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Great Basin National Park
Set near the Nevada–Utah border, 67 miles east of Ely, less-frequented Great Basin National Park is a land of surprising diversity, where 13,063foot Wheeler Peak rises from the stark desert; fragile, cool Lehman Caves — a massive marble cavern — houses a staggering number of stalagmites, stalactites, helictites, popcorn, flowstone and more than 300 rare shields; and hikes reveal glacial lakes and ancient, twisty bristlecone pines.
Home to Native Americans for thousands of years, these days it’s farmers, ranchers, sheepherders and Mormons who call the Great Basin home. Take a step back in time to view rock art and paintings in Upper Pictograph Cave and explore the excavated Fremont village at Baker Archaeological Site (Baker Village), where you can see the remains of a Fremont Indian village, occupied from about 1220 to 1295 C.E.
The Flora And Fauna
Dry desert valleys meet sky-high mountain ranges, playas, fascinating rock formations, fossils, springs, creeks, caves and a lone glacier in a land populated by the mountain lions, snakes, jackrabbits and Clark’s nutcrackers.
More than 800 different plant species thrive in the park and South Snake Range, 13 of them considered sensitive species. Especially adapted to the challenging terrain, some — like four-winged saltbush — must contend with, and therefore excrete, high concentrations of salt in the soil. Others have developed modified leaves to avoid losing water through evapotranspiration.
Keep watch for bighorn sheep on talus slopes, at least 10 species of bats, porcupines and yellowbellied marmots, several of which are designated of special concern.
The Weather
A cold, high-elevation desert averaging less than 10 inches of rain each year, most of Great Basin’s precipitation comes from snow. Given there is nearly an 8,000-foot difference in elevation between the valley floor and pinnacle of Wheeler Peak, weather conditions vary. Late spring and summer can bring hot conditions to the valley, while snowmelt remains at higher elevations. Featuring low relative humidity and significant temperature swings from day to night, the park is prone to severe afternoon thunderstorms and snow any time of year at high elevations.
Visit the park’s website to check weather and road conditions.
THE HIKES, DRIVES AND VIEWPOINTS
WHEELER PEAK TRAIL VIA STELLA LAKE TRAIL
Steep and exposed, the 8.2-mile trek along the out-and-back Wheeler Peak Trail via the Stella Lake Trail rewards you with incredible mountain views. Start this one early in the day due to the risk of afternoon storms.
Bristlecone Pine And Glacier Trail
The 4.5-mile, out-and-back Bristlecone Pine and Glacier Trail is not to be missed as it journeys through the park’s ancient conifers amid a boulder-strewn streambed, past steep cliffs, through wildflowers in open expanses, and to Nevada’s only glacier for a front-and-center view.
Alpine Lakes Loop
The 3-mile Alpine Lakes Loop, which starts at the end of Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive (more on that to follow), brings you to two glassy alpine lakes, Stella and Teresa, with marvelous views of Wheeler Peak.
Lehman Cave
The park’s main attraction is lavishly decorated, limestone Lehman Cave, an easy, .4-mile loop. Enter the cave on a ranger-led tour, which you should reserve in advance.
Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive
A true mountain road, 12-mile Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive weaves through the South Snake Range, ascending 4,000 feet upward, offering pristine views of the rugged, harsh and hauntingly beautiful Great Basin Desert. En route, appreciate the impressive range of ecosystems by motoring past fragrant sagebrush “oceans,” stands of pinyon pine, rough-looking curl-leaf mountain mahogany, a collection of conifers and families of aspens, keeping watch for marmots, mule deer, jackrabbits and coyotes.