TRAVEL
I
love a good island, so was intrigued at the idea of Menorca, the quieter relation of Balearic neighbours Majorca and Ibiza. But, do not be fooled, Menorca punches way above its weight for a great holiday. The hurly-burly of the resort, lounger wars by the pool and umbrella feuds on the beach are not for me. From the windier moonscape of the north coast to the turquoise sea beauties of the south, Menorca has plenty of stunning beaches with every kind of water activity available, but it would be a shame to miss out on the wealth of diverse natural and cultural adventures to be found throughout the island by ‘doing’ beach only. Situated in the desirable and strategic heart of the western Mediterranean, evidence of invasions by Greeks, Romans, Moors, Americans and the British abound in the architecture, defence towers, lighthouses and fortifications throughout the island, making it history heaven. With a gentler pace of life, car hire and driving is not the usual hair-raising affair of other islands, and, indeed, the Spanish mainland. The island measures just 48km at its widest from east to west, so from the airport in the south east we were soon on the west coast, in the original capital Ciutadella. What’s not to like about a town that has banned plastic street furniture? Locals and tourists alike sit on canvas director-style chairs, watching the world go by in various tree-lined squares. Everybody was busy preparing for the celebration of the Feast of St John, the town’s patron saint, with its unique festival of dancing horses.
Diving into what Menorca has to offer large, deep labyrinths, the results of limestone quarrying for the building trade over centuries.
Ciutadella’s compact historic centre is easy to explore. A successful spot of shoe-shopping for traditional leather sandals, avarcas, was swiftly followed by a visit to a gourmet delicatessen showcasing some of the wonderful artisan food of Menorca. Next door, the 19th century Oliver Palace has centuries old furnishings, drawings, paintings, prints and maps throughout the original grand salons, with magnificent animal and bird friezes decorating the ceilings.
The quarries had been used as vegetable and fruit gardens by farmers, but have gradually been taken over by the natural flora and fauna. More recently, the area has been turned into a diverse botanical circuit, where you can stroll out of the heat of the sun, through medicinal and aromatic herbs and plants accompanied by the sound of water from a rose canopied fountain.
Driving out of the city, and intrigued by a signpost for the Lithica Foundation’s quarries, we were soon walking through a series of
Tourism is serious business in Menorca, many people working hard to develop different incentives to attract visitors to the island. The
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Farmers & Co co-operative is an island-wide movement that promotes seasonal foods (honey, salt, olives, gin and even saffron) to bring tourists into the countryside to meet these producers in their homes and farms. One such producer, David Pons, showed me how they make their Son Piris artisan cheese on his family run farm. Started in the 1970s as a hobby by a local man, Binifadet is now one of the biggest producers of wine in Menorca, and its only producer of sparkling wines. My guide took me through rows of vines protected by beautiful dry stone walls, and into the restaurant for a lesson in tastings, and food and wine pairing.