‘Gender-bending’: The Latest Fashion Trend?

Sanne van der Steeg

R ecently, Dutch model Saskia de Brauw became one of the latest models to blur gender boundaries in the fashion industry, by fronting the Saint Laurent Men’s spring/summer 2013 collection. Many will find it hard to believe that the boy in the black and white campaign shots with the cropped hair, strong bone structure and make-up free complexion, is actually a 31 year old female supermodel, following the old adage that looks can indeed be very deceiving.

Although female male models are not quite the norm, Saskia de Brauw is not totally unique in her foray into the men’s fashion world. Casey Legler recently became the first woman to be signed to a male model agency, and is the only female model working exclusively as a male model. She was signed to the male division of Ford Models after being cast as a man in a friend’s shoot, with the resulting photos being seen by a casting agent at Ford. Her 1.87m frame, razorsharp cheekbones, and boyish physique enable the former French Olympic swimmer turned artist to look equally at home in both a men’s suit and elegant evening gown.

Moreover, it is not only females that have enjoyed success by appearing as the opposite sex, and there have also been cases of men modelling as women. In fact, it can be argued that the gender-bending phenomenon first began in 2010, with the arrival of Andrej Pejic on the modelling scene. With his long blonde hair and delicate feminine features, Andrej Pejic is a Bosnian Australian model best-known for his work as a female model, appearing in both the men’s and women’s shows for Jean-Paul Gaultier and being photographed as

UCstreetstyle

a female model in Marc Jacob’s campaign shots. He also caused quite the controversy when he was featured in a campaign advertising push-up bras for our very own Hema; having a male advertise the bra perhaps providing the ultimate evidence of the magical qualities of the push-up bra.

However, it seems that ‘gender-bending’, and having females pose as males and vice-versa is rather more than a moneymaking tactic and the latest fad in a trend infatuated industry. For the designers and the models involved it is a way of breaking artistic boundaries and expressing creativity, as Legler has said she views modelling as a male as an extension of her art. Perhaps Saskia, Casey and Andrej can also teach us that there are no strict rules when it comes to style, and can encourage us to be and wear whatever we feel like; even if it means occasionally dressing up as the other gender.

With Christmas around the corner, we asked fellow students to tell us 1) the one fashion item that is on their wishlist this year and 2)where they bought the outfit worn in the photo.

Tom Goodsir, exchange

1.This blazer from All Saints would be the perfect addition: beautifully cut from British tweed. It may be on my list but at that price it’s wishful thinking...

2.It’s a mishmash of cheap rubbish from H&M, a decent pair of Ted Baker jeans and the mac was last year’s Christmas present from my lovely girlfriend. Originally from Zara but she couldn’t stand the buttons, so stitched on new ones by hand. My shoes are from Sole Trader and, like most of my shoes, have definitely seen better days...The rest of what I wear is just bought randomly.

1.There are two items that are still on my wishlist for this year. Would like to have some high heeled brown ankleboots because they can pretty much be worn with everything. Also, I want to find a nice party dress for New Years, sort of tradition of mine to go dress shopping for NYE.

2.The black ankleboots are from last year, River Island, I could not go without them. I almost always wear heels, because it boosts your posture and important in my case, my height. The skirt is from Monki, love the peplum trend, very feminine. The denim shirt is from H&M and makes every outfit casual in an instant. The golden necklace is my moms’, always feel that it brings me good luck. The pendant is from Topshop, bought in Stockholm. My watch is Michael Kors, bought it after working for Tommy Hilfiger over summer.

Anna van Hoek, 4th year

1.I’ve been looking for sometime now for a good-fitting jeans jacket, one that is rather big but not too big. I also really need new boots because mine are falling apart. And I’ve secretly been wanting those classic black ankle-high leather boots with small heel that everyone wears in England.

2.Last fall break my London friend introduced me to a really nice vintage store where I managed to bargain a discount for these pants. While Primark, London, got me so excited that I lost my heritage group, but found the hat. The earrings are H&M, everyone needs feather earrings in my opinion. The shirt is a hand-me-down from my mom, gotta love her. The bag I still have from when I was 6.

Travel Column

Winter in Leiden

Anonymous

Winter is around the corner and Christmas with its kitschy decorations is drawing closer. Let’s warm up our itchy feet by walking around the city of Leiden.

Apparently, Leiden is home to the oldest university in the Netherlands (Descartes and Spinoza both studied here) and birthplace of Rembrandt. Those facts make a local’s chest swell with pride but are useless to a tourist. You can visit the site of Rembrandt’s birthplace but it does not have much historical value. The original building is long gone; the nearby statue of Rembrandt is not that impressive, and even the windmill in the background was erected only thirty years ago.

What’s great about Leiden is that the city centre is compact and the main sights are densely located. Similar to our Oudegracht, the pedestrian area follows a network of canals flanked by archaic Dutch buildings. If you come here on a Saturday, you can be part of a bustling crowd and walk along the colourful booths of the city centre market.

Close to the market and situated on a small hill stands a one thousand-year-old fortification, De Burcht. The inside of the circular structure has nothing to offer but trees. However, you can take the stairs up the rampart and enjoy a scenic view of Leiden from the promenade. Due to its elevated position and the 360° view, you have a splendid overview of most of Leiden – with the Hooglandse Kerk in the south being the most impressive sight. Even in late fall it’s worth a visit, since Leiden looks eerily enchanting in foggy weather.

By now you must be thirsty, and in serious need of some hot chocolate. At the junction of the canal in the very heart of Leiden, Annie’s is a great water-level restaurant. It has its own floating dock on which you can sit – arguably the best spot to have a drink in Leiden. Since it is quite chilly by now, head inside and enjoy the cosy cellar interior with its low ceiling and warm light. Should you go to Leiden when it is really cold, the restaurant might have put tables on the frozen canal. Apparently, this has happened in the past and although I don’t know whether it’s a safe or sane thing to do, it sounds pretty memorable.

At times, Leiden feels like a smaller version of Utrecht. Still, its antique centre, iconic buildings, intricate alleys and network of canals manage to emit their own worthwhile vibe.

Costs: 17€ for a full-fare return ticket

Travel time: ca. 45 min. one way

City centre market

Times: Wednesday & Saturday, 9:00am - 5:00pm

Annie’s - Lunch Diner Drinks

Location: Hoogstraat 1a, Leiden

Opening times: Mon-Sun, at least from 12PM