POWDER DAYS
HANDS OF TIME
TRACK TALES
KICKING UP DUST
ARCHITECTURAL AWE
AND... THE ULTRAS 2024
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THE JOY OF DISCOVERY
IN THIS ISSUE
13 • Welcome Letter
Why discerning travellers have much to look forward to this winter and beyond. By Alison Gilmore
19 • Defining Luxury
Global Hotel Alliance celebrates the best of the best in luxury travel. By Julie Alpine
24 • Gilded Gala
Sights and scenes from the glittering, 20th-anniversary event at Kensington Palace. By Ultratravel editors
36 • Refined Precision
A new crop of timepieces from maisons established and up-and-coming has got experts buzzing. By Chris Hall
43 • Railway Reveries
Slow travel gets an opulent upgrade, with a host of global routes offering epic views as standard. By Nigel Tisdall
46 • Rarefied Schussing
From the Alps to Wyoming, skiers are welcoming a dazzling array of resort refinements. By Felice Hardy
WINTER 2024/25
COVER IMAGE: TIGNES © TIGNES TOURISME
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Farhad Heydari Farhad@ultratravel.com @MrFarhadHeydari
SENIOR EDITOR Julie Alpine
54 • Desert Drive
An all-women team takes to Saudi Arabia’s golden sands in a rally that champions empowerment. By Fee Drummond
58 • Towering Achievements
All herald the cutting-edge architectural wonders that are finally seeing the light of day. By Jonathan Bell
66 • Power Player
Mercedes embraces the future with its monstrously desirable G580. By Adam Hay-Nicholls © 2024 Published by PGP Media Limited on behalf of UHC Cayman Holdings Limited, Northside House, Mount Pleasant, Barnet, Hertfordshire, EN4 9EE, England, UK. All rights reserved. While every effort is made to ensure the accuracy of information contained in this publication, no responsibility can be accepted for any errors or omissions nor for any unsolicited manuscripts, photographs or artwork submitted. The information contained in this publication is correct at the time of going to press. Views expressed are not necessarily those of the publisher or UHC Cayman Holdings Limited. Ultratravel is a registered trademark.
CHAIRMAN Nick Perry Nick@ultratravel.com @MrNickPerry
CREATIVE DIRECTOR Andrew Cowan
CONTRIBUTORS
Jonathan Bell, Fee Drummond, Chris Hall, Felice Hardy, Adam Hay-Nicholls, David Pearce, Nigel Tisdall
@Ultratravel ultratravel.com
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Where next?
Welcome to ILTM 2024. We are delighted to be partnering once again with and its dedicated ILTM edition to bring you a first look at what’s new and what’s changed in the world of luxury travel since we last met.
Our industry has continued to evolve as luxury travellers are inspired by the increasing possibilities and opportunities in travel. Across the board, the luxury brands that take part in ILTM are listening to their guests and putting exclusivity, diversity and responsibility at the top of their priority lists, and, equally, considering new trends such as solo travel and the importance of
brand affiliations. As you turn each page, we hope that the irresistible contents will inspire you, as you think about where in the world you want to spend your well-deserved leisure time over the next 12 months and beyond, and how you can make a positive impact wherever you choose to go.
The ILTM event Portfolio allows your travel planner to explore the world and find those standout experiences that will inspire you. ILTM covers the world, with ILTM Asia Pacific, ILTM North America, ILTM Latin America and ILTM Africa events taking place each year.
Happy and safe travels!
“Luxury travellers are inspired by increasing possibilities and opportunities”
Alison Gilmore Portfolio Director ILTM Events
Turn
43 for the lowdown on Journey Beyond’s Australian rail routes, and many more
SUITE DREAMS
Pan Pacific London’s sumptuous new suites have arrived, with its “perfectly suited” packages offering next-level comfort... butler, optional
“Enjoy access to the hotel’s SENSORY
Wellbeing Floor, with its high performance gym, infinity pool and spa treatment rooms”
Arriving into London’s Square Mile on a damp winter’s day, one might think it nothing more than a daydream, the idea of a butler waiting to seamlessly transport you from Liverpool Street station to your accommodation for the night. And silly, of course, to dare hope that the accommodation in question be less than a two-minute walk away – an urban sanctuary with a home-from-home ambience, promising both tranquillity and tropical warmth, not to mention world-class dining, sultry drinking dens, stateof-the-art wellbeing facilities, impeccable service and a hitherto unseen standard of luxury across its collection of sophisticated suites.
Well, it’s no pipe dream, because Pan Pacific London – just a 50-minute Tube journey from Heathrow on the Elizabeth Line – has recently unveiled 42 newly styled suites that combine flair and functionality to astonishing effect. Designed by Singapore-based FDAT, each one cossets with tactile comfort: think wooden floors that feel warm underfoot and sumptuous, hand-tufted rugs. Octagonal lamps nod to cultural symbols of prosperity, striking wallpaper is inspired by Singapore’s renowned Botanical Gardens, and a serene, Pacific Ocean-invoking palette further adds to the aesthetic appeal. Floor-to-ceiling windows maximise light and provide standout views of the City below, while marble bathrooms and generous walk-in wardrobes only heighten the risk of guests never wanting to leave.
“The new suites offer a sense of discovery,” says Donovan Soon, Founding Director of FDAT. “Each suite not only looks beautiful, but also inspires and evokes exploration, promising each stay a memorable journey.”
To mark the launch, Pan Pacific London has introduced three new introductory “perfectly suited” packages, each tailored to meet the unique preferences of individual guests – whether coming for a family getaway, a milestone celebration or on business. For families, the two-bedroom Bishopsgate Suite offers the freedom to dial up or down playtime with plenty of games and books on hand, personalised children’s turn-down treats, a Singa’s Den Adventure Tepee and access to the children’s Singa Cub Club, plus a £100 hotel credit. The Walbrook Suite, meanwhile, is ideally suited to celebratory stays: guests can look forward to a bottle of bubbles on ice, a pair of bespoke monogrammed pillowcases and a vinyl record player with curated vinyl library. And the Devonshire Suite? It seriously delivers on the business-travel front: productivity comes easy with an ergonomic desk, in-room fitness equipment and that aforementioned butler service – as does some well-deserved R&R.
Guests staying in the new suites will also enjoy access to the hotel’s SENSORY Wellbeing Floor, with its high-performance gym, infinity pool and spa treatment rooms, as well as to the SENSORY Sleep Programme, making for a stay that soothes both body and mind. Next on the cards, teleportation to Pan Pacific London from Heathrow Terminal 5? Watch this space. panpacificlondon.com
DEFINING LUXURY
GHA DISCOVERY and joined forces to celebrate the pinnacle of travel excellence at The ULTRAs 2024. Julie Alpine has the lowdown
GREEN GODDESS
The Apurva Kempinski Bali was crowned “Best Sustainable Hotel”
With Global Hotel Alliance (GHA) and Ultratravel magazine both celebrating their 20th anniversaries this year, the 2024 outing of The ULTRAs (Ultimate Luxury Travel Related Awards) sparkled like never before. Recognising the best of the best in global travel, this year’s ceremony – spearheaded by Nick Perry, Chairman of multimedia brand Ultratravel, in partnership with GHA DISCOVERY – lit up Kensington Palace, with the luxury travel world’s finest assembled under its gilded roof. And, as any discerning traveller knows, there are few better places to raise a glass to this year’s winners than within the State Apartments and Orangery of this historic royal residence, in the company of the elite of the industry and beyond, enjoying an evening of pure elegance.
The awards cast the spotlight on the crème de la crème across 18 categories, from hotels and airlines to destinations that truly delight. With 28 million GHA DISCOVERY members
weighing in, the magnificent occasion not only showcased those who are setting today’s gold standards, but also reflected a growing global passion for transformative, immersive, first-class travel experiences. Hosted by British TV personalities Natalie Pinkham and Gethin Jones, and attended by personalities including HRH Princess Eugenie and Olympic champion athlete Dame Kelly Holmes, the atmosphere was electric, to say the least.
The award for the much-coveted “Ultratravel Collection Hotel of the Year” went to the exquisite Portrait Milano, while The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts was a worthy winner of “Luxury Brand of the Year.” The Surrey, A Corinthia Hotel in New York took home “Best New Hotel”, and The Apurva Kempinski Bali was crowned “Best Sustainable Hotel”. Rounding out the hotel accolades, Lutetia Paris was named “Best Hotel in Europe”, Capella Sydney led in AsiaPacific, and The Leela Palace New Delhi won “Best Hotel in the Middle East & India”.
The travel world’s perennial favourite, Dubai-based Emirates, soared to victory as “Best Airline in the World”, with Singapore’s verdant Changi Airport securing “Best Airport”. A special nod went to Qatar Airways as “Most Innovative Airline in the Last 20 Years” – a special anniversary award marking Ultratravel’s two decades of bringing readers all the need-to-know news in luxury travel.
Chris Hartley, CEO of GHA, said: “The ULTRAs are a testament to excellence in luxury travel, built on the views of millions who prize the world’s finest.”
The evening served as a suitably sophisticated tribute to a milestone year, leaving Ultratravel’s devoted readers and GHA DISCOVERY members more inspired than ever to travel, the coveted wins serving as a world map to the industry’s brightest stars.
“There
are few better places to raise a glass to this year’s winners than within Kensington Palace’s State Apartments and Orangery”
ADDRESSES OF DISTINCTION
Opposite page, top and middle: The Leela Palace New Delhi, “Best Hotel in the Middle East & India”; bottom: Dame Kelly Holmes and Nick Perry at the starry event
This page, top left: Capella Sydney, “Best Hotel in Asia Pacific”; middle left: Lutetia Paris, “Best Hotel in Europe”; bottom left: The Surrey, A Corinthia Hotel, New York, “Best New Hotel”; above: Portrait Milano, “Ultratravel Collection Hotel of the Year”
For more information or to join the programme for free, visit ghadiscovery.com or download the GHA DISCOVERY mobile app.
Celebrating Twenty Years
of the world’s largest alliance of hotel brands
The Leela Palace Udaipur
Anantara Iko Mauritius Resort & Villas
Yesterday , our story began with a vision. T oday , we stand on the shoulders of two decades of success. Tomorrow , a world of possibilities unfolds before us.
Connecting millions of travellers worldwide, with over 40 independent brands, spanning over 800 hotels, across more than 100 countries.
Gran Hotel Manzana Kempinski La Habana
GILDED GALA
ULTRAs 2024 winners & runners-up
Airlines/Airports
BEST PREMIUM ECONOMY
CLASS
WINNER: Virgin Atlantic
Runners-up
Emirates
British Airways
BEST BUSINESS CLASS
WINNER: Qatar Airways
Runners-up
Singapore Airlines
Virgin Atlantic
BEST FIRST CLASS
WINNER: Singapore Airlines
Runners-up
Emirates
Etihad Airways
BEST AIRLINE IN THE WORLD
WINNER: Emirates
Runners-up
Qatar Airways
Singapore Airlines
BEST AIRPORT IN THE WORLD
WINNER: Singapore Changi Airport
Runners-up
Hamad International Airport, Doha
Dubai International Airport
Hotels
BEST HOTEL IN EUROPE
WINNER: Lutetia, Paris
Runners-up
Corinthia London
Pan Pacific London
BEST HOTEL IN THE AMERICAS & CARIBBEAN
WINNER: Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort
Runners-up
Kempinski Hotel Cancun
Riggs Washington DC
BEST HOTEL IN ASIA PACIFIC
WINNER: Capella Sydney
Runners-up
Sindhorn Kempinski Bangkok
Capella Bangkok
BEST HOTEL IN THE MIDDLE EAST & INDIA
WINNER: The Leela Palace, New Delhi
Runners-up
Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort by Anantara
The Leela Palace Jaipur
BEST HOTEL IN AFRICA & INDIAN
OCEAN
WINNER: The Royal Livingstone
Victoria Falls Zambia Hotel by Anantara
Runners-up
Anantara Kihavah Maldives
Elewana Tarangire Treetops
BEST NEW HOTEL IN THE WORLD
WINNER: The Surrey, A Corinthia Hotel, New York
Runners-up n/a
BEST SUSTAINABLE HOTEL
The Apurva Kempinski Bali
Runners-up n/a
ULTRATRAVEL COLLECTION HOTEL OF THE YEAR
WINNER: Portrait Milano
Runners-up
Hotel Café Royal London
The Westbury Dublin
LUXURY BRAND OF THE YEAR
WINNER: The Leela Palaces, Hotels & Resorts
Runners-up
Capella Hotels and Resorts
Lungarno Collection
Others
BEST LUXURY CRUISE LINE
WINNER: Regent Seven Seas Cruises
Runners-up
Seabourn
Silversea
FAVOURITE COUNTRY FOR A HOLIDAY
WINNER: Italy
Runners-up
Australia
Japan
20th AwardsAnniversary
MOST INNOVATIVE AIRLINE IN LAST 20 YEARS (SPONSORED BY ITC)
WINNER: Qatar Airways
BEST HOTEL BRAND IN LAST 20 YEARS (SPONSORED BY ITC)
WINNER: Anantara Hotels & Resorts
On 7 November, the grand setting of Kensington Palace in London became the epicentre of luxury travel, as industry leaders gathered for the 20th-anniversary edition of the Ultimate Luxury Travel Related Awards (The ULTRAs).
This milestone celebration underscored the awards’ enduring reputation as the gold standard of excellence in hospitality and travel. Hosted by renowned TV personalities Natalie Pinkham and Gethin Jones, the evening welcomed an eclectic mix of attendees, including global executives from the travel, aviation and hotel sectors, alongside distinguished athletes, tastemakers and prominent cultural figures.
The evening began with warm welcomes from Chris Hartley, CEO of Global Hotel Alliance (GHA), and Nick Perry, Chairman of Ultratravel Limited, who reflected on the shared 20-year journey of Ultratravel and GHA. Guests enjoyed the palace’s regal backdrop, where networking flourished amid the splendour of The State Apartments and The Orangery.
Highlights included exclusive insights into the past two decades of luxury travel evolution, a celebration of key milestones and a toast to the future. The evening’s ambience was further elevated by sparkling presentation, exquisite culinary offerings and a palpable sense of camaraderie among attendees, making it a truly unforgettable occasion. Here’s to the next 20 years!
Memorial statue to Diana, Princess of Wales, who lived in Kensington Palace for 15 years
The Orangery at Kensington Palace, seen through Cradle Walk
1. Gethin Jones, HRH Princess Eugenie of York, Dillip Rajakarier, CEO of Minor Hotels, Natalie Pinkham
2. Kensington Palace front entrance 3. The King’s Gallery, venue of the Champagne Reception at The 2024 ULTRAs
4. Dillip Rajakarier, Minor Hotels, Farhad Heydari, Ultratravel, Chris Hartley, CEO of Global Hotel Alliance
5. Nick Perry, HRH Princess Eugenie of York, Jack Brooksbank 6. Guests capturing the moment with selfies in the King’s Gallery 7. The King’s Drawing Room
8. The magnificent Cupola Room in Kensington Palace was a popular spot for photography 9. Good Morning Britain presenter Charlotte Hawkins on the King’s Staircase
1. Dame Kelly Holmes and HRH Princess Eugenie in front of distinguished winners of The 2024 ULTRAs 2. The ULTRAs co-host Gethin Jones, authoress Kathy Lette, James Wyndham, General Manager of Sugar Beach, A Viceroy Resort, St Lucia, The ULTRAs co-host Natalie Pinkham 3. The King’s Staircase 4. Gethin Jones, HRH Princess Eugenie of York, Natalie Pinkham 5. Gethin Jones, Charlotte Hawkins, Valeriano Antonioli, CEO of Lungarno Collection, Natalie Pinkham
6. Mohamed Rafi Mar, Singapore Airlines, with Dame Kelly Holmes
7. Ultratravel magazine Editor-inChief Farhad Heydari, with Founder & Chairman of the Ultratravel brand, Nick Perry 8. The 2024 ULTRAs presentation reception in the Orangery at Kensington Palace 9. Chris Hartley, Global Hotel Alliance
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CARIBBEAN
ANANTARA: BEST IN CLASS
A special mention goes to this stellar industry player
Anantara Hotels & Resorts received a special honour at this year’s ULTRAs in celebration of Ultratravel’s 20th anniversary, taking home the “Best Hotel Brand in the Last 20 Years” award. This award – sponsored by ITC, itself celebrating its 50th birthday this year – reflects Anantara’s exceptional contributions to luxury hospitality and commitment to offering unique experiences.
GHA member Anantara Hotels, Resorts & Spas, launched in 2001 by Minor Hotels, is a luxury hospitality brand that emphasises immersive experiences rooted in local culture and natural beauty. Originating in Thailand, the company has since expanded globally, with a presence in destinations across Asia, the Middle East, Africa, Europe and the Americas. Anantara’s supremely comfortable properties often feature iconic cultural and environmental elements specific to each location. Key to the brand’s ethos is providing “luxury with a purpose”, integrating wellness, environmental conservation and community support into its operations. Ultratravel extends its warmest congratulations to all at Anantara and wishes the brand every continuing success.
“This win reflects Anantara’s exceptional contributions to luxury hospitality and its commitment to offering unique experiences”
From top to bottom: Anantara Convento di Amalfi Grand Hotel, Italy; Anantara Kihavah Maldives Villas; Qasr Al Sarab Desert Resort
by Anantara, Abu Dhabi
THE SHORT
What’s hot, what to buy and what to know, as compiled by
Ultratravel editors
MAKING SCENTS
BAOBAB
An olfactory ode for the home inspired by the beauty of Morocco, a land whose history and mystery is renowned from east to west. baobabcollection.com
GOLDFIELD & BANKS
The Australian brand’s best-selling fragrance, Silky Woods, now comes in a bespoke lacquered bottle reflecting Harrods’ iconic signature green. goldfieldandbanks.com
HIGH NOTE
With tactile, soft-touch buttons, precisely weighted control dial and matching Bluetooth remote, the new R610 music console and Sabre-R speakers from Ruark are a complete stereo system designed to be both seen and heard. Delivering the kind of aesthetic appeal and ease of use uncommonly seen in hi-fi components, the set-up is guaranteed to bring amazing sound and timeless style to any interior. ruarkaudio.com
FACE FORWARD
This comprehensive beauty travel kit from Officine Universelle Buly is a musthave for anyone who wants to take care of their skin wherever they are in the world. The carefully curated selection of skincare essentials from the renowned Parisian apothecary includes everything from toothpaste to shampoos, conditioners, soothing shower oils and moisturising body lotion perfumed by Peruvian heliotrope – and more besides. buly1803.com
LUXURY ACOUSTICS
A company that has been combining innovative technology and effortless musicality with beautiful, luxurious and intuitive design for over 70 years, Marantz introduces the Horizon, a new range that redefines wireless-speaker design. These curvaceous models feature sustainable materials, cutting-edge Marantz Rise amplification and customisable sound via Mirage DSP. With seamless HEOS connectivity, easy-to-navigate controls and iconic aesthetics, they deliver exceptional audio and elegance. marantz.com
SPIRITED AWAY
ROYAL SALUTE
The master of exceptionally aged Scotch whisky, Royal Salute has unveiled a new partnership with visionary fashion designer Harris Reed. royalsalute.com
MARTELL
From famed cognac house Martell comes Noblige Noir, an ultra-aromatic elixir layered with fruity notes for a long, luxurious finish. martell.com
PORTOFINO DRY GIN
The latest release from the Italian label Portofino comes in a bespoke, 5l bottle hand painted by renowned British artist Jemma Powell. portofinogin.com
CRÈME DE LA CRÈME
Nestled in a historic Parisian mansion, one restaurant is redefining French haute cuisine, says David Pearce
THE GARGANTUAN GASTRONOMIC gift that is Paris reveals itself in humble bistros and boîtes and lavish, larger-than-life settings that take the breath away (witness, the Eiffel Tower’s Le Jules Verne). Then, there is Le Clarence. Nestled in the French capital’s prestigious 8th arrondissement near the Grand Palais, this is a place where culinary art meets aristocratic elegance.
Located within a private mansion built in the 19th century and today owned by Domaine Clarence Dillon, the family company behind Château HautBrion, Le Clarence exudes a sense of dining in the private residence of French nobility. Every detail, from the antique furnishings to the contemporary art, has been personally chosen by Prince Robert of Luxembourg, who for over 30 years has led the brand’s journey into gastronomy and hospitality.
The prince’s dedication to excellence recently saw him recognised with the Wine Spectator Distinguished Service Award, celebrating his commitment to world-leading wines and fine dining. As the fourth generation of his family to lead Domaine Clarence Dillon, Prince Robert carries forward the legacy established by his greatgrandfather, Clarence Dillon, who acquired Château Haut-Brion in 1935. He has since taken ownership
“Culinary art meets aristocratic elegance”
YOUR DAY, elevated.
HAUTE PROPERTY
“Chef Christophe Pelé layers flavours and textures in unexpected ways”
of Château La Mission Haut-Brion, Château Quintus, Clarendelle and the Klara family of wines.
Within this stately setting, complete with vaulted ceilings and elegant chandeliers, chef Christophe Pelé reimagines classic Gallic cuisine with a contemporary twist. Each course is designed to be enjoyed in one or two mouthfuls, and dishes are often served as groupings within the menu. For example, red mullet, with tuna heart powder and cream, was served alongside grilled red mullet on the skin with a crusty bread tuile, beef marrow and sea urchin. It was full of bold flavours, from the savouriness of the marrow to the luxurious creaminess of the sea urchin.
Pelé has the utmost of respect for top-quality ingredients, skilfully layering the flavours and textures in unexpected ways. With his relaxed, unpretentious manner, he is often seen in casual attire, which seems only fitting for a chef focused on substance over style. The service is polished yet unobtrusive, executed with a quiet professionalism. No wonder the restaurant has been awarded two Michelin stars.
There’s also an on-site wine shop to peruse, La Cave du Château, which holds an exceptional selection of France’s finest bins, from Le Pin to multiple vintages of Château Haut-Brion. These are accompanied by a fine array of cognac, Armagnac and whisky.
With its three distinct dining rooms, food presented on handmade tableware from Nymphenburg, historical grandeur, refined cuisine, and world-class wine selection, Le Clarence is one of those addresses that the Parisians try to keep to themselves. And why wouldn’t they? It represents an elevated example of culinary savoir faire that supersedes even those spectacular views from the Tour Eiffel (le-clarence.paris)
Clokwise from right: chef Christophe Pelé is at the helm of two-Michelinstarred Le Clarence; a few snapshots of the restaurant’s fine wines, artful dishes and magnificent interiors
DAVID PEARCE
Welcoming
BANGKOK, THAILAND
TO THE SIAM
DEOS MYKONOS
MYKONOS, GREECE &
| LONDON | CANNES | COURCHEVEL | MEGÈVE | PARIS | CORFU
|
| SHANGHAI | BEIJING | CHENGDU | HONG KONG
AMSTERDAM
MYKONOS | CRANS-MONTANA
GSTAAD | GENEVA | JERUSALEM | MAYAN RIVIERA
BANGKOK
REFINED PRECISION
GOLDEN HANDSHAKE
With a bumper crop of new timepieces dialling up excitement in Geneva and beyond, Chris Hall reports on the ones causing all the stir
It is a long-standing tradition in Switzerland – as in much of Europe – that August is a holiday month. The watchmaking industry enjoys an institutional “summer closure”, which can even begin in July and last anywhere from two to four weeks depending on the company. In recent times, the duration of the break has shrunk under the pressures of the “always-on” world in which we operate, but the attitude remains. This downtime is then followed by a flurry of activity; once upon a time it was September and October when watches shown to the world in the spring would actually be available to buy, but this, too, has changed, and now horological connoisseurs can count on a yearround supply of brand-new watches. The post-pandemic emergence of Geneva Watch Days (gva-watch-days.com), a weekend-long festival of watchmaking endeavour in the lakeside city, has become the de facto ceremonial end to the summer break, and in 2024 saw 52 brands unveil new designs. We’ve highlighted some of the best and most significant, as well as other notable new releases from deeper into autumn.
ON THE PULSE
The last time Patek Philippe (patek.com) launched an entirely new collection of watches, Bill Clinton was in the White House. So the arrival in October of the Cubitus, a line of angular, sporty watches that transposed the DNA of its 1970s icon the Nautilus into a new case and dial design, was seismic news in watch circles. Launching in three versions – a flagship calendar watch with a platinum case and a movement boasting six pending patents, and two time-and-date automatics in stainless steel and steel-and-gold – the Cubitus is intended to bolster Patek Philippe’s offering of sportier styles while drawing some customers away from the established Nautilus and Aquanaut collections. It retains the striped dial, hands and bracelet of the Nautilus while providing a more emphatic shape and style; brand president Thierry Stern spoke of his enduring desire to add a square-dialled watch to the family. Crucially, given the popularity of the now-discontinued 5711 Nautilus in stainless steel, the Cubitus 5821/1A offers fans a chance to own a steel bracelet design from Patek Philippe once more.
in space”. Known to aficionados as the “FOIS”, it was first released in 2012 and paid tribute to a 1962 watch worn by astronaut Walter “Wally” Schirra. This year, Omega updated the design with a blue-black dial, a new style of sapphire crystal and – a first for the specific model – a steel bracelet. If these sound like small changes, they were ground-breaking news for fans of the classic chronograph, whose attention to detail is considered by second to none.
Also looking to the past this autumn was Breitling (breitling.com), which celebrates its 140th anniversary this year and released three perpetual calendar chronographs to mark the occasion – in its Premier, Navitimer and Chronomat collections – all encased in 18-carat rose gold and limited in number. Measuring between 42mm and 44mm, the set represents heavyweight watchmaking in every sense, but was a timely reminder that the old guard still has the capacity to expand. A necessary reminder, as most attention at Geneva Watch Days was given to two launches from young, independent watchmakers, both of which had humour at their cores. First off, the record-breaking ThinKing from Russian virtuoso Konstantin Chaykin (chaykin.ru) deflected from its significance with the punny name and jocular dial design (derived from the watchmaker’s most successful range of timepieces to date, the Joker). It is, however, the thinnest mechanical watch ever created, measuring just 1.65mm from top to bottom. Despite entailing some compromises (the watch cannot be set to the right time without being docked with a larger unit), the achievement is quite remarkable, and all the more so given the well-funded efforts from the likes of Bulgari, Piaget and Richard Mille that have competed for the record over the last few years.
While the initial reaction to the Cubitus was that Patek Philippe’s immense brand appeal would ensure a commercial hit regardless of a groundswell of dissenting voices on social media, fans were delighted in September by Omega’s (omegawatches.com) revival of the Speedmaster “first Omega
The other standout release from GWD –the one that emphatically, if temporarily, “broke the internet” for watch geeks – was the fruit (quite literally) of a collaboration between respected high-end indie brand H. Moser & Cie (h-moser.com) and upstart British company Studio Underd0g (underd0g.com), whose most enduring contributions to horology to date have revolved around gastronomically themed dials. Both brands enjoy a self-deprecating sense of humour and relish the chance to make waves, and the duo of watches they created together, under the “Passion Project” banner, was designed to resemble stylised passion fruit halves, in eye-catching purple and orange. To many observers, it represented the apotheosis of
BOX-FRESH
Patek Philippe’s long-awaited Cubitus is anything but boring
current trends for colourful dials and whimsical concepts, but at around £50,000 for the set (which cannot be bought separately), buyers will be entirely serious.
WATCH THIS SPACE
Away from the glittering parades of new watches, there have been other developments to mark in the watch world. In August it was announced that Chanel (chanel.com) had taken a minority stake of undisclosed value in independent watchmaker MB&F – a move the latter described as crucial to its long-term success but not a first step to total control. Chanel has previously invested in other high-end watchmakers including Romain Gauthier and F.P. Journe, and said that its priority was protecting and nurturing the traditional, artisanal craft they represent.
Elsewhere, other smaller brands were also looking to benefit from a dose of corporate collaboration: Malaysian watchmaker Ming teamed up with two US-based independent brands, J.N. Shapiro and Fleming, to form the Alternative Horological Alliance (AHA) (aha.watch), a body designed to promote their interests and capitalise on economies of scale
NO KIDDING
Below: Konstantin Chaykin’s smash-hit Joker isn’t just a pretty face; it also happens to be the thinnest mechanical watch ever made
Right: a high-spec watch that takes its design cues from a passion fruit? Somehow, in the hands of Studio Underd0g and H. Moser & Cie, it works
Below: jump on the stone-dial trend with a Classic Manufacture by Frederique Constant
TIME AND SPACE
Omega’s next-gen Speedmaster is a thrilling reinterpretation of the much-loved, 2012-launched “FOIS”
MAKING WAVES
After a four-year hiatus, FavreLeuba is back in business, with new dive watch the Deep Blue
otherwise unavailable. Its first project was a tantalum watch bracelet – described as “extremely challenging to execute” by the Alliance – that can be ordered to fit watches from any one of the three member brands.
Meanwhile, new brands were making their debuts and old names preparing for a new lease of life. In September, US-based collaboration specialists Massena LAB (massenalab.com) paired up with an entirely new name, Albishorn (albishorn-watches.com), for its debut design the Maxigraph, a yachting chronograph inspired by 1930s tool watches. This was followed in October by the Type 10, a hypothetical precursor to the well-known Type 20 pilot’s watches of the mid20th century. Chronographs and tool watches were also at the heart of Favre-Leuba’s (favreleuba.com) latest rebirth; with industry veteran Patrick Hoffman at the helm, the company that originally began in 1737 is back for another spin at the table, after a rebirth in 2011 eventually ran out of steam in 2020. It launched at Geneva Watch Days with a dive watch, the Deep Blue, a chronograph called the Sea Sky and an all-purpose tool watch family, the Chief. Hoffman said it would aim to sell 4,000 watches in its first year, with ambitions of hitting figures of 80,000-100,000 watches a year within a decade.
A CUT ABOVE
At first sight, the direction of travel among fine watchmakers in 2024 could best be described as “everything, everywhere, all at once”, with new releases running the gamut from modest, heritage-inspired 38mm automatics at Alpina (alpinawatches.com) to the ornate artistry of Corum’s (corum-watches.com) Golden Bridge, complete with handpainted 18-carat gold sculpture of a python in jungle foliage.
With the exception of the stellar watches mentioned above, the overwhelming majority of watches making their debut at Geneva Watch Days and subsequent events around the world were mechanically identical to existing models, and most were simple time-and-date affairs. At the most broadbrush level, aesthetic considerations are driving the watch market: technical innovation does still matter, but it takes a lot longer to bring out and will usually be presented at Geneva’s Watches and Wonders (watchesandwonders.com) in April, thereby increasing the perception that the autumn’s new releases were mostly concerned with matters of style.
One look above all others is enjoying a moment, at brands as disparate as Hublot (hublot.com) and Timex (timex.com), as well as the finest independent artisans: stone dials. The catch-all term refers to watches with semi-precious gemstones such as onyx, malachite, jade, lapis lazuli and others used in their dials. Prone to breakages during production due to their brittle fragility, these have nevertheless flooded onto the market of late. Frederique Constant (frederiqueconstant.com) drew high praise for incorporating them into its Classic Manufacture range, spearheaded by the aventurine-dialled 39mm Classic Tourbillon Manufacture. Parisian microbrand Baltic (baltic-watches.com) released a trio of stone-dialled limitededition watches in September, with dials in green jade for New York, red agate for London and lapis lazuli for Paris. And the current darling of the independent collector scene, Berneron (berneron.ch), followed up its runaway debut hit, the asymmetric Mirage, with a smaller 34mm version that introduced tiger’s eye and lapis lazuli dials and removed all numerals and hour markers, giving the stones’ natural qualities space to shine.
ROCK AROUND THE CLOCK
Love London? Paris? New York? Wear your heart on your sleeve with Baltic’s new city-inspired trio of stone dials
CURVE BALL
Catch Berneron’s Mirage while you can – the quirky new 34mm version features tiger’s eye and lapis lazuli
Welcoming the newest resort to the Ultratravel Collection
OUTRIGGER Reef Waikiki Beach Resort’s Diamond Head Tower
A beachfront retreat rooted in Hawaiian music & culture featuring:
Monkeypod Kitchen by Merriman
Waikīkī ‘s hottest new oceanfront restaurant
Voyager 47
The best views of any club lounge on the island
Coral Reef Penthouse Suite
The new standard of barefoot luxury
RAILWAY REVERIES
From the Canadian Rockies and Arabian deserts to the luminous landscapes of Vietnam, there are ever-more opulent ways to explore the world by rail. Nigel Tisdall shortlists eight of the best for 2025
EXPLORE NORTHERN SPAIN
Travelling almost 1,000km on narrow-gauge tracks between San Sebastián and Santiago de Compostela, Tren Transcantábrico (eltrentranscantabrico.com) offers seven-night trips from March to October, with guests sleeping in restored 1920s-built carriages. There are just 14 wood-panelled suites, creating an air of exclusivity, plus four saloon cars for wining and dining and entertainment. Time on board is paired with daily coach excursions to regional attractions such as Bilbao’s Guggenheim Museum, the prehistoric cave paintings at Altamira and the mountainous, wildlife-rich Picos de Europa National Park.
HAVE AN AFRICAN ADVENTURE
Now in its 36th year, Pretoria-based Rovos Rail (rovos.com) offers thrilling train rides in southern Africa in Edwardianstyle carriages, with safari experiences included. For a brief taste, book a three-night jaunt trundling north to Victoria Falls. Love golf? Try a nine-night tour visiting courses in South Africa and Swaziland. You’ll need to book early for the trip-of-a-lifetime journeys that roll into Tanzania, Namibia, Angola and the Democratic Republic of Congo. For total indulgence, book one of the Royal Suites, which fill half a carriage and boast a full-size roll-top bath.
EAT YOUR WAY AROUND NEW ZEALAND
Gourmet treats, fine wines and scenic highs are guaranteed on the new 17-night “Flavour of Aotearoa” signature rail tour from Auckland to Queenstown currently on offer by Great Journeys New Zealand (greatjourneysnz.com). Tying together three regional train journeys and the ferry linking North and South Islands, it includes visits to the volcanic
“Watch the deserts and mountains roll by while enjoying a bottle of Dom Pérignon”
LAVA AT FIRST SIGHT
It’s “goodbye, daily commute”, “hello, spectacular volcanic scenery” on a thrilling Great Journeys New Zealand escape
WILD AT HEART
Right: South African Rovos Rail offers journeys that combine sumptuous luxury with unforgettable safari experiences
SPREAD YOUR WINGS
The luxurious Golden Eagle traverses the Asian “stans”
Tongariro National Park, the vineyards of Marlborough and the Haast river. Seating is in Scenic Plus carriages, with panoramic windows, “paddock-to-plate” menus and overnights in four- and five-star hotels en route.
DISCOVER THE SILK ROAD
A go-slow journey between Almaty and Tashkent, the Golden Eagle (goldeneagleluxurytrains.com) offers a 13-night odyssey exploring the rich cultures of five central Asian “stans”. Departures are in April and September, and include stops at the World Heritage-listed cities of Bukhara, Khiva and Samarkand. For the ultimate experience, book one of five Imperial Suites, each of which features a king-size bed and two picture windows ideal for watching the deserts and mountains roll by, perhaps while enjoying a complimentary bottle of Dom Pérignon.
ENJOY AN ARABIAN ADVENTURE
Slated to launch in late 2025, the Italian-built Dream of the Desert (arsenalegroup.com) luxury train will travel through Saudi Arabia, following a 1,200km route from Riyadh to Al Qurayyat, close to the country’s northern border with Jordan. Up to 80 passengers will enjoy one- or two-night itineraries, dining in the train’s top-class restaurant and visiting wonders of the world such as the 10,000 yearold rock art near Hail and the ancient city of Al Qassim, renowned for its sweet, succulent dates.
GO-SLOW SPAIN
Above: explore the very best of northern Spain’s undulating terrain with Tren Transcantábrico
GOLDEN HOUR
Above: discover Rajasthan while enjoying five-star luxury aboard the Maharajas’ Express
Right: watch the diverse landscapes of Vietnam roll by on an SJourney adventure
RIDE THE ROCKY MOUNTAINS
A trip on a Rocky Mountaineer (rockymountaineer.com) train involves winding through the majestic scenery of the Rocky Mountains in a glass-domed GoldLeaf-class carriage, enjoying a sumptuous lunch while your host points out the passing sights and wildlife. Departures are from April to October, with a choice of three Canadian routes that start in Vancouver and then climb inland to Jasper and Banff, plus another in the American Southwest that journeys between Moab and Denver. All travel is by day so you don’t miss a thing, with accommodation in premium hotels.
TOUR RAJASTHAN BY RAIL
With an unashamedly nostalgic desire to “recreate the journeys undertaken by Indian royalty and British aristocracy in their luxury saloons”, the Maharajas’ Express (the-maharajas.com) comes with glossy crimson and gold carriages emblazoned with crowns and tigers, while the abundant staff sport an elegant uniform of buff tunic, black jodhpurs and a flamboyant long-tailed turban. Four itineraries of between three and six nights are available from October to April, travelling to or from Delhi and taking in renowned cities such as Agra, Jaipur and Varanasi, with immersive excursions included.
GO OFF-GRID IN VIETNAM
Making its first departure on 18 December 2024, the Vietnamese-owned SJourney (vietnamluxuryexpress. com) is a high-class, all-inclusive luxury train ride that will operate year-round, offering seven-night tours between Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi. The 10 elegant sleeping cars are inspired by the 1930s, with en-suite rooms in which you’ll wake up to a new destination each morning. Offtrain experiences and activities include a cycle ride in the countryside, a boat trip in the Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park and a spin around Hue on a vintage Vespa.
The green movement is pushing ahead in the snow-white resorts of the Alps and Rockies.
Bigger lifts carry more people, more efficiently, and at higher speeds, with many fulfilling their resort’s commitment to renewable energy. Efforts to boost sustainability include solar-powered lifts and floodlit crosscountry skiing tracks. Remember, the higher you go, the better, because of snow scarcity from climate change.
A lot is happening this season in the steep and deep resort of Jackson Hole (jacksonhole.com), Wyoming. A faster and more powerful Sublette lift cuts riding time in half for skiers and snowboarders exploring the south side of Rendezvous mountain and the intermediate and expert terrain below the Rendezvous bowl. And a 100% green power programme has run all the lifts since 2019.
Bringing complementary resorts closer together, Jackson Hole has teamed up with Big Sky (bigskyresort.com) in Montana to offer shuttles between the two, now included on the Ikon lift pass (a whole-season pass covers 59 resorts). Both have fabulous skiing, but these atmospheric old towns are also on the doorstep of the Yellowstone and Grand Teton national parks – so you could always add in a nature safari, snowmobiling through the wilderness or a visit to Old Faithful geyser – all minus the summer crowds.
Over the next two winters, Deer Valley (deervalley.com) in Utah will more than double its terrain to become the
country’s fourth-largest ski resort (it’s currently number 15). The project starts with three new lifts and 19 new trails over 300 acres. This includes the resort’s first six-passenger heated bubble lift and a new base area. In the first season, Deer Valley will jump past rivals like Beaver Creek, Alta and Sun Valley in size. Next winter, the resort plans to open six more lifts, including a 10-passenger gondola, 2,600 more acres of skiing and 100 new trails.
Last winter, the equally smart, bigger resort of Aspen (aspen.com) in Colorado, opened its first new terrain since 1985, increasing the skiing capacity by 20%. The new area, Hero’s, is on Aspen Mountain, adding 150 acres of slopes and a high-speed quad chairlift.
Some of the most gorgeous glacial scenery of the Rockies awaits in Banff-Lake Louise (banfflakelouise.com), Canada, which has three separate ski areas to explore. Two of them see new lifts opening this winter – the Super Angel six-person heated bubble on Sunshine mountain, and the Upper Juniper Express at Lake Louise.
In France, the (pretty much) year-round winter sports resort of Les Deux Alpes (les2alpes.com) has replaced the old Jandri Express, in a project costing some €135 million. The journey time to the snow-sure glacier at 3,200m has been reduced to 15 minutes.
Another sky-high resort is La Plagne (la-plagne.com), where an exhilarating new experience brings skiers to new
TEAM TIGNES
Iconic Savoie slopes have had an eco-friendly upgrade
RAREFIED SCHUSSING
With new initiatives in some of the world’s most renowned ski resorts that include energy-efficient lifts and solar-powered floodlights, winter sports fans have much to look forward to this season, says Felice Hardy
heights. Aérolive takes you 3,080m above sea level in the two open-air cabins added to the Glaciers gondola, whisking passengers to the resort’s highest point. The cabins’ minimalist design – with its slatted floors and no glass barriers – allows for unobstructed 360-degree views.
In Plagne 1800, you can now pilot a two-person bobsleigh. The activity starts with a track walk to study the best line down, followed by two descents – one as passenger; the other as a pilot. But don’t worry – daredevils will be supervised by a professional pilot and French Bobsleigh Federation-certified instructors. The instruction is in French, except on 17 January 2025 (eight people maximum, minimum age 16), when it’s in English. The cost is £505pp, which includes helmet, insurance and crampons.
The other big-hitter in the Paradiski area is Les Arcs (lesarcs.com), and the Transarc lift now links Arc 1800 with the mountaintops. With a lower electricity consumption than previously, the transformation includes 10-seater cabins across the 3.4km lift line. Beginners will love the resort’s new Spark snowpark and Minis ski run, where they’ll ski through a giant magnifying glass and enter a world of tiny creatures, spotting different insects and giant ants on the route down.
“In Les Arcs, beginners will love the new Minis run, where they’ll ski through a giant magnifying glass and enter a world of tiny creatures”
MORE IS MORE Aspen has increased its ski area by 20%
GO WILD
Above: Wyoming’s Jackson Hole offers the chance of great wildlife sightings
Right: a bird’s-eye view of Jackson Hole’s dramatic terrain and resort town
PIT-STOP PERFECTION
On returning to the medieval town of Megève, skiers can look forward to superlative wining and dining
In Val d’Isère (valdisere.com), the new Vallon gondola from above Le Fornet whizzes you up to 2,790m, cutting the journey time by half and increasing uphill capacity by 85%, encouraging more people to ski on the Pisaillas glacier. Les Fils à Maman, a family-friendly restaurant inside a renovated chalet, also opens in December. Its menu features classic mountain dishes and a good-value children’s menu.
In neighbouring Tignes (tignes.net), the new six-seater chairlift, Le Marais, offers a quieter, faster and more energyefficient way of getting up the mountain than before. It transports skiers to the summit of Aiguille Percée.
This winter, a new €16 million gondola will replace Les 2 Lacs chairlift in Val Thorens (valthorens.com) This features 10-seater cabins and carries 3,500 skiers per hour. There’s also ski-in, ski-out access to Grand Fond between the Bee zip-line and the Moutière chairlift. Relax in the brand new €14 million Caron 3200 complex at the top of Cime de Caron, with its restaurant and wine bar.
Less snow-sure is Megève (megeve-tourisme.fr), so you’ll need to choose your ski dates wisely here. It is a gorgeous town at any time of year, with plenty of non-ski activities.
Thomas Bencze, an award-winning mixologist, is opening a coffee shop and concept store in Studio Givré to share his passion for the art of the cocktail. In his mixology workshops, you can learn to make the classics or create a unique cocktail. “Mocktail” workshops are provided for children. A one-hour adult cocktail workshop costs from £57pp and kids’ class from £29 for 45 minutes. Alternatively (or in addition), settle into an “apér-igloo” to feast on local produce such as sausage, Val d’Arly cheese and mountain bread – all served with
mulled wine under the stars. A three-hour session includes a snowshoe excursion to reach the igloo and an apéritif.
Avoriaz (avoriaz.com), in the giant Portes du Soleil ski area, is the first resort to conduct a comprehensive global carbon footprint assessment through its partnership with TakeAir. The project evaluates the carbon emissions of all shops, services, and accommodation at the resort, its aim being to reduce environmental impact and promote a more sustainable future for tourism.
Montagne Verte Association has introduced the Alpine Express pass, which aims to reduce the carbon footprint of holidaymakers in Morzine-Avoriaz (morzine-avoriaz.com) and encourage visitors to travel by train, putting less strain on the planet (and spectacular views along the way).
With a few notable exceptions, Austria doesn’t offer the large linked ski areas of France, but it constantly revamps its lifts, and one lift pass often covers several resorts. Being further east than France, it has a different snow pattern, with snow falling at lower altitudes.
A new 10-person gondola will open in Gerlos in the Zillertal Arena (zillertal.at) this winter, and the new Teufeltal eight-person chairlift will connect Zell am Ziller to Gerlos, with cosy heated seats and pull-down bubbles to keep passengers warm and dry. Meanwhile, the six-person DuxerX-Press replaces the old four-person Duxeralmbahn.
There are further 10-person gondolas opening in Serfaus-Fiss-Ladis (serfaus-fiss-ladis.at) and Schlick 2000 (stubai.at) in the Stubai (stubai.at) region. Also in the Stubai, Panorama Restaurant Kreuzjoch, next to the top of the Kreuzjochbahn at Schlick 2000, will seat up to 200 people. The restaurant now features self-service and table service, with a stylish panorama bar and large terrace. The style is modern-traditional, and the food is typically Tirolean.
Kitzbühel (kitzbuehel.com) has two new six-seater chairs in its Jochberg area, while chefs Stefan Monitzer and Ralf Berner take over the Auwirt in Aurach.
AMERICAN ICON
Aspen Mountain’s challenging new Hero’s ski area awaits exploration
“PillerseeTal opens the region’s first solar-powered, floodlit crosscountry skiing trail, which is illuminated for up to four hours after sunset”
Along the valley, Scheffau (skiwelt.at) launches the 8-CLD/B Eibergbahn cable car, which reduces upload time. Solar power provides 50% of its electricity.
Hochfilzen in the PillerseeTal (kitzbueheler-alpen.com) opens the region’s first solar-powered, floodlit cross-country skiing trail this winter. Fifty solar panels and battery storage run it, and the floodlights will illuminate the trail for up to four hours after sunset. In the same area, the Triassic Park opens the new Triassic Funline, with up-and-down rollers, banked corners, a massive snow snail tunnel and a children’s slalom course. On-site childcare is available for parents who want to go off and have a ski.
The Skiwelt in Austria’s Tirol has long had some of the best on-mountain facilities for families in summer, with wooden playgrounds that melt into the landscape, shallow streams to pan for “gold”, and themed forest walks. Now, the winter facilities are catching up with the opening of a magical new, witch-themed winter wonderland in Hochsöll (skiwelt.at). It’s at the mid-station of the Hexenwasser cable car and includes an ice rink, winter playground, magic carpet, relaxation space with recliners and an area where children can make their first turns. There are toboggans to borrow from the heated “Gingerbread House”. This is also the starting point for a new adventure trail leading up to the Stöcklalm hut.
Also in the Skiwelt area, Söll (wilderkaiser.info) is opening a small-scale hydroelectric plant, generating 25% of the energy needed to run its lifts.
THE VIEW FROM THE TOP
A new energy-efficient chairlift will whisk adventurers to the summit of Aiguille Percée in Tignes
WIND IN YOUR HAIR
Above: two new open-air cabins in La Plagne will delight thrill-seekers
In the Alpbach valley (alpbachtal.at), the lift company is investing €1.5 million, most of it for 50 tower snow guns. These will increase snowmaking efficiency by 20%, with the new devices consuming less energy than previous models. The future-facing lift company has installed 25 snow guns for this season, and the rest will be added next year. In Alpbach itself, the KidsCross Alpbachtal on the Wiedersbergerhorn is a new child-friendly ski course with tricky turns, bumps, and a tunnel to ski through. Kids can check their race times at the bottom.
The Skicircus Saalbach-Hinterglemm-Leogang Fieberbrunn (saalbach.com) is the second-biggest ski area in Austria and will host the 2025 Skiing World Championships. With this in mind, improvements to the ski area include a faster lift in Fieberbrunn to connect the base to the summit of Lärchfilzkogel – making for a smoother, quicker ascent. Meanwhile, the new 10-person cable car will make navigating the ski area even easier.
Saas-Fee (saas-fee.ch) in Switzerland has its famous Metro Alpin, which is the highest underground funicular in the world and leads to the highest mountain restaurant. This season, it’s been modernised extensively, offering a faster, 4.5-minute journey from the Felskinn to Mittelallalin stations, and new carriages to accommodate 95 people.
Nendaz (nendaz.ch), meanwhile, Verbier’s unsung neighbour in the 4 Valleys, has a new Telemixt from Prarion to Tracouet. The lift combines six-seater chairs with 10-person cabins, making it accessible for beginners and non-skiers and offering a choice of covered or uncovered uphill transport.
This winter, the first section of the new cable car opens between Stechelberg and Mürren (jungfrau.ch). Reaching an incline of 160 degrees, the cable is considered the steepest in the world. The cabins transport 800 passengers hourly from the valley to the resort.
Andermatt (andermatt-sedrun-disentis.ch) will unveil a new main street, the Furkagasse, in the modern sector of Andermatt, this December. It’s planned to be a vibrant and contemporary village square, blending international style with alpine charm. There will be exclusive boutiques, cosy cafés and first-class restaurants, including IGNIV by threeMichelin-starred chef Andreas Caminada.
Cortina d’Ampezzo (dolomitisuperski.com), Bormio (bormio.eu) and Livigno (livigno.eu) are among the swish venues selected for the Milano-Cortina 2026 Winter Olympics (milanocortinaish 2026.olympics.com). Cortina and Bormio will hold the Alpine skiing events, while Bormio will host the first-ever ski mountaineering competition in the Olympics. Catch it if you can.
“In Andermatt, a new main street will be home to exclusive boutiques, cosy cafés and first-class restaurants”
NATURAL HIGHS
Above: new facilities in Austria’s Tirol transform the destination into a next-level winter playground
e best way to connect is simply to disconnect.
FOREVER YOURS
Cenizaro Hotels & Resorts
Bintan | Maldives | Marrakech | Mauritius | Tunis | Zanzibar
DESERT DRIVE
The ancient sands of Saudi Arabia are now being discovered and crisscrossed not just by intrepid travellers, but by an all-women rally that is a celebration of empowerment. By Fee Drummond
SANDS OF TIME
Left: the inaugural Richard Mille Rally A’shira saw participants power across challenging desert terrain
The kingdom’s desert: a place of heritage, intrigue, survival and heat; a mythical place written about in legend and lore. And a place that an all-female team would explore on a ground-breaking threeday rally involving a 40-strong competitor line-up, covering more than 800km across the Saudi Arabian sands in a convoy of no fewer than 20 4x4 Jeeps.
Behold, the inaugural Richard Mille Rally A’shira – the first all-female rally in the MENA region, uniting the hautehorlogerie watchmaker with Saudi Motorsport and Beyond Jet over an ancient route from Medina to The Red Sea.
Having arrived in the sun-baked city of Jeddah, we travel on to Medina, “the Luminous City”, by train, affording us an opportunity to explore one of the oldest and most important places in Islamic history, the cradle of culture and civilisation.
A fleet of Jeeps await, and we set off from Medina to Allula, crawling through city roads packed with traffic, before finally getting the chance to put our foot down as we reach those storied desert highways. Dusty tracks, goat herders, donkeys and the occasional small village break up journey.
We navigate through the vast and changing sandy palette with only a road book, a mileage tracker, and the A’Shira star – a powerful, centuries-old symbol of discovery and empowerment. No digital navigation tools whatsoever. And a notebook of rally directions to guide us between marshall points. We’re not even afforded a paper map. Simple, this is not. Making tracks into the dark night, we stream playlists and stop to eat at a pop-up Airstream tethered between camels, leaning on the warm Jeep bonnet under starry skies and the brilliant moon. Eventually, we reach AlUla, a city of profound cultural significance dating back approximately seven centuries.
AlUla’s rich history is only just beginning to be discovered by visitors from the west, its archaeological sites, notably Hegra (also known as Mada’in Saleh) being Saudi Arabia’s first Unesco World Heritage site. Awestruck by the enormity and closeness of the looming mountains, their earthen silhouettes stark against the inky-blue night sky, we pause a moment longer to appreciate the clean air gently scented by camp-fire smoke. And then we jump back into our vehicles and motor to the next stage of our Arabian odyssey: a Bedouin-inspired tented reception. Our tired caravan is warmly welcomed: an on-site astrologer is on hand, along with a lunar telescope for stargazing in each tented room. The natural beauty of this place is simply majestic.
MAKING GOOD TIME
Above top: camels are a common sight across the kingdom; above middle: the Richard Mille RM 07-04 Automatic Sport, the brand’s first female-focused sports watch, was the official timepiece of the rally; above bottom: Jeep was a race partner, supplying a fleet of off-road vehicles
At dawn, we make our pilgrimage to Hegra in a line-up of immaculately restored open-top Landrovers. Comprising more than 100 well-preserved tombs with elaborate facades carved into sandstone outcrops by the Nabataean civilization – the same people who built Petra in Jordan – these unique geological formations are now being heralded as one of the world’s most important ancient remains.
We tour swathes of dusty desert landscape dotted with the impressive monumental tombs, their ornate facades dating from the first century BC through to the 1st century AD. Some 50 inscriptions of the pre-Nabataean period, plus cave drawings, decorate the walls. Someone sings a line of a song into a hole in the wall, the entrancing echo ringing as clear as a bell through the cavernous pass.
But off-roading is, of course, the job in hand, and it is always a pleasure to get back behind the wheel and on the “road” again. We get lost, dig ourselves out of dunes, and get rescued by a desert truck complete with a driver in keffiyeh head-dress and his three excited children.
Driving this challenging terrain is hungry work, and we pause once more to refuel under ebony skies on a whole lamb slow-cooked for hours deep under the desert sand, followed by platters of dates, mezze and Arabian sweets in a camp lit entirely by torch flames.
A heroes’ welcome awaits us at the Red Sea, where we’re serenaded by a Saudi band in national dress – accessorised by swords and sunglasses. Kicking off our heavy desert boots, we walk to the water’s edge and revel in how far we’ve come in a journey that embodies the spirit of exploration.
But it’s not over yet. A never-to-be-forgotten boat trip is next on the agenda, and, after being whisked to the spectacular island of Shebara, we recoup, recount stories of our Arabian days and nights and celebrate our communal team effort in the competition. Snorkelling the reef just off the front of our luxurious, sci-fi-esque overwater pods, we spot turtles, stingrays and parrot fish close enough to touch.
We’re invited to e-foil, kayak or scuba our way around Red Sea Global’s extraordinary island resort, delighted to be the very first to visit.
“It’s about authenticity, and being real,” says Amanda Mille, Richard Mille’s Global Brand & Partnership Director.
“Within the world of luxury, we value the human part of it. We never follow what the others are doing. Richard Mille is a family, a brand growing up and growing on – and creating a clan strength via this experience. We are making watches for women, hard-wearing, durable and imbued with the spirit of sport and fun, empowering women to prove new things to themselves every day. We want to be super-strong and truly accountable to that.”
Our team of drivers could not agree more with the philosophy, which has engendered an extraordinary and unforgettable experience, through an equally extraordinary country whose future chapters are being written, in diversity and dynamism, before our very eyes.
PEDDLE TO THE METAL
Left: onwards!
Opp page: some of the incredible landscapes the rally’s route took in
TOWERING
ACHIEVEMENTS
From London to Los Angeles, an array of notable architectural projects that have been on ice are now coming to fruition, as Jonathan Bell explains
ACHIEVEMENTS
Architecture is a long game. Even so, we’re now entering a phase of postpandemic grand designs that were either planned or underway before a near-global halt was called on construction, with many major plans delayed, modified or curtailed altogether. One high-profile example is the Frank Gehry-designed Guggenheim Abu Dhabi. By the time it opens its doors, it will be nearly two decades since the project was conceived. Gehry will be 96.
The lifecycle of such a project was already substantial, but the good news for developers, cultural institutions and governments is that appetite for these, along with new public spaces and better cultural provision, remains universal, ensuring that these long-gestating proposals will find a ready audience once they finally get to open their doors. These are the ones to have on your radar.
Fondation Cartier, Paris – Ateliers Jean Nouvel
It’s been three decades since France’s Jean Nouvel completed a glass-and-steel pavilion for the Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art, the philanthropic arts wing of the international jewellers. Back then, the foundation was a decade old, and the beautifully finished building on Boulevard Raspail in Paris’ 14th arrondissement played host to legendary exhibitions by Matthew Barney, Takashi Murakami and Marc Newson, among others. Now Nouvel is shaping the organisation a new home in the Palais-Royal, converting an existing 19th-century building into galleries, an events space, bookshop and restaurant, forging new connections within the neighbourhood (fondationcartier.com; jeannouvel.com)
“These long-gestating proposals will find a ready audience once they finally open their doors”
IS WHERE THE ART IS How Bilbao’s Fine Art Museum will look when Foster + Partners is finished with it
EAST IS EAST London’s new V&A East, by O’Donnell + Tuomey
V&A East, London – O’Donnell + Tuomey London’s Victoria & Albert Museum continues its march into new territory with an outpost in east London. Following on from 2018’s V&A Dundee, designed by Kengo Kuma, V&A East occupies a prominent site on Stratford Waterfront, a slice of real estate adjacent to the stadium and swimming pool that were built for the London 2012 Olympics. V&A East sits alongside the London College of Fashion, new music studios for the BBC and Sadler’s Wells East – a ready-made cultural quarter. Of the four structures, O’Donnell + Tuomey’s V&A East makes the biggest impact, with a “drape”’ facade inspired by the fashion of Cristóbal Balenciaga housing galleries, exhibition spaces and a dramatic rooftop terrace (vam.ac.uk; odonnell-tuomey.ie)
Lucas Museum of Narrative Art, Los Angeles – MAD Architects
The tent-like roofs of the incredible new Lucas Museum of Narrative Art are rising up above Los Angeles’ Exposition Park, a cluster of cultural structures with the LA Memorial Coliseum at its heart, as well as being home to LA’s Natural History Museum. Designed by Chinese studio MAD Architects, the facility will eventually cover an 11-acre campus, with substantial amounts of the building buried beneath a new contoured landscape conceived by Studio-MLA. The entire project has a budget of around £770 million – which is unsurprising, when you realise that the “Lucas” involved is George “Star Wars” Lucas, who, together with his wife and co-founder Mellody Hobson, wants to create an homage to visual storytelling in all its many forms in the iconic home of the world’s film industry (lucasmuseum.org; i-mad.com)
CULTURAL CLOUT
Opp page top; Fondation Cartier, Paris, by Ateliers Jean Nouvel
This page top right: Guggenheim Abu Dhabi, UAE, by Gehry Partners
This page bottom right: La Source Vive, Evianles-Bains, France, by Patrick Bouchain and Philippe Chiambaretta
Guggenheim Abu Dhabi – Gehry Partners
The transformation of the Guggenheim into a global powerhouse continues with the long-awaited opening of Frank Gehry’s Guggenheim Abu Dhabi. This vast temple of art was always intended as one of the centrepieces of the Saadiyat Island cultural district, but construction delays pushed this 30,000m² structure, the largest of all the Guggenheim’s facilities, back to 2025. Sited close to Jean Nouvel’s Louvre Abu Dhabi, the building is laid out in its architect’s signature curved and crumpled style, a cascading accretion of towers, roofs and terraces that was in part inspired by traditional Middle Eastern architecture (guggenheim.org; foga.com)
La Source Vive, Evian-les-Bains – Patrick Bouchain and Philippe Chiambaretta
On a much more modest scale, La Source Vive is a new chamber music hall set within woodland near the eastern French town of Évian-les-Bains. Designed by the architects Patrick Bouchain and Philippe Chiambaretta, the main performance hall is a conch-shaped structure with an exterior clad in weathered copper, and an interior designed around the most efficient acoustic form. Set on a site in Mélèzes, the new hall is close to La Grange au Lac, a 1993-opened venue designed by Patrick Bouchain (lasourcevive-evian.com; pca-stream.com)
Bilbao Fine Arts Museum Extension – Foster + Partners
Foster + Partners is transforming Bilbao’s Fine Arts Museum, expanding and remodelling the entire building to consolidate a number of extensions and additions with the construction of a new “floating” pavilion structure that will sit atop the original neoclassical 1945 building. The architects’ plans include the creation of new high-level galleries, a large public atrium and a pedestrian path that runs through the site, connecting the various elements together. The new addition is finished in sleek curved glass, sailing over the original brick like a superyacht (bilbaomuseoa.eus; fosterandpartners.com)
“Shanghai Grand Opera House’s ‘fan’ concept is echoed throughout the building and shapes the form of its lobby”
SETTING THE STAGE
Shanghai’s enormous Grand Opera House, by Norway’s Snøhetta
FUTURESCAPE
Shanghai Grand Opera House, China – Snøhetta Norwegian architectural firm Snøhetta won the competition to design Shanghai’s new Grand Opera House in 2017. The monumental structure builds on the country’s love of the art form and will accommodate classical music concerts as well as both Chinese and traditional opera performances, as well as more avantgarde works. Under construction in the city’s Expo Houtan neighbourhood, the 146,786m² edifice is embedded within a vast spiral landscaping programme, with staircase and public plaza space that winds its way up to the roof. The “fan” concept is echoed through the building and shapes the form of its towering internal lobby and three performance halls (snohetta.com)
Paddington Square, London, UK – Renzo Piano Building Workshop
Atop the new Paddington Square project by Renzo Piano Building Workshop will be west London’s highest rooftop bar and restaurant. The architects and engineers have been delayed by the need to thread the new structure into a poorly mapped, highly dense area – home to underground structures that weren’t on any map. The 17-storey construction will be finished with characteristic hightech precision, with the venues on the top floor terrace providing some of the best views across London when it opens next year (paddingtonsquare.co.uk; rpbw.com )
Powerhouse Parramatta, Sydney, Australia – Moreau Kusunoki and Genton
Described as Australia’s most substantial cultural development since the Sydney Opera House opened in 1973, Powerhouse Parramatta is a mixed-use complex in western Sydney’s Parramatta district. Designed by Moreau Kusunoki together with Genton, the building accommodates seven different exhibition spaces, a theatre, educational facilities and studios, along with a roof garden and new restaurants and cafés. Part of the brief was to integrate creative life into the area, so 30 residential studios are also included, along with student accommodation (powerhouse.com.au; moreaukusunoki.com )
Antara Expansion, Mexico City, Mexico – Sordo Madaleno
Sordo Madaleno is undertaking this expansion of one of Mexico City’s most desirable shopping destinations. The architects designed the original centre back in 2006, and are now adding new cultural spaces, outdoor areas and public plazas to better integrate the complex into the surrounding Polanco neighbourhood. Above this is rising a new 42-storey tower with curved facades and a hotel and offices within (sordomadaleno.com)
BREAKING NEW GROUND Powerhouse Parramatta, Sydney, by Moreau Kusunoki and Genton
Left inset: Paddington Square, London, by Renzo Piano Building Workshop
ON TOP OF THE WORLD
London’s Paddington Square will be home to the capital’s highest rooftop bar
THE HEAT IS ON Antara Expansion, Mexico City, by Sordo Madalenoeca
POWER PLAYER
A monstrously outlandish Merc you can drive without feeling like a social pariah? Meet the new G580. Adam HayNicholls reports
In electrifying the G-Class, a butch 4x4 one associates with gas-guzzling oligarchs and petrol-shilling sheiks, a ridiculous yet desirable car, Mercedes has embraced the future with surprising grace. And just wait till you see its party piece.
There are few hints that this is an EV at standstill. Gone are the four aggressive side-exiting exhausts; new are the LED rings around the circular headlamps and an illuminated black eye mask without a radiator behind it. However, the brutalist silhouette remains the same as that of its combustion siblings, as if it were sketched by a child with an aversion to curved lines. It’s officially known as the G-Class these days, but it’ll always be referred to in the field as the “G-Wagen”. Short for Geländewagen – or Cross-Country Vehicle – it was originally manufactured for the Iranian army, and for 45 years has maintained its unique “toy soldier” flavour.
The V8-powered G63 AMG, a four-wheeled WWE wrestler with 585bhp, is still on sale but you need to be pretty thick-skinned and fat-headed to own one. The gravelly soundtrack is both joyous and embarrassing, depending who is in earshot, and no one’s going to mistake you for a progressive. A scourge of London’s most moneyed neighbourhoods, a G63 – regardless of whether or not you pimp it out like Muammar Gaddafi’s jet – will ensure that you are loathed by both the middle classes and the liberal proletariat.
The 580bhp electric G, however, offers all of the benefits of the petrol pariah with none of the shame. Identified as the EQG when the concept was unveiled, the car has officially been (cumbersomely) christened the “G580 with EQ Technology”, perhaps to further disguise its woke powertrain. No need. As I learned on a recent trip to the south of France to test it, its four individually
“Across the rugged badlands of Château de Lastours, it flies along with reassurance”
MAKING A SPLASH
The G580 cruises through water of depths up to 85cm without complaint, and its extra torque means steep climbs are a breeze
controlled electric motors (and four gearboxes!) allow it to do things the combustion car never could.
The central locking makes such a violent noise that it will make you jump, in the fear that someone has fired a crossbow from the backseat. Mercedes could have made its EQS quiet, but that would be out of keeping with its militia personality. Likewise, you’ll want to shut the boot with the same force Vinnie Jones might use to slam a geezer’s head in it. It’s the character of the thing. Yet on the motorway, it is as smooth as its limousine cousin, and on A-roads it corners as flat as Torvill and Dean. You do feel its 3.1 tonnes on the twisties: it doesn’t have the bite of the 332kg-lighter G63 AMG when turning into corners, but the performance isn’t far off. Zero to 62mph takes 4.7 secs (0.3s slower than the AMG).
Where it really excels, though, is off-road, with the extra torque making uphill progress effortless, and the lack of pipes meaning you can wade water to a depth of 85cm. Across the rugged badlands of Languedoc’s Château de Lastours, where Dakar and World Rally Championship teams hone their machinery, the leccy-G flies along with complete reassurance. It’s easier to drive than the ICE Gs because you don’t have to engage special differentials – just press a button to select your terrain and go.
Top feature? The G-Turn. Press the marked button, hold onto the steering wheel and nail the power. Like a tank, it’ll turn on the spot: 180 degrees… 360 degrees… round and round you go. Useful for getting out of Austin Powersstyle corridors, I wager it’ll create mayhem in Mayfair. The £180,860 electric G is hilarious – an armoured vehicle crossed with a nightclub. But now that it’s silent, it’s almost socially acceptable (mercedes-benz.com)
