FREMANTLE DAZE

Lose yourself in Freo, a hive of heritage architecture, colourful eateries and offbeat art and music. It’s also high on fine dining and nautical charm.

BEACH BLISS

Watch the sun dip over the ocean from a Cottesloe balcony, make like a local with a sunrise jog and seaside espresso or take a stroll across stretches of white sand beach.

ISLAND HOP

Swap the mainland for a day on Rottnest, a one-of-a kind island tailor-made for snorkelling, diving and cycling. It also doubles as home turf for the quokka —a shy marsupial native to Western Australia. 10

COTTESLOE BEACH


FREMANTLE

SWIM WITH DOLPHINS

Spot seals and penguins and swim with wild dolphins in Rockingham’s Shoalwater Island Marine Park, a wildlife lover’s mecca that’s a forty-five minute trip from the city. HEAD FOR THE HILLS

Hike the sprawling Perth Hills, a rugged district punctuated with walking trails, art galleries and lush national parks. It also serves up glittering views of the city at night. 11


AT A GLANCE

8:30AM Stop by a hole-in-

NUMBER OF SMALL BARS IN THE CBD 25

the-wall café for a preworkday caffeine hit

[Source: City of Perth Small Bar Guide]

TRANSPORT Perth Station, Perth Underground Station, Perth Esplanade Station, various bus routes, Swan River Ferry

POPULATION 19,043 MEDIAN AGE 32

PERTH

WELLINGTON ST 5

UNDERGROUND

BAY

2

PIER ST

6

THE ESPLANADE

RD

ST GEORGES TCE

7

3

HAY ST

1

TERRACE RD

ESPLANADE

RIVERSIDE DR

4

RI V

KINGS PARK DE SI ER

DR

N

LEGEND E

W

S

Train Station

Parks

Water

Cycle routes

Free Wifi available in most public areas

LANDMARKS 1 The Old Court House 4 The Bell Tower

7 Council House 12

2 Central Park 5 GPO

3 Brookfield Place 6 Perth Town Hall

VICTORIA AV

MILL ST

NTS

U MO

MURRAY ST

BARRACK ST

ST GEORGES TCE

WILLIAM ST

HAY ST

MURRAY ST

KING ST

ELDER ST

MILLIGAN ST

MITCHELL FREE WAY

MURRAY ST


Perth might be blessed with a sparkling river and sunny disposition but there’s more to this waterside city than meets the eye. Its skyscrapers are home to the state’s movers and shakers while its laneways double as canvases for artists and culinary ventures in full flight. These days, inventive boutiques sit beside young national and global flagship stores and the city’s forgotten public spaces have become urban retreats. A sense of cultural rebellion is transforming this postcard-perfect city at a pace that has to be experienced to be believed.


WORD ON THE STREET

The small bar revolution

WATER LABYRINTH

TYPICAL LOCAL

Perth locals are cosmopolitan, well-educated career types buoyed by the city’s renewed faith in urbanism and spirit of change. They are environmental consultants, mining managers and young entrepreneurs who enjoy Perth’s laid-back sensibility and cultural range. Here, workers hold picnics in green spaces and debrief about the day over rooftop drinks. They know their city blends an endless supply of sunshine with sophisticated tastes. 14


THREE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ONE Perth city is a retail addict’s paradise. Say goodbye to tight purse-strings at Carillon City, enex100, Raine Square, Forrest Chase and Hay and Murray Street Malls. TWO Running every ten minutes, Perth’s free Central Area Transit (CAT) shuttle bus is a speedy way to explore the city grid with zero impact on your wallet. THREE Business and pleasure coexist on St Georges Terrace —the busy thoroughfare has given rise to an electric small bar and dining scene on the verge of full bloom.

THE AVIARY 15


VENN 16


THE TRUSTEE

URBAN LEGEND

Built as part of Perth’s busy Kwinana Freeway system in 1959, driving over the Narrows Bridge is a daily ritual for modern Perth motorists. However, the artery also offers insight into the city’s settlement history prior to 1829. The Narrows Bridge marks the site of indigenous remains that have been carbon-dated at 40,000 years—a discovery that has seen Perth trump both Ancient Egypt and Imperial Rome in terms of human habitation.

SEE A piece of Tudor England in modernday Perth via London Court, a re-creation of a London arcade built for wealthy gold miner Claude de Bernales. DO Sip a negroni at an underground speakeasy before feasting on sirloin at a wood-paneled brasserie at Brookfield Place—a glossy new dining and entertainment precinct that’s as inventive as it is inviting. BUY A one-off piece by an iconic designer on King Street, Perth’s cobblestoned nod to Paris. TASTE Linger over tempranillo and Spanish olives at Andaluz, a moody laneway tapas bar. SMELL Fiery satay and freshly made paella at the Twilight Hawker Market— held Fridays from October to April in Forrest Place.

17


AT A GLANCE

DISTANCE FROM CBD

KM

650m

6PM Catch a free screening at

BULWER ST

LN ST

Northbridge Piazza while the sun paints the city pink TRANSPORT Accessible via Perth Station, Perth Underground Station or free Blue CAT shuttle

BRISBANE ST

BEAUFORT ST

STIRLING ST

LINDSAY ST

MONEY ST

HOTSPOTS Bivouac Canteen & Bar, Ezra Pound, Mechanics Institute

STIRLING ST

ROBINSON AV

BEAUFORT ST

WILLIAM ST

POPULATION 1,009 MEDIAN AGE 29

NEWCASTLE ST

3

WILLIAM ST

RUSSELL SQUARE

PARKER ST

SHENTON ST

FITZGERALD ST

JOHN ST

FRANCIS ST

FRANCIS ST

MUSEUM ST

ABERDEEN ST

ABERDEEN ST

4

JAMES ST

JAMES ST MALL

LAKE ST

2 1

ROE ST

PERTH

LEGEND N

W

S

18

Train Station E

Parks

Cycle routes

LANDMARKS 1 Perth Cultural Centre

2 PICA

3 The Re Store

4 Northbridge Piazza

Free Wifi


Northbridge’s around-the-clock energy is tightly linked to its history of hedonism. Here, former gambling dens and high-voltage nightspots have faded into makeshift artspaces, well-edited retail shops and secret bars while European merchants and Chinese dumpling houses blend the old and the new with aplomb. A radically authentic enclave with a colourful past.


EZRA POUND 20


TYPICAL LOCAL

Northbridge draws creatives, culinary purists and students with non-stop energy and boundary-pushing dreams. They are web designers, bar owners and passionate shopkeepers who value their neighbourhood’s roughhewn charms.

THREE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW

THE MECHANICS INSTITUTE BAR

ONE In Northbridge, you’re just as likely to find pint-sized drinkeries as high-voltage nightspots. Scour carparks and graffiti-etched laneways for signs of Perth’s emerging small bar culture. TWO From late January to February, Northbridge galleries and pop-up spaces host everything from live comedy to cabaret, courtesy of annual arts festivals Fringe World and Perth International Arts Festival. THREE Yum cha is religion in Northbridge. Visit on Sunday mornings for delicate egg tarts and steamed pork buns. 21


SEE The arcade at 189 William Street—a miniature thoroughfare lined with everything from caffeine boltholes and waffle joints to shops selling vintage sneakers. DO Browse an exhibition at WA Museum and debrief at the PICA Bar, a venue with kaleidoscopic views of the Cultural Centre. BUY A vintage sundress from a local boutique. TASTE A flaky apple strudel from iconic continental bakery Corica Pastries on Aberdeen Street. SMELL The scent of creative aspiration, thanks to local street artists intent on reimagining Northbridge walls. 22

THE BIRD

URBAN LEGEND

With headquarters on Aberdeen Street and retail offshoot the Re Store on nearby Lake Street, the history of European foods speaks volumes about the evolution of Northbridge itself. During the Great Depression, John Re—the son of Italian migrants—pawned his wife Maria’s wedding ring in pursuit of his dream—a continental providore that would offer locals a passport to their homeland via handrolled pasta, buffalo mozzarella and fresh salami. This period also saw the couple supply Perth with its first caffeine fix by roasting beans under the now-famous Braziliano Coffee label. Eight decades later, European Foods distributes countrywide and the Re Store is a magnet for those seeking culinary encounters with a side of soul.


STATE THEATRE CENTRE

ART GALLERY OF WESTERN AUSTRALIA 23


WILLIAM ST NORTH

While in Northbridge, explore the north end of William Street—an enclave that’s home to audacious projects, character-filled shops, Asian and Middle Eastern influences and a cluster of soulful nightspots. It’s also happily immune to the clutches of gentrification.


DID YOU KNOW?

BULWER ST

LANE ST

WADE ST

EDITH ST RUTH ST

BIRDWOOD SQUARE

BRISBANE ST BRISBANE PL

BRISBANE TCE

1

ROBINSON AV

ROBINSON AV

LINDSAY ST

WILLIAM ST

BROOKMAN ST

WELLMAN ST

MONGER ST

LITTLE PARRY ST

3 2

MONEY ST

FORBES RD

WASHING LN

NEWCASTLE ST

LANDMARKS 1 Perth Mosque

• Although Perth’s official Chinatown is marked by the lion statues on either side of Roe Street, William Street North is the soul of the city’s Asian food culture. Come for late night noodle joints, tiny Chinese eateries and pho to rival the backstreets of Hanoi. • Open ‘til 1am every evening and later on weekends, The Moon Cafe is one of the city’s original late night venues. It also doubles as a haunt for local poets and jazz musicians. LEGEND

Free Wifi available in various cafes & businesses Parks

Cycle routes

2 The Moon Cafe

3 The Good Fortune Roast Duck House

INSIDER’S TIP

“Turner Galleries, corner of William and Bulwer streets, is one of my favourite local spaces. It is a large commercial art gallery that holds interesting exhibitions of the works of WA artists. Their Art Angels project provides a space where ideas can grow and be shared.” —Kate McKie, owner, William Topp

THE MOON CAFE 25


A short stroll from the city, West Perth is an entrepreneurial precinct where glossy apartment complexes and shiny office towers are a front for inspired hospitality ventures and a subtle cultural pulse. URBAN LEGEND

Erected in 1934 and standing six metres tall, the Edith Dirksey Cowan Memorial is an Art Deco tribute to one of Perth’s most-loved female historical figures. A tireless campaigner for women’s rights, Cowan helped build the King Edward Memorial Hospital for Women and co-founded the National Council of Women. In 1920, Cowan cemented her status as the state’s most prolific feminist when she was appointed to the Western Australian Legislative Assembly—the first woman to hold a seat in any Australian Parliament.

GORDON STREET GARAGE


TYPICAL LOCAL

West Perth residents are affluent, fun-loving professionals who take sunset jogs down Jacob’s Ladder in Kings Park. Here, expats, property developers and mine geologists live in warehouse conversions in leafy backstreets and frequent corner cafes for weekend breakfast, along with their dogs.

DISTANCE FROM CBD 1.6km

DE

OO

TR

SUTHERLAND

ST

MI TC HE LL FR EE

ST 2

AY W

ROE ST

OM

LIN

TH

CO

CITY WEST

ST

9PM Wine and

wood-fired pizza at a sleek, warehouseinspired eatery.

SUTHERLAND ST

AS

ST

KM

MARKET ST

3

WELLINGTON ST 5

MITCHELL FREEWAY

MURRAY ST

HAY ST

ST M

ST AS

4

M

AL CO

ALTONA ST

WALKER AV

TH OM

ORD ST

HARVEST TCE

HAVELOCK ST

EMERALD TCE

COLIN ST

OUTRAM ST

VENTNOR AV

PARLIAMENT PL

KINGS PARK

KINGS PARK RD

LEGEND

N

Train Station E

W

S

1

Parks

Cycle routes

LANDMARKS 1 Kings Park 4 Parliament House

3 Harbour Town 2 Scitech 5 G  ordon Street Garage 27


A tranquil waterside village that serves up aspiration and innovation in equal parts thanks to a progressive local ethos that grants both strollers and briefcases equal grace. THREE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ONE Think eggs go best with a

side of Claisebrook Cove? Pick a Royal Street eatery for brunch favourites complete with waterside vistas. TWO East Perth is ground zero for Perth’s foodies—the area has given rise to a much-loved community garden, City Farm, as well as a lively Saturday farmer’s market. THREE The West Australian cricket ground (WACA) has been luring sports fiends since 1895. Explore the ground’s museum collection for an instant ticket to the state’s on-field legacy.

TOAST


URBAN LEGEND

East Perth’s idyllic riverside setting is a postcard-perfect foil for an industrial past. From 1916 to 1980, the area played host to the East Perth Power Station, a major electricity source that powered Perth’s homes, industries and transport systems through the course of the 20th century. The power station expanded when West Australian households began a love affair with electrical appliances —the 1950s saw the electricity grid venture beyond the metropolitan area to span the city’s southwest. The station was decommissioned in 1980.

CITY FARM

GRAHAM FARMER FWY

2

OK BRO

ER

RAC

ES CR

ER

D

LAN

RIV

GLE

ERS

ON CRES

UCE PAR STER K

V

E

NE L S

GLO

NELSON A

TC

WA TER L O O

ST

TER

IDE

NILE ST

ST

BR A I TH W AI TE ST

ELA

ON

PLA IN

HIL L ST

AD

Water

R IV

GO DER ICH 4 ST HA YS T

DISTANCE FROM CBD 1.8km

Parks

GT

BEN NET T ST

WEL LIN SQU GTON ARE

LLIN

Train Station

AN

LORD ST

WITTENOOM ST

WE

LEGEND

3

ST

ROYAL ST

KM

SW

EAST PARADE

CLAISEBROOK

1

HA

YS

T

Y PA

IDE

RK

DR

Cycle routes 1 WACA 2 City Farm 3 Claisebrook Cove

4 Perth Mint

CA

US

N

LANDMARKS W

SWAN RIVER

HEIRISSON ISLAND

EW

AY

E S

29


AT A GLANCE

KM

10:30PM A glass of velvety

DISTANCE FROM CBD

2km

Margaret River shiraz sipped near the window of a low-lit drinking hole

POPULATION 10,783 MEDIAN AGE 36

TRANSPORT Accessible via bus routes 21, 22, 66, 67 & 68 HOTSPOTS Jackson’s, Cantina, El Publico, Must Winebar, Ace Pizza, Planet Books

NUMBER OF WHITE HATTED RESTAURANTS

2

WAL

COT

AN

GL

RA

6

T ST

7

5

RD

WAL

4

COT

N VER

OS

GR

BARLEE ST

CH

ST

CLARENCE ST

VIN

HAROLD ST

SM IT H ST

BROOME ST 3

W R IG H T ST

C A V E N D ISH ST

Free Wifi available in various cafes & businesses

CHATSWORTH RD H A R L E Y ST

Cycle routes

W IL L IA M ST

Parks

MARY ST

FORREST PARK

HAROLD ST 2

ST IR L IN G ST

S

LEGEND

B E A U F O R T ST

T

TS

CEN

E

C U R T IS ST

LEM

N

W

RD

SFO

T ST

G E R ALD ST

R O Y ST

D

R OR

ST ALBANS AV

LINCOLN ST

1

LANDMARKS 1 Lincoln St Ventilation Stack 4 The Flying Scotsman 7 Beaucott Building 30

2 The Queens Tavern

5 Alexander Building

3 Brigatti Gardens 6 The Astor Theatre


In Mount Lawley, daily rituals share space with A vibrant thoroughfare that’snonstop the heart and soul street life. Street of Mountenergy Lawleyand andelectric Highgate, Beaufort This inner-citycosmopolitan utopia fights encounters the worships community, threat oftaste. gentrification an and polished An urbanwith playground outlook and with where anti-establishment locals, shops and wine bars come contagious local pride. Mount global pedigrees, Beaufort Street swings to an Lawleyrhythm is a lesson the way unmistakable andinbeats to its own community candrum. give way to a cultural profound sense of place. From buzzing thoroughfares to leafy backstreets, it tempers its love of the progressive with an air of stately grace.


WORD ON THE STREET

“Pizza and beer at the Scotto?”

BEAUFORT STREET MERCHANT

“TANDEM”

TYPICAL LOCAL

Beaufort Street locals might be artists, accountants or academics but they’re ruled by buzzing community spirit and respect for the finer things in life. Here, youngsters and baby boomers share newspapers over morning coffee and clamber for tables at their local restaurant after sunset. 32


THREE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ONE The Astor is Beaufort Street’s favourite live music venue but its history is steeped in celluloid—it screened silent films and arthouse gems between 1922 and 2008. TWO In November, the thoroughfare plays host to the Beaufort Street Festival —Perth’s largest street party. Featuring everything from guerilla yarn-bombing, fashion parades and art exhibitions to food and wine stalls, it draws over 80,000 each year. THREE It might not be haute cuisine, but the Saturday sausage sizzles at legendary Bavarian butcher Elmar’s Smallgoods are a weekly Beaufort Street ritual. FIVE BAR 33


EL PUBLICO 34


PLANET BOOKS

URBAN LEGEND

If Perth’s alternative music scene is anything to go by, nothing sparks creativity quite like isolation. Housed in the distinctive red building on the corner of Beaufort and Walcott Streets, community radio station RTRFM is fertile breeding ground for Perth’s local bands. Featuring 50 programs spanning genres such as indie rock, indigenous music, electronica and experimental, it’s proof that the tyranny of distance is no match for musical talent.

SEE “Tandem”—a bronze sculpture that’s also a canineinspired tribute to the street’s offbeat nature on the corner of Beaufort and Vincent. DO Sift through art books, cult comics and lovingly stapled zines at Planet Books —Beaufort Street’s temple to alternative culture and literary ephemera. BUY A bunch of hot pink tulips from the corner of Chatsworth and Beaufort Streets —the area’s unofficial flower corner. TASTE Vintage cheese, interesting wine and rare condiments at a neighbourhood providore. SMELL The spirit of transformation engulf the streetscape, thanks to laneway murals, bathtubs sprouting flowers and other left-field public art projects. 35


AT A GLANCE

KM

8PM An arthouse gem at

DISTANCE FROM CBD

2.5km

Luna Leederville followed by a counter meal at a retro burger joint

POPULATION 2,943 MEDIAN AGE 31

TRANSPORT Accessible via Leederville train station & the free Green CAT shuttle

CAFÉS ON OXFORD ST 10 SCOTT ST

RICHMOND ST

LOFTUS RD

7

MELROSE ST

LEGEND

2

DE EP ILL RV DE LEE

Cycle routes Free Wifi available in town centre area LANDMARKS 1 The Leederville Hotel 2 Luna Palace Cinemas 3 Kailis Brothers Fish Market 4 Old Leederville Post Office 5 Medibank Stadium 6 Venables Park 7 Leederville TAFE 8 Oxford Reserve

36

OXFORD ST

WY

Parks

5

F ELL CH MIT

Train Station

4

VINCENT ST

1

LEEDERVILLE

E

W

S

CARR PL NE

3 8

N

KEITH FRAME PARK

WC

AS

TLE

ST

6


A slice of urban bohemia, Leederville pits oldschool tradition against indomitable creativity and welcomes free-thinkers and trailblazers with open arms. Leederville’s streets are lined with quirky shops and vintage boutiques and hum with eateries and drinking dens that take cues from the past. But despite its love affair with all things retro, this village is a magnet for the city’s cultural vanguard.


WORD ON THE STREET

“Siphon or French Press?”

LEEDERVILLE HOTEL

URBAN LEGEND

It’s difficult to imagine Perth as a pizza capital—unless you witness the legendary queues snaking out of Little Caesar’s in Oxford Street. Established by Theo Kalogeracos in the hillside suburb of Mundaring, the humble pizzeria has attracted some serious accolades including a World Champion Pizza Maker title awarded to its in-house pizza maestro in 2010. However, Little Caesar’s doles out more than just addictive slices—Kalogeracos’ passion for music has seen its menu double as a snappy source of rock’ n’roll trivia. Try the popular Jane’s Addiction or the Flaming Lips—a fiery concoction of mozzarella and Japanese mayonnaise. 38

SAYERS FOOD

TYPICAL LOCAL

Whether they live in glossy apartments or charming townhouses, Leederville locals thrive on hard work and good times. Here, arty young couples rear stylish offspring and stockbrokers reinvent themselves by opening eccentric restaurants and bars. Leederville plays host to vagrants, artists and career types but its citizens are all fuelled by underground thrills.


SEE Fairy lights set the streetscape ablaze at the Light Up Leederville Carnival, the precinct’s highvoltage community festival. DO Cure your oyster craving via a trip to Kailis Brothers Fish Market, Perth’s longtime seafood Mecca. BUY Vintage vinyl to impress your musicmad pal. TASTE Greek dolmades and Spanish chorizo— Leederville’s nod to Mediterranean fare. SMELL Heartstopping machiattos ground via designer espresso machines.

JUS BURGERS 39


In North Perth, you can buy macarons made by a Parisian pastry chef, browse one-off pieces by an iconic fashion designer, ask a service attendant to fill your car with petrol and swap commercial radio for the sounds of a homegrown band. A family-friendly village where old-fashioned values abound. URBAN LEGEND

Despite its civilised present incarnation, North Perth’s origins are a lot murkier. The precinct used to sit on the Third Swamp—a chain of lakes that spanned the distance between East Perth and Herdsman and served as campsite for Nyoongar tribes, 19th century travellers and miners hoping to strike it rich during the goldrush.

FIORENTINA


THREE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ONE Held every Saturday morning

at a nearby primary school, North Perth’s Kyilla Community Farmers’ Market serves up local produce, homemade pasta and bacon and egg rolls worth sacrificing your weekend sleep-in. TWO Fiorentina on Angove Street is a go-to destination for cannoli fiends—its award-winning take on this Italian delicacy is nothing short of sublime. THREE Featuring blockbuster acts and homegrown talent, North Perth institution the Rosemount Hotel is a must for live music fans.

ROSEMOUNT HOTEL

DISTANCE FROM CBD

KM

YORK ST

M

O

LEGEND ST

Parks

WASLEY ST

Cycle routes

FORREST ST

Free Wifi available in various cafes & businesses

ALMA RD

GROSVENOR RD

ST

CHELMSFORD RD

RS

T

RT FO

RY

ST

AU

MA

BE

IAM LL

WE

WI

DO

HYDE PARK

ST

VINCENT ST 5

EN

E

W

TH BURT ST RD

HYDE ST

GL

N

U

RAGLAN RD ETHEL ST

LEAKE ST

CLAVERTON ST

O

TT

ALMA RD

M

O

VIEW ST

N

C

1

NORFOLK ST

CHARLES ST

2

ST

AL

VE

W

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3

ALBERT ST

FITZGERALD ST

4

FARMER ST

AN

2.5km

LANDMARKS 1 The Rosemount

Hotel

2 North Perth Town

Hall

3 Old North Perth

Police Station

4 Woodville Reserve 5 Hyde Park

S

41


AT A GLANCE

4PM A facial at your

3km

favourite beautician followed by a catch-up with a girlfriend at a buzzing coffee shop.

POPULATION 20,000 (City of Subiaco) MEDIAN AGE 37

TRANSPORT Subiaco train station, on the Fremantle line

DISTANCE FROM CBD

KM

SALVADO RD

TIGHE

HO

1

BAGOT RD 6

HAMERSLEY ST

DAGLISH

UNION ST

HEYTESBURY RD

HENSMAN RD

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IL

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HAY ST

TOWNSHEND RD

N

RD

ROBERTS RD

ROKEBY RD

BARKER RD

4

E

3

2

HAY ST

45

W

MUELLER PARK

SUBIACO

ST

NUMBER OF HAIR SALONS

E WAY PD RAIL

STATION ST

ST D O 5

NICHOLSON RD

AS

ST

M

O

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LEGEND

Train Station

Parks

LANDMARKS 1 Subiaco Hotel 4 Subiaco Museum

42

2 Regal Theatre 5 Station Street Markets

3 Subiaco Oval 6 Subiaco Arts Centre


An art-loving precinct where heritage architecture and an interesting nightlife create an urban symphony that’s impossible to forget. Here, you can catch a matinee at The Regal before strolling down a backstreet to find a gallery-cum-café. Rokeby Road and Hay Street are home to independent retailers and trailblazing eateries while pocketsized wine nooks are lending a new accessibility to Subiaco’s trademark glitz.


THREE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ONE Subiaco is prime hunting ground for Perth’s vintage lovers and antiques enthusiasts. Explore Rokeby and Nicholson Roads for industrial furniture, preloved armchairs and elegant Art Deco lighting. TWO The Theatre Gardens in Bagot Road double as a postcard-perfect backdrop for a Saturday afternoon picnic. Make sure you visit the Subiaco Farmers’ Market beforehand. THREE Maverick art space The Corner Gallery is shaking up Subiaco’s creative establishment by championing exhibitions by up-and-coming street artists. FLY HOME 44


WORD ON THE STREET

“Wine o’clock?”

TYPICAL LOCAL

Subiaco is home to professional couples who combine high-powered careers with domestic bliss. They live in classic townhouses with backyard vegie patches and they spend weekends shopping for fresh produce and chasing cultural thrills. Although they enjoy their proximity to the city, when it comes to their own neighbourhood they’ll never quite have their fill.

SEVA FRANGOS ART 45


BISTRO DES ARTISTES

URBAN LEGEND

A few days after migrating from Iraq to Australia, artist Ayad paid a visit to Jackson’s, an iconic West Australian art supply store, to buy modeling clay to begin a new sculpture. He was so startled by the trademark local friendliness that he thought that he might have arrived in paradise. Perched on Forrest Walk, just off Rokeby Road, Arrive to Paradise is a bronze tribute to Ayad’s first encounter with Subiaco. Erected in 2012, the three-meter sculpture—which features a chesterfield lounge chair crowned by a pair of angels—nods to the contribution of migrants and the possibilities of a new life. It also plays a starring role in tourist photo frenzies while providing tired shoppers with temporary respite.

46


SEE An off-Broadway show at The Regal Theatre followed by a late night martini at resident watering hole, the Attic Bar. DO Surrender to a slice of bohemia at Juanita’s —an art supply storecum-drinkery operated by celebrated WA painter, Murray Gill . BUY Organic carrots and freshly baked brioche at the Subiaco Farmers’ Market on Saturdays from 8am–12.30pm. TASTE A sparkling take on duck l’orange courtesy of French culinary maestro Alain Fabregues. SMELL The scent of cultural awakening. SUBI FARMERS’ MARKETS 47


Lined with elegant townhouses and heritage buildings, Mount Hawthorn is a village high on subtle charm. Here, third generation shopkeepers share pavement space with sartorial boutique owners and artisans make dough for bread and pizza lovingly and by hand. Mount Hawthorn is a place of daily rituals, where unwinding is an art. If you surrender to its low-key rhythm, you will find an enclave with real heart.

THE JAZZ CELLAR


URBAN LEGEND

Mount Hawthorn’s Anzac Cottage breathes new life into the old adage “it’s all in a day’s work.” Built over 24 hours in 1916 to house a wounded soldier upon his return from Gallipoli, the construction of this cottage was a remarkable display of community spirit—over 200 locals rallied to lay the foundations and roll out the lawn. Open to the public on the first Sunday of every month, Anzac Cottage might be Australia’s first war memorial but it’s also a striking tribute to the power of neighbourly bonds.

NEW NORCIA BAKERY

GREEN ST

DISTANCE FROM CBD

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BONDI ST

4km

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DO LON

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BOR

8 2

ST EDIN DUN E ST EAR ESP

EDIN

HOBART ST

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OXFORD ST

HAWTHORN ST

4

S

K SHA

KALGOORLIE ST

THE BOULEVARDE

FEDERATION ST

SASSE AV

EAST ST

1

6

FAIRFIELD ST

BERRYMAN ST

ASHBY ST

E

W WOODSTOCK ST FLINDERS ST

7

COOGEE ST

BRADY ST

PURSLOWE ST

3

MATLOCK ST

TASMAN ST

BUXTON ST

EGINA ST

MILTON ST

UG

HB

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ANZAC RD 5

LEGEND

Parks

Cycle routes

Free Wifi available in various cafes & businesses

LANDMARKS 1 Anzac Cottage 5 Oxford Hotel

2 The Paddington Alehouse 3 The Jazz Cellar 4 The Mezz 6 Tredways Shoes 7 Menzies Park 8 Axford Park 49


AT A GLANCE KM

DISTANCE FROM CBD

6km

3:30PM A Little Creatures

pale ale in the sundappled courtyard of the Broken Hill Hotel—a Victoria Park fixture for over 100 years POPULATION 35,779 MEDIAN AGE 34

V IC T

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PA R

TRANSPORT Accessible via Burswood, Victoria Park, Carlisle and Oats Street train stations or bus routes 170 and 179

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LEGEND

Train Station

N

LANDMARKS W

E

S

50

1 The Broken Hill Hotel 2 Edward Millen Home 3 The Balmoral Hotel

4 Victoria Park Hotel 5 Crown Casino

Parks


The Town of Victoria Park is a riot of flavours, colours and textures. This lively precinct’s global influences are the equivalent of a world culinary passport, thanks to a multi-ethnic population and an emerging foodie and coffee culture. Here, Vietnamese entrepreneurs and Turkish store owners compare notes at bus stops and café managers spearhead eco-friendly projects that keep the precinct’s spirit of cultural diversity alive.


WORD ON THE STREET

“Midnight falafel?”

URBAN LEGEND

ANTZ IN YA PANTS

THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ONE Albany Highway is home

to two distinct café strips—the eastern side is heavy on hip caffeine joints but head west for traces of European-inspired cafe culture. TWO Victoria Park is a magnet for urban farmers and locavores. Found in Read Park, the Victoria Park Community Garden offers locals individual lots for nursing their favourite spring vegetable to life. 52

Established in 1912 by local midwife Elizabeth Baillie, East Victoria Park’s foreboding Edward Millen Home could double as the setting for a modern-day ghost story. Built as a maternity hospital for unwed mothers, the Federationstyle building has since experienced several dark incarnations—it housed victims of the Spanish Flu Epidemic and served as a convalescent home for returned World War II soldiers before it was converted into an institution for disturbed teenagers in the 1960s before it was boarded up in 1977. Although the building now at times plays host to community events—giving it a fresh new lease on life—rumours of ghost sightings and otherworldly activity still nod to its shadowy past.


SEE Cake-shaped bins and oversized arrows on local pavements—Victoria Park is the go-to suburb for left-field public art. DO Spot dolphins while you pedal along the foreshore on your way to morning coffee. BUY A retro alarm clock or chirpy tableware from a local design store. TASTE Spicy tahini and homemade babaganoush. SMELL The heady aromas of nearby Swansea Street Market—equal parts Asian bazaar and Middle Eastern souk. Victoria Park’s dining scene has earned the moniker “The UN of Food”. 53


This elegant village combines style and substance in equal parts, thanks to its European bistros, assured design culture and its buoyant emerging and established fashion scene. THREE THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW ONE Tiny Avion Way is a

secret mecca for the city’s fashion set—it’s home to boutiques by homegrown design maestros such as Poppy Lissiman and Alvin Fernandez. TWO Whether you like your eggs poached or scrambled, brunch in Claremont is religion. Try buzzy coffeehouse Typika or explore the eateries that line the laneways. THREE Family-friendly Claremont Quarter is a retail obsessive’s paradise. It’s home to an imaginative fashion edit, interesting eateries and free parking facilities. TYPIKA


LOCAL LEGEND

In 1913, Jack Williams, a well-known horse drawn cab driver, provided transport services to Claremont citizens. Williams, also known as “Horsey”, ferried boarders from Methodist Ladies College to the train station, attended to mischief-makers who had been arrested and was a portof-call for midwifes requiring speedy hospital transit for patients. When motor taxis took over in the 1930s, Horsey slowly went out of business. He retired his last cab in 1944. 3PM Petit fours and English

DISTANCE FROM CBD

KM

Breakfast sipped from a delicate porcelain cup

9km

CLAREMONT GUGERI ST 1

O’BEIRNE ST

WORD ON THE STREET

VIEW TCE

‘Art in Maude Jackson Lane’

LN

BAY

H LN

AY

NW

CHURC

AVIO 2

M JACKAUDE SON LN

LEURA AV

ST QUENTINS AV

RAB BLE

L LN

LT D

WA

BOVEL

NG RD

STIRLI

3

4 OLD THEA TRE

LN

STIRLING HWY CLAREMONT PARK

LEGEND

Train stations Railway

Parking Cycle routes

Taxi station Parks

Bicycle station Free Wifi available in various public areas

LANDMARKS 1 The Claremont Hotel 3 Claremont Quarter

N

W

2 Claremont Library & Community Hub 4 Old Theatre Lane

E

S

55


LIFE’S LITTLE ESSENTIALS BASIC INFORMATION

Fast Facts Western Australia, Australia’s largest state, is 2,525,500 sqm - about the same size as Western Europe. Dial code +618 Tipping Although tipping is not compulsory in Australia, if you’re happy with service, you can tip ten percent on top of the bill. Business hours 9am–5:30pm, Mon–Fri Shopping times Shops, department stores and retail centres are open 9am–5:30pm, Monday to Friday. Many suburban shopping centres are open until 9pm on Thursday and the CBD trades until 9pm on a Friday. Shops are usually also open on weekends. GETTING AROUND

Train Trains run to and from the city from Midland, Armadale, Mandurah, Joondalup and Fremantle every 15 minutes, with extra services during peak times. You can save money with a SmartRider, a card that allows you to use train, bus and ferry services. Bus Bus services depart regularly from Wellington bus station and Barrack Street to the outer suburbs via inner 56

suburbs such as Mount Lawley and Highgate, Victoria Park and Subiaco. These services run less frequently on Sundays and after 5pm. CAT Perth is serviced by an efficient public transport system and a free shuttle service, CAT, that runs every 10 minutes and finish early in the evening. The CAT (Central Area Transit) is a free shuttle service departing from various locations around the city. Ferry Services depart between Barrack Street and Mends Street Jetty in South Perth from 7am to 7:30 pm every day. Taxi Book a taxi - www.swantaxis.com.au or by dialing 131330. Airport Perth Airport is 20 kms east of the city. You can travel to and from the airport via the airport shuttle, Perth Connect. Tickets are $15 each way. Taxis are also available and it is a 20-30 minute journey. IMPORTANT CONTACTS

Emergency Dial 000 for a 24-hour emergency response services (fire, ambulance, police) Police assistance 131 444


SUPPORTERS

Published & produced by Urban Walkabout L2, 452 William St, Perth WA 6003 Head Office 120A Devonshire Street, Surry Hills, NSW 2010 T 02 9698 4115 F 02 9310 5956 W urbanwalkabout.com Publisher Victoria Moxey Contributing Editor Neha Kale Layout Design Alexandra De Bonis Production Katrina Adams Account Manager Georgina Strain Photography by Stephen Nicholls Š 2013 Urban Walkabout Circulation: 50,000 copies The information included in this guide is correct at the time of printing. Urban Walkabout regrets that they cannot accept liabilities from errors or omissions contained in this publication, however caused. This publication is also available for download at urbanwalkabout.com


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MT HAWTHORN A laid-back village peddling hidden haunts, charming providores and community pride

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LEEDERVILLE Well-loved eateries and retro addictions converge in this offbeat creative hive

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SUBIACO Home to imaginative eateries, a polished art scene and a colourful Saturday market

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WEST PERTH B Kings Park, thi is a suburb on t

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CLAREMONT A well-heeled enclave that’s heavy on homegrown fashion and aesthetic thrills

9km DISTANCE FROM CBD

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NORTHBRIDGE Creativity and cosmopolitanism collide in this refuge for aspiring urbanites

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PERTH CBD

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TOWN OF VICTORIA PARK Bold public art and a globetrotting food scene set to a nonstop cultural pulse

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TOWN OF VICTORIA PARK

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EAST PERTH This riverside haven lures sports fiends, families and city slickers

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PERTH CBD A fast-evolving urban centre that's home to small bars and big ideas

EAST PERTH

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Bound by leafy is stylish locale the up

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NORTH PERTH

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BEAUFORT ST A community of cultural tastemakers with designs on eating, drinking and living well

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NORTH PERTH A friendly enclave that blends artisanal concepts with neighbourhood spirit


Pieces of Perth 2013